FR2923390A1 - Eye shadow, useful for the make-up of eyelids, comprises film forming polymer in solid particles form in aqueous dispersion and coloring agent comprising diffracting pigment, interference pigment, and/or reflective particle - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the invention is an eyeshadow comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles in aqueous dispersion and at least one coloring agent chosen from diffractive pigments, interferential pigments, reflective particles and mixtures thereof.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition of eyeshadow. The invention also relates to a process for making eyelids using the composition.

The eyeshadow consists of a suitable vehicle and various dyes for imparting a certain color to the makeup and after their application on the eyelids. They can be in aqueous or anhydrous form.

Eyes are sought to obtain, after depositing on the eyelids, a film having an intense and brilliant color effect. To obtain this effect, a solution consists, for example, in incorporating a very high level of pigments, in particular nacres, but without however obtaining the desired result and sometimes to the detriment of the texture of the formulation. The inventors have discovered that the use of particles of film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion and dyestuffs makes it possible to obtain a composition capable of forming on the keratin materials a glossy film having an intense color effect, moreover, the The resulting composition film is smooth and homogeneous and has good durability over time.

More specifically, the subject of the invention is an eyeshadow comprising at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles in aqueous dispersion and at least one coloring agent chosen from diffractive pigments, interference pigments and reflecting particles. and their mixtures.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic eyelid makeup process, including the application on the eyelids of the eyeshadow as defined above.

The invention also relates to the use of an eyeshadow as defined above for obtaining a makeup, deposited on the eyelids, brilliant, having an intense color effect, and a homogeneous deposition and / or good behavior.

1 / Coloring agent The coloring agent is chosen from diffractive pigments, interference pigments, reflexing pigments and mixtures thereof. It may be present in the eyeshadow according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, better still from 2 to 35% and even more preferably from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

INTERFERENCE PIGMENT

The expression "interference pigment" denotes a pigment capable of producing a color by an interference phenomenon, for example between the light reflected by a plurality of superimposed layers of different refractive indices, in particular a succession of layers of high and low refractive indices. An interference pigment may for example have more than four layers of different refractive indices.

The layers of the interference pigment may or may not surround a core, which may have a flattened shape or not. Nacres are examples of interferential pigments.

Nacres By nacre, we must understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, especially produced by some shellfish in their shell or synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. Examples of pearlescent agents that may be mentioned are pearlescent pigments such as iron oxide-coated titanium mica, bismuth oxychloride-coated mica, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a organic dye including the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

As an illustration of nacres that can be introduced as interference pigment in the first composition, mention may be made of gold-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chroma-lite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their blends.

A dyestuff chosen from nacres, in particular micas coated with at least one metal oxide layer, is preferably used. Interferential Reflective Particles These particles may be chosen from particles with a synthetic substrate coated at least partially with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide, selected for example from titanium oxides, in particular TiO 2, in particular iron Fe 2 O 3, tin, chromium, barium sulfate and the following materials: MgF 2, CrF 3, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO 2, Al 2 O 3, MgO, Y 2 O 3, SeO 3, SiO, HfO 2, ZrO 2, CeO 2, Nb 2 O 5, Ta 2 O 5, MoS 2 and mixtures thereof or alloys. By way of example of such particles, mention may be made, for example, of particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide, or particles of coated glass of brown iron oxide, of titanium oxide, of tin oxide or a mixture thereof such as those sold under the trademark REFLECKS by ENGELHARD.

Qoniochromatic pigment

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "goniochromatic pigment" denotes a pigment which makes it possible to obtain, when the composition is spread on a support, a color path in the plane a * b * of the CIE 1976 color space which corresponds to a variation Dh ° of the h ° angle angle of at least 20 ° when the observation angle is varied with respect to the normal between 0 ° and 80 °, for an angle of incidence of 45 ° light. The color path can be measured for example by means of an INSTRUMENT SYSTEMS brand spectrogoniorflectometer and GON 360 GONIOMETER reference, after the first composition has been spread in the fluid state with a thickness of 300 μm by means of a automatic spreader on an ERICHSEN brand and typ 24/5 contrast card, the measurement being made on the black background of the card. The goniochromatic pigment may be chosen, for example, from interferential multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents. In the case of a multilayer structure, this may comprise, for example, at least two layers, each layer being produced for example from at least one material selected from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF 2, CeF 3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO 2, Ge, Te, Fe 2 O 3, Pt, Va, Al 2 O 3, MgO, Y 2 O 3, S 2 O 3, SiO, HfO 2, ZrO 2, CeO 2, Nb 2 O 5, Ta 2 O 5, TiO 2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS 2, cryolite, alloys, polymers and their combinations. The multilayer structure may or may not have, with respect to a central layer, a symmetry at the chemical nature of the stacked layers. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained.

Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures are for example the following structures: Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, a pigment having this structure being marketed under the name SICOPEARL by the company BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / micaoxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name XIRONA by the company Merck (Darmstadt). The liquid crystal coloring agents comprise, for example, silicones or cellulose ethers onto which mesomorphic groups are grafted. Examples of goniochromatic liquid crystal particles that may be used are those sold by the company Chenix and those sold under the name HELICONE HC by the company Wacker. As goniochromatic pigment, it is also possible to use certain nacres, pigments with effects on synthetic substrate, in particular substrate type alumina, silicate, borosilicate, iron oxide, aluminum, or interference flakes from a polyterephthalate film. The material may further comprise dispersed goniochromatic fibers. Such fibers may have a length less than 80 pm, for example.

DIFFERENT PIGMENT By diffractive pigment is meant in the sense of the present invention a pigment capable of producing a color variation according to the angle of observation when illuminated by white light, due to the presence of a structure which diffracts the light. Such a pigment is still sometimes called holographic pigment.

A diffractive pigment may comprise a diffraction grating, capable for example of diffracting in a defined direction an incident monochromatic light ray. The diffraction grating may comprise a periodic pattern, in particular a line, the distance between two adjacent patterns being of the same order of magnitude as the wavelength of the incident light.

When the incident light is polychromatic, the diffraction grating will separate the different spectral components of the light and produce a rainbow effect. We can usefully refer to the structure of diffracting pigments in the article Pigments Exhibiting Diffractive Effects by Alberto Argoitia and Matt Witzman, 2002, Society of Vacuum Coaters, 45th Annual Technical Conference Proceedings 2002. The diffractive pigment can be made with patterns having different profiles, in particular triangular, symmetrical or not, in crenellations, of constant width or not, sinusoidal, in staircase.

The spatial frequency of the network and the depth of the patterns will be chosen according to the degree of separation of the different orders desired. The frequency can vary for example between 500 and 3000 lines per mm. Preferably, the particles of the diffractive pigment each have a flattened shape, and in particular are platelet-shaped.

The same pigment particle may comprise two crossed diffraction gratings, perpendicular or not, of the same linearization or not. The diffractive pigment may have a multilayer structure comprising a layer of a reflective material, covered at least on one side with a layer of a dielectric material. The latter can impart better rigidity and durability to the diffractive pigment. The dielectric material may then be chosen for example from the following materials: MgF 2, SiO 2, Al 2 O 3, AlF 3, CeF 3, LaF 3, NdF 3, SmF 2, BaF 2, CaF 2, LiF and their combinations. The reflective material may be chosen for example from metals and their alloys and also from non-metallic reflective materials. Among the metals that can be used are Al, Ag, Cu, Au, Pt, Sn, Ti, Pd, Ni, Co, Rd, Nb, Cr, Fe and their materials, combinations, alloys and their doping. rare earths. Such a reflective material may alone constitute the diffractive pigment which will then be monolayer.

Alternatively, the diffractive pigment may comprise a multilayer structure comprising a core of a dielectric material covered with a reflective layer at least on one side, or even completely encapsulating the core. A layer of a dielectric material may also cover the reflective layer (s). The dielectric material used is then preferably inorganic, and may be chosen for example from metal fluorides, metal oxides, metal sulfides, metal nitrides, metal carbides and their combinations. The dielectric material may be in the crystalline, semicrystalline or amorphous state. The dielectric material, in this configuration, may for example be selected from the following materials: MgF 2, SiO 2, SiO 2, Al 2 O 3, TiO 2, WO, AlN, BN, B 4 C, WC, TiC, TiN, N 4 Si 3, ZnS, glass particles , diamond-like carbons and their combinations. Alternatively, the diffractive pigment may be composed of a preformed dielectric or ceramic material such as a natural lamella mineral, for example peroskovite mica or talc, or synthetic lamellae formed from glass, alumina, SiO2, carbon, iron oxide / mica, mica coated with BN, BC, graphite, bismuth oxychloride, and their combinations. In place of a layer of dielectric material, other materials improving the mechanical properties may be suitable. Such materials may include silicone, metal silicides, semiconductor materials formed from Group III, IV and V elements, metals having a centered cubic crystal structure, cermet compositions or materials, semi-conductors -conductors, and their varied associations. The diffractive pigment used may especially be chosen from those described in US patent application US 2003/0031870 published on February 13, 2003.

A diffractive pigment may comprise for example the following structure: MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2, a diffractive pigment having this structure being marketed under the name SPECTRAFLAIR 1400 Pigment Silver by the company FLEX PRODUCTS, or SPECTRAFLAIR 1400 Pigment Silver FG. The proportion by weight of the MgF 2 can be between 80 and 95% of the total weight of the pigment.

Other diffracting pigments are marketed under the names Metalure Prismatic by the company ECKART. Other possible structures are Fe / Al / Fe or Al / Fe / Al. The size of the diffractive pigment may be, for example, between 5 and 200 μm, more preferably between 5 and 100 μm, for example between 5 and 30 μm. The thickness of the diffractive pigment particles may be less than or equal to 3 μm, more preferably 2 μm, for example of the order of 1 μm.

Reflective particles or particles Reflective particles are particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer or layers which constitute it and their physical and chemical natures, and the surface state, allow them to reflect. the incident light. This reflection may, if necessary, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or the mixture, when it is applied to the support to be made up, highlight points visible to the naked eye, that is, brighter points that contrast with their surroundings while appearing to shine. The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated therewith and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendition. They may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. These particles may have various forms, in particular be in the form of platelets or globular, in particular spherical. The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may have a multilayer structure or not and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, especially a reflective material. When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed for example of metal oxides, especially synthetically obtained titanium or iron oxides. When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, these may for example comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metal material. . The substrate may be monomaterial, multimaterial, organic and / or inorganic.

More particularly, it may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and mixtures thereof, this list not being limiting. The reflective material may include a layer of metal or a metallic material.

Reflective particles are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

Still as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a metal layer, there may also be mentioned particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver. Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Particles with a glass substrate coated with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company.

Particles comprising a metal substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium steel, bronze, titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, oxide cerium, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof. By way of example, mention may be made of aluminum, bronze or copper powders coated with SiO 2 sold under the name VISIONAIRE by the company ECKART. / Film-forming polymer

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase, generally known under the name of latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

The film-forming polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of dry matter (or active materials) ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.5 % to 20% by weight, and more preferably 1% to 15% by weight. Preferably, the composition comprises at least 0.5%, preferably at least 1%, better still at least 2% and most preferably at least 3% by weight of dry materials of film-forming polymer, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the present invention, the term "film-forming polymer" is intended to mean a polymer capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a film which is macroscopically continuous and adherent on the keratinous fibers, and preferably a cohesive film. and more preferably a film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said film can be isolatable and manipulable in isolation, for example when said film is produced by casting on a non-stick surface such as a Teflon or silicone surface.

Among the film-forming polymers that may be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. By radical-forming film-forming polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, especially ethylenic monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates). The radical-type film-forming polymers may in particular be polymers, or copolymers, vinylic polymers, in particular acrylic polymers. The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acidic group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acidic monomers. As the acid-group-bearing monomer, α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid may be used. preferably uses (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid, the acidic monomer esters are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular (meth) acrylates of alkyl, in particular of C1-C30 alkyl, preferably of C1-C20 alkyl, (meth) acrylates of aryl, in particular of C6-aryl, C10, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl, Among the alkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate and butyl methacrylate. isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, methacrylate Examples of hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates include hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate, and the like.

Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate. Particularly preferred (meth) acrylic acid esters are alkyl (meth) acrylates. According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, ie some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms. Amides of the acidic monomers include, for example, (meth) acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular C 2 -C 12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, N-t-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide. The vinyl film-forming polymers may also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above. Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate, and vinyl t-butyl benzoate. Styrene monomers include styrene and alpha-methyl styrene. Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas. The polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.

The polyesters can be obtained, in known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, especially diols. The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids are: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-acid. dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or in combination with at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are preferably chosen.

The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols. A diol chosen from among: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol is preferably used. As other polyols, it is possible to use glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylolpropane.

The polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As the diamine, there can be used ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta or para-phenylenediamine. As aminoalcohol, monoethanolamine may be used. The polyester may further comprise at least one monomer bearing at least one -SO3M group, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an NH4 + ammonium ion or a metal ion, such as for example an Na +, Li +, K +, Mg2 + ion, Cal +, Cul +, Fe2 +, Fei +. In particular, it is possible to use a bi-functional aromatic monomer comprising such a group -SO 3 M. The aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer additionally carrying a group -SO3M as described above may be chosen for example from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl and methylenediphenyl nuclei. An example of a bifunctional aromatic monomer also bearing an -SO 3 M group is sulfoisophthalic acid, sulphoterephthalic acid, sulphophthalic acid and 4-sulphonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid. It is preferred to use copolymers based on isophthalate / sulphoisophthalate, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol, cyclohexane di-methanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid.

As the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90, Neocryl A-1070, Neocryl A-1090, Neocryl BT-62, Neocryl A-1079 and Neocryl A-523 can be used by company AVECIA-NEORESINS, Dow Latex 432 by the company DOW CHEMICAL, Daitosol 5000 AD or Daitosol 5000 SJ by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran 5760 by the company Interpolymer, Allianz OPT by the company Rohm & Haas, the aqueous dispersions of acrylic or styrene / acrylic polymers sold under the brand name Joncyl by the company Johnson Polymer or the aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the names Neorez R-981 and Neorez R-974 by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, Avalure UR-405, Avalure UR-410, Avalure UR-425, Avalure UR-450, Sancure 875, Sancure 861, Sancure 878 and Sancure 2060 by the company GOODRICH, Impranil 85 by the company BAYER, Aquamere H-1511 by the company HYDROMER; the sulpopolyesters sold under the brand name Eastman AQ by Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl dispersions such as Mexomer PAM from Chimex and mixtures thereof.

According to an advantageous embodiment, an acrylic film-forming polymer is used in aqueous dispersion, said polymer resulting preferably from the polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer chosen from α, β-ethylenic carboxylic acids, their esters and their amides, as described above, The acrylic polymer is advantageously chosen from styrene / alkylacrylate / alkylmethacrylate copolymers.

As the acrylic polymer, those sold under the names "SYNTRAN 5190, SYNTRAN 5760, SYNTRAN 5009 by the company INERPOLYMER, DOW LATEX 424 by the company DOW CHEMICAL can be used.

Additional film-forming polymer

The composition according to the invention may also comprise an additional film-forming polymer which may be a water-soluble polymer solubilized in the aqueous phase of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a plasticizing agent promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be chosen from all compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of performing the desired function.

Water-soluble gelling agent The composition according to the invention may comprise a water-soluble gelling agent. The water-soluble gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from: homo-or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and their esters and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL F or VERSICOL K by the company ALLIED COLLOID, UTRAHOLD 8 by CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of SYNTHALEN K type, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names RETEN by the company HERCULES, polymethacrylate of sodium sold under the name DARVAN No. 7 by VANDERBILT, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name HYDAGEN F by HENKEL, polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers of PEMULEN type, the AMPS (Polyacrylamidomethyl propanesulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by CLARIANT company, the AMPS / acrylamide copolymers of the SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL type marketed by the company SEPPIC, and the polyoxyethylenated AMPS / alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or otherwise), proteins such as proteins of plant origin such as Wheat, soybean tetins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonates; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, and quaternized cellulose derivatives; Acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as: gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; alginates and carrageenans; glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals; deoxyribonucleic acid; mucopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

Some of these water-soluble gelling agents may also act as film-forming polymers. The water-soluble gelling polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter content ranging from 0.01% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight, better still from 1% to 30% by weight, or even 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The aqueous phase comprises water and / or at least one water-soluble solvent.

By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure), such as for example monoalcohols C2-C6 such as ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol.

The aqueous phase (water and optionally the solvent miscible with water) is generally present in the composition according to the present application in a content ranging from 5% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from from 5% to 70% by weight, and preferably ranging from 50% to 60% by weight.

The composition according to the invention may contain, in addition, at least one glycol to allow a good wetting of the pigments, that is to say to facilitate their implementation and their homogeneous dispersion (absence of agglomerate) in the aqueous medium of the composition. The glycol allows a good wetting of the skin facilitating the spreading of the composition on the eyelid. In the present application, the term "glycol" means a diol comprising from 2 to 8, and preferably from 2 to 4, carbon atoms.

The glycol may be selected from propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol and mixtures thereof.

The glycol may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 10% to 20% by weight.

According to one embodiment, the composition comprises at least 5% by weight and better still at least 10% of at least one glycol.

According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, the composition may further comprise a fatty phase dispersed in the aqueous phase to form an oil-in-water emulsion.

The fatty phase comprises at least one oil, which may be chosen from oils of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin, hydrocarbon and / or silicone, alone or as a mixture.

Examples of hydrocarbon-based oils include paraffin or petrolatum oil, mink, turtle, soybean oil, perhydrosqualene, sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil and seed oil. grapes, sesame, corn, arara, rapeseed, sunflower, cotton, apricot, castor oil, avocado, jojoba, olive or sprout; esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid; fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate , 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, myristate or 2-octyl dodecyl lactate, 2-diethyl hexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin triisostearate or diglycerin; higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; higher fatty alcohols such as cetanol, stearyl alcohol or oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyl dodecanol.

Examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned are volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; their mixtures.

The oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 20% by weight. and preferably ranging from 5% to 15% by weight.

The fatty phase may further comprise other additional fatty substances other than oils, such as waxes, pastes or gums.

As waxes (fats solid at room temperature), mention may be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as beeswax which may be modified, carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber waxes or sugar cane, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerites, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and C20 fatty alcohols. C60. It is also possible to use silicone waxes, among which mention may be made of alkyl, alkoxy and / or polymethylsiloxane esters and mixtures thereof.

As pasty fatty substances, mention may be made of fatty substances having a melting point ranging from 25 to 45 ° C. and / or a viscosity at 40 ° C. ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s measured by Contraves TV equipped with a mobile MS-r3 or Ms-r4 rotating at 60 Hz. As an example of pasty fatty substance, mention may be made of lanolines and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolines or oxypropylenated lanolines, having a viscosity of 18 to 21 Pa. .s, preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa.s, and / or a melting point of 30 to 55 ° C and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols, especially those having 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of about 20 to 35 ° C. and / or viscosity at 40 ° C. of 0, 1-40 Pa. $) Such as tri-isostearyl citrate or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; vinyl polylaurate; esters of cholesterol such as triglycerides of plant origin such as hydrogenated vegetable oils, viscous polyesters such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) and mixtures thereof. As triglycerides of vegetable origin, hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, such as Rheox's THIXINR, can be used. Mention may also be made of silicone pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) having pendant chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a melting point of 20-55 ° C., such as stearyl dime. thicones, in particular those sold by Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503 and DC25514, and mixtures thereof.

As gums, it is possible to use silicone gums (dimethiconol).

The additional fatty substance may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 10% to 15% by weight.

The composition according to the invention may comprise fillers which may be selected from those well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions.

The fillers can be mineral or organic, lamellar or spherical. They may represent from 0.1 to 25%, in particular from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Generally, the fillers used according to the invention are colorless or white, ie non-pigmentary, that is to say they are not used to impart a particular color or hue to the composition according to the invention, even if their use can inherently lead to such a result. As such, they are, in this respect, distinct from nacres, organic pigment materials such as, for example, carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. and inorganic pigment materials such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron oxides (black, yellow or red) or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate chromium and ferric blue, which are used to provide a hue and color effect to the compositions incorporating them. Such compounds are not covered, within the meaning of the invention, by the definition of non-pigmentary fillers. The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, in particular surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance that promotes dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

As filler, it is possible to use: talc, which is a hydrated magnesium silicate used in the form of particles generally less than 40 microns, micas which are aluminosilicates of various compositions in the form of scales having dimensions from 2 to 200 microns, preferably from 5 to 70 microns and a thickness of between 0.1 to 5 microns, preferably from 0.2 to 3 microns, these micas can be of natural origin such as musco-fast the margarite, roscoelite, lipidolite, biotite or of synthetic origin, - starch, in particular rice starch, - kaolin which is a hydrated aluminum silicate which is in the form of particles of isotropic form having dimensions generally less than 30 microns, - zinc and titanium oxides generally used in the form of particles having dimensions not exceeding a few microns, - calcium carbonate, carbo nate or magnesium hydrocarbonate, microcrystalline cellulose, silica in particular silica microspheres, synthetic polymer powders such as polyethylene, polyesters (isophthalate or polyethylene terephthalate), polyamides such as than those sold under the trade name "Nylon" or "Teflon" and silicone powders.

The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the coloring agent chosen from diffractive pigments, interferential pigments, reflecting particles, at least one additional coloring agent, producing a color by absorption of at least a part visible spectrum.

A color produced by absorption of light is sometimes sometimes called a chemical color, as opposed to colors produced by a phenomenon of interference, including diffraction, also called physical colors. The phenomenon of absorption of light energy by the coloring agent may be based on electronic transitions.

The coloring agent producing a color by an absorption phenomenon may consist of an organic or inorganic or hybrid pigment comprising both organic matter and inorganic material. The coloring agent may be a particulate compound or not.

When the coloring agent comprises a dye, it may be chosen from liposoluble and water-soluble dyes. The fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, 13-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, Violet DC 2, Orange DC 5, yellow quinoline.

The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and methylene blue. The dyes may for example represent from 0.1 to 20% of the weight of the composition, or even from 0.1 to 6%, when present. The coloring agent may also be an organic lacquer or pigment chosen from among the materials below and their mixtures: cochineal carmine, organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline dyes, of triphenylmethane, of fluoran, organic lakes or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dyes such as azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoids , xanthenic, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane, fluoran, these dyes may include at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of those known under the following names: D & C Blue No. 4, D & C Brown No. 1, D & C Green No. 5, D & C Green No. 6, D & C Orange No. 4, D & C Orange No. 5, D & C Orange No. 10, D & C Orange No. 11, D & C Red No. 6, D & C Red No. 7, D & C Red No. 17, D & C Red No. 21, D & C Red No. 22, D & C Red No. 27, D & C Red No. 28, D & C Red No. 30, D & C Red No. 31, D & C Red No. 33, D & C Red No. 34, D & C Red No. 36, D & C Violet No. 2, D & C Yellow No. 7, D & C Yellow # 8, D & C Yellow # 10, D & C Yellow # 11, FD & C Blue # 1, FD & C Green # 3, FD & C Red # 40, FD & C Yellow # 5, FD & C Yellow # 6. staining may be an organic lacquer supported by an organic support such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example. Among the organic lakes, mention may be made in particular of the following denominations: D & C Red No. 2 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 3 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 6 Barium Lake, D & C Red # 6 Barium / Strontium Lake, D & C Red # 6 Stronium Lake, D & C Red # 6 Potassium Lake, D & C Red # 7 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 7 Barium Lake , D & C Red # 7 Calcium Lake, D & C Red # 7 Calcium / Strontium Lake, D & C Red # 7 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 8 Sodium Lake, D & C Red # 9 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 9 Barium Lake , D & C Red # 9 Barium / Strontium Lake, D & C Red # 9 Zirconium Lake, D & C Red # 10 Sodium Lake, D & C Red # 19 Alumina Lake, D & C Red # 19 Barium Lake, D & C Red # 19 Zirconium lake, D & C Red # 21 Aluminum lake, D & C Red # 21 Zirconium lake, D & C Red # 22 Aluminum lake, D & C Red # 27 Aluminum lake, D & C Red # 27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium lake, D & C Red n ° 27 Barium lake, D & C Red # 27 Calc ium lake, D & C Red # 27 Zirconium lake, D & C Red # 28 Aluminum lake, D & C Red # 30 lake, D & C Red # 31 Calcium lake, D & C Red # 33 Aluminum lake, D & C Red # 34 Calcium lake, D & C Red No. 36 Lake, D & C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lake, D & C Blue No. 1 Aluminum Lake, D & C Green No. 3 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange No. 4 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange No. 5 Aluminum Lake, D & C Orange No. ° 5 Zirconium lake, D & C Orange # 10 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange # 17 Barium lake, D & C Yellow # 5 Aluminum lake, D & C Yellow # 5 Zirconium lake, D & C Yellow # 6 Aluminum lake, D & C Yellow # 7 Zirconium lake, D & C Yellow # 10 Aluminum lake, FD & C Blue # 1 Aluminum lake, FD & C Red # 4 Aluminum lake, FD & C Red # 40 Aluminum lake, FD & C Yellow # 5 Aluminum lake, FD & C Yellow # 6 Aluminum lake. The chemical materials corresponding to each of the organic dyestuffs mentioned above are mentioned in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Edition 1997, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association.

The coloring agent may be a composite pigment having a core at least partially coated with a bark. Inorganic or inorganic pigments are, for example: iron, titanium, zirconium, cerium, zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, blue, pink or yellow. ultramarine violet, chromium hydrate, chromium hydroxide, bismuth oxychloride, and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, the coloring material producing a color by absorption of at least a part of the visible spectrum is present in the composition according to the invention in a content of less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to at 5% by weight. The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one cosmetic additive chosen from the group formed by preservatives, perfumes, vitamins, moisturizing agents, softening agents, sunscreens, film-forming polymers, sequestering agents and alkalizing agents. or acidifying. Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the envisaged addition. The composition according to the invention may be prepared according to the usual methods of the fields under consideration.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage by mass. EXAMPLE 1 Carboxyvinyl Homopolymer (Carbopol Ultrez 10 from Noveon) 0.5 Acrylamide / AMPS Na Copolymer in Isohexadecane 1 with Polysorbate 80 (Simulgel 600 from SEPPIC) - Acrylic Acrylic / Acrylic Styrene Dispersion with 40% Dry Matter ( SYNTRAN 5760 from INTERPOLYMER) 8 MA - Polyvinyl pyrrolidone 1 - Silica microspheres (Kobo MSS 500/3) 1.5 - Mica titanium oxide / brown iron oxide (Gemstone moonstone G 004 from Engelhard) 21, 8 - Mica oxide titanium / black iron oxide (Engelhard Gemstone Tan Opal G 005) 8.2 - Butylene glycol 10 - Glycerin 5 - Disodium EDTA 0.2 - Sodium hydroxide 0.33 - Preservatives qs - Water qs 100 g Examples 2 to 5: 3 eyeshadows according to the invention were prepared (Examples 2 to 4 comprising pearlescent agents and a film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion) and a conventional eyeshadow (Example 5) comprising a hydrophilic film-forming polymer and pearlescent agents: Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Mica titanium oxide / 6 6 6 6 black iron oxide (Engelhard Gemstone Tan Opal G 005) Acrylic / styrene acrylic polymer 4.8 in aqueous 40% dry matter dispersion (SYNTRAN 5760 from INTERPOLYMER) Polyurethane in aqueous dispersion 5.88 to 49% by weight of dry matter (AVALURE UR 425 from GOODRICH) Ethyl acrylate 6 / methyl methacrylate copolymer, crosslinked in aqueous dispersion at 50% dry matter DAITOSOL 5000 AD by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.66 Measurement of gloss and saturation:

Gloss On a LENETA brand contrast card and FORM 1A PENOPAC reference card, a 300 μm thick wet layer of each composition was spread using an automatic spreader. The layer covers the white background and the black background of the map. It is left to dry for 24 hours on a bench thermostated at 30 ° C.

For each formulation, three gloss blackfield measurements are made using a micro-TRI-gloss (BYK Gardner) in a 60 ° / 60 ° geometry. The sample surface is subjected to beam of light rays at a defined angle and the reflected light is measured photoelectrically. Medium gloss surfaces are measured with a device having an angle of incidence of 60 ° and should have a value between 10 and 70 gloss units. Saturation Saturation characterizes the hue of the sample. The protocol consists in measuring the values a * and b * in the CIE space L * a * b * of the composition film, the saturation being given by the formula C * = (a * 2 + b * 2) 'I' 2. The values a * and b * of each spread of the preceding formulas are determined using the spectrophotometer MINOLTA CM2002, in specular mode excluded, under illuminant D65, average opening (CRIEMM).

The values are given in the following table: Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Average gloss at 60 ° 15.9 8.8 7.7 4.2 Tint angle h 42.92 43.22 43.14 42.73 Saturation C * 20.24 20.57 21.13 15.9520

Claims (2)

1. An eyeshadow comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles in aqueous dispersion and at least one coloring agent chosen from diffractive pigments, interference pigments, reflecting particles and their mixtures. 2. Eyeshadow according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the diffractive pigments are chosen from: - monolayer pigments comprising a reflective material selected from metals and their alloys, - the pigments having a multilayer structure having a layer a reflective material selected from metals and their alloys and also from nonmetallic reflective materials, covered at least on one side with a layer of a dielectric material. pigments composed of a preformed dielectric or ceramic material such as a natural lamella mineral, or synthetic lamellae, and mixtures thereof. 6. Eyeshadow according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the interference pigments are selected from nacres, interferential reflective particles, goniochromatic pigments and mixtures thereof. 7. Eyeshadow according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the goniochromatic pigments are selected from interferential multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents. 5. Eyeshadow according to claim 3, characterized in that the pearlescent agents are chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica covered with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride, mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or dyestuffs organic compounds and mixtures thereof. 6. Eyeshadow according to claim 3, characterized in that the interferential reflective particles are chosen from particles with a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide. 7. Eyeshadow according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the reflective pigments are chosen from - metal oxides, including synthetically obtained titanium or iron oxides, - multilayer structures comprising a natural or synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material including at least one metal or metal material. Eyeshadow according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the coloring agent is present in a content of 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably 1 to 40% by weight. more preferably 2 to 35% and more preferably 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. An eyeshadow according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion is an acrylic film-forming polymer. 10. Eyeshadow according to claim 9, characterized in that the acrylic film-forming polymer results from the polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer chosen from α, β-ethylenic carboxylic acids, their esters and their amides. .11. Eyeshadow according to Claim 9 or 10, characterized in that the acrylic film-forming polymer is chosen from styrene / alkylacrylate / alkylmethacrylate copolymers. 12. Eyeshadow according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is present in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight. Eyeshadow according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least 0.5%, preferably at least 1%, better still at least 2% and even more preferably at least 3% by weight. dry materials of film-forming polymer, relative to the total weight of the composition 14. Eyeshadow according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous phase is present in a content ranging from 5% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 70% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 60% by weight. 15. Eyeshadow according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a glycol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular chosen from propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3 butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol. 16. Eyeshadow according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the glycol is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 1% to 20% by weight. 17. Eyeshadow according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least 5% by weight, and better still at least 10% of at least one glycol. 1018. Eyeshadow according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a cosmetic additive chosen from the group formed by fillers, preservatives, perfumes, vitamins, moisturizing agents, agents and softeners, sunscreens, film-forming polymers, sequestering agents, basifying or acidifying agents. 19. An eyelid makeup process comprising applying to the eyelids an eye shadow as claimed in any one of the preceding claims. 20. Use of an eyeshadow according to any one of claims 1 to 18 for obtaining a makeup, deposited on the eyelids, brilliant and having an intense color effect and a homogeneous deposition and / or good performance .