FR3161857A1 - Process for bleaching keratin fibers comprising the application of a bleaching composition and the application of a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide and free of peroxygenated salt. - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for bleaching keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising sequentially: a) applying to said keratin fibers at least one composition C comprising: i) at least one alkaline agent AA1; ii) at least one peroxygenated salt S1; and iii) hydrogen peroxide; and b) applying to said keratin fibers at least one composition F comprising: i) hydrogen peroxide; ii) optionally at least one alkaline agent AA2; and wherein composition F is devoid of peroxygenated salt, it being understood that step a) may be followed by step b) or step a) may be preceded by step b), preferably step a) is followed by step b).

Description

Process for bleaching keratin fibers comprising the application of a bleaching composition and the application of a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide and free of peroxygenated salt.

The present invention relates to a process for bleaching keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising the application of a particular bleaching composition, and the application of a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide and devoid of peroxygenated salt.

In the field of hair lightening, the tone level is generally used to characterize the degree or level of lightening. The concept of "tone" is based on the classification of natural shades, with one tone separating each shade from the one immediately preceding or following it. This definition and the classification of natural shades are well known to hairdressing professionals and are published in the book "Sciences des traitements cheveux" by Charles Zviak, 1988, Ed. Masson, pp. 215 and 278.

Tone levels range from 1 (black) to 10 (light blonde), with one unit corresponding to one tone; the higher the number, the lighter the shade.

Lightening thus makes it possible to bring a tone level lighter than the initial natural tone level of the hair.

The processes used to lighten hair generally involve using an aqueous composition containing at least one oxidizing agent, in alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases.

This oxidizing agent breaks down the melanin in the hair, which, depending on the type of oxidizing agent used, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the hair fibers. For relatively light lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When more significant lightening is desired, particularly lightening of at least five shades, peroxide salts, such as persulfates, are usually used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. These peroxide salts are contained in formulations that, at the time of use, are mixed with an aqueous solution containing hydrogen peroxide. However, the lightening achieved with this combination is not always satisfactory, as it often results in hair with unattractive yellow/orange tones, which complicates subsequent coloring by limiting it to achieving warm tones.

To adjust the pH of the compositions to an alkaline pH to allow the activation of the oxidizing agent, an alkaline agent is used. This alkaline agent also causes the keratin fiber to swell, opening the scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidizing agent into the fiber, thus increasing the efficiency of the reaction.

However, the use of alkaline agents and peroxide salts can lead to a deterioration in hair quality. The main causes of this deterioration are a decrease in cosmetic properties, such as shine, and a degradation of mechanical properties, particularly a reduction in mechanical strength, which can also result in increased porosity. The hair is weakened and can become brittle during subsequent treatments such as blow-drying.

Lightening dark hair is particularly delicate because it requires the use of a significant amount of peroxide salts if one wishes to lighten it strongly, and/or increasing the application time of bleaching compositions on the hair, which can weaken it.

Furthermore, this process does not necessarily provide optimal lightening as well as good neutralization of yellow and/or orange tones.

Thus, one of the objectives of the present invention is to propose a bleaching process for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, which does not have the disadvantages mentioned above, that is to say, which allows for effective lightening of keratin fibers, especially dark keratin fibers, with better neutralization of yellow and/or orange tints without altering the cosmetic and/or mechanical properties of the hair.

The present invention relates to a process for bleaching keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising, sequentially:

a) the application to said keratin fibers of at least one composition C comprising:

i) at least one alkali agent AA1;

ii) at least one peroxygenated salt S1; and

iii) hydrogen peroxide; and

b) the application to said keratin fibers of at least one composition F comprising:

i) hydrogen peroxide;

ii) optionally at least one AA2 alkali, and

in which composition F is devoid of peroxygenated salt,

it being understood that step a) may be followed by step b) or step a) may be preceded by step b), preferably step a) is followed by step b).

The process according to the invention makes it possible to obtain an improved lightening of keratin fibers as well as an improved neutralization of yellow and/or orange reflections of said fibers.

Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow.

The expression " at least one " means one or more.

Unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a range of values are included in that range, particularly in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

By the expression "greater than" and respectively the expression "less than" in the meaning of the present invention, we mean an open interval that is strictly greater than, respectively strictly less than, and therefore that the bounds are not included.

For the purposes of this application, "keratin fibers" refers particularly to human keratin fibers such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and body hair, preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, and even more preferably hair.

For the purposes of this invention, " hair " means the hair on the head. This term does not include body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes.
For the purposes of this invention, " chemical oxidizing agent " means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.

Hydrogen peroxide

As previously stated, composition C and composition F include hydrogen peroxide.

Advantageously, the total hydrogen peroxide content in composition C ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better from 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Advantageously, the total hydrogen peroxide content ii) in composition F ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4 to 10% by weight, better from 0.5 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

Alkaline agent

As previously stated, composition C includes at least one AA1 alkali agent and composition F may optionally include at least one AA2 alkali agent.

Preferably, composition F includes at least one alkali agent AA2.

Preferably, the alkali agent(s) AA1 and AA2, identical or different, can be chosen independently of each other from organic alkali agents and inorganic alkali agents.

Advantageously, the organic alkali metal(s) are chosen from among the organic amines whose _pKa at 25°C is less than 12, and more preferably less than 10, and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is the _pKa corresponding to the highest degree of basicity. Furthermore, the organic amines do not contain a fatty, alkyl, or alkenyl chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.

The organic alkali agent(s) are preferably chosen from among the alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in _C1 to _C4 .

Alkanolamine is defined as an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched alkyl groups, at _C1 to _C8 bearing one or more hydroxy radicals.

Alkanolamines selected from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, and tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention. Among the alkanolamines, monoethanolamine is especially preferred.

The organic amine can also be chosen from among heterocyclic organic amines. Examples include pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole.

The organic amine can also be chosen from compounds containing a guanidine function. Examples of such amines usable in the present invention include creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)-ethane-1-sulfonic acid.

Among the inorganic alkaline agents that can be used in the process according to the invention, mineral hydroxides can be mentioned.

Mineral hydroxides can be chosen from among the hydroxides of alkali or alkaline earth metals, transition metals, and ammonium. Examples of mineral hydroxides include ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, and zinc hydroxide.

Among mineral hydroxides, ammonium hydroxide, also called ammonia, is preferred.

The inorganic alkali agent(s) may also be chosen from urea, ammonium salts such as ammonium chloride, ammonium sulfate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate or ammonium nitrate, (meta)silicates, phosphates, (bi)carbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, such as lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, barium, and mixtures thereof, preferably from (bi)carbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, in particular magnesium carbonates, more particularly magnesium carbonate hydroxide, and (meta)silicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, in particular (meta)silicates of alkali metals, especially sodium (meta)silicate.

Advantageously, the alkali agent(s) AA1 and AA2, identical or different, are chosen independently of each other from ammonium salts, such as ammonium chloride, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonates, alkali or alkaline earth metal (meta)silicates, alkanolamines, compounds containing a guanidine function, ammonium hydroxide and mixtures thereof, preferably from alkali or alkaline earth metal (meta)silicates such as sodium (meta)silicate and alkali or alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonates such as magnesium carbonate hydroxide, ammonium salts such as ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, composition C comprises one or more alkali agents AA1 selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal (meta)silicates, in particular alkali metal (meta)silicates, preferably sodium (meta)silicate, alkali or alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonates, in particular magnesium carbonates, preferably magnesium carbonate hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the total content of AA1 alkali agent(s) ranges from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, even more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

According to a preferred embodiment, composition F comprises one or more alkali agents AA2 selected from alkanolamines, preferably monoethanolamine, ammonium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the AA2 alkali agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkali metal (meta)silicates, in particular sodium or alkaline earth (meta)silicate, ammonium salts, in particular ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, according to this preferred embodiment, composition F comprises a mixture of sodium (meta)silicate and ammonium bicarbonate.

According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the alkali agent(s) AA2 are selected from alkali or alkaline-earth metal (meta)silicates, in particular sodium (meta)silicate, ammonium salts, in particular ammonium bicarbonate, alkali or alkaline-earth metal carbonates, in particular magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof, preferably from alkali or alkaline-earth metal (meta)silicates, in particular sodium (meta)silicate, alkali or alkaline-earth metal (bi)carbonates, particularly magnesium carbonate, and more particularly magnesium carbonate hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, according to this preferred embodiment, composition F comprises a mixture of sodium (meta)silicate and magnesium carbonate hydroxide.

Advantageously, the total content of AA2 alkali agent(s), when present in composition F, ranges from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 2% to 55%, more preferably from 3% to 50% by weight, even more preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, better from 10% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

Peroxygenated salt

As previously stated, composition C includes at least one peroxygenated salt S1.

Preferably, the peroxygenated salts S1 are chosen from among the persulfates; the perborates; the peracids and/or their salts; the percarbonates of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, or ammonium; magnesium peroxide; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the peroxygenated salt(s) S1 are chosen from among the persulfates.

Persulfates, also called peroxysulfates, correspond, in the sense of the invention, to the anions _SO₅²⁻ ( ^{peroxomonosulfate} anion) or _{S₂O₈²⁻} ( _{peroxodisulfate} anion) or to compounds comprising at least one ^of these anions. Preferably, the persulfates according to the invention are selected from among the peroxodisulfates.

Advantageously, the peroxygenated salt(s) S1 are chosen from among the persulfates, preferably from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, better from ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, composition C comprises a mixture of ammonium persulfate and potassium persulfate.

Advantageously, the total content of peroxygenated salt(s) S1 ranges from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 45% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 35%, even more preferably from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Advantageously, the total content of persulfate(s) S1 ranges from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 45% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 35%, even more preferably from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

As previously stated, composition F is free of peroxygenated salt.

By the expression "composition free of peroxygenated salt" in the context of the present invention, it is understood that said composition comprises less than 0.5% by weight of peroxygenated salt relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably does not comprise any peroxygenated salt (0% by weight).

Fatty body

Composition C and/or composition F may also include at least one fat.

Preferably, composition C includes at least one fat.

Preferably, composition F includes at least one fat.

The term "fats" refers to an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Their structure includes at least one hydrocarbon chain with at least six carbon atoms and/or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fats are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum (or mineral oil), or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Advantageously, the fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

The fats according to the invention are different from fatty acids and their salts.

Preferably, the useful fats according to the invention are non-siliconized.

The term "non-siliconized fat" refers to a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds, and "siliconized fat" refers to a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.

The fats used according to the invention may be liquid fats (or oils) and/or solid fats. Liquid fats are defined as fats having a melting point of 25°C or lower at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). Solid fats are defined as fats having a melting point above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

For the purposes of this invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In this application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

More particularly, the liquid fat(s) according to the invention are chosen from among liquid hydrocarbons in C6 to C16, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglyceride type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that alcohols and fatty esters have, in particular, at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

As for liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to C16 range, these can be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. Examples include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms can be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petroleum jelly oils (INCI name mineral oil or paraffinum liquidum), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

Perhydrosqualene is one example of hydrocarbon oils of animal origin.

Vegetable or synthetic triglyceride oils are preferably chosen from among the liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and their mixtures.

As for fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PC1" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by 3M.

Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned previously, we may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters, we can mention dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-Ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof will be used.

Still within the framework of this variant, one can also use the esters of di or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in C1 to C22 and the esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26.

Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also include, as fatty acid esters, esters and diesters of sugars of fatty acids ranging from C6 to C30, preferably from C12 to C22. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing multiple alcohol groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, particularly alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected, in particular, from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the range of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

These esters can be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

In particular, mono- and di- esters are used, including mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

One example is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Preferably, a liquid ester of a monoacid and a monoalcohol will be used.

The silicone oils usable in the composition according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, modified or not by organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity of 5.10 ^-6 at 2.5 m ² /s at 25°C, and preferably 1.10 ^-5 at 1 m ² /s.

Preferably, silicone oils are chosen from among polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicone oils usable according to the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group, for example chosen from among the amine groups and the alkoxy groups.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When volatile, silicone oils are particularly chosen from those with a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more specifically from:

(i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as mixtures thereof.

We can also mention cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.

We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with silicon-derived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1’-(hexa-2,2,2’,2’,3,3’-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

(ii) Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁻⁶ m²/s at 25°C. This includes, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane, marketed notably under the name “SH 200” by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27–32 – TODD & BYERS “Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics”.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferred.

These silicone oils are specifically chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, the most notable of which are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products can be cited, but are not limited to:
- SILBIONE® oils from series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- the MIRASIL® series oils marketed by the company RHODIA;
- oils from the DOW CORNING 200 series such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 ^mm² /s;
- VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 series from the RHODIA company.

Organomodified silicones usable according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed via a hydrocarbon group.

With regard to liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group, they can notably be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above.

Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.10-5 to 5.10-2 m²/s at 25°C.

Examples of these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include products marketed under the following names:

- SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series by RHODIA;

- the oils from the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;

- DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;

- silicones from the PK series by BAYER such as the PK20 product;

- silicones from the PN, PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products;

- certain oils from the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

Among organomodified silicones, we can mention polyorganosiloxanes containing:
- substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products marketed under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE or the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by DOW CORNING. The substituted amine groups are in particular aminoalkyl groups in C1 to C4;

- alkoxylated groups,

- hydroxyl groups.

The solid fats according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1s ^-1 .

The solid fat(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.

Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen from, alone or in mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

The solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and/or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

We can also use C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acid esters and C1-C22 alcohol esters and C2-C26 mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acid esters and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohol esters.

Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, Octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, including myristyle, cetyl, and stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, including myristyle, cetyl, and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture. However, upon lowering the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

In particular, waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, particularly of biological origin, lanolin wax, and insect waxes from China; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C20 to C60, such as Mi crowax hw.

We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8 to C32. Among these, we can notably mention isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol can also be used, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

As a wax, one can also use a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; Examples include carnauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.

Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and their mixtures.

Preferably, the waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and their mixtures.

Preferably, the waxes are chosen from polyethylene waxes, preferably from polyethylene waxes with a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably greater than or equal to 50°C, preferably greater than or equal to 70°C, better greater than or equal to 80°C, preferably, ranging from 85 to 150°C, better from 90 to 120°C.

Among the usable polyethylene waxes, we can mention in particular the one marketed under the name CIRE POLYETHYLENE A C 1702 by the company HONEYWELL, those marketed under the names PERFORMALENE® 500-L POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® 400 POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® 655 POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® SCRUB BEADS, PERFORMALENE® SE/2 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 725 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 850 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 1000 POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMA SW 100 SYNTHETIC WAX by the company NUCERA SOLUTIONS.

Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.

Ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably conform to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH( _CH2OR2 )(NHCOR1), in which:

R1 designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in the C16-C30 position;

R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, where n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

R3 designates a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group being able to be substituted by one or more alkyl groups in C1-C14; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also designate an alpha-hydroxyalkyl group in C15-C26, the hydroxyl group possibly being esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in C16-C30.

The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 designates a hydrogen atom and R3 designates a linear group saturated at C15.

Preferably, ceramides are used where R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-( _CH2 ) ₁₂ - _CH3 group.

We can also use compounds for which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-( _CH2 ) ₁₂ - _CH3 group.

Other particularly preferred compounds include 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; and 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol. 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine; 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol; N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine; N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine; N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine; N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine; N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine; N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine; cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide; and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine should be used.

Advantageously, composition C includes at least one liquid fat, preferably chosen from mineral oils, in particular liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin or petrolatum oils, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, composition C and/or composition F comprises (include) at least one mineral oil, in particular selected from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin or petroleum jelly oils.

Solid fats are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, waxes, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, composition C and/or composition F comprises (include) at least one solid fat, preferably selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, waxes, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from solid fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, composition C and/or composition F comprises (include) at least one cetearyl alcohol.

Advantageously, composition C and/or composition F further comprises at least one fat, preferably chosen from liquid fats, solid fats and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from mineral oils, solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, in particular liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular paraffin or petrolatum oil, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof

Preferably, composition C and/or composition F comprises(s) at least one liquid fat and at least one solid fat. Preferably, the liquid fat is chosen from mineral oils, in particular liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, especially paraffin or petrolatum oil, and the solid fat is chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular cetearyl alcohol.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, composition C and/or composition F comprises (include) a mixture of mineral oil, in particular paraffin oil or petrolatum, and cetearyl alcohol.

Advantageously, the total content of the fat(s), when present in composition C, ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 8 to 20% by weight, better from 10 to 15% by weight, better still from 11 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Preferably, the total content of the liquid fat(s), when present in composition C, ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, better from 8 to 14% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Advantageously, the total content of the solid fat(s) when present in composition C, ranges from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Advantageously, the total content of the fat(s), when present in composition F, ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 8 to 20% by weight, better from 10 to 15% by weight, better still from 11 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

Preferably, the total content of the liquid fat(s), when present in composition F, ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, better from 8 to 14% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

Advantageously, the total content of the solid fat(s) when present in composition F, ranges from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

Surfactant

Composition C and/or composition F may further comprise at least one surfactant, preferably chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, composition C includes at least one surfactant.

Preferably, composition F includes at least one surfactant.

Anionic surfactant

Anionic surfactants can be chosen from among sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. A mixture of these surfactants can obviously be used.

Preferably, composition C includes at least one anionic surfactant.

Preferably, composition F includes at least one anionic surfactant.

It is understood in this description that:

- Anionic carboxylate surfactants include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or ^-COO- ), and may optionally include in addition one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;

- Anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function ( _-SO3H or _-SO3- ⁾ , and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise a carboxylate function; and

- Anionic sulfate surfactants include at least one sulfate function but do not include a carboxylate or sulfonate function.

The anionic carboxylate surfactants that can be used therefore contain at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or ^-COO- ).

They can be chosen from the following compounds: fatty acids, acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkylethercarboxylic acids, alkyl( _C6 - _C30 aryl)ethercarboxylic acids, alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids; as well as salts of these compounds; and mixtures thereof;
the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;
these compounds can be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

_C6 - _C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as _C6 - _C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and _{C6 - C24 alkyl} polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and their salts, can also be used.

Preferably, anionic carboxylate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixtures:

- fatty acids;

- acylglutamates, especially _C6 - _C24 , or even _C12 - _C20 , such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

- acylsarcosinates, particularly in _C6 - _C24 , or even in _C12 - _C20 , such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

- acyllactylates, particularly in _C12 - _C28 , or even in _C14 - _C24 , such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

- _C6 - _C24 acylglycinates, particularly _C12 - _C20 ;
- alkyl( _C6 - _C24 ) ethercarboxylates, and in particular alkyl( _C12 - _C20 ) ethercarboxylates;

- polyoxyalkylened alkyl( _C6 - _C24 ) (amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohols.

Among the carboxylic surfactants above, we can particularly mention fatty acid type surfactants, especially _C6 - _C30 .

Among the fatty acids, we can mention lauric, palmitic, myristic, stearic, oleic, and behenic acids.

Fatty acids are advantageously chosen from palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof.

Among the carboxylic surfactants mentioned above, sarcosinate-type surfactants are particularly noteworthy. Among the alkyl( _C6 - _C30 )sarcosinates, examples include palmitoylsarcosinates, stearoylsarcosinates, myristoylsarcosinates, lauroylsarcosinates, and cocoylsarcosinates, in either acidic or sal form.

The anionic surfactant(s) of the sarcosinate type are advantageously chosen from sodium lauroylsarcosinate, stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and mixtures thereof, preferably from stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and mixtures thereof.

Among carboxylic surfactants, we can also mention polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, especially ethylene, such as the compounds offered by the company KAO under the names AKYPO.

The anionic sulfonate surfactants that may be used contain at least one sulfonate function ( _-SO3H or _-SO3- ⁾ .

They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as salts of these compounds;

the alkyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;

these compounds can be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

Preferably, anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixtures:

- _C6 - _C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially _C12 - _C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, particularly laurylsulfosuccinates.

- _C6 - _C24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, especially _C12 - _C20 ;

- N-acyltaurates in _C6 - _C24 , particularly in _C12 - _C20,

- ( _C6 - _C24 )acylisethionates, preferably ( _C12 - _C18 )acylisethionates,
in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohols.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of the sulfonate type are chosen from among the N-acyltaurates, and in particular the N-acyl N-methyltaurates, the acylisethionates, as well as their salts and mixtures.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of the sulfonate type are chosen from among the acylisethionates, as well as their salts and mixtures.

When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferred, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:

- fatty acids in C ₆ - C ₃₀ , especially in C ₈ - C ₂₄ ;

- _C6 - _C24 alkylsulfates, preferably _C10 - _C22 , especially _C12 - _C20 ;

- _C6 - _C24 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably _C10 - _C22 , especially _C12 - _C20 ; preferably comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs;

- _C6 - _C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially _C12 - _C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, particularly laurylsulfosuccinates;

- _C6 - _C24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, especially _C12 - _C20 ;

- N-acyltaurates in _C6 - _C24 , especially in _C12 - _C20;

- ( _C6 - _C24 )acylisethionates, preferably ( _C12 - _C18 )acylisethionates;

- _C6 - _C24 acylsarcosinates, particularly _C12 - _C20 ; in particular palmitoylsarcosinates, stearoylsarcosinates, myristoylsarcosinates;

- alkyl( _C6 - _C24 )ethercarboxylates, preferably alkyl( _C12 - _C20 )ethercarboxylates;

- polyoxyalkylened alkyl( _C6 - _C24 )(amido)ethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene;

- acylglutamates in _C6 - _C24 , especially in _C12 - _C20 ;

- _C6 - _C24 acylglycinates, particularly _C12 - _C20 ;

- as well as their salts, in particular their salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals or of zinc, ammonium, or amino alcohol;

- and their mixtures.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s), when present in composition C and/or in composition F, are chosen from _C6 - _C30 fatty acids, especially _C8 - _C24 , _C6 - _C24 alkyl sulfates, preferably _C10 - _C22 , especially _C12 - _C20 , and mixtures thereof, said compounds being preferably in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, especially sodium salt.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, composition C and/or composition F comprises (include) a mixture of sodium stearate, sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium cetearyl sulfate, said compound being a mixture of sodium stearyl sulfate and sodium cetyl sulfate.

Advantageously, the total content of anionic surfactant(s), when present in composition C, ranges from 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Advantageously, the total content of anionic surfactant(s), when present in composition F, ranges from 0.001 to 45% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 35% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better from 1 to 25% relative to the total weight of composition F.

Non-ionic surfactant

Composition C and/or composition F may also include one or more non-ionic surfactants.

Preferably, composition C includes at least one non-ionic surfactant.

Preferably, composition F includes at least one non-ionic surfactant.

The non-ionic surfactant(s) usable in the invention are described in particular, for example, in " Handbook of Surfactants " by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.

Examples of nonionic surfactants may include oxyalkylated alkyl( _C8 - _C24 )phenols, oxyalkylated or glycerolated _C8 - _C40 alcohols, oxyalkylated or glycerolated C8-C30 fatty acid amides, _C8 - _C30 acid esters with polyethylene glycols, _C8 - _C30 acid esters with sorbitol, fatty acid esters with sucrose, alkyl( _C8 - _C30) (poly)glucosides, alkenyl( _C8 - _C30 )(poly)glucosides, alkyl( _C8 - _C30 )( _poly )glucosides esters, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, ethylene oxide condensates, and/ _or propylene oxide, N -alkyl( _C8 - _C30 )glucamine and N -acyl( _C8 - _C30 )methylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

More specifically, the following compounds can be cited, alone or in mixtures:
- alkyl( _C8 - _C24 )oxyalkylened phenols;

- alcohols in the _C8 to _{C40 range} , saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerolated, they preferably have one or two fatty chains; distinct from the fatty alcohols described previously;

- esters of _C8 to _C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;
- esters of _C8 to _C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated;

- fatty acid and sucrose esters,

- alkyl( _C8 - _C30 )(poly)glucosides, alkenyl( _C8 - _C30 )(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated (0 to 10 oxyalkylated motifs) and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs, alkyl( _C8 - _C30 )(poly)glucosides esters,

- oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated;

- ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide condensates;

- derivatives of N -alkyl( _C8 - _C30 )glucamine and N- acyl( _C8 - _C30 )-methylglucamine;

- amine oxides.

They are chosen, in particular, from fatty alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl( _C1 - _C20 )phenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30. Advantageously, non-ionic surfactants are in particular _C8 - _C30 fatty alcohols, preferably _C8 - _C24 , oxyalkylated, preferably ethoxylated comprising from 1 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide.

We can also mention ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, polyglycerol fatty amides having on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, ( _C6 - _C24 alkyl) polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-( _C6 - _C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as ( _C10 - _C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-( _C10 - _C14 acyl)-aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

Esters (in particular mono-, di-, and tri-esters) of _C8 - _C30 fatty acids, preferably _C12 - _C22 , and of sorbitan may be selected from:
Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.

The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of _C8 - _C30 fatty acids (preferably _C12 - _C18 ) and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan having in particular 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide may be selected from the esters of _C12 - _C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl, stearic acid, of (poly)oxyethylenated sorbitan having in particular 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide.

Non-ionic surfactants can also be chosen from oxygenated vegetable oils.

Examples of oxyethylenated vegetable oils include: sesame, castor, soybean, coffee, safflower, borage, sunflower, olive, apricot kernel, argan, camellia, bambara pea, avocado, mango, rice bran, cottonseed, rosehip, kiwi seed, sea buckthorn pulp, blueberry seed, flaxseed, walnut, poppy, orange seed, sweet almond, palm, coconut, vernonia, marjoram, baobab, rapeseed, ximenia, pracaxi, jojoba oil, and shea oil, containing 1 to 250 moles of ethylene oxides, preferably 1 to 200 moles of oxides. of ethylene, better 10 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, even better 20 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide.

Preferably, non-ionic surfactants of the oxyethylenated vegetable oil type are chosen from among oxyethylenated castor oils, more preferably oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oils, and in particular oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oils with INCI names: PEG-25 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-35 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-65 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 Hydrogenated castor oil, and PEG-200 Hydrogenated castor oil, and their mixtures.

Non-ionic surfactants can also be chosen from among alkyl(poly)glycoside (or APG) type non-ionic surfactants, also called alkyl(poly)glycoside non-ionic surfactants.

The term "alky(poly)glycoside" refers to an alkylpolyglycoside or an alkylmonoglycoside, also called alkylglycoside in this application, the alkyl group of which comprises between 6 and 30 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 24 carbon atoms, and which may optionally be alkoxylated by one or more alkylene oxide groups, preferably at _C2 to _C4 .

The non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from the following compounds of formula (III) and their mixtures:
R ₁ O-(R ₂ O) _t (G) _v (III)
formula (III), in which:

- R ₁ represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group, comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl group whose linear or branched alkyl group comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms,

- _R2 represents an alkylene group containing approximately 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- G represents a saccharidic motif containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, and

- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.

Preferably, the non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant(s) are chosen, alone or in mixture, from compounds of formula (III) in which:

- R ₁ designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group, comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

- G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, and preferably glucose,

- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, and is preferably equal to 0, and

- _R2 and v are as defined previously.

The degree of polymerization of the non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant(s), as represented for example by the index v in formula (III) above, varies on average from 1 to 15, and preferably from 1 to 4. This degree of polymerization varies more particularly from 1 to 2, and even better from 1.1 to 1.5, on average.

The glycosidic bonds between the saccharidic motifs are in 1,6 or in 1,4; and preferably in 1,4.

The non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycosides surfactants that can be used in the present invention are preferably alkyl(poly)glucosides, in particular represented by the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN ^® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE ^® (818, 1200 and 2000). Products sold by SEPPIC under the names TRITON CG 110 (or ORAMIX CG 110) and TRITON CG 312 (or ORAMIX ^® NS 10), products sold by BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, products sold by CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK, or products sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names TEGO CARE CG 90 or TEGO CARE CG 90 MB can also be used.

The nonionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant(s), which may be present in composition C and/or composition F, are preferably selected from caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the nonionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant(s) are selected from caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the nonionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is coco glucoside.

Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from among oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising 1 to 250 moles of ethylene oxide, ethoxylated _C8 - _C24 fatty alcohols comprising 1 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide, ethoxylated _C8 - _C30 fatty acid and sorbitan esters having 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, ( _C6 - _C24 alkyl) polyglycosides, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from among the oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising 1 to 250 moles, better 1 to 200, even better 10 to 150, always better 20 to 100, moles of ethylene oxide.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, composition C and/or composition F comprises (include) oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil, INCI name PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil.

Advantageously, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s), when present in composition C, ranges from 0.2% to 2.4% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4% to 0.7% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Advantageously, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s), when present in composition F, ranges from 0.2% to 2.4% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4% to 0.7% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

Advantageously, the surfactant(s) are chosen from among oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising 1 to 250 moles, better 1 to 200, even better 10 to 150, always better 20 to 100, moles of ethylene oxide, in particular oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil, such as oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil with INCI name PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil, alkyl sulfates, such as sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, C12-C20 fatty acid salts, in particular sodium stearate, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, composition C and/or composition F comprises (include) a mixture of hydrogenated oxyethylenated castor oil of INCI name PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium stearate and sodium cetearyl sulfate.

Advantageously, the total surfactant content, when present in composition C, ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.75 to 8% by weight, better from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Advantageously, the total surfactant content, when present in composition F, ranges from 0.01 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 45% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 40% by weight, even more preferably from 0.75 to 30% by weight, better from 1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

Amino acid type compound

Composition C and/or composition F may also include at least one amino acid-type compound other than the previously mentioned surfactants.

For the purposes of this invention, an amino acid compound is defined as an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and/or sulfonic acid functions, and one or more amine functions, the amine function(s) being intra-cyclic, possibly in salt form.

Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) are chosen from among those containing only one or more carboxylic acid groups (i.e., no sulfonic acid groups) and/or their salts. These compounds are also called carboxylic amino acid compounds and are particularly preferred.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amino acid type compound selected from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and/or their salts.

Amino acid-type compounds can therefore correspond to formula (I) :
(I)
in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that:
- when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 links, preferably 5 links, this cycle being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C1-C4)alkyl;
- when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C12)alkyl group, preferably (C1-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from –S–, –NH– or –C(NH)– and/or possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or –NH–C(NH)–NH2.

Preferably, when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 links, this cycle not being substituted.

Preferably, p=2.

Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by a heteroatom –S– and/or possibly substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or –NH–C(NH)–NH2.

Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

Amino acid type compounds can also be a salt of compound of formula (I) .

These salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, and potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium, and zinc salts.

Amino acid type compounds can be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL configuration, preferably of L configuration.

Examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an L-configuration optical isomer include L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine.

Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and their mixtures.

Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts and mixtures thereof.

Even better, the amino acid type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (especially of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and their mixtures.

Examples of glycine salts according to the present invention include sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

The particularly preferred amino acid compound is glycine.

Advantageously, the total content of amino acid type compound(s), when present in composition C, ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

More advantageously, the total content of amino carboxylic acid type compound(s), when present in composition C, preferably ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Even more advantageously, the total glycine content, when present in composition C, ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Advantageously, the total content of amino acid type compound(s), when present in composition F, ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

More advantageously, the total content of amino carboxylic acid type compound(s), when present in composition F, preferably ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

Even more advantageously, the total glycine content, when present in composition F, ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

Derivative of zwitterionic amino acids bearing a quaternary ammonium group

Composition C and/or composition F may further comprise at least one derivative of zwitterionic amino acids bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising in total from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, better from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, better still from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

Preferably, zwitterionic amino acid derivatives bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising a total of 1 to 12 carbon atoms are selected from valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyllysine, glycine betaine (trimethylglycine), histidine betaine, alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, dimethylsulfoniopropionate and mixtures thereof, preferably trimethylglycine (also referred to herein as glycine betaine or "betaine").

Advantageously, the total content of zwitterionic amino acid derivatives bearing an ammonium group, when present in composition C, ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Even more advantageously, the total trimethylglycine content, when present in composition C, ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Advantageously, the total content of zwitterionic amino acid derivatives bearing an ammonium group, when present in composition F, ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

Even more advantageously, the total trimethylglycine content, when present in composition F, ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

(Poly)carboxylic acid

Composition C and/or composition F may further include at least one (poly)carboxylic acid, other than the amino acid type compound(s), fatty acids and surfactants previously described, their salts or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) is/are chosen from the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) of the following formula (II) :
(II)

Formula (II) in which:

- n is an integer between 0 and 10, better between 1 and 5, even better between 1 and 3, preferably n=1 or 2, preferably n=2;

- A is a monovalent (when n=0) or multivalent (when n is different from 0) hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic, or even aromatic, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy (OH) groups.

Preferably, A is a monovalent or multivalent (C1-C6)alkylene group, better (C2-C4)alkylene, or phenylene, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups.

Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) are alpha-hydroxy acids, for which A is a (C1-C6)alkylene group, better (C2-C4)alkylene, or phenylene, substituted by 1 or 2 hydroxy groups, preferably 1 hydroxy group; and n = 0 to 2.

In particular, we can mention (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) in which:

- n=0 and A is a monovalent (C1-C6)alkyl group, in particular (C2-C4)alkyl, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy (OH) groups, in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH;

- n=0 and A is a phenyl radical substituted by 1 OH radical; or

- n = 1 or 2, and A is a di- or trivalent (C1-C6)alkyl group, better (C2-C4)alkyl, substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH.

Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids can be chosen from:

- citric acid (n=2 and A trivalent = -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ - ) ;

- salicylic acid (n=0 and A = phenyl substituted by an OH);

- lactic acid (n=0 and monovalent A = -CH(OH) _CH3 ); and

- tartaric acid (n=1 and A divalent = -CH(OH)-CH(OH)-).

The particularly preferred (poly)carboxylic acid is citric acid.

Advantageously, the total content of (poly)carboxylic acids and/or their salts, when present in composition C, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 6% by weight, better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

In particular, the total citric acid content, when present in composition C, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 6% by weight, better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Advantageously, the total content of (poly)carboxylic acids and/or their salts, when present in composition F, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 6% by weight, better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

In particular, the total citric acid content, when present in composition F, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 6% by weight, better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

Thickening polymer

Composition C and/or composition F may also include at least one thickening polymer.

Preferably, composition C includes at least one thickening polymer.

Preferably, composition F includes at least one thickening polymer.

For the purposes of this invention, a thickening polymer is defined as a polymer which, when introduced at 1% by weight into an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution containing 30% ethanol at pH 7, or into an oil selected from petroleum jelly, isopropyl myristate, or cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, achieves a viscosity of at least 100 cps (centipoise), in particular at least 200 cps, preferably at least 500 cps, at 25°C and a shear rate of 1 ^s⁻¹ . This viscosity can be measured using a cone-to-plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or similar).

The thickening polymers according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. A mixture of several thickening polymers may also be used. They may be selected from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric thickening polymers and mixtures thereof.

Thickening polymers can be chosen from thickening acrylic polymers and thickening polysaccharides.

For the purposes of this invention, acrylic polymer is defined as a polymer resulting from a polymerization reaction involving one or more structural monomer(s):

with _R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical,

and R ₄ designating a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, an NR ₅ R ₆ radical or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkoxy radical, said radicals possibly being substituted by one or more OH and/or quaternary ammonium radical;

R ₅ and R ₆ designate independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical, linear or branched, in C1-C30 possibly oxyalkylated, possibly including a sulfonic group.

Preferably _R3 designates a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical.

The acrylic thickening polymers that can be used in the present invention may be selected from:

(a) associative (meth)acrylic polymers;

(b) crosslinked homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and C1-C6 alkyl acrylate;

(c) non-ionic homo- and copolymers containing ester and/or amide type monomers with ethylenic unsaturation;

(d) ammonium acrylate homopolymers and ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymers.

By "associative thickening polymer", according to the invention, is meant an amphiphilic thickening polymer comprising both hydrophilic and hydrophobic motifs, in particular comprising at least one C8 C30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic motif.

(a) The associative thickening (meth)acrylic polymers according to the invention may be non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric.

Preferably, the non-ionic associative thickening polymers according to the invention are chosen from:

- copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl (meth)acrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain (e.g., oxyethylenated (C8-C22) alkyl acrylates) such as, for example, the oxyethylenated methyl methacrylate/stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208; and

- copolymers of hydrophilic (meth)acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain (for example alkyl (C8-C22) (meth)acrylates) such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

The anionic associative thickening polymers according to the invention can be selected from those comprising at least one hydrophilic motif of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic motif of the unsaturated carboxylic acid alkyl(C10-C30) ester type.

Among the aforementioned polymers, we particularly prefer the products sold by GOODRICH under the trade names PEMULEN TR1®, PEMULEN TR2®, CARBOPOL 1382®, and even more preferentially PEMULEN TR1®, the product sold by LUBRIZOL under the trade name CARBOPOL ETD 2020 POLYMER® (INCI name: ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER) and the product sold by S.E.P.C. under the name COATEX SX®.

Among the anionic amphiphilic polymers with fatty chains, we can also mention copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol.

Preferably, these compounds also include as a monomer an ester of α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and C1-C4 alcohol.

Examples include ACULYN 22® sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), and ACULYN 28® sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), as well as NOVETHIX L-10 POLYMER® sold by Lubrizol.

As examples of anionic amphiphilic polymers with fatty chains, one can also mention the methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/dimethylmetisopropenylbenzylisocyanate ethoxylated alcohol copolymer, notably marketed under the name VISCOPHOBE DB 1000 by the company AMERCHOL.

Examples of anionic amphiphilic polymers with fatty chains include those comprising at least one acrylic monomer with sulfonic group(s), in free form or partially or totally neutralized and comprising at least one hydrophobic part.

The cationic associative thickening polymers according to the present invention can be selected from polyacrylates with amine side groups.

Polyacrylates with amine side groups, quaternized or not, possess for example hydrophobic groups of the type steareth-20 (stearyl alcohol with 20 moles of ethylene oxide) or alkyl(C10-C30)PEG-20 itaconate.

Examples of polyacrylates with amine side chains include polymers 8781-124B or 9492-103 or STRUCTURE PLUS from NATIONAL STARCH.

The amphoteric associative thickening polymers according to the invention can be selected from C10-C30 methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid/alkyl methacrylate copolymers, the alkyl radical preferably being a stearyl radical.

(b) Examples of crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers include products sold under the names CARBOPOLS 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by GOODRICH or products sold under the names SYNTHALEN M and SYNTHALEN K by 3 VSA.

Among the crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and C1-C6 alkyl acrylate, we can mention the product sold under the name VISCOATEX 538C by COATEX, which is a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in an aqueous dispersion with 38% active ingredient, or the product sold under the name ACULYN 33 by ROHM & HAAS, which is a crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in an aqueous dispersion with 28% active ingredient. A more specific example is the crosslinked methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer in an aqueous dispersion with 30% active ingredient, manufactured and sold under the name CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 by NOVEON.

(c) Examples of non-ionic homopolymers or copolymers containing ester and/or amide type monomers with ethylenic unsaturation include products sold under the names CYANAMER P250 by CYTEC (polyacrylamide); PMMA MBX-8C by US COSMETICS (methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer); ACRYLOID B66 by RHOM & HAAS (butyl methacrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer); BPA 500 by KOBO (polymethyl methacrylate).

(d) Among the ammonium acrylate homopolymers, we can mention the product sold under the name MICROSAP PAS 5193 by the company HOECHST.

Among the ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymers, we can mention the product sold under the name BOZEPOL C NOUVEAU or the product PAS 5193 sold by the company HOECHST.

Among the acrylic thickening polymers that can be used in the present invention, preferably one or more acrylic thickening polymers of family a) will be used, more preferably chosen from anionic (meth)acrylic associative thickening polymers.

As previously stated, the thickening polymers according to the invention can be selected from thickening polysaccharides.

The thickening polysaccharides according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. They may be non-ionic, anionic, amphoteric or cationic.

The basic units of the polysaccharides of the invention may be mono- or disaccharides. The motifs that may be included in the composition of the polysaccharides of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, fructose, anhydrogalactose.

Examples of thickening polysaccharides that could be used include the following polymers and their derivatives:

- guar gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose)

- carob gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose)

- fenugreek gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose)

- tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose)

- konjac gum (glucose and mannose polymer),

- scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer),

- cellulose (glucose polymer)

- starch (polymer of glucose)

- Inulin (a polymer of fructose and glucose).

These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. Physical treatments include temperature modification. Chemical treatments include esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions. These treatments result in polymers that can be nonionic, cationic, or amphoteric.

Cellulose and cellulose derivatives can be cationic, amphoteric, or non-ionic. Examples of these derivatives include cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, and cellulose ether esters.

Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, we can mention alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed hydroxyalkyl-alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-ethylcelluloses (for example, Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.

Among cationic cellulose ethers, cross-linked or non-cross-linked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses can be mentioned. The quaternizing agent can be, in particular, diallyldimethylammonium chloride (for example, Celquat L200 from NATIONAL STARCH). Another cationic cellulose ether is hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium (for example, Ucare polymer JR 400 from AMERCHOL).

Thickening polysaccharides can be associative. Examples include celluloses or their derivatives, modified by groups containing at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof where the alkyl groups are in C8-C22; non-ionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the products NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS and POLYSURF 67 (alkyl in C16) sold by the company AQUALON; quaternized (cationic) alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as QUATRISOFT LM 200, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-B (C12 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8 (C18 alkyl) sold by AMERCHOL, CRODACEL QM, CRODACEL QL (C12 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS (C18 alkyl) sold by CRODA and SOFTCAT SL 100 sold by AMERCHOL; non-ionic nonoxynylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as AMERCELL HM-1500 sold by AMERCHOL; non-ionic alkylcelluloses such as BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by BEROL NOBEL.

Examples of associative thickening polysaccharides derived from guar include hydroxypropylguars modified by a fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (modified by an alkyl chain at C22) sold by the company LAMBERTI; the product MIRACARE XC 95-3 (modified by an alkyl chain at C14) and the product RE 205-146 (modified by an alkyl chain at C20) sold by RHODIA CHIMIE.

Among thickening polysaccharides, non-ionic polysaccharides are preferred, particularly those chosen from celluloses and their derivatives, preferably from non-ionic cellulose ethers.

Preferably, thickening polymers are chosen from non-ionic polysaccharides, alone or in mixtures, in particular from celluloses and their derivatives, notably hydroxyethylcellulose and anionic (meth)acrylic associative thickening polymers.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, composition C and/or composition F comprises a mixture of hydroxyethylcellulose and Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylates crosspolymer.

Advantageously, the total content of thickening polymer(s), when present in composition C, ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better from 0.3 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.4 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Advantageously, the total content of thickening polymer(s), when present in composition F, ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better from 0.3 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.4 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

Direct dye

Composition C and/or composition F may also include one or more direct colorant(s).

Preferably, composition F may include one or more direct colorant(s).

Direct dyes can be synthetic or natural.

Synthetic direct dyes are chosen, for example, from those classically used in direct dyeing, and among which we can mention all the aromatic and/or non-aromatic dyes in common use such as benzene, azo, hydrazono, (hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azinic, porphyrinic, metalloporphyrinic, xanthenic, quinonic and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine, phthalocyanine and their mixtures.

Among the direct nitrobenzene dyes, we can mention: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-β-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1,4-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-benzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(β-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1-amino-3-methyl-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1,2-bis-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-tris-(hydroxymethyl)-methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-Methoxy-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1- β,γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-β,γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β,γ-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-6-bis-(β-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.

Among the azo direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.

Among the direct hydrazono dyes, we can mention: Basic Yellow 87.

Among the direct aryl nitrate dyes, we can mention: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, N,N’-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-phenylenediamine.

Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also called HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50; tetrabromophenol blue.

Examples of xanthenic dyes include: Acid Red 92; Acid Red 52.

Among the quinone direct dyes, we can mention: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, as well as the following compounds: 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-anthraquinone, 5-β-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylamino-anthraquinone, 1,4-bis-(β,γ-dihydroxypropylamino)-anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.

Examples of direct azinic dyes include: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.

Among the direct indoamine dyes, we can mention: 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-[bis-(β-4’-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2’-methoxy-4’-amino)anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 3-N(2’-chloro-4’-hydroxy)phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-N(3’-chloro-4’-methylamino)phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-[4’-N-(ethyl,carbamylmethyl)-amino]-phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine.

Natural direct dyes are chosen for example from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubine, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or orthodiphenols.

Among the useful orthodiphenols according to the invention are: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, hematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-Epicatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-Dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, Santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betadin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin C1, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-Dihydroxy-2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, Alizarin, Wedelolactone and natural extracts containing them.

Advantageously, the total content of direct colorant(s), when present in composition C, ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Advantageously, the total content of direct colorant(s), when present in composition F, ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

Additive

Composition C and/or composition F may further comprise at least one additive, different from the compounds of the invention previously mentioned.

Within the framework of the present invention, the additive(s) may be chosen from polymers other than thickening polymers, including anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric, cationic polymers or mixtures thereof, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, mineral thickening agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and/or regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, chelating agents, perfumes, preservatives.

Process

The process for bleaching keratin fibers according to the invention, sequentially comprises a step (a) of applying at least one bleaching composition C as defined above and a step (b) of applying at least one composition F as defined above.

Thus, according to the invention, step (a) is carried out before step (b), or step (a) is carried out after step (b).

According to a preferred embodiment, step (a) is carried out before step (b).

According to another preferred embodiment, step (a) is carried out after step (b).

Furthermore, according to the invention, composition C is different from composition F.

According to a particular embodiment, step (b) is repeated at least once.

Preferably, during step (a), composition C is applied to a part of the hair, preferably to strands.

Preferably, during step (b), composition F is applied to all the hairs in the head.

The application of Composition C as defined above to keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, can be carried out on dry or wet hair, as well as on all types of hair, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.

The application of Composition C to keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a sponge, a hot water bottle, an applicator, a sponge or the fingers.

Composition C is preferably applied between 25°C and 40°C.

Advantageously, the application of composition C is followed by a setting time ranging from 1 to 60 minutes, preferably from 15 to 35 minutes, more preferably from 20 to 30 minutes.

Preferably, the process according to the invention includes a step of removing the composition at least partially from the keratin fibers between steps a) and b), i.e. at least partial removal of composition C before application of composition F, or at least partial removal of composition F before application of composition C according to the order of steps a) and b).

Preferably, composition C is removed at least partially from the keratin fibers before the application of composition F or composition F is removed at least partially from the keratin fibers before the application of composition C, said removal being effected by scraping, rinsing or by application of shampoo.

Preferably, composition C is removed at least partially from the keratin fibers before the application of composition F or composition F is removed at least partially from the keratin fibers before the application of composition C by scraping, preferably using a wooden spatula or the back of a comb, in particular by removing the residual product present on the strand, from the root to the tip thereof.

The application of composition C and the application of composition F to the keratin fibers are not simultaneous. In other words, the action of applying composition C and the action of applying composition F to the keratin fibers are not simultaneous.

However, according to a particular embodiment, when partial removal is carried out between steps a) and b) or when no removal is carried out between steps a) and b), compositions C and F may be present simultaneously on the keratin fibers.

According to another embodiment, when a rinsing step is carried out between steps a) and b), compositions C and F are not present simultaneously on the keratin fibers.

Advantageously, the bleaching process according to the invention includes a step consisting of extemporaneously mixing at the time of use a composition A comprising at least one alkaline agent AA1, at least one peroxygenated salt S1 and a composition B comprising at least hydrogen peroxide to obtain composition C, then applying said composition C to the keratin fibers during step a).

According to a preferred embodiment, compositions A and B are mixed preferably less than 15 minutes before application to the hair, more preferably less than 10 minutes before application, even more preferably less than 5 minutes before application.

The mass weight ratio between composition B and composition A preferably goes from 0.1 to 10, more preferably from 0.2 to 5, even more preferably from 0.5 to 3, better from 1 to 2.

The total content of AA1 alkali agent(s) in composition A is preferably from 1 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 55% by weight, even more preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, better from 30 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

The total content of peroxygenated salt(s) S1 in composition A is preferably from 20 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 70% by weight, even more preferably from 40 to 60% by weight, better from 50 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

The total hydrogen peroxide content in composition B is preferably from 0.1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, better from 8 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

Composition B is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 10% by weight of water, preferably more than 30% by weight of water, more preferably more than 50% by weight of water, more preferably still more than 60% by weight of water, better more than 65% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of composition B.

Composition B further preferably includes at least one fatty substance such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, in particular cetearyl alcohol, mineral oils, in particular liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular paraffin or petrolatum oils and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the total fat content, when present, ranges from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 45% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 35% by weight, even more preferably from 18 to 22% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

The application to keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, of composition F containing hydrogen peroxide and being free of peroxygenated salt, is carried out before or after the application of composition C and preferably after at least partial removal of composition C.

The application of composition F to keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a sponge, a hot water bottle, an applicator, a sponge or the fingers.

Advantageously, the application of composition F is followed by a setting time ranging from 1 to 60 minutes, preferably from 15 to 35 minutes, more preferably from 20 to 30 minutes.

According to a particular embodiment, a rinsing step of the keratin fibers is carried out after the application of composition F, and possibly after placement.

The term " rinsing step " refers to the application of water to the keratin fibers.

Preferably, a rinsing step of the keratin fibers is carried out less than four hours after the application of composition F, more preferably even less than two hours after the application of composition F, and after the possible placement step.

Preferably, a shampoo is applied to the said keratin fibers after the rinsing step.

EXAMPLES

In the following examples, all quantities are given as mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated).

Example 1

Compositions A and B, as described below in Tables 1 and 2, were prepared.

Composition HAS sodium silicate 28.0 EDTA disodium 1.0 Magnesium carbonate hydroxide 9.0 Sodium stearate 3.7 sodium lauryl sulfate 1.0 Potassium persulfate 41.6 Ammonium persulfate 11.6 Mineral oil 2.0 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.7 Acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.7 Pigment 0.7

Composition B PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.9 Cetearyl alcohol 3.15 Sodium cetearyl sulfate 0.45 Hydrogen peroxide 9.0 Stabilizers, chelating agents qs Mineral oil 17.0 Phosphoric acid Qs pH = 4.2 +/- 0.2 Water Qsp 100

A bleaching composition C was prepared by mixing, in a bowl and with a brush, composition A (table 1) with composition B (table 2), according to the mass weight ratio composition A / Composition B of 1:1.5.

In addition, compositions D and E as described below in Tables 3 and 4 were prepared.

Composition D sodium silicate 41.0 Ammonium bicarbonate 50.0 EDTA disodium 1.0 Sodium stearate 3.6 sodium lauryl sulfate 1.0 Mineral oil 2.0 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.7 Acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.7

Composition E PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.9 Cetearyl alcohol 3.15 Hydrogen peroxide 1.5 Sodium cetearyl sulfate 0.45 Stabilizers, chelating agents qs Mineral oil 17.0 Phosphoric acid Qs pH = 4.2 +/- 0.2 Water Qsp 100

Composition F1 was prepared by mixing, in a bowl and with a brush, composition D (table 3) with composition E (table 4), according to the mass weight ratio composition D / Composition E of 1:2.

Compositions C and F1 are summarized in Table 5 below:

Compositions C F1 Mixture of compositions (Weight ratio) A + B (1 : 1.5) D + E (1 : 2)

Protocol :

Two processes were implemented on strands of Caucasian type HT4 hair (tone height 4).

According to method 1, only composition C was applied to the hair strands at a rate of 10 g of composition per gram of strand, using a brush. The application of composition C was followed by a processing time of 50 minutes at a temperature of 33°C.

According to procedure 2, composition C was first applied to the hair strands at a rate of 10 g of composition per gram of strand, using a brush. The application of composition C was followed by a processing time of 25 minutes at a temperature of 33°C. Composition C was then partially removed by scraping.

Composition F1 was then applied to the strands previously treated with composition C, at a rate of 5 g of composition per gram of strand, using a brush. The application of composition F1 was followed by a 25-minute processing time at a temperature of 27°C, and then rinsing with water. Shampoo was then applied to the strands.

Process 1, hereafter referred to as process P1, is a comparative process.

Process 2, hereinafter referred to as process P2, is a process according to the invention.

The processes applied are summarized in Table 6 below:

Processes P1 (comparative) P2 (invention) Application of compositions C C + F1 Exposure time 50 min 25 min + 25 min

The neutralization of yellow and/or orange reflections in the hair strands was then evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).

In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the color, a* indicates the green/red color axis and b* the blue/yellow color axis.

The lower the value of b*, the better the neutralization of yellow and/or orange reflections.

The results obtained are summarized in Table 7 below:

Processes b* P1 (comparative) 33.22 P2 (invention) 29.19

The process according to invention P2 makes it possible to obtain strands of hair having a lower b* value than that of the strands of hair treated by the comparative process P1.

Thus, the process according to the invention makes it possible to improve the neutralization of yellow and/or orange reflections and therefore to make the result of the bleaching more aesthetic.

Example 2

The decolorization composition C as prepared in example 1 is used again in example 2.

Composition F1, as prepared in example 1, is also used again in example 2.

In addition, composition G as described below in Table 8 was prepared:

Composition G sodium silicate 28.0 Magnesium carbonate hydroxide 9.0 Sodium stearate 58.6 sodium lauryl sulfate 1.0 Mineral oil 2.0 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.7 Acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.7

Composition F2 was prepared by mixing, in a bowl and with a brush, composition G as specified above (table 8) with composition B as specified above (table 2), according to the mass weight ratio composition G / Composition B of 1:1.5.

Compositions C, F1 and F2 are summarized in Table 9 below:

Compositions C F1 F2 Mixture of compositions (Weight ratio) A + B (1 : 1.5) D + E (1 : 2) G + B (1 : 1.5)

Protocol :

Three processes were implemented on strands of Caucasian type HT4 hair (tone height 4).

Method 1, as described previously in Example 1, has been implemented.

In addition, process 2, as described previously in example 1, was implemented.

According to procedure 3, composition C was first applied to the hair strands at a rate of 10 g of composition per gram of strand, using a brush. The application of composition C was followed by a processing time of 25 minutes at a temperature of 33°C. Composition C was then partially removed by scraping.

Composition F2 was then applied to the strands previously treated with composition C, at a rate of 10 g of composition per gram of strand, using a brush. The application of composition F2 was followed by a 25-minute processing time at a temperature of 33°C, and then rinsing with water. Shampoo was then applied to the strands.

Process 1, designated P1, is a comparative process.

Process 2, designated P2, is a process according to the invention.

Process 3, hereinafter referred to as process P3, is a process according to the invention.

Strands of Caucasian HT4 type hair that have not been treated by a process are referred to as "strands before treatment".

The processes applied are summarized in Table 10 below:

Processes P1 (comparative) P2 (invention) P3 (invention) Application of compositions C C + F1 C + F2 Exposure time 50 min 25 min + 25 min 25 min + 25 min

The lightening of the hair strands was then evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).

In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the color, a* indicates the green/red color axis and b* the blue/yellow color axis.

The higher the L* value, the better the lightening.

The results obtained are summarized in Table 11 below:

Processes L* Hair before treatment 20.40 P1 (comparative) 55.14 P2 (invention) 60.16 P3 (invention) 60.64

The processes according to the invention P2 and P3 make it possible to obtain strands of hair having a higher L* value than that of the strands of hair treated by the comparative process P1.

Thus, the processes according to the invention make it possible to improve the lightening of keratin fibers.

Claims (17)

A process for bleaching keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising, sequentially:
a) the application to said keratin fibers of at least one composition C comprising:
i) at least one alkali agent AA1;
ii) at least one peroxygenated salt S1; and
iii) hydrogen peroxide; and
b) the application to said keratin fibers of at least one composition F comprising:
i) hydrogen peroxide;
ii) optionally at least one AA2 alkali, and
in which composition F is devoid of peroxygenated salt,
it being understood that step a) may be followed by step b) or step a) may be preceded by step b), preferably step a) is followed by step b). A process according to claim 1, characterized in that the alkali agent(s) AA1 and AA2, identical or different, are chosen independently of each other from ammonium salts, such as ammonium chloride, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonates, alkali or alkaline earth metal (meta)silicates, alkanolamines, compounds containing a guanidine function, ammonium hydroxide and mixtures thereof, preferably from alkali or alkaline earth metal (meta)silicates, such as sodium (meta)silicate and alkali or alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonates, such as magnesium carbonate hydroxide, ammonium salts such as ammonium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the alkali agent(s) AA1 ranges from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 3 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, even more preferably from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the peroxygenated salt(s) S1 are selected from persulfates, preferably from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, better from ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, and mixtures thereof. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of peroxygenated salts S1 ranges from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 45% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 35%, even more preferably from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of hydrogen peroxide in composition C ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better from 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total hydrogen peroxide content in composition F ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4 to 10% by weight, better from 0.5 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the alkali agent(s) AA2, when present in composition F, ranges from 1 to 60% by weight, preferably from 2 to 55% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 50% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 45% by weight, better from 10 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the application of composition C is followed by a setting time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 15 to 35 minutes, more preferably 20 to 30 minutes. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition C is at least partially removed from the keratin fibers, before the application of composition F, it being understood that step (a) is carried out before step (b). A method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that composition F is at least partially removed from the keratin fibers, before the application of composition C, it being understood that step (b) is carried out before step (a). A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the application of composition F is followed by a setting time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 15 to 35 minutes, more preferably 20 to 30 minutes. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a step of extemporaneously mixing at the time of use a composition A comprising at least one alkaline agent AA1 as defined in claim 1 or 2, at least one peroxygenated salt S1 as defined in claim 1 or 4, and a composition B comprising at least hydrogen peroxide to obtain composition C, and then applying said composition C to the keratin fibers in step a). A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition(s) C and/or F further comprise at least one fat, preferably selected from liquid fats, solid fats and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from mineral oils, solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, in particular liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular paraffin or petrolatum oil, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 10 and 12 to 14, characterized in that step (b) is repeated at least once. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 10 and 12 to 15, characterized in that in step (a), composition C is applied to a part of the hair, preferably to strands and, in step (b), composition F is applied to all the hair in the head. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition C is at least partially removed from the keratin fibers before the application of composition F or composition F is at least partially removed from the keratin fibers before the application of composition C, said removal being carried out by scraping, rinsing or by application of a shampoo, preferably by scraping.