FR3115200A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING HEART/ENVELOPE TYPE CAPSULES - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing one or more capsules of core/envelope type, the capsule(s) comprising a liquid phase which comprises one or more liquid fatty substances, as constituent of the core, and one or more powders chosen from fatty substances , surfactants and mixtures thereof, as constituent(s) of the envelope. The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, preferably human, using this composition.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING HEART/ENVELOPE TYPE CAPSULES

The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition containing one or more capsules of the core/envelope type, the capsule(s) comprising a liquid phase which comprises one or more liquid fatty substances, as constituent of the core, and one or more fatty substance powders and/or surfactants as constituent(s) of the envelope. It also relates to a process for treating keratinous materials using it, and its use for cleaning and/or caring for the skin and/or the hair.

In the field of cleaning and caring for keratin materials, preferably human, such as the skin and the hair, it is known to use powders. These powders are composed of different particles having certain functions for washing the hair, caring for or making up keratin materials. These particles can have a core/envelope structure.

Such particles are described for example in US Pat. No. 6,290,941. They consist of porous silica with a hydrophobic coating in which is incorporated an aqueous phase comprising water and a water-soluble polymer.

Document US 2014/345640 discloses particles comprising an envelope based on a metal oxide rendered hydrophobic, and an aqueous liquid phase as a core. At least one cosmetic agent is adsorbed or absorbed onto the metal oxide.

However, these particles can be subject to phenomena of uncontrolled release of the liquid contained in the core and thus present problems of stability over time and/or with respect to temperature.

There is therefore a real need to have capsules with a liquid core and a solid envelope, having good stability over time and temperature, which also allow easy spreading and good distribution/application of the liquid contained in the core to the hair. or the skin at a specific location.

The applicant has thus surprisingly discovered that the encapsulation of a liquid fatty substance in a particular solid envelope makes it possible to satisfy this need.

The subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition containing one or more capsules of the core/envelope type, the capsule or capsules comprising a liquid phase which comprises one or more liquid fatty substances, as constituent of the core, and one or more powders chosen from fatty substances, surfactants and mixtures thereof, as constituent(s) of the envelope.

This cosmetic composition is stable over time, that is to say that the liquid from the core does not flow through the envelope. In addition, its structure hardly varies with temperature.

This cosmetic composition spreads easily on keratin materials and can be better applied to a determined location such as at the root or the tip of the hair or on the skin of the face or of the body.

Another object of the invention is a process for treating keratin materials, preferably human, such as the skin and the hair using said cosmetic composition.

A further subject of the invention is the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for cleaning and/or caring for the skin and/or the hair.

Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions “ included between ” and “ ranging from … to … ”.

The expression “ at least one ” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “ one or more ”.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention contains one or more capsules of the core/envelope type, the core comprising a liquid phase which comprises one or more liquid fatty substances, and the envelope comprising one or more powders chosen from fatty substances, surfactants and their mixtures.

The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, i.e. 1.013.10 ⁵ Pa), that is to say of lower solubility to 5% and preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.1%.

Fats are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The capsules preferably have a size ranging from 100 μm to 10 mm, better still from 200 to 8000 μm, even better still from 500 to 7000 μm, more preferentially from 800 μm to 5 mm in its largest dimension, and even more preferentially between 1 and 2mm. The size of the capsules can be measured by optical microscopy or binocular loupe.

The capsules preferably have a volume ranging from 5 to 2000 microliters, better still from 10 to 1000 microliters, even better from 50 to 800 microliters, preferentially from 100 to 500 microliters.

The liquid core comprises one or more liquid fatty substances, and any cosmetic active ingredients.

The liquid fatty substances that can be used in the invention are liquid at room temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, ie 1.013.10 ⁵ Pa). They preferably have a viscosity less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better still less than or equal to 1 Pa.s and even better still less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at a temperature of 25° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 .

The liquid fatty substances that can be used in the composition according to the invention are generally not oxyalkylenated and preferably do not contain any COOH carboxylic acid function. Preferably, the liquid fatty substances according to the invention are not oxyalkylenated.

The liquid fatty substances can be chosen from liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, silicones, hydrocarbons, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the liquid fatty substances are chosen from liquid fatty esters, in particular esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, the fatty acids comprising for example from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty esters are chosen from esters of mono-, di- or triacids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C ₆ -C ₃₀ , better still C ₈ -C ₂₂ , and of glycerol. They can be of natural or synthetic origin

As liquid fatty esters, mention may thus be made, for example, of oils of plant origin and/or synthetic triglycerides, such as:
- triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or else, for example oils of sunflower, corn, soya, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado, olive, rapeseed, copra, germ of wheat, sweet almond, apricot, safflower, banknut, camelina, tamanu, babassu and pracaxi, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL, jojoba oil, shea butter oil.

Even more preferentially, the liquid fatty esters can be chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable origin, better still from sunflower oil, soybean oil, olive oil, avocado oil, alone or their mixtures.

The total quantity of liquid fatty substance(s) can range from 50 to 100% by weight, better still from 75 to 100% by weight, preferably from 80 to 100% by weight, more preferentially from 90 to 100% by weight, better still from 95 to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the liquid phase constituting the core. When one or more cosmetic active agents are present in the liquid phase, the total quantity of liquid fatty substance(s) can range from 50 to 99.9% by weight, better still from 75 to 99% by weight, in particular from 80 to 95 % by weight, for example from 85 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the liquid phase of the heart.

The total amount of liquid fatty substance(s) preferably represents from 30 to 85% by weight, better still from 35 to 80% by weight, even better still from 40 to 75% by weight, more preferentially from 45 to 70% by weight per relative to the total weight of the capsule.

The liquid phase of the core can also comprise one or more cosmetic active agents.

By way of examples, mention may in particular be made of anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic active ingredient(s), when they are present, can be included in a total amount ranging from 0.03 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the liquid phase.

Preferably the liquid phase is anhydrous. By anhydrous is meant within the meaning of the present invention that the water content is less than 5% by weight, preferably 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the liquid phase. In particular, the liquid phase does not include any added water, any water present being able to be provided by the other raw materials used within the liquid phase.

More preferably, the liquid phase is free of water (0%).

The envelope comprises one or more powders chosen from fatty substances, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

The powder or powders constituting the envelope preferably have a particle size ranging from 5 μm to 1000 μm, better still from 10 to 500 μm, more preferentially from 50 to 200 μm, in its largest dimension. This size can be measured by optical microscopy.

The fatty substances and/or the surfactants that can be used in the envelope of the capsules of the invention are likely to be in powder form. In other words, they can be in solid form and can then be reduced to powder by grinding in particular.

The fatty substances which may be in powder form are preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, preferably solid, fatty acids, preferably solid, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, preferably solid, waxes and their mixtures.

By “solid”, we mean a compound that is not liquid at room temperature (25°C) and under atmospheric pressure.

More particularly, the fatty alcohols capable of being powdered are chosen from solid fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from solid, linear saturated fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

Preferably, mention may be made, for example, of lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. More particularly, behenyl alcohol is used.

The fatty acids capable of being used in powder form in the invention are in particular solid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, they are chosen from linear saturated solid fatty acids of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still of 12 to 22 carbon atoms, it being possible for the C _8-30 alkyl chain, preferably C _12-22 alkyl chain, to be substituted by at least one hydroxy group.

As examples of fatty acids, mention may preferably be made of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, behenic acid and their mixtures, more preferably lauric acid, stearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and behenic acid.

The ester(s) of fatty acid and/or solid fatty alcohols which can be used in the composition according to the invention are generally chosen from solid esters derived from C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and/or from fatty alcohols in _C8 - _C30 .

Preferably, mention may be made by way of examples of cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, pelargonate of octyl, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate.

A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point above approximately 40° C. and being able to go up to 200°C, and presenting in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization.

By way of examples, the wax or waxes can be chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter, cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as essential blackcurrant flower wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; non-silicone synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, polypropylene waxes, and/or polytetrafluoroethylene waxes; and their mixtures.

In a particular embodiment, the fatty substance capable of being in powder form is chosen from behenyl alcohol, lauric acid, stearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, behenic acid, cetyl alcohol , stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

The surfactant(s) likely to be in powder form and usable in the present invention can be chosen from anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, nonionic and cationic surfactants, preferably among anionic, amphoteric and cationic surfactants.

The term “anionic surfactant” is understood to mean a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups -CO ₂ H, -CO ₂ ^- , -SO ₃ H, -SO ₃ ^- , -OSO 3 H, _{-OSO 3} ^- , -H ₂ PO ₃ , -HPO ₃ ^- , -PO ₃ ^2- , -H ₂ PO ₂ , -HPO ₂ ^- , -PO ₂ ^2- , -POH, -PO ^- .

As examples of anionic surfactants which can be used in the composition, mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkylamide sulphonates, alkylaryl sulphonates, alpha-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfo-acetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, N-acylglycinates, salts of alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside-uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids; and the corresponding unsalified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group designating a phenyl group.

The salts of C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C ₆ -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates ₂₄ and C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates.

When the anionic surfactants are in the form of salts, they can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts , salts of amines and in particular of amino alcohols or salts of alkaline-earth metals such as the magnesium salt.

By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may in particular be made of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1- propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane.

Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

In a first variant, the powdered anionic surfactants can be chosen from (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )alkyl sulphates, in particular in the form of salts of alkali metals, ammonium, amino alcohols, and alkaline-earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds.

Even better, in this variant, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ )alkyl sulphates are preferred, in particular in the form of salts of alkali metals, of ammonium, of aminoalcohols, and of alkaline-earth metals. More preferably, sodium lauryl sulfate is preferred.

In a second variant, the anionic surfactants can be chosen from surfactants with anionic groups chosen from –C(O)OH, –C(O)O ^- , -SO ₃ H, -S(O) ₂ O ^- , such as alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, acyllactylates, N-acyl glycinates, alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms.

In particular, it is possible to use (C _6-40 acyl)glutamates, better still (C _6-24 acyl)glutamates such as, for example, the disodium cocoyl glutamate offered under the trade name PLANTAPON ACG LC by the company BASF, or (C _6-40 acyl)isethionates, better still (C _6-24 acyl)isethionates such as, for example, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate marketed by the company INNOSPEC under the trade name ISELUX LQ-CLR-SB, and sodium cocoyl isethionate.

Preferably, the powdered anionic surfactants are chosen from (C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ )alkyl sulphates, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )alkyl sulphosuccinates, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )acyl sarcosinates, (C 6 -C ₆ -acyl) C ₂₄ )glutamates, acyl(C ₆ -C ₂₄ )isethionates, N-acyl(C ₆ -C ₂₄ )glycinates, and mixtures thereof, and better still among alkyl(C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ )sulfates, acyl (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )isethionates and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, the powdered anionic surfactants are chosen from sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium cocosulfate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl glycinate and their mixtures, and even better among lauryl sulphate, sodium cocosulphate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, and their mixtures.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants which can be used may in particular be derivatives of optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group, and in which the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a straight or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Mention may be made in particular of (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl amido(C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl betaines such as cocoamidopropyl betaine, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amido(C ₁ -C ₆ )alkylsulfobetaines.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives which may be used, mention may also be made of the products of the following structures (I) and (II) respectively:

R _a -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ - N ⁺ (R _b )(R _c )(CH ₂ COO ^- ) (I)

in which :

R _a represents a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an R _a -COOH acid preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,

R _b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and

R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;

R _a' -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N(B)(B') (II)

in which :

B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX',

X' represents the group -CH ₂ -COOH, CH ₂ -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,

B' represents -(CH ₂ ) _z -Y', with z = 1 or 2,

Y' represents –COOH, –COOZ', the group -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ H or -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ Z',

Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an aminoalcohol, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanol-amine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino-methane.

R _a' represents a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a' -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular C ₁₇ and its iso form, an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

These compounds are also classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

It is also possible to use compounds of formula (IIbis):

R _a'' -NH-CH(Y'')-(CH ₂ ) _n -C(O)-NH-(CH ₂ ) _n' -N(R _d )(R _e ) (IIbis)

formula in which:

Y'' represents the group –C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ'', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-SO ₃ H or the group -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-SO ₃ -Z '';

R _d and R _e , independently of one another, represent a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group;

Z'' represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

R _a'' represents a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a'' -C(O)OH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil;

n and n', independently of each other, designate an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds of formula (IIa), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants in powder form are chosen from (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl betaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylamido(C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl betaines and (C _{8 -C} 6 )alkyl betaines ₂₀ ) amphodiacetates, as well as mixtures thereof, and better still from alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) amidoalkyl (C ₁ -C ₆ ) betaines.

Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants in powder form are chosen from cocamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, cocoamphodiacetate, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the powdered amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine.

Examples of powdered nonionic surfactants that can be used in the cosmetic product to be applied are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols and (C ₁ -C ₂₀ )alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging in particular from 2 to 30.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, esters of fatty acids of polyethylene glycol, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)-mono- or polyglycosides, derivatives of N-(C ₆ -C 24 alkyl) glucamine, amine oxides such as (C 6 -C ₂₄ alkyl) oxides C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ ) amines or N-(C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ acyl) aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)-mono- or polyglycosides.

In one embodiment, the powdered surfactants are chosen from (C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ )alkyl sulfates, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )alkyl sulfosuccinates, (C 6 -C 24 )acyl sarcosinates, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ acyl)sarcosinates, ₆ -C ₂₄ )glutamates, acyl(C ₆ -C ₂₄ )isethionates, N-acyl(C ₆ -C ₂₄ )glycinates, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaines, alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amido(C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl betaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl amphodiacetates, and mixtures thereof.

The term "cationic surfactant" means a positively charged surfactant when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant can bear one or more permanent positive charges or contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention.

The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may in particular be made, for example:

- those corresponding to the following general formula (III):
(III)
in which the groups R ₁ to R ₄ , which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R ₁ to R ₄ denoting an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are for example chosen from C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C ₂ -C ₆ ), C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkylamide, alkyl (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) amido(C ₂ -C ₆ )alkyl, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )alkylacetate, and C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydroxyalkyl; X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl sulphates, (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl- or (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl aryl sulphonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III), preference is given, on the one hand, to tetraalkylammonium salts such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 atoms of carbon, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts or else, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyl-trimethylammonium, stearamidopropyldimethyl-cetearylammonium salts, or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate )-ammonium marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of its compounds.

- the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example those of formula (IV) below:
(IV)
in which R ₅ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R ₆ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl group or alkyl having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ₇ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, R ₈ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulphonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise respectively from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, R ₅ and R ₆ denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R ₇ denotes a methyl group, R ₈ denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO;

- quaternary di or triammonium salts in particular of formula (V):
(V)
in which R ₉ denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and/or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R ₁₀ is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R _9a )(R _10a )(R _11a )N-(CH ₂ ) ₃ ,

R _9a , R _10a , R _11a , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ and R ₁₄ , which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )sulfates, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )sulphonates and alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )aryl-sulphonates, in particular methylsulphate and ethylsulphate . Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75);

- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (VI) below:
(VI)
in which :

R ₁₅ is chosen from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl groups and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

R ₁₆ is chosen from:

- the group

- the R ₂₀ groups which are hydrocarbon groups in
C ₁ -C ₂₂ , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,

- the hydrogen atom,

R ₁₈ is chosen from:

- the group

- R ₂₂ groups which are C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,

- the hydrogen atom,

R ₁₇ , R ₁₉ and R ₂₁ , which are identical or different, are chosen from C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

r, s and t, identical or different, are integers equal to 2
at 6;

y is an integer from 1 to 10;

x and z, identical or different, are integers with a value of 0
at 10;

X ^- is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion;

provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R ₁₆ denotes R ₂₀ and that when z is 0 then R ₁₈ denotes R ₂₂ .

The R ₁₅ alkyl groups can be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R ₁₅ denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R ₁₆ is a hydrocarbon R ₂₀ group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R ₁₈ is a hydrocarbon R ₂₂ group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R ₁₇ , R ₁₉ and R ₂₁ , which are identical or different, are chosen from C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from C ₁₁ -C alkyl and alkenyl groups. ₂₁ , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are worth 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X ⁻ is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate, more particularly methyl sulphate. It is however possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function.

The anion X ⁻ is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

Can be used more particularly in the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (VI) in which:

R ₁₅ denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

x and y are equal to 1;

z is equal to 0 or 1;

r, s and t are equal to 2;

R ₁₆ is chosen from:

- the group

- methyl, ethyl or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon groups,

- the hydrogen atom;

R ₁₈ is chosen from:

- the group

- the hydrogen atom;

R ₁₇ , R ₁₉ and R ₂₁ , which are identical or different, are chosen from C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds of formula (VI) such as the salts (chloride or methyl sulphate in particular) of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl -hydroxyethyl-dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, the latter may be the same or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, on C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty acids or on mixtures of C ₁₀ - fatty acids. C ₃₀ of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methanesulfonate methyl, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of mono-, di- and triester quaternary ammonium salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

It is possible to use the behenoylhydroxypropyl-trimethylammonium chloride offered by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that can be used, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.

The term "fatty amines" means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or their salts and comprising at least one C ₆ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain, preferably C ₈ -C ₃₀ .

Preferably, the fatty amines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

By way of fatty amines, mention may be made of amidoamines.
The amidoamines according to the invention can be chosen from fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain possibly being carried by the amine group or by the amido group.

By amidoamine is meant a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

By fatty amidoamine is meant an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C ₆ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

Among the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of formula (B) below:
RCONHR''N(R') ₂ (B)
in which :
- R represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₅ -C alkyl radical ₂₉ , preferably C ₇ -C ₂₃ , linear or branched, or a C ₅ -C ₂₉ alkenyl radical, preferably C ₇ -C ₂₃ linear or branched;
- R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still 3 carbon atoms; And
- R ' , identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical .

The fatty amidoamines of formula (B) are, for example, chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine marketed by the company INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY under the name LEXAMINE S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, l olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from those of formula (III), those of formula (VI), the amidoamines of formula (B), and mixtures thereof, more preferably from those of formula (III) and the amidoamines of formula ( B), and mixtures thereof, best among the amidoamines of formula (B).

The particularly preferred surfactants are chosen from (C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ )alkyl sulphates, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )acyl isethionates, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl amido(C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl betaines, amidoamines of formula (B) such as stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, they are chosen from sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium cocosulfate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, cocamidopropyl betaine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

The constituent(s) of the envelope may be chosen in particular from fatty alcohols which may be in powder form, fatty acids which may be in powder form, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ )alkyl sulphates, acyl(C ₆ -C ₂₄ )isethionates, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₁ -C ₆ )betaines, amidoamines of formula (B) and mixtures thereof, better still from behenyl alcohol, lauric acid, stearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, behenic acid, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium cocosulfate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, cocamidopropyl betaine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

The total content of powder(s) of fatty substances and/or surfactants preferably ranges from 20 to 100% by weight, better still from 40 to 100% by weight, even better still from 60 to 100% by weight, or even from 80 to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the capsule shell.

When the capsule shell comprises one or more fatty substance powder(s), its content preferably ranges from 20 to 100% by weight, better still from 40 to 100% by weight, even better still from 60 to 100% by weight. , or even 80 to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the capsule shell.

When the capsule shell comprises one or more surfactant powder(s), its content preferably ranges from 20 to 100% by weight, better still from 40 to 100% by weight, even better still from 60 to 100% by weight, or even from 80 to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the capsule shell.

The total content of powder(s) of fatty substances and/or surfactant(s) preferably represents from 15 to 70% by weight, better still from 20 to 65% by weight, still better from 25 to 60% by weight, more preferably 30-55% by weight relative to the total weight of the capsule

The “total amount of liquid phase”: “total amount of powder” weight ratio is from 0.5 to 5 to 1.

The invention also relates to a process for the preparation of said composition. It includes the following steps:
- the possible prior grinding of the constituents of the envelope chosen from fatty substances likely to be in powder form, surfactants likely to be in powder form, and mixtures thereof,
- Bringing drops of liquid phase comprising one or more liquid fatty substances into contact by depositing said drops on a bed of powder particles.

The powder ground into particles is thus adsorbed spontaneously around the drop.

The capsules thus obtained can then be used directly on the skin and/or the hair and release their liquid content on application.

These capsules unlike liquid oils allow a very good distribution and spreading of the product both on the skin and the hair in a localized place.

Another object of the invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, preferably human, such as the skin and the hair, comprising the application of said capsules and/or of a cosmetic composition comprising them on said keratin materials.

The invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for cleaning and/or caring for the skin and/or the hair.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without however being limiting.

EXAMPLES

Capsules were prepared from:
i) the following liquid phases:

• Soya oil,
• sunflower oil,
• soybean oil + perfume (99/1% by weight),
• sunflower oil + perfume (99/1% by weight);

And
ii) the following fat or surfactant powders:

• sodium lauryl sulphate,
• sodium cocosulphate,
• cocamidopropyl betaine,
• sodium cocoyl isethionate,
• stearamidopropyl dimethylamine,
• behenyl alcohol,
• behenic acid,
• stearic acid,
• 12-hydroxystearic acid.

The liquid phase/powder weight ratio is 1 to 1 (for example, 1 gram of powder for 1 gram of liquid phase, the quantity of powder possibly being slightly in excess so that the whole of the drop of liquid phase or covered with powder).

All of the above combinations (36 in total) have been prepared.

Capsules of different sizes were prepared.

To obtain said capsules, the powders of fatty substances or surfactants were ground beforehand to reach a size ranging from 5 to 500 μm. The drops of liquid fatty substances were deposited by a syringe on a bed of particles and gently rolled. The particles adsorb spontaneously on the surface of the liquid and stabilize the drop forming a capsule with a liquid core.

The capsule has been found to rupture and release the oil after light shearing with the fingers.

These capsules unlike liquid oils allow a very good distribution and a good spreading of the liquid phase both on the skin and the hair at a localized place.

Indeed, the application of a volume of encapsulated oil was compared with that of the same volume of non-encapsulated oil. We observe a much more precise application on locks with the capsules. It is then possible to treat a precise area of the hair of a few centimeters or on the skin with the fingers whereas with pure oil on such a small area, it is impossible to apply it with the fingers because the oil flows and it is impossible to distribute it evenly.

Claims (15)

Cosmetic composition containing one or more capsules of the core/envelope type, the capsule(s) comprising a liquid phase which comprises one or more liquid fatty substances, as constituent of the core, and one or more powders chosen from fatty substances, surfactants and their mixtures, as constituent(s) of the casing. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the liquid fatty substance(s) is or are chosen from esters of mono-, di- or triacids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C ₆ -C ₃₀ , better in C ₈ -C ₂₂ , and glycerol. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the liquid fatty substance(s) is or are chosen from sunflower oil, soybean oil, olive oil, avocado oil, and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fatty substance(s) is or are present in a total quantity ranging from 50 to 100% by weight, better still from 75 to 100 % by weight, more preferably from 80 to 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid phase constituting the core. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fatty substance(s) is or are present in a total quantity ranging from 30 to 85% by weight, better still from 35 to 80 % by weight, even better from 40 to 75% by weight, more preferably from 45 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the capsule. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid core also comprises one or more cosmetic active agents, preferably chosen from antidandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins, sun filters, mineral or organic pigments, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 6, characterized in that the cosmetic active ingredient(s) are included in a total amount ranging from 0.03 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 8% by weight , better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the liquid phase. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substances and/or the surfactants of the envelope may be in powder form. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 8, characterized in that the fatty substance(s) which may be in powder form is or are chosen from fatty alcohols, preferably solid, fatty acids, preferably solid, esters of fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol, preferably solid, waxes and mixtures thereof, more particularly from behenyl alcohol, lauric acid, stearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, behenic acid, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 8 or 9, characterized in that the surfactant(s) which may be in powder form is or are chosen from anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, nonionic and cationic, preferably from (C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ )alkyl sulphates, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )acyl isethionates, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl amido(C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl betaines, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total quantity of fatty substance and/or surfactant(s) in powder form ranges from 20 to 100% by weight, better still from 40 to 100% by weight, even better from 60 to 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of the capsule shell. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the “total quantity of liquid phase”: “total quantity of powder” weight ratio is from 0.5 to 5 to 1. Process for preparing the cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the following steps:
- the possible prior grinding of the constituents of the envelope chosen from fatty substances likely to be in powder form, surfactants likely to be in powder form and mixtures thereof,
- Bringing drops of liquid phase comprising one or more liquid fatty substances into contact by depositing said drops on a bed of powder particles. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, preferably human, such as the skin and the hair, comprising the application of capsules as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 12, and/or of the cosmetic composition according to one any one of claims 1 to 12 on said keratin materials. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, for cleaning and/or caring for the skin and/or the hair.