FR3021536A1 - FLUID PHOTOPROTECTIVE COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: a) a continuous aqueous phase, b) an oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase, and c) at least one mixture of surfactants, said mixture comprising : i. at least one modified inulin, selected from the group consisting of inulins modified with C4-C32 alkyl carbamate groups and inulins modified with C4-C32 alkyl ester groups, ii. at least one alkaline salt of phosphoric acid ester and C14-C36 fatty alcohol, and iii. at least one C 12 -C 30 fatty acid ester and glycerol, and d) at least one UV filter, said composition having a viscosity of less than 170 mPa.s at 25 ° C.

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a fluid photoprotective composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and to a cosmetic composition comprising it.

It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the color and / or the homogeneity of the complexion, comprising the application to the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition as defined above . It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratinous material comprising the application to the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition as defined above. It is known that radiations of wavelength between 280 nm and 400 nm allow tanning of the human epidermis and that radiation of wavelength between 280 and 320 nm, known as UV rays. -B impair the development of natural tanning. Exposure is also likely to induce an alteration of the biomechanical properties of the epidermis which results in the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature aging of the skin. It is also known that UV-A rays of wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm penetrate deeper into the skin than UV-B rays. UV-A rays cause immediate and persistent browning of the skin. Daily exposure to UVA rays, even for short periods, under normal conditions can lead to collagen and elastin fiber degradation which results in a change in skin microrelief, wrinkling and pigmentation. irregular (brown spots, heterogeneity of complexion). Many photoprotective compositions have been proposed to date to remedy the effects induced by UVA and / or UVB radiation. They generally contain organic UV filters and / or inorganic UV filters which function according to their own chemical nature and their own properties by absorption, reflection, or diffusion of UV radiation. They generally contain mixtures of liposoluble organic filters and / or water-soluble UV filters associated with metal oxide pigments such as titanium dioxide. Among the various textures of existing photoprotective compositions, the fluid compositions are appreciated by consumers because they can be applied quickly and easily to the entire body. In particular, milk sprays are one of the most fluid compositions used. They can be placed on the skin using a spray pump or aerosol (mist) type packaging. However, these compositions do not generally have a good quality of sprayability, which leads to a distribution on non-homogeneous skin and requires careful re-spreading of the composition to ensure good UV protection. The quality of sprayability of a composition is directly related to its viscosity, which must be as low as possible, which is not favorable to the stability of the formula and its filtering efficiency. In practice, the compromise between viscosity and stability is a technical problem that is difficult for those skilled in the art to solve. On the other hand, the compositions in sprays generally lead to a film-forming and sticky feel, which is not appreciated by the users. There is therefore a need for a new photoprotective composition, whose level of SPF efficiency is high (which may reach SPF greater than 50), but which does not have the drawbacks of the compositions of the state of the art. that is to say that is both stable and has a sufficiently low viscosity to be applied spray. It is an object of the present invention to provide a stable oil-in-water emulsion composition. The object of the present invention is to provide a composition in the form of a fluid oil-in-water emulsion, preferably capable of being spray applied. It is an object of the present invention to provide an oil-in-water emulsion composition having a high SPF efficiency level (which can achieve SPFs greater than 50). The present invention proposes to use a specific combination of surfactants. The invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: a) a continuous aqueous phase, b) an oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase, and c) at least one mixture of surfactants, said mixture comprising: i. at least one modified inulin selected from the group consisting of C4-C32 alkyl carbamate-modified inulins and C4-C32 alkyl ester-modified inulins ii21536 ii. at least one alkaline salt of phosphoric acid ester and fatty alcohol at 014-036, and iii. at least one fatty acid ester of 0-12-030 and glycerol, and d) at least one UV filter, said composition having a viscosity of less than 170 mPa.s at 25 ° C. Surprisingly, the inventors have discovered that by combining the three specific surfactants mentioned above, it is possible to obtain a composition in the form of a fluid-in-water emulsion which is fluid, stable and effectively protects against rays. UV, preferably UVA and UVB. The combination of said surfactants thus makes it possible to overcome the compromise between viscosity and stability of the abovementioned formula while ensuring a high level of filtering efficiency, which was previously encountered by the person skilled in the art. It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the color and / or the homogeneity of the complexion, comprising applying to the surface of the keratinous material at least one composition as defined previously. It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratinous material comprising the application to the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition as defined above. The different ingredients of the composition of the invention will now be detailed. Modified Inulin Surfactant In the context of the present invention, the term "modified inulin" means an inulin which has been modified by grafting groups onto the hydrophilic backbone of said inulin. Inulin belongs to the fructan family. The fructans or fructosans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a sequence of anhydrofructose units optionally associated with a number of different saccharide residues of fructose. The fructans can be linear or branched. The fructans can be products obtained directly from a plant or microbial source or products whose chain length has been modified (increased or reduced) by fractionation, synthesis or hydrolysis in particular enzymatic. The fructans generally have a degree of polymerization of from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60. There are 3 groups of fructans. The first group corresponds to products whose fructose units are mostly linked by 3-2-1 bonds. These are essentially linear fructans such as inulins. The second group also corresponds to linear fructoses but the fructose units are essentially linked by [3-2-6. These products are levanes. The third group corresponds to mixed fructans, that is to say having sequences [3-2-6 and (3-2-1) These are essentially branched fructans such as graminans Inulin can be obtained for example From chicory, dahlia or Jerusalem artichoke In the context of the present invention, the hydrophobic modified inulin is preferably obtained from chicory The inulins used in the compositions according to the invention are hydrophobically modified. In particular, they are obtained by grafting hydrophobic chains onto the hydrophilic skeleton of the fructan, The hydrophobic chains capable of being grafted onto the main chain of the fructan may in particular be linear or branched hydrocarbon chains, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl, alkylene, divalent cycloaliphatic groups or organophatic chains These hydrocarbon or organopolysiloxane chains may in particular comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, and / or sulphonamide functions such as in particular methylenedicyclohexyl and isophorone; or divalent aromatic groups such as phenylene. According to one particular embodiment, the hydrophobic modified inulin (s) used in the context of the invention are inulins with hydrophobic groups chosen from hydrophobic carbamate or ester groups. The term "hydrophobic carbamate group" means a C4-C32 alkyl carbamate group, that is to say a group -OCONH-R, R being a C4-C32 alkyl. The term hydrophobic ester group is understood to mean a C 4 -C 32 alkyl ester group, that is, a -000-R group, where R is a C 4 -C 32 alkyl. These hydrophobic groups are derived in particular from the reaction of the hydroxyl groups of the starting inulin with either an isocyanate RN = C = O (to form a carbamate group), or an R-COOH acid or R-acid chloride. COCI (to form an ester group). In particular, the inulin has a degree of polymerization of from 2 to about 1000, preferably from 2 to about 100, and even more preferably from 2 to about 70, and a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of fructose unit. Advantageously, the hydrophobic carbamate group is an alkyl 06-020 carbamate group. Preferably, the hydrophobic carbamate group is a C8-C18 alkyl carbamate group. Preferably, the hydrophobic carbamate group is an alkyl 010-018 carbamate group. More preferably, the hydrophobic carbamate group is a C10-C14 alkyl carbamate group. According to a more preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic carbamate group is a lauryl carbamate group (O 12 alkyl group). Inulins with hydrophobic carbamate groups are for example described in application WO 99/64549. Advantageously, the hydrophobic ester group is an alkyl 06-020 ester group. Preferably, the hydrophobic ester group is an alkyl ester group. Preferably, the hydrophobic ester group is an alkyl 010-020 ester group. More preferably, the hydrophobic ester group is a C10-C18 alkyl ester group.

Inulins with hydrophobic ester groups are, for example, described in US Pat. No. 5,877,144. In particular, the hydrophobic groups of inulin are chosen from the alkyl groups 04-032 carbamate or alkyl 04-032 ester, preferably from the groups alkyl 010018 carbamate or C10-C18 alkyl ester.

Preferably, an inulin with hydrophobic carbamate groups is used. The inulin with hydrophobic carbamate or ester groups may have a degree of substitution (OH level of inulin substituted by a hydrophobic group) ranging from 0.01 to 0.5, preferably ranging from 0.02 to 0.4 preferably from 0.05 to 0.35. Advantageously, the degree of substitution can range from 0.1 to 0.3.

As examples of inulin with hydrophobic ester groups, mention may be made of stearoyl inulin such as those sold under the names Lifidrem Inst® by the company Engelhard and Rheopearl INS® by the company Ciba; palmitoyl inulin; undecylenoyl inulin such as those sold under the names Lifidrem INUK® and Lifidrem INUM® by the company Engelhard.

An example of inulin with hydrophobic carbamate groups is lauryl carbamate inulin such as that sold under the name INUTEC SP1 8 by the company Beneo. Preferably, the hydrophobic modified inulin in the composition of the invention is based on chicory inulin and in particular is the inulin lauryl carbamate. The modified inulin may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.3% to 3%, preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight. %, preferably 0.3% to 0.5% by weight. Alkaline salt of ester of rhizo-acid and alcohol in 014-036 In the context of the present invention, the term "alkaline salt of phosphoric acid ester and of fatty alcohol in C14-036 "an alkaline salt (typically sodium or potassium) of phosphoric acid ester and fatty alcohol, wherein the linear or branched fatty alcohol comprises from 14 to 36 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 20 carbon atoms. The alkali metal salt of phosphoric acid ester and C 14 -C 36 fatty alcohol typically has the following formula: ## STR3 ## wherein: R is independently an alkyl group linear or branched comprising from 14 to 36 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 20 carbon atoms, - M represents independently a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal atom, typically a sodium or potassium atom, and n is 1 or 2. As a C 14 -C 36 fatty alcohol, mention may be made of cetyl alcohol and myristic alcohol.

As the alkaline salt of phosphoric acid ester and C 14 -C 36 fatty alcohol, mention may be made of: the sodium and potassium salts of monocetyl phosphate, the alkaline salts of dicetylphosphate, and in particular the sodium and potassium salts; and alkali metal salts of dimyristyl phosphate, and in particular sodium and potassium salts. Preferably, the alkali salt of phosphoric acid ester and fatty alcohol in 014- 036 of the composition of the invention is the potassium salt of monocetyl phosphate, (INCI name: Potassium Cetyl Phosphate) such as for example the compound sold under the reference Amphisol K® by the company DSM.

The alkaline salt of phosphoric acid ester and C 14 -C 36 fatty alcohol of the composition of the invention may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.3% to 3%, preferably from 0.5% to 2%, advantageously from 0.8% to 1.5% by weight.

In the context of the present invention, the term "C 12 -C 30 fatty acid ester and glycerol" is understood to mean a glycerol and fatty acid ester, in which the saturated or unsaturated fatty acid comprises from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 26 carbon atoms. As a C12-C30 fatty acid, mention may be made of lauric acid, myristic acid, arachidic acid, cetyl acid, cetearyl acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, lactic acid and the like. palmitic acid and behenic acid. Preferably, the fatty acid is stearic acid.

The C 12 -C 30 fatty acid ester of glycerol of the invention typically comprises from 1 to 20 glyceryl units, preferably from 1 to 10 glycerol units. The C 12 -C 30 fatty acid ester of glycerol of the invention typically comprises from 1 to 10 fatty acid units. As a C 12 -C 30 fatty acid ester and glycerol, mention may be made of glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl isostearate, diglyceryl distearate, tetraglyceryl tristearate, decaglyceryl decastearate, sodium monostearate and the like. diglyceryl, hexaglyceryl tristearate, decaglyceryl pentastearate, glycerol and palmitic acid and stearic acid ester, glyceryl monobhenate and glyceryl dibehenate.

According to one embodiment, the C 12 -C 30 fatty acid ester and glycerol is selected from glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl isostearate and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the C 12 -C 30 fatty acid ester and glycerol is glyceryl monostearate.

The fatty acid ester of C 12 -C 30 and glycerol may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight. %, preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a mixture of inulin lauryl carbamate, potassium salt of monocetyl phosphate and glyceryl monostearate.

The present invention relates to a fluid composition. In the context of the present invention, the term "fluid" means that the viscosity of the composition of the invention is less than or equal to 170 mPa.s at 25 ° C. Preferably, the viscosity of the composition of the invention is less than or equal to 150 mPa.s at 25 ° C, and preferably less than or equal to 125 mPa.s at 25 ° C. The viscosity is measured at a temperature of 25 ° C. using a Rhéomat 180 (Company LAMY), equipped with a mobile MS-R1, MS-R2, MS-R3, MS-R4 or MS-R5 chosen depending on the consistency of the composition, rotating at a rotation speed of 200 rpm. Preferably, the composition of the invention is said to be "superfluid", that is to say that it has a low viscosity of less than or equal to 125 mPa.s, so that it can be applied in a sprayable manner. homogeneous, without the need to re-spread it. The present invention relates to a composition in the form of a stable emulsion.

In the context of the present invention, the term "stable emulsion" means an emulsion which, after 1 month of storage at 45 ° C., shows no macroscopic change in color, odor, viscosity or pH variation. , as well as no variation of microscopic appearance.

The composition of the invention is a photoprotective composition, i.e., it can filter UV rays, preferably UVA and UVB rays. The composition of the invention can attain an SPF of 50+ without affecting its viscosity. This range of high SPF (greater than or equal to 50) is however not limiting for the compositions of the invention.

In the context of the present invention, the term "high SPF" means a sun protection factor (SPF) which may reach a value greater than or equal to 50. The efficiency in solar filtration is defined by the sun protection factor (SPF), which is determined according to the "in vivo" method according to the recommendations of ISO 24444 (November 2010).

UV filter The composition of the invention comprises at least one UV filter, preferably selected from the group consisting of hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV filters, inorganic pigments, and mixtures thereof.

The composition of the invention preferably comprises a mixture of UVA and UVB filters of organic or inorganic nature.

The UV filters according to the invention are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular from 5% to 10% by weight. 30% by weight.

In the context of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic UV filter" means any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase. In the context of the present invention, the term "lipophilic filter" means any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid oily phase or to be solubilized. in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid oily phase.

In the context of the present invention, the term "insoluble UV filter" means any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation having a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0. 5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates and triglycerides of fatty acids, for example Miglyol 812® sold by the company Dynamit Nobel. This solubility, performed at 70 ° C., is defined as the amount of product in solution in the equilibrium solvent with an excess of suspended solid after returning to ambient temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.

The organic UV screening agents are chosen in particular from cinnamic compounds, anthranilate compounds, salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds, benzophenone compounds, [3, [3-diphenylacrylate compounds, triazine compounds, compounds benzotriazole, benzalmalonate compounds such as those mentioned in US5624663, benzimidazole compounds, imidazoline compounds, bis-benzoazolyl compounds such as those described in EP669323 and US2463264, p-aminobenzoic compounds (PABA), methylene bis compounds ( hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) such as those described in US Pat. No. 5,276,771, US Pat. , dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in 302153 DE19855649, 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds such as those described in EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981, merocyanines such as those described in US4195999, WO2004 / 006878, WO2008 / 090066, WO2011113718. , W02009027258 and IP COM JOURNAL documents No. 000179675D 5 published on February 23, 2009, IP COM JOURNAL No. 000182396D published on April 29, 2009, IP COM JOURNAL No. 000189542D published November 12, 2009, IP COM Journal No. IPCOM000011179D published on 04/03/2004, and their mixtures. As examples of organic UV filters, mention may be made of those referred to below under their INCI name: Cinnamic compounds Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX® by DSM Nutritial Products, Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate, Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate, sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000® by Symrise, DEA Methoxycinnamate, Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, and Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate.

Dibenzoylmethane - Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane compounds, sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL 1789 ® by DSM Nutritial Products, and - Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane.

Para-aminobenzoic compounds PABA, Ethyl PABA, Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA, sold in particular under the name "ESCALOL 5070" by ISP, Glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA, sold under the name "UVINUL P 250" by BASF.

Salicylic Compounds - Homosalate, sold under the name "Eusolex HMSO" by Rona / EM Industries, 3021536 11 - Ethylhexyl Salicylate, sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN OS0" by Symrise, - Dipropylene Glycol Salicylate, sold under the name "DIPSAL 0" by SCHER, and - TEA Salicylate, sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN TS0" by Symrise.

6,13-diphenylacrylate-octocrylene compounds (or α-cyano-6,13'-diphenylacrylate 2-ethylhexyl), sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL N 5390" by BASF, and - Etocrylene, sold in particular under the name "UVINUL N 350" by BAS F.

Benzophenone compounds Benzophenone-1, sold under the trade name Uvinul 400 0 by BASF, Benzophenone-2, sold under the trade name Uvinul D 50 0 by BASF, Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone sold under the trade name UVINUL M 15,400 by BASF, Benzophenone-4, sold under the trade name Uvinul MS 400 by BASF, Benzophenone-5, Benzophenone-6, sold under the trade name Helisorb 110 by Norquay, Benzophenone-8, sold under the trademark "Spectra-Sorb UV-240" by American Cyanamid, Benzophenone-9, sold under the trade name "UVINUL DS 49 0" by BASF, Benzophenone-12, 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) n-hexyl benzoate, sold under the trade name "UVINUL A Plus 0" or in admixture with octylmethoxycinnamate under the trade name "UVINUL A Plus Be" by BASF, and 1,1 '- (1, 4-piperazinediyl) bis [11214- (diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyehenyl] methanone (CAS 919803-06-8), as described in WO2007 / 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 μm) obtainable for example according to the micronization process described in GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in the form of aqueous dispersion. Benzylidene camphor-3-benzylidene camphor compounds, manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SD0" by CHIMEX, 35 -4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, sold under the name "EUSOLEX 63000" by MERCK, 3021536 12 Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid, manufactured under the name " MEXORYL SL0 "by CHIMEX, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate, manufactured under the name" MEXORYL SO0 "by CHIMEX, 5 Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, manufactured under the name" MEXORYL SX0 "by CHIMEX, and Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor, manufactured under the name" MEXORYL SW0 By CHIMEX. Compounds phenyl benzimidazole - Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, sold in particular under the trade name "Eusolex 2320" by Merck. Bis-benzoazolyl Compounds 15 - Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate, sold under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN AP0" by Symrise. Phenyl benzotriazole compounds - Drometrizole Trisiloxane, manufactured under the name "MEXORYL XL 0" by CHIMEX.

Methylenebis-bis (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, especially in solid form such as the product sold under the trade name "MIXXIM BB / 100 0" by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL; or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 5 μm, more preferably from 0.01 to 2 μm, more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant. of structure C, 1-12n + 10 (C6H1005) xH wherein n is an integer of 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6H1005) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, such as described in GB-A-2,303,549, especially sold under the trade name "TINOSORB Me" by BASF; or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 μm, more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 μm, more preferably from 0.02 to 1 μm, in the presence of at least one polyglyceryl mono- (C5-C20) alkyl ester having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5, such as the aqueous dispersions described in WO2009 / 063392.

Triazine compounds - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, sold under the trade name "Tinosorb Se" by BASF, 5-Ethylhexyl Triazone, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T 1500 by BASF, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, sold under the trademark trade name "UVASORB HEBe" by SIGMA 3V, - 2,4,6-tris (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine, 10 - 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) ) -s-triazine, -2,4-bis (n-butyl 4-aminobenzoate) -6- (aminopropyltrisiloxane) -s-triazine, -2,4-bis (dineopentyl-4-aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (N-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine, symmetrical triazine filters substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in US6225467, WO2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symetrical Triazine Derivatives". "IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, WEST HENRIETTA INC, NY, US (September 20, 2004), including 2,4,6-tris (di-phenyl) triazine and 2,4 , 6-tris (ter-phenyl) -triazine, which are incorporated in W006 / 035000, W006 / 034982, W006 / 034991, W006 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992 and WO2006 / 034985, these compounds being advantageously used in micronized form (size particle average of 0.02 to 3 μm) obtainable, for example, according to the micronization process described in GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119, and especially in the form of an aqueous dispersion, and the triazine silicones substituted by two aminobenzoate groups, as described in EP0841341, in particular 2,4-bis (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -6 - [(3- {1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [ (trimethylsilyloxy) disiloxanyl} propyl) amino] s-triazine. Anthranilic compounds 30 - Menthyl anthranilate, sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan MA®" by Symrise. Imidazoline compounds - Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate.

Benzalmalonate compounds - Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions, such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name "PARSOL SLX 0" by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE.

4,4-Diarylbutadiene-1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene compounds. Benzoxazole compounds 10 - 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine, sold under the name "Uvasorb K2A0" by Sigma 3V. The preferred organic free-form UV screening agents are chosen from: n-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, 15-ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid, 20-benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-5, 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, 25-Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, - Ethylhexyl Triazone, 30 - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, - 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate dineopentyl) -s-triazine, - 2,4,6-tris Diisobutyl (4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine, 2,4-bis (n-butyl 4-aminobenzoate) -6- (aminopropyltrisiloxane) -s-triazine, -2,4-bis- (Dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (4'-aminobenzoate-butyl) -s-triazine, -2,4,6-tris- (di-phenyl) -triazine 2,4,6-tris- (ter-phenyl) -triazine, 2,4-bis (n-butyl-4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -6 - [(3- {1,3,3,3 tetramethy1-1 - [(trimethylsilyloxy) disiloxanyl} propyl) amino] -s-triazine, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Polysilicone-15,1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino] 1,3,5-triazine, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, and 10 their mixtures. Particularly preferred free-form organic UV filters are chosen from: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid, n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, 2,4,6-tris- (di-phenyl) -triazine, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment, the UV filter (s) of the composition of the invention is (are) chosen from the group consisting of: Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, and mixtures thereof.

The inorganic UV filters used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments (also called inorganic pigments). More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average element particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 μm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 μm and more preferably more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 .mu.m, more preferably between 0.01 and 0.1 .mu.m, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 .mu.m. They may be chosen in particular from oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium or their mixtures.

Such metal oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are in particular described in EP-A-0518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, TAYCA, MERCK and DEGUSSA. The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate. The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with silica, such as the product "SUNVEIL®" from the company IKEDA, silica and iron oxide, such as the product "SUNVEIL Fe" from the company IKEDA, 30 of silica and alumina, such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA®" and "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA" from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" from the company TIOXIDE, alumina, such as the products " TAPAQUE TTO-55 (B) 0 "and" TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A) 0 "from the company ISHIHARA, and" UVT 14/4 "from the company SACHTLEBEN 35 PIGMENTS, 3021536 17 alumina and aluminum stearate , such as the "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 Te, MT 100 TX®, MT 100 Z®, MT-010, MT100 TV® products from TAYCA, the" Solaveil CT-10 We "and" Solaveil CT 1000 "products from the company UNIQEMA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO®" from MERCK, silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the product "MT-100 A Qe "from the company TAYCA, alumina and aluminum laurate, such as the product" MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 Se "from the company TAYCA, iron oxide and iron stearate, such as the product" MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE 10 MT 100 Fe "from the company TAYCA, zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as the product" BR 3510 "from the company TAYCA, silica and alumina, treated with a silicone, such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS®", "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 15 500 SAS®" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS®" from TAYCA, silica, alumina, aluminum stearate, treated with silicone , such as the product "STT-30-DSe" from the company TITAN KOGYO, silica treated with a silicone, such as the product "UV-TITAN X 1950" from the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, alumina, treated with a silicone, such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (S) e" of the company ISHIHARA, or "UV TITAN M 2620" of the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, of triethanolamine, such as the product "STT-65-S" from TITAN KOGYO, 25 of stearic acid, such as the product "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C) e" from the company ISHIHARA, sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 We" from the company TAYCA, the TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane, sold under the trade name "T 8050" by the company Degussa Silices, the TiO 2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane, sold under the trade name "70250 Carder UF TiO2S130" by CARDRE, and anatase / rutile TiO2, treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane, sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE 35 HYDROPHOBIC" by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES .

It may also be mentioned TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably selected from triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may additionally comprise one or more dispersing agents, such as, for example, a sorbitan ester such as sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol ester, such as TRI-PPG3 MYRISTYLETHER. CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of the titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent selected from fatty acid esters and polyoxyalkylenated glycerol. Mention may more particularly be made of the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO 2 particles in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTERATE INCI name: 15 TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, such as the product sold under the trade name "OPTISOL TD50" by the company CRODA. Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Tayca under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 20 500 B" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 Be", by the company DEGUSSA under the name "P 25", by the company WACKHER under the name "transparent titanium oxide PW®", by the company MIYOSHI KASEI under the name "UFTR®", by the company TOMEN under the name "ITS®" and by the company TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ ® ".

The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the name "Z-cote" by the company Sunsmart, those marketed under the name "Nanox®" by the company Elementis, and those marketed under the name "Z-cote" by the company Sunsmart; the name "Nanogard WCD 2025®" by Nanophase Technologies.

The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5®" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane), those marketed under the trademark "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN®" By Nanophase Technologies (40% dispersion in Finsolv TN®, C12-C15 alcohols benzoate), 3021536 19 those marketed under the name "DAITOPERSION Zn-300" and "DAITOPERSION Zn-500" by Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylenated, containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogeniloxane), those sold under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO0" by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and perfluoroalkylethyl copolymer dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane), those marketed under the name "SPD-Z10" by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane), those sold under the name "Escalol Z100®" by the company ISP (ZnO treated alumina and dispersed in the mixture methoxycinnamate ethylhexyl / PVP copolymer) hexadecene / methicone), those sold under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-100" by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane), and those marketed under the trademark "Nanox Gel TN0" by Elementis (ZnO 55% dispersed in C12-C15 alcohols benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).

The uncoated cerium oxide pigments may for example be those sold under the name "COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE®" by the company RHONE POULENC. Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 20020 (FE 45B®)", "NANOGARD 25 IRON FE 45 BL AQ®", "NANOGARD FE 45R AQ®," NANOGARD WCD 2006 0 (FE 45R®) ", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name" TY-220® ". The coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN) ®", "NANOGARD WCD 20090 (FE 45B 556®)", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345® "NANOGARD FE 45 BL®", or by BASF under the name "OXIDE OF IRON TRANSPARENT®". Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the titanium dioxide and cerium-coated cerium dioxide equivalent mixture, sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL" A® ", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product" M 2610 "sold by the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as the product "M 2110" sold by SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS. According to the invention, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.

Oily phase The composition of the invention comprises an oily phase. In the context of the present invention, the term "oily phase" is understood to mean a phase comprising at least one oil and all the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and fatty substances used for the formulation of the composition of the invention. The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). An oil suitable for the invention may be volatile or non-volatile. An oil suitable for the invention may be selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof. In the context of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. A hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may further optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl, amine, amide, ester, ether or acid, and in particular in the form of hydroxyl, ester, ether or acid groups. A hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be an animal hydrocarbon oil, a vegetable hydrocarbon oil, a mineral hydrocarbon oil, or a synthetic hydrocarbon oil.

In the context of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" or "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. In the context of the present invention, the term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The oily phase generally comprises, in addition to the optional lipophilic UV screening agent (s), at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and / or a volatile and / or non-volatile silicone oil. In the context of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil (s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa ( 10-3 at 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01). at 10 mmHg). In the context of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil remaining on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mm. Hg (0.13 Pa). Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the glyceride triesters and in particular the caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names "Miglyol 8100, 812®". and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel, fatty amides such as Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as the product sold under the trade name "Eldew SL 205®" from Ajinomoto, synthetic esters and in particular isononanoate isononyl, diisopropyl sebacate, C12-C15 alcohols benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN®" or "Witconol TN®" by WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN®" by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT company, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-TEND 2260" by the company ISP, and fatty alcohols including octyldodecanol. According to one embodiment, the oily phase of the composition of the invention comprises one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon oils. According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises, as nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids and / or diisopropyl sebacate. As volatile hydrocarbon oils that may be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned hydrocarbon-based oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes, such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (called also isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, branched esters of C8-C16, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Among the nonvolatile silicone oils, mention may be made of non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 3021536 22 carbon atoms. phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates. Among the volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 atoms silicon, these silicones optionally having alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof. Among the fluorinated volatile oils, there may be mentioned nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof.

An oily phase according to the invention may further comprise other fatty substances, mixed with or solubilized in the oil. According to one particular form of the invention, the overall oily phase, including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, represents from 5% to 95% by weight, preferentially from 10% to 80% by weight. % and advantageously from 10% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous Phase The composition of the invention comprises an aqueous phase. The aqueous phase contains water, and optionally one or more other organic solvents that are soluble or miscible with water. An aqueous phase that is suitable for the invention may comprise, for example, a water chosen from natural spring water, such as La Roche-Posay water, Vittel water, or Vichy waters, or flower water. Solvents or water-miscible solvents suitable for the invention include short-chain monohydric alcohols, for example C 1 -C 4 such as ethanol and isopropanol, diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, and sorbitol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol and mixtures thereof. In the context of the present invention, the term "polyol" means an organic compound having at least 3 hydroxyl functions, and typically from 3 to 10 hydroxyl functions. According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase of the composition of the invention comprises a mixture of at least one monoalcohol, at least one diol and at least one polyol. According to one particular embodiment, ethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol and mixtures thereof can be used more particularly. According to one particular form of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, represents from 5% to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10% to 15% by weight. 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably from 10% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: from 0.1% to 15%, preferably from 0.5% to 3%, preferably from 0.3% to 1%, advantageously from 0, 3% to 0.5% by weight of modified inulin selected from the group consisting of C4-032 alkyl carbamate-modified inulins and C4-032 alkyl ester-modified inulins, 0.1% to 15% preferably from 0.5% to 3%, preferably from 0.5% to 2%, advantageously from 0.8% to 1.5% by weight of alkaline salt of phosphoric acid ester and alcohol C 14 -C 36 fatty acids, and from 0.1% to 15%, preferably from 0.5% to 3%, preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight of C 12 -C 30 fatty acid ester and of glycerol , relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises: from 0.1% to 45%, preferably from 5% to 30%, by weight of UV filter (s), from 5% to 95%, preferably from 10% to 80%, by weight of oily phase, from 5% to 95%, preferably from 10% to 80%, by weight of aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives The composition of the present invention may furthermore comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, chosen in particular from organic solvents, hydrophilic or lipophilic ionic or nonionic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers and emollients. silicones, anti-foam agents, perfumes, preservatives, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, other than those constituting the specific combination of surfactants of the invention mentioned above, fillers, polymers, propellants, alkalizing or acidifying agents or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field. As hydrophilic thickeners, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulen (acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer) (PEMULEN TR1® or PEMULEN TR2®); polyacrylamides, for example crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305® (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the Seppic company; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the trade name "Hostacerin AMPS®" (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or SIMULGEL 800® marketed by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate as SIMULGEL NS® and SEPINOV EMT 10® sold by the company SEPPIC, cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, polysaccharides and especially gums such as Xanthan gum, water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivatives such as acrylic silicones, polyether silicones and cationic silicones and mixtures thereof. Examples which may be mentioned are, for example, inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids. Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises one or more alkalinizing agents chosen from alkanolamines, in particular triethanolamine, and sodium hydroxide.

The pH of the composition of the invention is generally between 3 and 12 approximately, preferably between 4 and 11 approximately, and even more particularly between 5 and 8. The composition of the invention may comprise raw materials not filtering 5 themselves not UV radiation but to amplify the filter performance of the compositions of the invention: it is about "boosters" efficiency. Examples include the styrene copolymer particles and alkyl acrylate sold under the name Sunspheres Powder by Rohm &Haas; waxes such as polymethylene wax (Cirebelle 303 sold by the company Cirebelle) are also mentioned. Mention may also be made of lipophilic gelling polymers such as the semi-crystalline polyacrylates sold under the names Interlimer IPA 13-1, Interlimer IPA 13-6 or lipophilic polyamides, such as the commercial products sold by Air Products and Chemicals under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 or Uniclear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, whose INCI name is "ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer or Uniclear 100VG-PA whose INCI name is" ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer. For example, hollow latex particles having a particle size ranging from 150 to 380 nm, such as those described in US Pat. No. 5,663,213 and EP1092421, may also be mentioned.

By "latex" is meant polymer particles in the form of an aqueous dispersion generally stabilized by at least one emulsifying agent. For a given particle size, the latex particles according to the invention must generally have a maximum hollow fraction. Preferably, the latex particles contain a void fraction of 0.1% to 50% and more preferably 5% to 50%. The void fractions are determined by comparing the volume occupied by the latex particles after being compacted from a diluted dispersion in a centrifuge relative to the volume of non-void particles in the same composition. The hollow latex particles according to the invention can be obtained from particles comprising at least one polymer for the core and at least one polymer for the envelope. The core polymer and the shell polymer can be obtained from a single polymerization step or by a sequence of the polymerization steps. The hollow latex particles according to the invention can be prepared by standard emulsion polymerization techniques. Such methods are especially described in US4427836; US4469825; US4594363; US4677003; US4920160; US4970241; or by conventional polymerization techniques described in the following applications and patents: EP267726; EP331421; US490229; US5157084. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, hollow latex particles consisting of a copolymer of styrene and of (meth) acrylic acid or one of its (Ci-C20) alkyl esters under the name INCI will be used: Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, such as the product sold under the trade name Sunsphere Powder by the company Rohm & Haas, which is an aqueous dispersion containing 86% of Styrene / Acrylate Copolymer copolymer in a mixture of 11% PEG-8 LAURATE, 2.5 % water and 0.5% SODIUM DODECYLBENZENESULFONATE.

The efficacy booster (s) according to the invention are preferably present in the composition of the invention in amounts ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additive (s) mentioned above and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions of the invention, in particular the viscosity, are not, or not substantially, , altered by the addition or additions envisaged. The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetics, of the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular for the protection and / or care of the skin, lips and / or hair, and / or for makeup of the skin and / or lips.

Process for preparing the composition The present invention also relates to a process for the preparation of the composition described above. Typically, the process for preparing the composition of the invention comprises the following steps: - preparation of the aqueous phase, - preparation of the oily phase, - introduction of the oily phase thus obtained into the previously prepared aqueous phase with mechanical stirring by which an oil-in-water emulsion is obtained, and any additives are added to the emulsion thus formed.

The aqueous phase typically comprises water, one or more hydrophilic solvents, and optionally one or more hydrophilic organic UV filters. The oily phase typically comprises fatty substances, the surfactants of the invention, and optionally one or more lipophilic organic UV filters and / or one or more UV filters of the mineral pigment type. Preferably, the aqueous phase and / or the oily phase are prepared with mechanical stirring at a temperature of 50 ° C to 100 ° C. Preferably, the introduction step is carried out with mechanical stirring using a pale-type homogenizer or helix and rotor-stator. This step is typically performed at a speed of 1000 rpm to 8000 rpm. This step is typically carried out by bringing the aqueous phase to a temperature of from 50 ° C to 100 ° C. Preferably, the composition obtained is cooled with slow stirring using a movement of the scraper blades at a speed below 1000 rpm.

The composition according to the invention may for example be used as a skincare and / or sun protection product for the face and / or the body of superfluid fluid consistency. It can advantageously be packaged in an aerosol and be in the form of mist, or packaged in a pump bottle and be in the form of a spray. A composition according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotion is applied in the form of fine droplets by means of pressurizing devices. The devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant as well as aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. The latter are described in US Pat. Nos. 4,077,441 and 4,850,517. A composition according to the invention packaged in an aerosol generally contains a conventional propellant, such as, for example, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane, or a hydrofluorinated compound such as dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane or trichlorofluoromethane. Said propellant is preferably present in an amount ranging from 15% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition according to the invention.

A cosmetic composition according to the invention may for example be used as a non-therapeutic care product, sun protection product or make-up product, especially such as a foundation. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for care and / or makeup of a keratinous material comprising applying to the surface of said keratinous material at least one cosmetic composition according to the invention as defined above. The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the manufacture of products for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of keratinous material, in particular non-therapeutic skincare products, sun protection products and cosmetic products. makeup. In the context of the present invention, the term "keratinous material" is understood to include the skin, the lips, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the scalp. More particularly, the term "keratinous material" is intended to mean skin, lips, nails and hair. When the cosmetic composition of the invention is a sun protection product, the term "keratinous material" is preferably used to mean the skin and the lips. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising: i) a container delimiting one or more compartments (s), said container being closed by a closure element and possibly being unsealed; and ii) a make-up and / or care composition comprising a composition according to the invention disposed inside said compartment (s).

The container may for example be in the form of a pot or a box. The closure member may be in the form of a cover comprising a cover mounted displaceable by translation or by pivoting relative to the container housing the one or more composition (s) makeup and / or care.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature. In these examples, the amounts of the ingredients compositions are given in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLES The following compositions were carried out: Phase Name Quantity per 100 g Example 1 Comparative 1 Comparative 2 Comparative 3 A Glycerol 6 6 6 6 Complexing 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Propylene glycol 3 3 3 3 Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX® (active ingredient)) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Deionized water Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Triethanolamine 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Preservatives 0 , 7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Xanthane 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Caprylyl Glycol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Pentylene Glycol 3 3 3 3 B Modified Inulin 0.5 0 0.5 0.5 (INUTEC SP1) Glyceryl 1 1 1 0 monostearate Potassium Cetyl 1 1 0 1 Phosphate (Amphisol K®) Ethylene diamine 1 1 1 1 / Stearyl dimer dilinoleate (Uniclear 100 VG0) Octocrylene 5 5 5 (Uvinul N539®) 4-tert-butyl-4'-4,44 methoxydibenzoyl methane (Parsol 17890) Drometrizole 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL®) 3021536 Ethylhexyl 5 5 5 Salicylate (Neo Heliopan OS®) Ethylhexyl Triazone 1,8 1,8 1,8 1,8 (UVINUL T150®) Caprylic / Capr ic 4 4 4 4 triglyceride 5 5 5 5 diisopropyl stearate Titanium dioxide 4 4 4 4 MT 100 TV® Acrylate Copolymer C (Carbopol Aqua 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 SFIO) active ingredient D Ethanol 4 These compositions were evaluated according to their stability and viscosity. The in vivo filtering effectiveness of the composition according to the invention No. 1 was measured.

Method of preparation of the compositions in emulsion form The phases A and B were prepared by mixing the raw materials with mechanical stirring at 80 ° C., to obtain macroscopically homogeneous solutions. Each emulsion was prepared by slow introduction of phase B into phase A, with mechanical stirring using a COS 1000 type homogenizer at a stirring speed of 4000 rpm for 15 minutes. The composition obtained was cooled with stirring at 40 ° C, then phase C and then phase D were added with gentle stirring (turbine speed at 1000 rpm). The composition obtained was cooled to room temperature with slow stirring (scraper blade speed equal to 1000 rpm).

In Vivo Evaluation Protocol for Filtering Efficiency The sun protection factor (SPF) of the compositions prepared was determined according to the in vivo method in accordance with the recommendations of International Standard 24444 (November 2010). Each composition was applied to the skin in the form of a homogeneous and regular deposit of 2 mg / cm 2. SPF was evaluated from the erythemal biological response induced between 16 to 24 hours after UV exposure.

The stability of the prepared emulsions was evaluated by macroscopic and microscopic observations of their appearance and by measurement of their viscosity. An emulsion is considered stable when its macroscopic and microscopic appearance, pH and viscosity do not vary for 1 month at 45 ° C. Protocol for Evaluating the Viscosity of the Compositions The viscosity of the compositions prepared was measured at 25 ° C. using a Rhéomat 180 (Société LAMY), equipped with a mobile MS-R1, MS-R2, MS- R3, MS-R4 or MS-R5 selected according to the consistency of the composition, rotating at a rotation speed of 200 rpm. Results The results of Table 1 show that the combination of the specific surfactants of the invention makes it possible to obtain a composition 1 in the form of an emulsion that is both stable and fluid. Moreover, this composition 1 has a high SPF protection level (63.4 ± 3.7). The composition of Example 1 is characterized by droplets having a size of between 500 nm and 10 μm (evaluation using an optical microscope and image analysis) and a viscosity of less than 170 mPa.s at 25 nm. ° C.

For surfactant combinations not comprising all of the surfactants of the invention, the performance in terms of stability and viscosity is lower than that of the combination of the invention. Table 1 In vivo SPF Examples Stability Viscosity (mPa. $) Example 1 63.4 ± 3.7 +++ 107 Comparative 1 / --- 189 Comparative 2 / --- 115 Comparative 3 / --- 115 25 The in vivo filtering efficiency of the examples outside the invention has not been evaluated because these compositions are not stable.

Claims (16)

REVENDICATIONS1. A composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: a) a continuous aqueous phase, b) an oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase, and c) at least one surfactant mixture, said mixture comprising: i. at least one modified inulin, selected from the group consisting of inulins modified with C4-C32 alkyl carbamate groups and inulins modified with C4-C32 alkyl ester groups, ii. at least one alkaline salt of phosphoric acid ester and C14-C36 fatty alcohol, and iii. at least one C 12 -C 30 fatty acid ester and glycerol, and d) at least one UV filter, said composition having a viscosity of less than 170 mPa.s at 25 ° C. The composition of claim 1, wherein the modified inulin is an inulin modified with C6-C24 alkyl carbamate groups. 3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the modified inulin is an inulin lauryl carbamate. 4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the alkali salt of phosphoric acid ester and C14-C36 fatty alcohol is the potassium salt of monocetyl phosphate. 5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the C 12 -C 30 fatty acid ester and glycerol is glyceryl monostearate. 6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, comprising a mixture of inulin lauryl carbamate, potassium salt of monocetyl phosphate and glyceryl monostearate. 7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the UV filter is selected from hydrophilic, lipophilic, insoluble organic UV filters, inorganic pigments, and mixtures thereof. 3021536 33 The composition of claim 1, wherein the UV filter is selected from the group consisting of: Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, and their mixtures. The composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, comprising from 0.1% to 15% by weight of modified inulin selected from the group consisting of C4-C32 alkyl carbamate-modified inulins and modified inulins. C4-C32 alkyl ester groups relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, comprising from 0.1% to 15% by weight of alkaline salt of phosphoric acid ester and of C14-C36 fatty alcohol relative to the total weight of the composition. 11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, comprising from 0.1% to 15% by weight C 12 -C 30 fatty acid ester and glycerol relative to the total weight of the composition. 25 12. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 11, comprising: from 0.1% to 45% by weight of UV filter (s), from 5% to 95% by weight of oily phase, and from 5% to 95% by weight. % by weight of aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition. 13. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition according to one of claims 1 to 12. 3021536 34 14. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of a keratinous material consisting in applying to the surface of said keratinous material at least one cosmetic composition according to claim 13. 5 15. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the color and / or homogeneity of the complex comprising the application to the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition according to claim 13. 16. A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratinous material comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition according to claim 13.