FR3146409A1 - PECTIN-BASED FIRMING SYSTEM FOR ANTI-AGING SKINCARE AND MAKEUP - Google Patents

Abstract

PECTIN-BASED FIRMING SYSTEM FOR SKIN CARE AND ANTI-AGING MAKEUP A cosmetic composition includes a firming system that includes: a pectin; at least one powder; water; at least one fatty compound; and at least one plasticizer. The firming system when spreadable and upon drying forms a firming film that exhibits cohesion and adhesion when applied to a substrate. The pectin may include low-methoxylated pectin, and the firming system may further include at least one monosaccharide, disaccharide, or combination thereof. The composition may include a cosmetic carrier system wherein the firming system and the cosmetic carrier system are in the form of a liquid or cream emulsion or an oil-free serum for application to the skin to improve signs of aging or a liquid viscous emulsion or suspension for application as a makeup to keratinous tissue selected from skin, eyelashes and hair to impart firmness to the keratinous tissue. Figure for abstract: none

Description

PECTIN-BASED FIRMING SYSTEM FOR ANTI-AGING SKINCARE AND MAKEUP TECHNOLOGICAL AREA

The present disclosure relates to compositions imparting firming and tightening properties to substrates, particularly skin and hair.

CONTEXT

Film-forming polymer film technology is widely used in makeups such as mascara, nail polish and lipstick, as well as in hair care and skin care for substrate bonding, deposition and retention, and tightening efficacy. Used for applications that include anti-aging, wrinkle smoothing and filling, puffiness reduction, lifting and tightening, film-forming polymers and technology have proven indispensable to consumers, and are primarily leveraged to provide short-term, immediately perceived benefits while leveraging the use of anti-aging bioactives to achieve longer-term benefits.

Film-forming polymers in skin cosmetics, both water- and oil-based, have long been dominated by synthetic cross-linked polymers or copolymers. Despite increasing consumer expectations for natural, biodegradable, and sustainable products, natural biopolymers (e.g., polysaccharides, proteins) suffer from inherently inferior mechanical properties and have therefore not offered robust solutions for use as film-forming materials in anti-aging products.

The inventors aim to incorporate natural ingredients into film-forming applications to address what is lacking in the art. As disclosed herein, the natural film-forming technology is applicable to anti-aging skin care applications that can benefit the face and other parts of a consumer's skin, and also provides a platform for use in hair care and makeup applications.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

This summary is provided to present a selection of concepts in a simplified form that are described more fully below in the detailed description of the invention. This summary is not intended to identify key features of the claimed subject matter or to be used as an aid in determining the scope of the claimed subject matter.

In one aspect, the present disclosure provides a cosmetic composition, comprising:

a firming system that includes:

a pectin;

at least one powder;

water; and

at least one plasticizer,

wherein the firming system is spreadable and wherein, upon drying, the firming system forms a firming film that exhibits cohesion and adhesion when applied to a substrate.

In some embodiments, the pectin comprises low methoxylated pectin, and the firming system further includes at least one monosaccharide, disaccharide, or combination thereof and preferably a polymeric thickener in accordance with the disclosure to provide a texture that is substantially improved when used in place of a metal salt such as a calcium salt.

In some embodiments, the composition may expressly include at least one metal salt. In some embodiments, the composition may expressly include one or more metal salts selected from magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, a manganese salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, manganese gluconate, manganese sulfate, manganese chloride, a copper salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, copper gluconate, copper sulfate, copper chloride, a zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, zinc gluconate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, or combinations thereof.

In some embodiments, the composition expressly excludes metal salts. In some embodiments, the composition expressly excludes or is substantially free of one or more metal salts selected from magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, a manganese salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, manganese gluconate, manganese sulfate, manganese chloride, a copper salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, copper gluconate, copper sulfate, copper chloride, a zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, zinc gluconate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, or combinations thereof.

In some embodiments, the low methoxylated pectin has a molecular weight of about 10 kDa to about 1000 kDa.

In some embodiments, the amount of pectin present in the composition is at a concentration of about 0.5% to about 10.0%.

In some embodiments, the one or more powders comprise one or more of silica or silicates or combinations thereof, which may be in dry powder form prior to addition to the composition, or in a liquid suspension or solution.

In some embodiments, the powder is in the form of silica particles, including silica nano or microparticles, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, alumina, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or a combination thereof.

In some embodiments, the at least one powder is present in the composition from about 0.1% to about 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of a serum or gel that is substantially oil-free.

In some embodiments, the composition comprises at least one fatty compound. In some embodiments, the composition is in the form of an emulsion and comprises at least one fatty compound.

In some embodiments, the fatty compound comprises one or more vegetable butters, the one or more vegetable butters selected from the group consisting of Butyrospermum Parkii (shea) butter, Astrocaryum Murumuru seed butter, Theobroma Cacao (cocoa) seed butter, almond butter, aloe butter, apricot kernel butter, avocado butter, coconut cream butter, cupuacu butter, dhupu butter, hemp butter, jojoba butter, kokum butter, macadamia nut butter, mango butter, and combinations thereof.

In some embodiments, the fatty compound includes one or more vegetable butters wherein the total amount of vegetable butter present in the composition has a concentration of about 2% to about 9%, by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

In some embodiments, the fatty compound includes one or more emollient oils present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.5% to about 6%, by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

In some embodiments, the fatty compound includes one or more waxes selected from the group consisting of Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) wax, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, and combinations thereof.

In some embodiments, the fatty compound includes one or more waxes, wherein the total amount of wax is present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.05% to about 5%, by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

In some embodiments, the composition comprises glycerin as a plasticizer.

In some embodiments, the amount of each plasticizer is present in the composition at a concentration of about 2% to about 10%, by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

In some embodiments, the fatty compound and the plasticizer are present in a fatty compound to plasticizer ratio of about 1:1.

In some embodiments, the composition includes at least one metal salt selected from calcium chloride, a manganese salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, manganese gluconate, manganese sulfate, manganese chloride, a copper salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, copper gluconate, copper sulfate, copper chloride, a zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, zinc gluconate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, or combinations thereof.

In some particular embodiments, the metal salt is calcium chloride.

In some embodiments, the amount of the at least one metal salt is present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.01% to about 1%, by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

In some embodiments, water in the composition is present from about 5% to about 75%, and the composition has a pH in a range of about 4.0 to about 8.5.

In some embodiments, the composition comprises one or more surfactants selected from sorbitan isostearate, polysorbate 60, stearic acid, cetearyl alcohol, polysorbate 20, glyceryl stearate (and) peg-100 stearate, cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20, glyceryl stearate, sorbitan stearate, or combinations thereof.

In some particular embodiments, the composition includes a surfactant blend comprising sorbitan isostearate and polysorbate 60.

In some embodiments, the total amount of surfactant present in the composition is at a concentration of about 0.01% to about 20%, by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

In some embodiments, the composition includes at least one cosmetically acceptable polymer, wherein the at least one polymer has a glass transition ( _Tg ) that is in the range of about -70°C to about -30°C, wherein, for example, polyethylhexyl acrylate has a _Tg that is about -70°C, polyurethane (polyether polyol/MDI) has a _Tg that is about -30°C, and silicone has a _Tg that is about -90°C, the polymer being present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.4% to about 3%, by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

In some particular embodiments, the composition includes a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

In some embodiments, the composition is provided in liquid form, for example, as a lotion or cream. In some embodiments, the composition is provided as a makeup such as a foundation or mascara.

In another aspect, the present disclosure provides a cosmetic composition, comprising:

a firming system that includes:

0.5 to 10% pectin;

at least one powder comprising about 0.1 to about 10% of silica particles selected from nanoparticles and microparticles;

water;

at least one fatty compound comprising from about 4% to about 8% vegetable butters; and

at least one plasticizer;

in which all quantities are by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

wherein the firming system is spreadable and wherein, upon drying, the firming system forms a firming film that exhibits cohesion and adhesion when applied to a substrate.

In another aspect, the present disclosure provides a cosmetic system, comprising:

an applicator; and

a firming system that includes:

pectin;

at least one powder;

water; and

at least one plasticizer; and

a cosmetic vector system for a cosmetic product selected from the group consisting of an anti-aging skin treatment and a makeup,

wherein the firming system is spreadable and wherein, upon drying, the firming system forms a firming film that exhibits cohesion and adhesion when applied to a substrate.

In some embodiments, the applicator may be selected from a roller surface of a roller applicator, a bristle surface of a brush, a sprayer, a pad, or a spatula.

In some embodiments, the composition is contained within the applicator. In some embodiments, the cosmetic system includes a container in which the composition is contained separately from the applicator.

In some embodiments, the firming system and the cosmetic carrier system are in the form of a liquid or cream type emulsion or serum for application to the skin to reduce signs of aging.

In some embodiments, the firming system and the cosmetic carrier system are in the form of a viscous liquid emulsion or suspension for application as a makeup to keratinous tissue selected from skin, eyelashes and hair to impart firmness to the keratinous tissue.

In some embodiments, the composition further comprises at least one fatty compound.

Other features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following more detailed description, taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings which illustrate, by way of example, the principles of the invention.

The present disclosure describes exemplary embodiments in accordance with the general inventive concepts and is not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any manner. Indeed, the invention as described in the specification is broader than and not limited by the exemplary embodiments set forth herein, and the terms used herein have their full ordinary meanings.

This application contains at least one drawing executed in colour. Copies of this patent or patent application publication with colour drawing(s) will be provided by the Office upon request and payment of the necessary fees.

The features and advantages of the general inventive concepts will become apparent from the following detailed description given with reference to the accompanying drawings.

There demonstrates a postulated interaction between pectin and silica in film formation according to the disclosure.

There demonstrates a postulated molecular interaction between pectin and silica to form a hybrid organic/inorganic film network.

There demonstrates in vivo test results of film properties, in accordance with one embodiment of the disclosure.

There demonstrates additional in vitro film property test results, in accordance with one embodiment of the disclosure.

There demonstrates additional in vitro film property testing results, in accordance with one embodiment of the disclosure.

There demonstrates additional in vitro film property testing results, in accordance with one embodiment of the disclosure.

Aspects and many related advantages of the disclosed subject matter will be more readily appreciated as they are better understood by reference to the following detailed description, when taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.

The detailed description set forth above in connection with the accompanying drawings, where like numbers refer to like elements, is intended to be a description of various embodiments of the subject matter disclosed and is not intended to represent the only embodiments. Each embodiment described in this disclosure is provided merely as examples or illustrations and is not to be construed as preferred or advantageous over other embodiments. The illustrative examples provided herein are not intended to be exhaustive nor to limit the disclosure to the exact forms disclosed.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Film-forming polymers in water-based or oil-based skin cosmetics have long been dominated by synthetic cross-linked polymers or copolymers. In recent years, the industry has seen an increasing demand for film-forming products containing natural substances in a more environmentally friendly and sustainable manner. The present invention involves a firming system that is a natural polysaccharide pectin, which is a water-soluble fiber abundant in the cell walls of fruits and vegetables, particularly citrus fruits, apples and beets.

An entirely new biopolymer or polysaccharide pectin film-forming technology has been developed by the inventors, who have demonstrated, in an exemplified skin care formulation, the immediate and long-lasting appearance benefits of wrinkle smoothing, anti-puffiness and anti-dark circles due to the superb firming and lifting effect of the film. In various embodiments, a composition is provided that includes a firming system comprising pectin, at least one powder, at least one fatty compound, a plasticizer and water.

According to the invention, the pectin is used in combination with a powder, in some particular examples selected from silica or silicates or combinations thereof, which may be in the form of a dry powder before addition to the composition, or in a suspension or liquid solution, including silica particles which may be on the micro or nanoscale or silicates, or other powders selected from sodium silicate, potassium silicate, alumina, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or a combination thereof, whereby the molecular weight and acetylation ratio of the selected pectin, in some embodiments, the low methoxylated pectin, provide good solubility in water without gelling as other polysaccharides typically do, allowing associations between the pectin and the powder in the liquid state and allowing more crosslinking between the pectin and the powder after drying of the film.

The inventors have discovered that the composition including the firming system according to the disclosure unexpectedly provides a firming film in which it is postulated that the interaction between the pectin and the powder, e.g. silica, forms hydrogen bonds which result in a film and not a gel, where the film is firm enough to tighten and firm a substrate such as skin and is pliable and resistant to cracking and flaking, as shown in and the . The firming system is particularly useful for firming and tightening lines and bags on the skin and can therefore be used anywhere on the body where bags and lines or fine lines need to be reduced. Exemplary embodiments have been applied to the skin around the eyes to effectively eliminate lines or fine lines and bags almost immediately after application and for at least 7 hours. The composition comprising the firming system can be easily removed using water or a cleanser.

Additional ingredients, including glycerin, emollient oils, thickening polymers and, optionally, wax, hyaluronic acid and other actives in a water-based system, as employed in exemplified compositions, demonstrate superb instantly visible and long-lasting tightening and firming performance to provide perceived anti-aging benefits and are easily washable for removal. The primary components of polysaccharide pectin and natural silica particles also exhibit moisturizing and mattifying effects.

In various embodiments that include at least one fatty compound, the ratio of emollient oil to glycerin affects the cohesion and adhesion, elasticity and compliance of the film after drying on the skin and provides balanced benefits of efficacy, user comfort and durability.

Now, with reference to the exemplified embodiments that include the use of pectin with silica or silicate, for example silica particles, including silica nanoparticles or microparticles or silicates, or other powders selected from sodium silicate, potassium silicate, alumina, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or a combination thereof, without wishing to theorize, the inventors postulate that the use of inorganic silica particles as a physical crosslinker, through various inter- and intramolecular interactions between the silanol (-Si-OH) groups on the silica surface and the abundant carboxyl (-COOH), carboxylate (-COO), and hydroxyl (-OH) groups on the side chains of the linear pectin molecules creates a hybrid film network that possesses both organic and inorganic attributes, contributing to superb properties (adhesion, cohesion) of the resulting firming film. These postulated intermolecular and intramolecular interactions, including hydrogen bonds between the linear acidic polysaccharide equipped with abundant carboxyl (-COOH), carboxylate (-COO) and hydroxyl (OH) groups and the surface functional groups of silanol (-Si-OH) on the silica particles (in the case of a combination of pectin with silicates, the silica particles are formed in situ via hydration and condensation processes after mixing of silicates with the acidic pectin molecules), a strong continuous three-dimensional organic/inorganic network is able to form.

The composition provides the firming system that forms in the liquid state a physical bond between the pectin and the powder which, upon drying under ambient conditions (standard humidity and pressure and temperature ranges of approximately 15°C to 25°C (59°F to 77°F), forms a hybrid film with exceptional properties. The resulting film is flexible for comfort and resists flaking, delamination, cracking, lifting and bubbling.

In accordance with the various embodiments, a composition including the firming system of the disclosure may be in a form including a suspension, lotion, cream, serum, gel, stick, spray, ointment, paste, mousse, cream, wipe, patch, or strip. And the product may be a skin treatment or makeup such as, but not limited to, foundation or mascara.

Composition Pectin

In accordance with the various embodiments, the composition includes pectin. In various embodiments, the pectin may be selected from low methoxylated pectin and high methoxylated pectin, or a combination thereof. In some embodiments, the pectin is low methoxylated pectin.

Pectin is a natural polysaccharide found in many plants, is economical, abundantly sourced, 100% natural, biodegradable and sustainable.

Highly methoxylated pectins contain more than 50% polygalacturonic acid units, while lowly methoxylated pectins generally contain less than 50% polygalacturonic acid units. Highly methoxylated pectins are known to gel in the presence of at least 60% sugar, by weight of the pectin and sugar combination, and at pH 2.6-3.4; lowly methoxylated pectins are known to require the presence of polyvalent metal ions to gel, such as calcium, magnesium, and aluminum plasma at pH 2-7, and lowly methoxylated pectins are synergistic with locust bean gum.

In accordance with the present invention, the inventors have unexpectedly prepared compositions in which the use of pectin with a polymer, e.g., pectin-SiO ₂ , provides superior hydrogen bonds for film formation compared to the Ca++ -pectin interaction.

In some embodiments, the pectin comprises low methoxylated pectin and sucrose. In some embodiments, the low methoxylated pectin has a molecular weight of about 10 kDa to 1,000 kDa.

In the various embodiments, the amount of each or a combination of the pectin in the composition may range from about 0.5% to about 10.0%, by weight, from about 1.0% to about 9.0%, from about 2.0% to about 8.0%, or from about 3.0% to about 7.0%, or from about 5.0% to about 6.0%, or any combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values by weight, based on the total weight of the skin treatment composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

Thus, the pectin, in some embodiments the low methoxylated pectin, is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, from about 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 3.0, 4.0, 5.0, 6.0, 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, to about 10.0 weight percent, including increments and ranges therebetween.

Powder

According to the disclosure, one or more powders are present in the composition.

As used herein, the term “powder” means and includes materials in a dry powder state, and materials in a liquid state in suspension or solution, such as, but not limited to, sodium silicate solution.

According to the invention, the powder is selected from silica or silicates or combinations thereof, which may be in the form of a dry powder before addition to the composition, or in suspension or liquid solution, including silica particles which may be at the micro or nanometric scale or silicates, or other powders selected from sodium silicate, potassium silicate, alumina, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or a combination thereof.

In some embodiments, the one or more powders comprise one or more of silica or silicates or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the powder is in the form of silica particles, including silica nanoparticles or microparticles or silicates, or other powders selected from sodium silicate, potassium silicate, alumina, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or a combination thereof. In some particular embodiments, the powder is in the form of silica microparticles. In other particular embodiments, the powder is a silicate, such as sodium silicate, potassium silicate, or a combination thereof.

The one or more powders may be selected from silica and silicates, for example, silica microparticles, hydrated silica, silica alumina, silica silylate, silica (and) methicone, silica (and) dimethicone, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, chemically modified magnesium aluminum silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, strontium silicate, or combinations thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the one or more powders may be chosen from spherical microparticles of porous silica having an average particle size of 0.5 to 20 μm whose INCI name is silica sold by the company JCG Catalysts and Chemicals under the name Spheron L-1500.

In some embodiments, the composition excludes hydrophobic aerogel.

Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles useful according to embodiments of the disclosure include silylated silica aerogel particles (INCI name: silica silylate). The preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface modified by silylation is more fully described in U.S. Patent No. 7,470,725. In some embodiments, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface modified with trimethylsilyl groups may be selected. For example, the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260® by the Dow Corning company, whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g, or the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270®, also by the Dow Corning company, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g, may be chosen. In some embodiments, aerogels sold by Cabot Company as Aerogel TLD 201®, Aerogel OGD 201®, and Aerogel TLD 203®, CAB-O-SIL TS-530, CAB-O-SIL TS-610, CAB-O-SIL TS-720, Enova Aerogel MT 1100®, and Enova Aerogel MT 1200®, may be selected.

The at least one powder is present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.01% to about 25%, and in some embodiments, about 0.05% to about 20%, or about 0.1% to about 10%, or about 1% to about 5.0%, or about 2% to about 4%, or about 3%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof, by weight, based on the weight of the composition. However, a person of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention. In some embodiments, the composition includes more than one powder, each powder being present in an amount as set forth above, wherein each different powder may be present in one of the ranges selected from the ranges set forth above.

Thus, each of the at least one powder, or a combination thereof, may be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 3.0, 4.0, 5.0, 6.0, 7.0, 8.0, 9.0, 10.0, 11.0, 12.0, 13.0, 14.0, 15.0, 16.0, 17.0, 18.0, 19.0, 20.0, 21.0, 22.0, 23.0, 24.0 to about 25.0 weight percent, including intermediate increments and ranges.

Fat compound

According to the disclosure, one or more fatty compounds may be present in the composition. The fatty compounds include one or more non-silicone oils of animal, vegetable, animal or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters of a fatty acid and/or a fatty alcohol, non-silicone waxes and silicone oils.

In some embodiments, the composition includes one or more vegetable butters, the one or more vegetable butters selected from the group consisting of Butyrospermum Parkii (shea) butter, Astrocaryum Murumuru seed butter, Theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter, almond butter, aloe butter, apricot kernel butter, avocado butter, coconut cream butter, cupuacu butter, dhupu butter, hemp butter, jojoba butter, kokum butter, macadamia nut butter, mango butter, and combinations thereof.

In the various embodiments, the amount of vegetable butter present in the composition may be about 1%, or from about 1% to about 15%, or from about 2% to about 9%, or from about 2.5% to about 8%, or from about 3% to about 5%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values by weight, based on the weight of the composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

In some embodiments, the at least one butter has a melting point in the range of about 30 to about 45 degrees Celsius.

Thus, any one or a combination of vegetable butters may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the moisturizing scrub cream, from about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13,14, to about 15% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.

In some embodiments, the compositions include one or more emollient oils. In accordance with the various embodiments, non-limiting examples of emollient oils include octyldodecanol, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil, dicapryl carbonate, squalane, dimethicone, and behenyl alcohol.

In accordance with certain embodiments, the amount of an emollient oil present in the compositions may range from about 0.5% to about 6%, or from about 0.5% to about 3%, or from about 1% to about 1.5%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values by weight, based on the weight of the composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

In accordance with certain embodiments, the composition comprises one or more emollient oils. In accordance with the various embodiments, the amount of combined emollient oil present in the compositions may range from about 5% to about 20%, or from about 5% to about 15%, or from about 5% to about 10%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values by weight, based on the weight of the composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

Thus, an emollient oil in the composition may be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of about 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3.0, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 4.0, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4, 4.8, 4.9, 5.0, 5.0, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3, 5.4, 5.5, 5.6, 5.7, 5.8, 5.9 up to about 6.0 percent, inclusive of increments and ranges therein. And in combination, the emollient oils in the composition may be present by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, to about 20 percent, inclusive of increments and ranges therein.

More generally, according to the various embodiments, the composition includes any one or a combination of cosmetic oils. In some embodiments, the oil is generally immiscible in water.

The oil may be selected from silicones, hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, glycols, and vegetable oils. The oil may include a polar or non-polar oil or a combination thereof. In some embodiments, the oil may be selected from hydrocarbon-based oils of plant or vegetable origin, mineral oil, ester oils, fatty alcohols containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, fatty acids containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, and combinations thereof.

Silicone oils

The term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil comprising mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon-based oil may be a hydrocarbon-based animal oil, a hydrocarbon-based vegetable oil, a hydrocarbon-based mineral oil or a hydrocarbon-based synthetic oil. In addition, a suitable oil may be a hydrocarbon-based mineral oil, a hydrocarbon-based vegetable oil or a hydrocarbon-based synthetic oil.

The composition may include one or more silicone oils. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and steaoxytrimethylsilane. In some cases, the composition includes dimethicone and, optionally, additional oils, including additional silicone oils. Typically, the one or more silicone oils are a non-volatile silicone oil. In some embodiments, the silicone oil is polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.

Further examples of silicone oils which may be mentioned include linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 x 106 m2/s) and containing in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils which may be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

Fluorinated oils

The composition may include one or more fluorinated oils. For example, the one or more fluorinated oils may be selected from the group consisting of perfluoromethylcyclopentane, perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, dodecafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, bromoperfluorooctyl, nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoroethoxyisobutane, and 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine. Volatile fluorinated oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, and dodecafluoropentane, may also be used.

Hydrocarbon based oils

1. des huiles à base d'hydrocarbures d'origine végétale, telles que des triesters de glycérides, qui sont généralement des triesters d’acides gras et de glycérol, dont les acides gras peuvent avoir des longueurs de chaîne variées de C4 à C24, ces chaînes pouvant être saturées ou insaturées et linéaires ou ramifiées ; ces huiles sont en particulier l’huile de germe de blé, l’huile de tournesol, l’huile de graines de raisin, l’huile de sésame, l’huile de maïs, l’huile d’abricot, l’huile de ricin, l’huile de karité, l’huile d’avocat, l’huile d’olive, l’huile de soja, l’huile d’amande douce, l’huile de palme, l’huile de colza, l’huile de graines de coton, l’huile de noisette, l’huile de macadamia, l’huile de jojoba, l’huile de luzerne, l’huile de pavot, l’huile de pépins de citrouille, l’huile de graines de courge, l’huile de cassis, l’huile d’onagre, l’huile de millet, l’huile d’orge, l’huile de quinoa, l’huile de seigle, l’huile de carthame, l’huile de bancoul, l’huile de passiflore et l’huile de rosier musqué.
2. des éthers synthétiques contenant de 10 à 40 atomes de carbone ;
3. des hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés d’origine minérale ou synthétique, tels que la gelée de pétrole, les polydécènes, le polyisobutène hydrogéné tel que Parleam® et squalane 40 ;
4. des esters synthétiques, par exemple des huiles de formule RCOOR' dans lesquelles R représente un résidu d’acide gras linéaire ou ramifié contenant de 1 à 40 atomes de carbone et R' représente une chaîne à base d’hydrocarbures qui est en particulier ramifiée, contenant de 1 à 40 atomes de carbone à condition que R + R' soit égal à ÿ 10, par exemple, l'huile de Purcellin (octanoate de cétéaryle), le myristate d’isopropyle, le palmitate d’isopropyle, le benzoate d’alkyle en C12-C15, tel que le produit vendu sous le nom commercial Finsolv TN® ou Witconol TN® par Witco ou Tegosoft TN® par Evonik Goldschmidt, le benzoate de 2-éthylphényle, tel que le produit commercial vendu sous le nom X-Tend 226 par ISP, le lanolate d’isopropyle, le laurate d’hexyle, l'adipate de diisopropyle, l'isononanoate d'isononyle, l'érucate d'oléyle, le palmitate de 2-éthylhexyle, l'isostéarate d'isostéaryle, le sébacate de diisopropyle, tel que le produit vendu sous le nom « Dub Dis » par Stéarinerie Dubois les octanoates, les décanoates ou ricinoléates d’alcools ou polyalcools, tels que le dioctanoate de propylène glycol ; les esters hydroxylés, tels que le lactate d'isostéaryle ou le malate de diisostéaryle ; et les esters de pentaérythritol ; les citrates ou les tartrates, tels que les tartrates de di(alkyle en C12-C13 linéaire),tels que ceux vendus sous le nom Cosmacol ETI® par Enichem Augusta Industriale, ainsi que les tartrates de di(alkyle en C14-C15 linéaire), tels que ceux vendus sous le nom Cosmacol ETL® par la même société ; ou les acétates ;
5. des alcools gras qui sont liquides à température ambiante, contenant une chaîne carbonée ramifiée et/ou insaturée contenant de 12 à 26 atomes de carbone, par exemple l'octyldodécanol, l'alcool isostéarylique, l'alcool oléylique, le 2-hexyldécanol, le 2-butyloctanol et le 2-undécylpentadécanol ;
6. des acides gras supérieurs, tels que l’acide oléique, l’acide linoléique ou l’acide linolénique ;
7. des carbonates, tels que le carbonate de dicaprylyle, tel que le produit vendu sous le nom Cetiol CC(TM) par Cognis ;
8. des amides gras, tels que le N-lauroyl sarcosinate d’isopropyle, tel que le produit vendu sous le nom commercial Eldew SL 205(TM) d’Ajinomoto ; et
9. des huiles essentielles choisies dans le groupe constitué d’huile de tournesol, huile de sésame, huile de menthe poivrée, huile de noix de macadamia, huile de théier, huile d’onagre, huile de sauge, huile de romarin, huile de coriandre, huile de thym, huile de baies de piment, huile de rose, huile d’anis, huile balsamique, huile de bergamote, huile de bois de rose, huile de cèdre, huile de camomille, huile de sauge, huile de sauge sclarée, huile de girofle, huile de cyprès, huile d’eucalyptus, huile de fenouil, huile de fenouil marin, huile d'oliban, huile de géranium, huile de gingembre, huile de pamplemousse, huile de jasmin, huile de genièvre, huile de lavande, huile de citron, l’huile de citronnelle, huile de citron vert, huile de mandarine, huile de marjolaine, huile de myrrhe, huile de néroli, huile d’orange, huile de patchouli, huile de poivre, huile de poivre noir, huile de petitgrain, huile de pin, huile de rose otto, huile de romarin, huile de bois de santal, huile de menthe verte, huile de nard, huile de vétiver, huile de gaulthérie du Canada et ylang ylang.

The composition may include one or more hydrocarbon-based oils. For example, the hydrocarbon-based oil may be a saturated hydrocarbon, an unsaturated hydrocarbon, lipids, triglycerides, a natural oil, and/or a synthetic oil. In some embodiments, the composition may include a synthetic oil selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated polyisobutene and hydrogenated polydecene. A hydrocarbon-based oil may be a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, such as:

1. hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, these chains being able to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; These oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, bancoul oil, passionflower oil and rosehip oil.
2. synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
3. linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® and squalane 40;
4. synthetic esters, for example oils of the formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain which is in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is equal to ÿ 10, for example, Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl laurate hexyl, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by Stearinerie Dubois octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as di(C12-C13 linear alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by Enichem Augusta Industriale, as well as di(C14-C15 linear alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company; or acetates;
5. fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol;
6. higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;
7. carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC(TM) by Cognis;
8. fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205(TM) from Ajinomoto; and
9. essential oils selected from the group consisting of sunflower oil, sesame oil, peppermint oil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, sage oil, rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, pimento berry oil, rose oil, anise oil, balsamic oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedarwood oil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrh oil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepper oil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, spearmint oil, nard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil and ylang ylang.

Hydrocarbon-based oils may be glyceride triesters and in particular caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular isononyl isonanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol. As volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of hydrocarbon oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C16 esters and isohexyl neopentanoate.

In some embodiments, the composition may include one or more oils as described above, and oils that may be selected from a branched or linear liquid alkane with a carbon chain length of C11 to C20. In various embodiments, the liquid alkanes may be selected from those having a carbon chain length of C11 to C20. The liquid alkanes may be selected from those having a carbon chain length of C11 to C20, or C15 to C19, or one of C11, C12, C13, C14, C15, C16, C17, C18, and C19. In some embodiments, suitable liquid alkanes that may be used according to the disclosure include hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes.

In some embodiments, the composition may include one or more oils selected from polar emollients selected from esters, triglycerides, ethers, carbonates, alcohols, oils, butters, fatty acids, and combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the polar emollients may be selected from those having a molecular weight of 400 g/mol or less. More generally, the polar emollient may have a molecular weight in the range of about 50 g/mol% to about 350 g/mol.

In some embodiments, the composition may comprise polar emollients which include those derived from C12-C50 fatty acids, preferably C16-C22 saturated fatty acids and monohydric alcohols. In some embodiments, these esters may be selected from isopropyl myristate, methyl palmitate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl laurate, ethylhexyl oleate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, myristyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl caprate/caprylate (or octyl caprate/caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the fatty compound includes, but is not limited to: 1) C6-C19 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal, vegetable, animal or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, non-silicone waxes and silicones; 2) hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; 3) fluorinated oils, for example perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold as FLUTEC® PC1 and FLUTEC® PC3 by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetrafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name FORALKYL® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M. 4) linear and branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol. In certain particular embodiments, a composition according to the disclosure includes one or more of mineral oil, hemisqualane, dimethicone, squalane, castor oil, isohexadecane and coconut oil.

In some embodiments, the at least one fatty compound describes an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). In some embodiments, the at least one fatty compound has a water solubility of less than 5%. In some embodiments, the at least one fatty compound has a water solubility of less than 1%. In some embodiments, the at least one fatty compound has a water solubility of less than 0.1%. Although these fatty compounds are exemplary, it will be appreciated that other compounds compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art may be used.

In some embodiments, an oil may be selected from squalane, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), hemisqualane, isononyl isonanoate, a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isodecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate and 2-diethylhexyl succinate, cocoglyceride, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicapryl maleate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, octyl stearate, isostearyl linoleate, lanolin oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter, olive oil, avocado oil, aloe vera extracts, jojoba oil, castor oil, a fatty acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, fatty alcohol, cetyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, diisopropyl adipate, hydroxybenzoate esters, benzoic acid esters of C9 to C15 alcohols, alkanes, mineral oil, silicone, dimethyl polysiloxane, ether, polyoxypropylene butyl ether, polyoxypropylene cetyl ether, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoate, arylalkyl benzoate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, and all combinations thereof. In some embodiments, an oil may be selected from isopropyl myristate, dicaprylyl ether, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, isononyl isonanoate, isopropyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, coco caprylate/caprate, diisopropyl adipate, isohexadecane, C15-19 alkane, isododecane, undecane, tridecane, dodecane, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, silicone oils, synthetic and petroleum-based oils, and combinations thereof are excluded. In some embodiments, the composition excludes mineral oil, silicone oil, petroleum-based oil, or a combination thereof.

In the various embodiments, the oil may be present from about 0.01% to about 20%. A person of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

In some embodiments, the composition may include at least one wax. In some particular embodiments, the at least one wax is selected from the group consisting of Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) wax, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, and combinations thereof.

In some embodiments, the amount of wax, when present in the composition, may be from about 0.05% to about 5%, or from about 0.05% to about 1%, or 0.1% or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values by weight, based on the weight of the composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

In the various embodiments, the amount of fatty compound in the composition may range from about 0.01% to about 40%, or from about 0.5% to about 30%, or from about 1% to about 25%, or from about 2% to about 15%, or from about 3% to about 5%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values by weight, based on the weight of the composition. However, a person of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention. In some embodiments, two or more fatty compounds are present. And, in some embodiments, one or more fatty compounds are present, at least one of which is an oxidation-resistant fatty compound.

Thus, any of the fatty compounds, or a combination thereof, if present, may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, to approximately 60 weights, including intermediate increments and ranges.

Plasticizers

According to the disclosure, one or more plasticizers are present in the composition.

Generally, plasticizers tend to modify the mechanical properties of a composition by reducing the glass transition temperature (Tg) and increasing the softness and flexibility of the films. In some embodiments, suitable plasticizers have a boiling point measured at ambient pressure of less than or equal to 285°C, in some embodiments less than or equal to 270°C, and in some embodiments less than or equal to 250°C. In this specification, boiling point values should be considered accurate to ±2°C due to uncertainties in boiling point measurement. Useful plasticizers include glycerin, lecithin, polysorbates, dimethicone copolyol, glycols, citrate esters, dimethicone, and other similar ingredients disclosed in the International Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients and Handbook Vol. 4 (9th ed. 2002), in particular the plasticizers disclosed on page 2927.

In some embodiments, the composition comprises glycerin as a plasticizer.

Examples of suitable plasticizers include, but are not limited to, glycols and their ester derivatives, esters of acids, particularly carboxylic acids, such as citrates, adipates, carbonates, tartrates, phosphates or sebacates, oxyethylenated derivatives, such as oxyethylenated oils, and mixtures thereof. For example, suitable plasticizing agents include, but are not limited to, glycerin, diisobutyl adipate, 2,2,4-trimethylpentane-1,3-diol teributyl ester, diethyl adipate, diethyl phthalate, dibutyl phthalate, dioctyl phthalate, 2-ethylhexyl butyl phthalate, dimethyl sebacate, dibutyl sebacate, ethyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, dipropylene glycol n-butyl ether, tributyl phosphate, tributoxyethyl phosphate, tricresyl phosphate, triphenyl phosphate, glyceryl triacetate, butyl stearate, butyl glycolate, benzoate, butyl, butyl acetyltricinoleate, glyceryl acetyltricinoleate, dibutyl phthalate, diisobutyl phthalate, dioctyl phthalate, dimethoxyethyl phthalate, diamyl phthalate, triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, tributyl acetylcitrate, tri(2-ethylhexyl) acetylcitrate, dibutyl tartrate, camphor, ethyl tosylamide and mixtures thereof.

In the various embodiments, the amount of each plasticizer may range from about 0.1% to about 35%, or from about 0.5% to about 25%, or from about 1% to about 20%, or from about 2% to about 10%, or about 5% or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values by weight, based on the weight of the cleaning composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

Thus, each plasticizer or combination thereof is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, from about 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34 to about 35% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.

Metal salt

In some embodiments, the composition expressly excludes metal salts. In some embodiments, the composition expressly excludes or is substantially free of one or more metal salts selected from calcium chloride, a manganese salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, manganese gluconate, manganese sulfate, manganese chloride, a copper salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, copper gluconate, copper sulfate, copper chloride, a zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, zinc gluconate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, or combinations thereof.

In accordance with the various embodiments, the composition includes at least one metal salt. Suitable metal salts include, but are not limited to, calcium chloride, a manganese salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, manganese gluconate, manganese sulfate, manganese chloride, a copper salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid salt, copper gluconate, copper sulfate, copper chloride, a zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, zinc gluconate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, or combinations thereof.

In some particular embodiments, the metal salt is calcium chloride.

In accordance with the various embodiments, the amount of the at least one metal salt present in the composition may range from about 0.01% to about 1%, or from about 0.02% to about 0.5%, or from about 0.025% to about 0.1%, or from about 0.03% to about 0.05%, or about 0.035%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values by weight, based on the weight of the skin treatment composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

Thus, any of the metal salts may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, from about 0.01, 0.015, 0.02, 0.025, 0.03, 0.035, 0.04, 0.045, 0.05, 0.055, 0.06, 0.056, 0.07, 0.075, 0.08, 0.085, 0.09, 0.095, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, up to about 1.0 weight, inclusive of intermediate increments and ranges.

Surfactant

In accordance with the various embodiments, the composition may include one or more surfactants.

In some embodiments, the one or more surfactants are selected from low HLB and high HLB nonionic surfactants. In some embodiments, the one or more surfactants are sorbitol-based nonionic surfactants.

In some embodiments, the one or more surfactants are selected from sorbitan isostearate, polysorbate 60, stearic acid, cetearyl alcohol, polysorbate 20, glyceryl stearate (and) peg-100 stearate, cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20, glyceryl stearate, sorbitan stearate, and combinations thereof.

In some particular embodiments, the composition includes a surfactant mixture comprising sorbitan isostearate and polysorbate 60. In some exemplary embodiments, the composition includes a surfactant mixture comprising sorbitan isostearate (present at ~0.0275%) and polysorbate 60 (present at ~0.0275%).

In the various embodiments, the amount of surfactant present in the composition may be from about 0.01% to about 20%, or from about 0.05% to about 15%, or from about 0.4% to about 10%, or from about 0.5% to about 5%, or any combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values by weight, based on the weight of the composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

In some embodiments, the selected surfactants are sulfate-free. In some particular embodiments, the surfactant blend includes two or more surfactants that are sulfate-free. The term “sulfate-free” as used herein means that sulfate has not been added as a component. In some embodiments, a composition is sulfate-free. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that sulfate may be present in a composition via its presence in one or more of the formulation components; thus, in some embodiments, a composition may be “substantially sulfate-free” wherein sulfate is present at a concentration that does not exceed 5% by weight, and in some instances is present at no more than 3% by weight, and in some instances is present at no more than 1% by weight, based on the weight of the cleaning composition. Thus, the term “sulfate-free” means that the surfactant does not include sulfate. Some examples of excluded sulfate surfactants include one or more alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, their derivatives, or combinations thereof.

Thus, each of the surfactants, alone or in combination, is present, in an amount by weight, relative to the total weight of the foaming cleansing composition, of about 0.01, 0.015, 0.02, 0.025, 0.03, 0.035, 0.04, 0.045, 0.05, 0.055, 0.06, 0.056, 0.07, 0.075, 0.08, 0.085, 0.09, 0.095, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, at about 20% by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.

Polymers

In accordance with the disclosure, the composition may include at least one cosmetically acceptable polymer. In some embodiments, the polymer has a glass transition (T _g ) that is in the range of about -70°C to about -30°C. In particular, the composition may include at least one polymer suitable for assisting in emulsification of the composition in the presence of at least one emollient oil.

In some embodiments, wherein the composition lacks an emollient oil, such an oil-free system (e.g., serum or gel), the polymer may be excluded. In some particular embodiments, the composition includes a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, particularly when the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion as exemplified herein wherein an emollient oil is present. In some embodiments, the at least one cosmetically acceptable polymer is selected from the group consisting of natural and synthetic polymers, including crosslinked polymers, gums, taurate-based polymers, carbomers, polyacrylates, and combinations thereof.

In some embodiments, the at least one cosmetically acceptable polymer is selected from a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, an acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, a carbomer, an ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, an acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, an acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, an ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, a sodium polyacrylate, a polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, a sclerotium gum, a xanthan gum, a cellulose gum, a locust bean gum, a carrageenan, a gellan, a xanthan gum and derivatives thereof.

In some embodiments, any one or more of the cosmetically acceptable polymers is present in a range of from about 0.4% to about 3%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of the cosmetically acceptable polymer present in the composition is no greater than about 3%, by total weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of polymer is at least about 0.4%, at least about 0.5%, or at least about 0.6%, or at least about 0.8%, or at least about 1%, or at least about 1.2%, or at least about 1.5%.

In some embodiments, the total amount of cosmetically acceptable polymer in the composition is from about 0.3% to about 3%, or from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, or from about 0.5% to about 2%, or from about 0.6% to about 1.5%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values by weight, based on the weight of the composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

Thus, each polymer or combination of polymers in the composition is present by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, as disclosed below, of about 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, to about 3.0 wt. %, inclusive of intermediate increments and ranges.

Water

The compositions comprise from about 1% to about 80% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the amount of water in the composition may range from about 5% to about 75%, or from about 10% to about 70%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime blossom water, and/or natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-Bains or Avène water. The aqueous phase can also include reconstituted thermal water, i.e. water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of thermal water.

The pH of the composition, particularly of the aqueous phase of the composition, may be corrected prior to combining the oil phase with the aqueous phase to avoid the practical difficulty of measuring the pH in an internal aqueous phase of the water-in-oil emulsion. In various embodiments, the pH is a physiologically acceptable pH. In some embodiments, the pH of the aqueous phase prior to emulsification may be corrected with pH adjusters to a pH in the range of from about 5 to about 7 by the addition of a base (organic or inorganic) to the composition, for example sodium hydroxide, ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly)amine, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine, or alternatively by the addition of an inorganic or organic acid, preferably a carboxylic acid, such as, for example, citric acid.

Thus, water may be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or by about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, to about 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79 to about 80 weights, including intermediate increments and ranges.

Solvent

In accordance with the disclosure, one or more solvents may be present in the composition. The solvent present in the cosmetic composition, according to the disclosure, includes, but is not limited to, water, alcohol, propylene glycol, or combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the solvent includes only water. In other embodiments, the solvent includes water and one or more other solvents. Although these solvents are given as examples, it will be appreciated that other solvents compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art may be used. In certain particular embodiments, the solvents include water.

In some embodiments, the composition may include one or more water-soluble solvents. The term "water-soluble solvent" is interchangeable with the term "water-miscible solvent" and means a compound that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90% in water under these conditions. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerin, alcohols (e.g., C1-C30, C1-C15, C1-C10, or C1-C4 alcohols), polyols, glycols, and combinations thereof.

Examples of water-soluble solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, and glycerin. Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds. Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanols (polyhydric alcohols such as glycols and polyols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol acetate monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether and dipropylene glycol mono-isopropyl ether; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbitone, sorbitan, acetin, diacetin, triacetin, sulfolane, and combinations thereof.

In accordance with the various embodiments, the total amount of the at least one water-soluble solvent, if present, is from about 0.5% to about 70%, or from about 1% to about 60%, or from about 5% to about 50%, or from about 10% to about 40%, or from about 20% to about 30%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values by weight, based on the weight of the skin care composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

It will be appreciated by a skilled person that any solvents are present only to the extent and in amounts that do not materially adversely affect the fundamental and novel feature(s) of the claimed disclosure.

Thus, one or a combination of solvents may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of about 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, to approximately 70 weights, including intermediate increments and ranges.

Humectant

According to the disclosure, one or more humectants may be present in the composition. In some embodiments, the humectant may serve as a plasticizer. In some embodiments, the humectant may include one or more of glycerin, glycerol, glycols, such as caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, monoethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycol ethers such as C1-C4 alkyl ethers of monopropylene, dipropylene and tripropylene glycol, squalane, triacetin, sugars, such as glucose, xylitol, maltitol, sorbitol, sucrose, pentaerythritol, inositol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lactic acid, lithium chloride, acetamide MEA, sodium lactate, urea, dicyanamide, hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, honey, and algae extract.

In some particular embodiments, a composition according to the disclosure may include at least one humectant that is a sugar, for example a mono-, di- or saccharide, in some specific examples, a sugar selected from sucrose, lactose, maltose, glucose, fructose, dextrose, galactose, xylitol, maltitol, sorbitol, inositol or combinations thereof.

In the various embodiments, the amount of humectant present in the composition may range from about 1% to about 20%, or from about 1% to about 15%, or from about 1% to about 10%, or from about 5%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values by weight, based on the weight of the skin care composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

Thus, any humectant or combination thereof, if present, may be present, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, from about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20% by weight, inclusive of intermediate increments and ranges.

It will be appreciated by a skilled person that any humectants are present only to the extent and in amounts that do not materially adversely affect the fundamental and novel feature(s) of the claimed disclosure.

Optional components

In some embodiments, there may be one or more actives present in the cosmetic composition, according to the disclosure, the additive being selected from, for example, preservatives/antimicrobials (e.g., chlorphenesin, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, and caprylyl glycol); actives (e.g., hydroxyacetophenone); vitamins (e.g., vitamin A, beta-carotene, tocopherol/vitamin E, panthenol, retinol, resveratrol, vitamin C, niacinamide, derivatives thereof, and derivatives thereof); hyaluronic acid is in the form of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid. In some embodiments, the hyaluronic acid is in the form of sodium hyaluronate; colorants/pigments; essential oils; antioxidants (phenolic compounds, such as chalcones, flavones, flavanones, flavanols, flavonols, dihydroflavonols, isoflavonoids, neoflavonoids, catechins, anthocyanidins, tannins, lignans, aurones, stilbenoids, curcuminoids, alkylphenols, betacyanins, capsacinoids, hydroxybenzoketones, methoxyphenols, naphthoquinones and phenolic terpenes, resveratrol, curcumin, pinoresinol, ferulic acid, hydroxytyrosol, cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, p-coumaric acid, baicalin (Scutellaria Baicalensis root extract), pine bark extract (Pinaster bark/bud extract), ellagic acid); vitamins and vitamin derivatives, such as calcium pantothenate, tocopherol and ascorbic acid; hydroxy acids; citric acid, sodium citrate, sodium chloride; neutralizing, chelating or pH adjusting agents (e.g., triethylamine (TEA), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, EDTA and sodium hydroxide); powders, fragrances, dyes, pigments; organic or mineral UV filters; and combinations thereof.

In certain particular embodiments, a composition according to the disclosure may include one or more of sucrose, sodium hydroxide, citric acid, phenoxyethanol, tocopherol, escin, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, and combinations thereof.

In some exemplary embodiments, a composition according to the disclosure may include one or more of sucrose (present at ~1.4%), sodium hydroxide (present at ~1.0%), citric acid (present at ~0.00003%), phenoxyethanol (present at ~0.50%), tocopherol (present at ~0.0015%), escin (present at ~0.30%), dipotassium glycyrrhizate (present at ~0.30%), and combinations thereof.

Although the optional components are given as examples, it will be appreciated that other optional components compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art may be used.

In accordance with the various embodiments, the amount of one or more actives and additives, alone or in combination, when present in the composition according to the disclosure, may be present in a range of from about 0.0001% to about 20%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.005% to about 0.01%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.15% to about 5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.40% to about 4%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range or subrange thereof by weight, by weight or by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. A person of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate, however, that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

Thus, any one or a combination of actives and additives may be present, each or the combination being present from about 0.0001, 0.0005, 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0. 06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20 percent, by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.

The examples below according to the invention are given for illustration purposes and without limitation. The names are the chemical name or the INCI name. The quantities are given in % by weight, unless otherwise stated.

Manufacturing systems and articles

In accordance with the various embodiments, the composition may be provided in an applicator or in a separate package provided with an applicator to enable precise and controlled application to the skin other than by contacting the composition with the target skin with the fingers.

It will be appreciated that in the various packaging embodiments, the composition may be contained in an applicator container for application by a brush, roller ball, sprayer, pad, or other surface. In some embodiments, the composition may be packaged separately from the applicator in a tube, packet, bottle, or jar along with the applicator that is used at the time the composition is to be applied to keratinous tissue, at which time the composition is applied or dispensed into the applicator.

EXAMPLES

The examples below according to the invention are given for illustration purposes and are not limiting. The names are the chemical name or the INCI name. The compositions and systems as described in the present representative embodiments are selected from the commercially available materials included, as shown in the exemplary embodiments below.

Example 1: Raw materials

INGREDIENT/SOURCE MP ASSETS PERCENTAGE
(IF < 100 %) LM PECTIN
Commercial reference:
Unipectin 600 C SB;
Manufacturer:
Cargill 80% HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER
Commercial reference:
Sepinov EMT 10
Manufacturer:
SEPPIC 89% active

Raw materials

The inventive composition as exemplified herein includes the foregoing raw materials in which the active constituents of the raw materials are listed as separate ingredients; the amounts of active ingredients are given for the exemplified compositions as % by weight of the active ingredients relative to the weight of the entire composition, and not as amounts of raw materials unless expressly indicated.

Example 2: Inventive compositions and systems

An exemplary embodiment of the inventive composition is shown in Table 2.

INCI US INV 1 PECTIN 5 to 6 SILICA 2.5-3.5 GLYCERIN 4 to 6 CALCIUM CHLORIDE 0.025 - 0.04 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER 0.4 - 0.5 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER 2.5 - 3.5 ASTROCARYUM MURUMURU SEED BUTTER 2.5 - 3.5 SUCROSE 0.8-1.6 ACTIVE INGREDIENTS/OTHER ADDITIVES (TOCOPHEROL, ESCIN, DIPOTASSIUM GLYCYRRHIZATE, PHENOXYETHANOL, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, CITRIC ACID) ~2.1 SURFACTANTS (POLYSORBATE 60,
SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE) ~0.05-0.06 WATER QS

Inventive Composition

Example 3 : In vivo assessment of an H/W prototype including pectin/SiO ₂ on the face of a volunteer

An embodiment of the inventive composition according to the disclosure was evaluated in an oil and water formulation INV 1. The composition was applied to the face of the wearers and the firming effect on wrinkles and bags in the eye area was evaluated over a time interval from immediately before application to 7 hours post-application; the results are shown in Table 3 and in which features photographic images of a test subject demonstrating the in vivo evaluation of a prototype formulation including pectin/SiO ₂ . As shown by these results, the tested embodiment of the inventive composition demonstrates superb wrinkle smoothing, firming and long-lasting efficacy over a period of at least 7 hours.

Time relative to application Visible effect Comfort, aesthetics of the firming film Before Visible bags and fine lines under the eyes 10 min post-app. Removal of bags and fine lines Flexible without bending or pinching; without chipping or cracking 60 min post-app. Results after 10 minutes sustained Results after 10 minutes sustained 3 hours post-application. Results after 10 minutes sustained Results after 10 minutes sustained 5 hours post-application. Results after 10 minutes sustained Results after 10 minutes sustained 7 hours post-app. Results after 10 minutes sustained Results after 10 minutes sustained

In vivo test results

As demonstrated in the in vivo study, the inventive composition including the firming system provided in a direct oil-in-water emulsion, dispersion or emulsion gel format, demonstrated superb skin firming and anti-aging efficacy almost immediately with a long-lasting effect that was maintained for at least 7 hours post-application. The skin care composition including the firming system which comprises the novel combination of pectin and silica with emollient oil and plasticizer glycerin, ensures firming film cohesion after drying on the skin and desirable adhesion, elasticity and conformity to provide balanced benefits of efficacy for tightening the skin and reducing or eliminating wrinkles and puffiness with an immediate and long-lasting effect without compromising the comfort and aesthetics of the skin.

Example 4 : In vitro assessment of film cohesion/adhesion : mixture of pectin and polymer

An in vitro evaluation of different samples on a nitrile substrate was made for cohesion and adhesion, where, after drying the film, the results shown on the demonstrate the superb internal stress resulting from the combination of pectin and silica.

The experiment was conducted with test films arranged as shown in Table 4. The results are reflected in the .

Samples Aqueous dispersion of 5% w/w pectin and 2% w/w Na ₂ SiO ₃ Aqueous dispersion of 5% w/w pectin and 2% w/w SiO ₂ Aqueous dispersion of 5% w/w pectin Virgin substrate

In vitro tests of various combinations of pectin and polymer

Example 5 : In vitro assessment of film cohesion/adhesion : mixture of pectin and polymer

An in vitro evaluation of different samples on a nitrile substrate was made for cohesion and adhesion, where, after drying the film, the results shown on the demonstrate the superb internal stress and non-scaling properties resulting from the inventive combination of pectin and silica (prototypes 1, 2 and 3).

PROTOTYPE 1 Ingredient Concentration % Water/Aqua 72.4% Sodium hydroxide 1.1% Pectin 7% Silica 3% Sodium hyaluronate 0.5% Glycerin 8.5% Caprylyl Glycol 0.5% Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer 1.5% Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter/Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 2% Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter 3% Phenoxyethanol 0.5%

Inventive prototype 1

PROTOTYPE 2 Ingredient Concentration % Water/Aqua 74.9% Sodium hydroxide 1.1% Pectin 7% Silica 3% Sodium hyaluronate 0.5% Glycerin 6% Caprylyl Glycol 0.5% Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer 1.5% Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter/Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 2% Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter 3% Phenoxyethanol 0.5%

Inventive prototype 2

PROTOTYPE 3 Ingredient Concentration % Water/Aqua 73.9% Sodium hydroxide 1.1% Pectin 7% Silica 3% Sodium hyaluronate 0.5% Glycerin 6% Caprylyl Glycol 0.5% Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer 1.5% Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter/Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 3% Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter 3% Phenoxyethanol 0.5%

Inventive prototype 3

Comparative ingredients

Water/Aqua/Eau, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Silicate, Sodium Magnesium Fluorosilicate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Hydrolyzed Lupin Protein, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Seed Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbic Acid, Panthenol, Sodium Citrate, Carbomer, Foeniculum Vulgare (Beeswax) Seed Extract, Symphytum Officinale Leaf Extract, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Steareth-20, Carrageenan, Sodium Phytate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol,

The experiment was conducted with test films arranged as shown in Table 8. The results are reflected in the .

Prototype 1 Virgin Prototype 2 Virgin Prototype 3 Virgin Comparative Virgin

In vitro testing of various inventive prototypes against blank controls (water)

The inventive compositions were compared to a commercial reference, Peter Thomas Roth- Instant Eye Firming (TM), and to the control (no composition applied). Referring now to the , none of the blank samples exhibited any perceptible curling of the test strips. Each of the inventive and comparative tests demonstrated significant tightening and curling of approximately equal magnitude, however, the comparative exhibited flaking and bubble formation, demonstrating brittleness, poor film cohesion and poor adhesion to the substrate.

Example 6 : In vitro demonstration of shrinkage and peeling properties of various sample films on protein leather substrate

An in vitro evaluation of different samples on Supplare (Miyoshi) leather substrate was carried out for cohesion and adhesion, in which, after drying the film, the results shown on the demonstrate from left to right: bare substrate, substrate with a prototype film of formula 2 including pectin/SiO ₂ , substrate with film of Comparison and substrate with a common commercially available wrinkle smoothing facial cream. As clearly shown in the , test results show that the tightening system including pectin with one of silica microspheres and silicate produces films that provide tightening without significant flaking, peeling or bubbling, while the Comparative flakes and bubbles, exhibiting brittleness, poor film cohesion and poor adhesion to the substrate.

Although illustrative embodiments have been illustrated and described, it will be appreciated that various changes may be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

The term “cosmetically acceptable” means compatible with any keratinous substrate. For example, “cosmetically acceptable carrier” means a carrier compatible with any keratinous substrate.

The term “firming system” means and refers to the combination of pectin with powder, in some embodiments silica microspheres or silicates or both, to form a firming film that imparts tightening to a substrate. In some examples, particularly for cosmetic applications according to the disclosure, the substrate is a keratinous substrate such as skin or hair.

The term “firming film” refers to and refers to a film formed according to the disclosure having a substantially uninterrupted surface along the entire length and width of the film as applied to a substrate, for example, a keratinous substrate such as skin. In various embodiments, the film has a thickness that may be constant or may vary across a surface of a substrate upon which it is spread, such as, but not limited to, application to all or a portion of skin, such as, but not limited to, facial skin, or hair such as, but not limited to, eyelashes, eyebrows, and head hair. In some embodiments, the thickness of the film varies by no more than 5%. The film may include skin actives that may provide additional benefits, including hydration, lightening, and brightening. The firming film demonstrates cohesion and good adhesion to the substrate with little or no bubbles and without flaking, peeling or cracking.

The terms "tighten" and "tightening" mean that the firming film contracts such that the substrate, such as skin or hair, is taut and moderately tightened relative to skin without the film, such that the film reduces the visual appearance of wrinkles in the skin.

The terms “Exclude,” “Exempt,” and “Substantially Free” mean that no reliably measurable excluded material, e.g., no amount greater than about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of any excluded material as described herein, is present in the composition. The terms “Exclude,” “Exempt,” and “Substantially Free” mean that, while it is preferred that no excluded material be present in the composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of the excluded material in the composition of the invention, provided that such amounts do not materially affect the advantageous properties of the composition. In particular, the terms “Exclude,” “Exempt,” and “substantially free” mean that the material may be present in the composition in an amount less than 5%, or less than 4%, or less than 3%, or less than 2%, or less than 1%, or less than 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In accordance with the various embodiments, it is contemplated that some or all of the following ingredients would be excluded from the composition of the invention: powders comprising Nylon-12, polymethyl methacrylate, polyethylene beads, and powders that are considered microplastics; lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, salicylic acid and derivatives thereof (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, salicylate, sodium salicylate, and willow extract), capryloyl salicylic acid, beta-hydroxybutanoic acid, propionic acid, beta-hydroxybeta-methylbutyric acid, carnitine tropic acid, and trethocanic acid; alkyl polyglucosides selected from the group consisting of decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, and combinations thereof; surfactants with a C10-C20 fatty alcohol or an acid hydrophobe condensed with about 2 to about 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobe; C2-C10 alkyl phenols condensed with from 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and di-fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan; mono- and di-fatty acids of C8-C20; polyoxyethylene sorbitan; polyoxyethylene polyglycosides and fatty amides of saccharides (e.g., methyl gluconamides); alkyl ether sulfates and sulfonates; alkylbenzene sulfonates; alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates; C8-C20 acyl isethionates; C8-C20 alkyl ether phosphates; alkyl ether carboxylate, PEG-100 stearate; PEG-20 stearate and other poly(ethylene glycol) esters; sucrose stearate and other sugar ester emulsifiers; glyceryl stearate and other glycerol esters; disodium ethylene dicocamide PEG-15 disulfate; sodium steroylglutamate and other fatty amides; Steareth-100 and other fatty ethers, cationic surfactants and other cationic compounds, silicones, such as silicone polymers, silicone elastomers and silicone oils, for example selected from dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and combinations thereof, phthalates, parabens, sulfates, polyquaternium, microplastics, synthetic dyes, gelling agents and combinations thereof.

Claims (9)

Cosmetic composition comprising:
a firming system that includes:
a pectin;
at least one powder;
water; and
at least one plasticizer,
wherein the firming system is spreadable and wherein, upon drying, the firming system forms a firming film that exhibits cohesion and adhesion when applied to a substrate. The composition of claim 1, wherein (i) the pectin comprises low methoxylated pectin, and the firming system further comprises at least one monosaccharide, disaccharide, or combination thereof; (ii) the composition expressly excludes metal salts selected from calcium chloride, a manganese salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, manganese gluconate, manganese sulfate, manganese chloride, a copper salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, copper gluconate, copper sulfate, copper chloride, a zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, zinc gluconate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, or combinations thereof; or (iii) a combination of (i) and (ii). The composition of claim 2, wherein the low methoxylated pectin has a molecular weight of about 10 kDa to about 1000 kDa. The composition of claim 1, the composition further characterized by one or more features selected from: (i) wherein the amount of pectin present in the composition is at a concentration of about 0.5% to about 10.0%; (ii) wherein the at least one powder is present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, based on the weight of the composition; (iii) wherein the composition comprises at least one fatty compound that includes one or more vegetable butters wherein the total amount of vegetable butter present in the composition is at a concentration of about 2% to about 9%, by weight, based on the weight of the composition; (iv) wherein the composition comprises at least one fatty compound that includes one or more emollient oils present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.5% to about 6%, by weight, based on the weight of the composition; (v) wherein the composition comprises at least one fatty compound that includes one or more waxes, wherein the total amount of wax is present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.05% to about 5%, by weight, based on the weight of the composition; (vi) wherein the amount of each plasticizer is present in the composition at a concentration of about 2% to about 10% by weight, based on the weight of the composition; (vii) wherein the total amount of surfactant present in the composition is at a concentration of about 0.01% to about 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition; or (viii) combinations of (i) – (vii). The composition of claim 1, the composition further characterized by one or more features selected from: (i) wherein the one or more powders comprise one or more of silica or silicates or combinations thereof; (ii) wherein the one or more powders are in the form of microparticles of silica, sodium silicate, potassium silicate or a combination thereof; (iii) wherein the composition comprises at least one fatty compound that comprises one or more vegetable butters, the one or more vegetable butters selected from the group consisting of Butyrospermum Parkii (shea) butter, Astrocaryum Murumuru seed butter, Theobroma cacao (cocoa) seed butter, almond butter, aloe butter, apricot kernel butter, avocado butter, coconut cream butter, cupuacu butter, dhupu butter, hemp butter, jojoba butter, kokum butter, macadamia nut butter, mango butter and derivatives thereof (iv) wherein the composition comprises glycerin as a plasticizer; (v) wherein the composition comprises one or more surfactants selected from sorbitan isostearate, polysorbate 60, stearic acid, cetearyl alcohol, polysorbate 20, glyceryl stearate (and) peg-100 stearate, cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20, glyceryl stearate, sorbitan stearate, or combinations thereof; or (vi) combinations of (i) – (v). The composition of claim 1, wherein (i) the composition comprises at least one fatty compound that comprises one or more waxes selected from the group consisting of Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) wax, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, and combinations thereof; (ii) the composition comprises at least one fatty compound and wherein the fatty compound and plasticizer are present in a fatty compound to plasticizer ratio of about 1:1; (iii) water in the composition is present from about 5% to about 75%, and the composition has a pH in a range of about 5 to about 7; (iv) the composition includes a surfactant blend comprising sorbitan isostearate and polysorbate 60; (v) the composition includes at least one cosmetically acceptable polymer, wherein the at least one polymer has a glass transition (Tg) that is in the range of about -70°C to about -30°C, the polymer being present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.4% to about 3%, by weight, based on the weight of the composition; (vi) the composition includes at least one fatty compound and wherein the composition includes a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer; (vii) the composition is provided in liquid form, for example as a lotion or cream, or wherein the composition is provided as a make-up such as a foundation or mascara; or (viii) combinations of (i) – (vii). Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which:
in the firming system:
pectin is present from about 0.5 to about 10%;
the at least one powder comprises about 0.1 to about 10% silica microspheres; and
the composition comprises at least one fatty compound comprising from about 4% to about 8% of vegetable butters,
in which all quantities are by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which:
the composition is provided with an applicator; and a cosmetic vector system for a cosmetic product selected from the group consisting of an anti-aging skin treatment and a makeup. A cosmetic composition according to claim 8, wherein (i) the applicator is selected from a roller surface of a roller applicator, a bristle surface of a brush, a sprayer, a pad, a spatula or combinations thereof; (ii) the composition is contained within the applicator, or wherein the cosmetic system comprises a container and wherein the composition is contained separately from the applicator; (iii) the firming system and the cosmetic carrier system are in the form of a liquid or cream type emulsion comprising at least one fatty compound, or an oil-free serum for application to the skin to reduce signs of aging; (iv) the firming system and the cosmetic carrier system are in the form of a viscous liquid emulsion or suspension for application as a makeup to keratinous tissue selected from skin, eyelashes and hair to impart firmness to the keratinous tissue; or (v) combinations of (i) – (iv).