FR3148147A1 - Composition comprising an anti-aging active ingredient and the combination of two specific surfactants, a superabsorbent polymer and silica - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprising an anti-aging active ingredient and the combination of two specific surfactants, a superabsorbent polymer and silica The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - at least one anti-aging active ingredient, - a superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, - a first surfactant chosen from fatty acid esters and polyethylene glycol comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units, - a second surfactant chosen from C16-C22 fatty acid esters and sorbitan, and - silica. Figure for the abstract: None

Description

Composition comprising an anti-aging active ingredient and the combination of two specific surfactants, a superabsorbent polymer and silica

The present invention relates to a care composition which has improved sensoriality upon application and after application.

In the cosmetic field of care, cosmetic compositions that make it possible to obtain both good sensory properties and a care effect are increasingly sought after by users. By care effect, we mean, for example, an effect against the drying out or aging of keratin materials and in particular the skin, this care effect being provided by active agents.

However, obtaining this dual effect (good sensory properties and care effect) requires being able to introduce one or more hydrophilic active ingredients in sufficient quantity into the composition without compromising the sensoriality which could be affected by the galenic chosen to incorporate said active ingredient(s).

To date, a wide variety of care compositions are already known and effective, but their sensoriality always needs to be improved.

There is therefore a need for care compositions, in particular anti-aging compositions, with improved sensoriality.

In particular, there is a need for care compositions, in particular anti-aging compositions, providing in particular a plumping effect to the skin while presenting an improved sensoriality.

In particular, there is a need for care compositions, in particular anti-aging compositions, providing in particular a plumping effect to the skin while providing a less oily finish and/or a higher slippery sensation and/or a lower film-forming sensation and a freshness effect on application.

The inventors have now discovered that the combination of silica and a superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer in a composition comprising an anti-aging active agent and two specific surfactants makes it possible to obtain a care composition which has an improved sensoriality, in particular providing a plumped effect to the skin while providing a less greasy finish and/or a higher slippery sensation and/or a lower film-forming sensation and a freshness effect on application. Indeed, it has been discovered that, surprisingly, the combination of the superabsorbent polymer and silica makes it possible to significantly reduce the linear viscoelastic domain of the composition, allowing an even stronger sensation of transformation of the product and therefore an improved sensoriality, compared to compositions comprising neither superabsorbent polymer nor silica, or only one of the two.

Thus, the subject of the present invention is a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

- at least one anti-aging active ingredient,

- a superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer,

- a first surfactant chosen from fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units,

- a second surfactant chosen from C16-C22 fatty acid esters and sorbitan, and

- silica.

The composition according to the invention is preferably cosmetic. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion.

By “physiologically acceptable” we mean an environment compatible with keratin materials.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention, preferably for hydrating and/or reducing the appearance and/or attenuating the signs of aging of keratin materials, in particular of the skin.

Polym era superabsorbent chosen from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer.

The term "superabsorbent polymer" means a polymer which is capable in its dry state of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular water and in particular distilled water. Such superabsorbent polymers are described in the book "Absorbent polymer technology, Studies in polymer science 8" by L. BRAN NON-PAPPAS and R. HARLAND, published by Elsevier, 1990.

These polymers have a high capacity for absorbing and retaining water and aqueous fluids. After absorption of the aqueous liquid, the polymer particles thus soaked in aqueous fluid remain insoluble in the aqueous fluid and thus retain their individualized particulate state.

The superabsorbent polymer may have a water absorption capacity of 20 to 2000 times its own weight (i.e. 20 g to 2000 g of water absorbed per gram of absorbent polymer), preferably 30 to 1500 times, and more preferably 50 to 1000 times. These water absorption characteristics are defined at standard temperature (25 °C) and pressure (760 mm Hg or 100000 Pa) conditions and for distilled water. The value of the water absorption capacity of a polymer can be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer(s) in 150 g of a water solution, waiting 20 minutes, filtering the unabsorbed solution on a 150 µm filter for 20 minutes and weighing the unabsorbed water.

The superabsorbent polymer used in the composition of the invention is in the form of particles. Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer has, in the dry or non-hydrated state, an average size less than or equal to 100 µm, preferably less than or equal to 50 µm, ranging for example from 1 to 100 µm, preferably from 5 to 50 µm and better still from 7 to 30 µm.

The average particle size corresponds to the mass average diameter (D ₅₀ ) measured by laser granulometry or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art. These particles, once hydrated, swell to form soft particles having an average size ranging from 10 µm to 1000 µm.

The superabsorbent polymers according to the invention are starches grafted with an acrylic polymer. The acrylic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate. Such polymers have gelling properties and a feel close to that provided by a silicone compound (“silicone-like” feel).

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the superabsorbent polymer(s) used comprise from 85 to 95% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and from 5 to 15% by weight of starch. Preferably, they consist of 90% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and 10% by weight of starch.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the molecular weight of the superabsorbent polymer(s) used is greater than 1000 daltons.

We can cite in particular starches grafted by an acrylic polymer and in particular by sodium polyacrylate, such as those marketed under the name Sanfresh ST-100MC by the company Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makimousse 25 or Makimousse 12 or Makimousse 7 by the company Daito Kasei (INCI name Sodium polyacrylate Starch).

The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are preferably starches grafted with an acrylic homo- or copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate, which are preferably in the form of particles.

Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic homopolymer, preferably in the form of particles having an average size (or average diameter) less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of particles.

Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer is present in the composition of the invention in an active material content greater than 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.06% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.08% to 2% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

First t surfactant chosen from fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units

The composition according to the invention comprises a first surfactant chosen from fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The number of ethylene oxide units in polyethylene glycol can range from 20 to 50, preferably from 35 to 45.

The fatty acid is preferably a C14-C24 fatty acid. It is understood that the fatty chain of the fatty acid may be linear or branched, and saturated or comprising at least one unsaturation. Preferably, the fatty acid is a fatty acid with a saturated and linear chain. The fatty acid is preferably a C16-C22 fatty acid, preferably with a saturated and linear chain.

The fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units is preferably a stearic acid ester of polyethylene glycol comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units (20 to 50 ethylene oxide units, PEG-20 to PEG-50).

As an example of fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units, mention may be made of stearic acid esters comprising respectively 20, 30, 40 or 50 ethylene oxide units, such as the products marketed respectively under the name Myrj 49 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 20 EO; CTFA name: PEG-20 stearate), Myrj 51, Myrj 52 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 40 EO; CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), Myrj 53 or Myrj 59 P by the company CRODA.

Preferably, the first surfactant chosen from fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 1% to 3% by weight.

Second surfactant chosen C fatty acid esters ₁₆ -C ₂₂ and sorbitan

The composition according to the invention comprises a second surfactant chosen from _C16 - _C22 fatty acid esters and sorbitan.

The C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid esters of sorbitan are formed by esterification of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain, having respectively from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, with sorbitol. These esters may in particular be chosen from sorbitan stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, oleates, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, sorbitan stearates and palmitates are used, and preferentially sorbitan stearates.

The _C16 - _C22 fatty acid ester of sorbitan present in the composition according to the invention is advantageously solid at a temperature less than or equal to 45°C.

As an example of a sorbitan ester that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Sorbitan stearate) sold by the company Croda under the name Span 60, sorbitan tristearate sold by the company Croda under the name Span 65 V, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: Sorbitan palmitate) sold by the company Croda under the name Span 40, sorbitan monoleate sold by the company Croda under the name Span 80 V, sorbitan trioleate sold by the company Uniquema under the name Span 85 V. Preferably, the sorbitan ester used is sorbitan tristearate.

Preferably, the second surfactant chosen from _C16 - _C22 fatty acid esters and sorbitan is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.25% to 5% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight.

Silica

The composition according to the invention comprises silica.

Preferably, the composition comprises silica powder, preferably in the form of silica microspheres.

Preferably, the DV50 of the silica microspheres (median size of the microspheres) ranges from 4 to 6 µm, preferably from 4.8 to 5.2 µm.

Preferably, the polydispersity of the size of the microspheres ranges from 0.9 to 1.2, preferably from 0.95 to 0.98.

Examples of silica powder suitable for the invention include porous silica microspheres sold under the name "SILICA BEADS SB-700" marketed by the company MYOSHI, "SUNSPHERE® H51", "SUNSPHERE® H33", "SUNSPHERE® H53" marketed by the company ASAHI GLASS; amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name "SA SUNSPHERE® H-33" and "SA SUNSPHERE® H-53" marketed by the company ASAHI GLASS.

Preferably, the silica is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 1% to 3% by weight.

Anti-aging active ingredient

The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one anti-aging active ingredient.

This active ingredient can be chosen from among the anti-aging active ingredients known in the art.

Preferably, said active ingredient is chosen from retinol and its derivatives, vitamins and their derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, panthenol and its derivatives, niacinamide and its derivatives, and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention may comprise retinol and/or one of its derivatives.

Retinol (vitamin A) has the following structural formula (VII):
.

By “retinol derivatives” is preferably meant C1-C24 retinol esters such as retinyl palmitate.

Preferably, the content of retinol and/or one of its derivatives in the composition ranges from 0.03% to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.03% to 0.7% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise an active ingredient chosen from vitamins and their derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, panthenol and its derivatives, niacinamide and its derivatives, and their mixtures.

Niacinamide has the following structural formula (I):

Niacinamide or nicotinamide is vitamin PP, which is a form of vitamin B3, and has the CAS number 98-92-0. This substance is also known as nicotinic acid amide and vitamin B3.

By “niacinamide derivative” is preferably meant a compound in which the amide group of niacinamide is secondary or tertiary, preferably substituted by one or two alkyl groups independently selected from C1-C4 alkyl groups.

For example, we can cite the nicotinic acid product marketed by the company DSM Nutritional Products.

Ascorbic acid is best described as L-ascorbic acid, or vitamin C. It has the following structural formula (II):

By “ascorbic acid derivative” is preferably meant a compound chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate (notably sold by the company Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA®), the potassium salt of DL-alpha-tocopheryl-DL-ascorbyl-phosphate also called Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate (sold by the company SEPPIC under the reference SEPIVITAL EPC®), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by the company DSM under the reference Stay-C 50®), disodium ascorbyl sulfate, sulfinyl-L-ascorbic acid, glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside.

By "ascorbyl glucoside" is meant the condensation product of glucose, in D form, i.e. in the form of α or β glucopyranose or α or β furanose, or in L form, with ascorbic acid, preferably in L form. Preferably, the ascorbyl glucoside is 2-O-α-D-glucopyranoside of L-ascorbic acid, available in particular from the company HAYASHIBARA.

Examples include the product Ascorbic acid L® from RECKON ORGANICS (pure synthetic ascorbic acid) or Ascorbic acid Ultrafine powder® from DSM nutritional product (natural extract).

Panthenol (or vitamin B5) has the following structure formula (III):
.

By “panthenol derivative” is preferably meant C1-C8 panthenol esters and ethers.

For example, we can cite the product D-panthenol 75W® marketed by the company BASF.

Tocopherol corresponds preferably to α-tocopherol, or vitamin E. It has the following structure formula (IV):

By “tocopherol derivative” is preferably meant tocopherol esters and ethers, preferably C1-C24, preferably C2-C18 esters and ethers, such as tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, tocopherol linoleate, or tocopherol nicotinate.

For example, we can cite the product DL Alpha Tocopheryl acetate® marketed by the company EISAI.

Preferably, the composition comprises between 0.5% and 5% by weight, preferably between 1% and 4% by weight, preferentially between 1.5% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one additional vitamin or one additional vitamin derivative chosen from tocopherol and/or one of its derivatives, ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, panthenol and/or one of its derivatives and niacinamide and/or one of its derivatives, and/or any of their mixtures.

Preferably, the total amount of additional vitamin ranges from 0.5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight.

According to one embodiment, the composition comprises panthenol and/or one of its derivatives and niacinamide and/or one of its derivatives.

According to another embodiment, the composition comprises tocopherol and/or one of its derivatives and ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives.

Any other lipophilic anti-aging active ingredient may also be present in the composition according to the invention.

Oily phase

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an oily phase.

The oily phase preferably comprises at least one oil, preferably as defined below.

Oil

Oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20 - 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). An oil suitable for the invention may be volatile or non-volatile. The oil may be hydrocarbon or silicone.

A hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be an animal hydrocarbon oil, a vegetable hydrocarbon oil, or a synthetic hydrocarbon oil.

The term " hydrocarbon oil " means an oil formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. Hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from silicone oil and fluorinated oil.

It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups. Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is free of heteroatoms such as nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus.

Oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 ^-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used include:

(i) hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean oils, almond oil and in particular sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose, coconut; or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel,

(ii) synthetic ethers, for example linear or branched, symmetrical or unsymmetrical dialkyl ethers containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE);

(iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as vaseline oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane and their mixtures (mineral oils);

(iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is > 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN®" or "Witconol TN®" by WITCO or “TEGOSOFT TN®” by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name “X-TEND 226®” by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name “Dub Dis®” by Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as C12-C13 linear dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by the company ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE as well as C14-C15 linear dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates;

(y) fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;

(vi) higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;

(vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC®” by the company Cognis;

(viii) fatty amides such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205® from Ajinomoto and mixtures thereof.

As volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permetyls®, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the Cognis company WO2007/068371 or WO2008/155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra or palm oil. Mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of the application WO2008/155059 of the Cognis company.

Other examples include n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL 12-97® and PARAFOL 14-97® respectively, as well as their mixtures.

Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, notably those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the company SNELL, can also be used.

The non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8.10 ^-6 m²/s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

We can also cite the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of general formula (X):
(X)

where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.

Among the oils of general formula (X), we can cite: 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (X) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.

Preferably, the silicone oil is a non-volatile PDMS.

Other fats

Another fatty substance (or lipophilic compound) can be chosen from:

- fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;

- waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes and Fischer-Tropsch waxes;

- pasty compounds, detailed below, such as butters of vegetable origin;

- fatty alcohols which are solid at room temperature with a linear carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol or cetylstearyl alcohol;

- and their mixtures.

Preferably, the oily phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms; and oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is > 10, and any of their mixtures. Advantageously, the oily phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl sebacate, and any of their mixtures.

Preferably, the oily phase of the composition further comprises another fatty substance chosen from fatty alcohols which are solid at room temperature with a linear carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol.

Preferably, the composition comprises from 5% to 25% by weight of oily phase relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 10% to 15% by weight.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

An aqueous phase contains water, and optionally at least one organic solvent soluble or miscible in water.

The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime blossom water, and/or natural thermal or mineral water, such as: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water and Tercis-les-bains, Avène water.

An aqueous phase may also comprise at least one organic solvent miscible in water, at 25°C.

Preferably, the water-miscible organic solvent is chosen from alcohols, polyols and their mixtures.

Among the alcohols, mention may be made of _C1 - _C10 alcohols, more preferably _C1 - _C5 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.

The polyol is preferably chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol), polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 40% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 50% by weight.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 40% to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 50% to 85% by weight.

Preferably, the aqueous phase of the composition comprises water, a _C1 - _C10 alcohol, preferably ethanol, and at least one polyol having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from glycerol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,3-propanediol and any of their mixtures.

Preferably, the composition comprises from 1% to 15% by weight of water-miscible organic solvent, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight.

Other ingredients

The composition according to the invention may contain one or more excipients usual in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as moisturizing agents; emollients; gelling agents, for example natural gelling agents; antioxidants; fragrances; film-forming agents; dyes; sequestering agents; electrolytes; pH adjusters; fillers; preservatives; antioxidants; plant extracts and mixtures thereof. The amounts of these different excipients are those conventionally used in the fields considered. In particular, these amounts vary according to the desired purpose and may for example range from 0.01% to 20%, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible active ingredient(s) or excipient(s) added to the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

Thickeners include:

- carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols® (Carbomers) and Pemulen such as Pemulen TR1® and Pemulen TR2® (acrylate/C10-C30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer);

- polyacrylamides such as crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305® (C.T.F.A. name: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600® (C.T.F.A. name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) or Simulgel EG (INCI name: Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic;

- copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS® and SEPINOV EMT 10® marketed by the company SEPPIC;

- cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose;

- polysaccharides and in particular carrageenan and gums such as xanthan gum;

- water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivatives such as acrylic silicones, polyether silicones and cationic silicones,

- and their mixtures.

Preferably, the thickeners are chosen from polyacrylamides, polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, cellulose derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

The thickeners are preferably present in an amount of between 0.5% and 10% by weight, preferably between 2% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also comprise at least one polymer, in particular a hydrophilic polymer. Such a polymer is preferably a water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymer.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymers preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g/mole to 10,000,000 g/mole, preferably from 80,000 g/mole to 8,000,000 g/mole, and even more preferably from 100,000 g/mole to 7,000,000 g/mole.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible homopolymers of AMPS suitable for the invention, mention may be made, for example, of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate acid such as that used in the commercial product SIMULGEL 800® (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate acid (INCI name: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLDIMEHYLTAURAMIDE) such as the product sold under the trade name HOSTACERIN AMPS® by the company Clariant.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS in accordance with the invention, we can cite for example:

- crosslinked acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymers such as that used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305® (CTFA name: 5 3028758 57 POLYACRYLAMIDE/C13-C14 ISOPARAFFIN/ LAURETH-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL 600® (CTFA name: ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/ ISOHEXADECANE/ POLYSORBATE-80) by the company SEPPIC;

- copolymers of AMPS® and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name ARISTOFLEX AVC® by the company CLARIANT (CTFA name: AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER) but neutralized by soda or potash;

- copolymers of AMPS® and sodium acrylate, such as for example the AMPS/sodium acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL EG® by the company SEPPIC or under the trade name SEPINOV EM® (CTFA name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);

- copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example the AMPS®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL NS® by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER (AND) SQUALANE (AND) POLYSORBATE 60) or such as the product marketed under the name COPOLYMERE ACRYLAMIDO-2-METHYL PROPANE SULFONATE DE SODIUM/HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE such as the commercial product SEPINOV EMT 10® (INCI name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);

- copolymers of AMPS® and ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate, optionally crosslinked, such as Aristoflex® HMS, which bears the name of AMPS/ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate (25 EO) 80/20 copolymer, crosslinked by trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) or Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer in INCI name.

As a sequestering agent, mention may be made of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) or its salts. Ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is the compound of formula (VI):
(VI).

Preferably, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is selected from alkali metal salts, such as potassium salts and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts. The alkali metal salts of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid are more particularly preferred.

Preferably, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid used according to the invention is trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate. Such a compound is for example that marketed under the name Natrlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals (dispersion of the compound at 37% by weight of active material in water), or that marketed under the name Octaquest E30 ^® by the company Octel Performance Chemicals.

Preferably, among the active ingredients that can be used, betaine, disodium EDTA, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, adenosine, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-tbutyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, magnesium gluconate, phytic acid, or even perfumes are preferred.

Preferred preservatives include hydroxyacetophenone, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol and mixtures thereof.

Concrete, but in no way limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

In the examples, the temperature is ambient (20°C) and expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise indicated.

In the examples, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are given in % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (%w/w).

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Preparation of a composition according to the invention and comparative compositions

Composition C1 according to the invention and comparative compositions C2* to C5* in Table 1 below are prepared by the following protocol:

Preparation of phase B by mixing the ingredients at 65°C minimum in a homogenization tank

Addition of phase A (aqueous phase) homogeneous and heated to approximately 50°C

Addition of C with dilution water to cool

Addition of phase D then gelation with stirring

Adding Phase E ingredients, fillers,

Addition of F, then G under inert atmosphere

Addition of alcohol (T below 30°C).

Phase Ingredient (% w/w) C1 C2* C3* C4* C5* HAS Charge (YELLOW 5) 0.0002 - - - - C PANTHENOL 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 HAS Charge (RED 4) 0.0003 - - - - B Conservative Qs Qs Qs Qs Qs B Scent 0.2 - - - - H ALCOHOL DENAT. 3 3 3 3 3 HAS Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 D HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 B PEG-40 STEARATE 2 2 2 2 2 HAS GLYCERIN 8 8 8 8 8 B SORBITAN TRISTEARATE 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 E LAUROYL LYSINE - - 2 - - D ISOHEXADECANE 3 3 3 3 3 B ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5 B Cetyl alcohol 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 B CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 D AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 B DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.7 E SILICA 2 - - 2 - F SODIUM ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 2 2 2 2 2 G RETINOL
(10% by weight of active matter) 3 3 3 3 3 HAS ADENOSINE 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 B PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-T-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 HAS PROPANEDIOL 3 3 3 3 3 HAS TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 HAS NIACINAMIDE 2 2 2 2 2 D SODIUM POLYACRYLATE STARCH
(Makimousse 12 by Daito Kasei) 0.1 - - - 0.1

Example 2: Sensory evaluation of compositions C1 and C2* to C5*

Composition C1 according to the invention and comparative compositions C2* to C5* were evaluated by an expert panel of 20 people. The sensory aspect, such as stickiness, when applying the compositions to the skin was evaluated. The panel is made up of expert people trained on different terminal products according to a procedure with standardized application gestures. The evaluation criteria are standardized and rated on a scale of 1 to 15 (from not to very). 0.05 ml of formula is deposited on a cheek in 10 turns. The hands are washed with soap and water then dried before evaluating various parameters including stickiness and slipperiness evaluated 2 minutes after application.

The results obtained are collected in the following table 2:

C1 C4* C3* C5* C2* % difference of C1 vs. C4* C3* C5* C2* Thickness under the finger (grip) 10.14 10.4 9.63 9.88 9.79 -2.4% 5.3% 2.6% 3.6% Bold arm application 6.01 7.2 7.81 6.8 7.38 -16.5% -23.0% -11.6% -18.6% Sliding
1 round 6.48 8.91 8.8 8.85 8.57 -27.3% -26.4% -26.8% -24.4% Sliding
15 laps 6.15 8.61 8.51 8.29 8.29 -28.6% -27.7% -25.8% -25.8% Sliding
25 laps 5.51 8.01 8.14 7.81 7.88 -31.2% -32.3% -29.4% -30.1% Oily fingers face application 3.36 4.53 4.59 4.71 4.83 -25.8% -26.8% -28.7% -30.4% Sticky skin
after 2min 1.12 1.77 2.84 3.25 3.85 -36.7% -60.6% -65.5% -70.9% Slippery skin
after 2min 9.84 7.84 6.99 6.35 6.46 25.5% 40.8% 55.0% 52.3% Film-forming after 2 min 1.17 1.96 2.52 2.59 2.86 -40.3% -53.6% -54.8% -59.1%

A difference of 10% is considered significant.

The results obtained demonstrate that composition C1 according to the invention differs from comparative compositions C2* to C5* in that it is perceived

- less greasy and less slippery when applied, and

- less sticky, less slippery and less film-forming after application

This demonstrates a synergy of effects of the association of silica and the superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer.

Example 3 : Assessment rheological compositions C1 and C2* to C5*

The rheological studies below make it possible to quantitatively measure the differences in texture between composition C1 according to the invention and compositions C2* to C5*.

Each composition was evaluated as follows:

The measurements are carried out on an imposed stress rheometer, RS 600 from the company ThermoRhéo, equipped with a thermostatic bath and a stainless steel mobile with cone/plane geometry, 35 mm in diameter and 2° angle. The measurements are carried out at a temperature of 32°C.

The composition is then subjected to harmonic shear according to a stress τ(t) varying sinusoidally according to a pulsation ω (ω=2пυ), υ being the frequency of the applied shear. The composition thus sheared undergoes a stress τ(t) and responds according to a deformation γ (t).

The stress τ(t) and the strain γ(t) are defined respectively by the following relations:

τ(t) = τ ₀ cos(ω.t) γ(t)= γ ₀ cos(ω.t – δ)

τ ₀ being the maximum stress amplitude and γ ₀ being the maximum strain amplitude. The elasticity δ is the phase shift angle between stress and strain.

The measurements are carried out at a frequency of 1 Hz (υ = 1 Hz).

Increasing stresses are applied to the sample starting from an initial stress of 0.01 Pa and ending with a final stress of 1000 Pa, with the stresses being applied only once.

We measure the evolution of the elastic and viscous moduli G’ and G’’ and of the elasticity δ as a function of the applied stress τ.

The parameters evaluated are as follows:

- The stress (τ) at the crossing point, which corresponds to the phase transition between a so-called solid state to a more liquid state, and

- The length of the plateau of the linear viscoelastic domain G’ (linear domain where the rheological parameters are independent of the applied stress), which reflects the more or less long duration at the end of which the material will modify its structure in response to the applied stress (we speak of LVR).

The results obtained are shown in the following table 3:

​ C1 C4* C3* C5* C2* % difference of C1 vs. C4* C3* C5* C2* τ constraint in Pa at the crossing ​ 194.2 199.1 156.5 172.5 172.7 -2.5% 24.1% 12.6% 12.4% End of the linear viscoelastic domain, LVR (G' in Pa)​ 646.5 756.2 756.2 685.5 630.5 -14.5% -14.5% -5.7% 2.5%

These results once again show a synergy provided by the combination of silica and the superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer. Surprisingly, the phase transition constraint is close to that of silica (with a difference of -2.5%) while the extent of the viscoelastic domain is more in line with that of a formula without filler or even only with superabsorbent polymer. Despite their “absorbent” physicochemistry, the silica and the superabsorbent polymer combined in the composition C1 according to the invention do not exhibit cumulative absorbent properties. The composition C1 according to the invention has a lower LVR than the comparative compositions C4* and C5*, which only comprise silica or superabsorbent polymer. The rheological properties of the composition C1 according to the invention are therefore surprising and unexpected.

Claims (12)

Composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
- at least one anti-aging active ingredient,
- a superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted with an acrylic polymer,
- a first surfactant chosen from fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units,
- a second surfactant chosen from _C16 - _C22 fatty acid esters and sorbitan, and
- silica. Composition according to claim 1, in which the superabsorbent polymer is a starch grafted with an acrylic homo- or copolymer, in particular sodium polyacrylate, preferably in the form of particles. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the superabsorbent polymer is present in an active material content greater than 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.06% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.08% to 2% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the first surfactant is chosen from C14-C24 fatty acid esters, advantageously stearic acid, and polyethylene glycol comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units, preferably comprising 35 to 45 ethylene oxide units. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the first surfactant is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 1% to 3% by weight. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the second surfactant is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.25% to 5% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the silica is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 1% to 3% by weight. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the anti-aging active ingredient is chosen from retinol and its derivatives, vitamins and their derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, panthenol and its derivatives, niacinamide and its derivatives, and their mixtures. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the anti-aging active ingredient is retinol and/or one of its derivatives, preferably in an active ingredient content ranging from 0.1% to 0.7% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is an oil-in-water emulsion. Cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to one of the preceding claims. Cosmetic use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, preferably for moisturizing and/or for reducing the appearance and/or attenuating the signs of aging of keratin materials, in particular of the skin.