FR3098716A1 - Process for treating keratin fibers combining a composition comprising an alkaline agent and the use of a cooling medium - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers comprising a first step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition comprising at least one alkaline agent, then a second step of applying to the ketratin fibers a cooling means. coming into contact with keratin fibers.

Description

Process for treating keratin fibers combining a composition comprising an alkaline agent and the use of a cooling means

The present invention relates to a method for treating keratin fibers comprising a first step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition comprising at least one alkaline agent, then a second step of applying to the keratin fibers a cooling means coming into contact with the keratin fibres.

context

Many people are unhappy with the way their hair looks, especially people with curly hair most often seek straight hair and conversely those with straight hair want curly hair.

In order to change the shape of the hair permanently, it is possible in particular to use a technique consisting in carrying out a so-called lanthionization operation using a composition comprising a base belonging to the family of hydroxides. It leads to the replacement of disulphide bonds (-CH ₂ -SS-CH ₂ -) by lanthionine bonds (-CH ₂ -S-CH ₂ -).

It is carried out in a single step and allows indifferently to achieve either the waving of the hair, or their shaping or their uncurling or their smoothing. This technique is mainly used for shaping naturally frizzy hair.

However, the hydroxides used during this process have the major drawback of being caustic. This causticity can in some cases affect the scalp and also affect the surface condition of the hair. Indeed, following such treatment, the hair may seem rough to the touch and its surface may be visually irregular.

It is in principle not possible to combine such a permanent hair reshaping treatment with a conventional mechanical treatment involving the use of heat such as brushing, straightening iron or hot brush in order to improve the visual and tactile appearance of the hair. hair thus shaped.

There are certainly cold straightening tools that can be used as a hair styling tool. Mention may in particular be made of the cooling straightening iron of the Inverse ® brand marketed by the company Roholm Limited. The technical characteristics of such an iron are described in particular in patent application US2017/0127784. However, these tools used alone do not allow a permanent deformation of the hair.

There is therefore a real need to develop a process for permanently deforming the hair, in particular for straightening or straightening the hair, making it possible to improve the visual and tactile appearance of the hair thus shaped, the process being simple and quick to implement, the deformation being characterized by a good remanence to shampoos and being durable in particular in a humid atmosphere.

The applicant has surprisingly discovered that all of these objectives can be achieved by the process according to the present invention.

Abstract

According to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is a method for treating keratin fibers comprising the following successive steps:
i) application to the keratin fibers of a composition (A) comprising at least one alkaline agent; and
ii) application of a cooling means coming into contact with the keratin fibers in order to reduce the temperature of the keratin fibers.

According to a second aspect, the subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of composition (A) as defined above associated with a cooling treatment of the keratin fibers using a cooling means coming into contact with the keratin fibers for the permanent reshaping of keratin fibers, preferably for smoothing or straightening keratin fibers.

According to a third aspect, the subject of the present invention is a kit for treating keratin fibers comprising a first and a second compartment respectively comprising a composition (A) as defined above and a cooling means coming into contact with the keratin fibers

detailed description

By “process for permanently reshaping keratin fibers” is meant the processes for perming, smoothing or straightening keratin fibers.

By "keratin fibers" is meant fibers of human or animal origin such as hair, body hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, wool, angora, cashmere or fur. According to the present invention, the keratin fibers are preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably the hair.

By "successive steps", we mean steps implemented in the order indicated.

By "fat" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013.10 ⁵ Pa), having a solubility in water of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight. They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran ( THF), vaseline oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. The fatty substances of the invention are not etherified by oxyalkylenated or glycerolated groups. Preferably, they do not contain any COOH carboxylic acid function in their structure.

By "liquid" is meant a liquid compound at a temperature of 30° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, ie 1.013.10 ⁵ Pa). Preferably, this compound has a viscosity of less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, preferably less than or equal to 1 Pa.s, more preferably less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s measured at a temperature of 25° C. and at a rate shear of 1 s ^-1 .

“Non-liquid” means a compound that is non-liquid at a temperature of 30° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, ie 1.013.10 ⁵ Pa). Preferably, this compound is solid or has a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s measured at a temperature of 25° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s ⁻¹ .

By "hydrocarbon" is meant a compound comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.

By "fatty alcohol" is meant an aliphatic alcohol, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH.

By "fatty acid" is meant a carboxylic acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms .

By "fatty ester" is meant a fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol ester.

By “fatty ether”, is meant a compound of formula R-O-R′ in which R and R′ represent, independently of one another, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms.

By "non-silicone" is meant a compound whose structure does not include a silicon atom and therefore does not include in particular a siloxane group.

By "wax" is meant a lipophilic compound, solid at ordinary room temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013.10 ⁵ Pa), with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a temperature of melting above approximately 40°C and possibly up to 200°C, and exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. In general, the size of the crystals of the wax is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter the light, giving the composition which comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, which is microscopically detectable and macroscopically (opalescence).

The terms "at least one" and "one or more" are synonymous and may be used interchangeably.

Treatment method

According to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is a method for treating keratin fibers as defined above. The method according to the present invention is particularly advantageous in that it makes it possible to combine a conventional hair deformation treatment comprising a lanthionization step with a mechanical treatment. The visual and tactile aspect of the hair following the process is thus improved. In addition, the deformation of the hair is persistent in shampoos and durable, in particular in a humid atmosphere.

In the process according to the present invention, it is essential that steps i) and ii) are successive, that is to say that step ii) is implemented after step i). The method may comprise one or more additional steps between steps i) and ii) but even in such an embodiment, step ii) is always implemented after step i).

Step ii) can be implemented directly after step i).

Composition (A) can be applied during step i) at a temperature ranging from 20°C to 45°C, preferably from 20°C to 30°C.

Preferably, composition (A) is applied to dry keratin fibres.

Preferably, the amount of composition (A) applied to the keratin fibers ranges from 1 g to 15 g of composition (A) per gram of keratin fibers.

The method may further comprise between steps i) and ii), a step i′) consisting in leaving the composition (A) on the fibers for a period ranging from 3 to 30 min, preferably from 5 min to 20 min .

The exposure time can be performed under an occlusive system. By way of non-limiting example of an occlusive system, mention may be made of an occlusive system of the aluminum foil or plastic film type.

Preferably, the process is a process for the permanent deformation of keratin fibers. More preferably, the process is a process for smoothing or straightening keratin fibers.

Preferably, the cooling means is maintained at a temperature ranging from -20°C to 15°C. More preferably, the cooling means is maintained at a temperature ranging from -15°C to 15°C. Even more preferably, the cooling means is maintained at a temperature ranging from -15°C to 0°C.

cooling medium

By "iron" is meant a device comprising two elements connected in a pivoting manner making it possible to pinch the keratin fibers together in order to shape them. The surfaces of the two elements that can come into contact with the keratin fibers can be metallic. These surfaces can be smooth or notched.

By "cooling iron" is meant an iron whose application to the keratin fibers makes it possible to reduce the temperature of the keratin fibers.

Preferably, the cooling means is a keratin fiber shaping tool.

More preferably, the cooling means is chosen from cooling irons, cooling curlers and cooling combs. Even more preferably, the cooling means is chosen from cooling irons and cooling curlers. Even more preferably, the cooling means is chosen from cooling irons.

The application of the cooling iron can be carried out by successive touches separated by a few seconds, or by displacement or progressive sliding along the locks.

Preferably, the application of the cooling iron in the process according to the invention is done in continuous movement from the root to the tip, in one or more passes, for example in 1 to 20 passes.

By way of example of cooling irons which can be used in the method according to the invention, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the cooling straightening iron of the Inverse® brand marketed by the company Roholm Limited. The technical characteristics of such an iron are described in particular in patent application US2017/0127784.

By way of example of cooling curlers that can be used in the method according to the invention, mention may be made of the cooling curlers described in particular in patent application US2017/0127784.

By way of example of a cooling comb that can be used in the method according to the present invention, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of a metal comb cooled using liquid nitrogen or placed in the freezer before use.

Rinse and/or wash step

The method may also comprise a step of rinsing and/or washing the keratin fibers after step ii).

Rinsing can be done with water or with an aqueous solution of an oxidizing agent. By way of non-limiting example of an aqueous solution of an oxidizing agent, mention may be made of an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide.

Washing can be done with shampoo. It is possible in particular to use a neutralizing shampoo.

alkaline agent

The alkaline agent can be chosen from mineral hydroxides. Preferably, the alkaline agent can be chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the alkaline agent can be chosen from sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, hydroxide manganese, zinc hydroxide and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, the alkaline agent is sodium hydroxide.

The alkaline agent can be chosen from the compounds of formula (III) below, their organic or inorganic salts, their hydroxides and their mixtures:

in which R1, R2, R3, R4, R5 represent, independently of each other:
(i) a hydrogen atom or
(ii) a C1-C4 lower alkyl or alkenyl radical, linear or branched, optionally substituted by one or 2 radicals chosen from: hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, methoxy, ethoxy, carboxyl, carboxamide, N-methylcarboxamide or SO3H,
when R1, R2 and R3 and R4 represent a hydrogen atom, R5 can also denote an acetyl radical; chloroacetyl; carboxamide; methoxy; ethoxy; 1,2,4-triazolyl; cyclopentyl; methoxycarbonyl; ethoxycarbonyl; CO-CH=CH-COOH; phenyl optionally substituted by a chlorine atom or a hydroxyl radical; benzyl; thiazolidone; benzimidazole; benzoxazole; benzothiazole; or C(=NH)-NR6R7 in which R6 and R7 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 lower alkyl radical, linear or branched, optionally substituted by one or 2 radicals chosen from: hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl or carboxamide; or N-methylcarboxamide; or a phenyl radical,
when R1=R2=R3=H, R4 and R5 can also form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, a pyrrolidine, piperidine, pyrazole or 1,2,4-triazole ring optionally substituted by 1 or 2 chosen radicals pami: hydroxyl, amino or carboxyl,
when R1=R2=H, and R4=H or methyl, R3 and R5 may also together form a 5-membered ring optionally containing an oxo group.

Preferably, the compounds of formula (III) are chosen from:
- guanidine, hydrochloride;
- guanidine, acetate;
- guanidine, sulphate;
- guanidine, carbonate;
- guanidine, bicarbonate;
- guanidine, phosphate;
- guanidine, sulfamate;
- aminoguanidine, hydrochloride;
- aminoguanidine, sulphate;
- aminoguanidine, bicarbonate;
- 1,3-diaminoguanidine, hydrochloride;
- guanylurea, phosphate;
- 1-methylguanidine, hydrochloride;
- 1,1-dimethylguanidine, hydrochloride;
- 1-ethylguanidine, hydrochloride;
- creatine, monohydrate;
- creatinine, hydrochloride;
- agmatine;
- agmatine, sulphate;
- guanidinoacetic acid;
- guanidinosuccinic acid;
- 3-guanidinopropionic acid;
- beta-N-methylguanidinopropionic acid;
- N-methylguanidinopropionic acid;
- N-(2-hydroxyethyl)guanidine;
- N-(3-hydroxypropyl)guanidine;
- biguanide, hydrochloride;
- N-methyl biguanide, hydrochloride;
- N-ethyl biguanide, hydrochloride;
- 1,1-dimethylbiguanide, hydrochloride;
- 1,1,3,3-tetramethylguanidine;
- 1,1,3,3-tetramethylguanidine, hydrochloride;
- 2-tert-butyl-1,1,3,3-tetramethylguanidine, hydrochloride;
- L-arginine;
- DL-arginine;
- arginic acid;
- N-amidino-N-(2,3-dihydroxypropyl)glycine;
- N-amidinotaurine;
- 2-imino-1-imidazolidineacetic acid;
- 1H-pyrazole-1-carboxamidine, hydrochloride;
- 3,5-diamino-1H-1,2,4-triazole-1-carboximidamide, hydrochloride;
- 2-guanidone-4-thiazolidone;
- guanidinium hydroxide;
- and mixtures thereof.

Guanidinium hydroxide is generally obtained by mixing, at the time of use, a composition comprising guanidine carbonate with a composition comprising calcium hydroxide.

Preferably, the compounds of formula (III) are chosen from guanidinium hydroxide, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylguanidine and their mixture. More preferably, the alkaline agent is guanidinium hydroxide.

Total content of alkaline agents

Composition (A) may have a total content of alkaline agents ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A) .

Composition pH (A)

Preferably, composition (A) has a pH ranging from 10 to 14. More preferentially, composition (A) has a pH ranging from 12 to 14.

Fat body

Composition (A) may also comprise at least one fatty substance.

Preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, non-silicone waxes, silicones, fatty ethers and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, silicones, fatty ethers and mixtures thereof.

Fats can be liquid or non-liquid.

In the case where composition (A) further comprises at least one liquid fatty substance, the latter is preferably chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, silicones, fatty ethers and mixtures thereof.

In the case where composition (A) further comprises at least one non-liquid fatty substance, the latter is preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty esters, non-silicone waxes, silicones, fatty ethers, and mixtures thereof. , non-liquid, preferably solid.

Hydrocarbon ( s )

Hydrocarbons can be liquid or non-liquid.

The liquid hydrocarbons can be chosen from:

- C ₆ -C ₁₆ lower alkanes, linear or branched, possibly cyclic. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane,

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of animal or synthetic mineral origin with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam ®, squalane.

In a preferred variant, the liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly and mixtures thereof.

Fatty alcohol(s)

Fatty alcohols can be liquid or non-liquid.

Liquid fatty alcohol(s)

The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention can be saturated or unsaturated.

Alcohol ( s ) saturated fat ( s ) liquid(s)

The liquid saturated fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally include in their structure at least one aromatic ring or not. Preferably, they are acyclic.

More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol. Octyldodecanol is most particularly preferred.

Liquid unsaturated fatty alcohol(s)

Liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond.

Preferably, they have in their structure one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, they are preferably 2 or 3 in number and they may or may not be conjugated.

Liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They may optionally include in their structure at least one aromatic ring or not. Preferably, they are acyclic.

More particularly, the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleic (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleic (or linoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenyl) alcohol, undecylenic alcohol. Oleic alcohol is particularly preferred.

Fatty alcohol(s) non liquid(s)

The non-liquid fatty alcohols suitable for the implementation of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetyl stearyl alcohol).

Ester ( s ) fat

Fatty esters can be liquid or non-liquid.

Ester( s) fat liquid(s)

The liquid fatty esters are preferably the liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic mono or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, the number total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the liquid esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the liquid monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, isononanoate of ethylhexyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate.

It is also possible to use the liquid esters of di or tricarboxylic acids in C ₄ -C ₂₂ and of alcohols in C ₁ -C ₂₂ and the esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar alcohols di, tri, tetra or C ₄ -C ₂₆ pentahydroxy.

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; di(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; di(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; di(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; trisostearyl citrate glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononate.

Composition (A) may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, esters and di-esters of sugars of C ₆ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and derivatives thereof. in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and of fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of C ₆ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , linear fatty acids. or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or their mixtures such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

More particularly, the mono- and di-esters and in particular the mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose are used.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Finally, it is also possible to use natural or synthetic liquid esters of mono, di or triacids with glycerol. Among these, mention may be made of vegetable oils.

As oils of vegetable origin or synthetic triglycerides, which can be used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty esters, mention may be made, for example, of triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor bean, avocado, coconut, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Cremer Oleo, jojoba oil, shea butter oil.

Preferably, liquid fatty esters derived from monoalcohols will be used as fatty esters according to the invention. Myristate or palmitate or isopropyl stearate are particularly preferred.

Non-liquid fatty ester(s)

The non-liquid fatty esters can be chosen from solid esters derived from C ₉ -C ₂₆ fatty acids and from C ₉ -C ₂₆ fatty alcohols.

Among these esters, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; stearyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; myristyl stearate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; alkyl myristates such as cetyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate; hexyl stearate.

Still in the context of this variant, it is also possible to use the esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ di or tricarboxylic acids and of C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols and the esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols. C ₂ -C ₂₆ di, tri, tetra or pentahydroxy.

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; dioctyl maleate.

Among all the additional esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, myristyl myristate.

Non-silicone wax(es)

The non-silicone waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, in particular of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; Rice Bran Wax, Carnauba Wax, Candelilla Wax, Ouricury Wax, Alfa Wax, Berry Wax, Shellac Wax, Japan Wax, and Sumac Wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, carnauba wax, candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as essential blackcurrant flower wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and their mixtures.

Silicon(s)

Silicones can be liquid or non-liquid, volatile or non-volatile.

The silicones that can be used can be soluble or insoluble in composition (A) . They can be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

Silicones are in particular described in detail in Walter NOLL's work "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press.

The volatile silicones can be chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 and 260° C. (at atmospheric pressure), more particularly from:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as:
- octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
Mention may be made of the products marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA.
- cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type with a chemical structure:

Mention may be made of "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.
- mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa-2, 2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;
(ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 ^-6 m ² /s at 25° C., such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

Other silicones falling into this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; mention may be made of the product marketed under the name “SH 200” by the company TORAY SILICONE.

Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or even organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, amino groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylenated groups, or polyoxypropylene.

The organomodified silicones can be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes comprising:
- polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene groups optionally comprising C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl groups such as dimethicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or SILWET® L 722, L 7500 oils , L 77, L 711 from UNION CARBIDE; or alternatively (C ₁₂ )alkyl-methicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200;
- substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, in particular C ₁ -C ₄ aminoalkyl groups; mention may be made of the products marketed under the name GP4 Silicone Fluid and GP7100 by the company GENESEE, or under the names Q2-8220 and DC929 or DC939 by the company DOW CORNING;
- thiol groups, such as the products marketed under the names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" from GENESEE;
- alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT;
- hydroxyl groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with a hydroxyalkyl function;
- acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in US-A-4957732
- anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as for example described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or else of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255"
- hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in application EP342834; mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2-8413 from the company DOW CORNING.

The silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products:
- SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA;
- oils of the 200 series from DOW CORNING, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm ² /s;
- VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA.

In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products marketed under the names “ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801” by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C ₁ -C ₂₀ ) siloxanes.

Products which can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
- the mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of the chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2-1401 marketed by the company DOW CORNING.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1.10 ^-5 to 5.10 ^-2 m²/s at 25°C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the products marketed under the following names:
- SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA;
- the oils of the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;
- DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;
- BAYER's PK series silicones such as the PK20 product;
- the silicones of the PN and PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products;
- certain oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC's SF series such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

Fatty ethers

Fatty ethers can be liquid or non-liquid.

The liquid fatty ethers can be chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether.

The non-liquid fatty ethers can be are chosen from dialkyl ethers and in particular dicetyl ether, and distearyl ether, alone or as a mixture.

Preferred embodiments

According to a preferred embodiment, composition (A) comprises at least one liquid fatty substance, optionally combined with at least one non-liquid fatty substance.

Preferably, the fatty substance included in composition (A) is chosen from vegetable oils, liquid hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the fatty substance included in composition (A) is chosen from mineral oils. Even more preferentially, the fatty substance included in composition (A) is vaseline oil.

Composition (A) may comprise, as fatty substance, at least one mineral oil and at least one fatty alcohol, the fatty alcohol preferably being cetylstearyl alcohol.

The composition(AT)may comprise a total fat content greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition(AT). Preferably, the composition(AT)comprises a total fat content greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition(AT). More preferably, the composition(AT)comprises a total fat content greater than or equal to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition(AT). Even more preferentially, the composition(AT) comprises a total fat content ranging from 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition(AT).

Surfactants

Composition (A) may comprise at least one surfactant. The surfactant can be chosen from cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the surfactant is chosen from nonionic or anionic surfactants.

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO ₂ H, CO ₂ ^- , SO ₃ H, SO ₃ ^- , OSO ₃ H, OSO ₃ ^- , H ₂ PO ₃ , HPO ₃ ^- , PO ₃ ^2- , H ₂ PO ₂ , HPO ₂ , HPO ₂ ^- , PO ₂ ^- , POH , PO ^- .

As examples of anionic surfactants which can be used in composition (A) according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamidoether sulphates, alkylarylpolyether sulphates, monoglyceride-sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkylamide sulphonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of monoesters of alkyl and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside-uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl amidoether carboxylic acids; and the corresponding unsalified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group designating a phenyl group.

These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C _6-24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C _6-24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C _6-24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C _6-24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates.

When the anionic surfactants are in salt form, they can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular salts of amino alcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may in particular be made of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanol-amine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1 -propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane.

Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

The anionic surfactants are preferably chosen from sodium alkyl sulphates.

The nonionic surfactants are more particularly chosen from mono or polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated, oxypropylene units, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated.

As examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of:
- alkyl (C₈-VS₂₄) oxyalkylenated phenols;
- C alcohols₈-VS₃₀, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ethers of C fatty alcohols₈-VS₃₀ ;
- amides, in C₈-VS₃₀, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated;
- C acid esters₈-VS₃₀, saturated or not, linear or branched, and polyethylene glycols;
- C acid esters₈-VS₃₀, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and polyoxyethylenated sorbitol;
- oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not;
- ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide condensates, among others;
- alkylpolyglycosides;
- derivatives of N-alkyl glucamine;
- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene polydimethylsiloxanes;
- or mixtures thereof.

The nonionic surfactants can have a number of moles of ethylene and/or propylene oxide of between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 50. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not comprise oxypropylene units.

Composition (A) may comprise a total content of surfactants greater than or equal to 5%, preferably ranging from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A) .

Composition (A) may optionally comprise at least one solvent chosen from water, C ₂ -C ₄ alcohols, polyols, polyol ethers and mixtures thereof, preferably water.

Composition (A) may also comprise at least one cosmetic ingredient chosen from vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, fillers, pearlescent agents, opacifying agents, sequestering agents, film-forming polymers, cationic, anionic polymers or neutral, associative polymers, plasticizing agents, thickening agents, antifoaming agents, moisturizing agents, emollient agents, penetrating agents, perfumes, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

Use

A subject of the present invention is also the cosmetic use of composition (A) as defined above associated with a cooling treatment of the keratin fibers using respectively a cooling means coming into contact with the keratin fibers to permanent reshaping of keratin fibres, preferably for smoothing or straightening keratin fibres.

The technical characteristics described above concerning the cooling means also apply to the use according to the present invention.

set

A subject of the present invention is also a kit for treating keratin fibers comprising a first and a second compartment respectively comprising a composition (A) as defined above and a cooling means coming into contact with the keratin fibers. The technical characteristics described above concerning the cooling means also apply to the kit according to the present invention.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without however being limiting.

Examples

The quantities are indicated in mass percentage unless otherwise indicated.

The following composition was prepared:

Membership 1 :
Ingredients Quantities Petrolatum 16.0% paraffinum liquidum 16.0% Cetylstearyl alcohol 8.0% Sodium hydroxide 1.9% PEG-75 Lanolin 1.0% Oleth-10 0.5% Shea Butter 0.1% Cocoa butter 0.1% Cocamidopropyl Betaine 0.24% Butylene Glycol 1.5% Hexylene Glycol 1.5% Polysorbate 60 2.0% Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey 0.05% sodium chloride 0.04% Water Qsp 100%

This composition includes sodium hydroxide as an alkaline agent.

Example 1
Composition 1 was tested according to the procedure described below.

Procedure:
Apply 10 g/g hair of composition 1 to a lock of type IV curly natural hair. Leave on for 15 minutes. Carry out 20 passes lasting 10 s each with a cooling straightening iron of the Inverse ® brand marketed by the company Roholm Limited maintained at a temperature of -15°C. Rinse with water (15 passages of 20 s under water). Comb through then leave to dry at room temperature.

Comparative example 1
Composition 1 was tested according to the procedure described below.

Procedure:
Apply 10 g/g hair of composition 1 to a lock of type IV curly natural hair. Leave on for 15 minutes. Rinse with water (15 passages of 20 s under water). Comb through then leave to dry at room temperature.

Findings:
The lock of hair tested according to example 1 (application of the cooling straightening iron) has an improved visual smoothness compared with the lock tested according to comparative example 1 (without application of the cooling straightening iron). There is also an improved smooth touch.

Claims (17)

Process for treating keratin fibers comprising the following successive steps:
i) application to the keratin fibers of a composition(AT)comprising at least one alkaline agent; and
ii) application of a cooling means coming into contact with the keratin fibers in order to reduce the temperature of the keratin fibers. Process according to Claim 1, in which the process is a process for the permanent deformation of the keratin fibres, preferably a process for smoothing or straightening the keratin fibres. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the cooling means is maintained at a temperature ranging from -20°C to 15°C, preferably ranging from -15°C to 15°C, more preferably ranging from - 15°C to 0°C. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the cooling means is a tool for shaping keratin fibres, preferably chosen from cooling irons, cooling curlers and cooling combs, more preferably from cooling irons and cooling curlers, even more preferably among cooling irons. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the alkaline agent is chosen from mineral hydroxides, preferably from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides and mixtures thereof, more preferably from sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, zinc hydroxide and their mixtures, even more preferably the alkaline agent is sodium hydroxide Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the alkaline agent is chosen from the compounds of formula(III)following, their organic or inorganic salts, their hydroxides and mixtures thereof:


in which R1, R2, R3, R4, R5 represent, independently of each other:
(i) a hydrogen atom or
(ii) a C1-C4 lower alkyl or alkenyl radical, linear or branched, optionally substituted by one or 2 radicals chosen from: hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, methoxy, ethoxy, carboxyl, carboxamide, N-methylcarboxamide or SO3H,
when R1, R2 and R3 and R4 represent a hydrogen atom, R5 can also denote an acetyl radical; chloroacetyl; carboxamide; methoxy; ethoxy; 1,2,4-triazolyl; cyclopentyl; methoxycarbonyl; ethoxycarbonyl; CO-CH=CH-COOH; phenyl optionally substituted by a chlorine atom or a hydroxyl radical; benzyl; thiazolidone; benzimidazole; benzoxazole; benzothiazole; or C(=NH)-NR6R7 in which R6 and R7 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 lower alkyl radical, linear or branched, optionally substituted by one or 2 radicals chosen from: hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl or carboxamide; or N-methylcarboxamide; or a phenyl radical,
when R1=R2=R3=H, R4 and R5 can also form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, a pyrrolidine, piperidine, pyrazole or 1,2,4-triazole ring optionally substituted by 1 or 2 chosen radicals pami: hydroxyl, amino or carboxyl,
when R1=R2=H, and R4=H or methyl, R3 and R5 can also together form a 5-membered ring optionally containing an oxo group. Process according to Claim 6, in which the compounds of formula(III)are chosen from:
- guanidine, hydrochloride;
- guanidine, acetate;
- guanidine, sulphate;
- guanidine, carbonate;
- guanidine, bicarbonate;
- guanidine, phosphate;
- guanidine, sulfamate;
- aminoguanidine, hydrochloride;
- aminoguanidine, sulphate;
- aminoguanidine, bicarbonate;
- 1,3-diaminoguanidine, hydrochloride;
- guanylurea, phosphate;
- 1-methylguanidine, hydrochloride;
- 1,1-dimethylguanidine, hydrochloride;
- 1-ethylguanidine, hydrochloride;
- creatine, monohydrate;
- creatinine, hydrochloride;
- agmatine;
- agmatine, sulphate;
- guanidinoacetic acid;
- guanidinosuccinic acid;
- 3-guanidinopropionic acid;
- beta-N-methylguanidinopropionic acid;
- N-methylguanidinopropionic acid;
- N-(2-hydroxyethyl)guanidine;
- N-(3-hydroxypropyl)guanidine;
- biguanide, hydrochloride;
- N-methyl biguanide, hydrochloride;
- N-ethyl biguanide, hydrochloride;
- 1,1-dimethylbiguanide, hydrochloride;
- 1,1,3,3-tetramethylguanidine;
- 1,1,3,3-tetramethylguanidine, hydrochloride;
- 2-tert-butyl-1,1,3,3-tetramethylguanidine, hydrochloride;
- L-arginine;
- DL-arginine;
- arginic acid;
- N-amidino-N-(2,3-dihydroxypropyl)glycine;
- N-amidinotaurine;
- 2-imino-1-imidazolidineacetic acid;
- 1H-pyrazole-1-carboxamidine, hydrochloride;
- 3,5-diamino-1H-1,2,4-triazole-1-carboximidamide, hydrochloride;
- 2-guanidone-4-thiazolidone;
- guanidinium hydroxide;
- and mixtures thereof;
preferably from guanidinium hydroxide, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylguanidine and their mixture, more preferably guanidium hydroxide. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition(AT)has a pH ranging from 10 to 14, preferably from 12 to 14. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition(AT)further comprises at least one fatty substance. Process according to the preceding claim, in which the fatty substance is chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, non-silicone waxes, silicones, fatty ethers and mixtures thereof, preferably from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, silicones, fatty ethers and mixtures thereof. Process according to Claim 9, in which the fatty substance is chosen from vegetable oils, liquid hydrocarbons and their mixtures, preferably from mineral oils, more preferably vaseline oil. Process according to Claim 9, in which the fatty substance is chosen from fatty alcohols, preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. Process according to any one of claims 9 to 12, in which the composition(AT)comprises a total fat content greater than or equal to 1%, preferably greater than or equal to 10%, more preferably greater than or equal to 30%, even more preferably ranging from 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition(AT). Process according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising between step i) and ii) a step i′) consisting in allowing the composition to set(AT)on the fibers for a period ranging from 3 min to 30 min, preferably from 5 min to 20 min. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the process further comprises a step of rinsing and/or washing the keratin fibers after step ii). Cosmetic use of the composition(AT)as defined in any one of the preceding claims associated with a cooling treatment of the keratin fibers using a cooling means coming into contact with the keratin fibers for the permanent deformation of the keratin fibers, preferably for smoothing or the straightening of keratin fibres. Keratin fiber treatment kit comprising a first and a second compartment comprising respectively:
- a composition(AT)as defined in any one of the preceding claims; and
- a cooling means coming into contact with the keratin fibres.