FR3152391A3 - KERATINOUS FIBERS TREATMENT PROCESS - Google Patents

Abstract

PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATINOUS FIBERS The present invention mainly relates to a process for remodeling, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the steps of: (i) applying a composition A to the keratinous fibers, wherein composition A comprises: (a) at least one protein denaturing agent, (ii) applying a composition B to the keratinous fibers, wherein composition B comprises: (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one compound, different from the (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of ketoacids, their salts and their mixtures, and (iii) optionally heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50ºC, preferably above 100ºC, and more preferably above 150ºC, once both steps (i) and (ii) have been completed, wherein the process comprises step (i) followed by step (ii) or step (ii) followed by step (i). Figure for abstract: none

Description

KERATINOUS FIBERS TREATMENT PROCESS

The present invention mainly relates to a treatment process, preferably of remodeling, and more preferably of smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair.

STATE OF THE ART

Reshaping keratin fibers such as hair by heating them with an iron is popular for making unruly keratin fibers manageable, reducing volume, and improving the appearance of keratin fibers. This method of reshaping using a heated iron is convenient for quick styling, but the style only lasts for a short time, for example, until the next shampoo. A long-lasting straightening method is required by many consumers.

On the other hand, conventional permanent remodeling methods using a reducing agent and an alkaline agent, as well as an oxidizing agent, which with heating, can provide keratin fibers with long-lasting styling, but they have several disadvantages such as long processing time, damage to keratin fibers and bad odor.

So far, some remodeling processes of keratinous fibers without the use of reducing agent and oxidizing agent have been reported.

For example, US-A-2023/0000742 discloses a semi-permanent hair straightening composition in liquid form with an aqueous base, or in emulsion form with a fatty phase, comprising 15 to 20% by weight of glyoxylic acid and 0.1 to 5% by weight of levulinic acid.

1. une étape d’application d’un agent de traitement capillaire sur les cheveux, contenant (a) de l’acide lévulinique à 13 à 30 % en masse et (b) de l’acide glyoxylique à 1 à 2 % en masse, la teneur totale en acide lévulinique et en acide glyoxylique étant de 15 % en masse ou plus et le pH allant de 1,5 à 3,0 ;
2. une étape consistant à laisser les cheveux ;
3. une étape de lavage des cheveux à l’eau ; et
4. une étape de lissage des cheveux avec un fer à lisser ou de coiffage, une brosse et similaires à une certaine température simultanément avec ou après le séchage des cheveux.

Also, JP-A-2019-123701 discloses a hair treatment method comprising.

1. a step of applying a hair treatment agent to the hair, containing (a) 13-30% by mass of levulinic acid and (b) 1-2% by mass of glyoxylic acid, the total content of levulinic acid and glyoxylic acid being 15% by mass or more and the pH being 1.5-3.0;
2. a step of leaving the hair;
3. a step of washing the hair with water; and
4. a step of straightening hair with a hair straightener or styling iron, brush and the like at a certain temperature simultaneously with or after drying the hair.

1. l’application d’une solution comprenant un alpha-cétoacide opérationnel comme agent tampon ;
2. le maintien de la solution en contact avec les cheveux pendant 15 à 120 minutes ;
3. le séchage des cheveux, et
4. le lissage des cheveux avec un fer à lisser à une température d’approximativement 200 +/- 50 °C.

Also, US-A-2012-312317 discloses a semi-permanent hair straightening process, comprising:

1. the application of a solution comprising an alpha-keto acid operable as a buffering agent;
2. keeping the solution in contact with the hair for 15 to 120 minutes;
3. drying hair, and
4. straightening hair with a hair straightener at a temperature of approximately 200 +/- 50 °C.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

There is still a need to improve the method of remodeling keratinous fibers.

An objective of the present invention is to provide an improved process for remodeling keratinous fibers such as hair, which can provide the keratinous fibers with improved remodeling effects.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a process of remodeling, preferably of smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the steps of:

(i) application of a composition A to the keratinous fibers, in which the composition A comprises:

(a) at least one protein denaturing agent,

(ii) application of a composition B to the keratinous fibers, in which the composition B comprises:

(b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and

(c) at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and their mixtures, and

(iii) optionally heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50 ºC, preferably above 100 ºC and more preferably above 150 ºC, once both steps (i) and (ii) have been completed,

in which the process comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i).

The (a) protein denaturing agent may be selected from urea and its derivatives.

The amount of the (a) compound(s) in composition A may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

The amount of the (b) compound(s) in composition B may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition B.

The (c) compound may be selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof.

The amount of the (c) compound(s) in composition B may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition B.

The weight ratio between the (b) compound(s) and the (c) compound(s) included in composition B can range from 1:1 to 10:1, preferably from 1.5:1 to 7:1, and more preferably from 2:1 to 5:1.

The pH of composition B may be 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, and more preferably 5 or less.

The process according to the present invention may not include an application of ammonia or a thiol compound to the keratinous fibers.

The process according to the present invention may not include an application of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent to the keratinous fibers.

Composition A may further comprise at least one polyol.

The amount of the polyol(s) in composition A may be from 5% to 60% by weight, preferably from 10% to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

Composition A may have a pH of 4 to 11, preferably 5 to 10, and more preferably 6 to 9.

The present invention may relate to a remodeling kit, preferably for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:

1. au moins un agent dénaturant de protéine, et

a composition A comprising:

1. at least one protein denaturing agent, and

1. au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe consistant en acide glyoxylique, solvates d’acide glyoxylique, sels d’acide glyoxylique, esters d’acide glyoxylique, amides d’acide glyoxylique et leurs mélanges ; et
2. au moins un composé, différent du (b) composé, choisi dans le groupe consistant en cétoacides, leurs sels et leurs mélanges.

a composition B comprising:

1. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and
2. at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and their mixtures.

The present invention also relates to a use of a combination of a composition A and a composition B, for reshaping, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, in which

1. au moins un agent dénaturant de protéine,

Composition A includes:

1. at least one protein denaturing agent,

1. au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe consistant en acide glyoxylique, solvates d’acide glyoxylique, sels d’acide glyoxylique, esters d’acide glyoxylique, amides d’acide glyoxylique et leurs mélanges ; et
2. au moins un composé, différent du (b) composé, choisi dans le groupe consistant en cétoacides, leurs sels et leurs mélanges.

Composition B includes:

1. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and
2. at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and their mixtures.

After extensive research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a keratin fiber remodeling process, which can provide keratin fibers with improved remodeling effects with longer durability with the application of two different compositions, composition A and composition B, wherein composition A comprises at least one protein denaturing agent, and composition B comprises at least one glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof and at least one keto acid or salts thereof.

Thus, the present invention mainly relates to a process of remodeling, preferably of smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the steps of:

(i) application of a composition A to the keratinous fibers, in which the composition A comprises:

(a) at least one protein denaturing agent,

(ii) application of a composition B to the keratinous fibers, in which the composition B comprises:

(b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and

(c) at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and their mixtures, and

(iii) heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50 ºC, preferably above 100 ºC, and more preferably above 150 ºC, once both steps (i) and (ii) have been completed,

in which the process comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i).

The present invention can improve a remodeling process of keratinous fibers such as hair, with the application of two different compositions, composition A and composition B, providing improved remodeling effects.

The remodeling of keratinous fibers, such as hair, here includes the straightening or curling of keratinous fibers.

The present invention can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with more lasting remodeling, preferably smoothing, effects. Thus, the present invention can lengthen or prolong the remodeling effects for keratinous fibers. In particular, the present invention can further maintain the remodeled shape of the keratinous fibers, or can prevent or reduce the loss of the remodeled shape of the keratinous fibers over time.

The present invention may cause less damage to keratinous fibers compared to conventional remodeling processes because the present invention does not need to use reducing/oxidizing agents. Keratinous fibers treated with the present invention may exhibit longer durability as well as ease of combing.

In addition, the present invention can use very little or no ammonia or thiol compound, and therefore, the odor during use of the present invention can be reduced compared to conventional processes that require the use of ammonia or a thiol compound. Also, the present invention can exhibit good ease of use, for example, short processing time.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

[Process]

The present invention relates to a process for remodeling, preferably for smoothing keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of:

(i) application of a composition A to the keratinous fibers, in which the composition A comprises:

(a) at least one protein denaturing agent,

(ii) application of a composition B to the keratinous fibers, in which the composition B comprises:

(b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and

(c) at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and their mixtures, and

(iii) optionally heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50 ºC, preferably above 100 ºC, and more preferably above 150 ºC, once both steps (i) and (ii) have been completed,

in which the process comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i).

The process according to the present invention aims at remodeling keratin fibers such as hair, preferably remodeling for a long time, and more preferably remodeling even after shampooing. In this sense, the process according to the present invention can be a semi-permanent remodeling process.

{Step (i)}

Step (i) consists of applying a composition A to the keratinous fibers. Composition A will be described in detail later.

Application of composition A can be done by any means, such as a brush and a comb.

The bath ratio between the applied composition A and the keratinous fibers can range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.3 and 2. The expression “bath ratio” is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the applied composition and the total weight of the keratinous fibers.

The amount of composition A applied to the keratinous fibers is not particularly limited, but generally ranges from 0.1 g to 1 g relative to 1 g of keratinous fibers.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratinous fibers are cleaned before step (i). This cleaning step may be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratinous fibers, followed by rinsing the keratinous fibers. After rinsing, the keratinous fibers may be dried. It is preferable that the keratinous fibers are wet just before step (i). The cleaning step is preferably carried out once before carrying out the process of the present invention.

It may be possible, after the application of composition A, to leave the keratinous fibers as they are for a certain period of time; typically from 1 second to 10 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 5 minutes, and more preferably from 10 seconds to 3 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow composition A to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.

Composition A may or may not be rinsed from the keratinous fibers after step (i). In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratinous fibers are rinsed with water to rinse the applied composition A from the keratinous fibers after step (i).

{Step (ii)}

Step (ii) consists of applying a composition B to the keratinous fibers. Composition B will be described in detail later.

Application of composition B can be done by any means, such as a brush and a comb.

The bath ratio between the applied composition B and the keratinous fibers can range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.3 and 2, respectively. The expression “bath ratio” is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the applied composition and the total weight of the keratinous fibers.

The amount of composition B applied to the keratinous fibers is not particularly limited, but generally ranges from 0.1 g to 1 g relative to 1 g of keratinous fibers.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratinous fibers are cleaned before step (ii). This cleaning step may be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratinous fibers, followed by rinsing the keratinous fibers. After rinsing, the keratinous fibers may be dried. It is preferable that the keratinous fibers are wet just before step (ii).

It may be possible, after the application of composition B, to leave the keratinous fibers as they are for a certain period of time; typically from 1 second to 30 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 20 minutes, and more preferably from 10 seconds to 15 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow composition B to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.

Composition B may or may not be rinsed from the keratinous fibers after step (ii). In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratinous fibers are rinsed with water to rinse the applied composition B from the keratinous fibers after step (ii).

In a preferred embodiment, there is no cleaning step between steps (i) and (ii).

In one embodiment of the present invention, the process comprises step (i) and then step (ii) in that order. For this embodiment, it is preferable that there is no rinsing step between step (i) and step (ii).

In one embodiment of the present invention, the process comprises step (ii) and then step (i) in that order. For this embodiment, it is preferable that there is a rinsing step between step (ii) and step (i).

In another preferred embodiment, the process comprises step (i) then step (ii) then step (i) again in that order. For this embodiment, it is preferable that there is no rinsing step between step (i) and step (ii), and that there is a rinsing step between step (ii) and step (i).

{Step (iii)}

Step (iii) is an optional step. Step (iii) consists of heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50 ºC, preferably above 100 ºC and more preferably above 150 ºC. Step (iii) can be carried out once both steps (i) and (ii) have been completed.

In one embodiment, the keratinous fibers are dried just before step (iii). The drying of the keratinous fibers can be carried out with a conventional drying means such as a hair dryer.

In step (iii), the keratinous fibers, which are preferably dry, are heated to a temperature above 50 ºC, preferably above 100 ºC and more preferably above 150 ºC, with a heating element, preferably a heating iron. This temperature may be below 250 °C, preferably below 240 °C, and more preferably below 230 °C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50 °C and below 250 °C, preferably above 100 °C and below 240 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C and below 230 °C.

Heating can be done with conventional means, such as applying a heating iron or curling iron, or drying with a hair dryer.

Also, the reshaping can be performed by providing the keratinous fibers with any mechanical force such as mechanical tension. The mechanical force can be applied to the keratinous fibers by any reshaping means to deform the keratinous fibers into a desired shape. For example, the mechanical power can be provided by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of at least one iron, at least one curling iron, and a combination thereof. Any conventional iron or curling iron can be used as a reshaping means.

The reshaping means may comprise at least one heating element. Thus, the reshaping means may be at least one heating iron and/or at least one heating curling iron. By reshaping the keratinous fibers, the keratinous fibers may be straightened or curled. Thus, the process according to the present invention may be intended to straighten or curl keratinous fibers, such as hair.

Any conventional heating iron can be used as a heating iron. The heating iron may have at least one plate, preferably two plates, which can be heated, for example, by electrical heating. The heated plate(s) can be applied to the keratinous fibers and moved in the direction of the keratinous fibers to straighten them.

It is preferable that the heating iron has two plates, and the keratinous fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, in which at least one of the plates can be heated, and then the two plates are moved in the direction of the keratinous fibers to straighten them.

It is preferable that the heating iron, in particular a part thereof in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, has a temperature greater than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably greater than 100°C and less than 240°C, and even more preferably greater than 150°C and less than 230°C.

Step (iii) may be carried out by one or more passes of the heating iron in the direction of the keratinous fibers. Step (iii) may be controlled not only by the temperature of the heating iron but also by the number of passes of the heating iron.

Heating time can depend on the temperature of the heating iron, but also on the number of passes of the heating iron. It can be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

Any conventional heated curling iron can be used as a heated curling iron. If the keratin fibers are wrapped around a heated curling iron, this wrapping can be done along the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, along half the length of the keratin fibers. Depending, for example, on the hairstyle shape and the desired amount of curl, the wrapping can be done with thicker or thinner strands.

It is preferable that the heating curler, in particular a part thereof in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, has a temperature greater than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably greater than 100°C and less than 240°C, and even more preferably greater than 150°C and less than 230°C.

Step (iii) can be carried out by holding the keratinous fibers on a heated curling iron so that mechanical tension is applied to the keratinous fibers. Step (iii) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heated iron but also by the strength of the mechanical tension.

The heating time can depend on the temperature of the heating curler but also on the strength of the mechanical tension. It can be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.

If necessary, before step (iii), mechanical tension can be applied to the keratinous fibers as explained above.

Hereinafter, the details of compositions A and B used in the process according to the present invention will be explained.

Composition A

1. au moins un agent dénaturant de protéine.

Composition A of the present invention comprises:

1. at least one protein denaturing agent.

(Shape)

Composition A used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O/W, W/O or multiple type (if the composition used for the present invention comprises at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O/W) or (W/O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.

Composition A of the present invention is preferably in the form of a solution, and more preferably an aqueous solution.

Composition A used for the present invention may be in any dosage form. For example, composition A used for the present invention may be in the form of any treatment for hair in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel and the like.

(pH)

Composition A used for the present invention may have a pH of 11 or less, preferably 10 or less, and more preferably 9 or less, which is measured at 25°C.

Composition A used for the present invention may have a pH of 4 or more, preferably 5 or more, and more preferably 6 or more, which is measured at 25°C.

Composition A used for the present invention may have a pH of 4 to 11, preferably 5 to 10, and more preferably 6 to 9, which is measured at 25°C.

1. Agent dénaturant de protéine

The ingredients of Composition A are described in detail below.

1. Protein denaturing agent

Composition A in the process according to the present invention comprises at least one (a) protein denaturing agent. Two or more (a) protein denaturing agents may be included in composition A. Thus, a single type of (a) protein denaturing agent or a combination of different types of (a) protein denaturing agents may be used in composition A.

Herein, the term "protein denaturing agent" refers to compounds that have a function of loosening a higher-order structure of proteins and dissociating hydrogen bonds and hydrophobic interactions between polypeptide side chains. The protein denaturing agent may be a protein denaturing osmolyte/chaotropic agents.

The (a) protein denaturing agent is different from the (b) and (c) compounds explained below.

The (a) protein denaturing agent of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it has the functions explained above, and may be selected from urea and its derivatives; guanidine and its salts, such as guanidinium chloride; salts which denature proteins, such as perchlorates, e.g., lithium perchlorate, lithium acetate, magnesium chloride, KCl, LiCl, NH ₄ Cl, (NH ₄ ) ₂ SO ₄ ; surfactants, preferably anionic surfactants, which denature proteins, such as sodium dodecyl sulfate and lithium dodecyl sulfate; and organic solvents such as ethanol, n-butanol, 2-propanol and phenol.

In a preferred embodiment, the (a) protein denaturing agent is selected from urea and urea derivatives.

The term "urea derivative" means any compound other than urea (CO(NH ₂ ) ₂ ) itself, comprising in its chemical formula a carbonyl group simply linked to two nitrogen atoms, namely: a unit

Preferably, the (a) compound(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or (II), their salts or their hydrates:

(I)
(II)

• R1, R2, R3 et R4 représentent indépendamment :

in which:

• R1, R2, R3 and R4 independently represent:

(i) a hydrogen atom or

(ii) a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic C ₁ -C _{5 alkyl or lower alkenyl radical,} a C ₁ -C _{5 alkoxy radical,} a C ₆ -C _{18 aryl radical,} a 5 to 8 membered heterocyclic radical; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical chosen from the following radicals: hydroxyl, (di)(C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)amino such as dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C ₆ -C _{18 aryl,} carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide;

• lorsque R1, R2 et R3 représentent un atome d’hydrogène, R4 peut désigner un radical carboxamide, méthoxy, éthoxy, 1,2,4-triazolyle, cyclopentyle, (C₁-C₆)alkylcarbonyle tel qu’acétyle, ou (C₁-C₆)alcoxycarbonyle tel que méthoxycarbonyle ou éthoxycarbonyle, -CO-CH=CH-COOH, phényle facultativement substitué par un atome de chlore ou un radical hydroxyle, benzyle ou 2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyle ;
• lorsque R1 et R3 représentent un atome d’hydrogène, R2 peut représenter un atome d’hydrogène ou un radical méthyle ou éthyle et R4 peut représenter un radical acétyle ;
• lorsque R1=R2=H, R3 et R4 peuvent former, avec l’atome d’azote qui les porte, un cycle pipéridine, 3-méthylpyrazole, 3,5-diméthylpyrazole ou maléimide ;
• R1 et R2 ainsi que R3 et R4 peuvent former, avec l’atome d’azote qui les porte, un cycle imidazole ;
• R5 et R6 représentent indépendamment l’un de l’autre :

it being understood that:

• when R1, R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R4 may denote a carboxamide, methoxy, ethoxy, 1,2,4-triazolyl, cyclopentyl, (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkylcarbonyl radical such as acetyl, or (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkoxycarbonyl such as methoxycarbonyl or ethoxycarbonyl, -CO-CH=CH-COOH, phenyl optionally substituted by a chlorine atom or a hydroxyl, benzyl or 2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl radical;
• when R1 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R2 can represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl or ethyl radical and R4 can represent an acetyl radical;
• when R1=R2=H, R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, a piperidine, 3-methylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole or maleimide ring;
• R1 and R2 as well as R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, an imidazole ring;
• R5 and R6 represent independently of each other:

(i) a hydrogen atom or

• A est un radical choisi parmi les radicaux suivants : CH₂-CH₂, CH=CH, CH₂-CO, CO-NH, CH=N, CO-CO, CHOH-CHOH, (HOOC)CH-CH, CHOH-CO, CH₂-CH₂-CH₂, CH₂-NH-CO, CH=C(CH₃)-CO, NH-CO-NH, CH₂-CH₂-CO, CH₂-N(CH₃)-CH₂, NH-CH₂-NH, CO-CH(CH₃)-CH₂, CO-CH₂-CO, CO-NH-CO, CO-CH(COOH)-CH₂, CO-CH=C(COOH), CO-CH=C(CH₃), CO-C(NH₂)=CH, CO-C(CH₃)=N, CO-CH=CH, CO-CH=N et CO-N=CH.

(ii) a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic C ₁ -C _{5 alkyl,} acyl or lower alkenyl radical, a C ₁ -C _{5 alkoxy radical,} a C ₆ -C _{18 aryl radical,} a 5 to 8 membered heterocyclic radical; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical chosen from the following radicals: hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C ₆ -C _{18 aryl,} carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide;

• A is a radical chosen from the following radicals: CH ₂ -CH ₂ , CH=CH, CH ₂ -CO, CO-NH, CH=N, CO-CO, CHOH-CHOH, (HOOC)CH-CH, CHOH-CO, CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ , CH ₂ -NH-CO, CH=C(CH ₃ )-CO, NH-CO-NH, CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CO, CH ₂ -N(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ , NH-CH ₂ -NH, CO-CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ , CO-CH ₂ -CO, CO-NH-CO, CO-CH(COOH)-CH ₂ , CO-CH=C(COOH), CO-CH=C(CH ₃ ), CO-C(NH ₂ )=CH, CO-C(CH ₃ )=N, CO-CH=CH, CO-CH=N and CO-N=CH.

• urée ;
• méthylurée ;
• éthylurée ;
• propylurée ;
• n-butylurée ;
• sec-butylurée ;
• isobutylurée ;
• tert-butylurée ;
• cyclopentylurée ;
• éthoxyurée ;
• hydroxyéthylurée ;
• N-(2-hydroxypropyl)urée ;
• N-(3-hydroxypropyl)urée ;
• N-(2-diméthylaminopropyl)urée ;
• N-(3-diméthylaminopropyl)urée ;
• 1-(3-hydroxyphényl)urée ;
• benzylurée ;
• N-carbamoylmaléamide ;
• acide N-carbamoylmalémique ;
• pipéridinecarboxamide ;
• 1,2,4-triazol-4-urée ;
• acide hydantoïque ;
• allophanate de méthyle ;
• allophanate d’éthyle ;
• acétylurée ;
• hydroxyéthylène-urée ;
• 2-(hydroxyéthyl)éthylène-urée ;
• diallylurée ;
• chloroéthylurée ;
• N,N-diméthylurée ;
• N,N-diéthylurée ;
• N,N-dipropylurée ;
• cyclopentyl-1-méthylurée ;
• 1,3-diméthylurée ;
• 1,3-diéthylurée ;
• 1,3-bis(2-hydroxyéthyl)urée ;
• 1,3-bis(2-hydroxypropyl)urée ;
• 1,3-bis(3-hydroxypropyl)urée ;
• 1,3-dipropylurée ;
• éthyl-3-propylurée ;
• sec-butyl-3-méthylurée ;
• isobutyl-3-méthylurée ;
• cyclopentyl-3-méthylurée ;
• N-acétyl-N'-méthylurée ;
• triméthylurée ;
• butyl-3,3-diméthylurée ;
• tétraméthylurée ; et
• benzylurée.

Among the compounds of formula (I) which are particularly preferred according to the invention, mention may be made of:

• urea;
• methylurea;
• ethylurea;
• propylurea;
• n-butylurea;
• sec-butylurea;
• isobutylurea;
• tert-butylurea;
• cyclopentylurea;
• ethoxyurea;
• hydroxyethylurea;
• N-(2-hydroxypropyl)urea;
• N-(3-hydroxypropyl)urea;
• N-(2-dimethylaminopropyl)urea;
• N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)urea;
• 1-(3-hydroxyphenyl)urea;
• benzylurea;
• N-carbamoylmaleamide;
• N-carbamoylmalemic acid;
• piperidinecarboxamide;
• 1,2,4-triazol-4-urea;
• hydantoic acid;
• methyl allophanate;
• ethyl allophanate;
• acetylurea;
• hydroxyethylene urea;
• 2-(hydroxyethyl)ethyleneurea;
• diallylurea;
• chloroethylurea;
• N,N-dimethylurea;
• N,N-diethylurea;
• N,N-dipropylurea;
• cyclopentyl-1-methylurea;
• 1,3-dimethylurea;
• 1,3-diethylurea;
• 1,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)urea;
• 1,3-bis(2-hydroxypropyl)urea;
• 1,3-bis(3-hydroxypropyl)urea;
• 1,3-dipropylurea;
• ethyl-3-propylurea;
• sec-butyl-3-methylurea;
• isobutyl-3-methylurea;
• cyclopentyl-3-methylurea;
• N-acetyl-N'-methylurea;
• trimethylurea;
• butyl-3,3-dimethylurea;
• tetramethylurea; and
• benzylurea.

• acide parabanique ;
• 1,2-dihydro-3H-1,2,4-triazol-2-one ;
• acide barbiturique ;
• uracile ;
• 1-méthyluracile ;
• 3-méthyluracile ;
• 5-méthyluracile ;
• 1,3-diméthyluracile ;
• 5-azauracile ;
• 6-azauracile ;
• 5-fluorouracile ;
• 6-fluorouracile ;
• 1,3-diméthyl-5-fluorouracile ;
• 5-aminouracile ;
• 6-aminouracile ;
• 6-amino-1-méthyluracile ;
• 6-amino-1,3-diméthyluracile ;
• 4-chlorouracile ;
• 5-chlorouracile ;
• 5,6-dihydrouracile ;
• 5,6-dihydro-5-méthyluracile ;
• 2-imidazolidone ;
• 1-méthyl-2-imidazolidinone ;
• 1,3-diméthyl-2-imidazolidinone ;
• 4,5-dihydroxy-imidazolidine-2-one ;
• 1-(2-hydroxyéthyl)-2-imidazolidinone ;
• 1-(2-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone ;
• 1-(3-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone ;
• 4,5-dihydroxy-1,3-diméthyl-imidazolidin-2-one ;
• 1,3-bis(2-hydroxyéthyl)-2-imidazolidinone ;
• acide 2-imidazolidone-4-carboxylique ;
• 1-(2-aminoéthyl)-2-imidazole ;
• 4-méthyl-1,2,4-triazoline-3,5-dione ;
• 2,4-dihydroxy-6-méthylpyrimidine ;
• 1-amino-4,5-dihydro-1H-tétrazol-5-one ;
• hydantoïne ;
• 1-méthylhydantoïne ;
• 5-méthylhydantoïne ;
• 5,5-diméthylhydantoïne ;
• 5-éthylhydantoïne ;
• 5-n-propylhydantoïne ;
• 5-éthyl-5-méthylhydantoïne ;
• 5-hydroxy-5-méthylhydantoïne ;
• 5-hydroxyméthylhydantoïne ;
• 1-allylhydantoïne ;
• 1-aminohydantoïne ;
• acide hydantoïne-5-acétique ;
• 4-amino-1,2,4-triazolone-3,5-dione ;
• hexahydro-1,2,4,5-tétrazine-3,6-dione ;
• 5-méthyl-1,3,5-triazinon-2-one ;
• 1-méthyltétrahydropyrimidin-2-one ;
• 2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine ;
• urazole ;
• 4-méthylurazole ;
• acide orotique ;
• acide dihydroxyorotique ;
• 2,4,5-trihydroxypyrimidine ;
• 2-hydroxy-4-méthylpyrimidine ;
• 4,5-diamino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine ;
• acide 1,3-diméthylbarbiturique ;
• acide cyanurique ;
• 1-méthyl-hexahydropyrimidine-2,4-dione ;
• 1,3-diméthyl-3,4,5,6-tétrahydro-2-1H-pyrimidinone ;
• 5-(hydroxyméthyl-2,4-(1H,3H)-pyrimidinedione ;
• acide 2,4-dihydroxypyrimidine-5-carboxylique ;
• 6-azathymine ;
• 5-méthyl-1,3,5-triazinan-2-one ;
• acide N-carbamoylmaléamique ; et
• monohydrate d'alloxane.

Among the compounds of formula (II) which are particularly preferred according to the invention, mention may be made of:

• parabanic acid;
• 1,2-dihydro-3H-1,2,4-triazol-2-one;
• barbituric acid;
• uracil;
• 1-methyluracil;
• 3-methyluracil;
• 5-methyluracil;
• 1,3-dimethyluracil;
• 5-azauracil;
• 6-azauracil;
• 5-fluorouracil;
• 6-fluorouracil;
• 1,3-dimethyl-5-fluorouracil;
• 5-aminouracil;
• 6-aminouracil;
• 6-amino-1-methyluracil;
• 6-amino-1,3-dimethyluracil;
• 4-chlorouracil;
• 5-chlorouracil;
• 5,6-dihydrouracil;
• 5,6-dihydro-5-methyluracil;
• 2-imidazolidone;
• 1-methyl-2-imidazolidinone;
• 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone;
• 4,5-dihydroxy-imidazolidine-2-one;
• 1-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone;
• 1-(2-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone;
• 1-(3-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone;
• 4,5-dihydroxy-1,3-dimethyl-imidazolidin-2-one;
• 1,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone;
• 2-imidazolidone-4-carboxylic acid;
• 1-(2-aminoethyl)-2-imidazole;
• 4-methyl-1,2,4-triazoline-3,5-dione;
• 2,4-dihydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine;
• 1-amino-4,5-dihydro-1H-tetrazol-5-one;
• hydantoin;
• 1-methylhydantoin;
• 5-methylhydantoin;
• 5,5-dimethylhydantoin;
• 5-ethylhydantoin;
• 5-n-propylhydantoin;
• 5-ethyl-5-methylhydantoin;
• 5-hydroxy-5-methylhydantoin;
• 5-hydroxymethylhydantoin;
• 1-allylhydantoin;
• 1-aminohydantoin;
• hydantoin-5-acetic acid;
• 4-amino-1,2,4-triazolone-3,5-dione;
• hexahydro-1,2,4,5-tetrazine-3,6-dione;
• 5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinon-2-one;
• 1-methyltetrahydropyrimidin-2-one;
• 2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine;
• urazole;
• 4-methylurazole;
• orotic acid;
• dihydroxyorotic acid;
• 2,4,5-trihydroxypyrimidine;
• 2-hydroxy-4-methylpyrimidine;
• 4,5-diamino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine;
• 1,3-dimethylbarbituric acid;
• cyanuric acid;
• 1-methyl-hexahydropyrimidine-2,4-dione;
• 1,3-dimethyl-3,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-1H-pyrimidinone;
• 5-(hydroxymethyl-2,4-(1H,3H)-pyrimidinedione;
• 2,4-dihydroxypyrimidine-5-carboxylic acid;
• 6-azathymine;
• 5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinan-2-one;
• N-carbamoylmaleamic acid; and
• alloxan monohydrate.

Preferably, the (a) protein denaturing agent(s) are chosen from urea and hydroxyethylurea, and more preferably urea.

The (a) protein denaturing agent(s) may be present in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition A.

The (a) protein denaturing agent(s) may be present in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition A.

The amount of the protein denaturing agent(s) in composition A of the present invention may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

Composition B

Composition B of the present invention comprises:

(b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and

(c) at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and their mixtures.

(Shape)

Composition B used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O/W, W/O or multiple type (if the composition for the present invention comprises at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O/W) or (W/O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.

Composition B of the present invention is preferably in the form of an emulsion, and more preferably an H/W emulsion.

Composition B used for the present invention may be in any dosage form. For example, the compositions used for the present invention may be in the form of any treatment for hair in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel and the like.

(pH)

Composition B used for the present invention may have a pH of 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, and more preferably 5 or less, which is measured at 25°C.

Composition B used for the present invention may have a pH of 3 or higher, which is measured at 25°C.

Composition B used for the present invention may have a pH of 3 to 7, preferably 3 to 6, and more preferably 3 to 5, which is measured at 25°C.

The ingredients of Composition B are described in detail below.

(b) Glyoxylic acid and its derivatives

Composition B of the present invention comprises (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof.

Only one type of (b) compound may be used, or two or more different types of (b) compounds may be used in combination.

The (b) compound is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof. In other words, the (b) compound is selected from glyoxylic acid and its derivatives.

Examples of glyoxylic acid solvates include glyoxylic acid hydrates such as glyoxylic acid monohydrate.

Examples of salts of glyoxylic acid include alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of glyoxylic acid such as sodium or potassium glyoxylate, and magnesium or calcium glyoxylate.

Examples of glyoxylic acid esters include glyoxylic acid alkyl esters such as methyl glyoxylate and ethyl glyoxylate.

Examples of glyoxylic acid amides include N-glyoxyloylcarbocysteine and N-glyoxyloyl keratin amino acids.

It is better to use glyoxylic acid as (b) compound.

The amount of the (b) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (b) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention is less than 25% by weight, preferably less than 20% by weight, and more preferably less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

Thus, the amount of the (b) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention may be from 0.1% to less than 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to less than 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

In another embodiment, the amount of the (b) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention may be greater than 3% by weight, preferably greater than 5% by weight, and more preferably greater than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

Thus, in this embodiment, the amount of the (b) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention may be greater than 3% and less than 25% by weight, preferably greater than 5% and less than 20% by weight, and more preferably greater than 10% and less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

(c) Ketoacid

Composition B of the present invention comprises (c) at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from ketoacids, their salts and their mixtures. Two or more (c) compounds may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (c) compound or a combination of different types of (c) compounds may be used.

The ketoacids may be selected from α-ketoacids, β-ketoacids, γ-ketoacids and mixtures thereof.

α-Ketoacids may be compounds represented by the general formula (I):

R ¹ -C(=O)-COOH (I)

in which

R ¹ denotes a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, optionally substituted by OH, COOH or a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

Examples of α-keto acids include pyruvic acid.

β-Ketoacids can be represented by the general formula (II):

R ² -C(=O)-R ³ -COOH (II)

in which

R ² denotes a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, optionally substituted by OH, COOH or a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom; and

R ³ denotes a methylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

Examples of β-keto acids include acetoacetic acid.

γ-Ketoacids can be represented by the general formula (III):

R ² -C(=O)-R ⁴ -COOH (III)

in which

R ² denotes a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, optionally substituted by OH, COOH or a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom; and

R ⁴ denotes an ethylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.

Examples of γ-ketoacids include levulinic acid.

Ketoacid salts may be alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of ketoacid such as sodium or potassium salts of ketoacid, and magnesium or calcium salts of ketoacid.

It is preferable to use, as (c) compound(s), γ-ketoacid, and more preferably, levulinic acid and/or a salt thereof such as sodium levulinate.

The amount of the (c) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition B.

The amount of the (c) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention is 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, and more preferably 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition B.

Thus, the amount of the (c) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention may be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

In one embodiment, the amount of the (c) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition B.

Thus, in this embodiment, the amount of the (c) compound(s) in composition B according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the amount of the (c) compound(s) in composition B according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the (c) compound(s) are present in a lower amount than the (b) compounds in composition B. For example, the weight ratio between the (b) compound(s) (b) and the (c) compound(s) included in composition B may range from 1:1 to 10:1, preferably from 1.5:1 to 7:1, and more preferably from 2:1 to 5:1.

(Other optional ingredients)

- Water

Compositions A and B according to the present invention may comprise water, respectively.

Thus, if each of compositions A and B according to the present invention comprises water, compositions A and B according to the present invention are not anhydrous.

The amount of water in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

Furthermore, the amount of water in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

The amount of water in each of the compositions according to the present invention may be from 20% to 95% by weight, preferably from 30% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

- Alkaline agent

Each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may or may not comprise at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.

In one embodiment of the present invention, composition A does not comprise any alkaline agent, while composition B comprises at least one alkaline agent.

The alkali agent may be an inorganic alkali agent. It is preferable that the alkali agent be non-volatile. It is preferable that the inorganic alkali agent be selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As the inorganic alkali agent, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferable.

The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the organic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.

Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 hydroxyalkyl groups (C ₁ -C ₄ ). In particular, the alkanolamines may be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

Diamines can be described by the structure (B) below:
(B)

wherein W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, and R _a , R _b , R _c and R _d independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.

The amount of the alkaline agent(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

Furthermore, the amount of the alkaline agent(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

Thus, the amount of the alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

- Oil

Each of compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not comprise at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.

In one embodiment, composition B of the present invention comprises at least one oil. In one embodiment, composition A of the present invention does not comprise at least one oil.

Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or a fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste or a solid at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oil(s), those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

The oil can be selected from the group consisting of vegetable or animal oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, jojoba esters, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

Examples of monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols include ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C ₄ -C ₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils, esters and diesters of sugars of C ₆ -C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in C ₆ - C ₃₀ , and preferably in C ₁₂ - C ₂₂ . If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, including monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).

Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the silicone oils are chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

Also exemplary are mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of 5×10 ^-6 m ² /s or less at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics . The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

• les huiles Silbione^®des gammes 47 et 70 047 ou les huiles Mirasil^®vendues par Rhodia, par exemple l’huile 70 047 V 500 000 ;
• les huiles de la gamme Mirasil^®vendues par la société Rhodia ;
• les huiles de la gamme 200 de la société Dow Corning, telles que la DC200 avec une viscosité de 60 000 mm²/s ;
• les huiles Viscasil^®de General Electric et certaines huiles de la gamme SF (SF 96, SF 18) de General Electric.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, we can cite, without limitation, the following commercial products:

• Silbione ^® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil ^® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;
• oils from the Mirasil ^® range sold by the company Rhodia;
• Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm ² /s;
• General Electric Viscasil ^® oils and certain General Electric SF range oils (SF 96, SF 18).

Also of interest are polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from Rhodia.

• les huiles Silbione® de la gamme 70 641 de Rhodia ;
• les huiles des gammes Rhodorsil® 70 633 et 763 de Rhodia ;
• l’huile Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid de Dow Corning ;
• les silicones de la gamme PK de Bayer, comme le produit PK20 ;
• certaines huiles de la gamme SF de General Electric, comme SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 et SF 1265.

Among the silicones containing aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes, including polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names:

• Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia;
• oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;
• Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid;
• Bayer's PK range of silicones, such as PK20;
• some oils in General Electric's SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Organomodified liquid silicones may contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone from Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

• des alcanes inférieurs en C₆- C₁₆, linéaires ou ramifiés, facultativement cycliques. Les exemples pouvant être cités incluent hexane, undécane, dodécane, tridécane et isoparaffines, par exemple isohexadécane, isododécane et isodécane ; et
• les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés contenant plus de 16 atomes de carbone, tels que paraffines liquides, gelée de pétrole liquide, polydécènes et polyisobutènes hydrogénés tels que Parleam® et squalane.

Hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:

• lower C ₆ - C ₁₆ alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that may be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and
• linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or vaseline, naphthalenes and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and copolymers of decene and butene; and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the oil is chosen from polar oils, more preferably ester oils, and even more preferably monoester oils.

The amount of the oil(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

Furthermore, the amount of the oil(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

Thus, the amount of the oil(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

- Fatty alcohol

Each of compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not comprise at least one fatty alcohol. A single type of fatty alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

In one embodiment, composition B of the present invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol, but composition A does not comprise the fatty alcohol.

The term "fatty" herein means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ alkyl and C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ alkenyl groups. R may be substituted or not by at least one hydroxyl group.

Non-limiting examples of (h) fatty alcohols that may be cited include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

Fatty alcohol can represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol can coexist, as a mixture, in a commercial product.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).

It is preferred that the (h) fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

The amount of the fatty alcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

Furthermore, the amount of the fatty alcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

Thus, the amount of the fatty alcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

-Non-ionic surfactant

Each of compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not comprise at least one nonionic surfactant. A single type of nonionic surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.

The optional ingredient of the nonionic surfactant herein may be different from (a) protein denaturing agent.

In one embodiment, composition B of the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.

Non-ionic surfactants are compounds well known per se (see, for example, in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R. Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178). Thus, they may, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups being from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. Mention may also be made, in a non-limiting manner, of copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; sucrose fatty acid esters; polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters; polyethoxylated fatty acid mono or diesters of (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )alkylpolyglycosides of glycerol; N-(C ₆ -C ₂₄ )alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ )alkylamine oxides or N-(C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ )acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.

The non-ionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or their combination, and are preferably oxyethylene units.

Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be cited include:

monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylphenols,

saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C ₈ - C ₃₀ alcohols,

saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C ₈ - C ₃₀ amides,

esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ acids and of monoalkylene glycol or polyalkylene glycols,

monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C ₈ -C ₃₀ acids and of sorbitol,

saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated vegetable oils, and

ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide condensates, among others, alone or in mixture.

The surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50 and more preferably between 1 and 20.

According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the monooxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants may be chosen from monooxyethylenated fatty alcohol (ethylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol), monooxyethylenated fatty ester (ethylene glycol ester of fatty acid), and mixtures thereof.

Examples of monooxyalkylenated fatty esters that may be mentioned include glycol distearate.

According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (ether of polyethylene glycol and fatty alcohol), polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (ester of polyethylene glycol and fatty acid), and mixtures thereof.

Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols) that may be cited include adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Laureth-2 to Laureth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Ceteareth-2 to Ceteareth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Ceteth-2 to Ceteth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Steareth-2 to Steareth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Isosteareth-2 to Isosteareth-20); and mixtures thereof.

Examples of unsaturated polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols) that may be cited include adducts of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Oleth-2 to Oleth-20); and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants, more preferably polyoxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants, and even more preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols.

The amount of the nonionic surfactant(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.25% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

Furthermore, the amount of the nonionic surfactant(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

Thus, the amount of the nonionic surfactant(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

- Polyol

Each of compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not comprise at least one polyol. A single type of polyol may be used, or two or more different types of polyols may be used in combination.

In one embodiment, both compositions A and B comprise at least one polyol.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” must be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

The polyol suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic alkyl type, saturated or unsaturated, carrying at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

Preferably, the polyol is a compound of linear or branched alkyl type, preferably linear carrying at least two -OH functions, preferably 2 to 5 -OH functions, more preferably 2 to 4 -OH functions, and even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

Polyols which are advantageously suitable are those having in particular 2 to 8 carbon atoms or, for example, 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

The polyols may be chosen from linear or branched polyols, preferably linear polyols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms; we may cite in particular:

- diols such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol; and

- triols, such as glycerol (glycerin),

and their mixtures.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the polyol is selected from linear alkyl type polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

The polyol(s) may be present in each of compositions A and B of the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The polyol(s) may be present in each of compositions A and B of the present invention in an amount of 50% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 35% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the polyol(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be from 0.5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Monoalcohol

Each of compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not comprise at least one monoalcohol. A single type of monoalcohol may be used, or two or more different types of monoalcohols may be used in combination.

The optional ingredient of the monoalcohol herein may be different from (a) protein denaturing agent.

In one embodiment, composition B of the present invention comprises at least one monoalcohol. In one embodiment, composition A of the present invention does not comprise at least one monoalcohol.

The monoalcohol herein may be a water-soluble hydrophilic monoalcohol. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic" means that a substance is soluble in water at a concentration of 1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 ⁵ Pa).

The monoalcohol can be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, carrying only one hydroxyl function (OH).

In one embodiment, the monoalcohol may be an aliphatic monoalcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

The expression “aliphatic monoalcohol” here designates any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound, carrying only one hydroxyl (OH) function.

The aliphatic monoalcohol(s) may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monoalcohol may be chosen from linear aliphatic monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol and their mixtures.

The amount of the monoalcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.25% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

Furthermore, the amount of the monoalcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

Thus, the amount of the monoalcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.25% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

- Optional ingredients

Each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may also comprise at least one other optional ingredient, chosen in particular from: viscosity correctors, such as thickeners, such as polysaccharides; sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; antibacterial agents, such as benzoic acid; preservatives, such as phenoxyethanol; chelating agents; pearlescent agents and opacifiers; plasticizers or coalescers; fillers; emulsifiers; polymers, in particular conditioning polymers, such as cationic polymers; perfumes; silanes; crosslinking agents; and surfactants, including anionic and amphoteric surfactants. The composition may, of course, comprise several cosmetic ingredients appearing in the list above.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the amount of the polyol(s) in composition B according to the present invention may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.

The above optional ingredient(s) may be present in normal amounts which can be readily determined by a person skilled in the art and which may be, for each ingredient, between 0.01% and 80% by weight in each of compositions A and B. A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their amounts, so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions used for the present invention.

- Ammonia and thiol compound

It is preferable that the process according to the present invention does not include an application of ammonia or a thiol compound to the keratinous fibers. Thus, it is preferable that each of compositions A and B is free of ammonia or a thiol compound. The expression "free of ammonia or a thiol compound" means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of ammonia or a thiol compound.

In one embodiment, each of compositions A and B of the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of ammonia or a thiol compound, in particular no ammonia or a thiol compound.

Due to the use of a very small amount or absence of ammonia and/or thiol compound, the bad odor during use of the composition according to the present invention can be reduced or prevented.

The thiol compound herein refers to a compound that has at least one thiol group (-SH).

The thiol compound may be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol monothiolactate; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and its derivatives, in particular its C ₁ -C ₄ acyl derivatives such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; mono-thioglycerol and its derivatives, in particular its esters; cysteine and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine and cysteine alkyl esters; thioglycerin and its derivatives, in particular its s-alkyl derivatives, as well as its salts.

As the above salts, there may be mentioned, for example, ammonium salts; primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts; alkali metal salts; and alkaline earth metal salts. As the primary, secondary or tertiary amine, for example, there may be mentioned monoethanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triethanolamine, respectively.

Other examples of thiol reducing agent include, but are not limited to, sugar N-mercapto alkyl amides such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, β-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives; thiomalic acid; panthetine; N-(mercaptoalkyl)ω-hydroxyalkyl amides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 354 835 and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butyramides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 368 763; aminomercaptoalkyl amides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 432 000 and alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 514 282; 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate (2/3) and the mixture based on 2-hydroxymethylethyl thioglycolate (67/33) described in French patent application No. 2,679,448.

- Reducing agent and oxidizing agent

It is preferable that the process according to the present invention does not include an application of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent to the keratinous fibers. Thus, it is preferable that each of compositions A and B is free of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent. The expression "free of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent" means that a composition does not include a substantial amount of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent.

In one embodiment, each of compositions A and B of the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, in particular no reducing agent or oxidizing agent.

The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent is as described above.

The non-thiol reducing agent herein refers to a reducing agent without a thiol group. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones and hydrides. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, as well as metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfites and bisulfites and more preferably from sodium sulfites and bisulfites.

The oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricynaides, peroxygen salts, and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent may be selected from an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates.

{Optional step (iv)}

The process according to the present invention may or may not comprise an additional step (iv) of applying at least one treatment composition other than composition A and composition B to the keratinous fibers. The treatment composition will be described in detail later.

Application of the treatment composition can be done by any means, such as a brush and a comb.

The process according to the present invention may comprise step (iv) after application of both compositions A and B and before step (iii) where appropriate. Thus, the process according to the present invention may comprise step (iv) after both steps (i) and (ii) have been completed and before step (iii) where appropriate.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the process according to the present invention comprises step (i), step (ii), step (iv) and step (iii) in that order.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the process according to the present invention comprises step (ii), step (i), step (iv) and step (iii) in that order.

The process according to the present invention may comprise an optional step of rinsing the keratinous fibers with or without drying the keratinous fibers just before and/or after step (iv).

It may be possible, after application of the treatment composition, to leave the keratinous fibers as they are for a certain period of time; typically from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, and more preferably from 3 to 10 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow the composition to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.

The amount of the treatment composition applied to the keratinous fibers is not particularly limited, but generally ranges from 0.01 g to 0.5 g relative to 1 g of keratinous fibers.

The process according to the present invention may comprise step (iv) once, or may comprise step (iv) two or more times. In a preferred embodiment, the process according to the present invention may comprise step (iv) twice.

Where the process includes step (iv) two or more times, each step (iv) may include the application of the same or different treatment compositions.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the process comprises step (iv) twice, and each step (iv) includes applying a different composition to the keratinous fibers.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the process according to the present invention does not comprise a rinsing step after step (iv). In this embodiment, the treatment composition used in step (iv) may be a leave-in type cosmetic composition.

(Processing composition)

The form of the treatment compositions which can be used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O/W, W/O or multiple type (if the composition for the present invention comprises at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O/W) or (W/O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.

The treatment compositions which can be used for the present invention can have a pH of 3 to 8, preferably 3 to 7 at 25°C.

The formulations of the treatment compositions are not particularly limited, and compositions for keratinous fibers commonly used in the cosmetic field may be employed. In one embodiment, the treatment composition may be a hair care composition.

For example, the treatment composition may or may not include at least one silicone and/or at least one polyol.

Preferably, the treatment composition comprises at least one silicone modified by amino or aminosilicone.

The term "aminosilicone" herein refers to a silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group or at least one quaternary ammonium group.

The amount of the (a) silicone(s) in the treatment composition may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the treatment composition.

The polyol that can be included in the treatment composition is the same as the polyol explained above, and the same explanations can be applied.

Preferably, the treatment composition comprises at least one polyol chosen from diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, and caprylyl glycol and other polyols such as glycerol.

The amount of the polyol(s) in the treatment composition may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the treatment composition.

The treatment composition may comprise water. In this embodiment, the treatment composition is not anhydrous.

The amount of (b) water in the treatment composition may be from 40% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 60% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

[Kit]

The present invention also relates to a remodeling kit, preferably for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the combination of composition A and composition B of the present invention.

Thus, the present invention also relates to a remodeling kit, preferably for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:

1. au moins un agent dénaturant de protéine,

a composition A comprising:

1. at least one protein denaturing agent,

1. au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe consistant en acide glyoxylique, solvates d’acide glyoxylique, sels d’acide glyoxylique, esters d’acide glyoxylique, amides d’acide glyoxylique et leurs mélanges ; et
2. au moins un composé, différent du (b) composé, choisi dans le groupe consistant en cétoacides, leurs sels et leurs mélanges.

a composition B comprising:

1. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and
2. at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and their mixtures.

In the kit according to the present invention, composition A and composition B may be provided separately, for example, in different containers.

The kit according to the present invention may further comprise at least one heating element, such as an iron or a curling iron, which is capable of providing the keratinous fibers with a temperature greater than 50 ºC, preferably greater than 100 ºC, and more preferably greater than 150 ºC.

The heating element in the kit is not limited as long as it can heat the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50 ºC, preferably above 100 ºC, and more preferably above 150 ºC. This temperature may be below 250 °C, preferably below 240 °C, and more preferably below 230 °C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50 °C and below 250 °C, preferably above 100 °C and below 240 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C and below 230 °C.

Any conventional iron or curler, including any conventional heated iron or curler, may be used as the above iron or curler in the kit according to the present invention.

It is preferable that the heating element is a heating iron or a curling iron as explained in the section titled [Process] above. Also, the details of the composition used in the kit according to the present invention are explained in the section titled [Process] above.

[Use]

The present invention may relate to a use of the combination of composition A and composition B of the present invention, for reshaping, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair.

Thus, the present invention also relates to a use of a combination of a composition A and a composition B, for reshaping, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, in which

1. au moins un agent dénaturant de protéine, et

Composition A includes:

1. at least one protein denaturing agent, and

1. au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe consistant en acide glyoxylique, solvates d’acide glyoxylique, sels d’acide glyoxylique, esters d’acide glyoxylique, amides d’acide glyoxylique et leurs mélanges ; et
2. au moins un composé, différent du (b) composé, choisi dans le groupe consistant en cétoacides, leurs sels et leurs mélanges.

Composition B includes:

1. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and
2. at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and their mixtures.

In particular, the present invention relates to a use of composition A as a pre-treatment agent and/or post-treatment agent for reshaping, preferably smoothing, keratinous fibers with composition B, in which:

1. au moins un agent dénaturant de protéine, et

Composition A includes:

1. at least one protein denaturing agent, and

1. au moins un composé choisi dans le groupe consistant en acide glyoxylique, solvates d’acide glyoxylique, sels d’acide glyoxylique, esters d’acide glyoxylique, amides d’acide glyoxylique et leurs mélanges ; et
2. au moins un composé, différent du (b) composé, choisi dans le groupe consistant en cétoacides, leurs sels et leurs mélanges.

Composition B includes:

1. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and
2. at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and their mixtures.

The use of the present invention may be carried out by heating the keratinous fiber, preferably the hair. In the use of the present invention, the heating may be provided after applying compositions A and B to the keratinous fiber.

Heating is not limited as long as it can heat the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50 ºC, preferably above 100 ºC and more preferably above 150 ºC. This temperature may be below 250 °C, preferably below 240 °C, and more preferably below 230 °C. Thus, this temperature may be above 50 °C and below 250 °C, preferably above 100 °C and below 240 °C, and more preferably above 150 °C and below 230 °C.

Details of the compositions for use according to the present invention are explained in the section entitled [Process] above.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[Preparation]

Compositions A and Compositions B were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Tables 1 and 2. The numerical values for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as raw materials.

Composition A Urea 5 Propylene glycol 10 Glycerin 20 Glycine 1 Conservatives 1.2 pH corrector qsp pH 7.8 Water qs 100

Composition B Isopropyl myristate 8 Cetearyl alcohol 9.5 Steareth-20 4 Pentylene glycol 5 Steareth-2 4 Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (30% by weight as AM) (1) 5 Cetyl esters 1 Glyoxylic acid (50% by weight as AM) (2) 14 Levulinic acid (60% by weight as AM) (3) 4 Ethanol 0.25 Viscosity corrector 0.5 pH corrector qsp pH 3.0 Water qsp 100

(1) sold by BASF under the name DEHYQUART F 30 (containing 30% active ingredient)

(2) sold by WEYLCHEM under the name GLYOXO-HIGH PURE 50 (containing 50% active ingredient)

(3) sold by the company DR STRAETMANS (EVONIK) under the name DERMOSOFT 700 B (containing 60% active ingredient)

Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 Example 1

1 g of 27 cm long Brazilian curly hair (Type IV) was washed with 0.5 g of a regular shampoo composition. The formulation of the regular shampoo composition is shown in Table 3 below. The numerical values for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as raw materials. The hair strand was rinsed thoroughly with tap water.

Regular shampoo Sodium laureth sulfate 15 Coco-Betaine 9 Conservatives 0.7 Polyquaternium-10 0.3 Water qsp 100 pH corrector qsp pH 5.5 Viscosity corrector 2

Composition A was applied in an amount of 0.2 g to the strand of wet hair as a pretreatment (step (i)).

Then, without rinsing, composition B was applied in an amount of 0.6 g to the lock of hair (Step (ii)).

The hair strand was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C). The hair strand was then rinsed thoroughly with tap water and then blow-dried until the hair strand was dry.

The hair strand was subjected to 3-pass straightening with a hair straightener (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180 C for 4 seconds/pass.

Comparative Example 1

The hair strand, which was the same as that used in Example 1, was washed with 0.5 g of an ordinary shampoo according to Example 1. The formulation of the ordinary shampoo was the same as that used in Example 1. Then, no treatment was applied to the hair strand according to Comparative Example 1. Thus, none of steps (i) to (iii) were conducted in this process.

Comparative Example 2

A sample according to Comparative Example 2 was prepared by shampooing with 0.5 g of an ordinary shampoo according to Example 1, and then the hair strand was dried with a hair dryer until the hair strand was dry. Then, the hair strand was subjected to straightening without any treatment with the hair straightener. The straightening process was the same as that of Example 1. Thus, only step (iii) was conducted in this process.

Comparative Example 3

A sample according to Comparative Example 3 was prepared in the same manner as Example 1, but no pretreatment with composition A was carried out. Thus, step (i) of the present invention was not carried out in this process.

Example 2

A sample according to Example 2 was prepared in the same manner as Example 1, but a strand of Chinese curly hair (type III) was used instead of the strand of Brazilian curly hair (type IV).

Example 3

Example 2 was repeated, but after rinsing Composition B with tap water, 0.25 g of a hair care composition Y was applied to the hair strand. The hair strand was left for 5 minutes at room temperature (25°C) and then rinsed thoroughly with tap water. Then, 0.03 g of a hair care composition Z was applied to the hair strand. The hair strand was blow-dried until the hair strand was dry, and was subjected to straightening in the same manner as in Example 1.

Thus, the process according to Example 3 included an additional step (iv).

The formulations of hair care compositions Y and Z are shown in Tables 4 and 5 below, respectively. The numerical values for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on “% by weight” as raw materials.

Hair care composition Y Cetearyl alcohol 6 Cetyl esters 1.5 Behentrimonium chloride (80% by weight AM) 3 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-5 (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10
(15% by weight of amodimethicone AM) (4) 15 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-6 (and)
Cetrimonium chloride (57% by weight of amodimethicone AM) (5) 4.5 Conservatives 0.5 Glycerin 2 Water qsp 100 pH 4.0

(1) sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1 (containing 15% active ingredient).

(2) sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM 4000 E (containing 57% active ingredient).

Hair care composition Z Water qsp 100 pH corrector qsp pH 5.0 Butylene glycol 4 Viscosity corrector 0.5 PEG-240/HDI Bis-decyltetradeceth-20 Ether Copolymer
(30% by weight AM) (6) 3 Conservative 0.7 Undecane (and) Tridecane 1 Aminopropyl Dimethicone
(55% by weight of AM) (7) 8.83 Isononyl isononanoate 3

(1) sold by the company ADEKA under the name ADEKANOL GT-730 (containing 30% active ingredient).

(2) sold by SHIN ETSU company under the name X-22-9686 (containing 55% active ingredient).

Comparative Example 4

A sample according to Comparative Example 4 was prepared in the same manner as Example 2, but no pretreatment with composition A was carried out. Thus, step (i) was not carried out in this process.

The processes according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 are summarized in Table 4. As explained above, in these examples, step (i), (ii), (iv) and (iii) were carried out in that order, where applicable.

Lock of hair Step (i) Step (ii) Step (iv) Step (iii) Ex. 1 Lock of hair
Brazilian curls HAS B - Done Ex. Comp. 1 - - - - Ex. Comp. 2 - - - Done Ex. Comp. 3 - B - Done Ex. 2 Lock of hair
Chinese curls HAS B - Done Ex. 3 HAS B Done Done Ex. Comp. 4 - B - Done

Examples 4 and 5 Example 4

1 g of 27 cm long Chinese curly hair (Type III) was washed with 0.5 g of ordinary shampoo. The formulation of the ordinary shampoo was the same as that used in Example 1.

Composition B was applied in an amount of 0.6 g to the wet hair strand as a pretreatment (Step (ii)).

The hair strand was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C), then rinsed thoroughly with tap water.

Composition A was applied in an amount of 0.2 g to the hair strand (Step (i)) as a post-treatment. The hair strand was then rinsed thoroughly with tap water and then dried with a hair dryer until the hair strand was dry.

The hair strand was subjected to 3-pass straightening with a hair straightener (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180 C for 4 seconds/pass.

Example 5

Example 4 was repeated, but after rinsing Composition A with tap water, 0.25 g of a hair care composition Y was applied to the hair strand. The hair strand was left for 5 minutes at room temperature (25°C) and then rinsed thoroughly with tap water. Next, 0.03 g of a hair care composition Z was applied to the hair strand. The hair strand was then blow-dried until dry. The formulations of hair care compositions Y and Z are the same as those used in Example 2.

Thus, the process according to Example 5 included an additional step (iv).

The hair strand was subjected to 3-pass straightening with a hair straightener (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180 C for 4 seconds/pass.

The processes according to Examples 4 and 5 are summarized in Table 7. As explained above, in these examples, steps (ii), (i), (iv) and (iii) were carried out in that order, where applicable.

Lock of hair Step (ii) Step (i) Step (iv) Step (iii) Ex. 4 Curly Chinese
Lock of hair B HAS - Done Ex. 5 B HAS Done Done

[Assessment]

(Smoothing effect)

After each of the treated hair strands was kept at room temperature (25°C) for three hours, the smoothing level of the treated hair strand was visually evaluated based on three aspects of “smoothing performance”, “frizz level” and “volume” under the following criteria.

5: Very good

4: Good

3: Passable

2: Bad

1: Very bad

(Sustainability)

The durability of the effects on the hair strand according to Examples 2 to 4 and Comparative Example 4, which used Chinese curly hair (Type III), was evaluated. In particular, the durability with respect to the “smoothing effect” and “ease of combing” was evaluated with the hair strand after 1 shampoo with a routine shampoo composition. The formulation of the routine shampoo composition is shown in Table 8 below. The hair strand was rinsed thoroughly with tap water and dried with a hair dryer (for approximately 90 seconds until dry) after shampooing.

The smoothing effect was measured in the same way as above and the evaluation was made according to the following criteria.

5: Excellent

4: Very good

3: Good

2: Passable

1: Bad

The ease of combing on the treated hair strand was measured by combing the strand by a trained person and the resistance to combing was assessed according to the following criteria.

4: Combing can be done without any feeling of friction.

3: Combing can be done with almost no feeling of friction

2: Combing is easy with low friction, which is acceptable

Shampoo routine C ₁₄ -C ₁₆ Sodium Olefin Sulfonate (38% by weight as AM) 18.4 Cocamidopropyl betaine
(38% by weight in AM) 16.8 Laureth-5 carboxylic acid 2.2 Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
(60% by weight in AM) 1.5 Polyquaternium-67 0.15 Conservative 0.61 pH corrector qs pH 5.3 Viscosity corrector 1.15

The results are shown in Table 9 below.

Smoothing effect Sustainability Smoothing effect Easy to comb Ex. 1 5 n.m. n.m. Ex. Comp. 1 1 n.m. n.m. Ex. Comp. 2 2 n.m. n.m. Ex. Comp. 3 3 n.m. n.m. Ex. 2 4 4 2 Ex. 3 5 4 4 Ex. 4 4 4 3 Ex. 5 5 3 4 Ex. Comp. 4 3 2 2

n.m.: unmeasured

It is clear that the processes according to the examples, which include steps (i) and (ii), optionally (iii), provided both an improved smoothing effect and durability compared to the processes according to comparative examples, which do not include all steps (i) and (ii), optionally (iii). Furthermore, the hair strands treated with the processes according to the examples were able to exhibit equal or improved sensory properties regarding ease of combing after shampooing, compared to those treated with the processes according to the comparative examples.

Claims (10)

Process of remodeling, preferably of smoothing keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising the steps of:
(i) application of a composition A to the keratinous fibers, in which the composition A comprises:
(a) at least one protein denaturing agent,
(ii) application of a composition B to the keratinous fibers, wherein the composition B comprises:
(b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and
(c) at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and their mixtures, and
(iii) optionally heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature above 50 ºC, preferably above 100 ºC, and more preferably above 150 ºC, once both steps (i) and (ii) have been completed,
in which the process comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i). The process of claim 1, wherein the (a) protein denaturing agent is selected from urea and its derivatives. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the (c) compound is selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the pH of composition B is 7 or less, preferably 6 or less, and more preferably 5 or less. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the process does not include applying ammonia or a thiol compound to the keratinous fibres. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the process does not include the application of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent to the keratinous fibers. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein composition A further comprises at least one polyol. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which composition A has a pH of 4 to 11, preferably 5 to 10, and more preferably 6 to 9. Remodeling kit, preferably for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:
a composition A comprising:
(a) at least one protein denaturing agent, and
a composition B comprising:
(b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and
(c) at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and their mixtures. Use of a combination of a composition A and a composition B, for reshaping, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, wherein
Composition A includes:
(a) at least one protein denaturing agent, and
Composition B includes:
(b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and
(c) at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and their mixtures.