FR2921263A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful for make-up and/or care of skin, lips and/or integuments, comprises fatty phase comprising alkyl stearate as wax, where the composition comprises polyethylene wax/totally devoid of polyethylene wax - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic make-up and / or care composition comprising at least one fatty phase comprising at least C20-C40 alkyl stearate as wax, said composition being free of polyethylene wax.The composition according to In particular, the invention has improved gloss and gloss-holding properties as well as ease of application (sliding and disintegration).

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic makeup and / or care composition, in particular of the lips. In the cosmetic field, the development of formulations having both good properties in terms of application and comfort, and properties that are satisfactory in terms of hold, in particular gloss retention and non-migration, are subject to a permanent goal. The compounds conventionally used in this type of compositions to provide gloss are viscous oils, such as polybutenes and / or pasty compounds such as diglyceryl polyacyladipate.

However, these compounds may under certain conditions cause problems of stickiness and migration. Moreover, it is known that it is possible to structure a composition using conventional waxes such as polyethylene wax. However, it has also been found that this addition of polyethylene wax generally takes place to the detriment of the comfort at the application and the brightness of the compositions obtained. As a result, there remains to date a need for a composition of makeup and / or care of the lips, acceptable from a sensory point of view and which has a satisfactory gloss while not substantially migrating and being pleasant and melting (creamy) to the application.

Consumers are always looking for a shiny product, comfortable to wear throughout the day, that does not migrate or little in the folds of the skin surrounding the lips or eyes such as wrinkles and wrinkles. wrinkles. Unexpectedly, the inventors have found that the use of a particular wax advantageously makes it possible to obtain satisfactory compositions in these terms. In particular, the use of this wax in the compositions free of polyethylene wax makes it possible to obtain the properties described above. The inventors have found that the use of a particular ester wax to replace the polyethylene wax, effectively prevents the migration of the applied composition and was particularly advantageous, especially in terms of softness and flux at the application. In addition, the compositions according to the invention have improved gloss and gloss retention properties, and are satisfactory in terms of non-migration.

In addition, although it is common for the glossy compositions to have a more or less oily character, when applied to the skin or lips, for example, which may prove to be unpleasant for the user, the compositions according to The invention makes it possible to overcome this disadvantage of the compositions of the prior art while having good gloss and gloss-holding properties. Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention are also very satisfactory in terms of ease of application (slipping and disintegration), comfort. More specifically, the present invention relates to a cosmetic makeup and / or care composition comprising at least one fatty phase comprising at least C20-C40 alkyl stearate as wax, said composition comprising less than 2%, even less than 1% by weight of polyethylene wax or being completely free of polyethylene wax. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is solid. The term solid characterizes the state of the composition at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Preferably, the composition according to the invention has, when it is solid, a hardness of between 30 and 300 g, or even 50 to 200 g.

Shear measurement protocol: The measurement is carried out according to the following protocol: A sample of the composition in question is hot cast in a mold of sticks 11.06 mm in diameter. The mold is then cooled in the freezer for about an hour. The lipstick stick is then stored at 20 ° C. The hardness of the samples is measured after 24 hours of waiting.

The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressed in gram, is measured by means of a DFGS2 dynamometer marketed by INDELCO-CHATILLON. The hardness corresponds to the maximum shear force exerted by a rigid wire 250 m diameter in tungsten advancing at a speed of 100 mm / min.

The technique described above is usually referred to as the so-called butter cutting method.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 10%, or better, less than 4% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is completely anhydrous. According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a makeup process in which a product as defined above is applied to the lips.

Fatty phase: The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase, and in particular at least two solid fatty substances chosen from waxes: an ester wax and an apolar wax.

Wax (s) The composition according to the invention comprises C 20 -C 40 alkyl stearate as a wax, sold under the name Kester WAX K82H by the company Kester Keunen. This wax is an ester wax as defined below. As indicated above, the particular use of this wax makes it possible to obtain a composition having improved brilliance and gloss retention, as well as comfort on application and satisfactory non-migration properties. In particular, the C 20 -C 40 alkyl stearate ester wax may be advantageously used to replace the polyethylene waxes in the makeup compositions.

The composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even less than 1% of polyethylene wax, or is completely free of polyethylene wax. Preferably, the C 20 -C 40 alkyl stearate ester wax is present in the composition in a content ranging from 2 to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 2 to 10%. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises only one wax: C20-C40 alkyl stearate.

Advantageously, according to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one second additional wax, different from the C 20 -C 40 alkyl stearate wax and different from the polyethylene wax. The waxes considered in the context of the present invention are generally lipophilic compounds, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. ° C up to 200 ° C and especially up to 120 ° C. In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C., and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax (or paste as appropriate) placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the rate of heating of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax (or pasty) sample is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the second wax present in the composition and associated with the C 20 -C 40 alkyl stearate wax is chosen from apolar waxes and ester waxes. By ester wax is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function.

In particular, by ester wax is meant a wax which consists solely of ester wax and not a mixture which would also comprise other types of waxes which are not ester waxes, such as wax, beeswax, wax synthetic bees or candellila wax, or else Kester Wax K 82 P ((hydroxystearyloxy) Cao-C40 alkyl stearate) for example which are not ester waxes within the meaning of the present invention. In particular, it is possible to use, as ester wax, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64 and 22L73 by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.

As ester wax that may be used, mention may also be made of di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S by the company Hetenere. As ester wax, one also understands esters of formula R1000R2 in which RI and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which can contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and whose melting point temperature varies from 25 to 120 ° C.

Preferably, the second wax is an apolar wax. By apolar wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C as defined below, 8a is equal to 0 (J / cm 3). The apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P. In particular, by apolar wax is meant a wax which is formed only apolar wax and not a mixture that would also include other types of waxes that are not apolar waxes. As an illustration of apolar waxes suitable for the invention, there may be mentioned hydrocarbon-based waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite. As ozokerite mention may be made of O: / OKER 1`l "1-WAX SP 7.020 P.

As microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of MULTIWAX W 445 marketed by SONNEBORN and MICROWAX HW and BASE WAX 30540 marketed by PARAMELT. Preferably, the composition may comprise an apolar wax content ranging from 2 to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular it may contain from 2 to 10%. According to an advantageous embodiment, when the composition comprises at least one apolar wax, the weight ratio apolar wax / ester wax in the composition ranges from 0.5 to 5, preferably from 0.8 to 3.

According to a first advantageous embodiment, the composition comprises only ester waxes and apolar waxes as defined above. In particular, according to this embodiment, the composition does not comprise wax consisting of a mixture of waxes, in particular waxes of different polarities, such as beeswax or Candellila wax, for example. According to another embodiment, the second wax is neither specifically an apolar wax, nor specifically an ester wax as defined above. Specifically, it is meant a wax which, for example in the case of ester wax, is not at all an ester wax, or a wax which is a mixture of an ester wax and at least one other wax which is not an ester wax. Such additional wax may thus advantageously be a mixture of different waxes, and in particular a mixture of ester wax and apolar wax. As additional wax, we can particularly use: beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, wax Ouricury, Alfa Wax, Berry Wax, Shellac Wax, Japanese Wax and Sumac Wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, hydrogenated castor oil, or silicone waxes (C30-45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE) and fluorinated waxes.

According to a first preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise more than two different waxes and, advantageously, it comprises only two different waxes, that is to say that the composition comprises only one only one other wax (preferably an apolar wax) in combination with the C 2 -C 4 alkyl stearate wax. The fact of limiting the number of waxes makes it possible in particular to reduce the problems of stability of the composition especially over time, and in particular in the case where the latter is in the form of a stick, and in particular to avoid the phenomena of recrystallization. on the surface of the composition. Advantageously according to this embodiment, the composition comprises an apolar wax as defined above, in combination with the C 2 -C 4 alkyl stearate wax.

The fact that the composition comprises two waxes of different polarities makes it possible, in particular, greater freedom in terms of formulation and in particular concerning the choice of the liquid fatty phase, that is to say the oils present in the composition, while at the same time obtaining good cosmetic properties. In particular, this makes it possible to use a mixture of oils of different polarities.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises, in addition to the C20-C40 alkyl stearate wax and the second wax, at least one additional third wax. The third additional wax may be an ester wax, an apolar wax or a wax which is neither specifically an ester wax nor specifically an apolar wax within the meaning of the present invention.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of waxes ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular it may contain from 0.5 to 15%, more particularly from 1 to at 13%, or more preferably 8-13%.

Preferably, the composition may comprise a total ester wax content ranging from 2 to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular it may contain from 2 to 10%. Preferably, when the composition according to the invention is in solid form, it comprises a total content of waxes ranging from 8 to 13%. Paste compounds The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the waxes, another solid fatty substance such as at least one pasty compound.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction. and a solid fraction.

In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.

The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is preferably 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 50 to 100%, more preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.

The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. The pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty compound may advantageously be chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives - polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds - fluorinated or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds - vinyl polymers, in particular: homopolymers of olefins, copolymers of olefins, and homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes • linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group • homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C 8 alkyl groups -C30 homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols, preferably C2-C50 diols; - and their mixtures.

Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the esters of diglycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol, arachidyl propionate sold under the trademark Waxenol 801 by Alzo; phytosterol esters; triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives; pentaerythritol esters; non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between an acid dicarboxylic acid or a polycarboxylic acid linear or branched C4-050 and a diol or polyol C2-050, - the ester aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of a hydroxycarbo acid ester aliphatic xyl with an aliphatic carboxylic acid, - the polyesters resulting from the esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester, said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups such as the products Risocast DA-H, and Risocast DA-L, the esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer, if appropriate, esterified on their (their) function (s) alcohol (s) or acid (s) free (s) by acidic radicals or alcohols such as than Plandool-G, - and their mixtures. Among the pasty compounds of plant origin, a mixture of soy sterols and oxyethylenated (5OE) oxypropylene pentaerythritol (5 PO), marketed under the reference Lanolide by the company VEVY, will preferably be chosen.

Preferably, the composition comprises a total pasty fatty substance content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 40% or even better, from 5 to 30%.

Liquid fatty phase: Preferably, the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises in particular a liquid fatty phase based on at least one oil.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one glossy oil. The gloss oil is preferably a non-volatile oil. By oil is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

The gloss oil preferably has a high molecular weight of from 650 to 10,000 g / mol, and preferably from 750 to 7500 g / mol.

The gloss oil that can be used in the present invention can be chosen from:

lipophilic polymers such as: polybutylenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 1340 g / mol), INDOPOL H -1500 (MW = 2160g / mol) marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO, -hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by AMOCO (MW = 1340 g / mol), VISEAL 20000 30 marketed or manufactured by SYNTEAL (MW = 6000 g / mol), REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by WITCO (MW = 1000 g / mol), polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: PURESYN 10 (MW = 723 g / mol), PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by the company MOBIL CHEMICALS, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as: the vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer, ANTARON Vû216 marketed or manufactured by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g / mol),

esters such as: linear fatty acid esters having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697 g / mol), hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW = 965 g / mol), aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757 g / mol), esters of fatty alcohol or branched fatty acids in Cam, -C28 such as those described in US Pat. EP-A-0 955 039, and in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate (MW = 697 g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MM = 891 g / mol) , tri decyl-2 glyceryl tetradecanoate (MW = 1143 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202 g / mol), polyglyceryl tetraisostearate -2 (MW = 1232 g / mol) or else tetra decyl -2 pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate (MW = 1538 g / mol), - a polyester resulting from the esterification of at least one carboxylic acid triglyceride (s) (s) hydroxylated with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and an optionally unsaturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, such as castor oil of succinic acid and isostearic acid sold under the reference Zénigloss by Zenitech, - esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer of the general formula HO-R 1 - (- 000-R 2 -COO-R 1) h -OH, wherein: R 1 represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of the dilinoleic diacid R 2 represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9, in particular the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5 and DD-DA7, silicone oils such as phenyl silicones such as Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker (MW = 9000 g / mol), phenyl trimethicones (such as phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC5 56 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes; oils of plant origin, such as sesame oil (MW = 820 g / mol),

- and their mixtures.

Preferably, the glossy oil may represent from 1 to 99%, preferably from 10 to 80%, and more preferably from 5 to 70% and better still from 10 to 30% of the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the glossy oil has a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.45 and in particular ranging from 1.45 to 1.6.

Other oils The composition according to the invention may comprise additional non-volatile oils other than gloss oil, which may be hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated oils. The composition according to the invention can thus comprise an additional oil independently of the presence of a glossy oil.

These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. Hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

By silicone oil is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

By way of example of additional non-volatile oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: vegetable hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic acids or octanoic or jojoba oil; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petroleum jelly; fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleic alcohol; fluorinated oils which may be partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based; silicone oils, such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; fatty acids having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as oleic acid; and their mixtures.

The additional nonvolatile oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 1 to 60% by weight, better still from 5 to 50% by weight and even more preferably from 5 to 40% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a volatile oil content of less than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 30% and better still less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. . More preferably, the composition is free of volatile oil.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0 to 13 Pa at 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). These oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane ( also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars' or permetyls, branched esters C8-C16 neopentanoate isohexyl, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell or by Shell, can also be used. Preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 10-6 m 2 / s), and especially having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. silicon, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler, especially in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight.

For the purposes of the present invention, "fillers" are understood to mean particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.

The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (nylon) powders (Orgasol from Atochem), poly-B-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap Dow Corning) and Silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads) of Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium arate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

According to a still more preferred aspect of the invention, polyurethane particles are used as filler, also called polyurethane powder. The expression "polyurethane particles" is intended to denote, in the present invention, particles made of a material at least in part of the polyurethane type. They are advantageously in a crosslinked form. The particles used in the present invention have, according to a particular embodiment, an average size ranging from 4 to 20 m, and in particular from 5 to 15 m. The fillers (particles) used in the present invention are generally and preferentially substantially spherical.

The expression spherical means a substantially spherical form, especially in the form of beads, preferably with a particle size of between 1 and 15 microns, preferably of the order of 10 microns. According to a particular embodiment, the polyurethane particles used are particles comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400 ° or PLASTIC POWDER D-800 ° from the company TOSHIKI.

Preferably, the polyurethane powder is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight. %.

Physiologically Acceptable Medium The composition of the invention must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, namely to contain a physiologically acceptable medium which is non-toxic and may be applied to the lips of human beings. By cosmetically acceptable is meant in the sense of the invention a composition of appearance, smell and pleasant touch.

Structuring agent / thickener

The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the waxes possibly present, at least one structuring agent chosen from semi-crystalline polymers, lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof.

Semi-crystalline polymers Semi-crystalline polymers are compounds having at least two units, preferably at least 3 units and especially at least 10 repeat units. By "semi-crystalline polymer" is meant polymers having a crystallizable portion, a pendant crystallizable chain or a crystallizable block in the backbone, and an amorphous portion in the backbone and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in which particular fusion (solid-liquid transition). When the crystallizable portion is in the form of a crystallizable block of the polymer backbone, the amorphous portion of the polymer is in the form of an amorphous sequence; in this case, the semi-crystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type, comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block. By "sequence" is generally meant at least 5 identical repetition patterns. The crystallizable sequence (s) are then of a different chemical nature from the amorphous sequence (s). The semi-crystalline polymer has a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C (especially from 30 ° C to 80 ° C), preferably from 30 ° C to 60 ° C. This melting temperature is a first order change of state temperature. This melting temperature can be measured by any known method and in particular using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.). Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer (s) to which the invention applies have a number average molecular mass greater than or equal to 1000. Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer (s) of the composition of the invention. have a number average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2,000 to 800,000, preferably from 3,000 to 500,000, more preferably from 4,000 to 150,000, especially less than 100,000, and better still from 4,000 to 99,000. they have a number-average molecular mass greater than 5,600, for example from 5,700 to 99,000. By "chain or crystallizable block" is meant, in the sense of the invention, a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, during or lateral to the backbone of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. Advantageously, the "crystallizable pendant chain" can be a chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. The semi-crystalline polymer may be chosen from block copolymers comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block, homopolymers and copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain per repeating unit, and mixtures thereof. Such polymers are described for example in EP 1396259.

According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer is derived from a crystallizable chain monomer chosen from saturated C14 to C22 alkyl (meth) acrylates. As a particular example of a structuring semi-crystalline polymer that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the Intelimer products from Landec, described in the brochure "Intelimer Polymers", Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97). These polymers are in solid form at ambient temperature (25 ° C.). They carry crystallizable side chains.

Lipophilic Gelling Agents According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one gelling agent. The gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents.

As inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, there may be mentioned optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C 10 -C 22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, such as, for example, sold under the name Bentone 38V by the company ELEMENTIS.

It is also possible to mention fumed silica optionally treated hydrophobic surface whose particle size is less than 1 m. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called silica silylate according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example sold under the references Aerosil R812 by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530 by the company CABOT, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as silica dimethyl silylate according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the Aerosil R972 references, and Aerosil R974 by the DEGUSSA company, CAB-O-SIL TS-610 and CAB-O-SIL TS-720 by CABOT.

The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm. Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6, KSG16 and KSG18 by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C and Trefil E-506C. by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556, SR 5CYC gel, SR DMF 10 gel and SR DC 556 gel by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204 and JK 113 by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel by Dow Chemical; galactomannans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C1-C6 alkyl chains, and in particular C1 C3 and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of the diblock, triblock or radial type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylenepropylene) type, such as those sold under the name Kraton by the company SHELL CHEMICAL CO or else of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by PENRECO under the name Versagel, such as, for example, mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).

Lipophilic gelling agents that may also be mentioned include polymers having a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone having hydrocarbon-based repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one fatty chain. pendant and / or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being bonded to these hydrocarbon units, as described in applications WO-A-02/056847, WO-A-02/47619 whose content is incorporated by reference; in particular polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US-A-5783657 whose contents are incorporated by reference. Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL or Rheopearl KL by the company CHIBA FLOUR.

It is also possible to use silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680.

These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establish hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.

Film-forming agent The compositions may comprise at least one film-forming polymer. According to one embodiment, the composition contains at least one polymer which may be chosen from film-forming polymers. For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound having at least 2 repeating units, and preferably at least 3 repeating units.

By "film-forming" polymer is meant a polymer capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on keratin materials.

The polymer may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 1% to 25% by weight.

In one embodiment, the organic film-forming polymer is at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of: film-forming polymers soluble in an organic liquid medium, in particular liposoluble polymers, when the organic liquid medium comprises at least one oil; dispersible film-forming polymers in an organic solvent medium, in particular polymers in the form of nonaqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions in silicone or hydrocarbon oils; In one embodiment, the nonaqueous polymer dispersions comprise polymer particles stabilized on their surface by at least one stabilizing agent; film-forming polymers in the form of aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, often called latexes; in this case, the composition comprises an aqueous phase; Water-soluble film-forming polymers; in this case, the composition comprises an aqueous phase. Among the film-forming polymers that may be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free-radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. As film-forming polymer, mention may in particular be made of acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, silicone polymers, silicone-grafted acrylic polymers, polyamide polymers and copolymers, and polyisoprenes.

It is understood that the amount of these additional compounds can be adjusted by those skilled in the art so as not to damage the desired effect in the context of the present invention.

Dyestuffs The cosmetic composition according to the invention may contain a coloring agent which may be chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more dyestuffs chosen from water-soluble dyes and pulverulent dyestuffs such as pigments, nacres and flakes well known to those skilled in the art. The dyestuffs may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight.

The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film.

The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, especially from 0.01 to 15% by weight, and in particular from 0.02 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. . As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and the like. chromium hydrate. It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference COVERLEAF NS or JS by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and has a contrast ratio of about 30.

The coloring material may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by MIYOSHI under the reference PC BALL PC-LL-100P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketo pyrrolopyrrole (DPP) lacquers. ) described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537.

By nacres, it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica covered with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a dye. organic and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of mother-of-pearl TIMICA, FLAMENCO 20 and DUOCHROME (based on mica) marketed by the company ENGELHARD, TIMIRON pearls marketed by the company MERCK, nacres on the basis of mica PRESTIGE marketed by the company ECKART and nacres based on synthetic mica SUNSHINE marketed by the company SUN CHEMICAL. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a reflection of yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper. As an illustration of nacres that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of gold-colored nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 30 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.

By dyes, it is necessary to understand generally organic compounds soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in a hydroalcoholic phase. The first and / or second cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble or liposoluble dyes. Liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, 13-carotene, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, yellow quinoline. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect.

This effect is different from a simple effect of conventional hue, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional dyestuffs such as monochromatic pigments. In the sense of the invention, stabilized means devoid of color variability effect with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature. For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, as well as fibers, in particular interferential fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention. The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; particles comprising a substrate, organic or inorganic, monomatiere or multimaterial at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and the mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (eg, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals. The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides. As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names STARBRITE 1200 EAC by the company SIBERLINE and METALURE by the company ECKART. Mention may also be made of copper metal powders or alloy mixtures such as the references 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the names ROTOSAFE 700 from the company ECKART the silica-coated aluminum particles marketed under the name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER by ECKART and the metal alloy particles such as bronze powders (copper and zinc alloy) coated with silica marketed under the name of Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from Eckart. It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those marketed by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names MICROGLASS METASHINE. The goniochromatic coloring agent may be chosen for example from interferential multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents. Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures that can be used in compositions produced in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR by the company FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3, and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name SICOPEARL by BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name XIRONA by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments of silica / titania / tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic by the company Merck, the silica / brown iron oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA. INDIAN SUMMER by MERCK and the structural pigments silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide marketed under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE by the company MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 structure, grey-green to gray-red is passed for SiO 2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for SiO2 layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm.

Mention may be made, by way of example of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, those marketed by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER. As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by the company CHENIX as well as those marketed under the name HELICONE HC by the company WACKER. Additional Usual Cosmetic Ingredients The composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient which may be chosen especially from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, anti-wrinkle active agents, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, anti-free radical agents, deodorant agents, sequestering agents, film-forming agents, and mixtures thereof. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional ingredients and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a solid foundation, a stick or a paste of lipstick, a concealer product, or an eye contour, an eyeliner or a mascara. , eye shadow, body make-up product or a product for coloring the skin. In particular, the composition of the invention may be in the form of a colored lipstick product such as lipstick, lip gloss or pencil, possibly with care or treatment properties. It can be in the form of an anhydrous stick. The invention also relates to a process for making up or caring for the skin and / or the lips and / or integuments, in which the composition according to the invention is applied. Finally, the invention also relates to the use of the C 20 -C 40 alkyl stearate ester wax, optionally in the presence of an apolar wax, and in the absence of polyethylene wax or in the presence thereof in a amount less than 2%, or even 1% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, to prepare a cosmetic composition for the skin and / or the lips and / or superficial body growths, capable of providing a film of shine and holding of the gloss improved.

The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field. For example, it can be manufactured by the following method. Firstly, the fillers and the pigments can be milled in part of the oily phase.

The remaining fat-soluble ingredients can then be mixed at a temperature of the order of 100 ° C. The ground material or the pre-dispersed actives can then be added to the oily phase. Any hydrophilic active agents can then be dispersed using a mechanical stirrer.

Finally, the composition may be poured into a mold capable of providing the final shape (for example of a stick) and the whole may be allowed to cool to room temperature and / or in a freezer.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples given for illustrative and non-limiting purposes. Percentages are percentages by weight.

Examples 1 and 2: Lipsticks

Two formulations of lipsticks are prepared: one according to the invention (composition 2) incorporates the C20-40 alkyl stearate ester wax and an apolar wax: the microcrystalline wax. the other, so-called comparative (composition 1), replaces in the preceding composition the ester wax with an apolar wax: polyethylene wax.

The compositions are obtained according to the following protocol: In a first step, the fillers and the pigments are milled in part of the oily phase.

The remaining fat-soluble ingredients are then mixed at a temperature of the order of 100 ° C. The ground material or the pre-dispersed actives are then added to the oily phase. Finally, the composition is poured into a mold which makes it possible to obtain sticks 5 of 11.06 mm in diameter and the whole is left to cool in a freezer for about an hour. Raw materials (Name TYPE Composition 1 Composition 2 INCI US) Comparative according to the invention BHT ACTIVE 0.06 0.06 YELLOW 5 LAKE COLOR 0.85 0.85 IRON OXIDES (and) IRON COLORING 0.95 0.95 OXIDES BLUE 1 LAKE COLOR 0.2 0,2 RED 7 COLOR 0.45 0.45 TITANIUM DIOXIDE COLOR 0.2 0,2 OCTYLDODECANOL BODY FATTY 2 2 MICROCRYSTALLINE BODY FAT 6,04 6,04 WAX (Microwax HW WAX PARMELT) ARACHIDYL FATTY BODY 6 6 PROPIONATE BIS-DIGLYCERYL FATTY BODIES 10,58 10,58 POLYACYLADIPATE-2 DIISOSTEARYL MALATE BODY FATS 16,37 16,37 OCTYLDODECYL BODY FATS 16,13 16,13 NEOPENTANOATE C20-40 ALKYL BODY FATS - 4,15 STEARATE (KESTER WAX WAX K82H) POLYETHYLENE WAX BODY FIBER 4.15 - (Performalene 500-L WAX New Phase Technologies) MICA (and) TITANIUM NACRE 4.3 4.3 DIOXIDE POLYVINYL LAURATE POLYMER 9 9 HDI / TRIMETHYLOL LOAD 2 2 HEXYLLACTONE CROSSPOLYMER ("Plastic Powder D400") DIMER DILINOLEYL POLYMER 16 16 DIMER DILINOLEATE (DD-DA-7 NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL) PHENYL TRIMETHICONE SILICONE 4.72 4.72 (DC 556 from Dow Corning) Total 100 100 It appears that the composition 2 according to the invention is softer and melting on application than the comparative composition 1. In addition, the composition 2 according to the invention migrates less than the composition 1.

Finally, it is observed that the composition 2 according to the invention has the application improved gloss compared to the comparative composition 1 as well as a better gloss performance over time. In particular, 2 hours after application, it is observed that the deposit on the lips made with the composition 2 is brighter than that produced with the composition 1.

Examples 3 and 4: Lipstick stick

The following formulations were prepared in the same manner as previously described. Raw Materials (Name TYPE Composition 3 according to Composition 4 according to INCI US) the invention the invention BHT ACTIVE 0.06 0.06 YELLOW 5 LAKE COLOR 0.85 0.85 IRON OXIDES (and) IRON COLORING 0.95 0, 95 OXIDES BLUE 1 LAKE COLOR 0.2 0,2 RED 7 COLOR 0.45 0.45 TITANIUM DIOXIDE COLOR 0.2 0,2 OCTYLDODECANOL BODY FATTY 2 2 MICROCRYSTALLINE BODY 7,64 4,55 WAX (Microwax HW GRAS from PARMELT ) ARACHIDYL WAX BODY FATTY 6 6 PROPIONATE BIS-DIGLYCERYL FATTY BODIES 10.58 10.58 POLYACYLADIPATE-2 DIISOSTEARYL MALATE FATTY BODIES 16.37 16.37 OCTYLDODECYL BODY FUMS 16.13 16.13 NEOPENTANOATE C20-40 ALKYL BODY 2.55 5.64 STEARATE (KESTER GRAS WAX K82H) WAX 15 MICA (and) TITANIUM NACRE 4.3 4.3 DIOXIDE POLYVINYL LAURATE POLYMER 9 9 HDI / TRIMETHYLOL LOAD 2 2 HEXYLLACTONE CROSSPOLYMER ("Plastic Powder D400") DIMER DILINOLEYL POLYMER 16 16 DIMER DILINOLEATE (DD-DA-7 NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL) PHENYL TRIMETHICONE SILICONE 4.72 4.72 (DC 556 Dow Corning) Total 100 100 Compositions 3 and 4 of ro According to the invention, the composition of the invention has, as with composition 2, improved flux-setting, gloss and gloss-holding properties, as well as non-migration properties compared with the comparative composition 1.

Claims (33)

Cosmetic make-up and / or care composition comprising at least one fatty phase comprising at least C20-C40 alkyl stearate as wax, said composition comprising less than 2% or even less than 1% by weight of polyethylene wax or being completely free of polyethylene wax. 2. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a total C20-C40 alkyl stearate content ranging from 2 to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from from 2 to 10%. 3. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises at least one second wax different from said C20-C40 alkyl stearate. 4. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said second wax is an ester wax. 5. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said ester wax is chosen from: - waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, - ester waxes of formula R1000R2 in which R1 and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains with a number of atoms ranging from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and whose melting point temperature varies from 25 to 120 ° C, and - tetrastearate di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane). 6. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that said second wax is an apolar wax. 7. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises a total content of apolar wax ranging from 2 to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 2 to 10%. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 6 and 7, characterized in that said apolar wax is a hydrocarbon wax. 9. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said hydrocarbon wax is chosen from: microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, and ozokerite. 10. Composition according to any one of claims 6 to 9, characterized in that the weight ratio of second apolar wax / ester wax in the composition ranges from 0.5 to 5, preferably from 0.8 to 3. 11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises not more than two different waxes. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises two waxes, including said C20-C40 alkyl stearate. 13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it comprises at least a third additional wax. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a total content of waxes ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 0.5 at 15%, more particularly ranging from 1 to 13%, or more preferably from 8 to 13%. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 10%, or better, less than 4% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is completely anhydrous. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition comprises at least one filler. 17. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said filler consists of polyurethane particles. 18. Composition according to any one of claims 15 and 16, characterized in that said filler is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0, 1 to 15% by weight, preferably 1 to 10%. 19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one pasty fatty substance. 20. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises a total pasty fatty substance content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 40% or even better, from 5 to 30%. 21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one liquid fatty phase. 22. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase comprises a glossy oil chosen from polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, polydecenes, hydrogenated polydecenes, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as the polyvinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer, the pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, tridecyl trimellitate, triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, glyceryl tri-2-tetradecanoate, phenyl silicones, and vegetable oils such as sesame oil. 23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises that it comprises less than 2% or even less than 1% or is completely free of volatile oil. 24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one coloring agent in a proportion of 0.01 to 40%, especially 0.01 to 30%, and in particular of 0, From 5 to 25%, by weight relative to the total weight of said product. 25. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said coloring agent is chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents, water-soluble or liposoluble dyes and mixtures thereof. 26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one semi-crystalline polymer. 27. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition is in solid form. 28. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it has a hardness of between 30 and 300g, or even 50 to 200g. 29. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of cast products in stick or cup. 30. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a solid foundation, stick or lipstick paste, concealer product, or eye contours, d. eyeliner, mascara, eye shadow, body make-up product or a skin coloring product. 31. A process for making up or caring for the skin and / or the lips and / or integuments, in which a composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims is applied. 32. Use of C20-C40 alkyl stearate, in the absence of polyethylene wax or in the presence thereof in an amount of less than 2%, or even 1% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, for preparing a cosmetic composition for the skin and / or the lips and / or integuments, capable of providing an improved gloss film. 33. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said composition further comprises an apolar wax as defined in claims 6 to 10.