FR2991877A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful for protecting extracellular matrix and for delaying or fighting against aging of the skin and/or the appearance of signs of aging skin, comprises an extract of Perichlaena richardii - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular that of anti-aging products. The present invention relates more particularly to a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of Perichlaena richardii and its use.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of Perichlaena richardii. The present invention also relates to the use of this composition for delaying or for combating aging of the skin and / or the appearance of signs of aging of the skin. The present invention also relates to the use of this composition for protecting the dermal extracellular matrix. Finally, the present invention relates to the use of this composition for inhibiting the synthesis of metalloproteinases. The changes caused by aging are observed at all levels of the skin. However, the most important alterations are located at the level of the dermis and particularly at the level of the cells of the basal layer of the epidermis causing changes in the morphology and cellular functioning. The number of melanocytes as well as the number of Langerhans cells is decreased. The epidermal dermal junction (EDJ) is affected, and the dermis undergoes major disorders. In addition, the deterioration of the extracellular matrix (ECM) plays an important role in the aging process leading to a gradual decrease in the thickness of the dermis, collagen content and the rate of protein organization. The fibroblast plays a pivotal role in the morphogenesis and remodeling of the dermis. The alterations due to age, lead to changes in the macromolecular network of the dermis. The integrity of the extracellular matrix is partly ensured by the balance created between the contribution of molecules participating in its synthesis and the degradation of these same molecules. The role of the fibroblast is preventive because it is he who has the function of secreting a large number of the proteins involved. The mechanisms of degradation are complex and involve a large number of molecules. Among these, matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) play a major role in the degradation of extracellular matrix and epidermal dermal junction components. This extracellular matrix plays an important role in various biological functions of the skin in addition to providing physical support. The enzymatic balance of MMPs is naturally controlled by the presence of tissue inhibitors called TIMPs. Aging and environmental aggressions such as ultraviolet break this balance in favor of MMPs. Thus, the excessive action of MMPs results in a subsidence of the three-dimensional structure of the extracellular matrix and contributes to the appearance of wrinkles, sagging of the skin and passive dilation of surface micro-capillaries. The matrix metalloproteinases represent a family of enzymes having the following characteristics: they degrade at least one Zn ++ ion and are inhibited by the chelating agents. they are secreted in latent form and require activation to exert their proteolytic activity. they are inhibited by tissue metalloproteinase inhibitors (TIMPs = Tissue Inhibitors of Metalloproteinases). They share primary structure homologies and have several distinct domains. MMPs are endopeptides or proteinases. They are involved in several physiological phenomena (adhesion, migration, cell differentiation, cicatrization) or pathological phenomena (tumor, photo-aging, aging). There are 3 classes of MMPs: - Gelatinases: composed of gelatinase A (MMP-2) and gelatinase B (MMP-9), their substrate is degraded collagen, native collagen type IV, V, VII and X, elastin and fibronectin. Collagenases: they comprise interstitial collagenase (MMP-1) which degrades collagens of type I, III, VII, VIII and gelatin, the neutrophil collagenase (MMP-13) which has as substrate type I collagens and III and collagenase-3 (MMP-8) which acts on collagen II. Stromelysins: exist in 2 forms, stromelysin 1 (MMP-3) and stromelysin 2 (MMP-10) which degrade proteoglycans, fibronectin, laminin, elastin, certain Pro-MMPs and collagens IV. , V, VII and X. In healthy skin, the balance or homeostasis of the fibers that make up the extracellular matrix such as collagen, fibronectin, elastin is based on: fiber synthesis ECM; The action of endogenous collagenases (MMPs) which is necessary to ensure the slow renewal of collagen fibers in the skin as well as the presence of endogenous inhibitors of MMPs (TIMPs) in order to control the degradation activity of these enzymes . However, various conditions such as aging or long-term exposure to ultraviolet light are associated with a decrease in the synthesis of collagen and other extracellular matrix proteins; an increase in MMP activity as well as a retro-regulation of TIMPs. It therefore seems interesting to fight against skin aging, to fight against this increase in the activity of MMPs. The applicant applicants surprisingly demonstrated that a composition comprising an extract of Perichlaena richardii protects skin aging by protecting the extracellular dermal matrix through its action as an inhibitor of the synthesis of metalloproteinases. It is therefore possible to use an extract of Perichlaena richardii as an active inhibiting agent for the synthesis of metalloproteinases, as an active protective agent for the extracellular matrix. Perichlaena richardii is a shrub liana of the family Bignoniaceae living in tropical climate with a long dry season. This plant is endemic to Madagascar, but it is also widespread in Asia (China), Africa (Rwanda) and tropical America (Mexico). In Madagascar it is widely used by the local population, recognized as very effective in the treatment of various diseases, including liver diseases. The decoction of the plant is also used orally for the care of gastric pain. It is known as invigorating and restores the appetite. Finally, it is also known for fortifying the teeth, in local application.

The cosmetic composition which is the subject of the present invention contains an extract of Perichlaena richardii. It is preferably an extract of leaves of Perichlaena richardii. Advantageously, this extract is an aqueous extract and preferably it is stabilized with glycerine. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, it is a 2% liquid in a 70/30 glycerol-water mixture.

Preferably it is an aqueous extract obtained according to a process comprising at least the following stages: drying of the leaves - grinding of the dried leaves - solid / liquid extraction (Ethanol solvent 70 °) - maturation then filtration - concentration in phase aqueous (evaporation of ethanol) - maturation and filtration - adjustment of the concentration (addition of glycerin) - final filtration The Perichlaena richardii extract used in the composition according to the invention is a clear solution of brown color. It has the following analytical characteristics: - dry residue: 15 to 25 g / L -pH: 5.7 to 6.3 - total dihydroxycinammic derivatives: greater than or equal to 15% Preferably the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01 to 10 % Perichlaena richardii extract by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition comprises from 0.01 to 5% of Perichlaena richardii extract by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more formulating agents or additives of known and conventional use in cosmetic and dermatological compositions such as, by way of examples and in a nonlimiting manner, softeners, colorants, film-forming active agents, surfactants, perfumes, preservatives, emulsifiers, oils, glycols, vitamins such as vitamin E, UV filters, etc. Thanks to its knowledge of cosmetics, the person skilled in the art will know which formulating agents to add to the compositions of the invention and in what quantities according to the desired properties. The compositions according to the invention may be in any form known to those skilled in the field of cosmetology and dermatology with no other pharmaceutical restriction than the application on the face and on the body. Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of a gel, a cream, a lotion, an oil, a milk, a spray, etc.

The applicant has demonstrated that the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used to protect the extracellular matrix. The cosmetic composition according to the invention can also be used to inhibit the synthesis of MMPs. Preferentially, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also be used to inhibit the synthesis of MMP-1. Consequently, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used to prevent, delay or fight against aging of the skin and / or the appearance of signs of aging of the skin. The signs of aging of the skin are: wrinkles, fine lines, sagging skin, loss of elasticity of skin fibers, withered skin, thinned skin, and dull and / or lackluster skin. The composition according to the invention can therefore be used to redensify and / or firm and / or tone the skin. Preferentially, the skin of the face, that is to say the skin of the face, neck, décolleté and / or the contour of the eyes.

The following examples concern, on the one hand, the evaluation of the effect of an extract of Perichlaena richardii on the inhibition of the synthesis of MMPs and, on the other hand, the compositions that are the subject of the present invention.

The examples refer to the following figures in which: FIG. 1 represents the experimental scheme for demonstrating the activity of the Perichlaena richardii extract on the inhibition of the synthesis of MMPs. FIG. 2 represents the evaluation of the expression of MMP-1 as a function of the different concentrations of the extract of Perichlaena richardii in the culture medium.

I. EVALUATION OF THE ACTIVITY OF A PERICHLAENA RICHARDII EXTRACT ON THE INHIBITION OF MMPS SYNTHESIS The objective of this study is to determine the ability of Perichlaena richardii to inhibit the synthesis of MMP-1, a matrix metalloproteinase degradation of collagen fibers I and III in particular. The study is carried out on culture of human fibroblasts subjected or not to UVA exposure responsible for the significant increase in the level of MMPs in the extracellular matrix.

A.MATERIEL The study is performed on fibroblasts representing cells with normal characteristics (fusiform or star-shaped appearance, good metabolic activity, good spreading capacity ...).

The cells are distributed in multiwell plates (24 wells) at the rate of 105 cells / well in 500 μl of "modified essential medium" (MEM) culture medium supplemented with L-glutamine. They are held for 24 hours in a CO2 oven at 37 ° C. The extract of Perichlaena richardii is divided into 3 concentrations: 0.001, 0.005 and 0.01% at the rate of 3 wells per dose. These concentrations were found to be non-cytotoxic for cells on the MTT (dimethyl thiazol diphenyl tetrazolium) assay (Mosmann, J Immunol Meth 1983 65: 55-63). The batches are constituted according to the following model and made in triplicate: Lot 1: untreated and unirradiated negative control.

Lot 2: untreated negative control and irradiated UVA 10J / cm2. Lot 3 to 5: treated with an extract of Perichlaena richardii at 0.001, 0.005 and 0.01%. Batch 6-8: treated with Perichlaena richardii extract at 0.001, 0.005 and 0.01% with 10 J / cm2 UVA. B.METHODE The amount of expressed MMP-1 metalloproteinases is determined using an Enzyme Linked Immuno SorbentAssay (ELISA) test. This method makes it possible to detect certain (non-radioactive) molecules at very low doses. The MMP-1 assay is performed by means of monoclonal antibodies specifically recognizing each enzyme. The amount of metalloproteinases is determined by a secondary antibody coupled with peroxidase (R & D Systems). The samples are read spectrophotometer (450 nm) and compared to a standard range of MMP-1. The amount of total protein is determined by combining the recovered tissue content with a solution of bicinchoninic acid (BCA) and a solution of copper sulfate (Interchim). The Cu ++ ions of this mixture are reduced to Cu + ions in the presence of proteins. These ions chelate with 2 molecules of BCA.

The samples are read spectrophotometrically (550 nm) and compared to a standard range of bovine serum albumin (BSA) to determine the concentration of total protein in the solution.

The final results obtained are expressed as a percentage of variation of the level of MMPs (amount of MMPs relative to the amount of total proteins) relative to the control according to the formula: MMP content - MMP rate (treated) (control) Inhibition of the rate - MMPs / control (%) MMP levels (control) C.RESULTS See Figure 2 Under the experimental conditions selected, the extract of Perichlaena richardii tested at the various concentrations selected has a very satisfactory metalloproteinase MMP-1 inhibitory activity. II.EXAMPLES OF FORMULATIONS ANTI-AGE EMULSION DAY CARBOMER 0.30 GLYCERIN 2.00 DIMETHICONE 3.00 30 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 8.00 CETEARYL ALCOHOL & CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 3.50 TOCOPHEROL 0.06- GLYCERYL STEARATE & PEG-100 STEARATE 2, 50 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 4.00 35 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.08 TAPIOCA STARCH 1.50 BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-4 1.00 PERICHLAENA RICHARDII 2.00 PRESERVATIVES QS

DISODIUM EDTA 0.10 PERFUME Q.S. DEMINERALIZED WATER QSP 100 ANTI-AGE GELIFYING LOTION XANTHAN GUM 0.15 CARBOMER 0.15 TAPIOCA STARCH 1.50 ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN 0.20 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 3.00 BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-1 10.00 LUBRAJEL 10.00 TROMETHAMINE 0.20 PERICHLAENA RICHARDII 1 , 00 SOLUBILISANT LRI 0,40 PRESERVATIVES QS PERFUME Q.S.

DEMINERALIZED WATER QSP 100 GEL -CREME ANTI-AGING CETEARYL ETHYLHEXANOATE 2.50 STEARYL HEPTANOATE 1.50 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 3.00 PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE 2.00 DIMETHICONE 1.50 TOCOPHEROL 0.02 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.25 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 3.00 C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE 2.50 HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.10 GLYCERIN 5.00 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 2.00 ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN 0.20 DISODIUM EDTA 0.05 TROMETHAMINE 0.30 PERICHLAENA RICHARDII 3.00 PRESERVATIVES QS PERFUME QS DEMINERALIZED WATER QSP 100 CREE ANTI-AGE DAY SPF 20 ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN 0.20 DISODIUM EDTA 0.10 XANTHAN GUM 0.20 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 3.00 ACACIA SENEGAL GUM 0.01 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 2.00 BUTYLOCTYL SALICYLATE 5.00 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 0, 50 MICA 0.10 POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE 0.50 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 3.00 OCTOCRYLENE 2.70 HOMOSALATE 10.00 CETEARYL ALCOHOL & CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 3.50 C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE 8.00 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.20 TAPIOCA STARCH 2.00 12 2.00 3.00 QS Q.S. Q.S.P 100 10 PERICHLAENA RICHARDII 0.50 1.20 3.00 2.00 5.00 4.00 1.00 15 ALCOHOL 10.00 2.50 2.00 2.00 Q.S. Q.S. Qs 20 CONSERVATIVES 25 PERFUME WATER DEMINERALIZED 100 NIGHT CREAM ANTI-AGING Sodium Polyacrylate Sepinov EMT 10 GLYCERIN PENTYLENE DICAPRYLYL GLYCOL CARBONATE pentaerythrityl TETRAETHYLHEXANOATE CETEARYL ALCOHOL & CETEARYL GLUCOSIDES CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDES GLYCERYL Stearate & PEG-100 Stearate Silica PERICHLAENA richardii CONSERVATIVES PERFUME WATER DEMINERALIZED

Claims (13)

CLAIMS1) Cosmetic composition comprising an extract of Perichlaena richardii. 2) Composition according to claim 1, wherein the extract of Perichlaena richardii is an extract of leaves. 3) Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the extract of Perichlaena richardii is an aqueous extract. 4) Composition according to claim 3, wherein the extract of Perichlaena richardii is stabilized with glycerine. 5) A composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the Perichlaena richardii extract is a 2% liquid in a 70/30 glycerol-water mixture. 6) Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising from 0.01 to 10% of Perichlaena richardii extract by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight. Perichlaena richardii extract by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition. 30 7) Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims further comprising one or more formulating agents or additives such as softeners, dyes, film-forming agents, de-ionizing agents, perfumes, preservatives, emulsifiers, oils , glycols, UV filters, and vitamins. 8) Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims or an extract of Perichlaena richardii to protect the extracellular matrix. 9) Cosmetic use according to claim 8 for inhibiting the synthesis of metalloproteinases. 10) Cosmetic use according to claim 9 for inhibiting the synthesis of metalloproteinase 1. 11) Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7 or of an extract of Perichlaena richardii for delaying or combating aging of the skin and / or the appearance of the signs of aging of the skin . 12) Use according to claim 11, wherein the signs of aging of the skin are selected from wrinkles, fine lines, sagging skin, loss of elasticity of skin fibers, withered skin, thinned skin, and skin dull and / or without brilliance. 13) Cosmetic use according to claim 11 or claim 12 for redensifying and / or firming and / or toning the skin.