FR3114027A1 - Cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of bran and germ of Oryza sativa. - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a specific cosmetic active ingredient obtained from bran and Oryza sativa germ useful in cosmetics in particular for an anti-aging effect and in particular an anti-wrinkle effect and/or for improving the radiance of the complexion.

Description

Cosmetic active ingredient comprising an extract of bran and germ of Oryza sativa.

The invention relates to a specific cosmetic active ingredient obtained from bran and Oryza sativa germ, useful in cosmetics, in particular for obtaining an anti-wrinkle effect and for improving the radiance of the complexion.

Prior art

During aging, or after exposure to stress such as UV, cellular metabolism gradually slows down. Among the molecules affected, proteins, essential components of our body and representing more than 25% of the constituents of our skin, are particularly concerned. Indeed, the latter see their renewal profoundly altered. Both less well synthesized and shaped, they can no longer perform their functions and even become harmful to the skin by promoting the appearance of wrinkles and the installation of a dull complexion.

Proteins are biological molecules that perform several essential roles for the proper functioning of our body. To be functional, each protein must acquire a specific fold. At the skin level, there are structural proteins, enzymes, hormones, signaling proteins and transport proteins. All of the biological pathways controlling the biogenesis, folding, trafficking and degradation of proteins participate in the maintenance of protein homeostasis, or proteostasis.

It is therefore essential to preserve the metabolic activity of skin cells and to maintain proteostasis during aging.

The cosmetics industry has long been interested in mitochondria, factories providing the energy the cell needs to function. Beyond the mitochondria, other organelles actively participate in cellular metabolism. It is in particular at the heart of the endoplasmic reticulum (ER) that several mechanisms lead to the production of correctly folded and functional proteins.

The ER is located in the cytoplasm of eukaryotic cells and is formed by a tubular network. Its light constitutes a favorable environment for protein synthesis. The ER ensures on the one hand the synthesis and the maturation of proteins and on the other hand, controls the quality of the neo-synthesized proteins by ensuring a folding and a correct 3D conformation.

The ER is therefore an organelle essential for proteostasis, the balance necessary to keep skin firm and radiant. However, many stressful situations can interfere with protein maturation. The newly synthesized proteins in the lumen of the ER are then no longer correctly folded, which blocks their secretion out of the organelle. Produced in excess, the malformed proteins accumulate in the lumen of the ER and the latter then finds itself in a situation of stress. In addition, the deleterious accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) leads to protein oxidation.

In response to this stressful situation, the cell is able to trigger the UPR ("Unfolded Protein Response" meaning unfolded protein response) which aims to improve the functioning of the ER and its health by increasing its capacities and thus maintaining cellular proteostasis. At the molecular level, three signaling pathways involving three transmembrane proteins (ATF6, IRE-1α and PERK) trigger the UPR.

Cellular proteostasis has been studied in different conditions such as kidney disease, diabetes or certain neurodegenerative pathologies. Nevertheless, these studies were mainly carried out under acute stress conditions involving a fatal outcome for the cell. Few studies have focused on cellular proteostasis following ER stress in the skin and none during skin aging.

However, it has been discovered that skin aging is accompanied by an alteration of the UPR response and an increase in ER stress. The absence of UPR response significantly impacts fibroblast metabolism, altering matrix dynamics. Thus, the inventor discovered that maintaining proteostasis is important to ensure matrix dynamics and thus obtain firm skin and a radiant complexion.

The objective of the invention is therefore to propose a cosmetic solution making it possible to regulate the cellular proteostasis of the skin, in particular in elderly subjects or having been photoexposed.

To meet this objective, the invention proposes to use an active targeting the ER making it possible to improve the metabolism of aged fibroblasts and thus provide an anti-wrinkle active and improving the radiance of the complexion, the quality and the thickness of the dermis.

To this end, the inventor has identified a specific active ingredient from the outer envelopes (bran and germ) of Oryza sativa , which restores the UPR response, reduces ER stress, limits the "inflammaging" process ( expression of inflammation and matrix degradation pathways), restore matrix dynamics and thus reduce wrinkles and improve the radiance of the complexion.

Rice, Oryza sativa is a species of herbaceous annual semi-aquatic plant of the Poaceae family, subfamily Oryzoideae, native to tropical regions of Asia. Oryza sativa is the third most produced crop in the world and grows at sea level and up to 2000 meters above sea level. Extracts of Oryza sativa in cosmetics are already known, including for anti-aging and anti-aging effects.

Most of the known extracts come from rice, that is to say shelled Orysa sativa grains, without the envelope, thus excluding the bran of the plant.

However, surprisingly, an extract of Oryza sativa derived specifically from the bran and the germ, used alone and applied to the skin of healthy people, makes it possible to maintain cellular proteostasis and to obtain a significant anti-wrinkle effect and effectively improve the radiance of the complexion.

A subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic active principle comprising at least one extract of bran and germ of Oryza sativa , as well as its cosmetic uses in topical application for improving the radiance of the complexion and reducing wrinkles.

A subject of the invention is also a process for obtaining such an active ingredient as well as cosmetic compositions suitable for topical application including it.

Other characteristics and advantages will emerge from the detailed description of the invention, the examples and the figures which follow.

Brief Description of Figures

represents the appearance of the dermal matrix of the volunteer, at D0, that is to say before the twice-daily application of the active principle according to the invention, to a depth of 20 μm.

represents the appearance of the dermal matrix of the volunteer, after 56 days of twice-daily application of the active principle according to the invention, at a depth of 20 μm.

represents the stage of crow's feet wrinkles in the volunteer, before and after 56 days of twice-daily application of the active principle according to the invention.

Detailed description of the invention

Definition

By “cosmetic active ingredient” or “cosmetic active ingredient” within the meaning of the invention, is meant a set of molecules having a cosmetic effect on the skin.

By "extract" of a raw material X within the meaning of the invention is meant a set of molecules extracted from X, native or resulting from the transformation (for example by hydrolysis) of the native molecules of X. Thus an extract of its and of Oryza sativa germ is a set of molecules native and/or resulting from the transformation (for example by hydrolysis) of the bran and of the germ of Oryza sativa .

By “hydrolyzate” of Oryza sativa bran or germ within the meaning of the invention, is meant any extract obtained from bran and Oryza sativa germ by a process comprising at least one enzymatic or chemical hydrolysis step. .

By "enzymatic hydrolyzate" of bran or germ of Oryza sativa within the meaning of the invention, is meant any extract obtained from bran and germ of Oryza sativa by a process comprising at least one enzymatic hydrolysis, preferably by a process comprising at least two enzymatic hydrolyses with two different proteases.

Cosmetic active ingredient

The invention therefore relates to a specific active principle, which is particularly useful in cosmetics.

The active principle according to the invention is a cosmetic active principle comprising at least one extract obtained from the outer envelopes, that is to say from the bran and from the germ of Oryza sativa , excluding any other part of the grain. rice.

Preferably, the extract obtained from bran and Oryza sativa germ is a hydrolyzate of bran and Oryza sativa germ, even more preferably an enzymatic hydrolyzate of bran and Oryza sativa germ. According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the extract of bran and germ of Oryza sativa is an enzymatic hydrolyzate obtained by a process comprising at least two successive enzymatic hydrolyses. Preferably, the enzyme(s) used for the hydrolysis(s) are proteases.

Preferably, the extract of the bran and germ of Oryza sativa , and consequently the active principle, comprises peptides. The extract comprises between 12% and 36% of peptides by weight of dry matter of the extract. The distribution and the quantity of the peptides can be determined by a spectrophotometric assay according to the method of Lowry (Lowry et al., Protein measurement with the Folin reagent, J. Biol. Chem., 193, 265-275, 1951). The characterization and quantification of the amino acids present in the extract and therefore in the active principle according to the invention can be carried out by liquid chromatography after total hydrolysis of the sample.

Preferably, the peptides constituting the active principle according to the invention have a molar mass of less than 2000 Da. These peptides include at least the following amino acids: aspartic acid, glutamine, leucine as well as valine and glycine.

Particularly preferably, the peptides have a molar mass of between 500 and 1100 Da. This corresponds to peptides comprising between 5 and 10 amino acids. In this particular case, the peptides present in the extract and therefore in the cosmetic active principle according to the invention mainly comprise the following amino acids: glycine, glutamine, leucine and valine.

The active principle according to the invention also comprises sugars. The content of total sugars (carbohydrates) in the active ingredient can be determined by the DUBOIS method (Dubois M. et al ., Analytical chemistry , 28, 3, 350-356, 1956). The content of total sugars in the active ingredient is expressed as a percentage relative to the dry matter. The active principle contains between 24% and 56% of sugars by weight relative to the dry matter. The composition in simple sugars of the carbohydrate fraction of the active principle is determined by ionic liquid chromatography and the size of the molar masses by HPLC with RI detection. The carbohydrate fraction of the active ingredient according to the invention is preferably mainly composed of sucrose and glucose in the form of oligosaccharides with an average molar mass of 540 Da.

The mineral ash content can be determined by weighing the residues resulting from the incineration of the samples of the active principle according to the invention at 550° C. in an electric muffle furnace. Preferably, the active principle according to the invention has an ash content of between 20% and 52% by weight of dry matter of the active principle.

The cosmetic active principle according to the invention can be in liquid form or in solid form.

When it is in liquid form, the active principle according to the invention consists exclusively of the extract of bran and germ of Oryza sativa accompanied by stabilizer and/or preservative system.

The extract in liquid form is preferably in the form of a clear liquid aqueous solution, with a weak odor and a very light yellow color. It can however be more colored and/or be discolored by any method known to those skilled in the art.

Preferably, the extract according to the invention in liquid form has a dry matter content of: 10 g/L to 90 g/L, even more preferably from 17 g/L to 32 g/L.

When the active principle according to the invention is in solid form, it is preferably in powder form with or without support. The support may, for example, be chosen from maltodextrins. In this case, preferably, the extract represents at least 10% by weight and the support at most 90% by weight.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the extract of the cosmetic active principle according to the invention is capable of being obtained by an extraction process comprising at least two enzymatic hydrolyses of bran and Oryza sativa germ, bran and the germ having been dissolved beforehand in water. Preferably, the two successive enzymatic hydrolyses are carried out with two different proteases. The process preferably then comprises a sorting of the molecules present in the soluble phase selected after hydrolysis, to purify the peptides of sizes less than 2000 Da.

According to one embodiment, the extract of the active principle according to the invention can be obtained by a process as described below.

Process obtaining the cosmetic active ingredient

The active principle according to the invention can be obtained by any means.

According to a particularly suitable embodiment, the active principle according to the invention is obtained by implementing the following steps:
- Solubilization of Oryza sativa bran and germ in water, preferably bran powder and Oryza sativa germ, preferably at the rate of at least 100g of Oryza sativa bran and germ per liter of water,
- at least two successive enzymatic hydrolyses, preferably at least two enzymatic hydrolyses carried out using at least two different proteases,
- separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, by any means making it possible to separate an insoluble phase from the soluble phase, for example by centrifugation, filtration or decantation,
- recovery of the soluble phase,
- enzymatic inactivation by any means allowing the inactivation of enzymatic activities, for example by heat treatment,
- molecular sorting of the molecules of the soluble phase to recover molecules with sizes less than 2000 Da and in particular peptides with sizes less than 2000 Da,
- optionally deodorization or discoloration by adding a process adjuvant allowing deodorization or discoloration,
- preferentially filtration and
- sterilizing filtration.

When blanching brown rice into white rice, the bran (outer layers of the rice grain) and the germ (embryo) are mechanically removed. This process is common in the food industry. These co-products are then reduced to powder. Thus only the molecules of the bran and the germ combined constitute the starting raw material.

Molecular sorting is preferably carried out by ultrafiltration.

An additional step to dry the hydrolyzate can be added so that it is in solid form, preferably in powder form. This can be an atomization or freeze-drying step, for example. In this case, a support such as, for example, a maltodextrin can be used.

The steps of the processes described above, taken individually, are usual in the field of extractions of active ingredients from natural raw materials and the person skilled in the art is able to adjust the reaction parameters on the basis of his knowledge. general, and so as to obtain the characteristics of the active ingredient object of the invention.

Use

The active principle according to the invention has characteristics which allow its use in cosmetics and in particular to limit the natural effects linked to aging and to improve the radiance of the complexion. In fact, it improves the quality of the dermal matrix in healthy, photo-exposed elderly subjects of Caucasian or Asian origin.

In particular, the active principle according to the invention is capable of maintaining cellular proteostasis while preserving the health of the ER. Applied to healthy skin, in particular during skin aging (natural or external stress such as UVA stress), it acts in particular:
- by increasing the UPR response, in particular by restoring this weakened response during skin aging: in particular the active principle according to the invention makes it possible to increase the synthesis of ATF6 and of IRE-1α,
- by reducing the stress of the RE,
- by limiting the "inflammaging" process: in particular the active ingredient according to the invention reduces matrix degradation by MMP-1 and inflammation mediated by IL-1α, IL-1β and IL-8,
- by increasing the matrix dynamics: in particular the active principle according to the invention increases the expression of the key markers of the extracellular matrix: in particular the active principle according to the invention increases the expression of collagen IV, of fibronectin, and promotes the synthesis of perlecan and the formation of the collagen network.

By acting on these different markers, the active ingredient according to the invention has a rebalancing action and significantly improves the quality and thickness of the dermis. Consequently, the beauty and quality of the skin are enhanced, wrinkles are significantly reduced, the skin is firmer and the radiance of the complexion revived. It is particularly suitable for mature healthy skin.

The active principle comprising at least one extract of bran and germ of Oryza sativa , can thus be used for cosmetic uses in topical application on the skin of healthy people to improve the quality of the skin, its thickness and thus improve the radiance. complexion and reduce wrinkles.

On the other hand, the active principle does not have the characteristic often claimed by rice extracts, namely the active principle according to the invention does not have an antioxidant effect and/or an anti-radical effect.

Thus, the extract according to the invention does not exhibit any anti-radical activity according to the DPPH test as presented in Table 1 below.

Diphenyl-picrylhydrazylhydrate (DPPH) is a free radical, absorbing in the violet at 517 nm. An anti-radical product leads to a disappearance of the purple color. The anti-radical activity of a substance is expressed as a percentage of inhibition of the absorbance of DPPH.

Percentage inhibition of DPPH absorbance Pure active ingredient 10% 50% active ingredient 4% 10% active ingredient 0%

At the maximum recommended dose, i.e. 10% of active ingredient, the percentage inhibition of the absorbance of DPPH is nil. Thus, the extract according to the invention does not exhibit any anti-radical activity.

Cosmetic compositions

The active principles according to the invention are preferably used in cosmetic compositions comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium. These are compositions in different galenic forms, suitable for topical application to the skin.

These compositions may in particular be in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, multiple emulsions (Water/Oil/Water or Oil/Water/Oil) which may optionally be microemulsions or nanoemulsions, or in the form of solutions, suspensions, hydrodispersions, aqueous gels or powders. They can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of creams, emulsions or gels or any other aspect of healthy skin care cosmetics.

They may be compositions comprising at least 0.1% of the liquid active principle according to the invention, preferably between 0.5 and 10% or comprising at least 0.01% of a powder active principle according to the invention.

These compositions comprise, in addition to the active principle, a physiologically acceptable and preferably cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which does not cause feelings of discomfort for the user such as redness, tightness or tingling.

The compositions according to the invention may contain, as adjuvant, at least one compound chosen from:
- oils, which can be chosen in particular from silicone oils, linear or cyclic, volatile or non-volatile;
- waxes, such as ozokerite, polyethylene wax, beeswax or carnauba wax,
- silicone elastomers,
- surfactants, preferably emulsifiers, whether nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric,
- co-surfactants, such as linear fatty alcohols,
- thickeners and/or gelling agents,
- humectants, such as polyols such as glycerin,
- colorants, preservatives, fillers,
- the tensors,
- sequestrants,
- the perfumes,
- and mixtures thereof, without this list being exhaustive.
Examples of such adjuvants are cited in particular in the CTFA Dictionary (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook published by the Personal Care Product Council).

Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additional compounds, active or non-active, and their quantity, so that the advantageous properties of the mixture are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition envisaged.

These compositions are intended for use on healthy skin, in particular mature skin or photo-exposed skin, in particular to improve the radiance of the complexion and reduce wrinkles. A subject of the invention is therefore also a cosmetic process for treating the skin for a complexion radiance and/or anti-wrinkle effect, which consists of the topical application to the skin of a healthy person of such a composition.

In order to illustrate the cosmetic effects on healthy skin of active principles comprising at least one extract of bran and germ of Oryza sativa , examples and test results are presented below.

Examples

Example 1: example of active principle according to the invention in liquid form
The active ingredient is obtained by implementing the following steps:
- solubilization in water of bran and germ of Oryza sativa at a rate of 100 g/L,
- two hydrolyses carried out with two different proteases,
- a molecular sorting step, intended to select molecules, in particular peptides, of sizes less than 2000 Da,
- enzymatic inactivation by heat treatment,
- deodorization,
- filtrations and sterilizing filtration.

The active ingredient obtained has the following analytical characteristics:
- a dry matter content: 22.2 g/L
- protein content: 4.1 g/L (18.5%)
- a total sugar content: 8.8 g/L (39%)
- pH: 5.1
- an ash content: 6.3 g/L (28%).
- no anti-radical activity (DPPH test).

The characterization and quantification of the amino acids of the active principle according to example 1 were carried out by liquid chromatography after hydrolysis of the sample. The distribution of the different amino acids is shown in Table 2.

Amino acid name Distribution (%) Alanine 9.6 Arginine 9.6 Aspartic acid 13.5 Glutamic acid 15.4 cystine 0.0 wisteria 5.8 Histidine 0.0 Isoleucine 5.8 Leucine 15.4 Lysine 7.7 Phenylalanine 0.0 Proline 0.0 Serine 7.7 Threonine 5.8 Tyrosine 0.0 Valine 3.8

Example 2: example of active ingredient according to the invention in liquid form
The active ingredient is obtained by a process identical to that of Example 1

The active ingredient obtained has the following analytical characteristics:
- a dry matter rate: 28.2 g/L
- protein content: 5.5 g/L (19.5%)
- a total sugar content: 10.2 g/L (36%)
- a pH: 5.

The peptide characterization of the active principle thus obtained was carried out.

The peptides present in this purified fraction have a molar mass of between 500 and 1100 Da. This corresponds to peptides comprising between 5 and 10 amino acids.

These peptides preferably comprise at least the following amino acids: glycine, glutamine, leucine and valine.

Example 3: example of composition according to the invention

An example of a formulation containing an active principle according to the invention in the form of a creamy cream is presented in the following table 3:

Ingredients % AT Water qsp 100 Butylene glycol 5.00 B Cetearyl alcohol & Ceteareth-33 5.00 Isocetyl stearoyl stearate 3.00 Caprylic/capric triglyceride 7.00 Coco-caprylate/caprate 4.00 Dimethicone 2.00 VS Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer D Active principle according to the invention (example 1) 2.50

The composition of Example 3 can in particular be obtained by the following process:
- place ingredients A with moderate stirring and heating to 80°C
- place ingredients B under magnetic stirring and heating to 80°C
- Under rotor-stator, emulsify ingredients B in ingredients A for 10min,
- At 40° C., with moderate stirring, add the ingredients C then the active principle according to the invention.

The composition is then in the form of a thick, white and shiny emulsion with a pH of between 5.4 and 5.5 and a viscosity of between 55,000 and 65,000 cP.

Example 4: example of composition according to the invention

An example of a formulation containing an active principle according to the invention in the form of a gentle cream is presented in the following table 4:

Ingredients % A1 Water qsp 100 Sucrose Stearate 2.50 A2 Butylene Glycol 3.00 Glycerine 2.00 Xanthan Gum 0.30 B Sucrose Distearate 2.50 Glyceryl Stearate 1.00 Hydrogenated Coconut Oil 2.00 Isononyl Isononanoate 3.00 Isocetyl Isostearate 3.00 Dicaprylyl Carbonate 3.00 Dimethicone 1.00 VS Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Polyisobutene & PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether 1.00 D Active principle according to the invention (example 1) 0.50 E Citric Acid Solution 10% qsp pH Water & Citric Acid qsp pH

The composition according to Example 4 can be obtained after the following steps:
- Place A1 under moderate agitation and heat to 80°C.
- Add A2 to A1 under sustained agitation and agitate until a homogeneous gel is obtained.
- Place B under magnetic stirring and heat to 80°C.
- Under rotor-stator, emulsify B in A for 5 min.
- At 35°C, with gentle stirring, add C then D.
- Homogenize with vigorous stirring for 1 min.
- Adjust the pH between 4.8 and 5.2 with E.

The composition is then in the form of a flexible, white and shiny emulsion with a pH equal to 5 and a viscosity of between 27,000 and 28,500cP.

Example 5 : example of composition according to the invention

An example of a formulation containing an active principle according to the invention in the form of a foundation fluid is presented in the following table 5:

Ingredients % A1

Isododecane 10.00 Isododecane & Disteardimonium Hectorite & Propylene Carbonate 8.00 A2 Lauryl peg-10 tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethicone 6.00 Dimethicone 7.20 Diphenyl Dimethicone/Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer 2.00 B Lauryl peg-10 tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethicone 0.50 Caprylyl Methicone 4.00 Dimethicone 4.00 Ci 77891 (Titanium Dioxide) & Methicone 6.50 Ci 77499 (Iron Oxides) & Methicone 0.10 Ci 77492 (Iron Oxides) & Methicone 1.00 Ci 77491 (Iron Oxides) & Methicone & Ci 77499 (Iron Oxides) 0.30 VS Water q.s. 100 Glycerine 5.00 Pentylene Glycol 2.00 Sodium Chloride 1.00 Active principle according to the invention (example 1) 10.00

The composition according to Example 5 can be obtained after the following steps:
- Homogenize A1 with vigorous stirring.
- Add A2 and stir until homogeneous.
- Grind the pigments from B using a three-cylinder machine and transfer to A. Shake until homogeneous.
- Add C to AB very slowly with vigorous stirring.
- Homogenize for 5 min under shearing agitation.

The composition is then in the form of a fluid emulsion, medium beige with a viscosity of between 8,000 and 15,000 cP.

Example 6: comparative example with compositions outside the invention (HI)

The following products are obtained from rice bran and germ in the same way as for example 1 with the exception of the hydrolysis steps.

The product HI 1 is obtained with the same process as example 1 but without hydrolysis.

The product obtained has the following analytical characteristics:
- A dry matter content of 13.4 g/L
- A carbohydrate content of 6.4 g/L (48%)
- 1.1 g/L of protein by weight of dry matter (8%)
- 6.3 g/L of ash (47%)

The product HI 2 is obtained in the same way as for example 1 with the exception of the hydrolysis which is carried out with a single protease.

The product obtained has the following analytical characteristics:
- A dry matter content of 13.9 g/L
- A carbohydrate content of 6 g/L (43%)
- 2.3 g/L of protein by weight of dry matter (16%)
- 4.8 g/L of ash (34%).

The product HI 3 is obtained in the same way as for example 1 with the exception of the hydrolysis which is carried out with a protease and a carbohydrase.

The product obtained has the following analytical characteristics:
- A dry matter content of 24.6 g/L
- A carbohydrate content of 11.3 g/L (46%)
- 3.1 g/L of protein by weight of dry matter (13%)
- 7.2 g/L of ash (29%).

The product HI 4 is obtained in the same way as for example 1 with the exception of the hydrolysis which is carried out with a carbohydrase.

The product obtained has the following analytical characteristics:
- A dry matter content of 22.9 g/L
- A carbohydrate content of 11.3 g/L (50%)
- 1.4 g/L of protein by weight of dry matter (6%)
- 6.5 g/L of ash (28%).

The product HI 5 is obtained in the same way as for example 1 with the exception of the hydrolysis which is carried out with two proteases and a carbohydrase.

The product obtained has the following analytical characteristics:
- A dry matter content of 32.9 g/L
- A carbohydrate content of 13.7 g/L (42%)
- 6 g/L of protein by weight of dry matter (18%)
- 6.7 g/L of ash (20%).

The product HI 6 is obtained in the same way as for example 1 with the exception of the raw material which is brown rice flour.

The product obtained has the following analytical characteristics:
- A dry matter content of 10 g/L
- A carbohydrate content of 4.8 g/L (48%)
- 2.4 g/L of protein by weight of dry matter (24%)
- 3.9 g/L of ash (39%).

The product HI 7 is obtained in the same way as for example 1 with the exception of the starting material which is a rice protein isolate.

The product obtained has the following analytical characteristics:
- A dry matter content of 35.3 g/L
- A carbohydrate content of 0.77 g/L (2%)
- 28.7 g/L of protein by weight of dry matter (81%)
- 7.8 g/L of ash (22%).

Evaluation of the cosmetic effect of the active ingredient according to the invention

E effect of the active principle according to the invention on the UPR response

The objective of this study is to evaluate the ability of the active ingredient according to the invention to maintain a functional UPR (Unfolded Protein Response) response by stimulating the synthesis of IRE-1α (endoribonuclease inositol-requiring enzyme 1-alpha) and ATF6 (activating transcription factor 6).

The UPR response is an adaptive response initiated as a result of endoplasmic reticulum stress. It is set up from three main transducers located on the membrane of the RE:
- IRE-1α (endoribonuclease inositol-requiring enzyme 1-alpha);
- ATF6 (activating transcription factor 6);
- PERK (protein kinase RNA-like-ER kinase).

Activation of these signaling pathways aims to temporarily reduce de novo protein synthesis and increase the folding and maturation capacities of the endoplasmic reticulum.

The UPR response (cleaved ATF6 and IRE-1α) was evaluated by capillary Western blot on human fibroblasts from young (≤30 years old) and old (≥60 years old) donors and subjected to UVA irradiation.

The protocol is as follows. On D0, the human fibroblasts are seeded and incubated at 37°C. On D1, the fibroblasts are treated for 24 hours with the active principle according to the invention. On D2, the fibroblasts are irradiated by UVA using a Bio-sun irradiation system (Vilber-Lourmat). After irradiation, the fibroblasts are treated again for 24 hours with the active ingredient according to the invention. On D3, the cell extracts are recovered, then stored at -80°C. Protein expression is quantified using the Simple Western™ JESS Capillary Western Blot System and analyzed using Compass software. Total protein in each sample is quantified using a fluorescent marker. The rate of protein of interest corresponds to the ratio protein of interest / total proteins and is expressed in arbitrary units (AU).

The results are given in the table below.

Rate
IRE-1α (UA) Induction of IRE-1α synthesis
/ control irradiated (%) Cleaved ATF6 rate
(AU) Induction of cleaved ATF6 synthesis
/ control irradiated (%) Fibroblasts from young donors Non-irradiated Control 2.94 3.41 Irradiated Witness 7.52 4.54 Fibroblasts from aged donors Unirradiated Control 3.51 2.51 Irradiated Witness 6.17 3.07 Irradiated + Active Principle 0.1% 7.22 +17 3.87 +26 Irradiated + Active Principle 0.5% 8.25 +34 4.05 +32

Tested at 0.5% on fibroblasts from aged donors and subjected to UVA irradiation, the active principle according to the invention significantly induces the synthesis of: IRE-1α by more than 34% and ATF6 cleaved by more than 32%.

The active principle according to the invention thus makes it possible to reactivate the UPR response during ageing.

The second study makes it possible to compare the active ingredient according to the invention and the products outside the invention derived from raw materials other than rice bran and germ or produced by other manufacturing processes. For this, the ability of these different products to maintain a functional UPR response by stimulating the synthesis of IRE-1α is evaluated. This study was carried out on human fibroblasts from elderly donors (≥ 60 years old) and subjected to UVA irradiation.

The protocol is similar to that previously described. On D0, the human fibroblasts are seeded and incubated at 37°C. On D1, the fibroblasts are treated for 24 hours with the active principle according to the invention or with the HI products. On D2, the fibroblasts are irradiated by UVA using a Bio-sun irradiation system (Vilber-Lourmat). After irradiation, the fibroblasts are treated again for 24 hours with the active principle according to the invention or the HI products. On D3, the cell extracts are recovered, then stored at -80°C. Protein expression is quantified using the Simple Western™ JESS Capillary Western Blot System and analyzed using Compass software. Total protein in each sample is quantified using a fluorescent marker. The rate of protein of interest corresponds to the ratio protein of interest / total proteins and is expressed in arbitrary units (AU).

The results are given in Table 7 below.

Induction of IRE1α synthesis
/ control irradiated (%) Irradiated elderly witness Active ingredient according to the invention 0.5% +29 HI product 1 0.5% -5 Product HI 3 0.5% -37 HI product 4 0.5% -13 Product HI 5 0.5% +36 Product HI 6 0.5% -5 Product HI 7 0.5% -5

These results show that tested at 0.5% on fibroblasts from aged donors and subjected to UVA irradiation, only the active principle according to the invention and the product HI 5, that is to say from the process involving two proteases and a carbohydrase from rice bran and germ significantly induce IRE-1α synthesis.

The HI 1 product, i.e. produced in the absence of enzymatic hydrolysis, does not induce the synthesis of IRE-1α. So enzymatic hydrolysis is necessary to obtain the molecules acting on the synthesis of IRE-1α.

The HI 2 product, i.e. produced in the presence of a single protease from rice bran and germ, could not be used to carry out the study. Enzymatic hydrolysis in the presence of a single protease is therefore not sufficient to obtain the active ingredient according to the invention.

The HI 3 product, i.e. produced in the presence of a protease and a carbohydrase from rice bran and germ, does not induce the synthesis of IRE-1α. Therefore, enzymatic hydrolysis must be carried out with two proteases to obtain the molecules acting on the synthesis of IRE-1α.

The HI 4 product, i.e. produced in the presence of a carbohydrase from rice bran and germ, does not induce the synthesis of IRE-1α. Therefore, enzymatic hydrolysis must be carried out in the presence of proteases to obtain the molecules acting on the synthesis of IRE-1α.

The HI 5 product, i.e. produced in the presence of two proteases and a carbohydrase from rice bran and germ, induces the synthesis of IRE-1α. The enzymatic hydrolysis must therefore be carried out in the presence of at least two proteases and the carbohydrates present in the active principle according to the invention are therefore not the molecules acting on the synthesis of IRE-1α.

HI 6 from rice flour and HI 7 from rice protein isolate do not induce IRE-1α synthesis. Therefore, the molecules acting on the synthesis of IRE-1α are specific to rice bran and germ.

E effect of the active principle according to the invention on the endoplasmic reticulum

The objective of this study is to evaluate the capacity of the active principle according to the invention to limit the stress of the endoplasmic reticulum (ER) in aged human fibroblasts following irradiation by UVA rays.

ER stress was assessed by labeling the ER with a fluorescent probe on aged human fibroblasts (≥ 60 years old) and subjected to UVA irradiation.

The protocol is as follows. On D0, the human fibroblasts are seeded and incubated at 37°C. On D1, the fibroblasts are treated for 24 hours with the active principle according to the invention. On D2, the fibroblasts are irradiated by UVA using a Bio-sun irradiation system (Vilber-Lourmat). After irradiation, the fibroblasts are treated again for 24 hours with the active principle according to the invention. On D3, the fibroblasts are recovered and labeled with the ER-Tracker Blue-White DPX probe (Invitrogen) according to the supplier's instructions. Visualization is performed using a confocal microscope LSM700 (Zeiss), coupled to a Zen Blue image analysis system (Zeiss).

The level of ER stress is proportional to the intensity of fluorescence present in the cells. Quantitative image analysis was performed using Matlab® software. The average fluorescence intensity per cell is expressed in arbitrary units (AU).

The results are given in Table 8 below.

ES stress
(x 10 ³ AU) Ability to limit ER stress (%) Fibroblasts from aged non-irradiated donors Witness 40 Fibroblasts from irradiated aged donors Witness 202 Active ingredient according to the invention 0.1% 184 -11 Active ingredient according to the invention 0.5% 155 -29 Active ingredient according to the invention 1.0% 148 -33

Tested at 0.5% and 1.0% on fibroblasts from aged donors, the active principle according to the invention reduces by 29% and 33% respectively the stress of the ER induced by UVA irradiation. The active principle according to the invention thus preserves the health of the endoplasmic reticulum during ageing.

E effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on inflammation

The objective of this study is to evaluate the ability of the active ingredient according to the invention to limit inflammation following UVA irradiation.

For this study, the following parameters were analyzed on human fibroblasts from elderly donors (≥60 years old) and subjected to UVA irradiation:
- the expression of the interleukins IL-1α and IL-1β and of IL-8 was evaluated by quantitative PCR;
- IL-8 secretion was evaluated by ELISA assay.

A. Analysis of the expression of IL-1α , IL-1β and IL8 by human fibroblasts

The study protocol is as follows. On D0, the human fibroblasts are seeded and incubated at 37°C. On D1, the fibroblasts are treated for 24 hours with the active ingredient according to the invention. On D2, the fibroblasts are irradiated by UVA using a Bio-sun irradiation system (Vilber-Lourmat). After irradiation, the fibroblasts are treated again with the active ingredient according to the invention. On D3, the fibroblasts are recovered and the total RNA extracted.

The RNAs were reverse-transcribed and the complementary DNAs obtained were analyzed by the quantitative PCR technique. The mRNAs of the reference control proteins were analyzed in parallel with the mRNAs of IL1A (interleukin 1α), IL1B (interleukin 1β) and CXCL8 (interleukin 8).

Fluorescence incorporation is measured continuously using a thermal cycler. Ct (relative quantification) analysis is performed using the software.

B. Analysis of IL-8 secretion by human fibroblasts

On D0, the human fibroblasts are seeded and incubated at 37°C. On D1, the fibroblasts are treated for 24 hours with the active ingredient according to the invention. On D2, the fibroblasts are irradiated by UVA using a Bio-sun irradiation system (Vilber-Lourmat). After irradiation, the fibroblasts are treated again with the active principle according to the invention. On D4, the culture supernatants are recovered and the IL-8 assay is performed using an ELISA kit (R&D Systems).

The results of the study of the expression of IL-1A IL1-B and CXCL8 are given in the table below.

Expression of IL-1A (%) Ability to limit IL-1A expression (%) Expression of IL-1B (%) Ability to limit IL-1B expression (%) Expression of CXCL8 (%) Ability to limit CXCL8 expression (%) Fibroblasts from aged non-irradiated donors Witness 100 100 100 Fibroblasts from irradiated aged donors Witness 457 372 1090 Active ingredient according to the invention 0.1% 310 -41 296 -28 591 -50 Active ingredient according to the invention 0.5% 249 -58 240 -49 382 -72

The results of the IL-8 secretion study are given in the table below.

IL-8 level
(pg/mg protein) Ability to limit IL-8 secretion (%) Fibroblasts from aged non-irradiated donors Witness 1978 Fibroblasts from irradiated aged donors Witness 4072 Active principle according to the invention 0.5% 2807 -60 Active ingredient according to the invention 1.0% 2496 -75

Tested at 0.5% on fibroblasts from aged donors and subjected to UVA irradiation, the active principle according to the invention significantly reduces the expression of the genes coding for IL-1α and β and IL-8 of respectively 58%, 49% and 72%. The active principle according to the invention also significantly reduces the secretion of IL-8 by 75%. The active principle according to the invention thus limits the inflammation generated by UVA radiation.

E effect of the active principle according to the invention on the extracellular matrix

The objective of this study is to evaluate the ability of the active ingredient according to the invention to promote the production of a functional matrix network.

For this study, the following parameters were analyzed on human fibroblasts from elderly donors (≥60 years old) and subjected to UVA irradiation:
- the expression of collagen IV (COL4A1) and fibronectin (FN1) was evaluated by quantitative PCR;
- the secretion of pro-metalloproteinase (pro-MMP-1) was evaluated by ELISA assay;
- the synthesis of perlecan and of the collagen I network was studied by immunofluorescence.

AT. Analysis of the expression of COL4A1 and FN1 by human fibroblasts

The protocol is as follows. On D0, the human fibroblasts are seeded and incubated at 37°C. On D1, the fibroblasts are treated for 24 hours with the active ingredient according to the invention. On D2, the fibroblasts are irradiated by UVA rays (15J/cm2) using a Bio-sun irradiation system (Vilber-Lourmat). After irradiation, the fibroblasts are treated again with the active principle according to the invention. Then, the fibroblasts are recovered and the total RNAs extracted.

The RNAs were reverse-transcribed and the complementary DNAs obtained were analyzed by the quantitative PCR technique. The mRNAs of the proteins, reference controls, were analyzed in parallel with the mRNAs of the markers studied. Fluorescence incorporation is measured continuously using a thermal cycler. Ct (relative quantification) analysis is performed using the software.

B. Study of the synthesis of perlecan and of the collagen I network by human fibroblasts

On D0, the human fibroblasts are seeded and incubated at 37°C. On D1, the fibroblasts are treated for 24 hours with the active ingredient according to the invention. On D2, the fibroblasts are irradiated by UVA using a Bio-sun irradiation system (Vilber-Lourmat). After irradiation, the fibroblasts are treated again with the active ingredient according to the invention. On D4, the synthesis of perlecan and the formation of the collagen I network are analyzed by immunofluorescence.

Visualization is carried out using a microscope coupled to a camera and an image analysis system. The synthesis of perlecan or the formation of the collagen I network is proportional to the intensity of fluorescence present on the images. Quantitative image analysis was performed using Matlab® software. The results are expressed in arbitrary units (AU).

vs. Analysis of pro-MMP secretion - 1 by human fibroblasts

On D0, the human fibroblasts are seeded and incubated at 37°C. On D1, the fibroblasts are treated for 24 hours with the active ingredient according to the invention. On D2, the fibroblasts are irradiated by UVA using a Bio-sun irradiation system (Vilber-Lourmat). After irradiation, the fibroblasts are treated again with the active ingredient according to the invention. On D4, the culture supernatants are recovered and the pro-MMP-1 assay is carried out using an ELISA kit.

The results of the study of the expression of COL4A1 and FN1 are given in the table below.

Expression of COL4A1 (%) Ability to maintain COL4A1 expression (%) Expression of FN1 (%) Ability to maintain FN1 expression (%) Fibroblasts from aged non-irradiated donors Witness 100 100 Fibroblasts from aged non-irradiated donors Witness 45 30 Active ingredient according to the invention 0.1% 62 +31 47 +24 Active ingredient according to the invention 0.5% 66 +38 61 +44

Tested at 0.5% on fibroblasts from aged donors and subjected to UVA irradiation, the active principle according to the invention significantly restores the expression of collagen IV (COL4A1) by more than 38% and fibronectin (FN1) by more by 44%.

The results of the study of the synthesis of perlecan and the formation of the collagen I network are given in tables 12 and 13 below.

Synthesis of perlecan
(x 10 ³ AU) Ability to stimulate perlecan synthesis (%) Fibroblasts from aged non-irradiated donors Witness 4716 Fibroblasts from irradiated aged donors Witness 2008 Active ingredient according to the invention 0.1% 2775 +38 Active principle according to the invention 0.5% 2845 +42

Synthesis of collagen network I
(x 10 ⁴ AU) Ability to stimulate the synthesis of collagen I network (%) Fibroblasts from aged non-irradiated donors Witness 2805 Fibroblasts from irradiated aged donors Witness 1252 Active ingredient according to the invention 0.1% 1718 +37

The results of the pro-MMP-1 secretion study are given in Table 14.

Pro-MMP-1 level
(ng/mg protein) Ability to limit the secretion of
pro-MMP-1 (%) Fibroblasts from aged non-irradiated donors Witness 100 Fibroblasts from irradiated aged donors Witness 833 Active principle according to the invention 0.5% 632 -27 Active ingredient according to the invention 1.0% 47 -48

The active ingredient according to the invention also significantly increases the production of perlecan (+42%) and the formation of the collagen I network (+37%) and limits the secretion of pro-MMP-1 (-48%).

The active principle according to the invention thus preserves the dermis from the deleterious effects of ageing.

E effect of the active principle according to the invention on the radiance of the complexion

The objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo, in comparison with a placebo, the effect of the active principle according to the invention formulated at 2.5% in emulsion, on the radiance of the complexion of the skin in volunteers. Asians.

The panel is made up of 65 healthy volunteers, female, aged 49 to 61 (average age 54 ± 3 years), photoexposed and presenting a wrinkle stage between 3 and 5. This study was carried out on two groups of volunteers one having applied the active principle according to the invention and the other, the placebo on the entire face.

The radiance of the complexion was evaluated before and after 28 and 56 days of twice-daily applications.

The results corresponding to the effect of the active principle according to the invention on the radiance of the complexion evaluated by a dermatologist are presented in table 15

Variation / D0 (%) Change/Placebo (%) D28 Placebo +9 Active principle according to the invention +37 +27 J56 Placebo +22 Active principle according to the invention +54 +32

Thus, under the conditions of this study, after 28 and 56 days of twice-daily applications and in comparison with the placebo, the active principle according to the invention formulated at 2.5% in emulsion significantly improves the radiance of the complexion by 27%. This effect continues and intensifies after 56 days of treatment to achieve a significant improvement of 32% in the radiance of the complexion. The result was observed in 91% of the volunteers who used the active principle according to the invention.

The results corresponding to the effect of the active principle according to the invention on the shine of the skin measured using a Skin-glossymeter are presented in table 16

Variation / D0 (%) Change/Placebo (%) D28 Placebo +4 Active principle according to the invention +8 +4 J56 Placebo +4 Active principle according to the invention +15 +10

After 28 days of twice-daily applications and in comparison with the placebo, the active principle according to the invention formulated at 2.5% in emulsion significantly improves the shine of the skin measured using a skin-glossymeter by 4%. This effect is prolonged and intensified after 56 days of treatment, where a significant improvement of 10% is observed. The result was observed in 97% of the subjects of the group having tested the active principle according to the invention.

Under the conditions of this study, after 56 days of twice-daily applications and in comparison with the placebo, the active principle according to the invention formulated at 2.5% in emulsion therefore significantly improves the radiance of the complexion of Asian skin.

Effect of the active principle according to the invention on the quality of the dermal matrix

The objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo , the effect of the active principle according to the invention formulated at 2.5% in emulsion, on the quality of the dermal matrix, in comparison with the placebo, in Caucasian volunteers.

The panel is composed of 18 healthy volunteers, female, aged 60 to 78 years (mean age 69 ± 4 years), photoexposed and presenting an altered dermal matrix on the face. This study was carried out on volunteers who had applied the active principle according to the invention and the placebo on the half-face, twice daily for 56 days.

The state of the dermis was studied in the cheeks by LC-OCT (Damae Medical, France), before and after 56 days of twice-daily applications. This device provides images that reveal in real time and non-invasively a global structural organization of living skin tissues at the cellular level. From the 3D acquisitions in front, a sub-volume of 70 consecutive images from the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) was selected and subsequently analyzed.

Beforehand, a modeling study was set up to understand the evolution of the quality of the dermal matrix during aging and photoaging. This modeling made it possible to establish statistically the volume of dermis impacted in photoexposed elderly subjects.

AT. Study of the impact of aging and photoexposure on the quality of the dermal matrix

This study was carried out on 3 groups of volunteers (young, elderly not photoexposed, elderly photoexposed). A convolutional neural network model was developed to predict the dermis quality score from the selected images. These matrix quality scores were analyzed for each of the 3 groups on the different layers of the dermis.

The comparison of the average quality stage of the matrix between the 3 groups is presented in Table 17.

Average score Variation / Group A (%) Variation / Group B (%) Group A
Young subjects 2.62 Group B
Elderly subjects not photoexposed 2.16 -18 Group C
Photoexposed aged subjects 1.80 -17

This study shows that the non-photoexposed elderly group presents a significant decrease of 18% in the quality of the dermal matrix compared to the young group.

In addition, the photoexposed elderly group showed a significant decrease of 17% in matrix quality compared to the non-photoexposed elderly group. These data thus confirm the impact of chronological aging and that of photoaging on the quality of the dermal matrix.

B. Study of the level of alteration of the dermal matrix in photoexposed elderly subjects.

The purpose of this second stage of modeling was to statistically determine in photoexposed elderly subjects, an alteration zone within 70 microns in order to accurately observe the volume impacted by photoaging.

The delimitation between the altered and unaltered zone was obtained by applying the sliding window method to each profile of the dermal matrix. This consists of statistically comparing a fixed window of scores made up of the last 10 layers with a sliding window starting at the JDE (depth 0) and sliding every micron. The volume of the sliding window is considered altered as long as the difference with that of the fixed window is significant.

The results of this analysis are presented in Table 16

Variation / D0 (%) Change/Placebo (%) Placebo 0 Active principle according to the invention 20 +20

This analysis revealed an average thickness volume of 53 µm under the JDE where the dermis is significantly more altered. The effect of the active principle according to the invention is therefore tested on this thickness of 50 μm.

Effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on the quality of the dermal matrix on a Caucasian panel

A summary of the results corresponding to the effect of the active principle according to the invention, on the quality of the dermal matrix measured by LC-OCT, is presented in Figure 1.

The illustration shows the appearance of the dermal matrix of the volunteer, before and after 56 days of twice-daily application of the active principle according to the invention, at a depth of 20 μm under the JDE is presented in (D0, before treatment) and (D56, after 56 days of treatment).

After 56 days of twice-daily application, the active principle according to the invention, formulated at 2.5%, significantly improves the quality of the dermis of Caucasian volunteers by 20% in comparison with the placebo.

An improvement was observed in all volunteers. The dermis thus reinforced, limits the slackening of the skin.

Anti-wrinkle effects of the active ingredient according to the invention

The objective of this study is to evaluate in vivo, the anti-wrinkle effect of the active principle according to the invention formulated at 2.5% in emulsion, in comparison with a placebo, in Caucasian and Asian volunteers whose panel is identical to that previously described for the evaluation of the active ingredient on the quality of the dermal matrix.

AT. Study by visual scoring on digital photographs on a Caucasian panel

A summary of the results corresponding to the effect of the active principle according to the invention on the evolution of the stage of wrinkles evaluated on the crow's feet area by visual scoring on digital photographs, in comparison with the placebo, is presented in the table 17 and the .

Variation / D0 (%) Change/Placebo (%) Placebo +3 Active principle according to the invention -9 -12

Under the conditions of this study, after 56 days of twice-daily application on the half-face and in comparison with the placebo, the active principle according to the invention formulated at 2.5% in emulsion significantly reduces the stage of wrinkles on the paws of goose of 12% Caucasian volunteers.

This result was observed in 67% of the volunteers.

B. Study by visual scoring on digital photographs on an Asian panel

A summary of the results corresponding to the effect of the active principle according to the invention on the evolution of the stage of wrinkles evaluated on the area of the nasolabial fold by visual scoring on digital photographs, in comparison with the placebo, is presented in the table 18 and Table 19

Variation / D0 (%) Change/Placebo (%) D28 Placebo -4 Active principle according to the invention -10 -6 J56 Placebo -5 Active principle according to the invention -14 -9

No improvement Improvement D28 Placebo 88 12 Active principle according to the invention 61 39 J56 Placebo 75 25 Active principle according to the invention 42 58

Under the conditions of this study, from 28 days of twice-daily application to the entire face of Asian volunteers, in comparison with the placebo, the active principle according to the invention formulated at 2.5% in emulsion significantly reduces the stage of wrinkles of the nasolabial fold by 6%.

This effect continues after 56 days of treatment to reach a significant reduction of 9%. This result was observed in 67% of the volunteers.

Claims (14)

Cosmetic active principle comprising at least one extract of Oryza sativa , characterized in that the said extract is obtained from bran and germ of Oryza sativa . Cosmetic active principle according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the said extract comprises between 12% and 36% of peptides by weight of dry matter of the extract. Cosmetic active principle according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the said peptides have a molar mass of less than 2000 Da. Cosmetic active principle according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the said peptides have a molar mass of between 500 and 1100 Da. Cosmetic active principle according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the peptides present in the extract comprise between 5 and 10 amino acids. Cosmetic active principle according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the said peptides mainly comprise glycine, glutamine, leucine and valine. Active principle according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is a hydrolyzate. Active principle according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is an enzymatic hydrolyzate. Cosmetic active principle according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said extract is capable of being obtained by an extraction process comprising at least two enzymatic hydrolyses of bran and Oryza sativa germ. Cosmetic active principle according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in liquid form or in solid form. Cosmetic composition for topical application comprising at least one active principle according to one of the preceding claims and a physiologically acceptable medium. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, in which the active principle represents at least 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic use of an active principle according to one of Claims 1 to 10 or of a cosmetic composition according to one of Claims 11 or 12, for an anti-aging effect. Cosmetic use according to the preceding claim for an anti-wrinkle effect and/or for improving the radiance of the complexion.