FR3117348A1 - Care composition of keratinous material - Google Patents

Abstract

Care composition of keratinous material The present invention relates to a thickening composition for the care of keratinous material, in particular the scalp, comprising the following components: A) polyethylene particles having a melting point below 95°C; and B) at least two thickeners, comprising the components B1) a thickener having a melting point near or below human body temperature, and B2) a thickener having a melting point suitably above body temperature human. Figure for abstract: None

Description

Care composition of keratinous material

The present invention relates to a care composition for keratinous material, in particular the scalp. The present invention also relates to a use of at least two specific thickeners.

context

The skin forms a physical barrier between the body and its environment. It is made up of two tissues: the epidermis and the dermis.

The dermis provides the epidermis with a solid support. It is also its nourishing element. It is mainly made up of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix, itself composed mainly of collagen, elastin and a substance called ground substance, these components being synthesized by the fibroblast. The epidermis is a desquamating pluristratified epithelium with an average thickness of 100 μm and is classically divided into a basal layer of keratinocytes which constitutes the germinal layer of the epidermis, a spiny layer consisting of several layers of polyhedral cells positioned on the cells germinal cells, a granular layer made up of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, keratohyalin granules, and finally an upper layer called the stratum corneum (or stratum corneum), made up of keratinocytes at the terminal stage of their differentiation, called corneocytes.

In order to change the look of hair, there are many products developed to treat hair when dyeing, bleaching, waving and/or straightening.

During the application of hair dyeing, bleaching, waving and/or straightening products, certain ingredients come into contact with the scalp and pass through the stratum corneum to reach the living epidermis, which can cause discomfort and scalp irritation.

There is therefore a need to formulate a cosmetic composition for caring for keratinous material, in particular the scalp, which can prevent water-soluble dyes and strongly alkaline components from passing through the stratum corneum to the living epidermis.

An object of the present invention is to provide a care composition for keratinous material, in particular the scalp, which can prevent water-soluble dyes and strongly alkaline components from passing through the stratum corneum to the living epidermis. .

Another object of the present invention is to provide a care composition for keratinous material, in particular the scalp, which will not have a negative impact on the dyeing and/or bleaching effect of a dyeing product. and/or hair discoloration.

Consequently, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a thickening composition for the care of keratinous material, in particular the scalp, comprising the following components:

A) polyethylene particles having a melting point below 95°C; and

B) at least two thickeners, comprising the components B1) a thickener having a melting point near or below human body temperature, and B2) a thickener having a melting point suitably above human body temperature .

The composition of the present invention may be in the form of an oily gel or an oily balm.

Another object of the present invention is to allow the use of the thickening composition to form an insulation on the human body, in particular on the keratinous material, for example on the scalp.

According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous material, in particular the scalp, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the skin, in particular to the scalp .

The composition according to the present invention can prevent water-soluble dyes and strong alkaline components from passing through the stratum corneum to the living epidermis and prevent the scalp from being stained by the dyes. At the same time, the composition according to the present invention has no negative impact on the dyeing effect of a dyeing composition or on the bleaching effect of a bleaching product on the hair.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples which follow.

Description of the drawings

The shows the result of example 3.

The shows the result of Example 4.

Embodiments of the Invention

Throughout the description, including in the claims, the expression "comprising a" must be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise stated. In addition, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

Throughout the description, including the claims, an embodiment defined by "comprising" or the like is to be understood to encompass a preferable embodiment defined by "consisting substantially of" and a preferable embodiment defined by "consisting of" .

Preferably, the "keratinous material" according to the present invention is the skin. By "skin" is meant all the skin of the body. More preferably, the keratinous material is the scalp.

In the application, unless specifically stated otherwise, the contents, parts and percentages are expressed on a weight basis.

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. Where the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs, the definition described herein shall apply.

According to the first aspect, the present invention provides a thickening composition for the care of keratinous material, in particular the scalp, comprising the following components:

A) polyethylene particles having a melting point below 95°C; and.

B) at least two thickeners, comprising the components B1) a thickener having a melting point near or below human body temperature, and B2) a thickener having a melting point suitably above human body temperature .

Component A), polyethylene particles

The thickening composition according to the present invention comprises polyethylene particles having a melting point below 95°C as component A).

It is known that polyethylene can be classified into various categories in view of a plurality of criteria, such as density, molecular weight, specific modification and the like. Among other things, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that in the context of the present invention, it is highly preferable for the polyethylene to have a specific melting point below 95°C, preferably below 90°C, or preferably below at 85°C. In addition, in the context of the present invention, the polyethylene can be particles, which are therefore solid at room temperature, that is to say having a melting point equal to or greater than room temperature, for example ≥25 °C. Without being limited by any known theory, it is believed that such polyethylene particles are very advantageous for the thickening, insulation and stability of the composition obtained. As commercial products, polyethylene can usually be supplied as actually a mixture of polyethylenes having a molecular weight distribution. Thus, commercially available polyethylene may show a range of melting points, instead of a single melting point. For example, a useful polyethylene representative is PERFORMALENET™ 500-L commercially available from New Phase Technologies, having a melting point range of 83-92°C.

According to one embodiment, the polyethylene particles according to the invention may have a number-average size less than or equal to 50 μm, in particular less than or equal to 30 μm and more particularly less than or equal to 20 μm. However, polyethylene particles having another number average size can also be used.

The term "number average size" refers to the dimension given by the statistical distribution of particle size to half the population, called D50. The polyethylene particles can be in various shapes and in particular can be substantially spherical.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “polyethylene particles” covers any particle resulting from the homopolymerization and/or the copolymerization of ethylene monomer. These particles may, where appropriate, include in their composition compounds generally in trace amounts, resulting from their preparation process.

According to a particular variant of the invention, the polyethylene particles can be particles comprising at least one ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer, and can for example consist of one or more ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer(s), for example the particles sold under the trade name Flobeads® by the company SUMITOMO.

The polyethylene particles may, where appropriate, be surface-coated, at least partially, with colorants, in particular pigments and/or dyes.

Advantageously, the polyethylene particles can be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, or preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the thickening composition.

Component B), thickener

For cosmetic products, it is generally preferable that the product can be distributed evenly on the skin, the scalp or the hair. Accordingly, thickeners are generally used. In the context of the present invention, a semi-crystalline or crystalline lipophilic thickener can preferably be used.

E semi-crystalline or crystalline lipophilic thickener

The thickening composition according to the present invention may comprise a semi-crystalline or crystalline lipophilic thickener.

The term "lipophilic" here designates a substance which is soluble in one or more oils at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil or oils at room temperature (25°C) and at pressure atmospheric (10 ⁵ Pa).

The semi-crystalline or crystalline lipophilic thickener used in the present invention can be chosen from semi-crystalline or crystalline polymers.

The semi-crystalline or crystalline polymer is preferably a semi-crystalline polymer. By semi-crystalline polymer is meant polymers comprising a crystallizable portion, a pendant and/or terminal crystallizable chain or a crystallizable block in the backbone and/or at the ends, and an amorphous portion in the backbone, and having a change temperature first-order reversible phase, in particular fusion (solid-liquid transition). When the crystallizable portion is in the form of a crystallizable block of the backbone of the polymer, the amorphous portion of the polymer is in the form of an amorphous block; the semi-crystalline polymer is, in this case, a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type, comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block. The term “block” generally designates at least five identical repeating units. The crystallizable block or blocks are then of a different chemical nature from the amorphous block or blocks.

The semi-crystalline polymer according to the present invention has a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C (in particular ranging from 30°C to 80°C), preferably ranging from 30°C to 60°C. This melting point is a first order state change temperature.

This melting point can be measured by any known method and in particular using a Differential Scanning Calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments.

Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) to which the present invention applies have a number-average molecular mass greater than or equal to 1000.

Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) of the thickening composition of the invention have a number-average molecular mass ranging from 2,000 to 800,000, preferably from 3,000 to 500,000, better still from 4,000 to 150,000 and in particular less than 100,000 and better still from 4,000 to 99,000. Preferably, they have a number-average molecular mass greater than 5,600, for example ranging from 5,700 to 99,000.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the expression “crystallizable chain or block” designates a chain or a block which, if it were obtained alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state in a reversible manner, depending on whether the temperature is above or below the melting point. Within the meaning of the present invention, a "chain" is a group of atoms, which are pendent or lateral with respect to the backbone of the polymer. A "block" is a group of atoms belonging to the skeleton, this group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. Advantageously, the “pendent crystallizable chain” can be a chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the crystallizable block or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%. The semi-crystalline polymers of the present invention containing crystallizable blocks are block or multi-block polymers. They can be obtained by polymerization of a monomer containing reactive double bonds (or ethylenic bonds) or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the present invention are polymers containing crystallizable side chains, these side chains are advantageously in random or random form.

Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers which can be used in the thickening composition according to the present invention are of synthetic origin. Moreover, they do not include a polysaccharide backbone. In general, the crystallizable units (chains or blocks) of the semi-crystalline polymers according to the invention derive their origin from the monomer(s) containing the crystallizable block(s) or chains, used for the manufacture of the semi-crystalline polymers.

According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer can be chosen from block copolymers comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block, and homopolymers and copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain per repeated unit, and mixtures thereof. .

The semi-crystalline polymers which can be used in the invention are in particular:

- polyolefin block copolymers with controlled crystallization, in particular those whose monomers are described in document EP-A-0 951 897,

- polycondensates, in particular of the aliphatic or aromatic polyester type or of the aliphatic/aromatic copolyester type,

- homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain and homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable block in the backbone, for example those described in document US-A-5,156,911,

- homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular containing one or more fluoro groups, as described in document WO-A-01/19333,

- and mixtures thereof.

In the last two cases, the crystallizable side chain(s) or the block(s) are hydrophobic.

(i) Semi-crystalline polymers containing crystallizable side chains

Mention may be made in particular of those defined in documents US Pat. No. 5,156,911 and WO-A-01/19333. These are homopolymers or copolymers comprising from 50% to 100% by weight of units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers carrying a crystallizable hydrophobic side chain.

These homopolymers or copolymers are of any kind, provided that they meet the conditions mentioned above.

They can result:

- polymerization, in particular radical polymerization, of one or more monomers comprising one or more double bond(s) reactive(s) or ethylenic(s) vis-à-vis a polymerization, namely a vinyl, (meth)acrylic or allylic group,

- polycondensation of one or more monomers bearing coreactive groups (carboxylic acid, sulphonic acid, alcohol, amine or isocyanate), such as, for example, polyesters, polyurethanes, polyethers, polyureas or polyamides.

In general, these polymers are chosen in particular from homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer comprising one or more crystallizable chains which can be represented by formula (I):

(I)

with M representing a backbone atom of the polymer, S representing a spacer and C representing a crystallizable group.

The "-SC" crystallizable chains can be aliphatic or aromatic, and optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated. “S” represents in particular the (CH ₂ )n or (CH ₂ CH ₂ O)n or (CH ₂ O) group, which may be linear or branched or cyclic, with n being an integer ranging from 0 to 22. Preferably, "S" is a linear group. Preferably, "S" and "C" are different.

When the “—S—C” crystallizable chains are aliphatic hydrocarbon chains, they include hydrocarbon alkyl chains containing at least 11 carbon atoms and at most 40 carbon atoms and better still at most 24 carbon atoms. These are in particular aliphatic chains or alkyl chains containing at least 12 carbon atoms, and preferably C14-C24 alkyl chains. When it comes to fluoroalkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, they contain at least six fluorinated carbon atoms and in particular at least 11 carbon atoms, of which at least six carbon atoms are fluorinated.

As examples of semi-crystalline polymers or copolymers bearing one or more crystallizable chains, mention may be made of those resulting from the polymerization of one or more of the following monomers: saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates in which the alkyl group is C14-C24, perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates with a C11-C15 perfluoroalkyl group, N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides whose alkyl group is C14-C24 with or without fluorine atom, vinyl esters containing alkyl chains or perfluoro(alkyl) whose alkyl group is C14-C24 (with at least 6 fluorine atoms per perfluoroalkyl chain), vinyl ethers containing alkyl or perfluoro(alkyl) chains whose alkyl group is C14-C24 and at least 6 fluorine atoms per perfluoroalkyl chain, C14 to C24 alpha-olefins such as, for example, octadecene, para-alkylstyrenes in which the alkyl group contains from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

When the polymers result from polycondensation, the crystallizable hydrocarbon and/or fluorinated chains as defined above are carried by a monomer which can be a diacid, a diol, a diamine or a diisocyanate.

When the polymers which are the subject of the present invention are copolymers, they also contain from 0 to 50% of Y or Z groups resulting from the copolymerization:

α) of Y which is a polar or non-polar monomer or a mixture of both:

When Y is a polar monomer, it is either a monomer carrying polyoxyalkylenated (in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene) groups, a hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylate, for example hydroxyethyl acrylate, (meth)acrylamide, a N-alkyl(meth)acrylamide, an N,N-dialkyl(meth)acrylamide such as, for example, N,N-diisopropylacrylamide or N-vinylpyrrolidone (NVP), N-vinylcaprolactam, monomer carrying at least one carboxylic acid group, for example (meth)acrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid or fumaric acid, or bearing a carboxylic acid anhydride group, for example maleic anhydride, and mixtures thereof.

When Y is an apolar monomer, it may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl (meth)acrylate ester, a vinyl ester, an alkyl vinyl ether, an α- olefin, styrene or styrene substituted by a C1 to C10 alkyl group, for example α-methylstyrene.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “alkyl” denotes a saturated group in particular C8 to C30, unless otherwise stated, and better still C10 to C30.

β) of Z which is a polar monomer or a mixture of polar monomers. In this case, Z has the same definition as the "polar Y" defined above.

Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers containing a crystallizable side chain are homopolymers of C8-C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably C10-C30, or of C8-C30 alkyl (meth)acrylamide, of preferably C10-C30, copolymers of these monomers and of a hydrophilic monomer preferably of a different nature from (meth)acrylic acid, for example N-vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof .

(ii) Polymers bearing in the skeleton at least one crystallizable block

These polymers are in particular block copolymers consisting of at least two blocks of different chemical nature, one of which is crystallizable.

- The block polymers defined in US-A-5,156,911 can be used;

- Copolymers with olefin or cycloolefin blocks comprising a crystallizable chain, for example those resulting from the block polymerization of:

- cyclobutene, cyclohexene, cyclooctene, norbornene (i.e. bicyclo(2,2,1)-2-heptene), 5-methylnorbornene, 5-ethylnorbornene, 5,6-dimethylnorbornene, 5,5,6-trimethylnorbornene, 5-ethylidenenorbornene, 5-phenylnorbornene, 5-benzylnorbornene, 5-vinylnorbornene, 1,4,5,8-dimethano-1,2,3,4,4a,5,8a-tetrahydronaphthalene, dicyclopentadiene, or mixtures thereof,

- with ethylene, propylene, 1-butene, 3-methyl-1-butene, 1-hexene, 4-methyl-1-pentene, 1-octene, 1-decene or 1-eocosene, or mixtures thereof.

- and in particular copoly(ethylene/norbornene) blocks and block terpolymers (ethylene/propylene/ethylidene-norbornene). One can also use those which result from the block copolymerization of at least two -olefins in C2-C16, even better in C2-C12 and still better still in C4-C12 such as those mentioned above and in particular the bipolymers with blocks of ethylene and 1-octene.

- The copolymers can be copolymers containing at least one crystallizable block, the residue of the copolymer being amorphous (at room temperature). These copolymers can also contain two crystallizable blocks of different chemical nature. The preferred copolymers are those which contain simultaneously at ambient temperature a crystallizable block and an amorphous block which are both hydrophobic and lipophilic, distributed sequentially; mention may be made, for example, of the polymers containing one of the crystallizable blocks and one of the amorphous blocks below:

- Block which is crystallizable by nature: a) of the polyester type, for example poly(alkylene terephthalate), b) of the polyolefin type, for example polyethylenes or polypropylenes.

- Amorphous and lipophilic block, for example amorphous polyolefins or copoly(olefins) such as poly(isobutylene), hydrogenated polybutadiene or hydrogenated poly(isoprene).

Examples of such copolymers containing a crystallizable block and a separate amorphous block include:

α) poly(-caprolactone)-b-poly(butadiene) block copolymers, preferably used hydrogenated, such as those described in the article "Melting behavior of poly(-caprolactone)-block-polybutadiene copolymers" by S. Nojima, Macromolecules, 32, 3727-3734 (1999),

β) poly(butylene terephthalate)-b-poly(isoprene) block or hydrogenated multi-block copolymers cited in the article “Study of morphological and mechanical properties of PP/PBT” by B. Boutevin et al, Polymer Bulletin, 34, 117-123 (1995),

γ) the poly(ethylene)-b-copoly(ethylene/propylene) block copolymers cited in the articles "Morphology of semicrystalline block copolymers of ethylene-(ethylene-alt-propylene)" by P. Rangarajan et al, Macromolecules, 26 , 4640-4645 (1993) and “Polymer aggregates with crystalline cores: the system poly(ethylene)poly(ethylene-propylene)” by P. Richter et al., Macromolecules, 30, 1053-1068 (1997).

δ) the poly(ethylene)-b-poly(ethylethylene) block copolymers mentioned in the general article “Crystallization in block copolymers” by I.W. Hamley, Advances in Polymer Science, vol. 148, 113-137 (1999).

The semi-crystalline polymers of the thickening composition of the present invention may or may not be partially crosslinked, provided that the degree of crosslinking does not interfere with their dissolution or dispersion in the liquid fatty phase optionally present in the thickening composition by heating. above their melting point. It can then be a question of a chemical crosslinking, by reaction with a multifunctional monomer during the polymerization. It can also be a physical crosslinking, which can then be due either to the establishment of hydrogen or dipolar type bonds between groups carried by the polymer, for example dipolar interactions between carboxylate ionomers, these interactions being in small amount and carried by the backbone of the polymer; or to a phase separation between the crystallizable blocks and the amorphous blocks, carried by the polymer.

Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the thickening composition according to the present invention are not crosslinked.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer comprising a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated C14 to C24 alkyl (meth)acrylates, ( C11 to C15 perfluoroalkyl meth)acrylates, C14 to C24 N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides with or without fluorine atoms, vinyl esters containing C14 to C24 alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, vinyl ethers containing C14 to C24 alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, C14 to C24 alpha-olefins, para-alkylstyrenes with an alkyl group containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms, with at least one C1 to C10 monocarboxylic acid ester or amide optionally fluorinated, which can be represented by the following formula (II):

(II)

in which R ₁ is H or CH ₃ , R represents an optionally fluorinated C1-C10 alkyl group and X represents O, NH or NR ₂ in which R ₂ represents an optionally fluorinated C1-C10 alkyl group.

According to a more particular embodiment of the present invention, the polymer is derived from a crystallizable chain monomer chosen from saturated C14 to C22 alkyl (meth)acrylates and even more particularly poly(stearyl acrylate) or poly(behenyl acrylate).

As specific examples of structuring semi-crystalline polymers which can be used in the thickening composition according to the present invention, mention may be made of the polymers with the INCI name “Poly C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate” (poly(alkyl acrylate in C10-C30)), for example the Intelimer products from Air Products, for example the Intelimer IPA 13-1 product which is a poly(stearyl acrylate) with a melting point of 48° C., or the Intelimer product  IPA 13-6 which is a behenyl polymer.

The semi-crystalline polymers can in particular be:

those described in Examples 3, 4, 5, 7, 9 and 13 of US-A-5,156,911 containing a -COOH group, resulting from the copolymerization of acrylic acid and C5 alkyl (meth)acrylate at C16 and more particularly the copolymerization:

- acrylic acid, hexadecyl acrylate and isodecyl acrylate in a weight ratio of 1/16/3,

- acrylic acid and pentadecyl acrylate in a weight ratio of 1/19,

- acrylic acid, hexadecyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate in a weight ratio of 2.5/76.5/20,

- acrylic acid, hexadecyl acrylate and methyl acrylate in a weight ratio of 5/85/10,

- acrylic acid and octadecyl methacrylate in a weight ratio of 2.5/97.5,

- hexadecyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol methacrylate monomethyl ether containing 8 ethylene glycol units, and acrylic acid in a weight ratio of 8.5/1/0.5.

It is also possible to use National Starch's "O" structure, as described in US-A-5,736,125, with a melting point of 44°C, as well as semi-crystalline crystallizable pendant chain polymers. comprising fluoro groups, as described in Examples 1, 4, 6, 7 and 8 of document WO-A-01/19333.

It is also possible to use the semi-crystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of stearyl acrylate and acrylic acid or NVP as described in document US-A-5 519 063 or EP-A-550 745, with melting points of 40°C and 38°C, respectively.

It is also possible to use the semi-crystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of behenyl acrylate and acrylic acid or NVP, as described in documents US-A-5,519,063 and EP-A-550,745, with melting points of 60°C and 58°C, respectively.

Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers do not include carboxylic groups.

Finally, the semi-crystalline polymers according to the present invention can also be chosen from waxy polymers obtained by metallocene catalysis, such as those described in patent application US 2007/0 031 361.

These polymers are homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene and/or propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis, i.e. by polymerization at low pressure and in the presence of a metallocene catalyst.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis described in this document is less than or equal to 25,000 g/mol and varies, for example, from 2,000 to 22,000 g/mol and better still from 4,000 to 20 000 g/mol.

The number-average molecular mass (Mn) of the waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis described in this document is preferably less than or equal to 15,000 g/mol and varies, for example, from 1,000 to 12,000 g/mol and better still from 2,000 at 10,000 g/mol.

The polydispersity index I of the polymer is equal to the ratio of the weight-average molecular mass Mw to the number-average molecular mass Mn. Preferably, the polydispersity index of the waxy polymers is between 1.5 and 10, more preferably between 1.5 and 5, even more preferably between 1.5 and 3 and better still between 2 and 2.5.

The waxy homopolymers and copolymers can be obtained in known manner from ethylene and/or propylene monomers, for example by metallocene catalysis according to the process described in document EP 571 882.

Homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene and/or propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis can be unmodified or "polar" modified (polar modified waxes, i.e. waxes modified so as to have the properties of a polar). The polar modified waxy homopolymers and copolymers can be prepared in known manner from unmodified waxy homopolymers and copolymers such as those described previously by oxidation with gases containing oxygen, such as air, or by grafting with polar monomers such as maleic acid or acrylic acid or, as a variant, derivatives of these acids. These two routes allowing the polar modification of the polyolefins obtained by metallocene catalysis are described, respectively, in the documents EP 890 583 and US Pat. No. 5,998,547, for example.

Simultaneous use of components B1) and B2)

The inventors have surprisingly discovered that the simultaneous use of at least two specific thickeners, i.e. component B1), a thickener having a melting point approaching or below body temperature human, and component B2), a thickener having a melting point suitably above the temperature of the human body, can be particularly advantageous. Without being limited by any known theory, it is believed that the simultaneous use of these components B1) and B2) can result in a composition with desirable stability and thickened effect.

Thus, according to a preferable embodiment of the present invention, the criterion for classifying a conventional thickener into component B1) or B2) depends mainly on its melting point, rather than on its nature, structure, molecular weight or others. Consequently, any thickener conventionally used for cosmetic use can be used within the meaning of the present invention, in particular the "semi-crystalline or crystalline lipophilic thickener" described above, where a semi-crystalline or crystalline lipophilic thickener having a melting point approaching or below human body temperature can be used as component B1), while a semi-crystalline or crystalline lipophilic thickener having a melting point suitably above human body temperature can be used as component B2).

“Human body temperature” is about 37°C. Therefore, within the meaning of the present invention, a temperature/melting point "approaching" human body temperature means a temperature within a range of approximately ±2°C of 37°C, i.e. d about 35 to about 39°C. In comparison, a temperature/melting point "suitably" above human body temperature means a temperature significantly higher than human body temperature, for example a temperature of 40°C or more, while not being too high, for example not more than 80°C.

Referring to the melting point of the semi-crystalline polymer above, a useful component B1) according to the present invention can therefore be a thickener, in particular that specified in "Semi-crystalline or crystalline lipophilic thickener", having a melting point from about 30°C to about 39°C, preferably from about 35°C to about 38°C. At the same time, a component B2) useful according to the present invention can therefore be a thickener, in particular that specified in "Semi-crystalline or crystalline lipophilic thickener", having a melting point of approximately 40° C. to approximately 60° C., preferably from about 45°C to about 50°C.

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, in particular when a semi-crystalline polymer is used, the components B1) and B2) can therefore: belong to the same category of compounds, such as both being a (poly)ester; be polymers derived from similar monomers or even having the same monomer among the others; or having the same skeleton.

For example, components B1) and B2) can be selected independently from the group of semi-crystalline polymers containing a crystallizable side chain consisting of C8-C30, preferably C10-C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate homopolymers , or C8-C30 alkyl (meth)acrylamide, preferably C10-C30 alkyl, copolymers of these monomers and of a hydrophilic monomer preferably of a different nature from (meth)acrylic acid, for example N -vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof, provided that they respectively have the required melting points.

It is known in the art that with respect to a polymer, besides the monomer, certain other factors affect its melting point, such as the degree of polymerization, the degree of substitution, the configuration and/or the conformation of the molecule, grafting, blocking and so on. In general, for example, the higher the degree of polymerization, the higher the melting point of the polymer. Likewise, in some cases, a higher degree of substitution of a polymer can lead to a lower melting point.

For example, two polymers with the same INCI name “Poly C10-C30 alkyl acrylate” can be used respectively as components B1) and B2). For example, the product TEGO SP 13-1 from EVONIK (AIR PRODUCTS), having a relatively low degree of polymerization, a relatively high degree of substitution and a melting point of about 38°C, can be used as component B1 ); while the product TEGO SP 13-6 from EVONIK (AIR PRODUCTS), having a relatively high degree of polymerization, a relatively low degree of substitution and a melting point of about 49°C, can be used as component B2) .

For both desirable stability and thickened effect, it is preferred that components B1) and B2) be used in relatively similar amounts. Thus, according to a preferable embodiment of the invention, the components B1) and B2) are respectively used in a weight ratio of 1: 2 to 2: 1, preferably of 1: 1.5 to 1.5: 1 .

Advantageously, the inventors have found that in particular for stability, it is preferable that component B1) be used in an amount of 3% by weight or more, preferably 4% by weight or more; and/or component B2) is used in an amount of 2% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, respectively based on the total weight of the thickening composition. Then, in one embodiment of the invention, the total amount of components B1) and B2) is between 5% by weight and 20% by weight, preferably between 6% by weight and 15% by weight, or preferably between 7% by weight and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the thickening composition.

Component C), C10-C28 linear alkane

The thickening composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one linear alkane containing from 10 to 28 carbon atoms, that is to say a linear C10-C28 alkane.

Examples of linear alkanes suitable for use in the composition of the present invention include n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13 ), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), n-hexadecanol (C16), n-heptadecane (C17), n-octacosane (C18), n-nonadecane (C19), n-eocosane (C20) , n-heniocosane (C21), n-docosane (C22), n-tricosane (C23), n-tetracosane (C24), n-pentacosane (C25), n-hexacosane (C26), n-heptacosane (C27), n-octacosane (C28), and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the linear alkane is chosen from linear C12-C24 alkanes.

Or preferably, the linear alkane is chosen from linear C14-C22 alkanes.

In some embodiments, the linear alkane used is a C15-C19 linear alkane.

As a commercial product of linear alkanes, mention may be made of the C15-19 alkane sold under the name EMOGREEN™ L19 by the company SEPPIC.

Advantageously, the linear alkane is present in an amount ranging from 20% by weight to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% by weight to 65% by weight, or preferably from 40% by weight to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the thickening composition.

Component D), synthetic oil

The thickening composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one synthetic oil, in particular an oil of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ to be used as component D).

In the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R ₁ + R ₂ 16.

Preferably, the oil of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ is chosen from the esters of a C6-C24 carboxylic acid and of a C4-C20 alcohol, at least one of the acid and the alcohol being branched or unsaturated; or preferably chosen from esters of a C12-C20 carboxylic acid and of a C4-C10 alcohol, at least one of the acid and of the alcohol being branched or unsaturated.

More particularly, the synthetic oil of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ is chosen from:

- C4-C10 alkyl myristates, in particular isobutyl myristate, isohexyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl myristate or isodecanyl myristate;

- C4-C10 alkyl palmitates, in particular isobutyl palmitate, isohexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate or isodecanyl palmitate;

- C4-C10 alkyl (iso)stearates, in particular isobutyl isostearate, isohexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate or isodecanyl isostearate, and

- their mixtures.

In fact, the oil of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ intended to be used as synthetic oil can be chosen from mono-, di-, tri-, tetra-esters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. As such, mention may be made in particular of: dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; ethylene glycol distearate; diethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol distearate.

According to one embodiment, the synthetic oil of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ is chosen from the esters of a C6-C24 monocarboxylic acid and of a C4-C20 alcohol, at least one of the acid and of the alcohol being branched or unsaturated; or preferably chosen from dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; ethylene glycol distearate; diethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol distearate.

As a commercial synthetic oil product of formula R1COOR ₂ , mention may be made of 2-ethylhexyl palmitate sold under the name CEGESOFT® C 24 by the company BASF; and pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate sold under the name JOLEE® 7181 by the company OLEON.

Advantageously, the synthetic oil, in particular that of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , can be present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the thickening composition.

Component E), vegetable oil

The thickening composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one vegetable oil, in particular of the triglyceride type for component E).

Preferably, the vegetable oils of the triglyceride type are chosen from sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil , castor oil, olive oil; avocado oil ; Argan Oil ; camellia oil, palm oil, corn germ oil, cottonseed oil, peanut oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, babassu oil, coconut oil, rapeseed oil, almond, linseed oil, safflower oil, as well as mixtures thereof.

Or preferably, the vegetable oils of the triglyceride type are chosen from sunflower oil, jojoba oil, argania spinosa kernel oil, coconut oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil and avocado oil.

As a commercial product of vegetable oil of the triglyceride type, mention may be made of the seed oil of helianthus annuus (sunflower) sold under the name REFINED SUNFLOWER OIL by the company AAK KAMANI PRIVATE, the seed oil of SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA ) sold under the name JD FFL JOJOBA GOLDEN OIL by the company JOJOBA DESERT, cocos nucifera (coconut) oil sold under the name ACTIVATED VIRGIN COCONUT OIL by the company BIOTROPICS, the kernel oil of ARGANIA SPINOSA sold under the name LIPOFRUCTYL ARGAN BE LS 9779 by the company BASF BEAUTY CARE SOLUTION, and prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil sold under the name APRICOT KERNEL OIL REFINED DAC by the company GUSTAV HEESS.

Advantageously, the vegetable oil of the triglyceride type can be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, or preferably from 3% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the thickening composition.

Extra oil

The thickening composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additional oils in addition to the oils described above.

The additional oils can be non-volatile oils and/or volatile oils.

The supplemental oil can be a silicone oil, a fluorinated oil, a hydrocarbon-based oil, or a mixture of these.

The term “fluorinated oil” denotes an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The additional oil may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

The silicone oil and the fluorinated oil can be chosen from polar oils, apolar oils or mixtures thereof.

The "hydrocarbon base oil" used as supplemental oil may be polar oils.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “polar oil” means that a solubility parameter of the oil at 25° C., δa, is different from 0 (J/cm ³ ) ^1/2 .

According to a preferred embodiment, the thickening composition according to the present invention comprises at least one additional oil, such as squalane.

The C10-C28 linear alkane intended for use as component C) is known to be a fatty and usually liquid substance. Thus, component C) can also be enjoyed as an oil. That is, components C), D), E) and optionally additional oil that may be present in the thickening composition of the present invention may each be an oil. Advantageously, the total amount of all the oils optionally present in the thickening composition of the present invention is between 40% by weight and 99.5% by weight, preferably between 50% by weight and 98% by weight, or preferably between 60% by weight and 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the thickening composition.

Adjuvants or additives

The thickening composition of the present invention may include conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example perfumes, chelating agents (for example, disodium EDTA), preservatives (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, fillers, antioxidants (for example, tocopherols, such as d-alpha-tocopherol, d-beta-tocopherol, d-gamma-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol), pH regulators ( for example, citric acid, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide), and mixtures thereof.

A person skilled in the art can select the amount of adjuvants or additional additive so as not to negatively affect the end use of the thickening composition according to the present invention.

Anhydrous form

Within the meaning of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention can be essentially in an anhydrous form. According to the present invention, the inclusion of water or moisture in the composition is preferably avoided; however, competent persons readily understand that water may not be 100% removed. For example, although water is not intentionally added, it may be provided by composition ingredients that contain it in residual amounts, may be incorporated during production, or may be absorbed from the environment during production and /or storage.

Accordingly, as used herein, the term "anhydrous" means the absence of water or the presence of water in such an amount that qualified persons can determine it to be free or substantially free of water. For example, an “anhydrous” composition according to the present invention can comprise less than 2%, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, an "anhydrous" composition according to the present invention does not comprise a detectable amount of water, the "detectable amount" meaning an amount that can be detected by a device conventionally used in the art for measuring water content.

Optionally, components A) to E), as well as, if present, any other component, are subjected to a water removal step before being incorporated into the composition of the present invention. The technical means for the removal of water are not particularly limited, as long as the composition obtained is "anhydrous".

The thickening composition of the present invention may be in the form of an oily gel or an oily balm.

The viscosity of the thickening composition according to the invention can be measured at 25° C., using a ProRheo R180 viscometer fitted with an M2 or M3 spindle rotating at 200 revolutions/min.

Method and use

The compositions according to the invention can be manufactured by known processes, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field.

According to one embodiment, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous material, in particular the scalp, comprising the application of the thickening composition according to the present invention to the skin, in particular the scalp.

The thickening composition according to the present invention can prevent water-soluble dyes and strong alkaline components from passing through the stratum corneum to reach the living epidermis.

At the same time, the thickening composition according to the present invention does not have a negative impact on the dyeing effect of a dyeing composition on the hair.

Furthermore, the thickening composition according to the present invention does not have a negative impact on the bleaching effect of a bleaching product on the hair.

According to one embodiment, the present invention proposes in particular the use of the thickening composition to form an isolation on the human body, in particular on the keratinous material, for example on the scalp.

The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without however being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLES

The amounts/concentrations of the ingredients in the compositions/formulas described below are expressed in % by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition/formula.

The main raw materials used, their trade name and supplier are indicated below.

INCI name Trade name Provider C15-19 ALKANE EMOGREEN L19 SEPPIC SQUALANE NEOSSANCE SQUALANE AMYRIS PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE JOLEE 7181 OLEON POLY C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE TEGO SP 13-1 EVONIK (AIR PRODUCTS) POLY C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE TEGO SP 13-6 EVONIK (AIR PRODUCTS) SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED OIL / SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OIL JD FFL JOJOBA GOLDEN OIL JOJOBA DESERT HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL / HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL REFINED SUNFLOWER OIL AAK KAMANI PRIVATE PRUNUS ARMENIACA (APRICOT) KERNEL OIL / PRUNUS ARMENIACA KERNEL OIL APRICOT KERNEL OIL REFINED-L'OREAL GRADE LA030105 NATUREX COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) OIL / COCOS NUCIFERA OIL ACTIVATED VIRGIN COCONUT OIL BIOTROPICS POLYETHYLENE PERFORMALENE 500-L New Phase Technologies

Example 1

Compositions according to the comparative formula (Comp.) 1 and the formula of the invention (Inv.) 1 were prepared according to the contents indicated in table 2.

Ingredient Inv.1 Comp.1 SQUALANE 10 10 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE 11.4 11.4 POLYACRYLATE ALKYL C10-30 (TEGO SP 13-1) 4 4 POLYACRYLATE ALKYL C10-30 (TEGO SP 13-6) 3 3 SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED OIL 5 5 SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED OIL 5 5 TOCOPHEROL 0.5 0.5 POLYETHYLENE 0.5 ALCANE C15-19 QS QS

Preparation process:

The thickening compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking the thickening composition of Inv.1 as an example:

1). Blend of SQUALANE, PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE, POLY POLYACRYLATE C10-30 ALKYL (TEGO SP 13-1), POLYACRYLATE ALKYL C10-30 (TEGO SP 13-6), SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED OIL / SEED OIL OF SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS, SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED OIL / HUILE DE SENES DE SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS, POLYETHYLENE, ALCANE C15-19 to obtain a mixture and heat the mixture to 85°C and homogenize the mixture by stirring, followed by cooling to 50°C; and

2). Addition of TOCOPHEROL in the mixture to obtain the thickening composition.

Example 2

The viscosity was measured at 25° C., using a Rheomat R180 viscometer equipped with an M3 or M2 spindle, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the thickening composition (time after which a stabilization of the viscosity and of the rotational speed of the spindle is observed), at a shearing speed of 200 holes/min.

The viscosities have been summarized in Table 3 below.

Properties Comp.1 Inv. 1 Viscosity 50.1 UD M3 51.6 UD

Example 3

The appearance of each composition prepared in Example 1 was observed over time to assess the stability of the composition. Photos have been taken respectively for Inv.1 compositions over time under various conditions, and have been provided on the . The results of the have been summarized in Table 4 below:

EX.1 -10°C
1 day 10 day cycle*
(-20°C-20°C) 50°C
2 weeks 4°C
2 months YOUR
2 months 37°C
2 months 45°C
2 months COMMENTS NO OIL LEAKAGE NO OIL LEAKAGE NO OIL LEAKAGE NO OIL LEAKAGE NO OIL LEAKAGE NO OIL LEAKAGE NO OIL LEAKAGE

*: for the 10-day cycle, the temperature was increased from -20°C to 20°C every day at a heating rate of 0.6°C/hour.

Apparently, composition Inv.1 showed sufficient stability, as there was no oil leakage during the full stability test.

Example 4

The compositions prepared according to Example 1 could act as a screen for the scalp. Accordingly, the protection capability was tested.

The in vitro protection function of the thickening compositions prepared according to Example 1 was evaluated by EpiSkin™ as follows.

Models:

EpiSkin™ reconstructed epidermis models were used.

EpiSkin™ tissues and medium were purchased from Shanghai EPISKIN Biotechnology Co, Ltd. The size of the EpiSkin™ fabric is 1.07 cm ² .

For bleaching products:

The thickening composition under test (30 μl) was applied topically to the epidermal model (two units of epidermis were used per test group). Then, 75 µl of a mixture of a bleaching powder for hair (L'oréal professional blond studio 8 from L'oréal company) and a developer (L'oréal professional oxidant cream from L'oréal company) mixed in a volume ratio of 1:1.5 were applied topically to the epidermal model (application for 45 minutes at room temperature with a nylon net). Exposure was terminated by rinsing with phosphate buffered saline (PBS).

For coloring products

The thickening composition under test (30 μl) was applied topically to the epidermal model (two units of epidermis were used per test group). Then, 75 µl of a mixture of a colorant (L'oréal professional Maji fashion colorant 12.11 without tint from the company L'oréal) and a developer (L'oréal professional oxidant cream from the company L'oréal) mixed in a volume ratio of 1:1.5 were applied topically to the epidermal model (application for 45 minutes at room temperature with a nylon net). Exposure was terminated by rinsing with phosphate buffered saline (PBS).

Post-incubation: The epidermis was then incubated at 37°C for 18 hours.

Viability was estimated by incubating tissues for 3 hours with MTT solution. The precipitated formazan was then extracted using acidified isopropanol for 2 days at 4°C and quantified spectrophotometrically at 570 nm using 96-well plates.

An epidermis without application of the test composition (bleaching + coloring alone) and an epidermis without treatment were used as positive and negative controls respectively.

The shows the amount of formazan for different treatments, where “NC” denotes the original cell viability on a skin model without any treatment; "Maji Alone" refers to cell viability on unprotected skin, for which a Majirel 12.11 tint product from L'Oréal was used; "B + Maji Alone" refers to cell viability on skin treated by bleaching hair with "BLOND STUDIO 8" by L'Oréal, followed by dyeing with Majirel 12.11 by L'Oréal.

We can see on the that the thickening composition Inv.1 showed a better insulation function on the chemical treatment to irritate the scalp than that of Comp.1, thanks to the incorporation of polyethylene to reinforce the insulation.

Claims (10)

Thickening composition for the care of keratinous material, in particular of the scalp, comprising the following components:
A) polyethylene particles having a melting point below 95°C; and.
B) at least two thickeners, comprising components B1) a thickener having a melting point near or below human body temperature, and B2) a thickener having a melting point suitably above human body temperature . A thickening composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyethylene particles have a melting point below 90°C, or preferably below 85°C; and above ambient temperature. Thickening composition according to claim 1 or according to claim 2, in which components B1) are a poly(C10-C30 alkyl acrylate) having a melting point of 30°C to 39°C, preferably 35° C to 38°C; while component B2) is a poly(C10-C30 alkyl acrylate) having a melting point of 40°C to 60°C, preferably 45°C to 50°C. Thickening composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the components B1) and the components B2) are respectively used in a weight ratio of 1:2 to 2:1, preferably of 1:1.5 to 1 ,5:1. A thickening composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising a linear C10-C28 alkane for use as component C), which is selected from a linear C12-C24 alkane, preferably from a linear C14 alkane -C22, or preferably from a linear C15-C19 alkane. A thickening composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising a synthetic oil for use as component D), selected from esters of a C6-C24 monocarboxylic acid and a C4-C20 alcohol, at least one of the acid and of the alcohol being branched or unsaturated; or preferably chosen from dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; ethylene glycol distearate; diethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol distearate. A thickening composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising a triglyceride vegetable oil for use as component E), selected from sunflower oil, jojoba oil, argania spinosa kernel oil, coconut oil , corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil and avocado oil. A thickening composition according to any preceding claim which is anhydrous. Non-therapeutic process for caring for keratinous material, in particular the scalp, comprising the application of the thickening composition according to any one of the preceding claims to the skin, in particular the scalp. Use of the thickening composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, to form insulation on the human body, in particular on a keratinous material, for example on the scalp.