FR3083107A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION HAVING A FROST ASPECT - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in an aqueous phase: a. at least one C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starch, b. at least one starch phosphate, c. at least one sodium polyacrylate, and d. at least one non-starch polysaccharide; wherein the total concentration of C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starch and starch phosphate is less than 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the mass ratio [C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starch / starch phosphate] is at least 2. The present invention further relates to a cosmetic treatment process for the skin comprising the application of the composition according to the invention, in particular for the care, cleaning and / or make-up removal from the skin.

Description

The present invention further relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin comprising the application of the composition according to the invention, in particular for the care, cleansing and / or removal of makeup from the skin.

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Cosmetic composition having a frosted appearance

The present invention relates to the field of skin care compositions, more particularly that of skin cleansing compositions and in particular facial skin cleansing masks.

Products of the beauty mask type are well known in the cosmetic field. These beauty masks consist of films which form on application to the treated skin and which after drying with a certain pause time are eliminated by rinsing, by massage with the fingers or removal of the excess using 'tissue.

They can be in the form of gel, emulsion or paste. It is thus described in the literature, for example in “Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations”, Second edition, Ernest W. Flick 1992, various formulas of this type of mask. However, the preferred dosage form for the preparation of compositions of the cleaning mask type is generally a dosage form of the aqueous gel type.

Indeed, this aqueous galenic gel provides a light and fresh feeling on application and during the pause time.

Another advantage of the galenics of aqueous gels produced from starch is the obtaining of cosmetic compositions having an attractive texture and appearance, in particular a frosted texture.

However, with these aqueous gels, problems with linting appear in particular after the step of drying the mask on the skin. Thus, when the consumer wishes to make the excess penetrate by massage or remove it using a tissue and / or by rinsing, he is confronted with an unpleasant phenomenon of lint on the skin, having the main drawback of slowing down and to make the final cleaning step more difficult.

This is particularly the case for the cosmetic compositions described in the document FR3046069 comprising at least 7.5% starch.

There therefore remains a need for products of the beauty mask type devoid of the aforementioned drawbacks while retaining an attractive appearance for the consumer, in particular a frosted appearance, and also having good stability properties.

For this, the Applicant has found that the combination of at least four hydrophilic gelling agents such as a C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starch, a starch phosphate, a sodium polyacrylate as well as a non-starch polysaccharide allows '' obtain a composition having a frosted texture, causing a low formation of fluff during the step of penetration of the composition by massage or removal using a tissue and / or by rinsing, as well as better penetration of the composition within the skin. Furthermore, this combination makes it possible to obtain good stability properties of the composition.

Thus, the first subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in an aqueous phase:

a) at least one (C1-C4) carboxyalkyl starch,

b) at least one starch phosphate,

c) at least one sodium polyacrylate, and

d) at least one non-starchy polysaccharide;

wherein the total concentration of C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starch and starch phosphate is less than 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the mass ratio [C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starch / starch phosphate] is at least 2.

In addition, the present invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin comprising the following steps:

a) applying the composition according to the invention to the skin; then

b) leave on for a sufficient period of time; then

c) penetrate by massage with your fingers or remove with a tissue and / or by rinsing said composition applied in step a).

The treatment method according to the invention relates in particular to the care, cleansing and / or makeup removal of the skin.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention does not flow under the effect of its own weight at room temperature (25 ° C) after 30 minutes. In particular, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity ranging from 4 to 20 Pa.s, measured at 25 ° C. using the Rheomat RM180 from Rheometric Scientific at 200 revolutions per minute, 10 minutes after the mobile is rotated. M4.

Even better, the viscosity of the composition according to the invention is between 6 and 15 Pa.s.

Definitions

The term “cosmetic composition” means a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with the skin.

By "the skin" is meant the whole of the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, neckline, neck, arms and forearms, or even more preferably the skin of the face, especially forehead, nose, cheeks, chin, eye area.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “frosted texture” means a composition having a granular appearance, which melts on the skin during application. Such a frosted texture is characterized in particular by the presence of agglomerates distributed homogeneously in the composition. These agglomerates are especially obtained with the two starches described above.

The size of these agglomerates can be characterized by measuring their sizes using an optical microscope sold by the company HIROX. In particular, the size of these starch agglomerates is between 15 and 250 μm, preferably between 50 and 200 μm, even better between 100 and 150 μm.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "good stability properties" means a composition having little or no variation in its organoleptic characteristics (appearance, color, odor, texture, etc.), its viscosity and / or having no no phase shift phenomena at a temperature of 55 ° C for a period of at least 10 days, and / or after 2 months at 45 ° C, and / or 4 ° C and / or 37 ° C and / or not having no oily release phenomenon on the surface after centrifugation.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "better penetration" means an improved absorption speed of the composition under the effect of a massage with the fingers, 15 turns maximum, for an applied amount of 0.65 g at the level of the hand surface for 1 min.

For the purposes of the present invention, "plush" also means particles. Lint is therefore particles capable of forming during and / or after application of the composition to the skin. They come from the aggregation of solid objects constituting the composition after evaporation of part of the constituents.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “opaque” means a non-transparent composition which does not allow light to pass through.

Detailed description of the invention

Cosmetic composition

C1-C4 starch carboxyalkyl

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one (C1-C4) carboxyalkyl starch. These compounds are obtained by grafting carboxyalkyl groups onto one or more alcohol functions of the starch, in particular by reaction of starch and sodium monochloroacetate in an alkaline medium.

The carboxyalkyl groups are generally fixed via an ether function, more particularly on carbon 1. The degree of substitution in carboxyalkyl unit of the carboxyalkyl in (C1-C4) starch preferably ranges from 0.1 to 1 , and more particularly from 0.15 to 0.5. The degree of substitution is defined according to the present invention as being the average number of hydroxyl groups substituted by an ester or ether group per mono-saccharide unit of the polysaccharide.

The C1-C4 carboxyalkyls of starch are advantageously used in the form of salts and in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts such as Na, K, Li, NH4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine such than mono, di or triethanolamine. The (C1-C4) starch carboxyalkyls are advantageously in the context of the present invention carboxymethyl starches. The carboxymethyl starches preferably comprise units of formula (I) below:

(I) in which X, linked or not covalently to the carboxylic unit, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal such as Na, K, Li, NH4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine such as for example such as mono, di or triethanolamine.

Preferably, X denotes a Na ⁺ cation. The C1-C4 carboxyalkyls of starch which can be used according to the present invention are preferably the C1-C4 carboxyalkyls of starch which are not pre-gelatinized. The C1-C4 carboxyalkyl of starch which can be used according to the present invention are preferably the C1-C4 carboxyalkyl of starch crosslinked, partially or totally.

In general, a C1-C4 carboxyalkyl of crosslinked starch, in contrast to a C1-C4 carboxyalkyl of non-crosslinked starch, has an increased, controllable viscosity and increased stability. Cross-linking thus makes it possible to reduce the phenomena of syneresis and to increase the resistance of the gel to the effects of shearing.

The C1-C4 carboxyalkyls of starch considered according to the invention are more particularly C1-C4 carboxyalkyls of potato starch. Thus, the C1-C4 carboxyalkyls of starch which can be used according to the present invention are preferably sodium salts of C1-C4 carboxyalkyl of starch, in particular a sodium salt of carboxymethyl potato starch sold in particular under the name PRIMOJEL® by the company DMV International or GLYCOLYS® and GLYCOLYS® LV by the Company Roquette.

The C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starch according to the invention can be present in a concentration of between 1% and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Starch phosphate

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one starch phosphate.

Within the meaning of the present invention, starch phosphate means the products resulting from the esterification of a starch with a phosphorus derivative leading to the formation of at least one ester bond between the phosphorus derivative and at least one hydroxyl group of starch.

Thus, it is possible in particular to obtain, by crosslinking with phosphorus-containing compounds, diamidon phosphates (of the Am-O-PO- (OX) -O-Am type) or even of triamidon (of the Am-0-P0- (0- Am) 2) or mixtures thereof.

X denotes in particular the alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), the alkaline earth metals (for example calcium, magnesium), the ammonia salts, the salts of amines such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-amino-propanediol-1,2, ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline.

The phosphorus compounds can be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.

The starch molecules can come from all vegetable sources of starch such as corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above.

According to the invention, the starch phosphates can optionally be C1-C6 hydroxyalkylated (hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl) by an etherification reaction or C1-C6 acylated (acetyl) by an esterification reaction.

Advantageously, the starch phosphate according to the invention is pregelatinized, in particular by bursting the starch granules (for example by drying and cooking in a drying drum).

In a preferred embodiment, the starch phosphate according to the invention is a crosslinked, pre-gelatinized and C1-C6 hydroxyalkylated starch phosphate, preferably hydroxypropylated.

Starch phosphates are represented for example by the products sold under the names C * StabiTex-lnstant® (pre-gelatinized phosphate), C * PolarTexTM® (hydroxypropylated diamidon phosphate), C * StabiTexTM® (diamidon phosphate, phosphate acetylated diamidon) by the company Cargill, by diamidon phosphates or compounds rich in diamidon phosphate such as the product offered under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL® (hydroxypropylated cassava diamidon phosphate) or PREJEL TK1® (gelatinized cassava diamidon phosphate) or PREJEL 200® (gelatinized acetylated cassava diamidon phosphate) by the company AVEBE, STRUCTURE ZEA® by AKZO NOBEL (gelatinized corn diamidon phosphate), STRUCTURE XL® by AKZO NOBEL (phosphate gelatinized corn diamidon), STRUCTURE 6892® from AKZO NOBEL (corn diamidon phosphate).

In a particular embodiment, the starch phosphate used in the context of the present invention is a gelatinized corn diamidon phosphate such as that sold under the name STRUCTURE ZEA® by the company AKZO NOBEL.

The starch phosphates described above can advantageously be present in an amount of 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 2%, even better from 0.5 % to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the total concentration of C1-C4 carboxyalkyl of starch and starch phosphate is less than 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 5% by weight, better still less than 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total concentration of C1-C4 carboxyalkyl of starch and starch phosphate is between 2.5% and 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 3% and 5%, even better between 3% and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition

The mass ratio [C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starch / starch phosphate] is preferably at least 2.5.

In a particular embodiment, the mass ratio [carboxyalkyl starch / starch phosphate] is between 2 and 5, preferably the mass ratio is between 2.5 and 4.

Sodium polyacrylate

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one sodium polyacrylate.

Sodium polyacrylates are acrylic homopolymers or copolymers in partially or fully neutralized form.

According to a particular mode, they are hydrophilic.

According to the invention, the term “hydrophilic polymer” designates a non-amphiphilic polymer which is soluble and capable of being dispersible in water.

Advantageously, the sodium polyacrylates according to the invention are not superabsorbent.

The term "superabsorbent polymer" means a polymer which, in its dry state, can spontaneously absorb at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular water and in particular distilled water. Such super absorbent polymers are described in the book Absorbent polymer technology, Studies in polymer science 8 by L. BRANNON-PAPPAS and R. HARLAND, Elsevier edition, 1990.

With regard to these acrylic polymers already neutralized before use, or otherwise, examples which may be mentioned include:

i. uncrosslinked sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the name Cosmedia SP® containing 90% solids and 10% water, or Cosmedia SPL® as reverse emulsion containing approximately 60% dry active materials, an oil (hydrogenated Polydecene ) and a surfactant (PPG-5 LAURETH-5), both sold by the company Cognis;

ii. partially neutralized crosslinked sodium polyacrylates which are in the form of a reverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example the product sold under the name Luvigel® EM sold by the company BASF, and iii. their mixtures.

A polymer of acrylic acid which has not been neutralized in advance can be neutralized by any suitable means and especially by adding sodium hydroxide. Sodium polacrylates are thus obtained.

Neutralization can be carried out before use in the composition of the invention if the polymer in question is sold in a non-neutralized form. On the other hand, for some of them, neutralization is inherent in the starting material. This is particularly the case for Luvigel ® EM and for the products named Cosmedia ® SP and SPL, which are already partially neutralized.

The neutralization step with the sodium counterions is important for giving the acid polymers their gelling properties and therefore for stabilizing the composition. Said acrylic polymers are converted into corresponding acrylate polymers during this neutralization step. Said acrylic monomers of the acrylic polymer according to the invention can be neutralized in a proportion of 5% to 80%.

The acrylic polymer (s) according to the invention does not comprise any monomer other than a partially or totally neutralized acrylic acid.

According to a particular embodiment, the homopolymer or copolymer of acrylic acid may be in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, known as a reverse emulsion. This reverse emulsion can be obtained, for example, by polymerization of reverse emulsion.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer used is a partially neutralized sodium polyacrylic which is in the form of a reverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil. Among the oils, mention may be made of fatty acid esters. Examples of these fatty acid esters are isopropyl esters of fatty acids, such as isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate, or polyglycerides of fatty acids, in particular mixtures of fatty acids comprising at least 50% of capric acid and / or caprylic acid. These water-in-oil emulsions are described in document US 6,197,283.

According to this embodiment, the oily phase may consist of one or more fatty acid esters, one or more fatty acid polyglycerides based on a mixture of polyglycerides, which contains diglycerides and triglycerides, with mixtures of fatty acids, which contain caprylic acid and / or capric acid, preferably in a proportion of at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty acids.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the oil content of the reverse emulsion is between 15% and 70% by weight and in particular between 20% and 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the reverse emulsion .

Mention may in particular be made of Luvigel® EM, the oily phase of which comprises between 20% and 30% of C8-C10 triglycerides, that is to say the fatty acids which are a mixture of caprylic and capric acid.

In addition, the water-in-oil emulsion may contain from 0.25% to 7% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight of a surfactant.

The at least partially neutralized acrylic polymer may be present in the inverse emulsion in a content varying from 20% to 70% by weight, in particular from 20% to 65% by weight, for example from 20% to 62% by weight relative to the total weight of the reverse emulsion.

In particular, according to one embodiment of the invention, the at least partially neutralized acrylic polymer may be present in the reverse emulsion in a content varying from 20% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion reverse.

According to another embodiment, the at least partially neutralized acrylic polymer may be present in the reverse emulsion in a content varying from 50% to 62% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the water-in-oil formulation of such a polymer, the oily phase can then consist of one or more esters of fatty acids as described above.

The at least partially neutralized homopolymer (s) or copolymer (s) may or may not be crosslinked.

When they are crosslinked The crosslinking of acrylic acid can be obtained according to any method known to those skilled in the art, in particular according to the description of document US 6,197,283 or according to the description of document US 6,444,785 which mentions the crosslinking agents usable.

Among them are compounds comprising unsaturation soluble in water or in oil. Such crosslinking agents are in particular methylenbisacrylamide, divinylpyrrolidone, alkyl (meth) acrylate, triallylamine, ethylenglycol diacrylates (up to 50 EO), (meth) acrylic esters with di- or polyhydric alcohols such as trimethylolpropane triacrylate or pentaerythritol tetraacrylate.

According to one embodiment, the crosslinking agent is soluble in water.

According to another embodiment, the crosslinking agent is thallylamine.

Advantageously, the polymer according to the invention is an at least partially neutralized non-crosslinked homopolymer.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the sodium polyacrylate used in the context of the present invention is a fully neutralized and non-crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer such as that sold under the name Cosmedia® SP by the company BASF.

The sodium polyacrylates described above can advantageously be present in an amount of 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 1% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition.

Non-starchy polysaccharides

The non-starch polysaccharides according to the invention can be chosen from xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, carrageenans, cellulose polymers such as methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyalkylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses, guar gums, gellan gums and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the hydroxyalkylcelluloses and ethylhydroxyalkylcelluloses have a C1-C4 alkyl group, even better in C1-C3.

The non-starchy polysaccharide according to the invention can be used in an amount of 0.005% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.25% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Xanthan gum

Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure consists of a main chain of β-D-glucoses linked in β (1,4), similar to cellulose. One in two glucose molecules carries a trisaccharide side chain composed of an α-D-mannose, a β-D-glucuronic acid and a terminal β-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on carbon 6. About 30% of the terminal mannose residues carry a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6. The glucuronic acids and the charged pyruvic acids are ionizable, and therefore responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge up to pH equal to 1). The content of pyruvate and acetate residues varies according to the bacteria strain, the fermentation process, the conditions after fermentation and the purification steps. These groups can be neutralized in commercial products with Na ⁺ , K ⁺ or Ca ²⁺ ions (Société SATIA, 1986). The neutralized form can be converted to the acid form by ion exchange or by dialysis of an acid solution.

Xanthan gums have a molecular weight between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000 and a viscosity between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% xanthan gum (measured at 25 ° C using a Brookfield viscometer, LVT type at 60 rpm).

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Xanthan gums are represented for example by the products sold under the names Rhodicare® by the company RHODIA CHIMIE, under the name SATIAXANE ™ by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry), under the name NOVAXAN ™ by ADM, and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by CP-Kelco.

Carracihénanes

Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the families of Gigartinacae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units linked alternately by a (1,3) and β (1,4) bonds. These are highly sulfated polysaccharides (20-50%) and the a-Dgalactopyranosyles residues can be in the 3,6-anhydro form. Depending on the number and position of ester-sulfate groups on the repeating disaccharide of the molecule, there are several types of carrageenans, namely: kappa-carrageenans which have an ester-sulfate group, iota-carrageenans which have two ester groups -sulfate and lambda-carrageenans which have three ester-sulfate groups.

Carrageenans are mainly composed of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and / or calcium salts and esters of polysaccharide sulfates.

Carrageenans are sold in particular by the company Seppic under the name of Solagum®, by the company Gelymar under the name of Carragel®, Carralact®, and Carrasol®, by the company Cargill, under the names SATIAGEL ™ and SATIAGUM ™, and by CP-Kelco under the names GENULACTA®, GENUGEL® and GENUVISCO®.

Alginate compound

By "alginate-based compound" is meant within the meaning of the invention, alginic acid, alginic acid derivatives and alginic acid salts (alginates) or of said derivatives.

Preferably, the alginate-based compound is water-soluble.

Alginic acid, a natural substance derived from brown algae or certain bacteria, is a polyuronic acid composed of 2 uronic acids linked by (1,4) glycosidic bonds: β-D-manuronic acid (M) and a-Lglucuronic acid (G).

Alginic acid is able to form water-soluble salts (alginates) with alkali metals such as sodium, potassium, lithium, substituted amine and lower ammonium cations such as methylamine, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, thethanolamine. These alginates are water-soluble in an aqueous medium at a pH equal to 4 but dissociate into alginic acid at a pH below 4.

This alginate compound (s) is (are) able to crosslink in the presence of at least one crosslinking agent, by formation of ionic bonds between the said compound (s) ( s) based on alginate and the said crosslinking agent (s). The formation of multiple crosslinks between several molecules of the alginate-based compound (s) results in the formation of a water-insoluble gel.

Use is preferably made of alginate-based compounds having a weight average molecular weight ranging from 10,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 15,000 to 500,000, and better still from 20,000 to 250,000.

According to a preferred embodiment, the alginate-based compound is alginic acid and / or one of its salts.

Advantageously, the alginate-based compound is an alginate salt, and preferably sodium alginate.

The alginate-based compound can be modified chemically, in particular by urea or urethane groups, or by the reaction of hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphatation, amination, d amidation, alkylation, or by several of these modifications.

The derivatives obtained can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

The alginate compounds suitable for the invention can be represented, for example, by the products sold under the names

KELCOSOL®, SATIALGINE ™, CECALGUM ™ or ALGOGEL ™ by the company Cargill products, under the name Protanal ™ by the company FMC Biopolymer, under the name GRINDSTED® Alginate by the company Danisco, under the name KIMICA ALGIN® by the company KIMICA, and under the names Manucol® and Manugel® by the company ISP.

Cellulose polymers

The polysaccharide according to the invention can also be a cellulose polymer, in particular cellulose ethers or esters (e.g. methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose nitrate, nitrocellulose).

The cellulose polymers can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic. Advantageously, the cellulose polymers used in the context of the present invention are anionic or nonionic.

Among these derivatives, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; hydroxyalkyl-alkylcellulose mixed celluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.

Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of carboxyalkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts.

Among the cellulose polymers, mention may also be made of:

- celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as for example hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl groups, in particular C8-C22, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, such as NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS® (Cw alkyls) sold by the company AQUALON, and

- celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkyl phenol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500® (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the company AMERCHOL.

Among the cellulose esters, there are inorganic cellulose esters (nitrates, sulfates, or cellulose phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetate trimellitates, etc.). ) and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as acetate butyratesulfates and cellulose acetate propionatesulfates. Among the cellulose ether esters, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

The cellulose polymers of the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses and substituted celluloses.

The cellulose polymers are represented for example by the products sold under the names Avicel® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company FMC Biopolymers, under the name Cekol® (carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Noviant (CP-Kelco), under the name Akucell AF (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Akzo Nobel, under the name MethocelTM (cellulose ethers) and Ethoce ITM® (ethylcellulose) by the company DOW, under the names Aqualon® (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose), Benecel® (methylcellulose) , BlanoseTM (carboxymethylcellulose), Culminai® (Methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose), Klucel® (hydroxypropylcellulose), Polysurf® (cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose) and Natrosol® CS (hydroxyethylcellulose) by the company Hercules Aqualon.

Ciuar gum

Guar gum is characterized by a mannose: galactose ratio of around 2: 1. The galactose group is regularly distributed along the mannose chain.

The guar gums which can be used according to the invention can be nonionic, cationic or anionic. According to the invention, chemically modified or unmodified nonionic guar gums can be used.

Unmodified non-ionic guar gums are for example the products sold under the name Vidogum GH®, Vidogum G® and Vidocrem® by the company Unipektin and under the name Jaguar® by the company Rhodia, under the name Meypro® Guar by the Danisco, under the name VISCOGUM ™ by the company Cargill, and under the name Supercol® guar gum by the company Aqualon.

Hydrolysed nonionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention are for example represented by the products sold under the name Meyprodor® by the company Danisco.

The modified nonionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention are preferably modified with C hydroxy-C hydroxy hydroxyalkyl groups, among which, by way of example, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups may be mentioned.

Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names Jaguar HP 60®, Jaguar HP 105® and Jaguar HP 120® (hydroxypropyl guar), by the company Rhodia, or under the name N-Hance® HP (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company AQUALON.

The anionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic, sulfenic, phosphoric, phosphonic or pyruvic acid. Preferably, the anionic group is a carboxylic acid group. The anionic group can also be in the form of an acid salt, in particular a sodium, calcium, lithium or potassium salt.

The anionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention are preferably derivatives of carboxymethylated guar (carboxymethyl guar or carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar).

Ciellan gum

Gellan gum is an anionic linear heteropolyoside based on oligoside units composed of 4 oses (tetraoside). D-glucose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid in 2: 1: 1 proportions are present in gellan gum as monomeric elements.

It is for example sold under the name KELCOGEL CG LA® by the company CP KELCO.

Additional compounds

surfactant

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one surfactant, preferably at least one nonionic surfactant.

Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants can be chosen from:

a) your esters of (poly) glycerol comprising from 1 to 10 glycerol unit (s) and fatty acid (s) linear or branched, saturated (s) or unsaturated (C6-C24) , preferably in C8-C18:

at. monoesters of glycerol and of linear or branched fatty acid, saturated or unsaturated with C6-C24, preferably with C8-C18, mention may, for example, be made of glyceryl oleate, for example that sold by COGNIS under the name of Monomuls 90- 0 18; glyceryl stearate, for example that sold by COGNIS under the name of Cutina GMS V; glyceryl caprylate / caprate, for example that sold by STEPAN under the name of Stepan Mild GCC; glyceryl laurate such as, for example, that sold by COGNIS under the name of Monomuls 90-L 12;

b. monoesters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched fatty acid, saturated or unsaturated, of C6-C24, preferably of C8-C18, preferably of C12-C18, mention may, for example, be made of polyglyceryl- 3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate such as that sold by CRODA under the name of Arlacel 1690; polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, for example that sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the name of Isolan Gl 34; 3-polyglyceryl ricinoleate such as that sold by AARHUSKARLSHAMN under the name of Akoline PGPR; 2-polyglyceryl oleate, for example that sold by TAIYO KAGAKll under the name Sunsoft Q17B; 2-polyglyceryl caprylate such as that sold by TAIYO KAGAKll under the name Sunsoft Q-81B; 2-polyglyceryl laurate, for example that sold by TAIYO KAGAKll under the name Sunsoft Q-12D;

vs. polyglycerol diesters comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and from linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, of C6-C24, preferably of C8-C18, mention may in particular be made of 2-polyglyceryl-distearate, for example that sold by NIHON EMULSION under the name of Emalex PGSA, polyglyceryl-6 distearate such as for example that sold by ABITEC CORPORATION under the name of Caprol 6G2S or else that sold by GATTEFOSSE under the name of Plurol stearic WL 1009;

d. polyglycerol triesters comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and from linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, of C6-C24, preferably of C8-C18, mention may be made, for example, of 5-polyglyceryl trioleate such as for example that sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name of SunSoft A-173E; 5-polyglyceryl trimyristate such as that sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name of Sunsoft A143E;

e. polyglycerol pentaesters comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and from linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, of C6-C24, preferably of C8-C18, mention may be made, for example, of 10-polyglyceryl pentaoleate, for example that sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name of Sunsoft Q-175S; polyglyceryl-10 pentasterearate such as that sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name of Sunsoft Q185S;

f. polyglycerol hexaesters comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and from linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, C6-C24, preferably C8-C18: polyglyceryl-5 hexastearate such as that sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name of Sunsoft A186E;

g. polyglycerol heptaesters comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, of C6-C24, preferably of C8-C18, mention may be made, for example, of polyglyceryl-10 heptaoleate, for example that sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name of Sunsoft Q-177S;

h. polyglycerol decaesters comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and from linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, of C6-C24, preferably of C8-C18, mention may be made, for example, of polyglyceryl-10 decastearate, for example that sold by TAIYO KAGAKll under the name of SunSoft Q-1810S;

/. polyesters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, of C6-C24, preferably of C8-C18, mention may be made, for example, of polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, for example that sold by NIKKOL under the name of Hexaglyn PR-15; polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, for example that sold by CRODA under the name of Crester PR;

j. esters of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and of solid wax chosen from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, cane wax, cane wax Ouricuri, beeswax and Shellac wax, preferably a polyglycerol ester comprising 3 glycerol units and beeswax, for example that sold by JAN DEKKER INTERNATIONAL under the name of Cera Beilina;

b) polyglycerol esters comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and from linear or branched hydroxylated ciras polyacids, saturated or unsaturated with C6-C24, preferably with C12-C24, such as polyglycerol diesters comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and hydroxylated polyacids, in particular from 5 to 25 hydroxylated C12-C24 fatty acids, preferably from 6 to 15 hydroxylated C16-C20 fatty acids, mention may in particular be made of 2-polyglyceryl-dipolyhydroxystearate, for example that sold by COGNIS under the name of Dehymuls PGPH;

c) polyglycerol ethers comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol and fatty alcohol units of C6-C24, preferably of C8-C18, mention may, for example, be made of 2-polyglyceryl oleyl ether, for example that sold by CHIMEX under the name of Chimexane NB; 4-polyglyceryl oleyl ether such as, for example, that sold by CHIMEX under the name of Chimexane NC;

d) esters of sorbitol and / or sorbitan and of linear or branched fatty acid (s), preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, in C6-C24 , preferably in C10-C22, preferably in C12-C18, mention may especially be made of sorbitan tristearate, for example that sold by CRODA under the name of Span 65; sorbitan sesquioleate, for example that sold by CRODA under the name of Arlacel 83 V; sorbitan isostearate such as for example that sold by CRODA under the name of Arlacel 987; sorbitan oleate, for example that sold by CRODA under the name of Span 80 V; sorbitan stearate such as, for example, that sold by COGNIS under the name Dehymuls SMS; sorbitan laurate such as, for example, that sold by COGNIS under the name Dehymuls SML, sorbitan palmitate, such as, for example, that sold by CRODA under the name of Span 40;

e) the esters of sucrose and of C12-C18 ciras acid, mention may in particular be made of sucrose polystearate, for example that sold by SISTERNA under the name of Sisterna SP10-C; sucrose distearate, for example that sold by CRODA under the name of Crodesta F-10;

f) esters of methylglucose and of linear or branched C12-C18 ciras acid such as, for example, methyl glucose isostearate, for example that sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the name of Isolan IS; polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate, for example that sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the name Tego Care 450.

q) the ethers of glucose and alcohol ciras C12-C22, such as for example cetearyl glucoside (and) ceterayl alcohol such as for example that sold by COGNIS under the name of Emulgade PL 68/50;

h) esters of glycol or of polyethylene glycol and of fatty acid C12-C22, preferably C16-C18, such as glycol stearate such as for example that sold by CRODA under the name EGMS N / E; PEG-2 stearate such as for example that sold by CRODA under the name of Cithrol DEGMS N / E;

if the alkylpolyçilvcosides of general formula (II):

R (O) (G) '(II) in which the radical R is a linear or branched C6-C30 alkyl radical preferably C12-C22, G is a saccharide residue and x varies from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5 and more preferably 1.1 to 2.

The saccharide residue can be chosen from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucane, cellulose or starch. More preferably, the saccharide residue denotes glucose.

It should also be noted that each unit of the polysaccharide part of the alkylpolyglycoside can be in isome a or β form, in L or D form and the configuration of the saccharide residue can be of the furanoside or pyranoside type.

It is of course possible to use mixtures of alkylpolyosides, which may differ from each other by the nature of the alkyl unit carried and / or the nature of the carrier polysaccharide chain.

In particular, mention may be made of alkylpolyglycosides containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising 1.2 to 3 saccharide units. Mention may be made, for example, of decylglucoside such as alkyl-C9 / C11polyglucoside (1.4) in aqueous solution at 40%, such as the product sold under the name MYDOL 10® by the company Kao Chemicals, alkyl-C10 / C12 / C14 85/10/5-polyglucoside (1.4) in 55% aqueous solution such as the product sold under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by the company Seppic; and caprylyl / caprylglucoside such as C-alkyl / C8 / C10 50/50 / polyglucoside (2) in 60% aqueous solution such as the product sold under the name ORAMIX CG 110® by the company Seppic.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the alkylpolyglycoside can be used in admixture with at least one fatty alcohol, in particular a fatty alcohol having from to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

In addition, it is particularly advantageous, according to the present invention, to jointly use a fatty alcohol and an alkylpolyglycoside, the alkyl part of which is identical to that of the retained fatty alcohol.

Among the particularly preferred fatty alcohol / alkylpolyglycoside mixtures, mention may be made of the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names MONTANOV® such as the following mixtures:

- Cetylstearyl alcohol / Cocoglucoside - MONTANOV 82®

- Arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol / arachidylglucoside - MONTANOV 802®

- Myristyl alcohol / Myristylglucoside - MONTANOV 14®

- Cetylstearyl alcohol / Cetylstearylglucoside - MONTANOV 68®

- C14-C22 / C12-C20 alcohol alkylglucoside - MONTANOV L®

- Cocoalcohol / Coco-glucoside - MONTANOV S®

- Isostearyl alcohol / osteearlglucoside - MONTANOV WO 18®.

j) and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the invention, the nonionic surfactants used in the context of the present invention are chosen from esters of (poly) glycerol comprising from 1 to 10 glycerol unit (s) and of acid (s) ) linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated or C6-C24, preferably C8-C18 fatty acids, the alkylpolyglycosides of general formula (II), preferably the alkylpolyglycosides containing an alkyl group comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising 1.2 to 3 units of saccharide optionally in mixture with a fatty alcohol comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; and their mixtures.

In a first particularly preferred embodiment, the nonionic surfactant is a mixture of polyglycerol esters comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and beeswax and from a polyglycerol diester comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and d 'linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C8-C18 fatty acids. This mixture can also comprise a fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and / or and a wax such as jojoba wax.

We can mention the product sold by the company Gattefosse under the name Emulium Mellifera®, comprising jojoba wax, cetyl alcohol, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, and polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (and) Cetyl alcohol).

Said mixture comprises in particular from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said mixture of jojoba wax, from 3 to 15% by weight of cetyl alcohol, at least 50% by weight of 6-polyglyceryl distearate, and of 3 to 15% by weight polyglyceryl-3 beeswax.

According to a second embodiment, the nonionic surfactant is chosen from the methylglucose and linear or branched fatty acid esters of C12-C18, in particular methyl glucose distearate polyglyceryl-3 such as for example that sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under name of Tego Care 450, alkylpolyglycosides containing an alkyl group containing from 14 to 18 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising 1.2 to 3 units of saccharide optionally in mixture with a fatty alcohol containing from 14 to 18 atoms carbon such as that sold by SEPPIC under the name MONTANOV 68®.

According to a third embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of nonionic surfactants comprising:

a) at least one polyglycerol ester comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and beeswax;

b) at least one polyglycerol diester comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, of C8-C18; and

c) at least one ester of methylglucose and of linear or branched C12-C18 fatty acid;

and optionally at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and / or and at least one wax such as jojoba wax.

The surfactant (s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total concentration of between 0.1% and 10% by weight, better from 1.5% to 5% by weight, even better from 2% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Within the aforementioned third embodiment:

a) said polyglycerol ester comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and beeswax is present in a concentration of between 0.05% and 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

b) said polyglycerol diester comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, in C8-C18 is present in a concentration of between 0.1% and 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and

c) said methylglucose and linear or branched C12C18 fatty acid ester is present in a concentration of between 0.1% and 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

and optionally said fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms is present in a concentration between 0.05% and 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and / or said wax is present in a concentration between 0.05% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fat phase

The composition according to the invention can also comprise an oily phase.

By “fatty phase” is meant all of the liposoluble or lipodispersible compounds present in the composition, including fatty substances liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) or oils (which form the oily phase), fatty substances solid at ambient temperature such as waxes, or pasty compounds, fatty alcohols, fatty acids.

In a first embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not include an fatty phase.

In a second embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises an oily phase. When it comprises a fatty phase, the composition according to the invention is preferably a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

In this second mode, the composition according to the invention can comprise a fatty phase, which can be present at less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at less than 10% by weight, even better less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In this mode, in a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention can comprise, an oil which can be present in a content ranging from

0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight and better still from 2% to 8% by weight.

As oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, there may be mentioned for example:

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

- hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as the liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or also, for example, jojoba, babassu, sunflower oils , olive, coconut, brazil nut, marula, corn, soy, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia nut, arara , coriander, castor, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those marketed by the company Stearineries Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, butter butter oil shea;

- synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R ¹ COOR ² and R ¹ OR ² in which R ¹ represents the remainder of a fatty acid or of a fatty alcohol comprising of 8 with 29 carbon atoms, and R ² represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, Purcellin oil, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2 erucate -dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythhtol esters such as pentaerythrytyl tetraisostearate;

linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam® oil;

- silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatile or not with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular volatile silicone oils, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethyl-siloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenyls;

- their mixtures.

The following oils can also be mentioned:

- the esters resulting from the reaction of at least one fatty acid containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 26 carbon atoms and better still from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, still better still from 6 to 16 carbon atoms and at least one alcohol comprising from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and better still from 3 to 15 carbon atoms; there may be mentioned in particular isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl2-hexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms,

- the diesters of carbonic acid and of fatty alcohol comprising from 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as that which is marketed under the name CETIOL CC by the company COGNIS,

- fatty alcohol ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE from Cognis),

- glycerol ethers comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms such as 2-ethyl hexyl glycerol ether (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerin) such as Sensiva SC 50 from the company Schulke & Mayr GmbH.

Preferably, the oily phase of the composition comprises an oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, linear or branched hydrocarbons, or even ester oils.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and / or water-soluble organic solvents such as polyols.

The composition according to the invention may comprise water in a concentration ranging from 40% to 90% by weight, better from 50% to 80% by weight, even better from 60% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of composition.

The aqueous phase of the composition of the invention may comprise an organic solvent soluble in water, chosen for example from lower mono-alcohols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and in particular from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as l ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, and polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as for example glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, l hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, pentylene glycol, propanediol and their mixtures are used.

The amount of water-soluble organic solvent can range, for example, from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, better still from 10% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition.

admixtures

The composition according to the invention can also comprise the adjuvants usual in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as coloring matters, of type pigments or water-soluble dyes, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, hydrating active agents. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

Cosmetic treatment process and uses

The present invention further relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin comprising the following steps:

a) applying the composition according to the invention to the skin; then

b) leave on for a sufficient period of time; then

c) penetrate by massage with your fingers or remove with a tissue and / or by rinsing said composition applied in step a).

The term "sufficient period of time" means a period conventionally used in the field of cosmetic compositions to be applied in the form of a mask, in particular a period of at least 2 minutes, preferably between 5 and 10 minutes.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is applied in step a) in an amount of between 0.005 and 0.02 g / cm ² of skin.

The cosmetic treatment process is more particularly a cosmetic treatment process for caring for, cleaning and / or removing make-up from the skin.

The examples which follow illustrate the invention, and are given purely by way of nonlimiting illustration.

In what follows, the percentages are given by weight unless otherwise stated.

The expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ...", "at least of .." or "at most of" must be understood inclusive, unless the contrary is specified.

The examples and figures which follow are offered by way of nonlimiting illustration of the field of the invention.

Examples

A composition No. 1 was prepared according to the invention and a composition No. 2 outside the invention.

Composition No. 1 according to the invention comprises carboxymethyl starch, pregelatinized hydroxpropyl corn diamidon phosphate, sodium polyacrylate and xanthan gum, with a ratio [carboxymethyl starch / diamidon phosphate] of 3.6 and a total concentration of carboxymethyl starch and diamidon phosphate 3.6% by weight.

Composition No. 2 outside the invention comprises the above-mentioned 4 compounds with a [carboxymethyl starch / diamidon phosphate] ratio of 1.33 and a total concentration of carboxymethyl starch and diamidon phosphate of 7% by weight.

phases INCI names Composition according to invention n ° 1 (m / m) Composition outside invention n ° 2 (m / m) AT GLYCERIN 10 10 B POLYACRYLATE SODIUM (1) 1 1 B XANTHANGUM (2) 0.86 1 VS CARBOXYM ETH YLAMI SODIUM DONATION (3) 2.81 4 VS DIAMIDON PHOSPHATE OF MAIZE HYDROXYPROPYLE PREGELATINIZED (4) 0.79 3 B POLYGLYCERYL-6 DISTEARATE (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) CETYL ALCOHOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 BEESWAX (5) 1.5 1.5 B Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose DI STEARATE (6) 1 1 AT CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.35 0.35 B ISOPROPYL PALMITATE 4 4 D ETHANOL 4 4 AT DYES 0.02 0.02 B PERFUME 0.3 0.3 AT WATER Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Mass ratio [SODIUM CARBOXYMETHYLAMIDON (3) / DIAMIDON PHOSPHATE OF MAIZE HYDROXYPROPYLE PREGELATINIZED (4)] 3.6 1.33

Weight concentration [SODIUM CARBOXYMETHYLAMIDON (3) + DIAMIDON PHOSPHATE OF MAIZE HYDROXYPROPYLE PREGELATINIZED (4)] 3.6 7

(1) COS MEDI A SP 90% by weight of active material of sodium polyacrylate marketed by the company BASF;

(2) RHODICARE CFT marketed by RHODIA (SOLVAY);

(3) GLYCOLYS 94%> by weight of sodium carboxymethyl starch active ingredient marketed by the company ROQUETTE;

(4) ZEA STRUCTURE 88% by weight of pregelatinized corn diamidon phosphate active ingredient sold by the company AKZO NOBEL;

(5) EMULIUM MELLIFERA: mixture of 64%> by weight of polyglyceryl-6 distearate, 19% by weight of jojoba esters, 8.5%> by weight of cetyl alcohol, 8.5%> by weight of 3-polyglyceryl beeswax marketed by the company GATTEFOSSE;

(6) TEGO CARE 450 marketed by the company EVONIK.

Method of manufacturing the composition:

Compositions 1 and 2 were prepared as follows.

The components of phase A are homogenized with stirring and the whole is heated to a temperature of 50 ° C to 55 ° C. To this heated mixture are added the components of B premixed beforehand and heated to a temperature of 50 ° C to 55 ° C. The compounds of phase C are then added. The whole is kept under stirring until emulsion, heating and total hydration of the two starches (i.e. until gelation).

This level of hydration being reached, the mixture is cooled to a temperature of 22 ° C to 23 ° C still with stirring.

At 22 ° C, the compound of phase D is added.

Viscosity measurement:

The viscosity is measured at 25 ° C. using the Rheomat RM180 from Rheometric Scientific at 200 rpm (revolutions per minute), 10 minutes after the M4 mobile has started to rotate.

The results are presented in the table below:

Composition No. 1 according to the invention Composition No. 2 outside the invention Viscosity at T10 minutes (Poise) 45 78

Composition assessment:

a) Evaluation of the ç / drunk aspect of compositions n ° 1 (according to the invention) and 2 (outside the invention)

The frosted aspect was assessed by a visual assessment (pre-established atlas) by a panel of 3 people.

The following notation from 1 to 5 is used:

= Absence of frost-granite appearance

5 = Frost-granite appearance very strongly present

The results are presented in the table below:

Composition No. 1 according to the invention Composition No. 2 outside the invention Frost-granite appearance 3 4

Conclusion: the above results show that compositions # 1 and 2 have a frost-granite appearance.

b) Evaluation of the fluffing of compositions n ° 1 (according to the invention) and 2 (outside the invention)

The assessment of the fluff potential was carried out using an elastomeric polymeric support covered with a polyurethane film.

For each compositions 1 and 2 we proceed as follows:

• Deposit 50 pL of product on the elastomer support • Make 15 laps in 15 seconds • Wait 15 seconds • Repeat 15 laps in 15 seconds • Wait 2 minutes • Make 5 energetic laps by pressing hard

The following notation from 1 to 5 is used:

= No lint

5 = Very strong presence of fluff

The results are presented in the table below:

Composition No. 1 according to the invention Composition No. 2 outside the invention stuffed animals 3.5 5

Conclusion: the above results show that composition no. 2 outside the invention lint strongly when applied to the skin, unlike composition no. 1 according to the invention.

c) Evaluation of the penetration speed of compositions no. 1 (according to the invention) and 2 (outside the invention)

0.65 g of each of compositions 1 and 2 was applied in a thin layer on the back of the hand, followed by one minute of drying, then the number of turns is determined, allowing total penetration of the product. This method makes it possible to reproduce a gesture of application of a face mask by the consumer.

The greater the number of revolutions, the longer the penetration of the product.

The results indicated in number of laps are mentioned in the table below:

Composition No. 1 according to the invention Composition No. 2 outside the invention Penetration speed (in number of turns) 8 24

Conclusion: the above results show that composition # 1 according to the invention penetrates faster than composition # 2 outside the invention.

d) Evaluation of the opacity and the homogeneity of compositions n ° 1 (according to the invention) and 2 (outside the invention)

The opaque nature and the homogeneity of compositions 1 and 2 are evaluated by preparing a 300 μm film on a contrast card having a white part and a black part using an automatic spreader. It is left to dry for 1 hour at room temperature (20-25 ° C). The analysis of the opaque character and of the homogeneity is then carried out by visual analysis with a notation in 3 points.

The following notation is used:

= Not opaque 1 = heterogeneous

2 = opaque 2 = not very homogeneous

3 = Very opaque 3 = homogeneous

The results are presented in the table below:

Composition No. 1 according to the invention Composition No. 2 outside the invention Opacity 2 2 Homogeneity 2.5 2

Conclusion: the results above show that compositions # 1 and 2 have an opaque appearance. Composition No. 1 according to the invention has a slightly more homogeneous appearance than that of composition No. 2 outside the invention.

e) Evaluation of the stability of compositions no. 1 (according to the invention) and 2 (outside the invention)

The stability of the two compositions was evaluated by an ultracentrifugation test combined with a test under accelerated conditions (10 days at 55 ° C.): these two tests make it possible to simulate accelerated aging.

1) Ultracentrifugation test:

After centrifugation, the presence or absence of release or settling phenomenon is checked by direct observation.

The centrifuge used is a centrifuge of the brand EPENDORF model MINISPIN and its specificities of use are as follows:

- Time: 30 min at 13,400 rpm (simulating 12,000 G)

- Ambient temperature

- Tube: Conical plastic (REF 0030 120.094 / Ependorf / 2 ml)

- Weight: 3g

The following notation was used:

1 = absence of release or decantation phenomenon

2 = slight salting out and / or slight decantation

3 = presence of salting out and / or decantation

2) Stability test at 55 ° C for 10 days

Compositions 1 and 2 are placed in an oven at 55 ° C for 10 days. We then check the presence or absence of release or decantation phenomenon by direct observation.

The following notation was used:

1 = absence of release or decantation phenomenon

2 = presence of salting out and / or decantation

The results are presented in the table below:

Composition No. 1 according to the invention Composition No. 2 outside the invention Ultracentrifugation test 1 1 Stability test at 55 ° C 10 days 1 1

Conclusion: compositions 1 and 2 exhibit good stability.

General conclusion: Composition n ° 1 according to the invention has good stability properties, a frost-granite and opaque appearance, is homogeneous, and has a significantly improved penetration speed compared to composition n ° 2 (outside the invention) , as well as a decrease in the fluff potential compared to composition no. 2 (outside the invention).

Claims (10)

1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in an aqueous phase: at. at least one C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starch, b. at least one starch phosphate, vs. at least one sodium polyacrylate, and d. at least one non-starch polysaccharide; wherein the total concentration of C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starch and starch phosphate is less than 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the mass ratio [C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starch / starch phosphate] is at least 2. 2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the mass ratio [C1-C4 carboxyalkyl of starch / starch phosphate] is at least 2.5, preferably the mass ratio [carboxyalkyl of C1-C4 of starch / starch phosphate] is between 2 and 5, even better between 2.5 and 4. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total concentration of C1-C4 carboxyalkyl of starch and starch phosphate is between 2.5% and 5.5% by weight, preferably between 3% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starch is present in a concentration of between 1% and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 2 % and 3% by weight. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said starch phosphate is present in a concentration of between 0.1% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5 % and 2% by weight. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said sodium polyacrylate is present in a concentration of between 0.1% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5% and 1% by weight. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said non-starchy polysaccharide is present in a concentration of between 0.005% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.25% and 1%. in weight. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one nonionic surfactant. 9. A method of cosmetic treatment of the skin comprising the following steps: a) applying the composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the skin; then b) leave on for a sufficient period of time; then c) penetrate by massage with your fingers or remove with a tissue and / or by rinsing said composition applied in step a). 10. Method according to the preceding claim for the care, cleaning and / or makeup removal of the skin.