FR3052971B1

FR3052971B1 - OXIDIZING COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A NANOEMULSION COMPRISING A POLYOXYETHYLENE NONIONIC SURFACTANT

Info

Publication number: FR3052971B1
Application number: FR1655837A
Authority: FR
Inventors: Aldo PIZZINO; Frederic Simonet; Claire Corizia
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2016-06-23
Filing date: 2016-06-23
Publication date: 2019-07-19
Anticipated expiration: 2036-06-23
Also published as: FR3052971A1

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique oxydante sous forme de nanoémulsion de type huile-dans-eau comprenant : (i) un ou plusieurs tensioactifs non-ioniques choisis parmi les alcools gras polyéthoxylés ayant une température de fusion inférieure ou égale à 35°C, (ii) un ou plusieurs corps gras, (iii) un ou plusieurs oxydants chimiques, de préférence du peroxyde d'hydrogène, (iv) de l'eau. L'invention concerne également un procédé de préparation de cette composition par inversion de phase induite par le changement de température (PIT). L'invention concerne aussi un procédé de décoloration ou d'éclaircissement des fibres kératiniques, ainsi qu'un procédé de coloration des fibres kératiniques, mettant en œuvre cette composition.The present invention relates to an oxidizing cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water type nanoemulsion, comprising: (i) one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from polyethoxylated fatty alcohols having a melting point of less than or equal to 35 ° C., (ii) one or more fatty substances, (iii) one or more chemical oxidants, preferably hydrogen peroxide, (iv) water. The invention also relates to a method for preparing this composition by phase inversion induced by the temperature change (PIT). The invention also relates to a process for bleaching or lightening keratinous fibers, and a process for dyeing keratinous fibers, using this composition.

Description

OXIDIZING COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A NANOEMULSION COMPRISING A POLYOXYETHYLENE NONIONIC SURFACTANT

The present invention relates to an oxidizing cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water type nanoemulsion comprising (i) one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from polyethoxylated fatty alcohols having a melting temperature of less than or equal to 35 °, (ii ) one or more fatty substances, (iii) one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide and (iv) water. The invention also relates to a method for preparing this composition by phase inversion induced by the temperature change (PIT).

Finally, the present invention relates to a dyeing process and a process for bleaching keratin fibers using the composition according to the invention.

Nanoemulsions, especially of the oil-in-water (O / W) type, are well known in the cosmetic and dermatological field, in particular for the preparation of cosmetic products such as milks, creams, tonics, serums or waters. in order to be applied to the skin and / or the hair.

The nanoemulsions are to be distinguished from microemulsions which are thermodynamically stable dispersions in the form of micelles of oil-swollen surfactants, and which form spontaneously by simple mixing of the constituents, without substantial energy input.

The nanoemulsions generally have an average size of oil drops (or oily globules) in a number of less than 200 nanometers, said oil drops being stabilized by a layer of amphiphilic molecules which can optionally form a liquid crystal phase of lamellar type, located at the oil / aqueous phase interface.

By amphiphilic molecule is meant any molecule having a bipolar structure, that is to say having at least one hydrophobic part and at least one hydrophilic part, having the property of reducing the surface tension of water (γ <55 mN / m) and reduce the interfacial tension between water and an oily phase. The amphiphilic molecules are, for example, surfactants, surfactants or emulsifiers.

Thanks to the small size of oil drops, nanoemulsions offer a number of advantages from a cosmetic or dermatological point of view compared to conventional emulsions. In particular, they exhibit a remarkable kinetic stability and a large interaction surface for the deposition of oils and / or for the transfer of active agents carried in the fatty phase of the composition, leading in particular to a homogeneous and effective deposition on the skin and / or hair while permitting satisfactory penetration and remanence of the oils.

Therefore, the nanoemulsions can impart improved cosmetic properties to the keratinous fiber, in particular a detangling, a softness, a touch, a rinsability and a conditioning effect of the keratin materials such as the hair, which are better than those obtained with the emulsions and conventional dispersions used in the cosmetics field. They also make it possible to attenuate the degradation of the keratinous fiber.

In addition, the nanoemulsions offer the possibility of obtaining preparations with a high oil content without having the disadvantage of having a greasy texture or of imparting a fatty appearance to the keratin materials.

In addition, the nanoemulsions have the advantage of being easy to mix with other compositions, and to be easy to spread on the skin and / or hair.

Finally, the nanoemulsions are transparent compositions with slightly bluish and / or slightly veiled, and have a particularly attractive aesthetic appearance.

However, currently marketed nanoemulsions are generally obtained by means of a high pressure homogenization (HHP) process using equipment which has the disadvantage of being extremely expensive in terms of energy and maintenance.

Indeed, the homogenization process under high pressure requires a specific equipment and particularly heavy to work under high pressures ranging from 12.107 to 18.107 Pa.

Therefore, such a method is not easy to implement in the industry.

Another technique for preparing nanoemulsions is the PIC process (for "phase inversion concentration"). However, this method has the disadvantage of having unacceptable implementation times and low feasibility on a large scale.

Furthermore, it is known that the use of hydrogen peroxide in combination with a staining medium makes it possible to obtain either a so-called permanent or oxidative staining if the staining medium consists of oxidation dyes, generally known as dye bases. oxidation, or a semi-permanent coloration in lightening conditions if the staining medium consists of direct dyes. Hydrogen peroxide can also be used in bleaching, either as a sole bleaching agent or in combination with other bleaching agents, such as peroxygenated salts.

However, the performances in terms of lightening and / or degradation of the fiber resulting from the use of the compositions based on hydrogen peroxide still have to be improved.

There is therefore a real need to provide oxidizing cosmetic compositions in the form of nanoemulsion of oil-in-water type capable of leading to improved cosmetic properties while being capable of being prepared from a low energy process and easily industrializable. These compositions must also be stable and not degrade over time during storage.

In addition, these oxidizing cosmetic compositions, when they are used alone or in combination with a staining medium, must make it possible to obtain superior coloring and / or lightening properties, while preserving the integrity of the keratinous fibers.

Surprisingly, it has been found that a cosmetic composition comprising (i) one or more nonionic surfactants selected from polyethoxylated fatty alcohols having a melting temperature of less than or equal to 35 ° C, (ii) one or more fatty substances, (iii) one or more chemical oxidizing agents, and (iv) water was able to respond to the technical problems raised.

Indeed, it has been discovered that such an association has the advantage of leading to the formation of an oxidizing cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion from any type of nanoemulsion preparation process, and in particular from a temperature change induced phase inversion method (PIT). The subject of the invention is therefore an oxidizing cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water type nanoemulsion comprising: (i) one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from polyethoxylated fatty alcohols having a melting temperature of less than or equal to ° C, (ii) one or more fatty substances, (iii) one or more chemical oxidizing agents, and (iv) water.

The composition according to the invention can be used in methods for bleaching or staining of keratin fibers, in which it makes it possible to obtain good performances while conferring improved cosmetic properties on the keratinous fiber, in particular disentangling, softness , a touch, a rinsability and a conditioning effect of keratin materials such as the hair, which are better than those obtained with conventional emulsions and dispersions used in the cosmetics field.

In addition, the composition according to the invention may contain a high oil content without the disadvantage of having a greasy texture or imparting a fatty appearance to the keratin materials.

Thus, the composition according to the invention leads in particular to a homogeneous and efficient deposition of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, oils and / or active products, which allows a satisfactory penetration and remanence of the oils and / or active products. .

In addition, the composition according to the invention is easy to mix with other compositions, especially one or more dye compositions, and is easy to spread on keratin materials.

Finally, the composition according to the invention is stable over time and does not degrade during storage.

The composition according to the invention can be obtained from any type of process for the preparation of nanoemulsions, such as, for example, the HHP, PIC or PIT processes.

In particular, the composition according to the invention can be obtained by a phase inversion method induced by the temperature change (PIT).

Thus, another object of the present invention is a method of preparing the above composition by temperature change induced phase inversion (PIT).

This method has the advantage of being much less expensive than the high pressure process (HHP) and feasible on an industrial scale unlike the PIC process.

Finally, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain lightening properties superior to the compositions of the prior art while preserving the integrity of the keratin fiber. In the context of hair dyeing, the composition according to the invention leads to good dyeing performance, especially in terms of power, chromaticity and / or selectivity.

Therefore, another subject of the present invention is a process for bleaching or lightening keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, using the composition according to the invention, said composition possibly being able to be mixed with another composition before application. on the fibers.

Another object of the present invention is also a method for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, comprising applying the composition according to the invention, simultaneously or sequentially, with a dyeing composition comprising one or more oxidation dyes. and / or one or more direct dyes. Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description, and the examples which follow.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field, especially in the expressions "between" and "from ... to ...".

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

By atmospheric pressure is meant a pressure of 760 mm Hg or 1.013.105 Pa.

In the present description, the melting temperatures are measured at atmospheric pressure.

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a nanoemulsion of the oil-in-water type.

The average size of the oil drops in intensity of the nanoemulsion according to the invention is generally less than 200 nm, preferably between 10 and 150 nm, more preferably between 20 and 100 nm, better still between 20 and 90 nm, and even better. between 20 and 50 nm.

The average number size of the particles (or drops of oil) can be determined in particular according to the known method of dynamic light scattering (DLS). As an apparatus that can be used for this determination, mention may be made of the Malvern model Zetasizer Nano ZS granulometer, equipped with a standard laser of 4 mW power and at a wavelength of 633 nm. This device is also equipped with a correlator (25 ns to 8000 s, 4000 channels max.).

In the present description and the examples which follow, the sizes of the oil drops are given for a sample temperature of 25 ° C.

In addition, the composition according to the invention has a very low polydispersity, that is to say that the size of the particles is very homogeneous. The particles present in the composition according to the invention are liquid particles of oil (or oily phase) within the dispersing aqueous phase.

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from polyethoxylated fatty alcohols having a melting point of less than or equal to 35 ° C.

Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the nonionic surfactant or surfactants have a melting point of less than or equal to 30 ° C., preferably less than or equal to 25 ° C.

The term "fatty alcohol" denotes an alcohol having a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

Thus, particularly preferably, the nonionic surfactant (s) according to the invention are of formula (I): R- (OCH 2 -CH 2) n -OH (I) R representing a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon chain , comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably greater than or equal to 4.

Preferably, R represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, branched or linear, preferably linear, comprising from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Preferably, n is an integer less than or equal to 12.

More preferably, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 12, more preferably from 4 to 12.

According to a first embodiment, R represents an unsaturated linear hydrocarbon chain having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

According to this embodiment, oleic alcohol oxyethylenated with 10 EO (EO for oxyethylene unit) (or oleth-10) is used as particularly preferred nonionic surfactant.

According to a second embodiment, R represents a saturated linear hydrocarbon chain having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

In accordance with this embodiment, the particularly preferred nonionic surfactant is 4E-oxyethylenated lauric alcohol.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant (s) according to the invention are chosen from polyethoxylated fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant or surfactants that can be used according to the invention represent from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 2 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention also comprises one or more fatty substances.

The term "fatty substance" according to the present application means an organic compound which is insoluble in water at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10 5 Pa), that is to say having a solubility of less than 5. % by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, in water. They generally have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms.

In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran ( THF), petrolatum oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Preferably, the fatty substance (s) that can be used according to the invention are chosen from those having a melting temperature of less than 35 ° C., preferably from those which are liquid at 30 ° C., more preferably from those having a lower melting point. or equal to 25 ° C

Preferably, the body or bodies according to the invention are chosen from oils. By "oil" is meant a "fat" which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C), and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1,013.105 Pa).

The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil containing no silicon atom (Si) and "silicone oil" an oil containing at least one silicon atom.

More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from C6-C10 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons having more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, alcohols fatty acids, non-salified fatty acids, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters different from triglycerides, non-silicone waxes, different from solid fatty alcohols and solid synthetic esters, silicones, and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that for the purposes of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise.

The linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably chosen from paraffin or petroleum jelly oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

With regard to the lower C 6 -C 6 alkanes, the latter are linear, branched, and possibly cyclic. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane and isododecane, and mixtures thereof. As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.

Triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or even more particularly from those present in vegetable oils such as such as sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, coriander oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, grapeseed oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, shea butter, palm oil, kernel oil apricot, calophyllum oil, rice bran oil, corn germ oil, wheat germ oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, evening primrose oil , safflower oil, passion flower oil, rye oil, pumpkin oil, macadamia oil, avocado oil, or synthetic triglycerides of caprylic / cap acids Like those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, and mixtures thereof.

The fluorinated oils may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl®" by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M.

The fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. There may be mentioned, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol and linolenic alcohol. ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol and mixtures thereof.

The fatty acids that can be used in the context of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are advantageously chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid. These fatty acids are the composition of the invention not salified by organic or mineral bases to not give rise to soaps.

With regard to fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, different from the triglycerides mentioned above and vegetable waxes, mention may be made in particular of saturated or unsaturated linear or C 1 -C 26 aliphatic mono or poly acid esters, or branched C3-C26 and saturated or unsaturated linear or C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyhydric alcohols, or branched C3-C26, the total number of carbon esters being greater than or equal to 6, more preferably greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabiethyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isoketyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso) stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl ricinoleate acetyl; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; , styryl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and mixtures thereof.

Still in the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and di, tri, alcohols. C2-C26 tetra or pentahydroxy ·

These include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates and mixtures thereof.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristates of alkyls such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acid sugars. It is recalled that "sugar" is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. especially alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise.

The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmito-stearate esters.

More particularly, the mono- and di-esters are used, and especially the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sugar: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F1, F90, F70, SL40 by the company Crodesta, denoting sucrose palmito-stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester, and 48% di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetraester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester; the sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE.

The wax or the non-silicone waxes different from the solid fatty alcohols and the solid synthetic esters, are chosen in particular from Carnauba wax, Candelila wax, and Alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, and waxes. vegetable oils such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flower sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as waxes bees, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes, such as the one sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.

The fatty substance (s) used in the compositions of the invention do not comprise an oxyalkylenated C2-C3 unit. Preferably they do not contain a glycerol unit. More particularly, the fatty substances are different from the fatty acids.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty substances are not silicone.

The fatty substances are preferably chosen from C6-C10 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons having more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, dicarboxylic acid esters, and the like. fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the fatty substances are chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, for example liquid petroleum jelly, triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin, and or mixtures thereof, more preferably linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral origin of more than 16 liquid carbon atoms, and triglycerides of liquid vegetable origin and / or mixtures thereof, more preferably from mineral oils, vegetable oils and their mixtures.

The fatty substance or fats advantageously represent from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 5 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As described above, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

The term "chemical oxidizing agent" means an oxidizing agent different from the oxygen in the air.

More particularly, the chemical oxidizing agent (s) is (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors and percarbonates. of alkali or alkaline earth metals.

Preferably the chemical oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide. The chemical oxidizing agent generally represents from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The hydrogen peroxide is generally in the form of an aqueous solution, the concentration of which may vary, for example from 5 to 60% by weight, especially from 20 to 50% by weight of hydrogen peroxide. However, the ranges indicated above are by weight of hydrogen peroxide and not by weight of aqueous solution.

The composition according to the invention also comprises water which generally represent from 10 to 90% by weight, preferably from 20 to 80% by weight, preferably from 30 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more ionic surfactants chosen from anionic, cationic and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

When the composition according to the invention comprises at least one ionic surfactant, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more cationic surfactants.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants.

The term "cationic surfactant" means a positively charged surfactant when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention.

The cationic surfactant (s) are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain. As quaternary ammonium salts, there may be mentioned, for example: those corresponding to the following general formula (II):

(Π) wherein the groups R 1 to R 4, which may be the same or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of groups R 1 to R 4 denoting a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C1-C30alkyl, C1-C30alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30alkylamide, (C2-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkyl, ( C12-C22) acetate, and hydroxyalkyl C1-C30; X "is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, laetates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates.

Of the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), tetraalkylammonium salts are preferred, for example dialkyl dimethyl ammonium or alkyl trimethyl ammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms. carbon, in particular the salts of behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium or, on the other hand, the salts of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, of stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium, the salts of

stearamidopropyldimethylcétéaryl ammonium, or the salts of stearamidopropyldimethyl- (myristylacetate) ammonium sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by VAN DYK. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of its compounds. the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (III) below:

(III) wherein R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, FU, represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl group or alkyl having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, Rs represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X "is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates , acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl or alkylaryl sulphonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively, and preferably R 5 and FU denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R7 denotes a methyl group, Rg denotes a hydrogen atom, such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75; by the REWO company - quaternary di or triammonium salts in particular of formula (IV):

in which R 9 denotes an alkyl radical comprising from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R 10 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R9a) (R10a) (Riia) N- (CH2) 3, R9a, R10a, Riia, R11, R12, R13 and R14, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X 'is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates. Such compounds are, for example, the Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), the Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75), the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (V) below:

(V) wherein:

Ris is selected from C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups and C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

Ri6 is chosen from:

O

II, R19- c- - the group - R20 groups which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups, - the hydrogen atom,

Ris is chosen from:

O

The group R22, which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon groups, hydrogen, R 17, R 19 and R 21, which may be identical or different, are chosen. from C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X 'is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R 6 is R 20 and that when z is 0 then Ris is R 22

The alkyl groups R15 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When Ri6 is a hydrocarbon R20 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When Ris is a hydrocarbon R22 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R17, R19 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or saturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. or unsaturated.

Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2. The anion X 'is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate more particularly methyl sulphate . However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The anion X 'is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate.

In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (V) in which:

R a is methyl or ethyl, x and y are 1; z is 0 or 1; r, s and t are 2;

Ri6 is chosen from:

O

II, R19- c- - the group - methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, - the hydrogen atom;

Ri8 is chosen from:

O

II - the group - the hydrogen atom; R17, R19 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups; .

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

There may be mentioned, for example, the compounds of formula (V) such as the salts (in particular chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, with C10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids. plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methanesulfonate. methyl, para-toluenesulfonate methyl, chlorohydrin glycol or glycerol.

Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

The behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride proposed by KAO can be used under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.

Preferably the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that can be used, it is preferred to use dipalmethylethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium salts.

The cationic surfactants are preferably chosen from those of formula (II) and those of formula (V), and even more preferably from those of formula (II).

In a particularly preferred manner, the cationic surfactant (s) are tertiaryalkylammonium chlorides.

Preferably, when they are present, the ionic surfactant (s) represent (s) from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the composition of the invention is generally between 1 and 7, preferably between 1.5 and 5, better still between 2 and 4.

The composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a transparent to milky fluid, preferably transparent to translucent.

The transparency of the composition according to the invention can be characterized by turbidimetry (in units of NTU). In the context of this invention, the turbidity measurements were performed with a HI 88713-ISO model turbidimeter from Hanna Instruments, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure. The turbidity of the nanoemulsions of the invention is generally less than 400 NTU units, and preferably between 10 and 250 NTU units, more preferably between 20 and 200 NTU units.

The composition according to the invention may have a viscosity ranging for example from 1 to 500 cPoise (1 to 500 mPa.s), and preferably from 1 to 200 cPoise (1 to 200 mPa.s), the viscosity being measured at room temperature. (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure with a Rheomat RM180 (generally on the mobile 1 or 2).

The composition according to the invention may also contain additives such as nonionic surfactants different from the polyethoxylated nonionic surfactants of fatty acid ether type that may be used according to the invention, natural or synthetic polymeric thickeners, anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, non-ionic or cationic, associative or not, non-polymeric thickeners such as electrolytes, styling polymers, sugars, nacrants, opacifiers, sunscreens, vitamins or provitamins, perfumes, dyes, organic particles or mineral, preservatives, pH stabilizers, sugars. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additives and their amount so that they do not harm the properties of the composition of the present invention.

These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention can be prepared by any type of process for preparing the nanoemulsions conventionally known to those skilled in the art.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is prepared by a temperature-change-induced phase inversion (PIT) method.

Thus, another object of the present invention is a process for preparing a composition in the form of an oil-in-water type nanoemulsion as defined previously by phase inversion induced by the temperature change (PIT).

The phase inversion method induced by the temperature change comprises the following steps: a) a step of mixing between: an oily phase comprising the fatty substance (s), and optionally stable liposoluble adjuvants with a phase inversion temperature; the polyethoxylated nonionic surfactant (s) of the fatty alcohol ether type that can be used according to the invention, and optionally a co-emulsifier such as the ionic surfactant (s) when they are present, an aqueous phase containing water , hydrogen peroxide and optionally water-soluble solvents and water-soluble adjuvants stable at the phase inversion temperature, in order to obtain an emulsion, b) a step of heating said emulsion to a temperature located inside or above the phase inversion domain, preferably from 40 ° C. to 95 ° C., c) a step of cooling the emulsion, and d) optionally a step of adding a n or more additives, in particular, the unstable compound (s) at the phase inversion temperature such as perfumes.

The phase inversion temperature domain during step (b) can be observed visually by observing the changes in transparency and opacity of the emulsion, the emulsion being opaque when it is initially in the form of a direct oil-in-water emulsion, then transparent as it passes through the phase inversion zone, the transparent appearance is preserved when the system is cooled rapidly below the phase inversion temperature.

This temperature range can also be established, for a given composition, by measuring the conductivity of a sample of the composition that is heated. When approaching the phase inversion domain, the conductivity of the emulsion increases linearly to a temperature such that its value falls sharply (by a few orders of magnitude) from a few hundred pS to a value of almost zero. : This is the phase inversion domain. During the cooling step, after the phase inversion domain, the conductivity decreases linearly as a function of the decrease in temperature. Step (b) of the process may take place at a temperature ranging from 40 ° C. to 95 ° C., preferably at a temperature ranging from 50 ° C. to 90 ° C., and more preferably at a temperature ranging from 55 ° C. C at 90 ° C. Step (c) of the process can take place at a temperature ranging from 20 ° C to 95 ° C.

In particular, step (c) is a step of rapidly cooling the emulsion.

The cooling rate of step (c) proceeds at a rate of from 0.1 to 30 ° C / min, preferably from 0.2 to 25 ° C / min.

Another subject of the present invention is a process for bleaching or lightening keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, using the composition according to the invention, said composition possibly being able to be mixed with another composition before application to the fibers. .

Another subject of the present invention is a method for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular the hair comprising applying the composition as defined above, simultaneously or sequentially, with a dye composition comprising one or more oxidation dyes. and / or one or more direct dyes.

The dyeing composition used in this dyeing process may comprise: one or more conventional oxidation dye precursors chosen in particular from oxidation bases such as phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, orthoaliphates; aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts; optionally combined with one or more usual couplers, such as, for example, meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts and / or - one or more direct dyes chosen for example from synthetic direct dyes or natural, cationic, anionic or nonionic. By way of example of particularly suitable direct dyes, mention may be made of the nitro dyes of the benzene series; azo direct dyes; azomethines; methinic; azacarbocyanines such as tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines); quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone dyes; direct azine dyes; xanthenics; triarylmethanics; indoamines; indigoids; phthalocyanines, porphyrins and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures. In particular, mention may be made of azo direct dyes; methinic; carbonyls; azinic; nitro (hetero) aryl; tri- (hetero) aryl methanes; porphyrins; phthalocyanines and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.

The dye composition usually comprises dyes (oxidation and / or direct) in a content ranging for example from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition dye.

The dyeing composition may also comprise other ingredients such as fatty substances, chosen in particular from those listed above.

It may also comprise at least one alkaline agent, for example chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates, organic amines whose pKb at 25 ° C. is less than 12, and in particular less than 10, more advantageously lower. at 6; Among the salts of the amines mentioned above with acids such as carbonic acid, hydrochloric acid, it should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the highest basicity function.

Preferably, the amines are chosen from alkanolamines, comprising in particular a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C 1 -C 8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals; among the oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, among the amino acids and compounds of the following formula:

Rx Rz /

NWN "/ \

In which W is a C1-C6 alkylene radical optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl or C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or a C1-C6 aminoalkyl radical.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the dye composition contains ammonia and / or at least one alkanolamine and / or at least one basic amino acid, more preferably ammonia and / or at least one an alkanolamine, such as monoethanolamine, or mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the content of alkaline agents ranges from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the dyeing composition. Note that this content is expressed in NH3 in the case where the alkaline agent is ammonia.

The dyeing composition may also contain various adjuvants, such as, but not limited to, nonionic, cationic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants, and especially those mentioned above in connection with the oxidizing composition according to the invention; anionic, nonionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestering agents; perfumes ; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preservatives; opacifying agents.

The adjuvants above may be present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the dye composition.

The dye composition may also comprise water and / or one or more organic solvents. As organic solvent, there may be mentioned for example linear or branched, preferably saturated monoalcohols or diols, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2 methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol; polyols with more than two hydroxyl functions such as glycerol; polyol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and the alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, especially C1-C4, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture.

The organic solvents, when they are present, generally represent between 1 and 40% by weight, and preferably between 5 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition.

Preferably the dye composition is aqueous.

The pH of the dyeing composition generally varies from 6 to 11, preferably from 8.5 to 11.

It can be adjusted by adding acidifying agents such as hydrochloric acid, (ortho) phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, boric acid, as well as carboxylic acids, for example acetic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, or sulfonic acids. Alkaline agents such as those mentioned above can also be used.

In a preferred manner, the dyeing process according to the invention is carried out by applying to the keratin fibers the composition according to the invention in the presence of the aforementioned dyeing composition. These two compositions can be applied one after the other, without intermediate rinsing, or mixed just before application to the keratinous fibers.

The process can be repeated several times to obtain the desired color.

The previously described compositions, previously mixed or not, are applied to the dry or moist keratin fibers.

The compositions are usually left in place on the fibers for a period generally ranging from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 5 minutes to 30 minutes.

The temperature during the process is typically between 20 and 80 ° C, preferably between 20 and 60 ° C. At the end of the treatment, the keratinous fibers are advantageously rinsed with water. They can optionally be washed with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or allowed to dry.

Preferably, the method implementing the composition according to the invention is a method for direct dyeing of keratinous fibers.

The following examples illustrate the present invention and should not be construed in any way as limiting the invention. EXAMPLES

In the examples which follow and unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are indicated as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of each composition.

The average particle size (or oil drop) was determined by the dynamic light scattering (DLS) method, using a Malvern model Zetasizer Nano ZS particle size analyzer, equipped with a standard laser of 4 mW of power and at a wavelength of 633 nm. This device is also equipped with a correlator (25 ns to 8000 s, 4000 channels max.).

For determination, the samples were maintained at 25 ° C. The nanoemulsions were previously diluted with Mili-Q water with a dilution ratio of 1/5. The NNLS correlation function was used for data analysis. For each sample, three consecutive measurements were made.

Example 1 Preparation of Compositions According to the Invention

The compositions A to G according to the invention are prepared according to Table 1 and the protocol below (the quantities being expressed in g of raw material as it is).

Table 1

ma = active ingredient.

Compositions A to G were prepared as nanoemulsions using a PIT ("Phase Inversion Temperature") process following the protocol below. Deionized water is mixed with the polyethoxylated nonionic surfactant (oxyethylenated oleic alcohol (10 EO)) and the fatty substance (mineral oil). The whole is heated with stirring to about 80-90 ° C.

The mixture is then cooled rapidly with stirring.

An ancillary composition comprising the other constituents of the composition is added to the mixture with stirring.

The pH is then adjusted to 2.2 +/- 0.2.

Compositions B and D were stored for 2 months on the one hand at 25 ° C and on the other hand at 45 ° C. The size of the to-droplets of composition B is 25.4 nm and that of composition D is 26.9 nm.

The monitoring of the particle size during these storage periods shows that there has been almost no change in the average size in intensity of the oil droplets, both at 25 ° C and 45 ° C . In addition, the concentration of hydrogen peroxide has changed little during these storage periods.

No change in the appearance, color or odor during the storage of the nanoemulsions according to the invention has been observed.

Comparative Example 2:

The comparative composition H was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below (the amounts being expressed in g of raw material as it is).

The composition H comprises a nonionic surfactant different from the nonionic surfactants according to the invention. This composition was prepared by a PIT method analogous to that of Example 1.

The composition obtained is in the form of a particularly unstable oil-in-water nanoemulsion. Indeed, after 2 days of storage at 45 ° C, the composition H is totally destabilized (loss of homogeneity of the system by phase shift).

Example 3: Comparative test on performance in enlightenment

The following alkaline and oxidizing compositions (amounts expressed in g of active material) were prepared:

Alkaline compositions I and Γ

The pH of the two compositions I and Γ is 10.8 +/- 0.2.

Oxidizing compositions J and J '

The composition J is in the form of a nanoemulsion, unlike the comparative composition J '

At the time of use, the alkaline composition I is mixed with twice its weight of the oxidizing composition J according to the invention.

Similarly, the alkaline composition Γ is mixed with once its weight of the oxidizing composition J '.

Each mixture was applied on locks of natural brown hair. After 50 minutes of resting time at room temperature, the locks were rinsed, washed with a shampoo

standard and dried. The operation was repeated a second time on each wick.

Colorimetric measurements on the locks were then performed using a Datacolor Spectraflash SF600FX spectrophotometer. In the CIE Lab system (illuminant D65, 10 ° angle, specular component included), the L * parameter represents clarity.

The higher the value of L *, the greater the brightening.

The results obtained are as follows:

The use of the oxidizing composition J according to the invention leads to a higher value of L *, therefore to a better lightening compared to the comparative oxidizing composition J '.

Claims

An oxidizing cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water type nanoemulsion comprising: (i) one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from polyethoxylated fatty alcohols having a melting temperature of less than or equal to 35 ° C., (ü) one or more fatty substances selected from those having a melting temperature below 35 ° C, (iii) one or more chemical oxidizing agents, and (iv) water.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant (s) (i) have a melting point of less than or equal to 30 ° C, preferably less than or equal to 25 ° C.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant (s) (i) are of formula (1): R- (OCH2-CH2) n-OH (I) R representative use saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, branched or linear, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and s represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably greater than or equal to 4.

4. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that n is an integer less than 12.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the nonionic surfactants (i) represent from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 2 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more fatty substances are chosen from those which are liquid at 30 ° C, more preferably from those having a melting point of less than or equal to 25 ° C. .

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance or fats are chosen from among linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, the triglycerides of origin plant or synthetic and / or their mixtures, preferably from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral origin of more than 16 liquid carbon atoms, and triglycerides of vegetable origin liquids and / or mixtures thereof, more preferably from oils minerals, vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fat or fats represent from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 5 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the chemical oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the chemical oxidizing agent represents from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more ionic surfactants chosen from anionic, cationic and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

12. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises one or more cationic surfactants, preferably chosen from those corresponding to the following formulas: those having the following general formula (II):

in which the radicals R {to R4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the radicals Rj R4 denotes a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; X "is a group selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, laetates, (C 1 -C 4) alkylsulfates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylaryl sulfonates; quaternary of imidazoline, preferably those having the following formula (III):

(III) wherein Rs represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Rf represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; carbon, R7 is C1-C4alkyl, R8 is hydrogen, C1-C4alkyl; X 'is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, laetates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl or alkylaryl sulphonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively. carbon;

the di or quaternary triammonium salts, in particular of formula (IV) below:

in which Rg denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R9a) (R10a) (R1a) N- (CB2) 3, R9a5 R9, R1, R1, Ri2, R13 and Rj4, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to to 4 carbon atoms, and X "is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates; - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (V) below ;

(V) wherein; Ris is selected from C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups and C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; Riô is chosen from: ## STR2 ## the group - the groups R 2o which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based groups, - the hydrogen atom, Ris is chosen from:

the group R22 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, hydrogen, Ri7, Ri9 and Rss, which may be identical or different, are chosen; from C7-C23 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X "is a simple or complex union, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, then Rjg is R20 and when z is 0, then Rjg is R22; preferably, the cationic surfactant (s) are chosen from those of formula (II), more preferably still the cationic surfactant (s) are dichlorotalkylammonium chlorides.

13. Composition according to claim 11 or 12, characterized in that the ionic surfactant or surfactants represent from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Process for the preparation of an oil-in-water type nanoemulsion composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims by temperature change induced phase inversion (PIT).

15. A process for bleaching or lightening keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, using the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13, said composition being optionally mixed with another composition before application to the fibers.

16. A process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, comprising applying the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13, simultaneously or sequentially, with a dye composition comprising one or more dyes. oxidation and / or one or more direct dyes.