FR3122335A1 - Process of cosmetic treatment of braided hair with a composition comprising a thickening polymer, a menthol derivative and a particular nonionic surfactant - Google Patents

Abstract

Process for the cosmetic treatment of braided hair with a composition comprising a thickening polymer, a menthol derivative and a particular nonionic surfactant The present invention relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of braided hair, using a cosmetic composition comprising, in a hydro -alcoholic, a thickening polymer, a menthol derivative and a particular nonionic surfactant Figure for the abstract: NONE

Description

Process of cosmetic treatment of braided hair with a composition comprising a thickening polymer, a menthol derivative and a particular nonionic surfactant

The present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process for braided hair, using a composition comprising, in a hydro-alcoholic medium, a thickening polymer, a menthol derivative and a particular nonionic surfactant.

In some countries, where water is scarce and it is not possible to wash or shampoo the hair as often as desired. Compositions for cleaning and/or refreshing the scalp and the hair have been proposed to consumers, to avoid discomfort and the greasy appearance in the period between two shampoos.

In the case of braided hair, it is more complicated to clean and refresh the hair, without undoing the braided hair style.

An object of the present invention is to provide a process for the cosmetic treatment of braided hair, which, when applied, gives an immediate sensation of cleanliness and freshness, in particular, but not only, relief from itching, dead skin and discomfort; and will transmit a pleasant soothing sensation to the scalp, together with a surprising moisturizing effect on the hair, while preserving the style of braided hair.

Another object of the invention is to improve the softness of braided hair.

The applicant has now discovered that the use of a composition comprising, in a hydro-alcoholic medium, a thickening polymer, a menthol derivative and a particular nonionic surfactant, makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above.

Thus, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic treatment process for braided hair, comprising a step of applying to said braided hair a cosmetic composition comprising:

(i) one or more thickening polymers,

(ii) one or more compounds of formula (I)

in which R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by one or more OH groups and/or one or more NRR' groups with R and R ', identical or different, designating a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,

(iii) one or more oxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols,

(iv) one or more alcohols comprising a C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl chain, and

(v) water.

It has been observed that, amazingly, the composition used in the present process helps to improve the suppleness of braided hair and leads to relaxed tresses.

Advantageously, the composition used in the present invention flows easily to clean the scalp and hair; it eliminates odors and dirt from the scalp and braided hair, and leads after application to a sensation of freshness and cleanliness on the scalp and on the braided hair.

The composition does not undo the styling of braided hair; it imparts good styling properties, such as good manageability, to the hair.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention can be used as a cleaning agent.

It is preferably intended for application without rinsing on braided hair; and since the composition, after its application to the hair, does not need to be rinsed out, the process does not require the consumption of water and can therefore be considered a waterless process or a waterless hair routine braided. Preferably, there is no rinsing step after application of the composition, for example no rinsing step in the hour following application, preferably within 2 hours, more preferably within 12 hours, most preferably within 24 hours following application.

In particular, it is a process for improving the hydration and/or the softness of the braided hair, advantageously preserving the style of the braided hair; more particularly, it is a waterless process to improve the hydration and/or the softness of the braided hair, while preserving the style of the braided hair.

Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the example which follow.

In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "within a range of ... to ...".

In addition, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

According to the present invention, the term "braided hair" encompasses natural hair which has been braided.

It also encompasses styling achieved by the process of attaching synthetic fibers to natural hair. During this braiding process, synthetic fibers can be woven together with natural hair to form a two or three strand braid. Several strands of natural hair can be used to secure each braid. To secure a braid, the synthetic hair can be folded in half to create two sections of the braid, with the person's hair then forming the third part of the braid. Braids can also be double strand twists where the natural hair is wrapped around the synthetic fiber. Synthetic fibers used in protective hairstyles are preferably composed of acrylate polymers fused with dyes. Other protective styles can be described as braids, sewn weaves, glued weaves and glued braids. Protective hairstyles are usually worn for several weeks and the hair is usually washed less frequently.

Thickening polymers

The composition used according to the present invention comprises one or more thickening polymers.

The term “thickening polymer” designates, according to the present invention, a polymer capable, by its presence, of increasing the viscosity of the medium by at least 50 centipoise at 25° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s ⁻¹ . Preferably, the solution obtained by dissolving the thickening polymer at 1% by weight in water or in a water/alcohol mixture 50/50 by weight has a viscosity at 25° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 which is greater than 100 centipoise. These viscosities can be measured using in particular a viscometer or a rheometer with cone-plane geometry.

Preferably, the thickening polymer(s) is (are) chosen from thickening polymers comprising acrylic and/or methacrylic units.

By “polymer comprising acrylic and/or methacrylic units” is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, a polymer resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers including one or more monomers of structure:

- R ₁ denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

- R ₂ denoting a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, an NR ₃ R ₄ radical or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkoxy radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy radicals or by a quaternary ammonium radical,

- R ₃ and R ₄ denoting a hydrogen atom or an optionally oxyalkylenated C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl radical, the alkyl radical possibly comprising a sulphonic group.

As suitable thickening polymers, mention may be made of:

(a) (meth)acrylic associative thickeners,

(b) crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers and copolymers, preferably crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers, more preferably crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers;

(c) copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably crosslinked;

(d) nonionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising ethylenically unsaturated monomers of the ester and/or amide type,

(e) homopolymers of ammonium (meth)acrylate or copolymers of ammonium (meth)acrylate and (meth)acrylamide,

(f) homopolymers and copolymers of (meth)acrylamido alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) sulfonic acid,

(g) crosslinked homopolymers and copolymers of (meth)acryloyloxy (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyltri(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylammonium, and

(h) mixtures thereof.

(a) The thickening polymers can preferably be chosen from (meth)acrylic associative thickeners, preferably acrylic associative thickeners.

The term "associative thickener" is understood, according to the invention, as an amphiphilic thickener comprising both hydrophilic units and hydrophobic units, in particular comprising at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit .

Mention may be made, as associative acrylic thickeners which can be used in the composition according to the invention, of the associative acrylic polymers chosen from:

(i) nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit;

(ii) anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit;

(iii) cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one unit having a fatty chain;

(iv) amphiphilic amphoteric polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one unit having a fatty chain;

the fatty chains having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

(i) The (meth)acrylic associative polymers can preferably be chosen from nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit; the fatty chains having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

These nonionic amphiphilic polymers can preferably be chosen from:

- copolymers of C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain (for example oxyethylenated C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl acrylates), such as, for example , the oxyethylenated methyl methacrylate/stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208; and

- copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain (for example (C ₈ -C ₂₂ )alkyl (meth)acrylates), such as, for example, the copolymer of polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate.

(ii) The (meth)acrylic associative polymers can preferably be chosen from anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit; the fatty chains having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

These anionic amphiphilic polymers can be chosen from those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit of unsaturated carboxylic acid (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ester type. They are preferably chosen from those for which the hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of the following unit (III):

in which R ₃ denotes H or CH ₃ or C ₂ H ₅ , that is to say acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units, and for which the hydrophobic unit of alkyl ester type (in C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) of unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponds to the monomer of formula (IV) below:

in which, R ₄ denotes H or CH ₃ or C ₂ H ₅ (that is to say acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH ₃ (methacrylate units), R ₅ denotes a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl radical.

The (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are, for example, described and prepared according to patents US-3,915,921 and US-4,509,949.

The anionic amphiphilic polymers which can be used in the present invention can more particularly denote the polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising:

- acrylic acid and one or more esters of the following formula (V):

in which, R ₆ denotes H or CH ₃ , R ₇ denotes an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and a crosslinking agent, such as, for example, those consisting of 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0% to 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, or 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of polymerizable monomer of cross-linking, and

- essentially acrylic acid and lauryl methacrylate, such as the product formed from 66% by weight of acrylic acid and 34% by weight of lauryl methacrylate.

Said crosslinking agent is for example a monomer comprising a group with at least one other polymerizable group, the unsaturated bonds of which are unconjugated with respect to each other. Mention may in particular be made of poly(allyl ethers), such as, in particular, poly(allyl sucrose) and poly(allyl pentaerythritol).

Among said polymers above, preference is given, according to the present invention, to the products sold by Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2 and Carbopol 1382, and even more preferably Pemulen TR1, and to the product sold by S.E.P.C. under the name of Coatex SX.

Mention may also be made, as anionic amphiphilic polymers with fatty chains, of the copolymer of methacrylic acid, methyl acrylate and ethoxylated alcohol dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate sold under the name Viscophobe DB 1000 by Amerchol.

Mention may be made, as other anionic amphiphilic polymers with fatty chains, of those comprising at least one acrylic monomer containing sulphonic group(s), in free or partially or totally neutralized form, and comprising at least one hydrophobic portion.

The hydrophobic portion present in the polymers of the invention preferably comprises from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably still from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the sulphonic polymers according to the invention are partially or totally neutralized by an inorganic base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia) or an organic base, such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds.

The sulphonic amphiphilic polymers according to the present invention generally have a number-average molecular mass ranging from 1,000 to 20,000,000 g/mol, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 5,000,000 g/mol and even more preferably ranging from 100,000 to 1,500,000 g/mol.

The sulfonic amphiphilic polymers according to the invention may or may not be crosslinked. Crosslinked amphiphilic polymers are preferably chosen.

When they are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by radical polymerization. Mention may be made, for example, of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, diallyl ether of dipropylene glycol, diallyl ethers of polyglycol, divinyl ether of triethylene glycol, diallyl ether of hydroquinone, di(meth )ethylene glycol acrylate or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, ether trimethylolpropane diallyl, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of sugar alcohols, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and allyl esters of phosphoric acid derivatives and/or vinylphosphonic, or mixtures of these compounds.

More particularly, methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) will be used. The degree of crosslinking will generally vary from 0.01% molar to 10% molar and more particularly from 0.2% molar to 2% molar, relative to the polymer.

The acrylic monomers comprising one or more sulfonic group(s) is (are) chosen in particular from (meth)acrylamido (C 1 -C 22 )alkylsulfonic acids and N-alkyl (C ₁ -C ₂₂ )sulfonic acids and N-alkyl (C 1 -C 22 )sulfonic acids. C ₁ -C ₂₂ ) (meth)acrylamido (C ₁ -C ₂₂ ) alkylsulfonic acid, such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms.

More preferably, (meth)acrylamido alkyl (C ₁ -C ₂₂ )sulfonic acids will be used, such as, for example, acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido- 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2 -acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic, as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms.

More particularly, it is possible to use 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid ( ^AMPS® ), as well as its partially or totally neutralized forms.

The amphiphilic polymers according to the invention can in particular be chosen from random amphiphilic polymers of ^AMPS® modified by reaction with an n-monoalkyl (C ₆ -C ₂₂ ) amine or a di[n-alkyl (C ₆ -C ₂₂ )]amine, such as those described in patent application WO 00/31154; the polymers described in this patent application form part of the content of the present description. These polymers can also comprise other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, their β-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth) acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

The polymers of the invention can be chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS ^® and of at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic portion having from 8 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. carbon, more preferably still from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

These same copolymers may also comprise one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, their β-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

These copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A-750 899, in US patent 5,089,578 and in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima:

- “Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures”, Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336;

- "Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a non-ionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering", Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10, 3694-3704;

- "Solution properties of micelle networks formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: salt effects on rheological behavior", Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, No. 12, 5324-5332;

- “Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers”, Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 1999, 40(2), 220-221.

The ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomers of these specific copolymers are preferably chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (VI) below:

in which R ₈ and R ₁₀ , which are identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical (preferably methyl); Y denotes O or NH; R ₉ denotes a hydrophobic hydrocarbon radical comprising at least from 8 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; and x denotes a number of moles of alkylene oxide and varies from 0 to 100.

The R ₉ radical is preferably chosen from linear C ₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl radicals (for example n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl or n-dodecyl) or branched or cyclic (for example cyclododecane (C ₁₂ ) or adamantane (C ₁₀ )); C ₆ -C ₁₈ perfluoroalkyl radicals (for example the group of formula —(CH ₂ ) ₂ —(CF ₂ ) ₉ —CF ₃ ); the cholesteryl radical (C ₂₇ ) or a cholesterol ester residue, such as the cholesteryl oxyhexanoate group; or polycyclic aromatic groups, such as naphthalene or pyrene. Among these radicals, the linear alkyl radicals and more particularly the n-dodecyl radical are more particularly preferred.

According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the monomer of formula (VI) comprises at least one alkylene oxide unit (x≥1) and preferably a polyoxyalkylene chain. The polyoxyalkylene chain preferably consists of ethylene oxide units and/or propylene oxide units and more particularly still of ethylene oxide units. The number of oxyalkylene units generally varies from 3 to 100, more preferably from 3 to 50 and even more preferably from 7 to 25.

Mention may be made, among these polymers:

- copolymers, whether crosslinked or not, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS ^® units and from 40 to 85% by weight of (meth)acrylamide units of (C ₈ -C ₁₆ ) alkyl or of (C ₈ -C ₁₆ )alkyl (meth)acrylate units, with respect to the polymer, such as those described in application EP-A-750 899; and

- terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS ^® units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-alkyl units (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) acrylamide, such as those described in US Pat. No. 5,089,578.

Mention may also be made of copolymers of completely neutralized AMPS ^® and of dodecyl methacrylate, as well as non-crosslinked and cross-linked copolymers of AMPS ^® and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the aforementioned articles by Morishima.

Mention will be made more particularly of the copolymers consisting of units of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid ( ^AMPS® ) of formula (VII) below:

wherein, X ⁺ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation or the ammonium ion,

and units of formula (VIII) below:

in which, x denotes an integer varying from 3 to 100, preferably from 5 to 80 and more preferably from 7 to 25, R ₁₁ has the same meaning as that indicated above for R ₈ in formula (VI) and R ₁₂ denotes a linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ and more preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ alkyl.

Particularly preferred polymers are those for which x=25, R ₁₁ represents methyl and R ₁₂ represents n-dodecyl.

The polymers for which X ⁺ denotes sodium or ammonium are more particularly preferred.

(iii) The associative (meth)acrylic thickeners can preferably be chosen from cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one unit with a fatty chain; the fatty chains having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

The cationic amphiphilic polymers are preferably chosen from polyacrylates having amine side groups.

The polyacrylates having quaternized or non-quaternized amino side groups possess, for example, hydrophobic groups of the steareth-20 (polyoxyethylenated (20) stearyl alcohol) or PEG-20 (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl itaconate type.

Mention may be made, as examples of polyacrylates with amino side chains, of the polymers 8781-124B or 9492-103 or Structure Plus from National Starch.

(iv) The (meth)acrylic associative polymers can preferably be chosen from amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one unit with a fatty chain; the fatty chains having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

Mention may be made, among these amphiphilic amphoteric polymers, of copolymers of methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid/C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl methacrylate, the alkyl radical preferably being a stearyl radical.

(b) The thickening polymers can preferably be chosen from crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers and copolymers, preferably crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers, more preferably crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.

Among the crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers, mention may be made of those crosslinked by an allyl ether of an alcohol of the sugar series, such as, for example, the products sold under the names Carbopol, 910, 934, 940, 941, 934 P, 980, 981, 2984, 5984 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer from Lubrizol or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K from 3 VSA, Cosmedia ^SP® ; Mention may also be made of crosslinked sodium polyacrylate such as those comprising 90% dry matter and 10% water, Cosmedia SPL ^® or sodium polyacrylate in inverse emulsion comprising approximately 60% dry active matter, an oil (polydecene hydrogenated) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by Cognis, or partially neutralized crosslinked sodium polyacrylates in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold as the name of Luvigel ^® EM by BASF.

(c) The thickening polymers may preferably be chosen from copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl acrylate, preferably crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and alkyl acrylate (C ₁ -C ₆ ).

Among these copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl acrylate, mention may be made of crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate, such as product sold under the name Viscoatex 538C by Coatex, which is a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in aqueous dispersion comprising 38% of active ingredient, or the product sold under the name Aculyn 33 by Rohm & Haas, which is a crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in aqueous dispersion comprising 28% of active ingredient. Mention may more particularly be made of the crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in the form of a 30% aqueous dispersion manufactured and marketed under the name Carbopol Aqua SF-1 by Noveon.

(d) The thickening polymers can preferably be chosen from nonionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and/or amide type.

Among these nonionic homopolymers or copolymers comprising ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and/or amide type, mention may be made of the products sold under the names of: Cyanamer P250 from Cytec (polyacrylamide); PMMA MBX-8C from US Cosmetics (methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer); Acryloid B66 from Rohm & Haas (butyl methacrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymer); or Kobo's BPA 500 (polymethyl methacrylate).

(e) The thickening polymers can preferably be chosen from ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide.

Among the ammonium acrylate homopolymers, mention may be made of the product sold under the name of Microsap PAS 5193 by Hoechst.

Among the copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Bozepol C Nouveau or the product PAS 5193 sold by Hoechst (they are described and prepared in documents FR-2 416 723, US-2,798,053 and US-2,923,692).

(f) The thickening polymers can preferably be chosen from homopolymers and copolymers of (meth)acrylamido (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylsulfonic acid.

Among these homopolymers and copolymers of (meth)acrylamido (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylsulfonic acid, preference is given to the use of crosslinked polymers.

More particularly still, they are partially or totally neutralized.

These are water-soluble or water-swellable polymers.

Mention may be made, among these polymers:

- polyacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid,

- polyacrylamidoethanesulfonic acid,

- polyacrylamidopropanesulfonic acid,

- poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid),

- poly (2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid),

- poly (2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid).

Polymers of this type and in particular crosslinked and partially or totally neutralized poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acids) are known, described and prepared in patent application DE-196 25 810.

They are generally characterized in that they comprise, randomly distributed from 90% to 99.9% by weight of units of formula (IX) below:

in which, X ⁺ represents a cation or a mixture of cations, including H ⁺ , and from 0.01% to 10% by weight of at least one crosslinking unit having at least two olefinic double bonds; the proportions by weight being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.

X ⁺ represents a cation or a mixture of cations chosen in particular from a proton, an alkali metal cation, a cation equivalent to that of an alkaline-earth metal, or the ammonium ion.

Preferably, the crosslinked and neutralized poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) comprises from 98% to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (IX) and from 0.5% to 2% by weight of units of cross-linking.

The crosslinking units having at least two olefinic double bonds are chosen, for example, from dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, tetraallyloxyethane or d other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, tetraethylene glycol diacrylate, triallylamine, diallyl ether of trimethylolpropane, methylenebisacrylamide or divinylbenzene.

The crosslinking units comprising at least two olefinic double bonds are more particularly still chosen from those corresponding to the following general formula (X):

in which R ₁₃ denotes a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl and more particularly methyl (trimethylolpropane triacrylate).

The acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid ( ^AMPS® ) polymers according to the present invention generally have a number-average molecular mass ranging from 50,000 to 10,000,000 g/mol, and preferably ranging from 80,000 to 8,000,000 g/mol.

Among these AMPS ^® polymers, mention may preferably be made of:

- crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate, such as for example the product sold under the name Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked polymers of acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate of ammonium, such as for example the polymers described in patent EP 0 815 928 B1, or the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS by Clariant (INCI name: Ammonium Polydimethyltauramide);

- AMPS/acrylamide copolymers, in particular crosslinked acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate copolymers such as, for example, the product sold under the name SEPIGEL 305 (INCI name: Polyacrylamide/C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) or the product sold under the name Simulgel 600 by Sep-pic (INCI name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate/ Isohexadecane/ Polysorbate-80);

- AMPS ^® /vinylpyrrolidone copolymers or AMPS/vinylformamide copolymers, such as for example the copolymer used in the product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC ^® by Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer) neutralized with carbonate of sodium or potassium carbonate;

- AMPS ^® /sodium acrylate copolymers, such as the AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymer used in the product sold under the name Simulgel EG ^® by Seppic or under the name Sepinov EM (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer);

- AMPS ^® /hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers, such as the AMPS ^® /hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer used in the product sold under the name Simulgel NS ^® by Seppic (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acry -loyldimethyltaurate copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60) or the sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate/hydroxyethylacrylate copolymer sold under the name Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).

(g) The thickening polymers can preferably be chosen from crosslinked methacryloyloxy alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) trialkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) ammonium homopolymers and copolymers.

Among these crosslinked methacryloyloxy alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) trialkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) ammonium homopolymers and copolymers, mention may be made of crosslinked polymers of salts of methacryloyloxy alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) trialkyl (C 1 -C 4 ) C ₁ -C ₄ ) ammonium, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.

It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked copolymer of acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in a mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name ^Salcare® SC 92 by Ciba. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in a mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names ^Salcare® SC 95 and ^Salcare® SC 96 by Ciba.

Preferably, the thickening polymer(s) is (are) chosen from crosslinked homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, preferably crosslinked with an allyl ether of an alcohol of the series of sugars; and/or crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl acrylate; preferably crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate.

The total amount of thickening polymer(s) present in the composition according to the present invention is preferably in the range of 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.02 to 1% by weight. weight, and better still from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Compounds of formula (I)

The composition used according to the invention also comprises one or more compounds of formula (I)

(I)

in which, R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (OH) and/or one or more NRR' groups with R and R', identical or different, denoting a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Preferably, R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. More preferably, R ₁ denotes a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical, linear and saturated, substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and better still by one or two hydroxyl groups.

Advantageously, the compound(s) of formula (I) is (are) chosen from menthol, menthoxy propanediol, and a mixture thereof.

The total amount of compound(s) of formula (I) present in the composition according to the present invention is preferably in the range from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonionic surfactants

The composition used according to the invention comprises one or more oxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, preferably one or more oxyethylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. These compounds are nonionic surfactants.

The term “fatty alcohol”, according to the present invention, designates an alcohol comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms.

According to the present invention, an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol means a fatty alcohol comprising at least one oxyalkylene unit (alkylene oxide), and an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol means a fatty alcohol comprising at least one oxyethylenated unit (ethylene oxide).

According to the present invention, such a fatty alcohol comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the fatty alcohols according to the present invention comprise a linear and saturated alkyl chain.

The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

The number of oxyalkylene units, and in particular of oxyethylene units, is advantageously in the range from 1 to 50, preferably from 2 to 30, more preferably from 5 to 20, and even more preferably from 10 to 15.

The oxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohol(s) used in the present invention is (are) preferably chosen from oxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising a C ₁₀ - C ₁₈ and from 5 to 20 oxyethylene units, more preferably from oxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising a C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ alkyl chain and from 10 to 15 oxyethylene units.

More preferably, the oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol is oxyethylenated lauryl alcohol containing 12 ethylene oxide units (laureth-12).

The total amount of C ₈ -C ₃₀ oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols present in the composition according to the present invention is preferably in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight. , more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more additional nonionic surfactants other than the oxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols described above.

The nonionic surfactant(s) which may be used in the compositions is (are) described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by MR Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116 to 178.

Examples of additional nonionic surfactants which may be mentioned include the following nonionic surfactants:

- oxyalkylenated (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkyl phenols;

- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, glycerolated C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols, comprising one or two fatty chains;

- C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated;

- esters of C ₈ -C ₃₀ acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;

- esters of C ₈ -C ₃₀ acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated;

- sucrose fatty acid esters;

- C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl (poly)glucosides, C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkenyl (poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl (poly)glucoside esters;

- saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated vegetable oils;

- ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide condensates, among others, alone or as a mixture;

- N-alkyl (C ₈ -C ₃₀ ) glucamine and N-acyl (C ₈ -C ₃₀ ) methylglucamine derivatives;

- aldobionamides;

- amine oxides;

- and mixtures thereof.

The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

The number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide is preferably in the range of 1 to 250, more particularly 2 to 100 and more preferably 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol is in particular in the range from 1 to 50 and even better from 1 to 10.

Advantageously, the additional nonionic surfactants according to the invention do not contain oxypropylene units.

As examples of glycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ alcohols are preferably used, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol and preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol.

Examples of saturated or oxyethylenated unsaturated vegetable oils which may be mentioned include polyoxyethylene glycol hydrogenated vegetable oil derivatives. Preferably, the number of polyoxyethylene glycol groups is in the range of 1 to 250, more preferably 2 to 100, more preferably 1 to 60, and even more preferably 50 to 60.

The hydrogenated vegetable oil component may or may not contain linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₈ -C ₁₈ carbon chains, substituted with one or more ethylene glycol groups.

The additional nonionic surfactant(s), different from the nonionic surfactant(s) chosen from C ₈ -C ₃₀ oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols , is (are) advantageously chosen from:

- esters of C ₈ -C ₃₀ acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated,

- saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, and

- mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the additional nonionic surfactant(s), other than oxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, is (are) chosen from

- oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated, more preferably vegetable oils 50 to 60 oxyethylenated (that is to say 50 to 60 EO units) hydrogenated, better still castor oils 50 to 60 oxyethylenated hydrogenated, and even more preferably, said additional nonionic surfactant is PEG 60 hydrogenated castor oil;

- esters of C ₈ -C ₃₀ acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated with 1 to 18 EO; more preferably, chosen from saturated or unsaturated C ₈ -C ₃₀ linear acids and sorbitol acids, preferably oxyethylenated with 2 to 10 EO; and better still from C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear, and sorbitol, oxyethylenated with 2 to 10 EO. An example that can be mentioned is sorbitan monolaurate with 4 EO units (Polysorbate 21);

- and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, the composition used according to the invention comprises:

- one or more oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated, more preferably vegetable oils with 50 to 60 oxyethylenated (that is to say with 50 to 60 EO units) hydrogenated, better still oxyethylenated castor oils 50 to 60 hydrogenated, and even more preferably said additional nonionic surfactant is PEG 60 hydrogenated castor oil; and

- one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C ₈ -C ₃₀ acid esters of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated with 1 to 18 EO; more preferably, chosen from saturated or unsaturated C ₈ -C ₃₀ linear acids and sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated with 2 to 10 EO; and better still from C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear, and sorbitol, oxyethylenated with 2 to 10 EO. An example that can be mentioned is sorbitan monolaurate with 4 EO units (Poly-sorbate 21).

Much more preferably, the composition used according to the invention comprises PEG 60 hydrogenated castor oils and sorbitan monolaurate with 4 EO units (polysorbate 21).

The total amount of additional nonionic surfactant(s) other than C ₈ -C ₃₀ oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol(s), when present, is (are) preferably in the range of 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 4% by weight, and more preferably 0.2 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The total quantity of additional nonionic surfactant(s) chosen from oxyethylenated, saturated or unsaturated vegetable oils, when it (these) is (are) present, is preferably in the range of 0.05 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably 0.15 to 0.35% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition .

The total amount of additional nonionic surfactant(s) chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ acid esters and sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated with 1 to 18 EO, when present, is (are) preferably in the range of 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2, and more preferably 0 2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, when additional nonionic surfactants are present in the composition of the invention, their total amount is less than the total amount of oxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols.

In other words, the weight ratio between the total amount of additional nonionic surfactant(s) and the total amount of nonionic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty alcohols in C ₈ -C ₃₀ oxyalkylenated is preferably less than 1.

Water-soluble organic solvent

The composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more alcohols comprising a C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl chain.

According to the present invention, the alcohols comprising a C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl chain are water-soluble solvents, and have a solubility greater than or equal to 5% by weight in water at 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure.

The alcohols comprising a C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl chain preferably comprise from 1 to 8, preferably from 1 to 3, OH groups and from 2 to 8, preferably from 2 to 6, carbon atoms.

The alcohols comprising a C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl chain are preferably chosen from linear or branched monoalcohols or diols, preferably saturated, comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols, such as phenylethyl alcohol; polyols comprising more than two hydroxyl functions, such as glycerol; polyol ethers, such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers, such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol; as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, in particular C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl ethers, such as, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol, alone or as a mixture.

Preferably, said alcohols comprising a C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl chain are chosen from monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, diols comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol.

The total amount of alcohol(s) comprising a C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl chain present in the composition according to the invention is preferably in the range from 10 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 15 to 40% by weight. weight, more preferably from 18 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the weight ratio between the total amount of compound(s) of formula (I) and the total amount of alcohols comprising a C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl chain is in the range from 0.001 to 1, more preferably from 0.005 to 0.5, and more preferably 0.01 to 0.1.

Preferably, the weight ratio between the total amount of thickening polymer(s) and the total amount of alcohols comprising a C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl chain is in the range from 0.001 to 1, more preferably from 0.005 to 0.5, more preferably 0.01 to 0.1.

Water

The composition used according to the present invention also comprises water, which preferably represents from 40 to 95% by weight, more preferably from 50 to 90% by weight, better still from 55 to 85% by weight, and even more preferably from 65 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives

The cosmetic composition used according to the present invention may also comprise one or more additives other than the compounds of the invention.

By way of additives that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of fatty substances; cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants or mixtures thereof; anti-dandruff agents; antiseborrhoeic agents; agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth; vitamins and provitamins including panthenol; sunscreens; mineral or organic pigments; sequestrants; plasticizers; solubilizers; acidifying agents; opacifiers or pearlescent agents; antioxidants; hydroxy acids; fragrances and preservatives.

It goes without saying that a person skilled in the art will take care to select this (these) optional additional compound(s) so that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or are not materially adversely affected by the proposed addition(s).

The aforementioned additives can generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0.001 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition may comprise one or more anionic polymers, different from the thickening polymers described above, preferably chosen from hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof.

Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula:

In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid" covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula:

It is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.

The term "hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof" also includes, in the context of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymer unit described above, linked to the chain by glycosidic bonds in β (1,4 ) and β(1,3) alternating, preferably having a molecular weight (Mw) which may range from 380 to 13,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight largely depends on the source from which the hyaluronic acid is obtained and/or the methods of preparation.

The term "hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof" also includes, in the context of the present invention, the salts of hyaluronic acid. As salts, mention may be made of alkali metal salts such as sodium and potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition used according to the invention comprises hyaluronic acid and/or a salt thereof, preferably hyaluronic acid and/or an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salt thereof ; and more preferably sodium hyaluronate.

The total amount of the anionic polymer(s), different from the thickening polymer(s), in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, preferably from 0.002 to 0. 05% by weight, and more preferably from 0.005 to 0.02% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The total amount of hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof in the composition according to the invention may be from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, preferably from 0.002 to 0.05% by weight, and more preferably from 0.005 to 0.02% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is supplied in the form of a thickened hydroalcoholic lotion or composition, and more preferably in the form of a gelled hydroalcoholic lotion or composition.

The following example illustrates the invention without however being limiting in nature.

In the examples which follow and unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are given in mass percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition (% MA=% of active material).

Example 1

The following composition according to the invention was prepared:

Composition (% MA) PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.25 Carbomer 0.3 Polysorbate-21 0.5 L-menthol 0.3 Laureth-12 1 Sodium hyaluronate 0.01 Ethanol 25 Water Qs 100%

A study was carried out on 18 women between the ages of 20 and 40 who had been wearing braids for at least 2 weeks. The composition was applied to the scalp and braided hair at least 3 times over a period of 7 days.

The study shows that the product provided immediate and lasting relief from itching, dandruff and discomfort; a pleasant and soothing sensation to the scalp. It also shows that the braided hair and the scalp are hydrated and nourished. The composition makes the texture of braided hair soft

Claims (9)

Process for the cosmetic treatment of braided hair, comprising a step of applying to said braided hair a cosmetic composition comprising:
(i) one or more thickening polymers,
(ii) one or more compounds of formula (I)

in which R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by one or more OH groups and/or one or more NRR' groups with R and R ', identical or different, denoting a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;
(iii) one or more oxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols,
(iv) one or more alcohols comprising a C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl chain, and
(v) water. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the thickening polymer(s) is (are) chosen from thickening polymers comprising acrylic and/or methacrylic units, and preferably from:
(a) (meth)acrylic associative thickeners,
(b) crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers and copolymers, preferably crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers, more preferably crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers;
(c) copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and (meth)acrylate (C ₁ -C ₆ ), preferably crosslinked;
(d) nonionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising ethylenically unsaturated monomers of the ester and/or amide type,
(e) homopolymers of ammonium (meth)acrylate or copolymers of ammonium (meth)acrylate and (meth)acrylamide,
(f) homopolymers and copolymers of (meth)acrylamido alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) sulfonic acid,
(g) cross-linked homopolymers and copolymers of (meth)acryloyloxy (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyltrialkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) ammonium, and
(h) mixtures thereof. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the thickening polymer(s) is (are) chosen from:
- crosslinked homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, preferably crosslinked with an allyl ether of an alcohol of the sugar series; and or
- crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl acrylate; preferably crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which in the formula (I), R ₁ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted by one or several hydroxyl groups; preferably, R ₁ represents a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical, linear and saturated, substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and better still by one or two hydroxyl groups. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the compound of formula (I) is selected from menthol, menthoxy propanediol, and a mixture thereof. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols are chosen from oxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising a C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ alkyl chain and from 5 to 20 oxyethylene units, preferably from oxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising a C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ alkyl chain and from 10 to 15 oxyethylene units; more preferably from oxyethylenated lauryl alcohol containing 12 ethylene oxide units (laureth-12). Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition comprises one or more additional nonionic surfactants other than oxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, chosen from:
- oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated, more preferably oxyethylenated vegetable oils 50 to 60 (that is to say 50 to 60 EO units) hydrogenated, better still oxyethylenated castor oils 50 to 60 hydrogenated, and more preferably , said additional nonionic surfactant is PEG 60 hydrogenated castor oil; preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, and even better from 0.15 to 0.35% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition.
- C ₈ -C ₃₀ acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated with 1 to 18 EO; more preferably, chosen from saturated or unsaturated C ₈ -C ₃₀ linear acids and sorbitol acids, preferably oxyethylenated with 2 to 10 EO; and better still from saturated or unsaturated, linear C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ and sorbitol acids, oxyethylenated with 2 to 10 EO; preferably sorbitan monolaurate with 4 EO units (Polysorbate 21); preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2, and more preferably from 0.2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;
- and mixtures thereof. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the total amount of water is in the range of 40 to 95 wt%, more preferably 50 to 90 wt%, more preferably 55 to 85 wt%. , and even more preferably between 65 and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition comprises one or more anionic polymers, preferably chosen from hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof; more preferably hyaluronic acid and/or a salt thereof, preferably hyaluronic acid and/or an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salt thereof; and more preferably sodium hyaluronate.