FR3147710A1 - Composition comprising at least one liquid fatty acid, babassu oil, at least one alkaline agent and at least one oxidation dye. - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprising at least one liquid fatty acid, babassu oil, at least one alkaline agent and at least one oxidation dye. The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one liquid fatty acid, babassu oil, at least one alkaline agent and at least one oxidation dye.

Description

Composition comprising at least one liquid fatty acid, babassu oil, at least one alkaline agent and at least one oxidation dye.

The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one liquid fatty acid, babassu oil, at least one alkaline agent and at least one oxidation dye.

The invention also relates to a process for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair, using this composition.

The invention finally relates to the use of such a composition for coloring keratin fibers, and in particular hair.

For a long time, many people have been looking to change the color of their hair, and in particular to hide their gray hair.

It is known to dye keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, to obtain so-called permanent colourings with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, in particular oxidation bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones or pyrazolo-pyridines. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds which, combined with oxidising products, can give rise to coloured compounds by an oxidative condensation process.

It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with couplers or color modifiers. The variety of molecules used in the oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colors to be obtained.

However, the implementation of these dye compositions can present a certain number of drawbacks.

Indeed, after application to keratin fibres, the tinctorial power obtained may not be entirely satisfactory, or even weak, and lead to a restricted range of colours.

The colors may also not be sufficiently resistant to external agents such as light, shampoos, perspiration and may also be too selective, meaning that the color difference is too great along the same keratin fiber which is differently sensitized between its tip and its root.

Furthermore, regulatory conditions on certain compounds are increasingly strict. It is therefore necessary to develop compositions including alternative compounds.

Consumers are also looking for more environmentally friendly colouring products, particularly those based on ingredients of natural origin, and which have good qualities of use, are easy to use and lead to good tinctorial properties.

The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern in helping to meet global challenges.

It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions to meet these environmental challenges.

Thus, there is a real need to provide a composition for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, which is more environmentally friendly and does not have the drawbacks mentioned above, i.e. which is capable of leading to good color build-up, intensity and chromaticity, while having low selectivity and good tenacity and which is capable of leading to good dyeing performance, even after a storage period, while having good qualities of use and retaining good sensory performance, in particular in terms of the shine of keratin fibers such as hair.

These and other aims are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a composition comprising:
- at least one liquid fatty acid;
- babassu oil;
- at least one alkaline agent;
- at least one oxidation dye.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a composition for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair.

The composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to produce chromatic, powerful, intense and not very selective colorations, that is to say, colorations which are homogeneous along the fiber. It also makes it possible to achieve different shades in a very wide range of colors. In addition, it allows a good rise in color.

This composition also provides particularly good coverage of depigmented keratin fibres, such as white hair.

Furthermore, the composition according to the invention has good qualities of use, in particular a creamy texture allowing rapid and easy mixing with an oxidizing composition if necessary, easy and homogeneous distribution over the entire hair. The composition according to the invention has good stability over time, in particular little change, or even no change, in its viscosity during storage.

The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to achieve good cosmeticity, particularly in terms of shine, a more natural feel, while preserving the integrity of the fiber.

The invention also relates to a kit comprising in a first compartment a composition as defined above and in a second compartment an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

By “ chemical oxidizing agent ” according to the invention is meant an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.

Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from … to …”.

Furthermore, the expression " at least one " used in this description is equivalent to the expression " one or more ".

Liquid fatty acid

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty acid.

By “fatty acids” is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated.

Preferably, the fatty acids present in the composition according to the invention comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the fatty acids comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the fatty acids comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, unsaturated alkyl chain comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

More preferably, the fatty acids according to the invention are chosen from compounds of structure R-C(O)OH in which R represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferentially from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 20 carbon atoms.

For the purposes of the present invention, the fatty acids present in the composition are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “liquid fatty acid” means a fatty acid having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

The liquid fatty acid(s) according to the invention may be chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably oleic acid.

Preferably, the liquid fatty acids present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from fatty acids comprising at least one carboxylic acid group and an unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the liquid fatty acids present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and their mixtures, more preferably oleic acid.

In a preferred embodiment, advantageously, the liquid fatty acid(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 15% by weight, even better still from 1 to 10% by weight, even better still from 1.5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least 0.5% by weight of one (or more) liquid fatty acid(s), preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition does not comprise a solid fatty acid.

Babassu oil

The composition according to the invention comprises babassu oil.

Babassu oil comes from the seeds of the Babassu palm tree, from the Orbignya family, native to South America. In order to extract the oil, the Babassu seeds are harvested, then shelled and put under a hydraulic press, or treated with organic solvents.

Babassu oil contains a mixture of fatty acid triglycerides such as lauric, myristic, palmitic and oleic acids.

We will preferably use babassu oil with the INCI name Orbignya oleifera seed oil.

Preferably, the total babassu oil content varies from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10%, better still from 2 to 6% by weight, even better still from 2.5 to 4% relative to the total weight of the composition.

Alkaline agent

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one alkaline, mineral, organic or hybrid agent.

For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “ alkaline agent ” or “ alkalinizing agent ” are used interchangeably.

The mineral alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonia, alkaline carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

The organic alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3 diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.

By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched _C1 - _C8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.

Particularly suitable for carrying out the invention are organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C ₁ -C ₄ .

In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline.

The organic amine may also be chosen from heterocyclic organic amines. In addition to histidine already mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides which may be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. As amines of this type other than arginine which may be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.)

As hybrid compounds, guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride can be used in particular.

The alkaline agent(s) useful according to the invention is (are) preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium metasilicate and their mixtures, more preferably from alkanolamines and ammonia, better still from alkalonamines, even better still, monoethanolamine.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of ammonia.

The total content of the alkaline agent(s) preferably varies from 0.1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, better still from 2 to 25% by weight, even better still from 4 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of alkanolamine, preferably monoethanolamine, preferably varies from 0.1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, better still from 2 to 25% by weight, even better still from 4 to 20% by weight, or even from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the pH of the composition is between 8 and 13; preferably between 9 and 12.

The pH of the composition can be adjusted to the desired value using acidic or alkaline agent(s) usually used in dyeing keratin fibers such as those described above, or even using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.

Oxidation dye

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation dye(s).

The oxidation dyes can be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally associated with one or more couplers.

Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) comprise one or more oxidation bases.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.

Oxidation base

Oxidation bases may be present as salts, solvates and/or salt solvates.

The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

Furthermore, the solvates of the oxidation bases more particularly represent the hydrates of said oxidation bases and/or the association of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₄ alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

For example, the oxidation bases are selected from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, solvates, solvates of the salts and mixtures thereof.

Examples of para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned include para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(ß-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-1-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and the addition salts, solvates and/or solvates of their salts.

Among the above-mentioned para-phenylenediamines, particularly preferred are para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine , 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and/or solvates of the salts.

Examples of bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines which may be mentioned include N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane and the corresponding addition salts, solvates, solvates of salts and their mixtures.

Examples of the para-aminophenols mentioned include para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(β-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol and the addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

Among the ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned are, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

Among the heterocyclic bases that can be mentioned are, for example, pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.

Among the pyridine derivatives which may be mentioned are the compounds for example described in GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

Other pyridine oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples which may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-β-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-1-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

More particularly, the oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are chosen from the 3 aminopyrazolo-[1,5 a]-pyridines and preferably substituted on the carbon atom 2 by:
a) a (di)(C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino, imidazolium group;
(b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing 5 to 7 members and 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally cationic, optionally substituted by one or more (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl groups, such as a di(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylpiperazinium group; or
(c) a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkoxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups such as a β-hydroxyalkoxy group and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

Among the pyrimidine derivatives which may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triamino-pyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts. 4,5-diamino-1-(β-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used.

A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a corresponding salt, solvate and/or salt solvate.

Pyrazole derivatives which may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H,6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one their salts, their solvates and/or solvates of their salts.

Preferably, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a corresponding salt, solvate and/or salt solvate will be used.

Preferably, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or 2-β-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine and/or a corresponding salt, solvate and/or salt solvate will be used as heterocyclic bases.

Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures; more preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures.

When the composition comprises at least one oxidation base, preferably, the oxidation base(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5%, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, when the composition comprises at least one oxidation base chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures, the latter is (are) present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5%, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.

Oxidation coupler

The oxidation dye(s) may also be chosen from one or more couplers, which may be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for coloring keratin fibers.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more couplers.

Among the couplers useful according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of their salts.

Examples include 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(ß-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(ß-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(ß-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(ß–hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts, solvates, solvates of salts and corresponding mixtures.

Preferably, the coupler(s) is(are) chosen from: 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, its addition salts, its solvates and/or the solvates of its salts, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, its addition salts, its solvates and/or the solvates of its salts, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, its addition salts, its solvates and/or the solvates of its salts and mixtures thereof.

In general, the addition salts of the couplers which can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

Furthermore, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and/or the association of these couplers with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.

When the composition comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of the coupler(s) present in the composition according to the invention varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When present, the total content of couplers selected from 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol as well as their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When present, the total content of the couplers chosen from 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, its addition salts, its solvates and/or the solvates of its salts as well as their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When present, the total content of the couplers chosen from hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, its addition salts, its solvates and/or the solvates of its salts as well as their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When present, the total content of the couplers chosen from 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, its addition salts, its solvates and/or the solvates of its salts as well as their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When present, the total content of the oxidation dyes preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Surfactants other than liquid fatty acids

The composition according to the present invention may comprise one (or more) surfactant(s) other than liquid fatty acids.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more surfactants other than liquid fatty acids.

These may be selected from anionic surfactants other than liquid fatty acids, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants and/or mixtures thereof.

The term “ anionic surfactant ” means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2-, SO3H, SO3-, OSO3H, OSO3-, H2PO3, HPO3-, PO32-, H2PO2, HPO2-, PO22-, POH and PO-.

As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-alkyl(C1-C4)-N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside-uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acids; and the corresponding unsalified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) generally having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.

These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be selected from C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates.

When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Preferably, salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are used, particularly sodium or magnesium salts.

Any anionic surfactants present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. without sulfate function.

As regards mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters.

In particular, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids can be used, such as lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 EO) marketed for example under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.

The nonionic surfactant(s) which can be used in the composition of the present invention are notably described for example in “Handbook of Surfactants” by M.R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.

Examples of nonionic surfactants include the following compounds, alone or in mixtures:
- oxyalkylenated alkyl( _C8 - _C24 )phenols;
- _C8 to _C40 alcohols, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains;
- _C8 to _C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated;
- esters of _C8 to _C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;
- esters of _C8 to _C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated;
- esters of fatty acids and sucrose,
- alkyl( _C8 - _C30 )(poly)glucosides, alkenyl( _C8 - _C30 )(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl( _C8 - _C30 )(poly)glucoside esters,
- oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not;
- ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide condensates;
- derivatives of N -alkyl( _C8 - _C30 )glucamine and N- acyl( _C8 - _C30 )-methylglucamine;
- amine oxides.

They are chosen, in particular, from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₂₀ )phenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30.

Condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols may also be mentioned; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of _C8 - _C30 fatty acid, preferably _C12 - _C22 , and of sorbitan may be chosen from:
Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.

The esters (in particular mono, di, triesters) of C ₈ -C ₃₀ (preferably C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ ) fatty acids and of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide may be chosen from esters of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl, stearic acid, of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, such as:
polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-21),
polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-20),
polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-40),
polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-60),
polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-61),
polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-80),
polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 EO) (POLYSORBATE-81),
polyoxyethylene sorbitan tristearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-65),
polyoxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-85).

The polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular mono, di, tri, tetra esters) of C ₈ -C ₃₀ (preferably C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ ) fatty acids and of sorbitan, having in particular from 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide, may be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters having in particular from 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide, such as: of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl, stearic acid, of sorbitan, such as:
- 20 EO polyoxyethylene ester of sorbitan and cocoic acid (PEG-20 Sorbitan Cocoate)
- polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular having from 2 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and isostearic acid (such as PEG-2 Sorbitan Isostearate; PEG-5 Sorbitan Isostearate; PEG-20 Sorbitan Isostearate such as the product marketed under the name Nikkol TI 10 V by the company Nikkol),
- polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular having from 2 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and lauric acid (such as PEG-10 Sorbitan Laurate),
- polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular having from 2 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and oleic acid with 10 oxyethylenated groups (such as PEG-6 Sorbitan Oleate; PEG-20 Sorbitan Oleate),
- polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular having from 3 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and stearic acid (such as PEG-3 Sorbitan Stearate; PEG-4 Sorbitan Stearate; PEG-6 Sorbitan Stea-rate).

The nonionic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated _C8 - _C30 sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, ( _C6 - _C24 alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof, better still from ( _C6 - _C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, even better still from ( _C6 - _C24 alkyl)polyglycosides such as: coco glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside.

The cationic surfactant(s) that can be used in the composition according to the invention are generally chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty amines generally comprise at least one _C8 - _C30 hydrocarbon chain. Among the fatty amines which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of stearyl amidopropyl dimethylamine and distearylamine.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts include, for example:

- those meeting the general formula (X) next:
(X)
in which the groups R₈to R₁₁, which may be the same or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R₈to R₁₁comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
Aliphatic groups are for example chosen from C1-C30 alkyl groups, C1-C30 alkoxy groups₁-C₃₀, polyoxyalkylene (C₂-C₆), C alkylamide₁-C₃₀, alkyl(C₁₂-C₂₂)amidoalkyl(C₂-C₆), alkyl(C₁₂-C₂₂)acetate, and C hydroxyalkyl₁-C₃₀,X ^- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(C₁-C₄)sulfates, alkyl(C₁-C₄)- or alkyl(C₁-C₄)aryl-sulfonates.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X), on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium chlorides are preferred, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or, finally, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium chloride marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of the following formula ( XI ):
(XI)
in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, X ^- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )sulfates, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )aryl-sulfonates.
Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

- di- or triquaternary ammonium salts, in particular of the following formula ( XII ):
( XII )
in which R16 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, R17a, R18a, R18 , R19 , R20 and R21 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )sulfates, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )arylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as, for example, those of the following formula ( XIII ):
( XIII )
in which: R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and _C1 - _C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is selected from: the –C(O)R26 group, the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated _C1 - _C22 hydrocarbon groups R27, the hydrogen atom; R25 is selected from: the –C(O)R28 group, the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29, the hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated _C7 - _C21 hydrocarbon groups; r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; r1 and t1, identical or different, are 0 or 1; r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer with a value from 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers with a value from 0 to 10, X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29.
The alkyl groups R22 can be linear or branched and more particularly linear.
Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.
When R23 is a hydrocarbon R27 group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from _C11 - _C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from _C11 - _C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
Preferably, x and z, whether identical or different, are 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )sulfate, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )aryl-sulfonate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ester-functional ammonium may be used.
The anion X- is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
More particularly, the ammonium salts of formula (XIII) are used in the composition according to the invention, in which: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: the group –C(O)R26, the methyl, ethyl or _C14 - _C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: the group –C(O)R28, the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from the _C13 - _C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from the _C13 - _C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.
Among the compounds of formula (XIII), mention may be made, for example, of salts, in particular diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are, for example, marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.
The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.
It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.
Alternatively, behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride can be used, for example, offered by the KAO company under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the surfactant(s) other than the liquid fatty acids are chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferentially from ethoxylated _C8 - _C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated _C8 - _C30 sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, ( _C6 - _C24 alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the surfactant(s) other than the liquid fatty acids are chosen from ( _C6 - _C24 alkyl)polyglycosides and their mixtures, even better from cetearyl glucoside, coco-glucoside and their mixtures.

When the composition comprises one or more surfactants other than liquid fatty acids, preferably, the total content of surfactant(s) other than liquid fatty acids in the composition preferably varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 8% by weight, even better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition comprises one or more surfactants other than the liquid fatty acids chosen from (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides, preferably, the total content of (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides in the composition preferably varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 8% by weight, even better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fatty substances other than fatty acids and babassu oil

The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and babassu oil.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids and babassu oil.

By " fatty substance " is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as for example chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), vaseline oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The fatty substances other than fatty acids and babassu oil which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

Preferably, the fatty substances other than fatty acids and babassu oil useful according to the invention are non-silicone.

The term “non-silicone fat” means a fat containing no Si-O bonds and the term “silicone fat” means a fat containing at least one Si-O bond.

The fatty substances useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and/or solid fatty substances. Liquid fatty substance means a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa) and solid fatty substance means a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “MDSC 2920” by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).

More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) may be chosen from _C6 to _C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of plant or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that alcohols and fatty esters more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

As regards the liquid C ₆ to C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. As an example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or vaseline oils (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and their mixtures.

As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, we can cite perhydrosqualene.

The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil (shea olein), and mixtures thereof.

With regard to fluorinated oils, these may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names “FLUTEC® PC1” and “FLUTEC® PC3” by the Company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the Company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by the Company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF 5052®” by the Company 3M.

The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Oleyl alcohol will preferably be used.

As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C ₁ to C ₂₆ or branched in C ₃ to C ₂₆ and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear in C ₁ to C ₂₆ or branched in C ₃ to C ₂₆ , the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for monohydric alcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or the acid is branched.

Monoesters include dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as 2-octyldodecyl isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Also useful are esters of _C4 - _C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and _C1 - _C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C2- _C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or _pentahydroxy alcohols.

Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of C ₆ to C ₃₀ fatty acids, preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ . It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described above.

Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C ₆ to C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

The esters can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate.

More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

An example is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty substances other than fatty acids and babassu oil are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters and their mixtures, more preferably from liquid fatty alcohols, vegetable oils and their mixtures, better still from liquid fatty alcohols.

Preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids and babassu oil are chosen from liquid fatty alcohols, in particular oleic alcohol.

Solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.

The solid fatty body(ies) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.

By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen from, alone or in a mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and their mixtures, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, their mixtures, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

The solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C ₉ -C ₂₆ carboxylic fatty acid and/or C ₉ -C ₂₆ fatty alcohol.

Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

It is also possible to use esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ di- or tricarboxylic acids and C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C ₂ -C ₂₆ di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols.

Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, dioctyl, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C ₉ -C ₂₆ alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates; C ₉ -C ₂₆ alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C ₉ -C ₂₆ alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point greater than approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. Generally speaking, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or diffuse light, giving the composition comprising them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, especially of organic origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

We can also cite microcrystalline waxes in _C20 to _C60 , such as Microwax HW.

We can also mention the PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8 to C32. Among these, mention may be made in particular of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated copra oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol can also be used, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

As wax, it is also possible to use a C ₂₀ to C ₄₀ alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is sold in particular under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; we can cite in particular carnauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.

The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, vaseline wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may be made in particular of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification.

Ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R³CH(OH)CH(CH₂GOLD²)(NHCOR¹), in which:
R ¹ denotes an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C fatty acids₁₄-C₃₀, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in C₁₆-C₃₀;
R ² denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
R ³ denotes a C hydrocarbon group₁₅-C₂₆, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted by one or more C alkyl groups.₁-C₁₄; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C alpha-hydroxyalkyl group₁₅-C₂₆, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid at C₁₆-C₃₀.

More particularly preferred ceramides are compounds for whichR1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C fatty acids₁₆-C₂₂;R ² denotes a hydrogen atom andR ³ denotes a saturated linear group in C₁₅.

Preferably, ceramides are used for which R ¹ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C ₁₄ -C ₃₀ fatty acids; R ² denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R ³ denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2) ₁₂ -CH3 group.

Compounds for whichR ¹ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C fatty acids₁₂-C₂₂;R ² denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical andR ³ denotes a C hydrocarbon radical₁₂-C₂₂, saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2) group₁₂-CH3.

Particularly preferred compounds include 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3,4 triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.

The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols and their mixtures, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

Butters can also be used.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “butter” (also called “pasty fat”) means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting start temperature greater than 25°C and an end melting temperature less than 60°C.

Preferably the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002/14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

We can cite more particularly shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter ( Butyrospermum parkii ), Galam butter ( Butyrospermum parkii ), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow) ( Shorea stenoptera ), Shorea butter, Illipé butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia , mowrah butter ( Madhuca Latifolia ), Katiau butter ( Madhuca mottleyana ), Phulwara butter ( M. butyracea ), mango butter ( Mangifera indica ) , Murumuru butter ( Astrocaryum murumuru ), Kokum butter ( Garcinia Indica ), Ucuuba butter ( Virola sebifera ), Tucuma butter, Painya butter (Kpangnan) ( Pentadesma butyracea ), coffee butter ( Coffea arabica ), apricot butter ( Prunus Armeniaca ), macadamia butter ( Macadamia Ternifolia ), grapeseed butter ( Vitis vinifera ), avocado butter ( Persea gratissima ), olive butter ( Olea europaea ), sweet almond butter ( Prunus amygdalus dulcis ) and cocoa butter sunflower butter.

Shea butter is an example of a favorite butter.

Shea butter is commonly known as the nut of the Butyrospemim Parkii tree. Each nut contains between 45 and 55% fat, which is then extracted and refined.

According to another preferred embodiment, the fatty substances other than fatty acids and babassu oil useful according to the invention are chosen from solid fatty substances, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols.

The total content of the fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids and babassu oil preferably varies from 5 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 8 to 30% by weight, and better still from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty substances other than fatty acids and babassu oil, the total content of the solid fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids preferably varying from 5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 8 to 25% by weight, and better still from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances other than fatty acids and babassu oil, the total content of the liquid fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids preferably varying from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and better still from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty substances other than fatty acids and other than babassu oil, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, and one or more liquid fatty substances other than fatty acids and babassu oil, preferably chosen from liquid fatty alcohols.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty substance derived from shea, preferably chosen from shea butter, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

In another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances derived from shea butter other than fatty acids and babassu oil, the total content of the fatty substance(s) derived from shea butter preferably varies from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and better still from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thickening polymers

The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise at least one thickening polymer, preferably chosen from polysaccharides, more preferably from anionic polysaccharides.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more thickening polymer(s), preferably chosen from polysaccharides, more preferably from anionic polysaccharides.

By " polysaccharides " is meant polymers which have at least 11 monosaccharide units. Preferably, the polysaccharides of the invention have between 20 and 100,000 monosaccharide units.

The anionic polysaccharides according to the invention comprise one or more anionic or anionizable groups, and do not comprise a cationic or cationizable group.

The anionic polysaccharides useful according to the invention can be chosen from those derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate.

Anionic polysaccharides can be natural or synthetic.

According to a preferred embodiment, the anionic polysaccharides useful in the composition according to the invention are chosen from native gums such as:
• exudates of trees or shrubs including: gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); gum ghatti (polymer of arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); gum karaya (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);
• gums derived from algae such as: alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate);
• microbial gums such as: xanthan gums (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); gellan gums (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “ microbial gums ” means substances synthesized by fermentation of sugars by microorganisms.

According to a preferred embodiment, the anionic polysaccharides useful in the composition according to the invention are chosen from anionic gums, better still, from anionic microbial gums, more preferentially from xanthan gums .

When present, the total content of thickening polymers preferably varies from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When present, the total content of anionic polysaccharides as defined above preferably varies from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition comprises them, the total content of anionic microbial gums as defined above preferably varies from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Sequestrants

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one sequestering (or chelating) agent.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one sequestering agent.

The definition of a “sequestering agent” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestering or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a cycle including the metal ion).

A sequestering (or chelating) agent generally comprises at least two electron donor atoms which allow the formation of bonds with the metal ion.

In the context of the present invention, the sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts and derivatives.

Salts include alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.

Examples of carboxylic acid chelating agents include diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from OCTEL, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and its salts such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), glycinamide- N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N-N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenyl acetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl N,N diacetic acid and glyceryl imino diacetic acid (as described in EP-A-317,542 and EP-A-399,133), iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516,102), beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509,382), iminodisuccinic acid chelators (IDSA) (as described in EP-A-509,382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid such as the compound marketed by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel.

Examples of mono- or polyphosphonic acid-based chelators include the following compounds: diethylenetriamine-penta (methylene phosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethan-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1 diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.

Examples of polyphosphoric acid-based chelators include the following compounds: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphophoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.

According to one embodiment, the sequestering agent(s) useful according to the invention are phosphorus sequestering agents, i.e. sequestering agents which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.

The phosphorus sequestering agent(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from:

- inorganic phosphorus derivatives preferably chosen from phosphates and pyrophosphates of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, preferably of alkali metals such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and polyphosphates of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, preferably of alkali metals, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof;

- organic phosphorus derivatives, such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and/or its alkali or alkaline earth metal salts such as tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) is (are) chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms covalently linked together by at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and/or at least one carbon atom.

The phosphorus sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) is (are) chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also called tetrasodium pyrophosphate).

The phosphorus sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) is (are) chosen from etidronic acid (also called 1-hydroxyethane 1,1-diphosphonic acid) and/or its alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, preferably alkali metal salts such as tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.

Thus, preferably, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and/or its alkali metal salts, and a mixture of these compounds.

Particularly preferably, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate and a mixture of these compounds.

According to the present invention, the sequestering agents are preferably chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and their mixtures.

More preferably, the sequestering agent(s) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and their mixtures.

Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular the sodium or potassium salts.

When the composition comprises one or more sequestrants, the total content of the sequestrant(s) preferably varies from 0.001 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

- at least one liquid fatty acid, chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably oleic acid, the total content of liquid fatty acid(s) preferably being greater than 0.5%;
- babassu oil;
- at least one oxidation dye;
- at least one alkaline agent, preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferably from alkanolamines and ammonia, better still from alkalonamines;
- at least one surfactant other than liquid fatty acids, preferably chosen from ( _C6 - _C24 alkyl)polyglycosides and their mixtures, better chosen from coco-glucoside, cetearyl glucoside and their mixtures;
- at least one fatty substance other than fatty acids and babassu oil, preferably at least one liquid fatty substance and at least one solid fatty substance;
- at least one thickening polymer, preferably chosen from polysaccharides, more preferably from anionic polysaccharides, better still from anionic microbial gums;
- at least one sequestrant, preferably chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and their mixtures.
Solvents

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic solvent.

As organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched C ₂ to C ₄ alkanols, such as ethanol, propanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen from polyols, more preferably chosen from glycerol, propane-1,3-diol and their mixtures.

The organic solvent(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 1 to 25% by weight, better still from 2 to 20% by weight, even better still from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the composition according to the invention is preferably an aqueous composition. Preferably, the composition comprises water in an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably the water content in the composition ranges from 15 to 80% by weight, preferably from 30 to 70% by weight, better still from 40 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds previously described and among which we can cite cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers or their mixtures different from the thickening polymers as described previously, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and/or regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sun filters, mineral or organic pigments, direct dyes, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidant agents, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more additives.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition(s) envisaged.

The above additives may generally be present in an amount for each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise chemical oxidizing agents. The composition may be intended to be mixed with an oxidizing composition.

Process

The present invention also relates to a process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, which comprises the application to said keratin fibers of an effective amount of a composition as defined above.

The composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. At the end of the treatment, the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is mixed at the time of use with a composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

According to this preferred embodiment, at the time of use, the composition according to the invention is derived from the mixture of at least two compositions:
a coloring composition comprising:
- at least liquid fatty acid;
- babassu oil;
- at least one alkaline agent;
- at least one oxidation dye and
an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

Preferably, the method according to the invention comprises a step of mixing the composition according to the invention with an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent. This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the hair.

According to this preferred embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the invention comprises the step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture, at the time of use, of at least two compositions:
(a) a coloring composition comprising:
- at least one liquid fatty acid;
- babassu oil;
- at least one alkaline agent;
- at least one oxidation dye and
b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

In a preferred embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the invention comprises the step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture, at the time of use, of at least two compositions:
(a) a coloring composition comprising:
- at least one liquid fatty acid;
- babassu oil;
- at least one alkaline agent;
- at least one oxidation dye;
- at least one surfactant different from liquid fatty acids;
- at least one fatty substance other than fatty acids and babassu oil;
- at least one thickening polymer and
b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

The oxidizing composition comprises one (or more) chemical oxidizing agent(s).

More particularly, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors and alkali or alkaline-earth metal percarbonates and their mixtures. Preferably, the oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide.

The oxidizing composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

It may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed above; the latter representing more particularly, when present, from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition, and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight of the oxidizing composition.

The oxidizing composition also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.

In addition, the oxidizing composition may comprise fatty substances other than fatty acids and babassu oil such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, surfactants, polymers.

Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when aqueous, is less than 7.

Preferably, the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which varies, more particularly, from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly between 0.5 and 20%, and even more preferably between 1 and 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.

Preferably, at least one of the compositions (coloring or oxidizing) is aqueous.

Kit

Another subject of the invention is a device with several compartments, preferably two compartments, for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing the coloring composition according to the invention and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition as described above.

The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by appropriate application means, identical or different, such as brushes, brushes or sponges.

The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture to the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.

The present invention finally relates to the use of a composition as described above for coloring keratin fibers, and in particular hair.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

Examples

In the following examples, all quantities are given as a percentage by mass of active ingredient (AI) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated).

Compositions

The coloring compositions A1 , A2 were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (% active matter):

Coloring compositions

A1 (invention) A2 (comparative) XANTHAN GUM 0.2 0.2 OLEIC ACID 2.70 - PALMITIC ACID - 1.2 STEARIC ACID - 1.4 MYRISTIC ACID - 0.1 ETHANOLAMINE 6.25 6.25 COCO-GLUCOSIDE 1.87 1.87 SHEA OLEIN 4.0 4.0 HYDROXYBENZOMORPHOLINE 0.30 0.30 PROPANEDIOL 5.0 5.0 ASCORBIC ACID 0.25 0.25 GLYCERIN 5.0 5.0 TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE 0.24 0.24 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 16.30 16.30 OLEYL ALCOHOL 2.70 2.70 SODIUM METABISULFITE 0.71 0.71 BABASSU OIL 3.0 3.0 HYDROXYETHYL-P-PHENYLENEDIAMINE SULFATE 0.30 0.30 WATER Qs 100 Qs 100

Oxidizing composition

O TRIDECETH-2 CARBOXAMIDE MEA 0.850 TETRASODIUM ETIDRONATE 0.06 SODIUM SALICYLATE 0.035 GLYCERIN 0.5 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 2.28 CETEARETH-25 0.57 PHOSPHORIC ACID Qs pH = 2.2 +/- 0.2 HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 6 TETRASODIUM PYROPHOSPHATE 0.04 WATER Qs 100

At the time of use, each of the coloring compositions A1 and A2 is mixed with 1 ½ times its weight of oxidant O. Each of the mixtures is then applied to a lock of 90% permed white (BP) and natural white (BN) hair at a rate of 5g of mixture / g of hair.

After 20 minutes of application on a thermostatically controlled plate at 27°C, the hair is rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and dried.

Results

Colorimetric measurements were performed using a KONICA MINOLTA-3600 spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.

Color selectivity is the variation in color between natural hair and permed hair. Natural hair is representative of the nature of the hair at the roots while permed hair is representative of the nature of the hair at the ends.

Selectivity is measured by:

ΔE, which is the color variation between natural hair and permed hair, is obtained from the formula:

Where L* represents the intensity a* and b*, the chromaticity of natural colored hair and L0* represents the intensity and a0* and b0* the chromaticity of permed colored hair. The lower the value of ΔE, the lower the selectivity and the more uniform the coloring along the hair.

Hair type L* has* b* ΔE A1 + O (invention) BN 48.36 4.51 17.98 7.19 BP 42.14 5.82 21.33 A2 + O (comparative) BN 51.76 3.89 16.81 10.29 BP 42.33 5.76 20.47

The hair strands treated with the A1+O mixture according to the invention have a lower ΔE value than those treated with the comparative A2+O mixture. In other words, the A1+O mixture according to the invention makes it possible to obtain hair strands exhibiting better selectivity compared to those treated with the comparative A2+O mixture.

The composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain more uniform coloring along the fiber and shiny hair.

Claims (22)

Composition comprising:
(a) at least one liquid fatty acid;
b) babassu oil;
(c) at least one alkaline agent;
(d) at least one oxidation dye. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the liquid fatty acid(s) is (or are) chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, and their mixtures, more preferably, the liquid fatty acid is oleic acid. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of liquid fatty acid(s) varies from 0.01 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 15% by weight, even better still from 1 to 10% by weight, even better still from 1.5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of babassu oil varies from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10%, better still from 2 to 6% by weight, even better still from 2.5 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkaline agent(s) is (or are) chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferably from ammonia and alkanolamines, better still from alkanolamines, better still monoethanolamine. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of alkaline agent varies from 0.1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, better still from 2 to 25% by weight, even better still from 4 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oxidation dye(s) is (or are) chosen from oxidation bases, preferably chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures; more preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oxidation dye(s) is (or are) chosen from couplers, preferably chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2,4-diamino-1-(ß-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-ß-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1-hydroxy-3 aminobenzene, their addition salts, their salts and/or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures, more preferably from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, its addition salts, its solvates and/or the solvates of its salts. salts, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, its addition salts, its solvates and/or the solvates of its salts, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, its addition salts, its solvates and/or the solvates of its salts and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of the oxidizing dye(s) ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one surfactant other than liquid fatty acids, the surfactant(s) other than liquid fatty acids preferably being chosen from anionic surfactants other than liquid fatty acids, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from ethoxylated _C8 - _C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated _C8 - _C30 sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, ( _C6 - _C24 alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof, better still chosen from ( _C6 - _C24 alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof, better still chosen from coco-glucoside, cetearyl glucoside and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of the surfactant(s) other than the liquid fatty acids varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 8% by weight, even better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one liquid fatty substance other than liquid fatty acids and babassu oil, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, and their mixtures, more preferably from liquid fatty alcohols, vegetable oils and their mixtures, better still from liquid fatty alcohols, in particular oleic alcohol. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one solid fatty substance other than liquid fatty acids and babassu oil, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and their mixtures, preferentially from solid fatty alcohols and their mixtures, in particular chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one compound derived from shea, preferably chosen from shea butter, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of the fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids and babassu oil varies from 5 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 8 to 30% by weight, and better still from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one thickening polymer, preferably chosen from polysaccharides, more preferably from anionic polysaccharides, better still from anionic microbial gums, more preferably from xanthan gums. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one organic solvent chosen from linear or branched C2 to C4 alkanols, such as ethanol, propanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof, preferably, the organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen from polyols, more preferably chosen from glycerol, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one sequestering agent, preferably chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and their mixtures, more preferably from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide. Process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the application to said fibers of the composition as defined in claims 1 to 19. Process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the composition defined according to claim 19 is derived from the mixture of at least two compositions:
(a) a composition comprising:
- at least one liquid fatty acid;
- babassu oil;
- at least one alkaline agent;
- at least one oxidation dye.
b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide. Multi-compartment device, preferably two compartments, for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 18 and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.