FR3154607A1 - LIQUID MAKE-UP COMPOSITION COMPRISING SILICONE FILM-FORMING AGENTS, OILS, A SILICONE GUM AND PIGMENTS AND METHOD FOR USING IT - Google Patents

Abstract

Title: LIQUID MAKE-UP COMPOSITION COMPRISING SILICONE FILM-FORMING AGENTS, OILS, A SILICONE GUM AND PIGMENTS AND METHOD FOR IMPLEMENTING SAME The present invention relates to a liquid cosmetic for making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising: - at least 20% by weight of at least one first apolar hydrocarbon oil, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, - at least one second oil chosen from volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, - at least one silicone elastomer carried in a hydrocarbon or silicone oil, identical or not to the first oil(s) or to the second oil(s), - at least one silicone resin, - at least one silicone polyamide, - at least one silicone gum, - at least 8% by weight in pigments, - optionally water with a content of less than 5% by weight, - the weight ratio (silicone resin + silicone polyamide) / pigment(s) being between 1 and 2.7. It also relates to a makeup process, in which this composition is applied to said keratin materials.

Description

LIQUID MAKE-UP COMPOSITION COMPRISING SILICONE FILM-FORMING AGENTS, OILS, A SILICONE GUM AND PIGMENTS AND METHOD FOR USING IT

The subject of the present invention is a liquid cosmetic composition for makeup, in particular for the skin and/or lips, comprising at least 20% by weight of at least one particular apolar hydrocarbon oil, a silicone gum, silicone compounds chosen from oils, elastomers, resins, silicone polyamides and pigments in specific proportions.

Compositions intended to be applied, in particular to the lips, and providing a matte finish after application, are well known in the cosmetic field and most of the time have the characteristic of comprising high contents of volatile oils and/or fillers. The high content of volatile oil(s) makes it possible to further increase the content of solid particles in the deposit, such as fillers and pigments, once the composition is applied and dried. As regards the fillers used in compositions providing a matte finish, we often find organic particles, in particular polymeric ones such as nylon, polytetrafluoroethylene, polyethylene, silicone resins or elastomers, or even mineral ones, such as kaolin, silica for example. These fillers make it possible, among other things, to partially absorb the remaining oily compounds, whether they come from the composition or the support on which it is applied (sebum). With the high contents of volatile oils and solid particles in compositions with a matte finish, the content of non-volatile oils is consequently greatly reduced in the deposit after application and drying of the composition. This is why matte compositions are generally considered by users to be little or not at all comfortable, once in place, also leading to a feeling of drying of the support, in particular the lips. When it comes to compositions providing a matte finish with good hold, we can also be faced with the appearance of an additional phenomenon of stickiness, due in particular to the presence of film-forming polymer(s), which further reduces the feeling of comfort of such compositions once applied.

There are, of course, compositions that provide an improvement to this comfort problem, giving matte deposits with good hold. But we want to improve this aspect even further, while maintaining a significant matte result, with a coloring that can be intense and covering, without sacrificing hold, or making the compositions too sticky.

The present invention therefore relates to a liquid cosmetic composition for making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising:

- at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one first apolar hydrocarbon oil, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms,

- at least one second oil chosen from silicone oils, volatile or non-volatile,

- at least one silicone elastomer carried in a hydrocarbon or silicone oil, preferably volatile, identical or not to the first oil(s) or to the second oil(s),

- at least one silicone resin,

- at least one silicone polyamide,

- at least one silicone eraser,

- at least 8% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in pigments,

- optionally water at a content of less than 5% by weight, preferably 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

- the weight ratio (silicone resin + silicone polyamide) / pigment(s) being between 1 and 2.7, preferably between 1 and 2.5.

It also relates to a makeup process, in which such a composition is applied to human keratin materials, in particular to the lips.

The compositions according to the invention are easily applicable, in a non-sticky, precise, fine deposit, which does not migrate, in particular in the wrinkles and fine lines around the lips. The deposits obtained after application of the compositions according to the invention are comfortable, matte, homogeneous, covering and allow intense coloring to be obtained. In addition, the deposits have very good hold and do not transfer.

These and other advantages of the present invention will become more clearly apparent upon reading the description and examples which follow.

FIRST NON-POLAR HYDROCARBON OILS

As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one first apolar hydrocarbon oil, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “non-polar hydrocarbon oil” means a hydrocarbon oil consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms.

Furthermore, the term “oil” designates, within the meaning of the invention, a compound immiscible in water, liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1,013.10 ⁵ Pa).

By "immiscible in water" is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Observation is made visually or using a phase contrast microscope if necessary, on 100g of mixture obtained after sufficient Rayneri stirring to cause a vortex to appear within the mixture (as an indication 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture is left to stand, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

The first volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils are preferably chosen from the following apolar hydrocarbon oils:
- branched _C8 - _C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as, for example, isodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, compounds with the following INCI names: C8-9 Isoalkane, C11-13 Isoalkane, for example, marketed under the references Isopar E, Isopar L by the company Brenntag,
- linear C ₈ -C ₁₃ alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, C9-12 Alkane (INCI name) which is more particularly a mixture of linear C9 to C12 alkanes, for example sold under the reference Vegelight Silk by the company Biosynthis, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008/155059 from the company Cognis, and
- their mixtures.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least as first oil(s), isododecane. Advantageously, the first oil is isododecane.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one first oil as described previously.

Preferably, the content of first oil(s) is between 20 and 45% by weight, preferably 25 and 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

SECOND SILICONE OILS

The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one second oil chosen from silicone oils, volatile or non-volatile, and different from silicone gums.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

More specifically, a silicone oil has a viscosity less than or equal to 100,000 cSt (at 25°C, measured by ASTM D-445).

Non-volatile silicone oils

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours. In particular, these oils have a vapour pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapour pressure can be measured using the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapour pressure (OECD standard 104).

Among the non-volatile silicone oils, we can cite non-phenylated silicones, and phenylated silicones carrying or not a dimethicone fragment.

The term “non-phenylated silicone oil” means a silicone oil not containing phenyl substituents.

Note that the term "dimethicone fragment" refers to a divalent siloxane group whose silicon atom carries two methyl radicals, this group not being found at the ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula:
-(Si(CH ₃ ) ₂ -O)-.

More particularly, said silicone oils are free of (poly)alkoxylated groups such as in particular (poly)ethoxylated or (poly)propoxylated groups, or (poly)glycerolated groups.

In particular, non-phenylated silicones may be chosen from the following non-volatile oils:
- polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone), for example products from the Belsil DM range from Wacker; Xiameter PMX-200 from Dow Corning,
- alkyldimethicones comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl or alkoxy, which are pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain; these groups each comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. By way of example, mention may be made of Cetyl Dimethicone (INCI name) marketed under the commercial reference ABIL WAX 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt,
- their mixtures.

Preferably, these non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes.

As regards phenylated silicones, we can cite the oils with the following INCI names: Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Phenyltrimethicone, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, as well as their mixtures.

These products are notably marketed under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane), Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyltrimethicone) by Dow Corning; Diphenyl Dimethicone such as KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A marketed by Shin Etsu, marketed by Shin Etsu; Belsil PDM 1000, Belsil PDM 20 marketed by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or in mixtures. The values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25°C (ASTM D-445 standard).

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes, from phenyl silicone oils, preferably not comprising a dimethicone fragment, as well as their mixtures.

According to an even more advantageous embodiment, the second oil is chosen from non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes.

Volatile silicone oils

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one volatile silicone oil.

By "volatile oil" is meant an oil having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging to 1300 Pa (OECD standard 104).

The volatile silicone oils can be chosen from linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

Examples of such oils include oils with the following INCI names: Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclotetrasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Caprylyl Methicone, Disiloxane, Trisiloxane, Dimethicone, in particular with a viscosity of less than 5 cst, such as those marketed under the reference Xiameter PMX-200 silicone Fluid marketed by Dow Corning, with viscosities of 1 cSt, 1.5 cSt, 3 cSt, or KF 96 L 2 cs from Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the second volatile silicone oil is chosen from linear silicone oils.

According to one embodiment, the composition comprises, as second silicone oil(s), at least one volatile silicone oil, preferably linear, and at least one non-volatile silicone oil, preferably non-phenylated.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of second silicone oil(s) varies from 25 to 35% by weight, preferably from 27 to 32% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

More particularly, the content of second non-volatile silicone oil(s) varies from 8 to 15% by weight, preferably 10 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

SILICONE RESIN

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone resin.

More generally, the term "resin" means a compound whose structure is three-dimensional. Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.

The nomenclature of silicone resins (also called siloxane resins or silicone resins) is known as "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomeric units it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit:
The letter "M" represents the Monofunctional unit of formula R1R2R3SiO _1/2 , the silicon atom being linked to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
The letter "D" stands for a difunctional unit R1R2SiO _2/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.
The letter "T" represents a Trifunctional unit of formula R1SiO _3/2 .

In the M, D, T patterns defined previously, Ri, namely R1, R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group.
Finally, the letter "Q" signifies a Tetrafunctional SiO _4/2 unit in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.

Such resins are described for example in "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), pp. 265-270, and US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851, US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302,685 and US 4,935,484.

Various silicone resins with different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the nature and number of the radical(s) Ri, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the pendant chains.

As silicone resins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, it is possible to use, for example, silicone resins of type MQ, type T or type MQT.

MQ Resins

As examples of MQ type silicone resins, mention may be made of siloxysilicate type resins such as alkyl siloxysilicates, aryl siloxysilicates or alkylaryl siloxysilicates, of formula [(R1) ₃ SiO _1/2 ] _x (SiO _4/2 ) _y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging for example from 50 to 80, and such that the R1 group represents a radical as defined above, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group,

The silicone resin can be used alone or in the form of a mixture in an oil, which can be chosen in particular from the first and second oil(s) as well as their combinations.

Examples of MQ type silicone resins of the Trimethylsiloxysilicate type (INCI name) include those marketed under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker, or mixtures comprising it such as the products marketed under the names KF-7312J (in cyclopentasiloxane) by the company Shin-Etsu, “Silsoft 74 Fluid (in isododecane) by the company Momentive, Dowsil RSN-749 resin (in cyclopentasiloxane), Dowsil 593 Fluid (in a dimethicone) by the company Dow Corning.

As silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units, mention may also be made of phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyl-dimethylsiloxysilicate (INCI name; Silshine 151 marketed by the company General Electric). The preparation of such resins is described in particular in patent US5817302.

T resins

Examples of T-type silicone resins include polysilsesquioxanes comprising predominantly units of formula (RSiO _3/2 ) _x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the R group is an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes being able to further comprise Si-OH end groups. Thus, these resins comprise, for example, at least 80 mol% of T units.

Polymethylsilsesquioxanes may be mentioned, which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described, for example, in document US 5,246,694.

Preferably, Polymethylsilsesquioxane resins (INCI name) can be used in which R represents a methyl group, such as those marketed by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK by the company Shin-Etsu under the references KR-220L, or under the reference KR-251.

Among the silsesquioxane resins that can be used in the present invention, mention may also be made of those corresponding to silsesquioxane homopolymers and/or copolymers having an average siloxane unit of general formula R1n SiO(4-n)/2, in which each R1 is a propyl group, in which more than 80 mol% of R1 represents a C3 to C10 alkyl group, n is a value of 1.0 to 1.4, and more than 60 mol% of the copolymer comprises R1SiO3/2 units. Since each R1 is a propyl group, these polymers are called polypropylsilsesquioxane resins (INCI name) or "t-propyl" silsesquioxane resins. These resins and their manufacturing processes are described, for example, in documents US8586013, US2012/0301415 and US2006/0292096.

Among the polypropylsilsesquioxane resins suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made of those marketed by Dow Corning under the names Dowsil 670 Fluid or Dowsil 680 ID Fluid, which are mixtures of Polypropylsilsesquioxane respectively with cyclopentasiloxane or with isosodecane.

MQT Resins

As a resin comprising MQT units, those cited in document US 5110890 are known in particular.

A preferred form of MQT type resins are MQT-propyl resins (also called MQTPr). Such resins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are in particular those described and prepared in application WO 2005/075542, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference.

MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the units:
(i) (R1 ₃ SiO _1/2 ) _a
(ii) (R2 ₂ SiO _2/2 ) _b
(iii) (R3SiO _3/2 ) _c and
(iv) (SiO _4/2 ) _d with
R1, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group,
a, b, c and d being mole fractions,
a being between 0.05 and 0.5,
b being between zero and 0.3,
c being greater than zero,
d being between 0.05 and 0.6,
a + b + c + d = 1,
provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.

Preferably, the siloxane resin comprises the units:
(i) (R1 ₃ SiO _1/2 ) _a
(iii) (R3SiO _3/2 ) _c and
(iv) (SiO _4/2 ) _d with
R1 and R3 independently representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, R1 preferably being a methyl group and R3 preferably being a propyl group,
a being between 0.05 and 0.5, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4,
c being greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4,
d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6, or between 0.2 and 0.55,
a + b + c + d = 1, and a, b, c and d being mole fractions,
provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.

The siloxane resins which can be used according to the invention can be obtained by a process comprising the reaction of:
A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol% of (R1 ₃ SiO _1/2 ) _a and (SiO _4/2 ) _d units
- R1 representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group,
- a and d being greater than zero,
- the ratio a/d being between 0.5 and 1.5; and
B) a propyl resin T comprising at least 80 mol% of (R3SiO _3/2 ) _c units,
- R3 representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group,
- c being greater than zero,
provided that at least 40 mol% of the R3 groups are propyl groups,
where the mass ratio A/B is between 95:5 and 15:85, preferably the mass ratio A/B is 30:70.

Advantageously, the mass ratio A/B is between 95:5 and 15:85, preferably, the ratio A/B is less than or equal to 70:30.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, as silicone resin, at least one alkylsiloxysilicate, arylsiloxysilicate, alkylarylsiloxysilicate, polysilsesquioxane resin, as well as mixtures thereof; more particularly among the silicone resins with the following INCI names: trimethylsiloxysilicate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, polypropylsilsesquioxane, as well as mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate resin.

Advantageously, the silicone resin is present in a content ranging from 10 to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 12 to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As indicated above, the weight ratio (silicone resin + silicone polyamide) / pigment(s) is between 1 and 2.7, preferably between 1 and 2.5. It is specified that for this calculation, the contents of silicone resin and silicone polyamide are considered as active material. In addition, if the composition comprises mica as a filler, its content is taken into account in the calculation of said weight ratio, with the content of pigment(s). Note that in this calculation, the silicone resin does not take into account the possible presence of a silicone wax, more particularly the presence of C30-45 polypropyl-silsesquioxane in the composition .

SILICONE ELASTOMER

The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one silicone elastomer carried in at least one oil identical to or different from the first or second oil.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “carried” means that the silicone elastomer is provided in the composition in a predispersed form in at least one oil. More particularly, the elastomer is in the form of a homogeneous mixture in said oil or mixture of oils, stable for at least 24 hours at 20°C. Preferably, this elastomer is in the form of a gel in at least one oil. In particular, a silicone elastomer powder suspended in at least one such oil is not considered, for the purposes of the invention, to be an organopolysiloxane elastomer carried in at least one oil.

By "silicone elastomer", "silicone elastomer" or "polyorganosiloxane elastomer" is meant a crosslinked, flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is capable of returning to its original shape following stretching.

In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles can be spherical or non-spherical particles.

The silicone elastomer present in the composition according to the invention is preferably a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer.

The term “non-emulsifying” defines silicone elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain, and in particular not containing polyoxyalkylene units (in particular polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene), nor polyglyceryl units.

Thus, the silicone elastomer can be obtained by addition crosslinking reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, or even of hydrocarbon chain having ethylenic unsaturation at each end, in particular in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by condensation crosslinking dehydrogenation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl ends and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of an organotin; or by condensation crosslinking reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl ends and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, in particular in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.

According to a first preferred embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to the silicon, in particular in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in application EP295886.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reacting dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy terminations, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane and crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to separate silicon atoms in each molecule.

Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, including a linear or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.

Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with compound (B).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

Compound (A) can thus be chosen from methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy endings, and cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers.

Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic, or network structure, but the straight chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from a liquid to a gum state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.

In addition to the above-mentioned alkenyl groups, other organic groups bonded to silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)- polysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, and copolymers dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations.

In particular, the elastomeric organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reacting dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations and methylhydrogen polysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy terminations, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.

It is advantageous if the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio of the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A) to the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (B) is in the range of 1.5/1 to 20/1.

Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and includes chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and supported platinum.

The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).

According to a second preferred embodiment of the invention, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by reaction (A) of a polysiloxane comprising at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of an alpha, omega diene of formula CH ₂ =CH(CH ₂ ) _x CH=CH ₂ in which x varies from 1 to 20, in particular from 4 to 19, in particular in the presence of a platinum-based catalyst, and (C) of a low molecular weight silicone, preferably a volatile silicone, as for example described in patent US5654362.

Non-emulsifying elastomers are described in particular in patents EP242219, EP295886, EP765656, US5654362 and in application JPS61194009.

In particular, the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from the compounds with the following INCI names: Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3, and preferably from Dimethicone Crosspolymer.

As mentioned previously, the elastomer present in the composition according to the invention is in a form carried in an oil which may be identical to or different from the first and second oils, as well as the additional oils, described below and to the descriptions of which reference may be made.

Thus, the oil is chosen from silicone oils, from polar or apolar, volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the oil carrying the silicone elastomer is chosen from volatile, linear or cyclic, preferably linear, silicone oils.

According to a second embodiment, the oil carrying the silicone elastomer is chosen from non-volatile phenylated or non-phenylated silicone oils, in particular with the following INCI names: Dimethicone, Methyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Methicone, Phenyl Dimethicone and Phenyl Trimethicone.

Preferably, the oil carrying the silicone elastomer is chosen from silicone oils chosen from Dimethicone, in particular with a viscosity ranging from 1 to 500 cSt at 25°C.

According to a final particular embodiment of the invention, the oil carrying the silicone elastomer is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, for example isododecane, or polar non-volatile hydrocarbons such as, for example, esters, such as triethylhexanoin and vegetable oils, or even apolar non-volatile hydrocarbons, such as, for example, squalane. Preferably, the oil carrying the silicone elastomer is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, for example isododecane.

Preferably, the oil carrying the silicone elastomer is chosen from Dimethicone, in particular with a viscosity ranging from 1 to 500 cSt at 25°C, and from isododecane, alone or as a mixture.

As non-emulsifying elastomers, it is more particularly possible to use those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-016F, KSG-18A, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, KSG-44, USG-102, USG-103, USG-105, USG-106 and USG-107A, by the company Shin Etsu; Dowsil DC9040 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil DC9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil 9045 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil 9350 Elastomer Blend, Dowsil 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil EL-9241 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil EL-9140 DM Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil EL-8040 ID, by Dow Chemical Company; SFE 839 Gel by Momentive Performance Materials.

Alternatively, the elastomer may be an emulsifying elastomer.

As emulsifying silicone elastomers, mention may be made of polyether silicone elastomers, polyglyceryl silicone elastomers, polyether dimethicone copolymers and their mixtures.

The emulsifying silicone elastomers may include functional groups selected from the group comprising polyglycerol, polyethylene glycol or polypropylene glycol. Examples include Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, sold under the name KSG-210 ^® , and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, sold under the name KSG-710 ^® , Squalane (and) Lauryl Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, sold under the name KSG-840 ^® , by Shin Etsu Company. Also mentioned are PEG-10 Dimethicone sold under the name KF-6017 ^® by Shin Etsu, Dimethicone (and) PEG/PPG- 18/18 Dimethicone sold under the name ES-5226 DM ^® by Dow Corning Corporation, PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (and) PEG-9 sold under the name KF-6028 ^® , and Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone sold under the name KF-6038 ^® , by Shin Etsu.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-emulsifying silicone elastomer.

The silicone elastomer content, expressed as active material, varies from 2 to 8% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

POLYAMIDE SILICONE

The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one silicone polyamide.

The silicone polyamides of the composition are preferably solid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1,013.10 ⁵ Pa).

For the purposes of the invention, the term “polymer” means a compound having at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and better still 10 repeating units.

The silicone polyamides of the composition of the invention may be polymers of the polyorganosiloxane type such as, for example, those described in documents US5874069, US5919441, US6051216 and US5981680. According to the invention, the silicone polymers may belong to the following two families:
(1) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two amide groups, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and/or
(2) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two amide groups, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.

A) According to a first variant , the silicone polymers are polyorganosiloxanes as defined above and whose amide units are arranged in the polymer chain.

Silicone polyamides may more particularly be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to the general formula (I):

1) in which: G' represents C(O) when G represents -C(O)-NH-Y-NH- and G' represents –NH- when G represents –NH-C(O)-YC(O)-
2) R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ , identical or different, represent a group chosen from:
- linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon groups, _C1 to _C40 , saturated or unsaturated, which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and which may be substituted in part or completely by fluorine atoms,
- _C6 to _C10 aryl groups, optionally substituted by one or more _C1 to _C4 alkyl groups,
- polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms,
3) the X, identical or different, represent a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkylene di-yl group, which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and/or nitrogen atoms,
4) Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene group, saturated or unsaturated, C ₁ to C ₅₀ , which may contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and/or may carry as a substituent one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C ₃ to C ₈ cycloalkyl, C ₁ to C ₄₀ alkyl, C ₅ to C ₁₀ aryl, phenyl optionally substituted by 1 to 3 C ₁ to C ₃ alkyl, C ₁ to C ₃ hydroxyalkyl and C ₁ to C ₆ amino alkyl groups, or
5) Y represents a group corresponding to the formula: R ₈ -T<; in which
- T represents a trivalent or tetravalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C ₃ to C ₂₄ hydrocarbon group optionally substituted by a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and
- R ⁸ represents a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₅₀ alkyl group, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulfonamide groups which may or may not be linked to another chain of the polymer,
6) n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer ranging from 50 to 1000, preferably from 50 to 700 and more preferably from 50 to 200.

It should be noted that “m” corresponds to the average degree of polymerization of the silicone portion of the silicone polyamide.

According to one embodiment of the invention, 80% of R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ of the polymer are preferably chosen from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl groups. According to another embodiment, 80% of R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ of the polymer are methyl groups.

According to the invention, Y may represent various divalent groups, optionally also comprising one or two free valences to establish bonds with other units of the polymer or copolymer. Preferably, Y represents a group chosen from:
a) linear C ₁ to C ₂₀ alkylene groups, preferably C ₁ to C ₁₀ ,
b) branched alkylene groups which may contain rings and non-conjugated unsaturations, in C ₃₀ to C ₅₆ ,
c) C ₅ -C ₆ cycloalkylene groups,
(d) phenylene groups optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ to C ₄₀ alkyl groups,

e) C ₁ to C ₂₀ alkylene groups, comprising from 1 to 5 amide groups,

f) C ₁ to C ₂₀ alkylene groups, comprising one or more substituents, chosen from hydroxyl, C ₃ to C ₈ cycloalkane, C ₁ to C ₃ hydroxyalkyl and C ₁ to C ₆ alkylamine groups,

g) polyorganosiloxane chains of formula:

in which R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ , R ⁷ , T and m are as defined above.

B) According to the second variant , the silicone polyamides can be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to formula (II):

in which
- R ⁴ and R ⁶ , identical or different, are as defined above for formula (I),
- R ¹⁰ represents a group as defined above for R ⁴ and R ⁶ , or represents the group of formula -X-G''-R ¹² in which X are as defined above for formula (I) and R ¹² represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C ₁ to C ₅₀ hydrocarbon group optionally comprising in its chain one or more atoms chosen from O, S and N, optionally substituted by one or more fluorine atoms and/or one or more hydroxyl groups, or a phenyl group optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl groups, and G'' represents ––C(O)NH- and –HN-C(O)-.
- R ¹¹ represents the group of formula -X-G''-R ¹² in which X, G'' and R ¹² are as defined above,
- m ₁ is an integer ranging from 50 to 998, and
- m ₂ is an integer ranging from 2 to 500.

It should be noted that “m ₁ ” corresponds to the average degree of polymerization of the silicone portion of the silicone polyamide.

According to the invention, the silicone polymer may be a homopolymer, that is to say a polymer comprising several identical units, in particular units of formula (I) or formula (II).

According to the invention, it is also possible to use a polymer consisting of a copolymer comprising several different units of formula (I), i.e. a polymer in which at least one of R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ , R ⁷ , X, G, Y, m and n is different in one of the units. The copolymer can also be formed from several units of formula (II), in which at least one of R ⁴ , R ⁶ , R ¹⁰ , R ¹¹ , m ₁ and m ₂ is different in at least one of the units.

It is also possible to use a polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (I) and at least one unit of formula (II), the units of formula (I) and the units of formula (II) being able to be identical or different from each other.

According to a variant of the invention, it is also possible to use a silicone polyamide further comprising at least one hydrocarbon unit comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino groups and combinations thereof.

These copolymers can be block polymers, sequenced polymers or graft polymers.

In formulae (I) and (II), the alkylene group representing X or Y may optionally contain in its alkylene part at least one of the following elements:
1) 1 to 5 amide, urea, urethane, or carbamate groups,
2) a _C5 or _C6 cycloalkyl group, and
3) a phenylene group optionally substituted by 1 to 3 identical or different C ₁ to C ₃ alkyl groups.

In formulas (I) and (II), the alkylene groups may also be substituted by at least one element selected from the group consisting of:
- a hydroxy group,
- a C ₃ to C ₈ cycloalkyl group,
- one to three C ₁ to C ₄₀ alkyl groups,
- a phenyl group optionally substituted by one to three C ₁ to C ₃ alkyl groups,
- a C ₁ to C ₃ hydroxyalkyl group, and
- a C ₁ to C ₆ aminoalkyl group.

In these formulas (I) and (II), Y can also represent the formula R ₈ – T <; where R ⁸ represents a polyorganosiloxane chain, and T represents a group of formula:

in which a, b and c are independently integers ranging from 1 to 10, and R ¹³ is a hydrogen atom or a group such as those defined for R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ .

In formulas (I) and (II), R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ preferably represent, independently, a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₄₀ alkyl group, preferably a CH ₃ , C ₂ H ₅ , nC ₃ H ₇ or isopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted by one to three methyl or ethyl groups.

As seen previously, the polymer may comprise identical or different units of formula (I) or (II).

Thus, the polymer can be a polyamide containing several units of formula (I) or (II) of different lengths, or a polyamide corresponding to formula (III):

in which X, Y, n, R ⁴ to R ⁷ have the meanings given above, m ₁ and m ₂ which are different, are chosen from the range from 1 to 1000, and p is an integer from 2 to 300.

In this formula, the units can be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer, or an alternating copolymer. In this copolymer, the units can be not only of different lengths but also of different chemical structures, for example having different Ys. In this case, the polymer can have the formula (IV):

in which R ⁴ to R ⁷ , X, Y, m ₁ , m ₂ , n and p have the meanings given above and Y ¹ is different from Y but chosen from the groups defined for Y. As before, the different units can be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer, or an alternating copolymer.

In this first embodiment of the invention, the silicone polymer can also be constituted by a graft copolymer. Thus, the polyamide with silicone units can be grafted and optionally crosslinked by silicone chains with amide groups. Such polymers can be synthesized with trifunctional amines.

According to the invention, as seen previously, the siloxane units may be in the main chain or backbone of the polymer, but they may also be present in grafted or pendant chains. In the main chain, the siloxane units may be in the form of segments as described above. In the pendant or grafted chains, the siloxane units may appear individually or in segments.

According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, a copolymer of silicone polyamide and hydrocarbon polyamide may be used, i.e. a copolymer comprising units of formula (I) or (II) and hydrocarbon polyamide units. In this case, the polyamide-silicone units may be arranged at the ends of the hydrocarbon polyamide.

Advantageously, the composition comprises at least one polyamide/polydimethylsiloxane polymer, in particular a polymer of general formula (I) having an index m of value greater than 50, in particular greater than 75, in particular approximately 100.

Advantageously, the silicone polyamide of formula (I) has a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 10,000 to 500,000 g/mol.

More preferably, X and Y independently represent a group chosen from linear C ₁ to C ₂₀ alkylene groups, preferably C ₁ to C ₁₀ .

As examples of silicone polyamide, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with examples 1 to 3 of the document
US5981680, as well as the product marketed under the reference DC 2-8179 by Dow Corning (INCI name: Nylon-611/Dimethicone Copolymer).

According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, the polymer consists of a homopolymer or copolymer comprising urethane or urea groups. These polymers are described in detail in application WO 2003/106614.

The composition may contain, instead of the silicone polyamide, a polyorganosiloxane polymer containing two or more urethane and/or urea groups, either in the backbone of the polymer, or on side chains or as pendant groups.

Polymers comprising at least two urethane and/or urea groups in the backbone may be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to the following formula:

in which R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ , R ⁷ , X, Y, m and n have the meanings given above for formula (I), and U represents -O- or –NH-, so that: - U – C(=O) – NH - ; corresponds to a urethane or urea group.

In this formula, Y may be a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₄₀ alkylene group, optionally substituted by a C ₁ to C ₁₅ alkyl group or a C ₅ to C ₁₀ aryl group. Preferably, a -(CH ₂ ) ₆ - group is used.

The polymer constituting the silicone polymer can be formed from silicone urethane and/or silicone-urea units of different length and/or constitution, and be in the form of block, sequenced or statistical (random) copolymers.

As in the case of silicone polyamides of formula (I), (II) or (III), it is possible to use in the invention silicone polyurethanes or polyureas having units of different length and structure, in particular units of different lengths in terms of the number of silicone units.

The polymers and copolymers used in the composition of the invention advantageously have a transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 45°C to 190°C. Preferably, they have a transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 70 to 130°C and better still from 80°C to 105°C.

Advantageously, the silicone polyamide has a weight average molecular mass of between 10,000 and 500,000 g/mol.

Preferably, the silicone polyamide is present in the composition in a content ranging from 5 to 12% by weight, preferably 6 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

SILICONE GUM

The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one silicone gum.

More particularly, the silicone gum is chosen from polyorganosiloxanes with a molecular mass by weight greater than or equal to 400,000 g/mol.

Molecular masses by weight are measured in a conventional manner in the field, for example using size exclusion chromatography (SEC).

Preferably, the viscosity of the silicone gum is greater than or equal to 300,000 cst, advantageously greater than or equal to 400,000 cst, more particularly greater than or equal to 800,000 cSt, more particularly less than or equal to 1,000,000 cSt (at 25°C, measured by the ASTM D-445 standard). More particularly between 1,000,000 and 5,000,000 cSt (at 25°C, measured by the ASTM D-445 standard).

According to the present invention, a silicone gum is not considered a silicone oil.

By silicone gum is meant more particularly polyorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, linear, non-crosslinked, optionally hydroxylated, phenylated, or vinylic, or combinations thereof. Consequently, the silicone gums used according to the invention are not silicone elastomers.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the silicone gum corresponds to the following formula:

in which:
- R7, R8, R11 and R12 are the same or different, and each is chosen from alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
- R9 and R10 are identical or different, and each is chosen from an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, an aryl radical, a hydroxyl radical, a vinyl radical, preferably an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical;
- X is chosen from an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical, a vinyl radical, preferably an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical;
- n and p are chosen so as to give the silicone gum a molecular mass greater than or equal to 400,000 g/mol.

In general, n and p can each take values ranging from 0 to 5000, more specifically from 0 to 3000, knowing that n and p are not zero simultaneously.

According to a particular embodiment, the silicone gum is a polydimethylsiloxane gum (INCI name Dimethicone), a polydimethylsiloxane gum comprising at least one aryl radical (INCI name: Diphenyl Dimethicone), a gum with the INCI name Dimethiconol, or mixtures thereof, and preferably a Dimethiconol gum.

The silicone gum(s) may be used alone or in a mixture, in particular with a solvent chosen from the first oils, the second oils, described above, or their mixtures.

The silicone gums may optionally be implemented in a pre-solubilized form, for example, in a volatile or non-volatile silicone oil, identical or not to the second silicone oils detailed previously. Usually, the proportion of gum represents from 5 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 15% by weight, in the silicone oil.

Among the silicone gums that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of Dimethicone gums (all the radicals R and X are methyl groups), sold under the names Silsoft SE 30 by the company Momentive Performances Materials, Belsil DM 500000 by the company Wacker. Among the Dimethiconol gums (the R radicals are methyl groups and the X radicals are hydroxyl groups), we can cite those sold under the names Xiameter® PMX-1401 Fluid (in cyclopentasiloxane), Xiameter PMX-1503 Fluid (in a Dimethicone), Xiameter® PMX-1403 Fluid (in a dimethicone) by the company Dow Corning, the products of the Mirasil D-DML-LV range marketed by the company Elkem Silicones, Silsoft 1215 (in cyclopentasiloxane) by the company Momentive Performances Materials. With regard to the Diphenyl dimethicone gums (R ₉ and R ₁₀ representing an aryl group, the other radicals R and X representing methyl groups) we can cite for example Mirasil C-DPDM (in cyclopentasiloxane) marketed by the company Elkem Silicones.

According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone gum content, expressed as active material, ranges from 0.7 to 5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

ADDITIONAL NON-VOLATILE HYDROCARBON OILS

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, polar or apolar.

For the purposes of the invention, a “polar” oil comprises, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one oxygen or nitrogen atom, and preferably at least one oxygen atom.

Non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils

Among the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils suitable for carrying out the invention, mention may be made of oils more particularly chosen from:
- C ₁₀ -C ₂₆ alcohols, preferably monohydroxylated;
- ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or not, branched or not, preferably C ₃ -C ₁₆ ;
- non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oils comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12, and optionally one or more ether or hydroxyl functions;
- their mixtures.

Among the C ₁₀ -C ₂₆ alcohols, the following are chosen in particular: lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, and preferably octyldodecanol.

Among the ethers and carbonates, dicaprylyl ether, dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-15 dialkyl carbonate, may be suitable, among others.

Suitable ester oils include mono and diesters optionally comprising one or two ether groups; triesters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally comprising one to three ether groups; tetraesters; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol; esters and polyesters of mono- or dicarboxylic acid and dimer diol or monoalcohols; vegetable oils, as well as mixtures thereof.

* Mono- or diesters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, more particularly comprising from 12 to 80 carbon atoms, and optionally one or two ether groups. Among the compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoesters or diesters obtained from monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acid, saturated or unsaturated, in particular comprising from 4 to 28, preferably from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl, on the one hand, and from monoalcohol or polyol, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 2 to 26, in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, and 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12, preferably at least 16. In addition, the ester may optionally comprise one or two ether groups and optionally one or two hydroxyl groups.
Examples include octyl-2-dodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isostearyl heptanoate, cetostearyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, myristate 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, octyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, glycerin stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl behenate, isocetyl stearate, mixed esters of capric acid, caprylic acid and coconut alcohol (C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ alcohols), 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, diisostearyl adipate, or mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of the esters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C ₂ -C ₈ mono- or polycarboxylic acid and of a C ₂ -C ₈ alcohol. In particular, suitable for implementing the invention are the monoesters of a C ₂ -C ₈ carboxylic acid and of a C ₂ -C ₈ alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; and the diesters of a C ₂ -C ₈ dicarboxylic acid and of a C ₂ -C ₈ alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; such as diisopropyl adipate, bis (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dibutyl adipate, bis (2-ethylhexyl) succinate.
Mention may also be made of monocarboxylic acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, and of diols, in particular glycols, in particular C ₂ -C ₅ , of glycerol or polyglycerol. Mention may also be made, for example, of propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monoricinoleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, ethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate and mixtures thereof.

*Linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic triesters, comprising up to 80 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one to three ether groups. Suitable for the invention are esters obtained from linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated, mono- or polycarboxylic acids, C ₂ -C ₄₀ , preferably C ₄ -C ₄₀ , and polyols or monoalcohols, C ₂ -C ₄₀ , preferably C ₃ -C ₄₀ ; said polyesters optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl.
For example, triacetin may be used, as well as triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, C ₄ -C ₃₆ , more particularly C ₈ -C ₂₀ , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, such as, for example, triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids. In particular, saturated triglycerides such as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride may be mentioned, for example, such as the products marketed under the DUB MCT range by the company Stéarinerie Dubois, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, C _18-36 acid triglycerides such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois), glyceryl triisostearate.
We can also cite triesters of glycerol or polyglycerol and monocarboxylic acids such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, glyceryl tridecyl-2 tetradecanoate.
By way of example, mention may also be made of oils comprising three ester functions, optionally hydroxylated or acetylated, of an acid comprising three carboxylic functions, C ₂ -C ₉ , optionally hydroxylated, and of a C ₂ -C ₂₀ monoalcohol. Mention may be made of citric acid esters such as, for example, triethyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, as well as tridecyl trimellitate, as well as mixtures thereof.

* Tetraesters comprising in particular from 35 to 80 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one to three ether groups, such as tetraesters of penthaerythritol or polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl-2 tetradecyl tetradecanoate.

* Polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. In this respect, we can notably mention the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and dimer diacids, and their esters, such as Hailucent ISDA, with the INCI name Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer.

* Esters of dimer diol or polyol and mono- and/or dicarboxylic acid. Examples that may be mentioned are esters of dimer diol and fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and dimer dicarboxylic acid, in particular obtainable from a dimer dicarboxylic acid derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, in particular C ₈ to C ₃₄ , in particular C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , in particular C ₁₆ to C ₂₀ , and more particularly C ₁₈ , such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and dilinoleic diol dimers, with the INCI name Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, for example such as those marketed by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name Lusplan DD-DA5 ^® and DD-DA7 ^® .
Also suitable are esters resulting from the esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid and at least one dicarboxylic acid, as described in particular in patent US7317068. The polyol more particularly comprises 2 to 20 carbon atoms and 2 to 8 hydroxyl groups, preferably pentaerythritol. More particularly, the monocarboxylic acid comprises 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 6 to 22 carbon atoms, such as preferably stearic, isostearic, caprylic, capric acids, or combinations thereof. As for the dicarboxylic acid, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, it more particularly comprises 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and is preferably adipic acid. Examples include Pentaerythrityl Isostearate / Caprate / Caprylate / Adipate, marketed in particular under the name Crodamol L by the company Croda, and Pentaerythrityl Adipate/Caprate/Caprylate/Heptanoate marketed under the name Lexfeel 700 EX-LO-MB by the company Inolex.

* vegetable oils such as castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, rosa canina oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, Marula oil, Camelina oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, corn germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, pumpkin oil, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, meadowfoam oil, black cumin oil, buriti oil, sandalwood oil, babassu oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, as well as mixtures thereof

Preferably, an oil is chosen from castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, as well as mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the polar hydrocarbon oil(s) are chosen from:
- vegetable oils, in particular those just listed;
- ester oils, optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 12 carbon atoms;
- their mixtures.

More particularly, if the composition contains it, the content of additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil(s) is less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil(s).

Non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils

More particularly, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil, different from the first oil(s) mentioned above, may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin such as for example:
- paraffin oil,
- squalane, particularly of plant origin,
- isoeicosane,
- mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly mixtures whose INCI names are, for example, the following: C18-21 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, such as the products Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total,
- polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, products from the Indopol range marketed by the company Ineos Oligomers,
- polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range marketed by the company Nippon Oil & Fat,
- polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example non-volatile compounds from the Silkflo range marketed by the company Ineos, Dekanex by the company IMCD,
- and their mixtures.

Preferably, if the composition comprises at least one additional hydrocarbon oil, this is rather chosen from apolar oils, alone or as a mixture.

More particularly, if the composition contains it, the content of additional non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil(s) is less than 5%, preferably less than 2% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise additional oil(s).

WAXES

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one wax chosen from polar or apolar hydrocarbon waxes, or silicone waxes, as well as their mixtures.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “wax” means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C and up to 120°C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC Q2000” by the company TA Instruments with the software “TA Universal Analysis”.

The measurement protocol is as follows:
A 5 mg sample of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
During the second temperature rise, the melting point of the solid fatty substance is measured, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.
The enthalpy of fusion of the wax (∆Hf) can also be measured, which is the integral of the entire melting curve obtained. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

Waxes can be silicone and preferably hydrocarbon. They are also of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.

In particular, the waxes have a melting temperature preferably greater than or equal to 35°C and better still greater than or equal to 40°C.

Non-polar hydrocarbon waxes

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “apolar hydrocarbon wax” means a wax consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms, such as, for example, N, O, Si, P, etc.

As examples of apolar waxes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes (or also Synthetic Wax), microwaxes, in particular polyethylene waxes.

Polar hydrocarbon waxes

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polar hydrocarbon wax” means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially, or even consists of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one heteroatom more particularly chosen from oxygen, optionally nitrogen, or mixtures thereof. It may thus contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

As a hydrocarbon polar wax, a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is preferred.

According to the invention, the term “ester wax” means a wax comprising at least one ester function. Ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.

According to the invention, the term “alcohol wax” means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl group (OH).

In particular, the following can be used as ester wax, alone or in mixtures:
i) waxes of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R ₁ and R ₂ represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 6 to 50, in particular from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as for example O, N and whose melting temperature varies more particularly from 30 to 120 C. In particular, it is possible to use as ester wax a C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture or a C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl stearate. Such waxes are sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P ^® ", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P ^® ", "Kester Wax K 80 P ^® ", or "Kester Wax K82H" by the company Koster Keunen. Stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate and their mixtures can also be used.
(ii) di-(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate,
iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula
R ³ -(-OCO-R ⁴ -COO-R ⁵ ), in which R ³ and R ⁵ are the same or different, preferably the same and represent a C ₄ -C ₃₀ alkyl group and R ⁴ represents a linear or branched C ₄ -C ₃₀ aliphatic group which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations. Preferably, the C ₄ -C ₃₀ aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.
iv) Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having in particular linear or branched fatty chains, in C ₈ -C ₃₂ , for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold in the Phytowax Castor range, for example Phytowax Castor 22L73 ^® , or waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, such as those in the Phytowax Olive range, for example Phytowax Olive 18L57, marketed by the company Sophim. Such waxes are notably described in application FR2792190.
v) Waxes corresponding to partial or total, preferably total, esters of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated, C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acid with glycerol. By total esters, it is meant that all the hydroxyl functions of the glycerol are esterified. By way of example, mention may be made of trihydroxystearin (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate), tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or as a mixture. Among suitable compounds, mention may be made of triesters of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid, or of hydrogenated castor oil, such as for example Thixcin R, Thixcin E, marketed by Elementis Specialties
(vi) Mention may also be made of waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, sunflower wax, in particular refined.
vii) Mention may also be made of hydrocarbon waxes, polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; the number of oxyalkylenated units (in C2-C4) may vary from 2 to 100, the number of glycerolated units may vary from 1 to 20. As examples, mention may be made of polyoxyethylenated beeswax, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba; lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or not, polyoxyethenate or polyoxypropylenate, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerol beeswax, including polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, wax based on Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Wax/Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, such as the Acticire product from Gattefossé.

Silicone waxes

By “silicone wax” is meant a wax comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

Examples of silicone waxes that may be mentioned include C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name), marketed for example under the names Dowsil SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax, Dowsil AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax (mixed with C30-45 Olefin), by Dow Corning. Such waxes are described in particular in application WO2005/100444. Silicone beeswax, such as Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, may also be mentioned.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one wax, more particularly chosen from silicone waxes. Advantageously, the composition comprises, as wax, a silicone wax, preferably C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane wax.

Preferably, the wax content(s) advantageously varies from 1 to 5% by weight, in particular from 1.5 to 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

PIGMENTS

The composition according to the invention further comprises at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one pigment.

“Pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the composition, intended to color the composition and/or the resulting deposit.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm. According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D[50] greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm. The sizes are measured by laser diffraction using a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 3000® type from Malvern, making it possible to understand the granulometric distribution of all the particles over a wide range which can range from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm. The data are processed based on classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron, and allows the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D[50] represents the maximum size that 50% of the particles have by volume.

In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide. By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.
By "mother-of-pearl" we mean colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.
The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic colorant, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic colorants.
Examples of mother-of-pearl include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.
Mother-of-pearl can more specifically have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery color or reflection.

Among the pigments which can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments.
For the purposes of the invention, “stabilized” means devoid of any effect of color variability with the viewing angle or in response to a change in temperature.
For example, this material may be chosen from metallic sheen particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular interference fibers. Of course, these different materials may be combined so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. Insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they exhibit a predominant affinity for an oily phase which can then transport them. The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.
For the purposes of the invention, "coating" a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

Surface-treated pigments may be prepared using chemical, electronic, chemical-mechanical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.
The surfactant may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond. Alternatively, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments. The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.
The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surfactant on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surfactant, possibly hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.
Coating can be achieved, for example, by chemically reacting a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creating a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.
Chemical surface treatment may involve diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular method, the coloring matter is an organic, synthetic, natural or naturally occurring pigment.

The term "organic pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone compounds.

The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the pigments oranges codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2679771.

The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1184426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.

The pigment can also be a lake.

By lake we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

Inorganic substrates on which dyes are adsorbed include, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

Among the organic dyes, we can mention cochineal carmine. Examples of lakes include the product known under the name: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090). D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).

More particularly, the content of pigment(s) is at least 8% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, advantageously representing from 8 to 15% by weight, preferably from 10 to 14% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As indicated previously, the weight ratio (silicone resin + silicone polyamide) / pigment(s) is between 1 and 2.7, preferably between 1 and 2.5.

LIPOPHILIC THICKENING AGENT

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one lipophilic thickening agent, chosen more particularly from silicas, hydrophobically treated or not; lipophilic clays; alone or as a mixture, and preferably silica, hydrophobically treated or not.

Silicas

The composition according to the invention may thus comprise, as a lipophilic thickening agent, a pyrogenic silica, preferably hydrophobic, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic.

a) Pyrogenic silica

Suitable for the invention is fumed silica with a hydrophobic surface treatment. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by means of a chemical reaction that reduces the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, silanol groups can be substituted with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

Hydrophobic groups can be:

- trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are called “Silica Silylate” according to the CTFA ( ^8th edition, 2000). They are, for example, marketed under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by the company Cabot.

- dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called “Silica Dimethyl Silylate” according to the CTFA ( ^8th edition, 2000). They are, for example, marketed under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company Cabot.

b) Silica aerogels

Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in liquid medium and then dried usually by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO ₂ . This type of drying prevents contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the different drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CJ., and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science : New York : Academic Press, 1990.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usually have a specific surface area per unit mass (S _M ) ranging from 500 to 1500 m ² /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m ² /g and better still from 600 to 800 m ² /g, and a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 µm, better still from 1 to 1000 µm, preferably from 1 to 100 µm, in particular from 1 to 30 µm, more preferably from 5 to 25 µm, better still from 5 to 20 µm and even better still from 5 to 15 µm.

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 µm, preferably from 5 to 25 µm, better still from 5 to 20 µm and even better still from 5 to 15 µm.

The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called BET (BRUNAUER – EMMET – TELLER) method described in “The journal of the American Chemical Society”, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles considered.

Silica aerogel particle sizes can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvern MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed using Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter for non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in the work of Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (S _M ) ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g and a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 µm and even better from 5 to 15 µm.

Aerogels are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name Silica Silylate).

By “hydrophobic silica” is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

Regarding the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference may be made to document US 7,470,725.

Preferably, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups will be used.

As hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g.

We can also mention the aerogels marketed by the Cabot company under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200.

The aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica Silylate) by Dow Corning will preferably be used, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g.

Lipophilic clays

The lipophilic thickening agent usable in the context of the present invention may also be a lipophilic clay.

“Lipophilic clay” means any clay that is fat-soluble or fat-dispersible in an oily phase.

The term clay more specifically refers to a material based on hydrated silicates and/or aluminosilicates with a lamellar structure.

Clays can be natural or synthetic. Examples of such products include clays from the smectite family, as well as from the vermiculite, stevensite, and chlorite families. These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin.

Preferably, organophilic clays are used, more particularly modified clays, such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.

More particularly, the clays are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as an ammonium halide, such as, for example, a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, comprising or not an aromatic group. In particular, mention may be made of halides, such as chlorides, of stearalkonium, benzalkonium or even di-alkyl di-methyl ammonium, for example distearyl dimethyl ammonium.

Lipophilic clay can be in the form of a powder or in a pre-dispersed form in a solvent chosen for example from C1-C2 alcohols, such as methanol, ethanol; propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate, and their mixtures.

The lipophilic clay suitable for implementing the invention may be chosen from the modified hectorites with the following INCI names: Disteardimonium hectorite, Stearalkonium Hectorites, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, alone or in mixtures. Preferably, the composition comprises Disteardimonium hectorite.

The lipophilic bentonite suitable for implementing the invention may be chosen from the bentonites with the following INCI names: Quaternium-18 bentonites, Stearalkonium Bentonites, Quaternium-18/Benzalkonium Bentonite, alone or in mixtures.

Among the modified hectorites that can be used in the context of the invention, we can cite:
*among Disteardimonium Hectorite: Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG, Bentone Gel;
*among Stearalkonium Hectorite: Bentone 27V; marketed by the company Elementis Specialties.

Among the modified bentonites that can be used in the context of the invention, we can cite, alone or in mixtures:
*among quaternium-18 bentonites: Bentone 34 marketed by Elementis Specialties; Claytone 40, Tixogel VP marketed by BYK Additives Inc;
*among Stearalkonium Bentonites, Tixogel VZ, Claytone AF, Claytone APA marketed by the company BYK Additives Inc;
*among Quaternium-18/Benzalkonium Bentonite: Claytone HT marketed by BYK Additives Inc.

According to a preferred embodiment, the lipophilic clay type filler comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group is chosen from lipophilic hectorites, in particular Disteardimonium Hectorite.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic thickening agent chosen from silica, preferably hydrophobically treated.

More particularly, if the composition comprises it, the content of lipophilic thickening agent represents from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

WATER

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise water. Preferably, if the composition comprises it, the water content does not exceed 5% by weight, preferably does not exceed 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more advantageously, the water content, if the composition comprises it, does not exceed 2% by weight, in particular does not exceed 1% by weight, and even more particularly does not exceed 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

CHARGES

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one filler, mineral or organic. It should be noted that the fillers, in particular the mineral fillers, are chosen from compounds other than the aforementioned lipophilic thickening agents.

The term “mineral filler” means any compound whose chemical structure does not include a carbon atom, regardless of the presence of a coating of said filler.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “organic filler” means solid particles of at least one hydrocarbon or silicone compound, or combinations thereof, regardless of their coating.

The fillers are in the form of particles and are distinct from the pigments described previously.

The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be particles of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber shapes or any other intermediate shape between these defined shapes. The fillers may be spherical, that is to say comprise at least one generally rounded portion, in particular defining at least one portion of a sphere, preferably internally defining a concavity or a hollow (sphere, globules, bowls, horseshoe, etc.) or lamellar.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the fillers more particularly have an average particle size (expressed as volume average diameter - D[0.5]) of at least 1 µm, preferably at least 2 µm, advantageously between 2 and 15 µm. The particle size can be measured by laser diffraction using a commercial granulometer of the Mastersizer 3000 type, from the company Malvern (see also standard ISO 13320).

The fillers used in the composition according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular, they may be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent, in particular promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones, in particular silanes; fluorinated derivatives, fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, alanine. The term alkyl(e) mentioned in the compounds cited above designates in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

Examples of mineral fillers include:
- Silica (INCI name: Silica) preferably in the form of spherical particles, such as porous silica microspheres sold under the name Silica Beads SB-700 by the company Myoshi; "Sunsphere H51", "Sunsphere H33" by the company Asahi Glass; amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name "SA Sunsphere H33", "SA Sunsphere H53" by the company Asahi Glass; hollow silica microspheres.
- Perlite such as those marketed by World Minerals under the trade name Perlite P1430, Perlite P2550, Perlite P2040, or OpTiMatTM 1430 OR or 2550 OR. Europerl EMP-2 and Europerl 1 by Imerys.
- Zeolites such as the products marketed by the company Zeochem under the names ZeoFlair 300, Zeoflair 200, Zeoflair 100, X-MOL and X-MOL MT.
- Calcium magnesium carbonate particles such as those marketed by Imerys under the name Calcidol, by LCW (Sensient) under the name Carbomat, by Omya under the name Omyacare S 60-AV. Calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, and hydroxyapatite are also suitable.
- Kaolin and talc particles, for example marketed under the Imercare, Imercare Pharma ranges; Luzenac Pharma by the company Imerys; Rose Talc by the company Nippon Talc.
- Natural or synthetic mica, such as the product with the INCI name Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, and marketed under the names RonaFlair Silk Mica by the company Merck, Sericite PHN by the company Presperse, NHS-100 and NHS-150 by the company Myoshi Kasei, those marketed under the names PDM-NSO or FNK-100 by the company Topy.
- Boron nitride; silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass; bismuth oxychloride.
- Glass or ceramic microcapsules; such as borosilicate particles.
- Their mixtures.

If the composition includes them, the content of mineral filler(s) represents from 0.5 to 4% by weight, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Suitable organic fillers include:
- Micronized waxes, natural or synthetic.
- Metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.
- Natural organic materials such as polysaccharide powders, and in particular starch powders, in particular corn, wheat or rice starches, crosslinked or not, starch powders crosslinked by octenylsuccinate anhydride, marketed under the name Dry-Flo® by the company National Starch, waxy corn starch powders such as those marketed under the names C* GEL 04201 by the company Cargill, Corn Starch B by the company Roquette, and Organic Corn Starch by the company Draco Natural Products.
- Cellulose, particularly in the form of spherical particles, such as products such as Cellulobeads D-10, Cellulobeads D-5 and Cellulobeads USF marketed by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo.
- N-acylated amino acids with C8-C22 carbon atoms, the amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, alanine, preferably lysine. Examples include lauroyl lysine marketed in particular under the names Amihope LL by the company Ajinomoto or Corum 5105 by the company Corum.
- Acrylic (co)polymer particles, and their derivatives, in particular:
* polymethyl methacrylate (INCI name Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer), sold under the name Covabead LH85 by the company Sensient, or Polymethyl Methacrylate, under the names Sepimat P by the company SEPPIC, Microsphere M-100® by the company Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku;
* polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate (INCI name Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer) sold under the name Dow Corning 5640 Microsponge Skin Oil Adsorber by Dow Corning;
* crosslinked acrylate (INCI name: Acrylates Crosspolymer) marketed for example under the name Ganzpearl GMP-0820 by the company Ganz Chemical;
* polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate sold under the name Poly-Pore L200, Poly-Pore E200 by Amcol Health and Beauty Solutions Inc.;
* ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer (INCI name: Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer) sold under the name Polytrap 6603 Adsorber by Amcol Health and Beauty Solutions Inc.;
* crosslinked acrylate/alkyl acrylate copolymer (INCI name: Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) sold under the name Techpolymer ACP-8C by the company Sekisui Plastics;
* ethylene-acrylate copolymer, such as that marketed under the name Flobeads® by the company Sumitomo Seika Chemicals.
- acrylonitrile (co)polymer particles, in particular expanded hollow particles sold under the name Expancel by the company Akzo Nobel, or microspheres marketed under the name Micropearl F 80 ED® by the company Matsumoto.
- Polyurethane particles, for example sold under the names D-400, D-800 (INCI name: HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer (and) Silica), CS-400 (INCI name: HDI/PPG/Polycaprolactone Crosspolymer (and) Silica), by the company Toshiki.
- Silicone polymer particles, advantageously chosen from:
* silicone resin particles such as those with the INCI name Polymethylsilsesquioxane, notably marketed under the name Tospearl, notably Tospearl 145 A, by the company Momentive Performance Materials,
* silicone elastomer particles coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, such as the products marketed under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, KSP-105 (INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer), or KSP-300 (INCI name: Diphenyl Dimethicone/Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer) by the company Shin Etsu;
*silicone elastomer particles such as products marketed under the name Dowsil 9506 Cosmetic Powder, by the company Dow Corning (INCI name: Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer);
* Methylsilanol/Silicate Crosspolymer particles, for example in the form of bowls such as those marketed in particular under the name TAK-110 by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat.
- Polyamide particles, such as Nylon®, in particular Nylon 12, Nylon 6/12; such as nylon powders sold under the names Orgasol 2002 EXS NAT COS, Orgasol 4000 EXD NAT COS Caresse, by the company Arkema.
- Tetrafluoroethylene polymer particles (Teflon®).

Preferably, if the composition comprises it, the organic filler may be chosen from cellulose particles, particles of C8-C22 N-acylated amino acids such as lauroyl-lysine, as well as mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of organic filler(s) represents from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the composition may not comprise polymeric organic fillers, considered to be microplastics. It is recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, “microplastics” means solid particles, of stable form, of polymer comprising carbon atoms in the polymer chain (backbone), of synthetic origin or of chemically modified natural origin, insoluble in water (i.e.: less than 2 g/l; OECD Directive 105), of a size less than 5 mm (and of a size less than 15 mm for fibers). “Stable form” means particles remaining solid in the composition and after its use. For example, polymer particles forming a film in the composition or during its use are not considered to be of stable form. Thus, preferably, the composition according to the invention may not comprise particles of acrylic, acrylonitrile, polyurethane, polyamide, tetrafluoroethylene polymer or silicone polymer particles, as described above. However, if it does comprise them, their content would preferably be less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight and advantageously less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, if the composition comprises them, the content of organic filler(s) of the microplastic type, mentioned above, is less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and very advantageously, the composition is free of them.

Preferably, the composition may optionally comprise at least one mineral filler chosen from kaolin, mica and optionally silica other than lipophilic thickeners, and mixtures thereof. The composition may also comprise at least one organic filler, particularly cellulose, C8-C22 N-acylated amino acids such as lauroyl lysine, and mixtures thereof.

OPTIONAL ADJUVANTS

In the context of the present invention, the composition may further contain at least one optional adjuvant chosen from those usually used in the cosmetic field, in particular for makeup and/or skin and lip care compositions.

Examples include preservatives; antioxidants; thickening agents other than those listed above or other than the waxes mentioned above, complexing agents; solvents; active ingredients; perfumes; etc.

Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and/or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

The invention also relates to a method for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips, in particular the lips, in which the composition according to the invention is applied.

It is further indicated that the compositions according to the invention more particularly comprise a cosmetically (or physiologically) acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness, redness, likely to discourage the user from applying such compositions.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

The expressions “between… and…” and “ranging from… to…” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

Furthermore, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below.

Raw materials are named by their chemical name or INCI

EXAMPLES Viscosity measurement protocol

The viscosity measurement is carried out with a sample of composition at 25°C, one to three days after its manufacture (storage at room temperature), using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a spindle no. 2 or 3, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle within the formula, at a shear of 200 revolutions/min (rpm).

Tights measurement protocol

The composition is placed on several 100μm deep stainless steel cups and leveled as quickly as possible. The cups are left to dry at room temperature for one hour.

The device used is a TAXT2i texturometer. The clamp mounted on the device grips a 6 mm diameter AU4G cylinder, at the end of which is glued a smooth beige synthetic skin tip of the same diameter and 2 mm thick.
Between each measurement, the tip is cleaned with ethanol.
Multiple measurements are never taken at the same location in the depot.

The parameters of the compression tests with time retention are indicated below:

Approach speed
(or pre-speed) 1mm/s Speed
(from contact detection) 0.1mm/s Strength
(and corresponding pressure) 0.283N (or 0.01MPa) Holding time 3s Withdrawal speed
(or post-speed) 0.1mm/s

The adhesive is characterized by the detachment work measured during unloading (tensile phase), corresponding to the integral of the curve under the time axis. This work is expressed positively in joules per square meter.

Transfer measurement protocol 1. Test preparation:

Support: Beige supplale (2.5 x 5 cm) (sold by Soudotique).

Spread the composition (D) over the entire surface 3 times in a row to obtain an even coating. Repeat the operation on two other strips.
Leave the deposit to dry on a plate heated to 34°C for 30 minutes.
Possibly take a photo of each support with the deposit (made up) before the request.

2. Requests:

Preparing a tissue for each request:
Fold each tissue twice along the long edge and then twice the other way to form a square.

Dry resistance:

Rub once with the tissue folded lengthwise on one of the three makeup surfaces; the force applied is that normally used when removing makeup from the skin or lips.
Observe the condition of the rubbed support as well as the used surface of the handkerchief, in particular the remaining coloring, the transferred coloring.
Possibly take a photo.

In the case where several passes are made, they would then be made with the same force and always in the same direction (i.e.: after each pass, the handkerchief is lifted to be repositioned at the “beginning” of the strip in order to be reapplied to the deposit in the same way as in the previous pass). Possibly take a photo between each step or only at the end of the evaluation. This type of process can be implemented to evaluate the overall resistance of the deposit.

Water resistance :

Insert the second coated support without folding it into a centrifuge tube.
Add 10 grams of demineralized water.
Centrifuge for 10 minutes at 450g.
Optionally take a photo of the support after mixing, immediately after the operation.
Rub once with a tissue along the length of the support, without waiting, with the same force as that applied for dry resistance.
Observe the condition of the rubbed support as well as the used surface of the handkerchief, in particular the remaining coloring, the transferred coloring.
Possibly take a photo.

The protocol for multiple passes is the same as that detailed previously for dry resistance.

Oil resistance:

Implement the same protocol as for water resistance, on the third made-up surface, replacing the water with the same quantity of olive oil (Refined Olive Oil – Aarhuskarlshamn).

Rating:

For each request, note the result according to the table below:

Note State of the deposit Surface of the fabric in contact with the deposit - -
Total or partial removal of the deposit on the rubbed area; the surface of the support appears in places Very intense coloring – very high to total color transfer -
Partial removal resulting in significantly and visibly less intense coloration of the deposit. Intense coloring – significant color transfer +
Reduction in the intensity of the colour of the deposit is perceptible but does not reveal the support Medium staining – medium color transfer ++
No substantial variation in the color of the deposit Light staining – little color transfer +++
No variation in the color of the deposit No or barely visible staining – no to very little color transfer

Example 1

The following composition was prepared, the list of ingredients and contents of which are shown in the table below:

Ingredients – INCI name Composition 1 Dimethicone (Belsil DM 350; Wacker) 5 Lauroyl Lysine (Amihope LL; Ajinomoto) 1.1 Isododecane 15 Red 7 3.6 Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 1000 CST; Dow) 2.5 Red 28 Lake 9.2 Nylon-611/Dimethicone Copolymer (Dowsil 2-8179 Gellant; Dow) 7.3 Iron Oxide (and) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (NAI-C33-7001-10, Miyoshi) 0.1 C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (Dowsil SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax; Dow) 2 Silica Silylate (Dowsil VM-2270 Airgel Fine Particles; Dow) 0.7 Dimethicone Crosspolymer (Dowsil EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dow, Dimethicone 2cst blend) 26.8 Trimethylsiloxysilicate (Silsoft 74 Fluid, Momentive Performances Materials; in isododecane; 75% active ingredient) 17.6 Dimethiconol (Dowsil PMX-1505 Fluid; Dow, in isododecane; 15% Active Ingredient) 8.4 Preservatives / Antioxidants 0.7 Weight ratio (Trimethylsiloxysilicate + Nylon-611/Dimethicone Copolymer) / pigments 1.6

1. Preparation of the composition

1- Prepare the pigment grind by mixing the pigments in the Dimethicone and part of the isododecane, then carry out 3 passes through the three-cylinder pigment grinder.
2- In a pan, introduce the Trimethylsiloxysilicate, the Dimethiconol,THE Nylon-611/Dimethicone Copolymer, C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane and Lauroyl Lysine, at 100°C with Rayneri stirring for 30 minutes at 500 rpm.
3- Once the mixture is homogeneous, cool to 30°C and add the previously obtained pigment ground material, while stirring. Once the mixture is homogenized, add the Dimethicone Crosspolymer, and the rest of the isododecane, while stirring for 20 minutes at 600 rpm.
4- Add the Silica Silylate while stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, at 600 rpm.
5- Finally, add the preservatives and antioxidants and continue stirring for 15 minutes.
6- Condition the mixture in a suitable closed container.

2. Evaluation of the composition

We obtain a fluid, stable, homogeneous composition, whose viscosity, measured according to the protocol above, is 19.1 poises.

The composition is easily applied in a thin layer, with a uniform color from the first pass. The layer stays in place and does not migrate.

The evaluation of the tights according to the above protocol is 37.3 Jm ^-2 .

The deposit is comfortable and remains so over time.

The composition does not transfer (note +++).

Examples 2

The following compositions were prepared, the list of ingredients and contents of which are shown in the table below:

Ingredients – INCI name Comparative Composition A Composition 2 invention Dimethicone (Belsil DM 350; Wacker) 5.6 5.6 Lauroyl Lysine (Amihope LL; Ajinomoto) 1.1 1.1 Isododecane qs 100% qs 100% Red 7 10 10 Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 1000 CST; Dow) 1.9 1.9 Nylon-611/Dimethicone Copolymer (Dowsil 2-8179 Gellant; Dow) 8.2 8.2 C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (Dowsil SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax; Dow) 2 2 Silica Silylate (Dowsil VM-2270 Airgel Fine Particles; Dow) 0.7 0.7 Dimethicone Crosspolymer (Dowsil EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dow, in a Dimethicone 2cst) 26.8 26.8 Trimethylsiloxysilicate (Silsoft 74 Fluid, Momentive Performances Materials; in isododecane; 75% active ingredient) 19.5 19.5 Dimethiconol (Dowsil PMX-1505 Fluid; Dow, in isododecane; 15% Active Ingredient) - 8.4 Weight ratio (Trimethylsiloxysilicate + Nylon-611/Dimethicone Copolymer) / pigments 2.3 2.3

1. Preparation of the composition

We proceed as for example 1.

2. Evaluation of compositions

Composition A Composition 2 Viscosity 21.2 Poises 31.6 poises Tights (J.m ^-2 ) 47.9 53.6 Transfer Dry + / Water + / Oil - - Dry ++ / Water ++ / Oil ++

The compositions are easily applied in a thin layer, with a uniform color from the first pass. The layer stays in place and does not migrate.

However, the composition according to the invention exhibits significantly improved performance in the three types of dry, water and oil resistance tests compared to comparative composition A.

Comparative example 3

The following composition was prepared, the list of ingredients and contents of which are shown in the table below:

Ingredients – INCI name Comparative Composition B Dimethicone (Belsil DM 350; Wacker) 5.6 Lauroyl Lysine (Amihope LL; Ajinomoto) 1.1 Isododecane qs 100% Red 7 10 Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 1000 CST; Dow) 1.9 Nylon-611/Dimethicone Copolymer (Dowsil 2-8179 Gellant; Dow) 12.5 C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (Dowsil SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax; Dow) 2 Silica Silylate (Dowsil VM-2270 Airgel Fine Particles; Dow) 0.7 Dimethicone Crosspolymer (Dowsil EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dow, in Dimethicone 2cst) 26.8 Trimethylsiloxysilicate (Silsoft 74 Fluid, Momentive Performances Materials; in isododecane; 75% active ingredient) 30 Dimethiconol (Dowsil PMX-1505 Fluid; Dow, in isododecane; 15% Active Ingredient) 8.4 Weight ratio (Trimethylsiloxysilicate + Nylon-611/Dimethicone Copolymer) / pigments 3.5

1. Preparation of the composition

We proceed as for example 1.

2. Evaluation of the composition

Composition B Viscosity 113.6 Poises J.m tights ^-2 322.8 Transfer Dry +++ / Water +++ / Oil ++

The composition is applied quite easily in a thin layer, with a uniform color from the first pass.

The deposit stays in place and does not migrate but it is sticky after application and over time.

Comparative Example 4

The following composition was prepared, the list of ingredients and contents of which are shown in the table below:

Ingredients – INCI name Comparative composition C Dimethicone (Belsil DM 350; Wacker) 5.6 Lauroyl Lysine (Amihope LL; Ajinomoto) 1.1 Isododecane qsp 100% Red 7 13 Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 1000 CST; Dow) 1.9 Nylon-611/Dimethicone Copolymer (Dowsil 2-8179 Gellant; Dow) 3.6 C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (Dowsil SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax; Dow) 2 Silica Silylate (Dowsil VM-2270 Airgel Fine Particles; Dow) 0.7 Dimethicone Crosspolymer (Dowsil EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dow, in a Dimethicone 2cst) 26.8 Trimethylsiloxysilicate (Silsoft 74 Fluid, Momentive Performances Materials; in isododecane; 75% active ingredient) 8.5 Dimethiconol (Dowsil PMX-1505 Fl id; Dow, in isododecane; 15% Active Ingredient) 8.4 Weight ratio (Trimethylsiloxysilicate + Nylon-611/Dimethicone Copolymer) / pigments 0.8

1. Preparation of the composition

We proceed as for example 1.

2. Evaluation of the composition

Composition B Viscosity 12.4 Poises J.m tights ^-2 14.6 Transfer Dry - / Water + / Oil - - -

The composition is easily applied in a thin layer, with a uniform color from the first pass. The non-sticky layer stays in place and does not migrate.

However, resistance to dry, water and oil tests is degraded.

Claims (29)

Liquid cosmetic composition for making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
- at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one first apolar hydrocarbon oil, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms,
- at least one second oil chosen from silicone oils, volatile or non-volatile,
- at least one silicone elastomer carried in hydrocarbon or silicone oil, identical or not to the first oil(s) or to the second oil(s),
- at least one silicone resin,
- at least one silicone polyamide,
- at least one silicone eraser,
- at least 8%, preferably at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of pigments,
- optionally water at a content of less than 5% by weight, preferably 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,
- the weight ratio (silicone resin + silicone polyamide) / pigment(s) being between 1 and 2.7, preferably between 1 and 2.5. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the first apolar hydrocarbon oil is chosen from branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes, such as preferably isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, C8-9 Isoalkane, C11-13 Isoalkane, and mixtures thereof; from linear alkanes, preferably C ₈ -C ₁₃ , and mixtures thereof, such as preferably n-dodecane, n-tetradecane, C9-12 Alkane, the undecane-tridecane mixture; as well as mixtures thereof; and preferably the first apolar hydrocarbon oil is at least isododecane. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of first apolar volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) ranges from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 25 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second oil is chosen from volatile silicone oils, linear or cyclic, such as in particular those with the following INCI names: Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclotetrasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Caprylyl Methicone, Disiloxane, Trisiloxane, Dimethicone in particular with a viscosity of less than 5 cst, their mixtures, preferably from volatile linear silicone oils; from non-volatile silicone oils, phenylated or non-phenylated, in particular those with the following INCI names: Dimethicone, Alkyldimethicones in which the alkyl group is C2-C24, phenylated silicones chosen from Phenyl trimethicone, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone; Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane; Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone; Diphenyl Dimethicone; Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane; as well as their mixtures; preferably among volatile or non-volatile Dimethicone, and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises, as second silicone oil(s), at least one volatile silicone oil, preferably linear, and at least one non-volatile silicone oil, preferably non-phenylated. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of second silicone oil(s) varies from 25 to 35% by weight, preferably from 27 to 32% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of second non-volatile silicone oil(s) varies from 8 to 15% by weight, preferably 10 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone resin is chosen from alkylsiloxysilicate, arylsiloxysilicate, alkylaryl siloxysilicate, polysilsesquioxane resins, as well as their mixtures; more particularly from silicone resins with the following INCI names: trimethylsiloxysilicate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, polypropylsilsesquioxane, as well as their mixtures; the composition preferably comprising at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate resin. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone resin is present in a content ranging from 10 to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 12 to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone elastomer is chosen from the compounds with the following INCI names: Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Vinyl Dimethicone / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Dimethicone / Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, as well as their mixture and preferably Dimethicone Crosspolymer. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil carrying the silicone elastomer is chosen from Dimethicone, in particular with a viscosity ranging from 1 to 500 cSt at 25°C, and from isododecane, alone or as a mixture. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone elastomer content, expressed as active material, varies from 2 to 8% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone polyamide comprises at least one unit corresponding to the general formula (I):


1) in which: G' represents C(O) when G represents -C(O)-NH-Y-NH- and G' represents –NH- when G represents –NH-C(O)-YC(O)-
2) R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ , identical or different, represent a group chosen from:
linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon groups, _C1 to _C40 , saturated or unsaturated, which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and which may be substituted in part or completely by fluorine atoms,
_C6 to _C10 aryl groups, optionally substituted by one or more _C1 to _C4 alkyl groups,
polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms,
3) the X, identical or different, represent a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkylene di-yl group, which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and/or nitrogen atoms,
4) Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene group, saturated or unsaturated, C ₁ to C ₅₀ , which may contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and/or may carry as a substituent one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C ₃ to C ₈ cycloalkyl, C ₁ to C ₄₀ alkyl, C ₅ to C ₁₀ aryl, phenyl optionally substituted by 1 to 3 C ₁ to C ₃ alkyl, C ₁ to C ₃ hydroxyalkyl and C ₁ to C ₆ amino alkyl groups, or
Y represents a group corresponding to the formula: R ₈ T <; in which
- T represents a trivalent or tetravalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C ₃ to C ₂₄ hydrocarbon group optionally substituted by a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and
- R ⁸ represents a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₅₀ alkyl group, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulfonamide groups which may or may not be linked to another chain of the polymer,
6) n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer ranging from 50 to 1000, preferably from 50 to 700 and more preferably from 50 to 200. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone polyamide is at least chosen from the polymers with the INCI name Nylon-611/Dimethicone Copolymer. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone polyamide content ranges from 5 to 12% by weight, preferably 6 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone gum has the following formula:

in which:
- R7, R8, R11 and R12 are the same or different, and each is chosen from alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
- R9 and R10 are identical or different, and each is chosen from an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, an aryl radical, a hydroxyl radical, a vinyl radical, preferably an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical;
- X is chosen from an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical, a vinyl radical, preferably an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical;
- n and p are chosen so as to give the silicone gum a molecular mass greater than or equal to 400,000 g/mol, and in particular can each take values ranging from 0 to 5000, knowing that n and p are not zero simultaneously. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone gum is a polydimethylsiloxane gum optionally comprising at least one aryl radical, a dimethiconol gum, or mixtures thereof, and preferably a dimethiconol gum. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone gum is present in a content, expressed as active material, ranging from 0.7 to 5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one coloring material in particular chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, as well as their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pigment content represents from 8 to 15% by weight, preferably from 10 to 14% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one wax chosen from polar or apolar hydrocarbon waxes, or from silicone waxes, as well as their mixtures; more particularly, the composition comprises at least one silicone wax, preferably C ₃₀ - ₄₅ Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane wax (INCI name). Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the wax content(s) varies from 1 to 5% by weight, in particular from 1.5 to 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises water, at a content less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, advantageously less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one lipophilic thickening agent, chosen from silicas, preferably hydrophobically treated; lipophilic clays, as well as their mixtures, and preferably silicas, preferably hydrophobically treated. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of lipophilic thickening agent represents from 0.2 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises
- at least one mineral filler, more particularly chosen from silica, perlite, calcium magnesium carbonate, kaolin, talc, natural or synthetic mica, boron nitride, glass or ceramic, as well as mixtures thereof; advantageously in a content representing from 0.5 to 4% by weight, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and/or
- at least one organic filler, chosen more particularly from micronized waxes, metallic soaps, polysaccharides, cellulose, N-acylated amino acids, particles of acrylic (co)polymers, acrylonitrile (co)polymer, polyurethane, polyamide, polytetrafluoroethylene, silicone polymer or mixtures thereof; preferably N-acylated amino acids; advantageously in a content representing from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil, more particularly chosen from C ₁₀ -C ₂₆ alcohols; ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, preferably C ₃ -C ₁₆ ; non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oils comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12, and optionally one or more ether or hydroxyl functions; mixtures thereof; the content of additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil(s) if the composition comprises any, being more particularly less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably the composition does not comprise any. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil, different from the first oil(s) chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, more particularly paraffin oil, squalane of vegetable origin, isoeicosane, mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons such as C18-21 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, their mixtures; the content of additional non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil(s), if the composition comprises any, is less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Method for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips, in particular the lips, in which the composition according to any one of the preceding claims is applied.