FR3148144A1 - BIPHASIC COMPOSITION AND ITS PROCESSES - Google Patents

Abstract

BIPHASIC COMPOSITION AND METHODS THEREOF The present disclosure relates to a biphasic composition for removing make-up, cleansing and caring for a keratinous layer, comprising: (i) an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid; (c) at least one lightening active agent; (d) at least one anti-dull complexion active agent; and (e) water; and (ii) an oily phase comprising: (f) at least one emollient and g) optionally at least one antioxidant. Figure for abstract: none

Description

BIPHASIC COMPOSITION AND ITS PROCESSES FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present disclosure relates to the field of cosmetic and personal care products. The present disclosure relates in particular to a two-phase cleansing composition for removing make-up, cleaning or caring for a keratinous layer.

CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

Generally, people are passionately inclined to invest long hours to adorn themselves with heavy and waterproof makeup in order to look flawless. But on the other hand, people are reluctant to invest a minimum amount of time to remove their makeup at the end of the day. However, the basis of achieving flawless skin is to maintain clean and unclogged skin. Therefore, consumers are constantly looking for cosmetic products that can remove makeup effectively and quickly.

Cleansers are commonly used products to cleanse the skin. While these traditional facial cleansers are sufficient to remove excess oil and dirt, they are not effective in removing makeup, especially waterproof makeup. In addition, these cleansers are harsh on sensitive and acne-prone skin. An alternative to traditional cleansers is biphasic cleansing compositions, also known as micellar water in the consumer market.

Micellar water products primarily contain water with an optimized ratio of exfoliating agents to remove all types of waterproof makeup and dirt. Such products in the consumer market also claim to offer additional benefits such as hydrated and glowing skin, after using these products. However, so-called multi-purpose micellar water products tend to cause skin irritation due to the presence of high amounts of exfoliating agents and leave the skin sticky due to the presence of undesirable amounts of oil phase ingredients.

Therefore, there is a need to develop biphasic compositions with a desired amount of water phase and oil phase ingredients in order to achieve effective makeup removal and also to ensure nourished and brighter skin after use, while being suitable for all skin types.

In one aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a biphasic composition comprising: an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy)acid; (c) at least one lightening active ingredient; (d) at least one anti-dull complexion active ingredient; and (e) water; and an oily phase comprising: (f) at least one emollient; and (g) optionally at least one antioxidant.

In another aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a method of removing make-up, cleansing and/or caring for the skin, lips and/or eyes, body or hair, characterized in that the cleansing composition as described herein is applied to the skin, lips and/or eyes, or hair.

In another aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a use of the composition as described herein for removing makeup, cleansing and/or caring for a keratinous layer.

These and other features, aspects and advantages of the subject matter herein will be better understood by reference to the following description and the appended claims. This summary is provided to present a selection of concepts in a simplified form. This summary is not intended to identify key features or essential characteristics of the claimed subject matter, nor is it to be used to limit the scope of the claimed subject matter.

The following drawings are part of this specification and are included to further illustrate aspects of the present disclosure. The disclosure may be better understood by reference to the drawings in combination with the detailed description of the specific embodiments presented herein.

[Fig 1] [Fig 1] illustrates the effect of biphasic compositions on skin lightening parameters (A) skin lightening (dL); (B) saturation change (dC); (C) hue change (dH); (D) color change (dE94), in accordance with one embodiment of the present disclosure.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Those skilled in the art will be aware that this disclosure is subject to variations and modifications other than those specifically described. It is understood that this disclosure includes all such variations and modifications. The disclosure also includes all such steps, features, compositions and compounds designated or indicated in this specification, individually or collectively, and any combination of one or more of such steps or features.

Definitions

For convenience, before describing this disclosure in more detail, certain terms used in the specification and examples are defined herein. These definitions should be read in light of the remainder of the disclosure and understood as by a person skilled in the art. The terms used herein have the meanings recognized and known to those skilled in the art, however, for convenience and completeness, particular terms and their meanings are set forth below.

The articles "un", "une", "la", "le" and "les" are used to denote one or more than one (i.e. at least one) grammatical object of the article.

The terms “include” and “comprising” are used in an inclusive and open sense, meaning that additional elements may be included. It is not intended to be interpreted as “consisting solely of”.

The term “at least one” is used to mean one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

Throughout this specification, unless the context otherwise requires, the term “include”, and variations such as “comprises” and “comprising”, shall be construed as implying the inclusion of any element or step or group of elements or steps set forth, but not the exclusion of any other element or step or group of elements or steps.

The term "including" is used to mean "including, but not limited to." "including" and "including, but not limited to" are used interchangeably.

The term “INCI” is an abbreviation for the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the Personal Care Products Council’s International Nomenclature Committee to identify ingredients in cosmetic or personal care products.

The term “oil” as used herein refers to compounds and/or mixtures of compounds that are insoluble in water and have a liquid appearance at a temperature of 25°C.

The term "biphasic" is used to refer to a composition comprising a separate aqueous phase and an oil phase. In accordance with the present disclosure, the two phases are separated with the aqueous phase forming the bottom or lower phase and the oil phase forming the top or upper phase. The two phases are not emulsified into each other upon standing. However, the biphasic composition upon mixing, such as stirring, transforms into a cloudy monophasic composition, which is then applied to a keratinous layer such as skin. The terms "biphasic" and "two-phase" are used interchangeably in the present disclosure. The biphasic composition is capable of transforming into a monophasic composition and the monophasic composition is capable of transforming into a biphasic composition.

The term “free of silicone and alcohol” or “free of silicones and alcohols” as used herein means that the cleaning composition as disclosed herein is essentially free of any alcohol and/or silicone-containing ingredients. In particular, “essentially free of any alcohol and/or silicone-containing ingredients” means that the alcohol and/or silicone-containing ingredients may be present in the composition in an amount of less than 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight. In one embodiment, the composition is completely free of silicone. In another embodiment, the composition is free of alcohol. In yet another embodiment, the composition is completely free of silicone and alcohol.

All percentages, parts and ratios are based on the total weight of the formulations in this disclosure unless otherwise specified. Ratios, concentrations, amounts and other numerical data may be presented herein in range format. It is to be understood that this range format is used for convenience and brevity only and is to be construed loosely to include not only the numerical values explicitly cited as the limits of the range, but also to include all individual numerical values or subranges encompassed within that range as if each numerical value and subrange were explicitly cited. For example, a percentage range of approximately 0.01% to 5.5% should be interpreted to include not only the explicitly cited limits of approximately 0.01% to approximately 5%, but also subranges, such as 2% to 3%, 3% to 4%, and so on, as well as individual quantities, including fractional quantities, within the specified ranges, such as 2.84% and 3%, for example.

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by a person skilled in the art to which this disclosure pertains. Although any methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein may be used in the practice or testing of the disclosure, the preferred methods and materials are now described. All publications referred to herein are incorporated herein by reference.

This disclosure is not to be limited in scope by the specific embodiments described herein, which are intended for exemplary purposes only. Functionally equivalent products, compositions, and methods are clearly within the scope of the disclosure as described herein.

Embodiments herein provide a biphasic composition, preferably an alcohol- and silicone-free biphasic composition for removing makeup, cleansing and/or caring for a keratinous layer. Disclosed embodiments include a biphasic composition, a method for removing makeup, cleansing and/or caring for the skin, lips and/or eyes, body or hair, and use of the composition for removing makeup, cleansing and/or caring for a keratinous layer. In various embodiments herein, the composition is a biphasic cleansing composition having improved cosmetic properties, which addresses the drawbacks of existing cleansing products. In general, biphasic cleansing products can be harsh and not suitable for acne-prone skin due to the presence of higher amounts of alpha hydroxy acids. Also, these biphasic cleansers may not be stable enough to maintain their phase characteristics for an extended period of time and are therefore deficient in providing additional skin care benefits. Therefore, the composition according to the embodiments herein is an alcohol- and silicone-free biphasic composition that is capable of transforming into a monophasic composition, stable across temperatures, provides effective makeup removal, gentle exfoliation and, therefore, mild and suitable for sensitive skin types such as acne-prone skin. In addition, the composition provides enhanced skin care benefits such as an instant and gradual glow to the skin; an even skin tone with a reduction in acne scars and pigment spots; and smooth and hydrated skin after regular use of the composition. The embodiments herein further include a method for preparing the biphasic composition.

Composition

Embodiments herein provide the composition for removing makeup, cleansing and caring for a keratinous layer. The composition, according to embodiments herein, is an alcohol- and silicone-free, biphasic and leave-in composition. In addition, the composition, according to embodiments herein, provides enhanced benefits to the keratinous layer, such as instant and gradual lightening, an even complexion, a complexion enhancement, radiance, a smooth and non-sticky skin feeling after use of the composition. In one embodiment, the composition comprises an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy)acid; (c) at least one lightening active ingredient; (d) at least one anti-dull complexion active ingredient; and (e) water; an oily phase comprising: (f) at least one emollient; and (g) optionally at least one antioxidant.

In other embodiments, the aqueous phase further includes at least one pH adjuster, at least one sebum regulating active, at least one buffer, at least one surfactant, at least one active compound, at least one preservative, or mixtures thereof.

In another embodiment, there is provided a composition comprising: an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (c) at least one lightening active in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (d) at least one anti-dull complexion active in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (e) water in an amount ranging from 70% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; an oily phase comprising: (f) at least one emollient in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (g) optionally at least one antioxidant in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In yet another embodiment, there is provided a composition comprising: an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 1.2 to 2.5% by weight; (c) at least one lightening active in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 2.5% by weight; (d) at least one anti-dull complexion active agent in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 0.8% by weight; and (e) the water is in an amount ranging from 70% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 75 to 85% by weight, more preferably from 80 to 85% by weight; an oily phase comprising: (f) at least one emollient in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 13% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight; and (g) optionally at least one antioxidant in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.4 to 0.9% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 0.8% by weight.

According to a preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase and the oily phase are in a weight ratio range of 90:10 to 93:7, preferably in a ratio range of 91:9 to 93:7, more preferably in a ratio of 92:8.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to embodiments herein comprises an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 1.2 to 2.5% by weight; (c) at least one lightening active in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 2.5% by weight; (d) at least one anti-dull complexion active agent in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 0.8% by weight; and (e) the water is in an amount ranging from 70% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 75 to 85% by weight, more preferably from 80 to 85% by weight.

Alpha hydroxy acid

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the embodiments herein includes at least one alpha hydroxy acid, which functions as a mild scrubbing active and exfoliates the skin, aiding in the removal of dead skin cells and also promoting new skin cell generation. The alpha hydroxy acid may be a single type of alpha hydroxy acid, but two or more different types of alpha hydroxy acids may also be used in combination. The alpha hydroxy acid is part of the aqueous phase of the present disclosure. Therefore, the aqueous phase of the present disclosure comprises at least one alpha hydroxy acid.

The term “alpha hydroxy acid,” “α-hydroxy acid,” or “AHA,” is used herein to refer to a carboxylic acid that has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.

Alpha hydroxy acid can be represented by the following chemical formula:

(R _a )(R _b )C(OH)COOH

where _ra and R _b are H, F, Cl, Br, I, an alkyl, aralkyl or aryl group of saturated or unsaturated form, isomeric or non-isomeric, linear or branched or cyclic, having 1 to 25 carbon atoms, and furthermore _Ra and R _b may carry OH, CHO, COOH and an alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms.

The hydrogen atom attached to the carbon atom may be substituted by F, Cl, Br, I or a lower alkyl, aralkyl, aryl or alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms. The alpha hydroxy acid may be present as a free acid or lactone, or as a partial salt with an organic base or an inorganic alkali. Alpha hydroxy acids may exist as stereoisomers such as the D, L, DL and meso forms.

When R _a and R _b are alkyl, they may independently be in any of the groups C ₁ -C ₅ , C ₆ -C ₁₀ , C ₁₁ -C ₁₅ , C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ , C ₂₁ -C ₂₅ and C ₂₆ -C ₂₉ . The compounds in the above chemical formula therefore include all possible combinations of R _a and R _b . Included in the above are a subgenus of compounds having R _a and R _b independently selected from C ₁ -C ₁₂ .

Typical alkyl, aralkyl, aryl, and alkoxyl groups for R _{a and} R _b include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, pentyl, octyl, lauryl, stearyl, benzyl, phenyl, methoxyl, and ethoxyl.

The alpha hydroxy acids of the first group can be subdivided into:

(1) alkyl alpha hydroxy acids,

(2) aralkyl and aryl alpha hydroxy acids,

(3) poly(hydroxy)alpha hydroxy acids,

(4) alpha hydroxy polycarboxylic acids, and

(5) various alpha hydroxy acids.

The following are representative alpha hydroxy acids in each subgroup.

(1) Alkyl alpha hydroxy acids: 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (glycolic acid), 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (lactic acid), 2-methyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (methyl lactic acid), 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid (alpha hydroxyarachidonic acid), 2-hydroxytetraeicosanoic acid (cerebronic acid), 2-hydroxytetraeicosenoic acid (alpha hydroxynervonic acid) and 2,4-dihydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutanoic acid (pantoic acid)

(2) Aralkyl and aryl alpha hydroxy acids: 2-phenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (mandelic acid); 2,2-diphenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (benzilic acid), 3-phenyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (phenyllactic acid), 2-phenyl 2-methyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (atrolactic acid) and 4-hydroxymandelic acid.

(3) Polyhydroxy alpha hydroxy acids: 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid (glyceric acid); 2,3,4-trihydroxybutanoic acid (isomers; erythronic acid, threonic acid); 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxypentanoic acid (isomers; ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid, lyxonic acid); 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexanoic acid (isomers; allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid, talonic acid); 2,3,4,5,6,7-hexahydroxyheptanoic acid (isomers; glucoheptonic acid, galactoheptonic acid, mannoheptonic acid, etc.)

(4) Alpha hydroxy polycarboxylic acids: 2-hydroxypropane-1,3-dioic acid (tartronic acid); 2-hydroxybutane-1,4-dioic acid (malic acid); 2-hydroxy-2-methylbutane-1,4-dioic acid (citramalic acid); 2,3-dihydroxybutane-1,4-dioic acid (tartaric acid); 2,3,4-trihydroxypentane-1,5-dioic acid (isomers; ribaric acid, arabic acid, xylaric acid, lyxaric acid); 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxyhexane-1,6-dioic acid (isomers; glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, allaric acid, altraric acid, gularic acid, idaric acid, talaric acid).

(5) Various alpha-hydroxy acids: glyceruronic acid, erythruronic acid, threonic acid; 2,3,4-trihydroxypentanuronic acids (isomers; riburonic acid, arabinuronic acid, xyluronic acid, lyxuronic acid); 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxyhexanuric acid (isomers; alluronic acid, altruronic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, guluronic acid, iduronic acid, galacturonic acid, taluronic acid); 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyheptanuronic acid (isomers; alloheptanuronic acid, altroheptanuronic acid, glucoheptanuronic acid, mannoheptanuronic acid, guloheptanuronic acid, idoheptanuronic acid, galactoheptanuronic acid, taloheptanuronic acid).

According to a preferred embodiment, the alpha hydroxy acid is an alkyl alpha hydroxy acid or an aralkyl hydroxy acid and is preferentially chosen from glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid or their mixtures.

The amount of alpha hydroxy acid in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The alpha hydroxy acid, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the alpha hydroxy acid is a combination of lactic acid and glycolic acid, wherein the lactic acid may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight; and the glycolic acid is in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.7 to 1.5% by weight.

Poly(hydroxy)acid

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the embodiments herein includes at least one poly(hydroxy) acid, which functions as a mild exfoliating active similar to AHA but has a milder action compared to AHA. Poly(hydroxy) acids provide gentle exfoliation and even out skin texture. The poly(hydroxy) acid may be a single type of poly(hydroxy) acid, but two or more different types of poly(hydroxy) acids may also be used in combination. The poly(hydroxy) acid is part of the aqueous phase of the present disclosure. The aqueous phase of the present disclosure includes at least one poly(hydroxy) acid. Therefore, the poly(hydroxy) acid forms an aqueous layer at rest in the composition.

The term “poly(hydroxy) acid” or “PHA” is used herein to refer to a carboxylic acid with two or more hydroxyl groups attached to carbon atoms or an alicyclic chain. It is essential that at least one hydroxyl group be attached to the alpha carbon atom. Examples of poly(hydroxy) acids include gluconolactone, galactonic acid, lactobionic acid, or mixtures thereof. Additionally, the attachment of a sugar molecule to the PHA structure results in a polysaccharide known as a bionic acid (PHBA), these molecules are called poly(hydroxy) bionic acids or PHBAs. Lactobionic acid is an example of a PHBA.

According to a preferred embodiment, the poly(hydroxy)acid is chosen from gluconolactone, galactonic acid, lactobionic acid or their mixtures.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the poly(hydroxy)acid is gluconolactone.

The amount of alpha hydroxy acid in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The poly(hydroxy) acid, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 1.2 to 2.5% by weight.

Lightening active ingredient

The aqueous phase of the composition, according to embodiments herein, includes one or more lightening actives, which are used to regulate excess sebum, reduce enlarged pores, promote nourished skin and thereby provide enhanced lightening effects for the skin. Examples of lightening actives include, but are not limited to, niacinamide, arbutin, kojic acid, vitamin C, azelaic acid, retinoids, hydroquinone, linoleic acid or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the lightening active ingredient is niacinamide.

The amount of lightening active in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The lightening active, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 2.5% by weight.

Anti-dull complexion active ingredient

The aqueous phase of the composition, according to embodiments herein, includes one or more anti-dullness actives, which are used to enhance the appearance of dull, dry or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness. Examples of anti-dullness actives include, but are not limited to, caffeine, polyglutamic acid, or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the anti-dull complexion active ingredient is caffeine.

The amount of anti-dull complexion active agent in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The anti-dull complexion active agent, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 0.8% by weight.

Water

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the embodiments herein comprises water, which is a solvent for dissolving the ingredients of the aqueous phase. The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and/or natural spring water or mineral water. The aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted spring water, i.e. water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of spring water.

According to a preferred embodiment, the water is sterile demineralized water.

The amount of water in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. Water, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 70% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 75 to 85% by weight, more preferably from 80 to 85% by weight.

Oily phase

The composition according to embodiments herein comprises an oily phase comprising: (a) at least one emollient in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 13% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight; and (b) optionally at least one antioxidant in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.4 to 0.9% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 0.8% by weight.

Emollient

The composition, according to embodiments herein, includes one or more emollients. The emollients function as occlusive agents to retain moisture in the skin and therefore leave the skin feeling soft, smooth and hydrated. The emollients according to embodiments herein may be a single type of oil but two or more different types of oils may also be used in combination.

Examples of emollients include, but are not limited to, hydrocarbon oil, vegetable oil, mineral oil, oils such as fatty acid esters, or mixtures thereof.

Hydrocarbon oil

Hydrocarbon oil may form the oil phase of the composition according to the present disclosure.

The term "hydrocarbon" herein means a compound formed by carbon and hydrogen atoms, and does not include any heteroatoms such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms.

The hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from aliphatic hydrocarbon oils, alicyclic hydrocarbon oils and aromatic hydrocarbon oils, preferably aliphatic hydrocarbon oils, and more preferably aliphatic and saturated hydrocarbon oils.

Hydrocarbon oil can be volatile or non-volatile. It is preferable for hydrocarbon oil to be volatile. In other words, it is preferable for hydrocarbon oil to be a volatile hydrocarbon oil.

For the purposes of the present disclosure, the expression "volatile oil" designates an oil which is capable of evaporating upon contact with a keratinous layer in less than one hour, at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile oil may be a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, having in particular a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^-3 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg).

According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil has a flash point greater than 65°C, and more preferably greater than 80°C.

The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably volatile C ₈ -C ₁₆ branched hydrocarbon oils, and more preferably volatile C ₈ -C ₁₆ branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins). It may be even more preferable that the hydrocarbon oil is selected from the group consisting of isohexadecane, isodecane, isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane) and mixtures thereof.

In another case, hydrocarbon oil can also be a linear or branched hydrocarbon containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and squalene.

Furthermore, the hydrocarbon oil may also be a linear volatile alkane containing 7 to 17 carbon atoms, particularly 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms. Examples include, but are not limited to, n-nonadecane, n-decane, n-undecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from isohexadecane, isododecane, undecane, tridecane, liquid paraffin or mixtures thereof.

Fatty acid esters

Oils, such as fatty acid esters, may form the oil phase of the composition according to the present disclosure.

Examples of oils that are fatty acid esters include, but are not limited to, synthetic fatty acid esters such as oils having the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid comprising 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms with R ₁ + R ₂ > 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isonyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, isostearyl palmitate, isoneonate, cetearyl, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyl and dodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate and pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

According to a preferred embodiment, the emollient is chosen from isohexadecane, isopropyl myristate, isododecane, liquid paraffin, esters such as isononyl isonanoate, erythrityl tetraethylanoate, cetyl hexanoate, isostearyl palmitate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, cetearyl isononate, undecane, tridecane or mixtures thereof.

In a more preferred embodiment, the emollient is a combination of isododecane, isohexadecane and isopropyl myristate.

The amount of emollient in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The emollient, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 13%, more preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight.

Antioxidant

The oil phase of the composition, according to embodiments herein, includes one or more antioxidants, which are used to nourish the skin and also, protect the skin from oxidative damage. Examples of antioxidants include, but are not limited to, vitamin E, vitamin A, polyphenols or mixtures thereof. Antioxidants also include vitamin E derivatives, vitamin A derivatives, polyphenol derivatives or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the antioxidant is vitamin E.

The amount of antioxidant in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The antioxidant, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.4 to 0.9% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 0.8% by weight.

Other additives

The composition, in particular the aqueous phase according to embodiments herein, may also include one or more additives, which may in particular be chosen from at least one pH corrector, at least one sebum regulating active agent, at least one buffer, at least one surfactant, at least one active compound, at least one preservative, or mixtures thereof. It is understood that a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and/or their amount such that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the disclosure are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the intended addition. All of these embodiments, comprising the optional additives, are understood to be included within the scope of the present disclosure.

pH corrector

The aqueous phase of the composition, according to embodiments herein, includes one or more pH adjusters. The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be adjusted to the desired value using at least one pH adjuster, such as an acidifying agent or a basifying agent, for example, which are commonly used in cosmetic products.

The pH adjusters in the aqueous phase of the composition maintain the pH of the biphasic composition in a range of 4.2 to 4.8, preferably in a range of 4.3 to 4.7, more preferably in a range of 4.4 to 4.6.

The pH adjuster may include acidifying agents, alkalinizing agents, or combinations thereof. Examples of acidifying agents include, but are not limited to, mineral or organic acids, for example, hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, or sulfonic acid.

Examples of basifying agents include, but are not limited to, ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal hydroxide, alkaline earth metal hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di-, and triethanolamines, and compounds of the formula below:

in which

R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, and R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl radical, preferably sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or triethanolamines.

According to preferred embodiments herein, the pH adjuster is potassium hydroxide.

The amount of pH adjuster in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The pH adjuster, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight.

Sebum regulating active ingredient

The composition, according to embodiments herein, includes one or more sebum controlling actives, which are used to absorb excess sebum, unclog pores and further help control acne. Examples of sebum controlling actives include, but are not limited to, zinc gluconate, charcoal, salicylic acid or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the sebum regulating active ingredient is zinc gluconate.

The amount of sebum-regulating active in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The sebum-regulating active, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.08 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight.

Buffer

The composition, according to embodiments herein, includes one or more buffers, which are used to neutralize any residual acidity of the ingredients in the composition. Examples of buffers include, but are not limited to, citric acid, sodium citrate, tributyl citrate, triethyl citrate, tri-C12-13 alkyl citrate, tri-C14-15 alkyl citrate, tricaprylyl citrate, triethylhexyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, isodecyl citrate, stearyl citrate, dilauryl citrate, ethyl citrate, or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the buffer is a combination of citric acid, sodium citrate and triethyl citrate, more preferably a combination of sodium citrate and triethyl citrate.

The amount of buffer in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The buffer, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01 to 2.3% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 2.1% by weight.

Surfactant

The composition, according to embodiments herein, includes one or more surfactants, which are used to impart cleaning properties to the composition. Examples of surfactants include, but are not limited to, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyethylene glycol (PEG)-6 caprylic capric glycerides, poloxamer 184, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the surfactant is polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate.

The amount of surfactant in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The surfactant, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.008 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.4% by weight.

Active compound

The composition, according to embodiments herein, includes one or more active compounds, which are used to impart an additional cosmetic/dermatological effect, such as caring for a keratinous layer. Examples of active compounds include, but are not limited to, sodium chloride, hydroxyacetophenone, or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the active compound is sodium chloride and hydroxyacetophenone.

The amount of active compound in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The active compound, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.08 to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight.

Conservative

The composition, according to embodiments herein, includes one or more preservatives, which are used to protect the composition from chemical and biological degradation, microbial contamination, and any associated degradation of the composition. Examples of preservatives include, but are not limited to, mytrimonium bromide, phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, parabens, pentylene glycol, methylisothiazolinone, benzisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, benzyl alcohol, sorbic acid, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the preservative is mytrimonium bromide.

The amount of preservative in the composition, according to the embodiments herein, may vary. The preservative, according to the embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005 to 0.3% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight.

Preparation of compositions according to the disclosure

The compositions according to the disclosure can be manufactured using known processes, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field. Generally, the method comprises mixing a first active compound, a lightening active, an anti-dullness active and a poly(hydroxy) acid in water at room temperature to obtain the first mixture. A first buffer component, a second active compound and a surfactant are added to the water heated to a temperature of about 60 to 65 °C, thoroughly mixed to obtain the second mixture. A second buffer component and a sebum regulating active are mixed at about 60 °C with the second mixture, then further mixed with the first mixture in the main container, and finally cooled to room temperature with the third mixture obtained. A preservative, alpha hydroxy acids and a pH adjuster were added to the third mixture, mixed at room temperature to obtain the clear aqueous phase with the desired pH. The emollient and the antioxidant are mixed at room temperature to obtain the oil phase.

According to a preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase and the oily phase are mixed in a weight ratio range of 90:10 to 93:7, preferably in a ratio range of 91:9 to 93:7, in particular in a ratio of 92:8.

In a more preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase and the oily phase are mixed in a weight ratio of 92:8 to obtain the two-phase composition. It is preferable that the step of mixing the oily phase and the aqueous phase is carried out gently so that the oily phase and the aqueous phase are slowly poured into a container such as a jar.

Shape

It is preferred that the composition according to the present disclosure be in the form of a two-phase liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). If the density of the oil phase is less than that of the aqueous phase, the oil phase is present on the aqueous phase, in the composition according to the present disclosure. Typically, the oil phase is present on the aqueous phase, at rest, because the density of oil tends to be less than that of water.

The composition, according to a preferred embodiment, is capable of transforming into a single-phase composition upon agitation. The single-phase composition does not have two distinct aqueous and oily phases and has a single phase, which is generally an emulsion phase. The emulsion phase may not be transparent, but may have a cloudy appearance.

The monophasic composition according to another preferred embodiment is capable of transforming into a biphasic composition upon rest.

The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be acidic. For example, the pH of the composition according to the present disclosure is in a range of 4.2 to 4.8, preferably in a range of 4.3 to 4.7, more preferably in a range of 4.4 to 4.6.

The composition according to the present invention may be in any form such as a liquid, a solution or a liquid gel.

The composition according to the present disclosure may be a biphasic cleansing composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure may be intended to be applied to a keratinous substance. The expression "keratinous layer" herein refers to the most superficial part of the human epidermis containing keratin as a main constituent element, and examples thereof include the skin, scalp, nails, lips, hair, and the like. Thus, it is preferable that the cleansing composition according to the present disclosure is used for a cosmetic process of cleansing and/or caring for the keratinous layer, in particular the skin, lips and/or eyes, body or hair.

The composition according to the present disclosure may preferably be a leave-on composition. The leave-on cleansing composition is capable of removing dirt, sebum and/or makeup on a keratinous layer such as the skin, facial lips and eyes from the keratinous layer.

Use and method

A composition, according to embodiments herein, may more particularly be a composition for cleaning and caring for a keratinous layer, such as human skin, face, lips or eyes. Preferably, the composition, according to embodiments herein, is a composition for removing all types of makeup, for cleaning and lightening the skin. Accordingly, the composition, in various embodiments herein, may be a facial cleanser, a cleansing serum or a cleansing solution. The composition may further be in any suitable form, for example gel, liquid gel or liquid form. In a preferable embodiment, the composition is in the form of a liquid cleanser.

The composition, according to the embodiments herein, when used, will be mixed, for example, by stirring with the hands (manual stirring). After mixing, the biphasic composition according to embodiments herein is transformed into a monophasic composition. The monophasic composition is immediately applied to the keratinous layer to deliver the desired cosmetic effects.

The composition according to the present disclosure may preferably be used by being impregnated on a porous substrate such as a nonwoven fabric preferably made from cellulose fibers such as cotton. Then sliding the cotton over the desired area of the keratinous layer to remove makeup, dirt, etc.

According to preferred embodiments herein, the method of removing make-up, cleaning and/or caring for the skin, lips and/or eyes, body or hair, characterized in that the cleansing composition is applied to the skin, lips and/or eyes, or hair.

Although the present disclosure has been described in considerable detail with reference to certain embodiments and their implementations, other embodiments are possible to cover modifications and variations of the present disclosure.

Examples

The disclosure will now be illustrated by practical examples, which are intended to illustrate the operation of the disclosure and are not intended to impose restrictive limitations on the scope of this disclosure. Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by a person of ordinary skill in the art to which this disclosure pertains. Although methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein may be used in the practice of the disclosed methods and compositions, the exemplary methods, devices and materials are described herein. It is to be understood that this disclosure is not limited to the particular methods and experimental conditions described, as such methods and conditions may apply.

The quantities of ingredients are indicated in the following examples as percentages of weight of active ingredient.

Measurement and evaluation methods

Compositions C(1) to C(3) as prepared in the following Example 1 were evaluated in terms of stability characteristics, pH and sensory aspects.

Stability assessment

The stability of the compositions was evaluated by placing the compositions at various temperatures in the range of 4 °C to 60 °C, such as 4 °C, 25 °C, 37 °C and 45 °C for a period of 2 months. The observation of haze, discoloration or crystallization and any other changes in appearance of the compositions were checked.

pH assessment

The pH of the compositions was determined using standard laboratory protocols.

Sensory evaluation Quantitative consumer testing

Test protocol: Monadic with 4 weeks of home use followed by 1 week of deprivation. Human volunteers (n=600) aged 18 to 35 years were involved in the trial, to evaluate sensory aspects, such as gradual and immediate lightening, effective make-up removal, non-sticky sensation, suitability for acne-prone skin, skin-friendliness, skin/eye irritant profile and skin-friendliness of the compositions according to the invention and commercial products.

Consumer qualitative testing-1

Test protocol: 40 human volunteers divided into panels of 20 each, aged 18 to 35 years, where 50% of them had normal skin and 50% had oily skin and who were regular users of two-phase make-up remover products were involved in the test, to assess the sensory aspects, such as immediate lightening, effective make-up removal, non-greasy sensation and skin/eye irritant profile, of the compositions according to the invention and commercial products.

Qualitative consumer testing-2

Test protocol: 40 human volunteers, aged 18 to 35 years, in which 50% of them had normal skin and 50% had oily skin and who were regular users of two-phase make-up remover products were involved in the test, to assess the sensory aspects, such as gradual lightening, non-sticky feeling and skin/eye irritation profile, of the compositions according to the invention and commercial products. A recommended use instruction provided to the volunteers was not to rinse the face after using the composition.

Example 1

Determination of the effect of a modified weight range of AHA in a biphasic composition on skin safety

The biphasic composition, C(1) in accordance with the present disclosure was prepared by the process described herein and the comparative compositions, C(2), C(3) and C(3) provided in Table 1, were also prepared.

The process includes mixing a first active compound, a lightening active, an anti-dullness active and a poly(hydroxy) acid in water at room temperature to obtain the first mixture. A first buffer component, a second active compound and a surfactant are added to the water heated to a temperature of about 60 to 65 °C, thoroughly mixed to obtain the second mixture. A second buffer component and a sebum-regulating active are mixed at about 60 °C with the second mixture, then mixed with the first mixture in the main container, and finally cooled to room temperature with the third mixture obtained. A preservative, alpha hydroxy acids and a pH adjuster are added to the third mixture, mixed at room temperature to obtain the clear aqueous phase with the desired pH. The emollients and the antioxidant are mixed at room temperature to obtain the oil phase.

The effect of the biphasic compositions prepared in accordance with the present disclosure and the comparative compositions on skin safety was determined using a pilot scale study. In this study, approximately 12 healthy volunteers were instructed to apply the compositions to their face and report any signs of eye irritation, burning sensation or stinging on the facial skin.

Results

The results obtained with compositions C(1) to C(3) in terms of skin safety are described in detail below.

Composition C(1) according to the present disclosure was reported to be safe and did not cause any irritation or burning sensation in volunteers after use. Comparative compositions C(2) and C(3) with a pH of 4, which was beyond the desired range, caused eye irritation and skin burning sensation in 33% of the volunteers. Therefore, it is necessary that all parameters such as the specific components, their weight ranges and their pH be within the desired ranges as disclosed herein, in order to obtain the desired biphasic cleansing composition.

Phase Function of ingredients Ingredients (INCI name) Content (% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) C(1) C(2) C(3) Aqueous Alkali/pH Corrector Potassium hydroxide 1.10 0.98 0.97 Aqueous Lightening active ingredient Niacinamide 2.01 2.01 2.01 Aqueous AHA Lactic acid 0.37 0.92 1.1 Aqueous AHA Glycolic acid 0.92 0.37 0.46 Aqueous Anti-dull complexion active ingredient Caffeine 0.50 0.5 0.5 Aqueous Sebum regulating active ingredient Zinc gluconate 0.23 0.23 0.23 Aqueous PHA Gluconolactone 1.49 1.49 1.49 Aqueous Solvent Aqueous 82.55 83.65 82.41 Aqueous Buffer Sodium citrate 0.10 0.10 0.10 Aqueous Buffer Triethyl citrate 1.84 1.84 1.84 Aqueous Buffer Citric acid 0.04 0.04 0.04 Aqueous Active compound Sodium chloride 0.46 0.46 0.46 Aqueous Surfactant Polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate 0.05 0.05 0.05 Aqueous Active compound Hydroxyacetophenone 0.28 0.28 0.28 Aqueous Conservative Myrtrimonium bromide 0.06 0.06 0.06 Oily Antioxidant (vitamin E) Tocopheryl acetate 0.7 0.7 0.7 Oily Emollient Isopropyl myristate 0.56 0.56 0.56 Oily Emollient Isohexadecane 4.34 4.34 4.34 Oily Emollient Isododecane 2.4 2.4 2.4 Product evaluation pH 4.5 4 4 Skin Safety Assessment No irritation 33% (4/12) reported irritation and/or burning sensation 33% (4/12) reported irritation and/or burning sensation

Accordingly, it is observed that the use of specific ingredients as disclosed in various embodiments herein facilitated obtaining the cleansing composition with the desired physical and skin safety properties.

Example 2 Sensory evaluation

The selected working composition(s) were evaluated with respect to various sensory aspects, such as gradual and immediate lightening, effective make-up removal, non-sticky feel, suitability for acne-prone skin, skin friendliness and skin/eye irritant profile, compared to selected commercial products.

Each of the sensory aspects was evaluated using a combination of qualitative consumer testing, quantitative consumer testing, instrumental testing and in vitro testing, as appropriate.

I. Progressive lightening

The progressive lightening effect provided by the compositions was evaluated using a combination of a qualitative consumer test and a quantitative consumer test.

Qualitative consumer testing-2

Composition C(1) according to the present disclosure was qualitatively evaluated for its progressive lightening effect on human skin.

Results

Within 30 days of using Composition C(1), the majority of volunteers experienced a visible, gradual increase in skin radiance and luminosity of approximately 1 to 3 levels more than untreated skin.

Quantitative consumer testing

Composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and commercial facial cleansing products CP(1) and CP(2) were quantitatively evaluated for their progressive lightening effect on the skin.

C(1) CP(1) CP(2) Aqueous phase Oily phase 92:8 85:15 88:12

Results

91% of volunteers reported a significant increase in the association of progressive lightening for C(1) compared to commercial products CP(1) and CP(2).

Thus, the composition C(1) according to the present disclosure comprising an optimal combination of actives such as skin lightening active niacinamide, glycolic acid and lactic acid-AHA, anti-dullness active caffeine as part of the biphasic composition with an aqueous phase:oil phase ratio of 92:8 imparted progressive skin lightening effects.

II. Effective makeup removal

The makeup removal efficacy of the compositions in accordance with the present disclosure compared to commercial products was assessed by a combination of an instrumental test, a qualitative consumer test and a quantitative consumer test.

The makeup removal efficacy of the compositions in accordance with the present disclosure (C(1)) compared to the commercial product (CP(3)) was assessed by a test involving removal of stubborn mascara by 8 volunteers; aged 18 to 60, with medium to long eyelashes and without drooping eyelids.

Protocol : Elimination of mascara

Step 1 Per eye: Use 3 cotton rounds (smooth side), each soaked with 2 mL of test formula. Then, for both eyes at the same time:

Step 2 Apply the first cotton pad to closed eyes and leave for 5 seconds (this was done for the first cotton pad).

Step 3 With the volunteer's eyes closed, slide the cotton 3 times in an outward sweeping motion following the lashes from the inside to the outside.

Step 4 With the volunteer’s eyes open, glide the same cotton round 1 time in an inward sweeping motion across the skin along the base of the lower lashes, following the lash line from the outer corner to the inner corner. Then, with the volunteer’s eyes closed, glide the cotton round 1 time in an outward sweeping motion. The open/closed eye movements were repeated 2 more times (3 times total) with the same cotton round.

Step 5 Steps 3 and 4 were repeated for the second and third cotton rounds.

Step 6 A waiting time of 5 minutes was respected for the residue to dry.

Step 7 2 mL of positive control was applied to the cotton round (smooth side) and the removal process of steps 2 to 4 was repeated, again holding the first cotton round for 5 seconds.

Step 8 Step 7 was repeated for a total of 6 cotton pads (the last cotton pad used should be “clean”).

Step 9 Circles counted for efficiency according to method.

Effectiveness of removing stubborn makeup High Medium to high Average Low to medium Weak Number of cotton pads 0 to 1.0 1.5 to 2.5 3.0 to 3.5 4.0 to 4.5 5.0 to 6.0

Results

Composition C(1) exhibited an average level of makeup removal efficiency (i.e., 1.5 to 2.5 cotton pads) while the commercial product CP(3) exhibited a low makeup removal efficiency (5 to 6 cotton pads). CP(3) had a weight ratio of aqueous phase to oil phase of 85:15, which confirmed that the composition of the present disclosure having a weight ratio of aqueous phase to oil phase of about 92:8 was much preferable for effective mascara removal.

Quantitative consumer testing

Composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and commercial facial cleansing products CP(1) and CP(2) were quantitatively evaluated for their makeup removal efficacy.

Results

97% of volunteers reported effective make-up removal with composition C(1) and also particularly highlighted that C(1) resulted in fresh and smooth skin after use.

Consumer qualitative testing-1

Composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and commercial facial cleansing products CP(1) and CP(2) were quantitatively evaluated for their makeup removal efficacy.

Results

All 20 volunteers on the panel observed that C(1) provided effective makeup removal without a sticky feeling compared to the commercial product CP(2).

Thus, composition C(1) according to the present disclosure comprising a weight optimized combination of alpha hydroxy acids and poly(hydroxy) acids, together with a cocktail of other aqueous phase components and oil phase emollients, provided a deep yet gentle cleansing experience while imparting sebum controlling/shine controlling benefits.

III. Non-greasy feel

The non-greasy feel of the compositions after make-up removal was assessed using a combination of qualitative consumer testing and a quantitative consumer test.

Consumer qualitative testing-1

Composition C(1) according to the present disclosure was qualitatively evaluated for its ability to impart a non-greasy sensation after makeup removal.

Results

All volunteers observed that C(1) provided effective makeup removal without leaving a greasy, sticky feeling.

Qualitative consumer testing-2

Composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and commercial facial cleansing product CP(2) were qualitatively evaluated for their ability to impart a non-greasy feel after makeup removal.

Results

All volunteers reported a non-greasy feeling and emphasized that it was not necessary to rinse after using the composition C(1), according to the present disclosure. On the other hand, all users of the commercial product CP(2) indicated that they had to wash their face to remove the sticky and greasy feeling.

Quantitative consumer testing

Composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and commercial facial cleansing products CP(1) and CP(2) were quantitatively evaluated for their ability to impart a non-sticky feel after effective makeup removal.

Results

87% of volunteers reported a significantly better non-oily skin sensation for C(1) compared to commercial products CP(1) and CP(2).

Thus, the composition C(1) according to the present disclosure comprising an optimal combination of light oils such as hydrocarbons imparted a non-sticky light skin feel in the biphasic composition with a water phase to oil phase ratio of 92:8 imparting a non-greasy feel compared to commercial products with a higher oil ratio.

IV. Suitable for acne-prone skin

Quantitative consumer testing

Composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and commercial facial cleansing products CP(1) and CP(2) were quantitatively evaluated for their suitability for use on acne-prone skin for makeup removal.

Results

75% of volunteers reported significantly better suitability of composition C(1) for acne-prone skin compared to commercial products CP(1) and CP(2).

Thus, the composition C(1) according to the present disclosure, comprising mild exfoliating skin actives such as AHA and PHA such as glycolic acid, lactic acid and gluconolactone as well as a sebum regulating active, such as gluconate, provided gentle exfoliation, sebum regulation and, therefore, was found to be more suitable for acne-prone skin compared to commercial products.

V. Respect for the skin

Skin friendliness, or the softness provided by the compositions, was assessed using a combination of instrumental testing and quantitative consumer testing.

Instrumental test for hydration efficacy

An instrumental test was carried out to assess the hydration efficiency of composition C(1).

Instrumental evaluation was performed on 24 healthy subjects on the dry forearm using Corneometer CM825, CK pH meter and Aquaflux AF200 to capture the hydration, pH and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) potential of the compositions at baseline and 1 hour, 4 hours and 6 hours after product application, under a standard controlled condition (temperature: 21±1 °C; RH: 45±5%). The bare arm without product application was considered as the negative control with a positive reference.

Protocol: Briefly, 2 mg/ ^cm2 of each of the compositions to be assessed were applied in a controlled manner to 6 sites on the forearm. Application instructions included gentle massage with a finger cot until complete absorption, in accordance with randomization.

Results

As illustrated in Tables 4, 5 and 6, C(1) delivered increased hydration, with desired pH and reduced transepidermal water loss at all time points, thus providing positive performance on skin friendliness.

[Table 4] Evaluation of hydration efficiency Model Product t0 t1 t4 t6 ∆t1 ∆t4 ∆t6 Avg. C(1) 24.54 32.91 32.15 33.36 8.37 7.6 8.81 SD 3.2 6.74 5.54 5.61 6.44 5.04 4.4 Avg. Untreated 24.59 25.7 25.67 26.09 1.11 1.08 1.5 SD 3.7 4.36 5.03 4.14 3.4 4.02 4.14

[Table 5] pH assessment

Model Product t0 t1 t4 t6 ∆t1 ∆t4 ∆t6 Avg. C(1) 5.48 5.34 5.38 5.42 -0.14 -0.1 -0.06 SD 0.26 0.32 0.27 0.29 0.37 0.43 0.33 Avg. Untreated 5.43 5.45 5.45 5.3 0.01 0.01 -0.13 SD 0.27 0.42 0.22 0.32 0.51 0.39 0.4

[Table 6] Transepidermal water loss

Model Product t0 t1 t4 t6 ∆t1 ∆t4 ∆t6 Avg. C(1) 12.15 6.41 8.75 9.24 -5.74 -3.4 -2.91 SD 5.42 5.32 4.47 5.51 3.26 2.73 2.77 Avg. Untreated 12.25 8.5 9.9 10.07 -3.76 -2.35 -2.18 SD 5.31 6.37 4.06 5.22 4.05 2.53 2.05

Quantitative consumer testing

Composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and commercial facial cleansing products CP(1) and CP(2) were quantitatively evaluated for their ability to provide skin friendliness.

Results

97% of volunteers reported a significantly better gentle cleansing effect of composition C(1) compared to both commercial products CP(1) and CP(2) and therefore the composition of the present disclosure was mild and provided better skin friendliness comparatively.

Thus, the composition C(1) according to the present disclosure, comprising an optimal level of skin care ingredients such as water, skin emollients, antioxidant, mild exfoliating actives such as AHA and PHA, contributed to the softness and skin-friendly characteristics of the composition.

VI. Non-irritating to skin and eyes

The non-irritating nature of the compositions for the skin and eyes was assessed using a combination of instrumental testing and qualitative consumer testing.

HCE in vitro test

The SkinEthic™ HCE (human corneal epithelium) corneal reconstruction model has been adopted in OECD WG 492 for the prediction of ocular irritation of chemicals/raw materials.

30μl-30 min protocol : 30 μl of composition was applied topically to the SkinEthic™ HCE model. Tissues were incubated for 30 min at 37 °C, 5% _CO2 , and 95% humidity, after 30 min of soaking. Viability was determined by the MTT conversion assay to predict irritation.

Result

Composition C1 was found to be acceptable without significant skin or eye irritation as reported by HCE testing.

PIRI PIRI Test

The sensation of skin discomfort, such as irritation or itching of the skin and eyes and the level were assessed by the randomized, blinded, sequential monodic evaluation of the composition C(1) and the commercial product CP(9). Twenty-eight volunteers, reactive to skin discomfort caused by cosmetic products and trained in the standard application method, participated in the study. The volunteers were instructed to evaluate any skin discomfort caused on the upper part of their cheek, from just after to 5 minutes after application. For the mean score of each type of discomfort, a significant difference was determined with p<0.05.

Results

Regarding itching as a skin discomfort, a mean score of 0.25 was reported for C(1) compared to CP(9) with a mean score of 0.11, meaning that composition C(1) caused significantly less itching than CP(9).

Consumer qualitative testing-1

Composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and the commercial product CP(2) were qualitatively evaluated for their non-irritating characteristic towards the skin and eyes.

Results

The majority of volunteers (16 to 19 volunteers) observed that C(1) did not sting or irritate the eyes or leave a bitter taste on the lips compared to the commercial product CP(2).

Qualitative consumer testing-2

Composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and commercial products CP(2) and CP(3) were qualitatively evaluated for their non-irritating characteristic for the skin and eyes.

Results

All volunteers reported that composition C(1) did not irritate the eyes or leave an unpleasant “chemical” taste on the lips compared to commercial products CP(2) and CP(3).

Thus, the composition C(1) according to the present disclosure with the appropriate ingredients with an optimal dosage of skin exfoliating actives such as AHA and PHA, and an optimized pH of 4.5 was suitable for the skin without causing irritation to the skin or eyes.

VI. Immediate clarification

The immediate lightening effect provided by the compositions was assessed using a combination of an instrumental test, a qualitative consumer test and a quantitative consumer test.

Instrumental test

Fourteen healthy volunteers with light, medium and dark skin tones and oily skin were recruited for the instrumental test and the immediate skin lightening effects were assessed. The instrumental assessment was performed before and after product application to capture the evolution of skin color and brightness using Minolta CD 700 spectrophotometer and Newtone Lightcam.

Compositions tested: Compositions C(1) and commercial products CP(2), CP(4), CP(5), CP(6), CP(7) and CP(8).

Chromasphere® measurement protocol:

1) Volunteers were instructed to wash their faces with water and allow them to acclimatize under standard conditions (temperature: 21±1°C; RH: 45±5%) for 30 minutes.

2) The T-0 baseline measurement was obtained on Chromasphere, with the cheek and forehead as the assessment area.

3) The product was applied in 6 passes using 2.5 mL of the composition taken from a cotton pad, in accordance with randomization using the standard protocol.

4) The T-imm measurement was obtained on Chromasphere.

5) Appreciated parameters: For skin color changes: L, C, tint(H) and dE94; For a brilliant shine: dC.

Results

The difference in skin lightening from the baseline measurement T0 and the respective time point (T-imm) after application of the product is represented as a dL value. The dL values obtained for the tested compositions are summarized in Figure 1A. Similarly, the change in saturation values, represented by dC, is summarized in Figure 1B. The dC values confirmed that composition C(1) according to the present disclosure provided significantly increased saturation and made the skin color more vivid and intense. The change in skin tone is represented by dH and is summarized in Figure 1C. The overall color change from baseline is represented by dE94 and is summarized in Figure 1D. Thus, composition C(1) of the present disclosure showed significant skin lightening and saturation effects.

Consumer qualitative testing-1

Composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and commercial products CP(1) and CP(2) were qualitatively evaluated for their immediate lightening effects on the skin.

Results

All volunteers observed that C(1) was able to provide an instant glow with soft skin after use compared to commercial products, which left a sticky effect despite offering brightening effects.

Quantitative consumer testing

Composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and commercial facial cleansing products CP(1) and CP(2) were quantitatively evaluated for their ability to provide skin friendliness.

Results

87% of volunteers reported significantly better cleansing efficacy with skin lightening effects as provided by composition C(1) compared to commercial products CP(1) and CP(2).

Thus, the composition C(1) according to the present disclosure, comprising an active cocktail such as AHA, PHA, a luminosity active such as niacinamide at an active level and a low pH has shown superior efficacy in skin rejuvenation and lightening.

Accordingly, it has been observed that the use of specific ingredients as disclosed in various embodiments herein facilitates obtaining the cosmetic composition with the desired sensory properties.

Benefits of this disclosure

The present disclosure provides a composition for removing make-up, cleaning and/or caring for a keratinous layer, comprising an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy)acid; (c) at least one lightening active ingredient; (d) at least one anti-dull complexion active ingredient; and (e) water; an oily phase comprising: (f) at least one emollient; and (g) optionally at least one antioxidant. The composition is a silicone- and alcohol-free biphasic cleansing composition with the skin care benefits listed below.

(a) The biphasic composition upon stirring transforms into a monophasic composition and is stable at all temperatures without any hazy appearance or crystallization observed.

(b) The composition is easy to use and does not require rinsing.

(c) The specific combination of emollients ensures a non-greasy feeling on the skin after effective removal of makeup and dirt.

(d) The optimized combination of alpha hydroxy acids and poly(hydroxy) acids contributing to a pH of approximately 4.5 ensures a gentle skin exfoliating action, without causing eye and skin irritation. Therefore, the composition is suitable for sensitive and acne-prone skin types.

(e) The optimized combination of a skin brightening active and an anti-dullness active provides instant and gradual brightening and leaves skin soft, smooth and non-sticky.

(f) The composition offers multiple benefits to the skin such as non-greasy feel, clear and glowing skin, reductions in acne pimples, reduction in density of pigment spots etc. and ensures an overall complexion enhancement.

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition comprising:
(i) an aqueous phase comprising:
(a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid;
(b) at least one poly(hydroxy)acid,
(c) at least one lightening active ingredient;
(d) at least one anti-dull complexion active ingredient; and
(e) water,
(ii) an oily phase comprising:
(f) at least one emollient; and
(g) optionally at least one antioxidant,
wherein the aqueous phase and the oily phase are in a weight ratio range of 90:10 to 93:7; preferably in a weight ratio range of 91:9 to 93:7. Composition according to claim 1, in which the aqueous phase further comprises at least one pH corrector, at least one sebum regulating active ingredient, at least one buffer, at least one surfactant, at least one active compound, at least one preservative, or mixtures thereof. Composition according to either of the preceding claims, in which the alpha hydroxy acid is in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight; and is chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid or mixtures thereof; preferably, the alpha hydroxy acid is a combination of lactic acid and glycolic acid, the lactic acid being in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight; and the glycolic acid being in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.7 to 1.5% by weight. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the poly(hydroxy)acid is in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 1.2 to 2.5% by weight; and the poly(hydroxy)acid is chosen from gluconolactone, galactonic acid, lactobionic acid or their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the lightening active ingredient is in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 2.5% by weight, and is chosen from niacinamide, arbutin, kojic acid, vitamin C, azelaic acid, retinoids, hydroquinone, linoleic acid or mixtures thereof; the anti-dull complexion active ingredient is in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.2 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 0.8% by weight, and is chosen from caffeine, polyglutamic acid or mixtures thereof; and the water is in an amount ranging from 70 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 75 to 85% by weight, more preferably from 80 to 85% by weight. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the at least one emollient is in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 13% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight; and is chosen from isohexadecane, isopropyl myristate, isododecane, liquid paraffin, esters such as isononyl isonanoate, erythrityl tetraethylanoate, cetyl hexanoate, isostearyl palmitate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, cetearyl isononate, undecane, tridecane or mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the antioxidant is in an amount ranging from 0.2 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.4 to 0.9% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 0.8% by weight; and is chosen from vitamin E, vitamin A, polyphenols or their mixtures. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 7, in which the pH corrector is in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight; the sebum-regulating active ingredient is in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.08 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight; the buffer is in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01 to 2.3% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 2.1% by weight; the surfactant is in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.008 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.4% by weight; the active compound is in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.08 to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight; and the preservative is in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005 to 0.3% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight; preferably, the pH corrector is chosen from potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine or their mixtures; preferentially, the sebum-regulating active ingredient is chosen from zinc gluconate, charcoal, salicylic acid or mixtures thereof; preferentially, the buffer is chosen from citric acid, sodium citrate, tributyl citrate, triethyl citrate, C12-13 trialkyl citrate, C14-15 trialkyl citrate, tricaprylyl citrate, triethylhexyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, isodecyl citrate, stearyl citrate, dilauryl citrate, ethyl citrate or mixtures thereof; preferably, the surfactant is selected from polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyethylene glycol (PEG)-6 caprylic capric glycerides, poloxamer 184, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate or mixtures thereof; preferably, the active compound is selected from sodium chloride, hydroxyacetophenone or mixtures thereof; and preferably, the preservative is selected from myrtrimonium bromide, phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, parabens, pentylene glycol, methylisothiazolinone, benzisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, benzyl alcohol, sorbic acid, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate or mixtures thereof; preferably, the composition has a pH in a range of 4.2 to 4.8, preferably in a range of 4.3 to 4.7, more preferably in a range of 4.4 to 4.6; preferably, the composition is capable of transforming into a single-phase composition; in which preferably the single-phase composition is capable of transforming into a two-phase composition; preferably, the composition is free of silicones; preferably, the composition is free of alcohols. Method for removing make-up, cleaning and/or caring for the skin, lips and/or eyes, body or hair, characterized in that the cleansing composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8 is applied to the skin, lips and/or eyes, or hair. Use of the composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8 for removing make-up, cleaning and/or caring for a keratinous layer.