FR3110840A1 - COMPOSITION FOR TAKING CARE OF AND / OR MAKE-UP OF KERATIN-BASED MATERIALS - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition for taking care of and/or making up keratinous materials The present invention relates to a composition for caring for and/or making up keratinous materials, in particular the skin, comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition (i) from 0.01% by weight to 4% by weight of at least one white particle having a volume average size (D50) of less than 25 μm, (ii) from 0.01% by weight to 4% by weight of at least one yellow pearlescent pigment having a volume average size (D50) of less than 25 μm, and (iii) from 0.01% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one red pearlescent pigment having a volume average size (D50) of less than 25 μm. The present invention also relates to a method for taking care of the skin, comprising the application to the skin of the composition according to the present invention. Figure for the abstract:

Description

COMPOSITION TO CARE FOR AND/OR MAKE UP KERATINOUS MATERIALS

The present invention relates to a composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for and/or making up keratinous materials, in particular the skin.

Background art

Skin produces less collagen and elastin as it ages. For example, after twenty years, a person produces about 1 percent less collagen in the skin each year. As a result, the skin becomes thinner and more fragile. Inevitably, wrinkles, crow's feet, age spots, eye bags, dark circles, skin discoloration, and the like begin to form.

For example, there are in particular in many individuals more or less extensive regions of very variable shapes which are relatively delimited or of gradual intensity, which have an intrinsic redder, more bluish or purplish, browner or more gray than the complexion of the adjacent regions, the cheekbones or the temples, or appear darker than the regions which surround them. This is what contributes to the notion of skin dyschromia, especially dark circles.

Consumers often want to improve the appearance of such age-related skin imperfections, preferably with instant results.

The development of formulations dedicated to skincare is ongoing. A wide variety of compositions are used to care for and/or make up the skin, for example, to correct dyschromia of the skin and to lighten the complexion.

The prior art describes the use of composite platelet pigments (for example: mica/titanium, mica/titanium/iron oxide, mica/titanium/silica, mica/titanium/tin, etc.) and transparent pigments in compositions aimed to correct dyschromia of the skin (document WO2004/045524); or the use of interference pigments (documents WO01/51017, US 5,690,916) and/or metal oxide (document US2005079190) or composite particles containing metal oxides (document EP 1785 129) aimed at correcting dyschromia.

However, the compositions of the prior art are not entirely satisfactory in terms of effect, such as correcting dyschromia of the skin, or in sensory terms, such as looking natural after application.

Consequently, there remains the need to develop a specific composition for taking care of and/or making up the skin, which in itself makes it possible to achieve a significant reduction in the visibility of the dyschromia of the skin while maintaining in the same time, a natural look.

More specifically, there remains the need to develop a specific composition for taking care of and/or making up the skin around the eyes, which makes it possible to achieve a significant reduction in the visibility of dark circles, in particular for consumers aged 20 to 40, while maintaining a natural look.

The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate such compositions having the desired properties as described above.

Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for taking care of and/or making up keratinous materials, in particular the skin, comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition

(i) from 0.01% by weight to 4% by weight of at least one white particle having a volume average size (D50) of less than 25 μm ,

(ii) from 0.01% by weight to 4% by weight of at least one yellow pearlescent pigment having a volume average size (D50) of less than 25 μm, and

(iii) from 0.01% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one red pearlescent pigment having a volume average size (D50) of less than 25 μm.

The composition of the present invention is suitable for typical application to keratinous materials, in particular the skin, in particular the skin of the face and/or the skin around the eyes, so as to cover wrinkles, crow's feet, skin spots old age, bags under the eyes, and/or dark circles.

In particular, the composition of the present invention can be applied to the skin around the eyes to cover dark circles of the blue/green type, which often appear on the skin around the eyes of consumers between the ages of 20 and 40.

Thus, according to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a process for taking care of and/or making up keratinous materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratinous materials of the composition according to the present invention.

Upon application of the composition of the present invention, the instant effect can be perceived by consumers, at the same time the appearance looks natural.

Other features, elements, characteristics and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following detailed description of preferred embodiments of the present invention.

Brief description of figures

The present invention can be better understood on reading the following detailed description, and with reference to the accompanying drawing, in which:

[Fig. 1] Figure 1 shows the results of coverage on the eyelid and visibility of dark circles during an application of the compositions of inventive formulas (Inv.) 1, 2 and 4 as well as of the comparative formula (Comp.) 1.

Detailed description of the invention

In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between... and" and "from... to...".

In addition, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

Throughout the present application, the term "comprising" must be interpreted as including all the features specifically mentioned as well as those optional, additional ones not specified. As used herein, use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “skin” is understood to cover human skin. Human skin, in particular the skin of the face, neck, back or other body parts, more particularly, the skin of the face and the skin around the eyes is considered according to the present invention.

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. Where the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs, the definition described herein shall apply.

Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing an amount of ingredients and the like that are used in the description and claims are to be understood as modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which may be changed according to the desired purpose if necessary.

The composition of the present invention may be in a pharmaceutical form chosen from suspensions, dispersions, gels, serums, fluid or solid emulsions, solid, liquid or pasty anhydrous products, loose or compacted powders, cast, molded and extruded forms.

The term "solid" as used herein means that the composition has such a hardness that it does not flow at room temperature under its own weight, as opposed to compositions which are referred to as fluid.

particular are white are

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one white particle having a volume average size (D50) of less than 25 μm.

The term "white" is understood to designate particles of white color and their derivatives (whitish, alabaster white, etc.), as opposed to primary colors and derivatives.

In some embodiments, the white particles used are inorganic particles.

In particular, white particles have an L* lightness value close to 100 in the CIELab76 system.

Preferably, the white particles have a volume average size (D50) in the range of 0.3 to 10 µm.

Volume average size (D50) is a particle size distribution parameter, referring to the maximum particle diameter below which 50% of the sample volume exists (see “A Basic Guide To Particle Characterization”, page 10, published by Malvern Instruments Limited in 2012).

The volume average size (D50) of the particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle sizer such as the MasterSizer 3000 machine from Malvern. Data are processed according to Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is particularly described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., “Light Scattering by Small Particles,” chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

The white particles according to the present invention have a continuous effect, which is controlled by the resolving ability of the eye. Since said capacity is approximately 40 μm, particles having a volume-average size (D50) of less than 8 μm, preferably less than 5 μm and even better still less than or equal to 3 μm are therefore considered. However, it is ensured that particles whose D50 is greater than 0.3 μm and preferably 0.5 μm are included, so as not to have too great a loss of opacity, which would be extremely detrimental to the desired effect.

Thus, the composition of the present invention preferably comprises at least one white particle having a volume average size (D50) of less than 10 μm, preferably between 0.3 μm and 8 μm, more preferably between 0.3 µm and 6 µm, and most preferably between 0.5 and 6 µm.

These particles can be made of a material or otherwise be composites. For example, these particles can be chosen from boron nitride, silica, mica, synthetic mica, or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the white particles are boron nitride particles.

The white particles are advantageously boron nitride particles, preferably having a volume-average size (D50) of 0.5 to 6 μm.

Preferably, the white particles according to the present invention have an average refractive index between 1.4 and 2.2. This stems from the fact that, if the particle has a refractive index above 2.2, the opacity of the composition is too high, and if this index is below 1.4, the clarifying effect does not is not enough. The average refractive index is defined as the sum of the refractive indices weighted by the weight content in the particle.

By way of example of particles, mention may be made of boron nitride particles, such as PUHP1030L from Saint Gobain Ceramics and UHP-1010 from Carborundum.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, use will be made of boron nitride particles having a volume-average size (D50) of less than 6 μm, such as the boron nitride particles sold under the name PUHP1030L by Saint Gobain Ceramics, having a volume average size (D50) of 3 µm.

Advantageously, the white particles are present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

pearl pigment

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one yellow pearlescent pigment and at least one red pearlescent pigment.

The term "pearlescent pigments", which may also be called "nacres", should be understood to mean colored particles of any shape, which may or may not be iridescent, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shells, or alternatively synthesized , and which have a color effect via optical interference.

Preferably the pearlescent pigment has a volume average size (D50) in the range of 1 to 20 µm, preferably in the range of 5 to 15 µm.

Preferably the pearlescent pigment has a volume average size (D90) in the range of 1 to 25 µm, preferably in the range of 5 to 20 µm.

The volume average size (D90) is a parameter for the particle size distribution, referring to the maximum particle diameter below which 90% of the sample volume exists.

The pearl pigment of limited particle size and color reflection can contribute to color correction of keratinous substance such as skin by mixing the color reflection with the original color of keratinous substance, and looks natural.

The pearlescent pigment can be in any form. For example, it is possible to use a pearlescent pigment in the form of a plate with an aspect ratio of at least 5, preferably more than 10, more preferably more than 20, and even more preferably more than 50. The aspect ratio can be determined by the average thickness and the average length according to the formula: aspect ratio = length/thickness.

If a plate-like particle is used for the pearlescent pigment, it is preferable that the plate-like particle has a length of 15 μm or less, preferably 12 μm or less, and more preferably 10 μm or less.

Examples of the pearlescent pigment that may be mentioned include pearlescent iron oxide coated titanium mica, bismuth oxychloride coated mica, chromium oxide coated titanium mica, bismuth oxychloride pearlescent pigments , mica coated with titanium dioxide and iron oxides, mica coated with titanium dioxide, and mica coated with titanium dioxide and tin oxide. It can also be particles of mica on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic dyes are superimposed.

It may be preferred that the pearlescent pigment comprises mica and metal oxide, preferably titanium oxide, iron oxides, and/or tin oxide.

Pearl pigment can have reflection with color such as blue, yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and copper.

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises from 0.01% by weight to 4% by weight of at least one yellow pearl pigment, based on the total weight of the composition.

The yellow pearl pigment can show a yellow reflection on a black background. Here, the term "yellow" means visible light with a wavelength of about 577 nm to about 597 nm.

As illustrations of yellow pearlescent pigment that can be introduced into the composition according to the present invention, mention can be made of TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE (and) TIN OXIDE sold by the company JOINT COLOR GROUP, and DIOXIDE TITANIUM (and) MICA (and) IRON OXIDES sold under the names of CANDURIN GOLD SHEEN by Merck.

Advantageously, the yellow pearlescent pigment is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight. weight to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises from 0.01% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one red pearlescent pigment, based on the total weight of the composition.

The red pearlescent pigment may show a red reflection on a black background. Here, the term "red" means visible light with a wavelength of about 640 nm to about 780 nm.

As illustrations of red pearlescent pigment that can be introduced into the composition according to the present invention, mention can be made of TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) MICA sold under the name RONASTAR MAGIC RED by the company MERCK.

Advantageously, the red pearlescent pigment is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 0.8% by weight, more preferably from 0.15 % by weight to 0.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Yellow pearl pigment and red pearl pigment of limited particle size and colored reflection can contribute to color correction of keratinous substance such as skin by mixing the colored reflection with original color of keratinous substance , and a natural look.

Within the meaning of the present invention, preferably, the weight ratio of the white particles to the yellow pearlescent pigment is from 1:1 to 1:4.

Optionally, the composition according to the present invention comprises another pearl pigment in addition to the yellow pearl pigment and the red pearl pigment.

Aqueous phase

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.

Said aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount ranging from 10% to 99% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 90% by weight, and even more preferably from 50% to 85% by weight of the total weight. of composition.

Water is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 80% by weight, preferably from 5% to 77% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 75% by weight. , based on the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase may comprise water, at least one water-miscible organic solvent or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the hydrophilic phase comprises at least one organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25° C.) such as, for example, monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (in particular having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tri-propylene glycol alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) ethers, mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol alkyl ( C ₁ to C ₄ ) ethers and mixtures thereof.

The hydrophilic phase of the composition of the present invention may comprise water and a polyol, preferably glycerol or propylene glycol, or a monoalcohol, preferably ethanol.

In a particular embodiment, the composition of the present invention is oil-free.

Within the meaning of the invention, the expression “oil-free” means a composition comprising a single liquid phase which is an aqueous phase (a liquid phase including water).

Fat phase

In certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention is in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, and comprises a dispersed fatty phase comprising at least one oil.

The term “oil” is understood to refer to any fatty substance that is in the form at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.

The oil can be chosen from volatile and non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, of the silicone or fluoro type. Oils can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

The expression “volatile oil” is intended to designate an oil (or a non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at room temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^-3 to 300 mmHg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg ).

In addition, the volatile oil generally has a boiling point, measured at atmospheric pressure, ranging from 150°C to 260°C, and preferably ranging from 170°C to 250°C.

Advantageously, the fatty phase comprises from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% by weight to 20% by weight, and preferably ranging from 3% by weight to 15% by weight, of oil(s) ) volatile(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

The expression "hydrocarbon-based oil" is intended to denote an oil formed essentially of, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atom; it may contain ester, ether, amine and/or amide groups.

The expression “silicone oil” is intended to denote an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si—O groups.

The expression “fluorinated oil” is intended to denote an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

Volatile oils

The volatile oil can be a hydrocarbon or silicone based oil. In particular, use will be made of a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil which may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having a flash point ranging from 40°C to 102°C, preferably ranging from 40°C to 55°C, and preferably ranging from 40°C to 50°C.

As volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms which are linear or branched, and their mixtures, and in particular C ₈ to C ₁₆ alkanes branched, such as C ₈ to C ₁₆ isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, the undecane/tridecane mixtures as described in application WO2008/155059, dodecane, tetradecane and their mixtures, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permetyl, branched C ₈ to C ₁₆ esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based volatile oil is chosen from hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, which are linear or branched.

Non-volatile oils

The non-volatile oil(s) may (may) be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion, and preferably ranging from 1% by weight to 15% by weight.

The non-volatile oil can be chosen from carbon-based, hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based and/or fluorinated oils of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof, as long as they are compatible with the intended use.

Mention may be made of oils based on non-volatile hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum jelly, isoeicosan, soybean oil, perhydrosqualene, sweet almond oil, Canophyllum inophyllum oil, palm oil , grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, apricot oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil or cereal germ oil; esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid; fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate , myristate or 2-octyldodecyl lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl triisostearate or diglyceryl triisostearate; carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, ethers, such as dicaprylyl ether, higher fatty acids, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; higher fatty alcohols, such as cetanol, stearyl or oleyl alcohol, linoleyl or linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol.

In certain preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is a transparent emulsion, which comprises at least one oil chosen from liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ to C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of monoalcohols or C ₁ to C ₂₆ aliphatic polyalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

A composition of the present invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase in a content ranging from 1% by weight to 50% by weight, in particular from 2% by weight to 35%, and more particularly from 5% by weight to 25% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Surfactants

In certain preferred embodiments, in order to obtain a transparent emulsion, in particular a transparent oil-in-water emulsion, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one surfactant.

Preferably, at least one surfactant includes a polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester and/or a glyceryl ester as the nonionic surfactant.

Examples of polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester that may be mentioned include (INCI name) PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-6 Oleate, PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-12 Isostearate, PEG-12 Diisostearate, PEG-8 Isostearate , PEG-8 Diisostearate, PEG-10 Isostearate; PEG-100 stearate, and the like.

Examples of glyceryl ester that may be mentioned include glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate (or glyceryl stearate), glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, or mixtures thereof.

In certain preferred embodiments, the surfactant is glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate.

If present, the surfactant is preferably present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 7% by weight , and more preferably from 1% by weight to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Additives

The compositions of the present invention may also contain a conventional additive, such as perfumes, preservatives, thickeners, organic or mineral, physical or chemical sunscreen, sequestering agents, antioxidants, insoluble, fat-soluble or water-soluble active agents, humectants such as polyol and in particular glycerol, pH adjusters (acids or bases), active agents extracted from plants or resulting from biotechnology, mineral active agents, or tensor agents.

These additives are generally used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 10% of the total weight of the final composition.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention relates an eye concealer product, comprising in an aqueous phase, based on the total weight of the composition:

(i) from 0.5% by weight to 2% by weight of boron nitride having a volume average size (D50) of 0.5 µm to 6 µm ,

(ii) from 1% by weight to 2.5% by weight of at least one yellow pearlescent pigment having a volume average size (D50) of 5 to 15 µm, and

(iii) from 0.15% by weight to 0.6% by weight of at least one red pearlescent pigment having a volume average size (D50) of 5 to 15 µm.

In one embodiment, the eye concealer product is a hydrogel, including a clear hydrogel.

In one embodiment, the eye concealer product is an oil-in-water emulsion, including a clear oil-in-water emulsion.

Method and use

According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a process for taking care of and/or making up keratinous materials, in particular the skin, comprising an application to the keratinous materials of the composition according to the present invention.

In certain embodiments, the present invention provides a concealer method, comprising application to the skin around the eyes of the composition according to the present invention.

When applying the composition of the present invention, the instantaneous effect can be perceived by consumers, at the same time the appearance looks natural.

The method of the present invention is very effective for consumers between the ages of 20 and 40 with blue/green dark circles.

The invention will now be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples.

EXAMPLES

Example 1

Concealer compositions were prepared in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to inventive formulas (inv.) 1 and 2 and comparative formulas (comp.) 1 and 2 according to the amounts given in Tables 1 and 2 below. The amounts are given in % by weight of the total composition.

Phase INCI NAME Inv. 1 Comp. 1 Comp. 2 % in weight AT SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.11 0.11 0.11 B GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE (TEGO CARE 180 MB from EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) 2.1 2.1 2.1 AT WATER QS100 QS100 QS100 AT GLYCERIN 9 9 9 AT ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER (PEMULEN TR-2 POLYMER from LUBRIZOL) 0.15 0.15 0.15 B ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 7.50 7.50 7.50 VS TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) MICA (and) IRON OXIDES (CADURIN GOLD SHEEN from Merck) 1 1 0 VS TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) MICA (RONASTAR MAGIC RED from MERCK) 0.5 0.5 0.5 VS BORON NITRIDE (BORON NITRIDE POWDER TRES BN PUHP 3002 from SAINT GOBAIN CERAMICS) 1 0 1 VS POLYSILICONE-11 (GRANSIL RPS-D6 from GRANT INDUSTRIES) 5 5 5

Phase INCI NAME Inv. 2 % in weight AT SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.11 B GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE (TEGO CARE 180 MB from EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) 2.1 AT WATER 72.96 AT GLYCERIN 9 AT ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER (PEMULEN TR-2 POLYMER from LUBRIZOL) 0.15 B ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 7.50 VS TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) MICA (and) IRON OXIDES (CANDURIN GOLD SHEEN from Merck) 1.5 VS TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) MICA (RONASTAR MAGIC RED from MERCK) 0.25 VS BORON NITRIDE (BORON NITRIDE POWDER TRES BN PUHP 3002 from SAINT GOBAIN CERAMICS) 0.5 VS POLYSILICONE-11 (GRANSIL RPS-D6 from GRANT INDUSTRIES) 5

Preparation procedure :

The oil-in-water emulsions listed above were prepared as follows:

1. Phase A ingredients were added to a main vessel and heated to 75°C, mixed for 10-15 minutes;

2. the ingredients of phase B were heated to 80°C and added to phase A, homogenized for 10 minutes to obtain a mixture;

3. the mixture was cooled to room temperature; And

4. the ingredients of phase C were added to the mixture at room temperature and dispersed with a mixer to obtain an emulsion.

The emulsions obtained are transparent.

The emulsions prepared above were evaluated through an in vitro test and an in vivo test.

A. Essay in vitro

The compositions to be tested were applied to a Bioskin (Bioskin #20 available from Fisher Scientific Worldwide (Shanghai) Co., Ltd) with the amount of 2 mg/cm ² to mimic the amount that a consumer used. on the eyelid, and the delta L was tested to compare the instantaneous luminosity of each composition, the results were summarized in Table 3.

BN red pearl pigment yellow pearl pigment Delta-L Inv. 1 1 0.5 1 5.34 Comp. 1 0 0.5 1 3.28 Comp. 2 1 0.5 0 3.02

It can be seen in Table 3 that the compositions of Inventive Formula (Inv.) 1 demonstrate a higher delta L, indicating effective brightness, compared to the compositions of Comparative Formulas (Comp.) 1 and 2.

B. Essay live

Recruitment criteria for models:

• N=4 (proof version for rapid screening)
• Chinese women aged 20-35 with concern for dark circles, who are eye product users; And
• exclusion of sensitive skin.

Assessment attributes

Face shots were acquired with a 410 × 410 pixel definition chromasphere to obtain L*, a*, b* and ΔE.

Test area:

Two areas under the eye and two areas on the cheek were assessed.

Test procedure:

• Models wait 10 minutes then wash their face with cleanser;
• Models wait in a standard conditioned room for 30 minutes;
• a baseline measurement was performed;
• the compositions to be tested were applied;
• the instantaneous optical effect evaluation was carried out 10 minutes after application.

Figure 1 shows the results of coverage on the eyelid and visibility of dark circles during the application of the compositions of the formulas of the invention (Inv.) 1 and 2 as well as of the comparative formula (Comp.) 1.

In Figure 1, the direction of positive coverage and direction of negative coverage are demonstrated. In the preferred circle, good coverage and a natural look were observed upon application.

Example 2

Concealer compositions in the form of a hydrogel were prepared according to inventive formulas (inv.) 3 and 4 and comparative formula (comp.) 3 according to the amounts given in Tables 4 and 5 below. The amounts are given in % by weight of the total composition.

Phase INCI NAME Inv. 3 Comp. 3 % in weight % in weight AT SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.15 0.15 D ETHANOL 3 3 AT WATER QS100 QS100 B ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE 5.50 5.50 AT GLYCERIN 14 14 AT HYDROGENATED LECITHIN (NIKKOL LECINOL S 10 from NIKKO) 0.90 0.90 AT CARBOMER (CARBOPOL 980 POLYMER from LUBRIZOL) 0.41 0.41 AT AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE (HOSTACERIN AMPS from CLARIANT) 0.55 0.55 VS TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) MICA (and) IRON OXIDES (CANDURIN GOLD SHEEN from Merck) 2 0 VS TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) MICA (RONASTAR MAGIC RED from MERCK) 0.5 0.5 VS BORON NITRIDE (BORON NITRIDE POWDER TRES BN PUHP 3002 from SAINT GOBAIN CERAMICS) 1 1

Phase INCI NAME Inv. 4 % in weight AT SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.15 D ETHANOL 3 AT WATER QS100 B ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE 5.50 AT GLYCERIN 14 AT HYDROGENATED LECITHIN (NIKKOL LECINOL S 10 from NIKKO) 0.90 AT CARBOMER (CARBOPOL 980 POLYMER from LUBRIZOL) 0.41 AT AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE (HOSTACERIN AMPS from CLARIANT) 0.55 VS TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) MICA (and) IRON OXIDES (CANDURIN GOLD SHEEN from Merck) 2 VS TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) MICA (RONASTAR MAGIC RED from MERCK) 0.25 VS BORON NITRIDE (BORON NITRIDE POWDER TRES BN PUHP 3002 from SAINT GOBAIN CERAMICS) 1.5

Preparation procedure :

The hydrogels listed above were prepared as follows:

1. Phase A ingredients were added to a main vessel and heated to 75°C, mixed for 15 minutes;

2. the ingredient of phase B was added in phase A, they were homogenized for 10 minutes to obtain a mixture;

3. the mixture was cooled to 30°C and the phase C ingredients were added and mixed; And

4. Phase D ingredient was mixed at 30°C to obtain a hydrogel.

The gels obtained are transparent.

The compositions prepared in this example were evaluated through an in vitro test or an in vivo test as described in Example 1.

A. Essay in vitro

Compositions to be tested were applied to a Bioskin (Bioskin #20 available from Fisher Scientific Worldwide (Shanghai) Co., Ltd) with the amount of 2 mg/cm ² to mimic the amount a consumer used. on the eyelid, and the delta L was tested to compare the instantaneous luminosity of each composition. The results of the compositions of Inventive Formula (Inv.) 3 and Comparative Formula (Comp.) 3 are summarized in Table 6.

BN red pearl pigment yellow pearl pigment Delta-L Inv. 3 1 0.5 2 4.11 Comp. 3 1 0.5 0 1.04

It can be seen in Table 6 that the composition of Inventive Formula (Inv.) 3 demonstrates a higher delta L, indicating effective luminosity, compared to the composition of Comparative Formulas (Comp.) 3.

B. Essay live

Figure 1 also shows the results of coverage on the eyelid and visibility of dark circles during the application of the compositions of the formula of the invention (Inv.) 4.

It can be seen that the composition of Inventive Formula (Inv.) 4 also falls within the preferred circle, meaning that good coverage and a natural look were observed upon application.

From examples 1 and 2, it can be seen that the compositions according to the present invention have good coverage on the skin and a natural appearance when applied, can effectively lighten the skin and reduce the visibility of dark circles.

Claims (10)

Composition for taking care of and/or making up keratinous materials, comprising in an aqueous phase, based on the total weight of the composition
(i) from 0.01% by weight to 4% by weight of at least one white particle having a volume average size (D50) of less than 25 μm,
(ii) from 0.01% by weight to 4% by weight of at least one yellow pearlescent pigment having a volume average size (D50) of less than 25 μm, and
(iii) from 0.01% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one red pearlescent pigment having a volume average size (D50) of less than 25 μm. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the white particle has an average refractive index between 1.4 and 2.2. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the white particles are chosen from boron nitride, silica, mica, synthetic mica, or mixtures thereof. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the white particle has a volume average size (D50) of less than 10 µm, preferably between 0.3 µm, more preferably between 0.3 µm and 6 µm, and most preferably 0.5 and 6 µm. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the yellow pearl pigment and/or the red yellow pearl pigment has (have) a volume average size (D50) in the range of 1 to 20 µm, preferably in the range from 5 to 15 µm. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the yellow pearlescent pigment and/or the red yellow pearlescent pigment comprises (comprises) mica and a metal oxide, preferably titanium oxide, oxides of iron, and/or tin oxide. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 6, wherein the weight ratio of white particles to yellow pearlescent pigment is 1:1 to 1:4. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, additionally comprising at least one oil chosen from liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ to C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of C 1 to C 26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols ₁ to C ₂₆ saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 8, further comprising a fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol and/or a glyceryl ester as the nonionic surfactant. Eye concealer product, comprising in an aqueous phase, based on the total weight of the composition:
(i) from 0.5% by weight to 2% by weight boron nitride having a volume average size (D50) of 0.5 μm to 6 μm,
(ii) from 1% by weight to 2.5% by weight of at least one yellow pearlescent pigment having a volume average size (D50) of 5 to 15 μm, and
(iii) from 0.15% by weight to 0.6% by weight of at least one red pearlescent pigment having a volume average size (D50) of 5 to 15 μm.