FR3158647A1 - Composition comprising at least one extract of a plant of the Fagaceae family, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid or its derivatives and at least one phosphonic derivative - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprising at least one extract of a plant of the Fagaceae family, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid or its derivatives, and at least one phosphonic derivative The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of at least one plant of the Fagaceae family, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid and/or its derivatives, and at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I) (I) where R represents a linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10. The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular a non-therapeutic method, comprising the application to keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, as well as the use of said composition to treat and/or prevent oily or oily-prone skin and/or associated aesthetic skin defects.

Description

Composition comprising at least one extract of a plant of the Fagaceae family, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid or its derivatives and at least one phosphonic derivative

The present invention relates to the field of care of keratin materials, in particular skin care, more particularly the care of oily or oily-prone skin as well as the aesthetic skin defects associated with such skin.

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of at least one plant of the Fagaceae family, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid and/or its derivatives, and at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I). The invention further relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular a non-therapeutic method, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, for treating and/or preventing oily or oily-prone skin and/or the associated aesthetic skin defects. The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use, in particular a non-therapeutic use, of a composition according to the invention for treating and/or preventing oily or oily-prone skin and/or the associated aesthetic skin defects.

Sebum normally constitutes a moisturizing agent of the epidermis and can be involved in epidermal homeostasis, and in particular in the proliferation and/or differentiation of epidermal cells.

It is the natural product of the sebaceous gland, which constitutes an annex of the pilosebaceous unit. It is essentially a more or less complex mixture of lipids. Classically, the sebaceous gland produces squalene, triglycerides, aliphatic waxes, cholesterol waxes and, possibly, free cholesterol (Stewart, M. E., Semin Dermatol 11, 100-105(1992)). The action of bacterial lipases converts a variable proportion of the triglycerides formed into free fatty acids.

The sebocyte is the competent cell of the sebaceous gland. Sebum production is associated with a terminal differentiation program of this cell. During this differentiation, the metabolic activity of the sebocyte is essentially focused on lipid biosynthesis (lipogenesis) and more specifically on fatty acid neosynthesis.

Oily or hyperseborrheic skin is characterized, in particular, by excessive sebum secretions and excretions. Classically, a sebum level higher than 200 µg/cm2 measured on the forehead is considered characteristic of such oily skin. Such skin is often associated with dilated pores. The appearance and/or visibility of pores is also a characteristic of oily skin. The shine of the skin is also linked to the dilation of pores, hence the interest in finding active ingredients to reduce the size of dilated pores, a manifestation perceived as skin imperfections or aesthetic defects.

Such skin is also often associated with a thick skin texture, an alteration of the skin surface which may be a consequence of the lack of desquamation, such as a state of roughness of the skin, an irregular relief, manifestations perceived as skin imperfections or aesthetic defects.

To combat hyperseborrhea, various compounds have already been proposed which, when applied topically to the skin, are likely to reduce lipogenesis at the level of sebocytes and consequently limit sebum production. The treatments currently available for hyperseborrhea are not entirely satisfactory, particularly in view of the side effects frequently associated with them, such as irritation with certain topicals such as retinoids and benzoylperoxides.

There therefore remains a need for new active ingredients capable of exerting a beneficial cosmetic action on oily or oily-prone skin and/or associated aesthetic skin defects, in particular a beneficial cosmetic action on skin imperfections.

The present invention aims to solve the aforementioned technical problems.

The applicant has discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that a composition comprising an extract of at least one plant of the Fagaceae family, such as a bud extract of Fagus sylvatica , two α-hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, a β-hydroxy acid such as salicylic acid, and a phosphonic derivative such as phytic acid, allows better inhibition of the production of lipids by sebocytes in comparison with each of the compounds taken separately or with such a composition in the absence of lactic acid. The composition according to the invention thus proves to be useful for effectively preventing and/or treating oily or oily-prone skin and/or associated aesthetic skin defects, in particular with skin imperfections.

The composition according to the invention also has desquamating properties.

The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to improve the radiance of the skin, the evenness of the complexion, the softness of the skin; to reduce the size of the pores of the skin.

The present invention therefore has as its first subject a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of at least one plant of the Fagaceae family, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid and/or its derivatives, and at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I)

(I)

where R represents an alkyl radical, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10.

The second subject of the invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, to treat and/or prevent oily or oily-prone skin and/or associated aesthetic skin defects.

A third object of the invention is the cosmetic use, in particular non-therapeutic use, of a composition according to the invention for treating and/or preventing oily or oily-prone skin and/or associated aesthetic skin defects.

Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows.

Definitions

“Keratin materials” means the skin of the body or face, lips, mucous membranes, eyelashes, nails, and hair of a human being.

By “skin” is meant the entire skin of the body and the scalp of a human being and preferably, the skin of the face, décolleté, neck, arms and forearms, hands or even more preferably, the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, lips, chin), décolleté and neck.

By “physiologically acceptable medium” is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin.

As used herein, the terms "treat" and "treatment" are intended to mean the alleviation of symptoms associated with a specific condition and/or the elimination of such symptoms and the complete disappearance of the condition in question.

In the context of the present invention, the terms "prevent" and "prevention" mean the reduction to a lesser degree of the risk or probability of occurrence of a given phenomenon.

By “topical use or application” is meant a use or application on the surface of the keratin materials in question, preferably on the surface of the skin in question.

Detailed description Composition

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of at least one plant of the Fagaceae family, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid and/or its derivatives, and at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I):

(I)

where R represents an alkyl radical, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10.

Extract from at least one plant of the Fagaceae family

The Fagaceae family, formerly Cupuliferae, includes dicotyledonous plants. It includes 7 to 9 genera, the best known being Castanea (chestnut), Fagus (beech), Quercus (oak).

More specifically, the genus Fagus (beech) includes about ten species of beech in Europe, Asia and America. The most widespread species in Europe is Fagus sylvatica .

Advantageously, said extract is an extract of at least one plant of the genus Fagus , more preferably, said extract is an extract of at least one plant chosen from the species Fagus crenata , Fagus engleriana , Fagus grandifolia , Fagus hayatae , Fagus japonica , Fagus longipetiolata , Fagus lucida , Fagus orientalis , Fagus sinensis , Fagus sylvatica , even better said extract is an extract of at least one plant of the species Fagus sylvatica such as Fagus sylvatica L.

Advantageously, said extract of at least one plant is an extract of a part of the plant chosen from bark, leaves, branches, buds, preferably buds.

More preferably, said extract of at least one plant is an extract of one or more bud(s) of a plant of the species Fagus sylvatica .

Even more preferably, said extract of at least one plant is an extract of one or more bud(s) of a plant of the species Fagus sylvatica L.

Said extract can be obtained from a preliminary stabilization step, in particular by Ultra High Frequencies (UHF) of the harvested plant or part of the plant, preferably buds, such as that described in European patent EP 0470017 (Gattefosse SA, corresponding to American patent US 6270773, Pourrat et al.), entitled: Process for stabilizing vegetable plants.

This stabilization step ensures that the composition of the final extract is the same as that of the fresh plant.

Any extraction method known to those skilled in the art may be used to prepare an extract according to the invention.

As extracts suitable for the invention, mention may be made of aqueous, alcoholic or organic solvent extracts.

An aqueous solvent is any solvent consisting entirely or partly of water. Examples include water itself, hydroalcoholic solvents in any proportion, or solvents consisting of water and a compound such as propylene glycol in any proportion. Alcoholic solvents include ethanol.

Extraction can be done at room temperature, cold or by heating between 40°C and 100°C.

An extraction method suitable for the invention may comprise a first step of grinding a plant or part of a plant such as a bud, from the Fagaceae family, preferably a plant or part of a plant such as a bud, from the genus Fagus , even better a plant or part of a plant such as a bud, from the species Fagus sylvatica , in a cold aqueous solution, then a second step of removing suspended particles from the aqueous solution from the first step, and a third step of sterilizing the aqueous solution from the second step. This aqueous solution corresponds to an extract.

The resulting extract can then be freeze-dried using any standard freeze-drying method. This produces a powder that can be used directly or mixed in a suitable solvent before use.

For example, we can cite an extract of beech bud ( Fagus sylvatica ) such as that marketed under the name GATULINE RC SPO BIO® by the company GATTEFOSSE.

Said extract of at least one plant of the Fagaceae family may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.00001% to 1% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.00002% to 0.5% by dry weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.00003% to 0.1% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

α-hydroxy acids

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “at least two α-hydroxy acids” means at least two distinct α-hydroxy acids.

Advantageously, said at least two α-hydroxy acids are chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably, said at least two α-hydroxy acids are chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof, even better said at least two α-hydroxy acids are lactic acid and glycolic acid.

It being understood that the composition according to the invention may comprise other α-hydroxy acids, in addition to said two α-hydroxy acids.

We can notably mention glycolic acid marketed under the name GLYCOLIC ACID 70% (70% glycolic acid in water) by the company GUANGAN CHENGXIN CHEMICAL.

In addition, we can mention lactic acid marketed under the name PURAC ULTRAPURE (90% lactic acid in water) by the company CORBION PRODUTOS RENOVAVEIS.

Said at least two α-hydroxy acids may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 15% by weight, even better from 0.03% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

• l’acide glycolique est présent dans la composition selon l’invention en une teneur allant de 0,005% à 15%en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence en une teneur allant de 0,01% à 7,5% en poids, encore mieux en une teneur allant de 0,014% à 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition ; et
• l’acide lactique est présent dans la composition selon l’invention en une teneur allant de 0,005% à 15% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence en une teneur allant de 0,01% à 7,5% en poids, encore mieux en une teneur allant de 0,016% à 5%en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.

More preferably, when said at least two α-hydroxy acids are glycolic acid and lactic acid, then:

• glycolic acid is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 7.5% by weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.014% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and
• lactic acid is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 7.5% by weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.016% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

β-hydroxy acid and/or its derivatives

Advantageously, the β-hydroxy acids are chosen from salicylic acid and salicylic acid derivatives of the following formula (II):

(II)

• le radical Ra désigne :
  • une chaîne aliphatique ayant de 2 à 22 atomes de carbone, saturée, linéaire, ramifiée ou cyclique ;
  • une chaîne insaturée ayant de 2 à 22 atomes de carbone contenant une ou plusieurs doubles liaisons pouvant être conjuguées ;
  • un noyau aromatique lié au radical carbonyle directement ou par l’intermédiaire de chaînes aliphatiques saturées ou insaturées ayant de 2 à 7 atomes de carbone ;

in which:

• the radical Ra designates:
  • an aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated, linear, branched or cyclic;
  • an unsaturated chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds which may be conjugated;
  • an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms;

• Rb est un groupe hydroxyle ;

said groups being able to be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from: (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

• Rb is a hydroxyl group;

as well as their salts from a mineral or organic base and their mixtures.

• une chaîne aliphatique saturée, linéaire, ramifiée ou cyclique contenant de 3 à 11 atomes de carbone ; ou
• une chaîne insaturée contenant de 3 à 17 atomes de carbone et comprenant une ou plusieurs doubles liaisons conjuguées ou non ;

According to one embodiment, the radical Ra denotes:

• a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; or
• an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds;

said hydrocarbon chains may be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from: (a) halogen atoms; (b) the trifluoromethyl group; (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

as well as their salts obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base.

The more particularly preferred compounds are those in which the radical Ra is a C3-C11 alkyl group. Among the particularly preferred compounds of formula (II), mention may be made of: n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-heptyloxy 5-salicylic acid and their corresponding salts.

The salicylic acid compound is advantageously chosen from salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid. More particularly, n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid will be used. N-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid) is offered under the name MEXORYL SAB® by CHIMEX.

Examples of mineral bases include alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia. Among the organic bases, amines and alkanolamines may be mentioned. Quaternary salts such as those described in patent FR 2 607 498 are particularly interesting. The compounds of formula (II) which can be used according to the invention are described in patents US 6,159,479, US 5,558,871, FR 2,581,542, FR 2 607 498, US 4,767,750, EP 378,936, US 5,267,407, US 5,667,789, US 5,580,549, and EP A-570,230.

Preferably, said at least one β-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid such as that marketed under the name SALICYLIC ACID by the company JQC (HUAYIN) PHARMACEUTICAL.

Said β-hydroxy-acid(s) and/or its derivatives may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 2% by weight, even better from 0.001% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Phosphonic derivative

By alkyl radical is meant a linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 7 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the alkyl radical is unsubstituted.

More preferably, the alkyl radical is linear saturated cyclic.

According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the alkyl radical is the cyclohexyl radical.

Preferably, n is an integer between 4 and 8, preferably between 5 and 7. Preferably, n = 6.

Preferably, the phosphonic derivatives of formula (I) are such that R represents a saturated cyclic linear alkyl radical, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 7 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10, preferably between 4 and 8, preferably between 5 and 7 such as 6.

Preferably, the phosphonic derivative of formula (I) is phytic acid.

For example, we can cite the compound sold by TSUNO RICE FINE CHEMICALS

under the name “PHYTIC ACID”.

Said phosphonic derivative may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.0005% to 1% by weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Physiologically acceptable environment

In addition to the compounds indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

By “physiologically acceptable medium” is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the aspect in which the composition is to be packaged.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention are preferably in the form of an aqueous phase and a non-emulsified fatty phase, in particular in the form of a two-phase.

The physiologically acceptable medium may include water and optionally one or more water-miscible solvent(s).

According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least 20% by weight of water, in particular at least 40% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a water content ranging from 20% to 98% by weight, even better from 40% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a water content ranging from 75% to 98% by weight, even better from 80% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

.

Among the water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature - 25°C) there may be mentioned alcohols, in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and caprylyl glycol; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, and glycerin.

The water-miscible organic solvent(s) may be present in a concentration of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight and more preferably 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one fatty substance such as one or more oil(s).

According to one embodiment, the composition may comprise from 0.1% to 50% by weight of fatty substances, preferably oil(s), and preferably from 0.5% to 40% of fatty substances, preferably oil(s), by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition may comprise from 0.1% to 50% by weight of fatty substances, preferably oil(s), and preferably from 0.5% to 20% of fatty substances, preferably oil(s), by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, “oil” means a liquid compound at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa), immiscible with water.

By "immiscible" is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. Observation is made visually or using a phase contrast microscope if necessary, on 100 g of mixture obtained after Rayneri stirring sufficient to cause a vortex to appear within the mixture (as an indication 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture is left to stand, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions. A hydrocarbon oil therefore does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms.

By “silicone oil” is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

The term “fluorinated oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

By "non-polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant a hydrocarbon oil comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms, preferably non-aromatic (also called hydrocarbon).

The term “polar hydrocarbon oil” means hydrocarbon oils comprising mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.

In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from volatile oils and non-volatile oils.

Volatile oils

By "volatile oil" is meant an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular, having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mm Hg), and preferably, ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

According to one embodiment of the invention, the volatile oils are such that the flash points are less than 120°C and the vapor pressure is less than 5 Pa, more particularly the flash point of which is less than 90°C and the vapor pressure is greater than 1 Pa, even more preferably the flash point of which is less than or equal to 60°C and the vapor pressure is greater than 5 Pa and even more preferably the flash point of which is less than 60°C and the vapor pressure is greater than 100 Pa.

The volatile oil(s) may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils such as:

• les alcanes ramifiés en C8-C16 comme les isoalcanes comme les iso-alcanes (appelées aussi isoparaffines) telles que les C8-C9 Isoparaffine, C13-C16 Isoparaffine, l'isododécane, l'isodécane, l'isohexadécane, et par exemple les huiles vendues sous les noms commerciaux d'Isopars ou de Permetyls, seuls ou en mélanges, de préférence l’isododécane (encore appelé 2,2,4,4,6-pentaméthylheptane), par exemple commercialisé par INEOS, plus préférentiellement l’isododécane ;
• les alcanes linéaires en C6-C16, seuls ou en mélanges, par exemple tels que l’hexane, le décane, l’undécane, le tridécane, les isoparaffines comme, ou le n-dodécane (C12) et le n-tétradécane (C14) vendus par Sasol respectivement sous les références PARAFOL 12-97 et PARAFOL 14-97, le mélange undécane-tridécane, les mélanges de n-undécane (C11) et de n-tridécane (C13) obtenus aux exemples 1 et 2 de la demande WO 2008/155059 de la Société Cognis, et leurs mélanges ainsi que les mélanges de n-undécane (C11) et de n-tridécane (C13) Cetiol Ultimate® de la société BASF ;
• les alcanes cycliques, non aromatiques, en C5-C12 volatiles ;
• les esters à chaîne courte ayant de 3 à 8 atomes de carbone au total, tels que l’acétate de méthyle, d’éthyle, l'acétate de propyle, l’acétate de n-butyle ou l’acetate d’isobutyle par exemple vendus par SOLVAY, DOW ou OXEA ;
• les huiles hydrocarbonées carbonate volatiles de structure R’1-O-C(O)-O-R’2 dans laquelle R’1 et R’2 identiques ou différents désignent indépendamment un groupe alkyle en C4-C8 linéaire, ramifié ou cyclique, de préférence un groupe alkyle en C4-C8 linéaire. Il peut être préférable que R1 et R2 soient identiques. De préférence R’1 et R’2 désignent un radical alkyle linéaire butyle, un groupe pentyle. Avantageusement, l’huile d’éther est choisie parmi le dibutylcarbonate ou le dipentylcarbonate ;
• les huiles éthers volatiles de formule R1-O-R2 dans laquelle R1 et R2 identiques ou différents désignent indépendamment un groupe alkyle en C4-C8 linéaire, ramifié ou cyclique, de préférence un groupe alkyle en C4-C8 linéaire ou ramifié. Il est préférable que R1 et R2 soient identiques. Comme groupe alkyle linéaire, on peut citer un groupe butyle, un groupe pentyle. Comme groupe alkyle ramifié, on peut citer un groupe 1-méthylpropyle, un groupe 2-méthylpropyle, un groupe t-butyle, un groupe 1,1-diméthylpropyle.

hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular:

• branched C8-C16 alkanes such as isoalkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as C8-C9 Isoparaffin, C13-C16 Isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, alone or in mixtures, preferably isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), for example marketed by INEOS, more preferably isododecane;
• linear C6-C16 alkanes, alone or in mixtures, for example such as hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as, or n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008/155059 from Cognis, and their mixtures as well as the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) Cetiol Ultimate® from BASF;
• volatile, non-aromatic, C5-C12 cyclic alkanes;
• short-chain esters having 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate or isobutyl acetate, for example sold by SOLVAY, DOW or OXEA;
• volatile carbonate hydrocarbon oils of structure R'1-OC(O)-O-R'2 in which R'1 and R'2, identical or different, independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a linear C4-C8 alkyl group. It may be preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical. Preferably R'1 and R'2 denote a linear butyl alkyl radical, a pentyl group. Advantageously, the ether oil is chosen from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate;
• volatile ether oils of formula R1-O-R2 in which R1 and R2, identical or different, independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a linear or branched C4-C8 alkyl group. It is preferable that R1 and R2 are identical. As a linear alkyl group, mention may be made of a butyl group, a pentyl group. As a branched alkyl group, mention may be made of a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group.

The volatile oil(s) may be chosen from silicone volatile oils such as:

silicone oils comprising in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicone oils optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Examples include dodecamethylpentasiloxane such as the DM-FLUID-2cs reference marketed by SHIN-ETSU or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane such as the XIAMETER PMX-0246 CYCLOHEXASILOXANE reference marketed by DOW CHEMICAL.

Non-volatile oils

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil whose vapour pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapour pressure can be measured using the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, depending on the vapour pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104).

The non-volatile oil(s) of the invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural.

• les huiles fluorées non volatiles pouvant notamment être choisies parmi les polyéthers fluorés, ainsi que parmi les huiles fluorosiliconées, les silicones fluorées telles que décrit dans le document EP-A-847752 ;
• les huiles siliconées non volatiles peuvent notamment être choisies parmi les silicones non volatiles de noms INCI suivants : dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl diméthicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone ; ainsi que leurs mélanges.

Non-volatile oils include:

• non-volatile fluorinated oils which may in particular be chosen from fluorinated polyethers, as well as from fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752;
• the non-volatile silicone oils may in particular be chosen from non-volatile silicones with the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone; as well as mixtures thereof.

• les huiles non volatiles hydrocarbonées apolaires pouvant notamment être choisies parmi des composés linéaires ou ramifiés, d’origine minérale ou synthétique telles que par exemple : i) l’huile de paraffine, ii) le squalane tel que la référence NEOSSANCE SQUALANE commercialisée par AMYRIS, l’isoeicosane, iii) les mélanges d’hydrocarbures linéaires, saturés, particulièrement en C14-C30, plus particulièrement en C15-C28, tels que les mélanges dont les noms INCI sont par exemple les suivants : (C15-C19)alcane, (C18-C21)Alcane, (C21-C28)alcane, comme par exemple les produits Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 commercialisés par Total, Emogreen L19 commercialisé par SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 commercialisé par SEPPIC, iv) les polybutènes, hydrogénés ou non, tels que par exemple des produits de la gamme Indopol commercialisés par la société INEOS Oligomers, les produits de nom INCI HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE ; v) les polyisobutènes, hydrogénés ou non, de préférence hydrogénés tels que par exemple les composés non volatiles de la gamme Parléam® commercialisés par la société NIPPON OIL FATS, vi) les polydécènes, hydrogénés ou non, tels que par exemple des composés non volatiles de la gamme PURESYN® commercialisée par la société Exxonmobil), vii) les copolymères décène/butène, les copolymères butène/isobutène et viii) leurs mélanges ;
• les huiles hydrocarbonées non volatiles polaires pouvant être choisies parmi :
  • les alcools gras, saturés, insaturés, linéaires ou ramifiés, en C10-C26, liquides à température ambiante (25°C) de préférence les mono-alcools. Avantageusement, les alcools en C10-C26 sont des alcools gras, de préférence ramifiés lorsqu’ils comprennent au moins 16 atomes de carbone ; de préférence, l’alcool gras comprend de 10 à 24 atomes de carbone, et plus préférentiellement de 12 à 22 atomes de carbone, comme notamment l’alcool laurique, isostéarylique, oléique, le 2-butyloctanol, le 2-undécyl pentadécanol, l’alcool 2-hexyldécylique, l’alcool isocétylique, l’octyldodécanol et leurs mélanges ;
  • les triglycérides constitués d’esters d’acides gras et de glycérol, en particulier dont les acides gras peuvent avoir des longueurs de chaînes variant de C4 à C36, et notamment de C18 à C36, ces huiles pouvant être linéaires ou ramifiées, saturées ou insaturées ; à titre d’exemples, on peut notamment citer les triglycérides héptanoïques ou octanoïques, les triglycérides d’acides caprylique/caprique ; les huiles végétales comme les huiles de germe de blé, de tournesol, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, de maïs, de noyaux d'abricot, de ricin, de karité, d'avocat, d'olive, de soja, d'amande douce, de palme, de colza, de coton, de noisette, de macadamia, de jojoba, de luzerne, de pavot, de potimarron, de courge, de cassis, d’onagre, de millet, d’orge, de quinoa, de seigle, de carthame, de bancoulier, de passiflore, de rosier muscat, d’arachide, de coco, d’argan, de passiflore, de kaya ; la fraction liquide du beurre de karité, et la fraction liquide du beurre de cacao ; ainsi que leurs mélanges ;
  • les esters hydrocarbonés aliphatiques linéaires de formule R-C(O)-OR’ dans laquelle R-C(O)-O- représente le reste d’acide carboxylique comportant de 2 à 40 atomes de carbone, et R’ représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée contenant de 1 à 40 atomes de carbone, les esters hydrocarbonés aliphatiques d’alkylène glycol, en particulier l’éthylène glycol ou propylène glycol ; le nombre total d’atomes de carbone étant avantageusement d’au moins 10. A titre d’exemple de tels esters, on peut citer par exemple, l’isoamyl laurate, l’octanoate de cétostéaryle, le stéarate ou l'isostéarate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'éthyle, le palmitate de 2-éthyl-hexyle, l'isostéarate d'isostéaryle, le stéarate d'octyle, l’heptanoate d’isostéaryle, les octanoates, décanoates ou ricinoléates d'alcools ou de polyalcools comme le dioctanoate de propylène glycol, l'octanoate de cétyle, le coco caprylate caprate, l'octanoate de tridécyle, le palmitate d'éthyle 2-hexyle, le benzoate d'alkyle, le diheptanoate de polyéthylène glycol, le diéthyl 2-d'hexanoate de propylèneglycol et leurs mélanges, le laurate d’hexyle, les esters de l'acide néopentanoïque comme le néopentanoate d'isodécyle, le néopentanoate d'isotridécyle, le néopentanoate d'isostéaryle, le néopentanoate d’octyl-2-docécyle , les esters de l'acide isononanoïque comme l’isononanoate d’isononyle, l’isononanoate d’isotridécyle, l'isononanoate d'octyle, l'érucate d'oléyle; l’isopropyl sarcosinate de lauroyle, le sébaçate de diisopropyle , isocétyl stéarate, isodécyl néopentanoate, l’isostéaryl béhénate, le myristyl myristate ; et leurs mélanges ;
  • les esters hydroxylés tels que le triisostéarate de polyglycérol-2 ;
  • les esters aromatiques tels que le tridécyl trimellitate, le benzoate d’alcools en C12-C15, le 2-phényl éthyl ester de l’acide benzoïque, le butyl octyl salicylate ;les esters d’acides gras linéaires ayant un nombre total de carbone allant de 35 à 70 comme le tétrapélargonate de pentaérythrityle ;
  • les esters d’alcool gras ou d’acides gras ramifiés en C24-C28 tels que le citrate de triisoarachidyle, le tétraisononanoate de pentaérythrityle, le triisostéarate de glycéryle, le tri décyl-2 tétradécanoate de glycéryle, le tétraisostéarate de pentaérythrityle, le tétraisostéarate de polyglycéryle-2 ou encore le tétradécyl-2 tétradécanoate de pentaérythrityle ;
  • les polyesters obtenus par condensation de dimère et/ou trimère d’acide gras insaturé et de diol tels que ceux de nom INCI dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer ; les polyesters obtenus par condensation de dimère d’acide gras et de dimer diol comme le dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate ;
  • éther de synthèse de formule R1-O-R2 dans laquelle R1 et R2 identiques ou différents désignent indépendamment un groupe alkyle en C6-C24 linéaire, ramifié ou cyclique, de préférence un groupe alkyle en C6-C18, et de manière préférée un groupe alkyle en C8-C12. Il peut être préférable que R1 et R2 soient identiques. Comme groupe alkyle linéaire, on peut citer un groupe hexyle, un groupe heptyle, un groupe octyle, un groupe nonyle, un groupe décyle, un groupe undodyle, un groupe dodécyle, un groupe tridécyle, un groupe tétradécyle, un groupe pentadécyle, un groupe hexadécyle, un groupe heptadécyle, un groupe octadécyle, un groupe nonadécyle, un groupe éicosyle, un groupe béhényle, un groupe docosyle, un groupe tricosyle et un groupe tétracosyle. Comme groupe alkyle ramifié, on peut citer un groupe 1,1-diméthylpropyle, un groupe 3-méthylhexyle, un groupe 5-méthylhexyle, un groupe éthylhexyle, un groupe 2-éthylhexyle, un groupe 5-méthyloctyle, un groupe 1-éthylhexyle, un groupe 1-butylpentyle, un groupe 2-butyloctyle, un groupe isotridécyle, un groupe 2-pentylnonyle, un groupe 2-hexyldécyle, un groupe isostéaryle, un groupe 2-heptylundécyle, un groupe 2-octyldodécyle, un groupe 1,3-diméthylbutyle, un groupe 1- (1-méthyléthyle)-2-méthylpropyle, un groupe 1,1,3,3-tétraméthylbutyle, un groupe 3,5,5-triméthylhexyle, un groupe 1- (2-méthylpropyl) -3-méthylbutyle, un groupe 3,7-diméthyloctyyle, et un groupe 2- (1,3,3-triméthylbutyl) -5,7,7-triméthyloctyle. Comme groupe alkyle cyclique, on peut citer un groupe cyclohexyle, un groupe 3-méthylcyclohexyle et un groupe 3,3,5-triméthylcyclohexyle., le dilauryléther, le diisostéaryléther, le dioctyléther, le nonylphényléther, le dodécyl diméthylbutyléther, le cétyl diméthylbutyléther, le cetyl isobutyl ether et leurs mélanges. Parmi les huiles ethers non volatiles on peut citer le le dicaprylyl ether, tel que la référence CETIOL OE commercialisée par BASF ;
  • les carbonates de formule R8-O-C(O)-O-R9, avec R8 et R9, identiques ou différents, représentent une chaîne alkyle en C4 à C12, et préférentiellement de C6 à C10, linéaire ou ramifiée ; les huiles carbonates peuvent être le dicaprylyl carbonate (ou dioctyle carbonate), commercialisé sous la dénomination Cetiol CC® par la société BASF, le di(ethyl–2-hexyl) carbonate, commercialisé sous la dénomination TEGOSOFT DEC® par la société Evonik, le dipropylheptyle carbonate (Cetiol 4 AII de chez BASF) , le dibutyle carbonate ; le di-neopentyl carbonate ; dipentyl carbonate ; di neoheptyl carbonate ; di-heptyl carbonate ; di-isononyl carbonate ; ou di-nonyl carbonate ; et de préférence de dioctyle carbonate ;
  • les copolymères de la vinylpyrrolidone tels que le copolymère vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene (nom INCI) ;
  • les acides gras supérieurs en C6-C26 liquides à température ambiante (25°C) tels que l'acide oléique, l'acide linoléique, l'acide linolénique, ou l'acide isostéarique ; et
  • leurs mélanges.

These products are notably marketed under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane), Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyltrimethicone) by Dow Corning; Diphenyl Dimethicone such as products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A marketed by Shin Etsu, marketed by Shin Etsu; products Belsil PDM 1000, Belsil PDM 20 marketed by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or in mixtures;

• non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils which may in particular be chosen from linear or branched compounds, of mineral or synthetic origin such as for example: i) paraffin oil, ii) squalane such as the reference NEOSSANCE SQUALANE marketed by AMYRIS, isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, particularly in C14-C30, more particularly in C15-C28, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: (C15-C19)alkane, (C18-C21)Alkane, (C21-C28)alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC, iv) polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example products from the Indopol range marketed by the company INEOS Oligomers, products with the INCI name HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE; v) polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, preferably hydrogenated such as for example the non-volatile compounds from the Parléam® range marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, vi) polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example non-volatile compounds from the PURESYN® range marketed by the company Exxonmobil), vii) decene/butene copolymers, butene/isobutene copolymers and viii) their mixtures;
• polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be chosen from:
  • fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, C10-C26, liquid at room temperature (25°C), preferably mono-alcohols. Advantageously, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms; preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as in particular lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof;
  • triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and in particular from C18 to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; as examples, mention may in particular be made of heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides; vegetable oils such as wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot kernel, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose, peanut, coconut, argan, passionflower, kaya; the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter; as well as mixtures thereof;
  • linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RC(O)-OR' in which RC(O)-O- represents the carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol; the total number of carbon atoms being advantageously at least 10. Examples of such esters include, for example, isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, coco caprylate caprate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene diheptanoate glycol, propylene glycol diethyl 2-hexanoate and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate; and mixtures thereof;
  • hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate;
  • aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate; linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;
  • esters of fatty alcohol or branched C24-C28 fatty acids such as triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tri-2-decyl tetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl 2-tetradecyl tetradecanoate;
  • polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those with the INCI name dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer of fatty acid and dimer diol such as dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate;
  • synthetic ether of formula R1-O-R2 in which R1 and R2, identical or different, independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C6-C24 alkyl group, preferably a C6-C18 alkyl group, and more preferably a C8-C12 alkyl group. It may be preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical. As a linear alkyl group, mention may be made of a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undodyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group and a tetracosyl group. As a branched alkyl group, there may be mentioned a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, a 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, a 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group, and a 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group. As a cyclic alkyl group, mention may be made of a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group., dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof. Among the non-volatile ether oils, mention may be made of dicaprylyl ether, such as the reference CETIOL OE marketed by BASF;
  • the carbonates of formula R8-OC(O)-O-R9, with R8 and R9, identical or different, represent a C4 to C12 alkyl chain, and preferably from C6 to C10, linear or branched; the carbonate oils can be dicaprylyl carbonate (or dioctyl carbonate), marketed under the name Cetiol CC® by the company BASF, di(ethyl–2-hexyl) carbonate, marketed under the name TEGOSOFT DEC® by the company Evonik, dipropylheptyl carbonate (Cetiol 4 AII from BASF), dibutyl carbonate; di-neopentyl carbonate; dipentyl carbonate; di-neoheptyl carbonate; di-heptyl carbonate; di-isononyl carbonate; or di-nonyl carbonate; and preferably dioctyl carbonate;
  • vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer (INCI name);
  • higher C6-C26 fatty acids that are liquid at room temperature (25°C) such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, or isostearic acid; and
  • their mixtures.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition used in the context of the invention is a water-in-oil (W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, preferably oil-in-water (O/W). The proportion of fatty substances in the emulsion can range from 1 to 90% by weight, and preferably from 2 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may comprise at least one emulsifier. Emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately depending on the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W).

The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.01% by weight of emulsifier and/or co-emulsifier, preferably less than 0.001% by weight of emulsifier and/or co-emulsifier relative to the total weight of the composition, even better the composition according to the invention is completely free (0%) of emulsifier and/or co-emulsifier.

The composition according to the invention preferably has a pH ranging from 3.0 to 7.0, more preferably from 3.5 to 6.5, even better from 4.0 to 5.5.

Additives

A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also further comprise any additive usually used in the field concerned, for example chosen from antioxidant agents, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, UV protective agents, cosmetic active ingredients, and mixtures thereof.

Such additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic field.

It may be in particular in the form of an aqueous, hydroalcoholic solution, possibly gelled, a dispersion of the lotion type, preferably two-phase, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, an aqueous gel, a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, in particular using spherules, these spherules being able to be polymeric particles or better, lipid vesicles of ionic and/or non-ionic type, or even in the form of a powder, a serum, a paste or a flexible stick or even a stick. It may be of solid, pasty, or more or less fluid liquid consistency. It may possibly be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It may also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a two-phase, even more preferably in the form of a two-phase lotion.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "two-phase" or "two-phase composition" means a composition consisting of two distinct phases, in particular an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are distinct and not emulsified in each other at rest. They are distinguished from emulsions by the fact that at rest, the two phases are distinct instead of being emulsified in each other. The use of these two-phase compositions requires prior stirring in order to form an emulsion, which must be of sufficient quality and stability to allow homogeneous application of the two phases to the skin or keratin material to which it is applied. At rest, said phases must separate quickly and return to their initial state, this phenomenon being better known under the term "phase separation" or "demixing".

Thus, the composition may comprise all the constituents usually used in the intended topical application and administration.

A composition according to the invention may advantageously be in the form of an emulsion, in particular obtained by dispersing an aqueous phase in a fatty phase (W/O) or a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W), of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, or of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or even of multiple emulsion (W/O/W or O/W/O). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

Said composition is preferably implemented, within the framework of a use or a treatment method according to the invention, by topical route.

The compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to cosmetic supports of the occlusive or non-occlusive type, intended to be applied locally to the skin. As non-limiting examples of cosmetic supports, mention may in particular be made of a patch, a wipe, a roll-on and a pen.

The composition may or may not be rinsed after being applied to the skin, preferably the composition according to the invention is not rinsed after being applied to the skin.

Use and Method of Treatment

The cosmetic compositions covered by the invention may be facial or body care products.

The compositions according to the invention are preferably cosmetic compositions intended for skin care.

These compositions can therefore be intended to be applied to the skin.

According to another of its objects, the invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular non-therapeutic, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition according to the invention, to treat and/or prevent oily or oily-prone skin and/or associated aesthetic skin defects.

The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use, in particular non-therapeutic use, of a composition according to the invention for treating and/or preventing oily or oily-prone skin and/or associated aesthetic skin defects.

A cosmetic implementation of the invention therefore only addresses aesthetic defects of the skin, and therefore does not exert a therapeutic effect.

The present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic skin care application of a composition according to the invention, in particular a cosmetic composition.

The methods and uses implemented within the framework of the present invention also relate to skin peeling, improvement of skin radiance, improvement of skin tone evenness, improvement of skin smoothness, reduction of skin roughness, reduction of skin microrelief, reduction of skin pore size.

By "treatment" we mean a non-therapeutic treatment likely to produce an aesthetic effect without preventing or correcting a pathological dysfunction of the skin.

Throughout the application, the wording "comprising a" or "comprising a" means "comprising at least one" or "comprising at least" one unless otherwise specified.

Throughout the above description, unless otherwise stated, the term "between x and y" or "ranging from x to y" means an inclusive range, that is, the values x and y are included in the range.

Furthermore, the expression “at least one” must be understood as being synonymous with “one or more” unless otherwise specified.

The invention will be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise stated, the % are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions are prepared according to the usual methods of formulating cosmetic compositions.

The following examples are presented for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the invention. The compounds are, as appropriate, cited by chemical names or CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook) names.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples.

Examples

Example 1: Evaluation of the inhibition of lipid production by sebocytes

1. Compounds tested

The compounds tested alone are listed in Table 1 and the mixtures in Table 2.

Compounds tested Mother solution Concentrations tested Fagus sylvatica bud extract (GATULINE RC SPO BIO® GATTEFOSSE)* 10% in the test medium 0.003% Salicylic acid** 10% in the test medium 0.002% Glycolic acid*** 10% in the test medium 0.02% Phytic acid**** 10% in the test medium 0.003% Lactic acid***** 10% in the test medium 0.018%

* extract of beech bud ( Fagus sylvatica ) marketed under the name GATULINE RC SPO BIO® by the company GATTEFOSSE at 1.2% by weight of active ingredient in water (98.5%) and sorbic acid (0.1%) and benzoic acid (0.2%).

**salicylic acid marketed under the name SALICYLIC ACID by the company JQC (HUAYIN) PHARMACEUTICAL at 100% by weight of active ingredient.

***glycolic acid marketed under the name GLYCOLIC ACID 70% by the company GUANGAN CHENGXIN CHEMICAL at 70% by weight of active ingredient in water.

****phytic acid sold by TSUNO RICE FINE CHEMICALS under the name “PHYTIC ACID” at 50% by weight of active ingredient in water.

*****lactic acid marketed under the name PURAC by the company CORBION PRODUTOS RENOVAVEIS at 90% by weight of active ingredient in water.

Combinations Tested mix Concentrations tested Mixture 1 (excluding invention) Fagus sylvatica bud extract (GATULINE RC SPO BIO® GATTEFOSSE) + Salicylic acid + Glycolic acid + Phytic acid
(F.sylavatica ex. + SAc + GAc + PAc) 0.003%:0.002%:0.02%:0.003% Mixture 2 (according to the invention) Fagus sylvatica bud extract (GATULINE RC SPO BIO® GATTEFOSSE) + Salicylic acid + Glycolic acid + Phytic acid + Lactic acid.
(F.sylavatica ex. + SAc + GAc + PAc + LAc) 0.003%:0.002%:0.02%:0.003%:0.018%

1. Materials and Methods

Sebocytes were seeded in a 96-well plate and cultured for 24 hours in culture medium. The medium was then replaced with a test medium containing or not (control) the test compounds, the combinations, or the reference compound (1 μM Olumacostat glasaretil) and the cells were pre-incubated for 4 hours. Then, the inducer (lipogenic mixture containing vitamin C, vitamin D3, insulin, and calcium) was added and the cells were incubated for 7 days. Halfway through, i.e., after 3 days of incubation, half of the medium was removed and the treatments were renewed (including stimulation of the lipogenic mixture). An unstimulated control condition was performed in parallel. All experimental conditions were performed in n = 3.

After incubation, cells were rinsed, fixed, and permeabilized. Lipid droplets within the cells were labeled using a specific fluorescent lipid probe Bodipy® (Invitrogen, ref. D3922) that primarily labels neutral lipids. In parallel, cell nuclei were stained using Hoechst 33258 (bisbenzimide, Sigma, ref. B1155) solution. Image acquisition was performed using the INCell 2200 Analyzer™ (GE Healthcare). Ten pictures were taken per well for each labeling (x20 objective lens) and labeling was quantified by measuring fluorescence intensity normalized to the total cell number (Digital Data Integration with Developer Toolbox 1.5, GE Healthcare software).

1. Résultats

Statistical analysis was performed using GrapPad Prism software.

1. Results

The results are presented in Tables 3 and 4 below.

Conclusion : Mixture No. 2 according to the invention (Fagus sylvatica bud extract + salicylic acid + glycolic acid + phytic acid + lactic acid, exhibits a more powerful inhibitory effect (69% of inhibition, see Table 3) compared to each of the compounds tested alone or to Mixture No. 1 not including lactic acid. Thus, these results show that the composition according to the invention exhibits better performance, in particular a synergistic effect to inhibit the production of sebum by sebocytes, and is therefore useful for the prevention and/or treatment of oily skin.

Example 2: Clinical evaluation of a composition according to the invention

1. Composition assessed

The two-phase lotion type composition according to the invention was prepared according to conventional manufacturing conditions for a person skilled in the art.

Composition according to the invention – Biphase Lotion gram per 100 grams (%) Fat phase 3 Aqueous phase 97

Composition of the fatty phase INCI Name / Chemical Name gram per 100 grams (%) C15-19 ALKANE qs 100 VEGETABLE OIL 10,034 ANTIOXIDANT 0.3 SOOTHING ACTIVE INGREDIENT 6.66

Composition of the aqueous phase INCI Name / Chemical Name gram per 100 grams (%) WATER qs 100 GLYCOLS 4.2 PH ADJUSTER qs pH 4.8 SALICYLIC ACID** 0.206 PHYTIC ACID**** 0.31 LACTIC ACID***** 1.8319 GLYCOLIC ACID*** 2.0618 ANTIOXIDANT 0.21 FAGUS SYLVATICA BUD EXTRACT* 3.1 DESQUAMATING AGENT 0.0001

* extract of beech bud ( Fagus sylvatica ) marketed under the name GATULINE RC SPO BIO® by the company GATTEFOSSE at 1.2% by weight of active ingredient in water (98.5%) and sorbic acid (0.1%) and benzoic acid (0.2%).

**salicylic acid marketed under the name SALICYLIC ACID by the company JQC (HUAYIN) PHARMACEUTICAL at 100% by weight of active ingredient.

***glycolic acid marketed under the name GLYCOLIC ACID 70% by the company GUANGAN CHENGXIN CHEMICAL at 70% by weight of active ingredient in water.

****phytic acid sold by TSUNO RICE FINE CHEMICALS under the name “PHYTIC ACID” at 50% by weight of active ingredient in water.

1. Résultats

*****lactic acid marketed under the name PURAC by the company CORBION PRODUTOS RENOVAVEIS at 90% by weight of active ingredient in water.

1. Results

The composition according to the invention of the two-phase lotion type was evaluated on the skin condition of 60 women of Asian origin of phototypes II to V, applied twice a day for 6 weeks (42 days) on the bare skin of the face. The evaluation is carried out using a clinical rating: Scale rated in 10 points (0: None to 9: severe).

1. Echelle notée en 10 points à J42

P values were adjusted using the Bonferroni method for 3 comparisons to protect against type I error (alpha = 0.05).

1. Scale rated in 10 points at D42

D0
Mean ± standard deviation J42
Mean ± standard deviation D42 – D0
Mean ± SD Skin tone uniformity (n = 61)
visual
(0: very equal to 9: unequal) 4.36 ± 0.78 3.80 ± 0.87 -0.56 ± 0.56 Adjusted p-value
(Bonferroni adjustment)
Wilcoxon (English only) S↓P<0.0001 % variation - 12.8% Skin softness: Texture (n=61
)touch
(0: very smooth to 9: not smooth) 4.72 ± 0.66 4.02 ± 0.67 -0.70 ± 0.53 Adjusted p-value
(Bonferroni adjustment)
Wilcoxon (English only) S↓P<0.0001 % variation - 14.9% Skin radiance (n=62
)visual
(0: very radiant complexion to 9: dull complexion) 4.16 ± 0.71 3.35 ± 0.83 -0.81 ± 0.70 Adjusted p-value
(Bonferroni adjustment)
Wilcoxon (English only) S↓P<0.0001 % variation -19.4% Pore visibility (n=60)
size and number
(0: no visible pore to 9: very visible pore) 4.22 ± 0.98 3.82 ± 1.27 -0.40 ± 0.64 Adjusted p-value
(Bonferroni adjustment)
Wilcoxon (English only) S↓
P<0.0001 % variation - 9.5%

↓: statistically significant decrease in scores

S: statistically significant comparison with p<0.05

1. Comptage des marques rouges et brunes, à J42

NS: statistically insignificant comparison with p>0.05

1. Counting red and brown marks, at D42

D0
Mean ± standard deviation J42
Mean ± standard deviation D42 – D0
Mean ± SD Red and brown marks (n = 46)
9.11 ± 5.40 7.48 ± 5.47 -1.63 ± 2.74 Adjusted p-value
(Bonferroni adjustment)
Student S↓P = 0.0004 % variation - 17.9%

↓: statistically significant decrease in scores

S: statistically significant comparison with p<0.05

NS: statistically insignificant comparison with p>0.05

The results of these analyses show a statistically significant improvement in skin tone uniformity (more even skin tone), skin smoothness (softer skin), skin radiance (more radiant complexion), pore visibility (less visible pores), and the presence of red and brown marks (reduced red and brown marks) at D42 compared to D0.

Claims (13)

Composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of at least one plant of the Fagaceae family, at least two α-hydroxy acids, at least one β-hydroxy acid and/or its derivatives, and at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I)
(I)
where R represents an alkyl radical, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10. Composition according to claim 1, wherein said extract is an extract of at least one plant of the genus Fagus , more preferably, said extract is an extract of at least one plant chosen from the species Fagus crenata , Fagus engleriana , Fagus grandifolia , Fagus hayatae , Fagus japonica , Fagus longipetiolata , Fagus lucida , Fagus orientalis , Fagus sinensis , Fagus sylvatica , even better said extract is an extract of at least one plant of the species Fagus sylvatica such as Fagus sylvatica L. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said extract of at least one plant is an extract of a part of a plant chosen from bark, leaves, branches, buds, more preferably, said extract of at least one plant is an extract of one or more bud(s) of a plant of the species Fagus sylvatica , even more preferably, said extract of at least one plant is an extract of one or more bud(s) of a plant of the species Fagus sylvatica L. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said extract of at least one plant of the Fagaceae family is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.00001% to 1% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.00002% to 0.5% by dry weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.00003% to 0.1% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said at least one β-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said β-hydroxy-acid(s) and/or its derivative(s) is(are) present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 2% by weight, even better from 0.001% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least two α-hydroxy acids are chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably, said at least two α-hydroxy acids are chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof, even better said at least two α-hydroxy acids are lactic acid and glycolic acid. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said at least two α-hydroxy acids are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 15% by weight, even better from 0.03% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said at least two α-hydroxy acids are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which:

1. glycolic acid is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 7.5% by weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.014% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and
2. lactic acid is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.005% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 7.5% by weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.016% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I) is such that R represents a saturated cyclic linear alkyl radical, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 7 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer between 1 and 10, preferably between 4 and 8, preferably between 5 and 7 such as 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said at least one phosphonic derivative of formula (I) is phytic acid. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said phosphonic derivative is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.0005% to 1% by weight, even better in a content ranging from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.