FR3062794A1 - METHOD FOR TERNAIRE COSMETIC TREATMENT FOR PROGRESSIVE WEANING OF SKINS HAVING VOLUNTARY DEPIGMENTATION WHILE PREVENTING AND CORRECTING THE SIGNS OF AGING. - Google Patents

Abstract

A ternary cosmetic treatment process intended for gradual weaning of skins having undergone voluntary depigmentation, characterized in that it consists in applying to the skin a mixture made extemporaneously, while preventing and correcting the signs of aging

Description

© Publication no .: 3,062,794 (to be used only for reproduction orders)

©) National registration number: 17 70135 ® FRENCH REPUBLIC

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF INDUSTRIAL PROPERTY

COURBEVOIE © Int Cl ⁸ : A 61 K8 / 67 (2017.01), A 61 K8 / 9789, A 61 Q 19/00

A1 PATENT APPLICATION

©) Date of filing: 14.02.17. © Applicant (s): BA SOKHNA RACKY— FR and SOU- (© Priority: DANT ETIENNE— FR. @ Inventor (s): BA SOKHNA RACKY and SOUDANT ETIENNE. (43) Date of public availability of the request: 17.08.18 Bulletin 18/33. ©) List of documents cited in the report preliminary research: Refer to end of present booklet (© References to other national documents ® Holder (s): BA SOKHNA RACKY, SOUDANT related: ETIENNE. ©) Extension request (s): © Agent (s): SOUDANT ETIENNE.

TERNARY COSMETIC TREATMENT PROCESS FOR THE PROGRESSIVE WEANING OF SKINS WITH VOLUNTARY DEPIGMENTATION WHILE PREVENTING AND CORRECTING THE SIGNS OF AGING.

(5 /) Method of ternary cosmetic treatment intended for the progressive weaning of the skins having undergone a voluntary depigmentation, characterized in that it consists in applying to the skin a mixture produced extemporaneously, while preventing and correcting the signs of aging

FR 3 062 794 - A1

The present invention relates to a cosmetic, pharmaceutical and dermocosmetic ternary treatment process intended for the progressive weaning of skin having undergone voluntary depigmentation while preventing and correcting the signs of aging.

We know that voluntary depigmentation, also called cosmetic or artificial skin depigmentation, is a frequent practice among women from black Africa with prevalences varying from 20 to 70%. It is reported especially in sub-Saharan countries including Senegal, Mali, Togo, Burkina Faso, Nigeria, Congo but also South Africa. For example in Senegal 50% of women admit to regularly applying depigmenting products to their skin. In this case, the average budget for this practice can reach 20% of household resources. The cosmetic products used to depigment the skin essentially contain medicinal substances diverted from their uses, in particular dermocorticoids (clobetasol propionate, betamethasone) and hydroquinone in the form of cream, milk and gel but also salt-based soaps of mercury.

In some countries this skin depigmentation is called stripping; which is heavy with meaning because to this diversion of medicinal substances is added the use of caustic products intended to eliminate the superficial parts of the pigmented skin in order to accelerate, it is believed, this depigmentation. Hand-made preparations based on salicylated petrolatum are frequent and users often enjoy making their own mixtures before applying them to their skin.

The side effects are, in fact, numerous to start with the appearance of stretch marks, folliculitis and pigment spots which is paradoxical to say the least if we consider the desired goal. In Senegal, the aesthetic pretium, medium or large, of such practices is estimated at more than 40%. These pigment spots highlighting the neighboring hypopigmented areas can make one believe that the depigmenting product is effective and incites to increase its application on these spots, thus redoubling these unsightly secondary hyperpigmentations.

In addition to these aesthetic drawbacks already mentioned, there are often much more significant complications such as, for example, dermohypodermitis with bubbles and often multifocal or even necrotizing skin atrophies, epidermoid carcinomas, infectious dermatoses of the candidiasis type, dermatophytes, pityriasis versicolor and even scabies. Also, this voluntary depigmentation causes acne breakouts, dyschromias, trophic disorders, burns, contact eczema, the famous exogenous ochronosis exacerbated by UV exposure, pseudo-lupus dermatoses, caustic dermatitis, the stretch marks already mentioned and the dermatoses papulosa nigra.

If the users of these treatments are generally aware that there is a risk of being depigmented in this way, they ignore the extent and intensity of these side effects; affected women hiding them or staying cloistered at home.

The main problem with depigmentation is undoubtedly the difficulty of stopping it once it has been undertaken.

Women who quit are ashamed of appearing to have skin problems, of having, as they say, "spoiled skin", of having a darkened complexion, of suggesting that they no longer have the financial means to take care of them, having to admit that before they depigmented themselves, even if it was not a secret for anyone Given the extent of this phenomenon, reflections on prevention are made giving priority to information and awareness at these risks but today there is still no withdrawal method available.

There is a big difference between the actual bleaching stripping of the skin and its lightening. Depigmentation or bleaching blocks the production of melanin pigment. This has the consequence that the skin no longer tans. It is therefore a very aggressive method for treating melanin pigments. Lightening does not block the production of melanin pigments, but it prevents overproduction; it is therefore still possible to sunbathe. The production of melanin pigments being kept under control, the coloring becomes clearer and the complexion becomes uniform.

For clarity we will therefore use the terms depigmentation in the sense of removing or greatly reducing pigmentation and lightening in the direction of a brighter and more even complexion without necessarily leading to a reduction in pigmentation .

The most common substances used in pigmentation alongside corticosteroids and mercury salts are:

♦ Z »Hydroquinone, like its ethers, is a reducing agent which inhibits the oxidation reactions which lead to the formation of melanin. Although less active than its ethers, it has long been a more or less effective last resort in cosmetic formulation because it is limited to a concentration of

2%. Since January 2002 its use is prohibited in cosmetics in Europe but still accepted in the US without prescription up to a concentration of 2%. [Arndt, K.A. and Fitzpatrick, T.B. Topical use of hydroquinone as a depigmenting agent. JAMA 194 (9), 965-967 (1965)]. It is still possible to have it formulated in pharmacies as for example in the famous Kligman trio combining it with a corticosteroid and retinoic acid (5% hydroquinone Hydroquinone lg Hydrocortisone base 0.2 g Retinoic acid 0.005g in a simplex emulsion qs 20 g) Side effects are erythema (41%), scaling (38%) and burning sensation (18%) but also contact allergy, leukoderma, and exogenous ochronosis, especially on black skin.

The retinoic acid of this triad is a derivative of teratogenic Vitamin A and requires strict contraception when used. [Retinoic acid Griffiths, C.E., Finkel, L.J., Ditre, C.M., Hamilton, T.A., Ellis, C.N. and Voorhees, J.J. Topical tretinoin (retinoic acid) improves melasma. A vehiclecontrolled, clinical trial. Br. J. Dermatol. 129 (4), 415-421 (1993)].

❖ Alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid and lactic acid or other fruit acids are moisturizers in low concentrations (<5%), keratolytic and therefore depigmenting beyond. At very high concentrations (> 20%), AHAs can cause epidermolysis (case of peels with glycolic acid for example). Furthermore, at the doses at which they are used in cosmetology, they are likely to increase the sensitivity of skin with the harmful effects of UV rays [Hurley, ME, Guevara, IL, Gonzales, RM and Pandya, AG Efficacy of glycolic acid peels in the treatment of melasma. Arch. Dermatol. 138 (12), 1578-1582 (2002)].

❖ Hexyl and butyl resorcinol. 4-n-butylresorcinol is an inhibitor of the melanin synthesis pathways. On the one hand, it inhibits tyrosinase, thereby reducing the quantity of melanin produced and, on the other hand, TRP-1 involved in the stages of the synthesis of eumelanins, particularly for black skin. It has shown depigmenting efficacy in the treatment of hyperpigmentations of melasma, senile and actinic lentigos, pigmentary sequelae, inflammatory or scarring phenomena. It is authorized in cosmetics and also has local anesthetic and antiseptic effects. Gisvold (1966). C. O. Wilson, O. Gisvold and R. F. Doerge, eds. Textbook of Organic Medicinal and Pharmaceutical Chemistry (5th ed.). Philadelphia: Lippincott, pp. 237-262]

The most common substances used in the brightening of the complexion, its radiance and its homogeneity are:

4 »Niacinamide is a multifunctional vitamin which is the active form of niacin (vit B3) which is found in many plants and animals. By definition Man is unable to synthesize it and therefore depends on an external contribution to avoid its deficiency. It is an essential cofactor for NADH (Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide) and

NADPH (Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide Phosphate) and about forty other enzymatic reactions On the skin it improves its barrier function by increasing the synthesis of ceramide, it reduces the production of sebum, hydrates the skin, has anti-wrinkle effects, reduces Hyperkeratosis, improves rosacea, reduces age spots and lightens the complexion by reducing the transfer of melanins from melanocytes to keratinocytes. It does not reduce the production of melanins in the melanocyte. [Bissett, DL, Miyamoto, K., Sun, P., Li, J. and Berge, CA Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 26 (5), 231-238 (2004)] and [Bissett DL, Oblong

JE, Berge CA. Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance.Dermatol Surg. 2005 Jul; 31: 860-5].

4 »Vitamin C (ascobyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) The form of Vite most used in cosmetics because more stable and more with better efficiency, leads to a lightening of healthy skin and hypermelanoses such as melasma, chloasma, senile lentigos and ephelids. It will be hydrolyzed in the skin by skin phosphatases, thus releasing vitamin C. [Kameyama, K., Sakai, C., Kondoh, S. et al. Inhibitory effect of magnesium L-ascorbyl-2phosphate (VC-PMG) on melanogenesis in vitro and in vivo. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 34 (1), 29-33 (1996)]

4 »Glabiridin (Liquirice) Glabrene and isoliquiritigenin in the licorice extract Licorice, Glycyrrhiza glabra, is a perennial plant with erect stems of the Fabaceae family. It grows in Europe, Asia, America. It is used in the treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders. The molecules hispaglabrine, glabrine, isoliquiritine and their derivatives contained in the plant have a structure similar to that of other phenolic-type molecules with lightening and soothing properties. [Amer, M. and Metwalli, M. Topical liquiritin improves melasma. Int. J. Dermatol.]

In summary, the use of depigmenting and stripping products leads to significant problems due to the side effects which can lead in some cases to the death of users for ultimately very disappointing results, with the main problem being the difficulty of stopping it once it has been undertaken.

It is by studying the properties of three anti-aging products that the applicants have discovered, quite unexpectedly, that a combination of these three formulations allows progressive weaning of skins that have undergone voluntary depigmentation while preventing and correcting the signs of aging. . The advantage of this ternary method is also to individualize the treatment according to the condition of the skin and the level of weaning.

The subject of the present application is therefore a cosmetic, pharmaceutical and dermocosmetic ternary treatment process intended for the progressive weaning of skins which have undergone voluntary depigmentation, characterized in that it consists in applying to the skin a mixture produced extemporaneously consisting of '' a first composition endowed with properties improving the radiance and homogeneity of the complexion with on the one hand a second composition endowed with depigmenting and lightening properties and on the other hand a third composition endowed with restorative properties thus making it possible to individualize treatment depending on the condition of the skin and the level of withdrawal.

This method therefore makes it possible, at the start of weaning, to use the first composition improving the radiance and the uniformity of the complexion with a large amount of the depigmenting composition and little of the restorative composition. Daily or twice daily use of this mixture will not stop abrupt depigmentation and offer the skin a repair of damaged areas and a more beautiful shine. Then and gradually the user will decrease the amount of the depigmenting formulation in the mixture which she makes extemporaneously until possibly abandoning it completely while increasing the proportion of the repairing formulation. This method thus makes it possible to carry out a progressive weaning on the offensive stripping which it used until then. His skin regains radiance and its complexion of homogeneity. His skin is also more supple, firmer, more hydrated, thus reducing the signs of aging. She can thus, only with cosmetic products, adapt her withdrawal to the nature and problems of her skin and at the speed she wishes.

This ternary cosmetic, pharmaceutical and dermocosmetic treatment process is therefore characterized in that the ternary association to be mixed extemporaneously before the cutaneous application progressively evolves as weaning occurs with, at the start of weaning 0.1 to 1 milliliter of the depigmenting and lightening composition associated with 0.05 to 0.5 ml of the repairing composition and, at the end of weaning, a combination of 0.05 to 0.5 ml of the depigmenting and lightening composition and from 0.1 to 1 milliliter of the restorative composition.

In the case where these last two compositions are in the form of serums or liquids, this corresponds, at the start of weaning, to 2 to 20 drops of the depigmenting composition associated with 1 to 10 drops of the repairing composition. At the end of weaning this corresponds, in this case, to 1 to 10 drops of the depigmenting composition and 2 to 20 drops of the repairing composition.

The cosmetic, pharmaceutical and dermo-cosmetic composition for the implementation of the process characterized in that the first composition, improving the radiance and the uniformity of the complexion and intended to receive the milliliters coming from the two other compositions to be mixed extemporaneously, contains one or more substances from the group consisting of sunscreens, vitamin B3 and its derivatives as well as one or more substances from the group consisting of vitamin C and its derivatives such as ascorbyl glucoside or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Vit E and Vit B5 as well as hyaluronic acid and preferably high molecular weight hyaluronic acid (HMW). Vitamin B3 of the composition can also come from the group consisting of milk and aqueous extracts of baker's yeast, aqueous extracts of rye, barley, oats, wheat, deproteinized rice, wheat bran, deproteinized rice bran, cabbage, kohlrabi carrots, spinach, beans, peas, lentils, soy, pears, apples, apricots, lemons, plums, peaches , figs, prunes, dates and any extract containing vitamin B3. In the same way the vitamin C of the composition can also come from any plant extract containing vitamin C, for example from plants of the genera Adansonia, Hibiscus and Passiflora.

In the genus Adansonia we prefer Adansonia digitata, but are also possible Adansonia fony, Adansonia madagascariensis, Adansonia gregorii, Adansonia grandidieri, Adansonia za, and Adansonia suarezensis.

In itself, this formulation is very effective in preventing certain signs of aging (radiance, hydration) but combined with the other two formulas, it makes it possible to correct them. It will also serve as a basic formula to combine the two other complementary formulas to allow effective weaning of depigmented skin.

The heart of this formulation is a polyvitamin complex consisting of VitB3, Vite and VitE as well as VitB5 which are associated with high molecular weight hyaluronic acid and sun filters.

This composition may also contain derivatives of licorice or of plant containing glycyrrhinates or of glabridin as well as derivatives of Pinus pinaster containing pycnogenol or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica

On the other hand, this composition does not contain corticoids, hydroquinone derivatives, resorcinol derivatives, Paeonia lactiflora flower extract, allantoin N-acetyl-glucosamine or Aloe vera extract. It also does not contain alpha hydroxy acids.

The cosmetic, pharmaceutical and dermo-cosmetic composition for the implementation of the process characterized in that the lightening and depigmenting composition to be mixed extemporaneously with the two other constituents of the ternary process contains one or more substances from the group consisting of resorcinol and its derivatives such as butylresorcinol, paeoniflorin or plant extracts such as Paeonia lactiflora or Salvinia molesta containing it, acetyl-glucosamine and its derivatives, allantoin, an extract of Aloe vera and acid hyaluronic and preferably low molecular weight (LMW).

This composition can also contain extracts of

Cucumber, Hammamelis, chamazulene and bisabolol or plants containing it. It may also contain glutathione or glutathione reductase separately or as a mixture.

However, this composition does not contain corticoids, hydroquinone derivatives, alpha-hydroxy acids and vitamins. In itself, this formulation is very effective in preventing certain signs of aging (localized age spots, hydration), but combined with the two other formulas, it makes it possible to correct them. It will also be used in variable association with the other two complementary formulas to allow effective weaning of depigmented skin. On the other hand, this composition does not contain corticoids, hydroquinone derivatives, resorcinol derivatives, Paeonia lactiflora flower extract, N-acetyl-glucosamine, allantoin or Aloe vera extract. It also does not contain alpha-hydroxy acid.

The cosmetic, pharmaceutical and dermo-cosmetic composition for the implementation of the process characterized in that the restorative composition to be mixed extemporaneously with the other 2 constituents of the ternary process contains one or more substances from the group consisting of an extract of Baobab pulp , an extract of Hibiscus chalice, Vit B3, Vit C and hyaluronic acid preferably in the form of oligosaccharides.

This composition may also contain derivatives of licorice or of plant containing glycyrrhinates or of glabridin as well as derivatives of Pinus pinaster containing pycnogenol or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica.

On the other hand, this composition does not contain corticoids, hydroquinone derivatives, resorcinol derivatives, Paeonia lactiflora flower extract, allantoin N-acetyl-glucosamine or Aloe vera extract. It also does not contain alpha hydroxy acids.

In itself, this formulation is very effective in preventing the signs of aging (radiance, hydration, wrinkles, loss of elasticity and firmness), but combined with the two other formulas it makes it possible to correct them. When it is in the form of a serum, it is a real reinforcement of effectiveness. It will also be used in variable association with the other two complementary formulas to allow effective weaning of depigmented skin.

When its concentrations of active ingredients are higher than those of the basic lightening formulation, it can be used to reinforce efficacy either globally or in certain particular areas or even at certain times of the day or of the treatment.

The ternary cosmetic, pharmaceutical and dermocosmetic treatment process of the invention is also characterized in that each of the three formulations contains hyaluronic acid in a different form and of complementary action. Indeed, hyaluronic acid is present in the human body in different forms. Depending on the length of the disaccharide chain, the hyaluronic acid molecule has different biological functions. HMW hyaluronic acid (higher than 2500 polysaccharides) of high molecular mass, is active in hydration thanks to its hygroscopic properties, in proliferation, migration and cell development. It protects from the deleterious effects of UVB. LMW hyaluronic acid (between 50 and 500 polysaccharides) of low molecular weight is active in the processes of inflammation and collagen synthesis. Hyaluronic acid oligosaccharides are active on the synthesis of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid and stimulate angiogenesis. It is therefore completely innovative and beneficial for the skin and to combine them all together in an extemporaneous mixture in the process of the present application.

This method, with its three compositions to be mixed just before use, allows depigmented women to discover an alternative to stripping and heterogeneous depigmentation by advantageously and gradually replacing it with a lightening of their skin improving its radiance and homogeneity.

In addition, the ternary cosmetic, pharmaceutical and dermo-cosmetic treatment method characterized in that each of its three formulations is either in the same form or in two or three different forms, in particular in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W) or water in oil (W / O), multiple emulsion (O / W / H, W / O / W), microemulsion, twin phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nano -emulsion, pseudo-emulsion (stable dispersion of two immiscible phases by means of gelling agent), aqueous gel, fatty gel, hydroalcoholic gel, fatty phase, suspension, freeze or freeze-dried emulsion and / or of one of the preceding forms containing micro-capsules, nano-capsules, liposomes, ethosomes and which may be present without being limiting in creams, serums, liquids, pastes, lotions, emulsions, oils, gels, solids, powders, masks, stick, sprays, aerosol.

For example, the ternary cosmetic, pharmaceutical and dermo-cosmetic treatment process is characterized in that these formulations are for the first time lightening and homogenizing the complexion in the form of a gel emulsion and that each of the two other formulations is in the form of serum.

The ternary cosmetic, pharmaceutical and dermocosmetic treatment process characterized in that the depigmenting serum and the repairing serum are applied directly to the skin, for example on well-defined areas; zones covered, then, with the lightening emulsion thus allowing a "push and go" effect of the active ingredients of the serums towards the deeper epidermis. The lightening formulation will push the assets of the other formulas by arriving after them but especially by an occlusive effect decreasing the epidermal barrier effect.

Finally, the ternary cosmetic, pharmaceutical and dermo-cosmetic treatment process intended for weaning skin having undergone whitening, characterized in that the extemporaneous association of the three formulations can advantageously be carried out with the aim of also or jointly correcting the signs of aging of all types of skin such as dehydration of the skin, dulling of the complexion, aging spots, loss of firmness and the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.

Examples are then given without being limiting in order to illustrate the invention

Example 1.

Objective: Evaluate the effect of a Baobab pulp extract and Hibiscus calyxes (native dry extract at 5%) on muscle contractions (botox-like effect) and therefore the potential for reducing wrinkles.

Methodology: The evaluation of the botox like effect is made on a nerve-muscle co-culture capable of spontaneous contractions. The principle of this method is based on the ability of the extract to block or decrease the frequency of these human muscle cells. The contractions are counted at defined times before and after the application of the extract. The effect of the product is validated if there is a significant change in muscle contractions in at least 2 of the 3 culture wells.

Results and conclusion: Under experimental conditions, the dry extract product of Baobab pulp and Hibiscus calyx, tested at 5%, blocks muscle contractions in each of the 3 wells tested, 2 hours, 6 hours and 24 hours after incubation. . These muscle contractions are the cause of the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines on the face.

Example 2

Objective: To assess the effect of an extract of Baobab pulp and Hibiscus calyx (native dry extract of Baobab and Hibiscus at 0.008%) on the expression of genes coding for Claudines-1 by microchips DNA (cDNA-array) on human epidermal cells (keratinocytes).

Cell type: Normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) on the third pass

Culture condition: 37 ° C, 5% C02

Culture medium: Keratinocytes-SFM (Invitrogen 17005-034) supplemented with Epidermal Growth Factor (EOF) 0.25 ng / ml Pituitary extract (PE) 25 ug / ml (Invitrogen 3700015) Gentamycin 25 ug / ml (Sigma G1397)

Medium of study: Keratinocyte-SFM (Invitrogen 17005-034) supplemented with Gentamycin 25 ug / ml (Sigma G1397)

Culture and treatment: The cells are seeded and cultivated in the culture medium described above until confluence and are then placed in the study medium. The cells are then treated or not (control) with the extract to be tested (dry extract native to Baobab and Hibiscus at 0.008%) and cultured for another 24 hours. Each experimental condition is repeated three times (triplicate).

At the end of the incubation time, the cells are washed with a PBS solution (Invitrogen 14190094), 300 μl of TriReagent are added and the cells are immediately frozen at -80 ° C.

DNA microarray analysis: The messenger RNA is extracted from each keratinocyte culture (NHEK) and brought into contact with specific cDNA probes covalently attached to microchips and labeled cDNAs.

The analysis is carried out by direct quantification of the radioactivity on each spot after 72 h.

Results: Under these experimental conditions and therefore at the level of the epidermal cells, the expression of the Claudine-1 gene is stimulated by + 138% at very low concentration with the extract of Baobab pulp and Hibiscus calyx at 0.008%.

Claudine-1 is an essential protein for tight intercellular junctions, a very powerful attachment structure between epithelial cells such as the epidermis, it helps strengthen the solidity of the epidermis, its cohesion and firmness.

Example 3.

This example describes the case where the 3 formulations of the ternary process are made from the same formula.

1.) Brightening and homogenizing complexion O / W gel emulsion

- Carbopol 981 ............................................... .................................... 0.60 g

- Ethyl alcohol............................................... ......................... 15.00 g

- Volatile silicone oil ............................................. ................ 3.00 g

- Purcellin oil .............................................. .......................... 0.70 g

- Preservatives ................................................ .................................... 0.30 g

- Perfume ................................................ ................................................. 0 , 40 g

- Niacinamide ................................................ ................................. 1.00 g

- Ascorbyl glucoside ............................................... ....................... 0.20 g

- Hyaluronic Acid HMW .............................................. ............. 0.20g

-Vitamin B5 ............................................... ............................................ 1.50g

-Vitamin E............................................... .............................................. 0.20g

-sun filters ............................................... ......................................... 8.00g

- Demineralized water qs .............................................. ............... 100.00 g

2.) Depigmenting and soothing O / W gel emulsion

- Carbopol 981 ............................................... .................................... 0.60 g

- Ethyl alcohol............................................... .......................... 15.00 g

- Volatile silicone oil ............................................. ................. 3.00 g

- Purcellin oil .............................................. ........................... 7.00 g

- Preservatives ................................................ ..................................... 0.10 g

- Perfume ................................................ ................................................. 0 , 40 g

- Butylresorcinol ................................................ ............................. 3.00 g

- Paeonie flower extract ............................................ ............. 2.00 g

-LMW Hyaluronic Acid .............................................. .............. 0.20g

-N-acetyl-glucosamine ............................................ .............................. 0.50g

-Allantoin ................................................ .............................................. 0.20g

-Aloe Vera extract ............................................ ................................... 1.00g

- Demineralized water qs .............................................. ............... 100.00 g

3.) Repairing O / W gel emulsion and increased efficiency

- Carbopol 981 ............................................... .................................... 0.60 g

-Ethyl alcohol............................................... ......................... 15.00g

- Volatile silicone oil ............................................. ................ 3.00 g

- Purcellin oil .............................................. .......................... 7.00 g

- Preservatives ................................................ .................................... 0.30 g

- Perfume ................................................ ................................................. 0 , 40 g

- Niacinamide ................................................ .................................... 2.50 g

-Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate .............................................. ...... 0.50 g

-Oligosaccharides of Hyaluronic Acid ......................................... 0.20 g

-Hibiscus chalice extract ........................................... .......................... 1.00g

-Vitamin E............................................... ................................................. 0 , 50g

- Baobab extract .............................................. ...................................... 1.00g

- Demineralized water qs .............................................. .................. 100.00 g

After several weeks of daily use, the users significantly reduced the use of the depigmenting formulation in favor of the restorative one. Their complexion is more radiant and more uniform. The hydration of the upper layers of the epidermis has improved, wrinkles have been reduced and their skin is firmer and more elastic.

Example 4.

This example describes the case where the 3 formulations of the ternary process consist of a liposome cream and two sera and are to be mixed immediately before

The application.

1.) Liposome cream

- Cetyl alcohol ............................................... ............... 4.00 g

- B-sitosterol .............................................. ....................... 4.00 g

- Diketyl phosphate ............................................... ........... 0.50 g

- Carbopol 981 ............................................... .................. 0.20 g

- Triethanolamine ................................................ ............. 0.20 g

- Phospholipid ................................................ ................. 0.05g

- C30H50 counterpart ............................................... ........ 1.50 g

- Niacinamide ................................................ .................... 2.00 g

- Ascorbyl glucoside ............................................... ........... 0.30 g

- Hyaluronic Acid HMW .............................................. 0.20g

-Vitamin B5 ............................................... ............................ 1.00g

-Vitamin E............................................... ............................... 0.50g

-sun filters ............................................... .......................... 7.00g

- Preservatives ................................................ ...................... 0.30 g

- Perfume ................................................ .................................. 1.00 g

- Demineralized water qs .............................................. .100.00 g

2.) Repairing and efficiency enhancing serum

Disodium EDTA ................................................ .......................... 0.10g

Niacinamide ................................................. .............................. 2.50g

Ascorbyl glucoside ................................................ ..................... 1.00g

Hyaluronic Acid Oligosaccharides .............................. 0.2 g

Hibiscus chalice extract ............................................ ........... 1.00g

Vitamin E................................................ .................................... 0.7g

Baobab extract ............................................... ........................ 1.00g

Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Copolymer Carbopol ........ 1.00g

Propanediol ................................................. ............................... 6.00g

Salicylic Acid ................................................ ................................ 1.50g

PPG-5 Ceteth-20 ............................................ ............................. 1.00g

PEG-8 ............................................... ............................................. 2.00g

Sodium Hydroxide (to pH 3.75) ........................................... ..... 0.40g

Cyclopentasiloxane ................................................. .................. 4.00g

Dimethicone DC ................................................ .......................... 2.50g

Polyacrylate 13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate ........................ 0.40g

Preservatives ................................................. ........................... 0.90g

Demineralized water qs ............................................... ...... 100.00g

3.) Depigmenting serum

Disodium EDTA ................................................ .......................... 0.10g

Glycerin ................................................. ...................................... 2.00g

Allantoin ................................................. ................................. 2.00g

Ascorbyl glucoside ................................................ ..................... 1.00g

N-acetyl-glucosamine ............................................. ................... 0.50g

Aloe Vera extract ............................................. ........................ 0.50g

Paeonie flower extract ............................................. .... 2.00 g

LMW Hyaluronic Acid ............................................... ..... 0.20 g

Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Copolymer Carbopol ........ 1.00g

Propanediol ................................................. .............................. 6.00g

Salicylic Acid ................................................ ............................... 1.50g

PPG-5 Ceteth-20 ............................................ ............................ 1.00g

PEG-8 ............................................... ............................................ 2.00g

Sodium Hydroxide (to pH 3.75) ........................................... .... 0.40g

Cyclopentasiloxane ................................................. .................. 4.00g

Dimethicone DC ................................................ .......................... 2.50g

Polyacrylate 13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate ........................ 0.40g

Butyl resorcinol ................................................ ........................... 3.00g

Preservatives ................................................. .......................... 0.90g

Demineralized water qs ............................................... ...... 100.00 g

After 4 weeks of twice-daily use according to the ternary process, the skin of the users has been improved from the point of view of radiance and uniformity of the complexion, its firmness and its hydration. Wrinkles and fine lines have significantly decreased. The use of depigmenting serum has been reduced except for occasional applications on residual hyperpigmentary spots just before application of the cream.

Claims (12)

1.) Method of ternary cosmetic treatment intended for the progressive weaning of the skins having undergone a voluntary depigmentation characterized in that it consists in applying to the skin a mixture produced extemporaneously consisting of a first composition endowed with properties improving the radiance and homogeneity the complexion with on the one hand a second composition endowed with depigmenting and lightening properties and on the other hand a third composition endowed with restorative properties thus making it possible to individualize the treatment according to the condition of the skin and the weaning level 2.) A method of ternary cosmetic treatment according to claim 1 characterized in that the ternary association to be mixed extemporaneously before the skin application progresses progressively as weaning with, at the start of weaning 0.1 to 1 milliliter of the depigmenting and lightening composition associated with 0.05 to 0.5 ml of the repairing composition and, at the end of weaning, a combination of 0.05 to 0.5 ml of the depigmenting and lightening composition and from 0.1 to 1 milliliter of the restorative composition. 3.) Cosmetic composition for the implementation of the method according to claims 1 to 2 characterized in that the first composition, improving the radiance and the uniformity of the complexion and intended to receive the milliliters coming from the two other compositions to be mixed extemporaneously , contains one or more substances from the group consisting of sunscreens, vitamin B3 and its derivatives as well as one or more substances from the group consisting of vitamin C and its derivatives such as ascorbyl glucoside or ascorbyl phosphate of magnesium, Vit E and Vit B5 as well as hyaluronic acid and preferably high molecular weight hyaluronic acid (HMW). Vitamin B3 of the composition can also come from the group consisting of milk and aqueous extracts of baker's yeast, aqueous extracts of rye, barley, oats, wheat, deproteinized rice, wheat bran, deproteinized rice bran, cabbage, kohlrabi carrots, spinach, beans, peas, lentils, soy, pears, apples, apricots, lemons, plums, peaches , figs, prunes, dates and any extract containing vitamin B3. In the same way the vitamin C of the composition can also come from any plant extract containing vitamin C 5 such as plants of the genera Adansonia, Hibiscus and Passiflora. 4.) Cosmetic composition for implementing the process according to claims 1 to 3 characterized in that the lightening and depigmenting composition to be mixed 10 extemporaneously with the other 2 constituents of the ternary process contains one or more substances from the group consisting of resorcinol and its derivatives such as butylresorcinol, paeoniflorin or plant extracts such as Paeonia lactiflora or Salvinia molesta containing it, Acetyl glucosamine and its derivatives, allantoin, an extract of Aloe vera and hyaluronic acid and preferably low molecular weight (LMW). 5.) Cosmetic composition for implementing the method according to claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the 20 restorative composition to be mixed extemporaneously with the other 2 constituents of the ternary process contains one or more substances from the group consisting of an extract of Baobab pulp, an extract of Hibiscus chalice, Vit B3, Vit C and d hyaluronic acid preferably in the form 25 oligosaccharides. 6.) A method of ternary cosmetic treatment according to claims 1 and 2 characterized in that each of the three formulations contains hyaluronic acid in a different form and of complementary action. 30 7.) A method of cosmetic ternary treatment according to claims 1, 2 and 6 characterized in that each of its three formulations is either in the same form or in two or three different forms, in particular in the form of an oil emulsion in water (O / W) or water in oil (W / O), 35 multiple emulsion (O / W / O, W / O / W), microemulsion, twin phase emulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, pseudo-emulsion (stable dispersion of two phases immiscible with gelling agent), aqueous gel, fatty gel, hydroalcoholic gel, fatty phase, suspension, 40 of freeze-dried gel or emulsion and / or one of the preceding forms containing micro-capsules, nano-capsules, liposomes, ethosomes and which may be present without being limiting in creams, serums, liquids, pastes , lotions, emulsions, oils, gels, solids, powders, masks, stick, sprays, aerosol. 8.) A method of ternary cosmetic treatment according to claims 1, 2, 6 and 7 characterized in that these 5 formulations are for the first lightening and homogenizing of the complexion in the form of a gel emulsion and that each of the two other formulations is in the form of serum. 9.) Ternary cosmetic treatment method according to 10 claims 8 characterized in that the depigmenting serum and the repairing serum are applied directly to the skin for example on well delimited areas then covered with the lightening emulsion thus allowing a "push and go" effect of the active ingredients of the serums towards the deeper epidermis. 15) The method of ternary cosmetic treatment according to claims 1, 2 and 6 to 9 intended for weaning skins which have undergone bleaching, characterized in that the extemporaneous association of the three formulations can advantageously be carried out with the aim of also correcting or jointly the 20 signs of aging of all skin types which are dehydration of the skin, dulling of the complexion, age spots, loss of firmness and the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. National registration number FRENCH REPUBLIC will I institute r NATIONAL INSTITUTE INDUSTRIAL PROPERTY