FR3160557A1 - Anhydrous composition comprising polyols, monoalcohols, fatty amines and a thickening agent - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising polyols, monoalcohols comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, fatty amines and a thickening agent. The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of such a composition. The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the treatment of keratin fibers, and more particularly for conditioning hair.

Description

Anhydrous composition comprising polyols, monoalcohols, fatty amines and a thickening agent Technical field of the invention

The invention relates to an anhydrous composition comprising one or more polyols, one or more monoalcohols, one or more fatty amines, as well as one or more thickening agents, preferably non-ionic. More particularly, the composition is a cosmetic composition, intended for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular hair, and more particularly still for conditioning hair. The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, using said cosmetic composition .

Hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, as well as by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and/or straightening, or even repeated washing.

The hair is thus damaged by these different factors and can in the long run become dry, rough, brittle or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends.

To overcome these drawbacks, it is common to use hair care products that use compositions intended to condition the hair by providing it with satisfactory cosmetic properties, including smoothing, shine, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and good detangling properties. These hair care compositions, intended to be applied regularly to the hair, may be, for example, conditioners, masks or serums, and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions and care creams of varying thickness.

Existing products on the market can have a thick texture and therefore be difficult to pick up, apply and distribute throughout the hair.

In addition, users are increasingly looking for products that include mainly ingredients of natural origin.

The aim of the present invention is to provide cosmetic compositions, in particular hair compositions, which are advantageously in a slightly gelled liquid form (which means slightly thickened), allowing the formation of a lamellar phase on contact with water. These compositions are particularly useful in the field of hair care and/or conditioning; in particular rinse-out treatments preferably for fine hair and/or sensitized hair. In particular, the slightly gelled texture transforms into a creamy texture during application to damp hair.

In order to meet the needs of users, according to the present invention, a composition is proposed which provides very good cosmetic performance, with improved detangling, smoothness to the touch, softness, flexibility, shine, discipline, while remaining light. Also, the present invention makes it possible to provide improved usage properties, in particular a texture which facilitates its application, homogeneous distribution as well as improved rinsing, in particular faster. More particularly, the slightly gelled texture of the compositions according to the invention gives them better handling and more precision at the time of application to the area to be treated compared to more liquid compositions which flow too quickly. Thus, these slightly gelled type compositions make it possible to use less product while presenting very good cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of shine, softness and smoothness to the touch.

The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e., products whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern in helping to address global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions that will help address these environmental challenges.

In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of raw materials of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

These objectives can be achieved in whole or in part by the compositions according to the invention.

In a first aspect, the invention relates to an anhydrous composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular hair composition, comprising:

(i) one or more polyols;

(ii) one or more monoalcohols comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

(iii) one or more fatty amines;

(iv) one or more thickening agents, preferably non-ionic.

The term “anhydrous” means that the composition comprises at most 5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at most 3% by weight of water, better still at most 2% by weight of water, even better still at most 1% by weight of water. Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of water (0%).

In a second aspect, the invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

In a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above for the treatment of keratin fibers, and more particularly the conditioning of hair. Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

In the following, and unless otherwise indicated:

The limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, notably in the expressions “between”, “ranging from … to …” and “comprising … to …”.

The expression “at least one” as used in this description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

By "keratin fibers" is meant fibers of human or animal origin such as hair, body hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, wool, angora, cashmere or fur. According to the present invention, the keratin fibers are preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably head hair.

1/ Polyols i)

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more polyols.

The term "polyol" means a polyhydric alcohol, i.e., a hydrocarbon chain containing two or more hydroxyl groups (-OH). The polyol may have an aliphatic or cyclic or even aromatic molecular structure, linear or branched, and may be saturated or unsaturated.

Preferably, said polyol(s) are linear and saturated; they may comprise from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups (-OH), in particular from 2 to 4, better still from 2 to 3, preferentially 2 hydroxyl groups (-OH).

They can contain from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, especially from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

They do not include oxyalkylene or glycerolated groups.

They are advantageously liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1 atm).

Preferably, the polyols according to the invention comprise 2 -OH groups (diols) and 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and are linear and saturated.

Preferably, they can be chosen from propylene glycol (propane 1,2-diol), propane 1,3-diol, butylene glycol (butane 1,3-diol), butane 2,3-diol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol (pentane 1,2-diol), and mixtures thereof. Very preferably, the polyol is propylene glycol.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises said polyol(s) in a total amount ranging from 1 to 95% by weight, better still from 50 to 85% by weight, or even from 60 to 80% by weight, preferentially from 65 to 75% by weight, and even better still from 70 to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more linear and saturated C2-C6 diols in a total amount ranging from 1 to 95% by weight, better still from 50 to 85% by weight, or even from 60 to 80% by weight, preferentially from 65 to 75% by weight, and even better still from 70 to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises propylene glycol in a total amount ranging from 1 to 95% by weight, better still from 50 to 85% by weight, or even from 60 to 80% by weight, preferably from 65 to 75% by weight, and even better still from 70 to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2/ Monoalcohols ii)

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more monoalcohols comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

By "monoalcohol" we mean a molecule containing only one hydroxyl group (-OH), generally of the formula R-OH in which R is a C1-C6 hydrocarbon chain, aliphatic or cyclic or even aromatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

The OH radical can be in the primary, secondary or tertiary position.

Preferably, said monoalcohol(s) are linear and saturated. They may comprise from 2 to 4 carbon atoms. They do not comprise oxyalkylenated or glycerolated groups.

Preferably, the monoalcohol is chosen from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, and their mixtures; preferably ethanol.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises said C1-C6 monoalcohol(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, better still from 10 to 40% by weight, or even from 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises ethanol in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, better still from 10 to 40% by weight, or even from 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the weight ratio between the total quantity of polyols (i) and the total quantity of C1-C6 monoalcohols (ii) is advantageously greater than or equal to 1, better between 1 and 20, even better between 2 and 10, or even between 3 and 6.

Preferably, the total amount of polyol(s) (i) and C1-C6 monoalcohols (ii) (i.e. (i) + (ii)) ranges from 70 to 98% by weight, preferably from 75 to 95% by weight, better still from 80 to 92% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3/ Fatty amines iii)

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amines.

Fatty amine means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or their salts and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

Preferably, the fatty amines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

The fatty amines that can be used in the context of the invention may be fatty amidoamines, tertiary fatty amines or a mixture of these compounds.

As fatty amidoamines, mention may be made of fatty amidoamines in which the C6-C30 fatty chain can be carried by the amine group or by the amido group.

Amidoamine means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

Fatty amidoamine means an amidoamine comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition (which does not exclude the fact that they can quaternize in situ).

Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

Among the amidoamines that may be used in the context of the invention, mention may be made of the amidoamines of formula (A): RCONHR''N(R') ₂ (A)

in which:

- R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH); preferably a linear or branched C5-C29, better still C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a C5-C29, better still C7-C23, alkenyl radical; preferentially a linear or branched, saturated radical or radical comprising double unsaturation (C=C) at C7-C23;

- R’’ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably linear, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms; better still 3 carbon atoms; and

- R’, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; preferably, a methyl or ethyl radical.

Preferably, in formula (A):

- R’ are identical and represent a methyl group;

- R’’ represents a linear divalent hydrocarbon radical, having 2 to 4 carbon atoms; better still 3 carbon atoms and

- R represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or comprising unsaturation (C=C), in C7-C23.

• L’oléamidopropyl diméthylamine,
• La stéaramidopropyl diméthylamine,
• L’isostéaramidopropyl diméthylamine,
• La stéaramidoéthyl diméthylamine,
• La lauramidopropyl diméthylamine,
• La myristamidopropyl diméthylamine,
• La behénamidopropyl diméthylamine,
• La dilinoléamidopropyl diméthylamine,
• La palmitamidopropyl diméthylamine,
• La ricinoléamindopropyl diméthylamine,
• La soyamidopropyl diméthylamine,
• L’avocadoamidopropyl diméthylamine,
• La cocamidopropyl diméthylamine,
• La minkamidopropyl diméthylamine,
• L’oatamidopropyl diméthylamine,
• La sesamidopropyl diméthylamine,
• La tallamidopropyl diméthylamine,
• L’olivamidopropyl diméthylamine,
• La palmitamidopropyl diméthylamine,
• La stéaramidoethyl diéthylamine,
• La brassicamidopropyl diméthylamine.

The amidoamines of formula (A) can be chosen from, alone or in mixture, the following compounds:

• Oleamidopropyl dimethylamine,
• Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine,
• Isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine,
• Stearamidoethyl dimethylamine,
• Lauramidopropyl dimethylamine,
• Myristamidopropyl dimethylamine,
• Behenamidopropyl dimethylamine,
• Dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine,
• Palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine,
• Ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine,
• Soyamidopropyl dimethylamine,
• Avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine,
• Cocamidopropyl dimethylamine,
• Minkamidopropyl dimethylamine,
• Oatamidopropyl dimethylamine,
• Sesamidopropyl dimethylamine,
• Tallamidopropyl dimethylamine,
• Olivamidopropyl dimethylamine,
• Palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine,
• Stearamidoethyl diethylamine,
• Brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.

Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof. Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is particularly preferred.

As tertiary fatty amines, mention may be made in particular of tertiary fatty amines of formula (B): RN(R') ₂

in which:

- R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30, preferably C8-C24 alkyl radical; preferably a linear or branched C6-C30, better still C8-C24 alkyl radical; or a linear or branched C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, alkenyl radical; and

- R’, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; preferably, a methyl radical.

The following compounds may be mentioned as fatty amines corresponding to formula (B): dimethyllauramine, dimethylbehenamine, dimethylcocamine, dimethylmyristamine, dimethylpalmitamine, dimethylstearamine, dimethyltallowamine, dimethylsoyamine and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amines chosen from fatty amidoamines, in particular corresponding to formula (A) as defined above, and more particularly chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the fatty amine(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, or even from 1 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises the fatty amidoamine(s), in particular of formula (A) as defined above, in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, or even from 1 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Even better, the composition according to the invention comprises the fatty amidoamine(s) chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof, in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, or even from 1 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises stearamidopropyl dimethylamine in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, or even from 1 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4/ Thickening agents iv)

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more thickening agents, preferably non-ionic.

The thickening agents according to the invention are preferably chosen from thickening polymers, more preferably from non-ionic thickening polymers.

For the purposes of the present invention, thickening polymer means a polymer which, introduced at 1% by weight into an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution containing 30% ethanol, and at pH = 7, makes it possible to achieve a viscosity of at least 100 cps (centipoises), in particular at least 200 cps, preferably at least 500 cps, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 . This viscosity can be measured using a cone/plate viscometer (Haake R600 Rheometer or similar).

The thickening polymers according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin, preferably of natural origin. They may be chosen from thickening acrylic polymers and thickening polysaccharides. A mixture of several thickening polymers may also be used.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term acrylic polymer means a polymer resulting from a polymerization reaction using one or more monomer(s) of structure:

with R ₃ denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical,

and R ₄ denoting a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, an NR ₅ R ₆ radical or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkoxy radical, said radicals being optionally substituted by one or more OH and/or quaternary ammonium radical;

R ₅ and R ₆ denoting, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical, optionally oxyalkylenated, optionally comprising a sulfonic group.

Preferably, R ₃ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical.

The acrylic thickening polymers that can be used in the present invention may be chosen from (meth)acrylic associative polymers; crosslinked homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and C1-C6 alkyl acrylate; nonionic homo- and copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and/or amide type; homopolymers of ammonium acrylate and copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide; homopolymers and copolymers of (meth)acrylamido alkyl(C1-C4) sulfonic acids; homopolymers and copolymers of crosslinked methacryloyloxyalkyl(C1-C4) trialkyl(C1-C4) ammonium.

The thickening agents that may be used in the context of the invention may also be thickening polysaccharides, preferably non-ionic polysaccharides. In the context of the invention, the polysaccharides are also called polymers with sugar units.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “sugar unit” means an oxygenated hydrocarbon compound which has several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.

The sugar units can be optionally modified by substitution, and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.

The sugar units of non-ionic polysaccharides are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; and fructose.

The non-ionic polysaccharide(s) capable of being used in the composition according to the invention is (are) chosen from non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides, associative non-ionic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.

Non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides

Examples of non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides include native gums such as:
(a) exudates from trees or shrubs;
b) gums derived from algae including:
- agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);
(c) gums from seeds or tubers of which:
- guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
- carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
- fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);
- tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);
- konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);
(d) microbial gums including:
- scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);
e) plant extracts including:
- cellulose (polymer of glucose);
- starch (polymer of glucose) and
- inulin.

These polysaccharides can be modified physically or chemically. Physical treatment includes, in particular, temperature.

Chemical treatments include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments also make it possible to obtain non-ionic polymers.

Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.

The non-ionic guar gums that can be used according to the invention can be modified by C1 to C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.

Among the C1 to C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, we can mention by way of example, the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

The hydroxyalkylation rate preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

Such non-ionic guar gums, possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups, are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

Starch molecules can be derived from any plant source of starch, including corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley, peas, or wheat. Hydrolyzates of the starches listed above can also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potatoes.

Starches can be modified chemically or physically: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.

The non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides of the invention may be cellulose polymers not comprising a C10 to C30 fatty chain in their structure.

According to the invention, the term “cellulosic” polymer means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by β-1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

Thus, the cellulose polymers which can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses including in microcrystalline form and cellulose ethers.

Among these cellulose polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

Cellulose esters include inorganic cellulose esters (nitrates, sulfates or phosphates of cellulose, etc.), organic cellulose esters (monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates of cellulose, etc.) and mixed organic/inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and acetatepropionate sulfates. Cellulose ether esters include hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers without a C8 to C30 fatty chain, i.e. “non-associative”, we can cite (C1-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl-(C1-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (e.g. Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (e.g. Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

The non-associative non-ionic polysaccharide(s) may advantageously be chosen from non-ionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain in C8 to C30 and their mixtures, more preferably from hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses and their mixtures, better still hydroxypropylcelluloses and their mixtures.

Associative non-ionic polysaccharides

As non-ionic polysaccharides which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of associative non-ionic polysaccharides.

It is recalled that "associative polymers" are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

Their chemical structure more particularly includes at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

By "hydrophobic group" is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon group comes from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group can come from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. It can also designate a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.

The associative polysaccharides which can be used according to the invention can be chosen from non-ionic associative polysaccharides, preferably from non-ionic associative celluloses and non-ionic associative galactomannan gums.

Preferably, the associative non-ionic polysaccharides are chosen from: (1) celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain; preferably from:

- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8 to C22, such as cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose marketed in particular under the reference NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (C16 alkyls) sold by the company Ashland, or the product Polysurf 67CS sold by the company Ashland,
- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by polyalkylene glycol ether alkyl phenol groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) ether nonyl phenol) sold by the company AMERCHOL,

- and their mixtures;

(2) hydroxypropyl guars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI, the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company RHODIA.

The associative non-ionic polysaccharides may advantageously be chosen from celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, preferably from hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8 to C22.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-ionic thickening agents chosen from non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides, in particular guar gums and cellulose polymers, better still non-ionic cellulose ethers without a C8 to C30 fatty chain. Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, or their mixtures, better still a hydroxypropylcellulose.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises said thickening agent(s), preferably non-ionic, in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more thickening polymers, preferably non-ionic, chosen from thickening acrylic polymers and thickening polysaccharides, and their mixtures, in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a non-associative non-ionic polysaccharide chosen from guar gums and cellulose polymers in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Better still, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more non-ionic cellulose ethers without a C8 to C30 fatty chain and their mixtures, more preferably a hydroxypropylcellulose, in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5/ Fatty alcohol v)

The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more fatty alcohols, preferably one or more solid fatty alcohols.

The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1 atm), and are insoluble in water, that is to say they have a solubility in water of less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight, at 25°C, 1 atm.

Fatty alcohol is an aliphatic alcohol containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl OH group. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

Fatty alcohols are different from the polyols and monoalcohols described above.

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R designating a linear alkyl group (not substituted by one or more OH groups), comprising from 8 to 40, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or in a mixture:

- lauryl alcohol (1-dodecanol);

- myristic alcohol (1-tetradecanol);

- cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol);

- stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol);

- arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol);

- behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol);

- lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol);

- ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol);

- montanyl alcohol (1-octacosanol);

- myricylic alcohol (1-triacontanol).

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from myristic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and their mixtures such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises said fatty alcohol(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 3 to 10% relative to the total weight of the composition.

Better still, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises said solid fatty alcohol(s), preferentially chosen from myristic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol, in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferentially from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of myristic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5/ C1-C6 carboxylic acids vi)

The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more carboxylic acids comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

Preferably, they correspond to the formula (I) below:

in which:

- n is an integer between 0 and 2, better n=0 or 1, preferably n=0;

- A is a monovalent (when n=0) or multivalent (when n is different from 0), saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic, or even aromatic hydrocarbon group, comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl (-OH) and/or amino (NH ₂ ) groups.

In particular, mention may be made of carboxylic acids of formula (I) in which:

- n = 0 and A is a monovalent (C1-C5)alkyl group, in particular (C1-C4)alkyl, better still (C2-C4)alkyl, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl (-OH) and/or amino (NH2) groups, in particular 1 or 2 -OH, preferably 1 -OH; or

- n = 1 and A is a divalent (C1-C4)alkyl group, better (C2-C4)alkyl, substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amino (NH2) groups, in particular 1 or 2 -OH and/or NH2;

- n = 2, and A is a trivalent (C1-C3)alkyl group, better (C2-C3)alkyl, substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amino (NH2) groups, in particular 1 or 2 -OH, preferably 1 -OH.

Preferably, the carboxylic acids can be chosen from:

- lactic acid (n=0 and monovalent A = -CH(OH)CH ₃ )

- tartaric acid (n=1 and divalent A = -CH(OH)-CH(OH)-)

- glutamic acid (n=1 and divalent A = -CH(NH ₂ )-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -)

- citric acid (n=2 and trivalent A = -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ - )

- glycolic acid (n=0 and monovalent A = -CH ₂ (OH)), and

- levulinic acid (n=0 and monovalent A = -CH ₂ CH ₂ C(O)CH ₃ ).

More preferably, the carboxylic acid is chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, levulinic acid and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the carboxylic acid is lactic acid.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the C1-C6 carboxylic acid(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better still ranging from 0.15 to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.2 to 1% by weight, preferentially from 0.25 to 0.75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises lactic acid, glycolic acid and/or levulinic acid in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.15 to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.2 to 1% by weight, preferentially from 0.25 to 0.75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Even better, the composition according to the invention comprises lactic acid in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better still ranging from 0.15 to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.2 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 0.75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6/ Other ingredients

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one or more usual cosmetic ingredients, notably chosen from sunscreens; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidant agents; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; straightening agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; micas, pearlescents, glitter; plasticizing or coalescing agents; pigments; fillers; perfumes; alkalizing or acidifying agents; silanes. A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their quantities, so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition, preferably hair composition, may comprise:

(i) one or more linear and saturated polyols comprising 2 -OH groups and 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably propylene glycol;

preferably in a total amount ranging from 1 to 95% by weight, better still from 50 to 85% by weight, or even from 60 to 80% by weight, preferentially from 65 to 75% by weight, and even better still from 70 to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

(ii) one or more linear and saturated monoalcohols, comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol;

preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, better still from 10 to 40% by weight, or even from 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

(iii) one or more fatty amines, preferably fatty amidoamines; preferably chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof, preferably stearamidopropyl dimethylamine;

preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, or even from 1 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

(iv) one or more thickening agents, preferably non-ionic, preferentially one or more non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides; preferably chosen from cellulose polymers not comprising a C10 to C30 fatty chain in their structure, more preferentially still non-ionic cellulose ethers without a C8 to C30 fatty chain and their mixtures, better still hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses and their mixtures, better still hydroxypropylcelluloses and their mixtures;

preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition, preferably hair composition, further comprises:

(v) one or more fatty alcohols, preferably solid, more preferably still chosen from myristic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and their mixtures such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol;

preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

(vi) one or more carboxylic acids comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular of formula (I), preferably chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, levulinic acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably still lactic acid;

preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better still from 0.15 to 2% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 1% by weight, preferentially from 0.25 to 0.75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not comprise (0%) cationic surfactant with a quaternary ammonium group, such as compounds of the dimethyl dialkyl ammonium type or of the trimethyl alkyl ammonium type, having alkyl chain lengths of C8 to C22 for example, and their salts, in particular halogen, chloride or bromide salts. In particular, it does not comprise (0%) surfactants of the behentrimonium chloride and/or cetrimonium chloride type (behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride and cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride).

The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably wet, having possibly previously been washed with a shampoo.

The cosmetic composition is preferably rinsed after being applied to the keratin fibers, for example with water after a possible application time.

In a certain embodiment, the composition is rinsed immediately, i.e. without observing a setting time.

In another embodiment, the composition is left on the keratin fibers for a leave-on time ranging from 1 minute to 20 minutes.

The keratin fibers are preferably rinsed after application of said cosmetic composition, for example with water.

The method according to the invention is in particular a hair treatment method, which makes it possible, for example, to provide care and/or conditioning to keratin fibers, in particular to hair. More particularly, it is observed that the hair treated according to the method of the invention has good detangling properties, visual and touch smoothness, suppleness, shine, softness, hairline, natural feel and lightness, and more particularly still good properties in terms of smooth feel.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

In the following examples, unless otherwise indicated, the quantities are indicated as a percentage by weight of active ingredient (%MA) relative to the total weight of the final composition.

Example 1

Composition A according to the invention and comparative composition B are prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (in %MA per 100g of composition):

HAS
Invention B
Comparative Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 1.5 0 Cetrimonium chloride 0 1.5 Myristyl alcohol 3 3 Cetearyl alcohol (50/50) 0.5 0.5 Cetyl alcohol 1.5 1.5 Lactic acid 0.5 0.5 Propylene glycol 71.1 71.1 Hydroxypropylcellulose 0.3 0.3 Water 4.5 4.5 Ethanol Qsp 100 Qsp 100

This produces slightly gelled liquid cosmetic compositions, which can be used as a rinse-out conditioner.

Compositions A and B were applied according to the application protocol described below and were evaluated for smooth feel on damp hair.

Application protocol

Strands of moderately sensitized hair of 5.4 g are washed with a DOP shampoo, then rinsed. Compositions A and B are applied in the same manner to said damp strands, kneading the strands of hair with the fingers (5 times), at a rate of 2.5 g of composition for 5.4 g of strand.

Then the hair is rinsed under water by passing it between the fingers (21 times), then wrung out between the fingers (5 times). The performance in terms of smoothness is evaluated on damp hair after detangling.

The strands are then dried with a hairdryer (60°C for 5 minutes), then detangled in order to be evaluated on other cosmetic criteria.

Smooth touch:

The test involves performing a tactile assessment of strands on damp hair. The expert grasps the strand between their thumb and forefinger and slides their fingers along the strand from the top to the tips. They assess whether the hair is soft, has no rough edges, and does not snag their fingers.

The overall smoothness performance on damp hair is assessed blindly, after detangling the strands, by 6 experts using a scale from 0 (very poor) to 5 (very good): 0 = very poor, 0.5 = very poor/poor, 1 = poor, 1.5 = poor/fairly poor, 2 = fair, 2.5 = average, 3 = fair, 3.5 = fair/good, 4 = good, 4.5 = good/very good, 5 = very good.

Additionally, the experts' scores are ranked and assigned a 'rank'. Rank 1 is assigned to the best-performing strand, rank 2 to the worst-performing strand.

The results are summarized in the tables below.

A (invention) B (comparative) Rank A Rank B Expert 1 3 2 1 2 Expert 2 4 3 1 2 Expert 3 3 2 1 2 Expert 4 3 2.5 1 2 Expert 5 3 2 1 2 Expert 6 3 2 1 2 Average 3.17 2.25 ∑ranks 6 12

It was found that in 100% of cases, composition A was judged to be superior to composition B in terms of smoothness.

The average value of the scores obtained shows an improvement in the smoothness to the touch when composition A (according to the invention) is applied compared to composition B.

According to Kramer's tables, composition A is significantly more efficient in terms of smoothness than composition B (Kramer A, Food Technology , December 1963, p124-125, values for 2 strands to be evaluated by 6 experts).

Example 2

Composition C according to the invention is prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (in %MA per 100g of composition):

C
(invention) Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 2 Fatty alcohols (myristic, cetyl, stearyl) 5 Lactic acid 0.5 Propylene glycol 71 Hydroxypropylcellulose 0.8 Water 0.05 Ethanol Qsp 100

Composition C according to the invention has excellent cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of shine and softness of the treated strands.

Claims (17)

Anhydrous composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular hair composition, comprising:
(i) one or more polyols;
(ii) one or more monoalcohols comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
(iii) one or more fatty amines;
(iv) one or more thickening agents, preferably non-ionic. Composition according to claim 1, in which the polyol(s) are linear and saturated, comprise from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, in particular from 2 to 4, better still from 2 to 3, preferentially 2 hydroxyl groups; better still comprise 2 -OH groups and 2 to 6 carbon atoms and are linear and saturated; even better still are chosen from propylene glycol (propane 1,2-diol), propane 1,3-diol, butylene glycol (butane 1,3-diol), butane 2,3-diol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol (pentane 1,2-diol), and mixtures thereof; preferentially, the polyol is propylene glycol. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the polyol(s) are present in a total amount ranging from 1 to 95% by weight, better still from 50 to 85% by weight, or even from 60 to 80% by weight, preferably from 65 to 75% by weight, and even better still from 70 to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, in which the monoalcohol(s) comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms are of formula R-OH in which R is a C1-C6 hydrocarbon chain, aliphatic or cyclic or even aromatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; preferably are chosen from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, and their mixtures; preferentially ethanol. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, in which the C1-C6 monoalcohol(s) are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, better still from 10 to 40% by weight, or even from 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, in which the weight ratio between the total quantity of polyols (i) and the total quantity of C1-C6 monoalcohols (ii) is greater than or equal to 1, better between 1 and 20, even better between 2 and 10, or even between 3 and 6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty amine(s) are chosen from fatty amidoamines, tertiary fatty amines and a mixture of these compounds; and particularly from
(i) amidoamines of formula A: RCONHR''N(R') ₂ (A)
in which:
- R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH); preferably a linear or branched C5-C29, better still C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a C5-C29, better still C7-C23, alkenyl radical; preferentially a linear or branched, saturated radical or radical comprising double unsaturation (C=C) at C7-C23;
- R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably linear, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms; better still 3 carbon atoms; and
- R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; preferably, a methyl or ethyl radical;
better among oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof;
(ii) tertiary fatty amines of formula (B): RN(R') ₂ in which:
- R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30, preferably C8-C24 alkyl radical; preferably a linear or branched C6-C30, better still C8-C24 alkyl radical; or a linear or branched C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, alkenyl radical; and
- R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; preferably, a methyl radical;
best among dimethyllauramine, dimethylbehenamine, dimethylcocamine, dimethylmyristamine, dimethylpalmitamine, dimethylstearamine, dimethyltallowamine, dimethylsoyamine and mixtures thereof. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, in which the fatty amine(s) are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.25 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, or even from 1 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, in which the thickening agent(s) are chosen from thickening polymers, preferably from thickening acrylic polymers, thickening polysaccharides and mixtures thereof. Composition according to claim 9 in which the thickening polymers are non-ionic thickening polymers, preferably non-ionic polysaccharides, more preferably still chosen from non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides, associative non-ionic polysaccharides and their mixtures, better still chosen from non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides, better still chosen from non-ionic guar gums and cellulose polymers not comprising a C10 to C30 fatty chain in their structure, more preferably still non-ionic cellulose ethers without a C8 to C30 fatty chain and their mixtures, better still hydroethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses and their mixtures, better still hydroxypropylcelluloses and their mixtures. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, further comprising one or more fatty alcohols, preferably one or more solid fatty alcohols, more preferably still one or more fatty alcohols chosen from myristic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Composition according to claim 11, in which the fatty alcohol(s) are present in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more carboxylic acids comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and corresponding to formula (I):
in which:
- n is an integer between 0 and 2, better n=0 or 1, preferably n=0;
- A is a monovalent (when n=0) or multivalent (when n is different from 0), saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic, or even aromatic hydrocarbon group, comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl (-OH) and/or amino (NH ₂ ) groups; in particular in which:
- n=0 and A is a monovalent (C1-C5)alkyl group, in particular (C1-C4)alkyl, better still (C2-C4)alkyl, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl (-OH) and/or amino (NH ₂ ) groups, in particular 1 or 2 -OH, preferably 1 -OH; or
- n = 1 and A is a divalent (C1-C4)alkyl group, better (C2-C4)alkyl, substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amino (NH ₂ ) groups, in particular 1 or 2 -OH and/or NH2;
- n = 2, and A is a trivalent (C1-C3)alkyl group, better (C2-C3)alkyl, substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amino (NH ₂ ) groups, in particular 1 or 2 -OH, preferably 1 -OH, preferentially chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, levulinic acid and their mixtures; even more preferentially the carboxylic acid is lactic acid. Composition according to claim 13, in which the C1-C6 carboxylic acid(s) are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, better still ranging from 0.15 to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.2 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 0.75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at most 3% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, better still at most 2% by weight of water, even better still at most 1% by weight of water, and preferably the composition is free of water (0%). Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined in one of claims 1 to 15. Use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 15, for the treatment of keratin fibers, and more particularly for conditioning the hair.