FR2967912A1 - MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATIN FIBERS - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a makeup cosmetic composition comprising a continuous oily phase, and comprising: at least one lipophilic film-forming polymer, at least one apolar wax, at least one polar wax, and at least one surfactant having at least one ° C an HLB balance in the sense of GRIFFIN less than or equal to 6. The present invention also relates to a process for coating keratinous fibers with said cosmetic composition.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for the makeup of keratin fibers that can withstand water and be easily removed from the skin. More particularly, the compositions according to the invention may constitute a makeup product for eyelashes, eyebrows and hair, and more particularly an eyelash makeup product. It may especially be a make-up composition, a transparent or colored composition to be applied to or under a make-up, also called "top-coat" or "base-coat", or else a composition eyelash treatment. The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a product for eyelashes or mascara, an eyebrow product, or a hair makeup product. More particularly, the invention relates to a mascara. In practice, there are essentially two types of mascara formulation, namely, on the one hand, aqueous continuous phase mascaras, called "emulsion mascaras", in the form of an emulsion of waxes in water and, on the other hand, solvent-borne or oil-based, anhydrous or low-water-content mascaras and / or water-soluble solvents, known as "waterproof mascaras", formulated in dispersion form, in non-aqueous solvents, of at least one Oily structuring agent which may be a wax, a polymer, in particular a semi-crystalline polymer or a lipophilic gelling agent The present invention relates to "waterproof" type compositions or mascaras as defined above. These so-called "waterproof" mascaras are known to give rise to a difficult make-up removal, even impossible with certain make-up removers, in particular make-up removers which are mainly aqueous or water-soluble, especially aqueous solutions. specific make-up removers based on oils or organic solvents, but these make-up removers may be irritating to the eye, in particular causing tingling or leaving a veil on the eye, or else they may leave on the skin around the eye (eyelids) an uncomfortable fatty residual film, there is therefore a need for makeup cosmetic compositions capable of both having good water resistance and at the same time a good make-up removing ability, including with PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf FR 2 785 801, EP 1 152 022, FR 2 774 996, WO 95/35089 and WO 99/26445 describe compositions paississantes, called "latex thickener" or "thickening agent" or "inverse latex". The documents FR 2 785 801 and FR 2 774 996 in particular disclose compositions comprising an aqueous phase, an oily phase, an O / W emulsifier (oil in water) and an emulsifying agent of W / O type (water in oil ) and an anionic polyelectrolyte, connected or crosslinked, based on a monomer having a strong acid function. WO 99/52499 mainly describes lipsticks comprising sodium polyacrylate for the purpose of producing a volumizing effect. It has now been discovered that it is possible to obtain cosmetic compositions for the makeup of keratinous fibers capable of reconciling an improved makeup removal regardless of the type of makeup remover and an excellent resistance to water and sebum.

According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a makeup cosmetic composition comprising a continuous oily phase, and comprising: at least one lipophilic film-forming polymer, at least one apolar wax, at least one polar wax, and at least one surfactant having at 25 ° C a balance HLB in the Griffin sense less than or equal to 6. As is apparent from the examples below, the compositions according to the invention show such technical advantages.

According to a second aspect, the present invention also relates to a method of coating the eyelashes with a makeup composition, as defined above, wherein said process comprises a step of applying said composition to the keratinous fibers, and in particular the eyelashes.

Continuous oily phase By "oily continuous phase cosmetic composition" is meant a system capable of being diluted or dispersed in contact with said solvent or oil medium. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf The composition according to the invention thus comprises an oily medium, constituting an oily phase, which forms the continuous phase of the composition. The oily phase of the composition according to the invention is thus a continuous oily phase.

By composition with a continuous oily phase, it is meant that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25 ° C., of less than 23 μS / cm (microSiemens / cm), the conductivity being measured for example using an MPC227 conductivity meter of Mettler Toledo and a cell conductivity measurement In1ab730. The measuring cell is immersed in the composition, so as to eliminate air bubbles that may form between the 2 electrodes of the cell. The reading of the conductivity is made as soon as the value of the conductimeter is stabilized. An average is performed on at least 3 successive measurements.

Preferably, the oily phase of the composition according to the invention is present in an amount of at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of at least 40% by weight.

Oil or organic solvent The compositions according to the present application thus contain one or more organic oil (s) or solvent (s). By "oil" is meant a liquid fatty substance at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil and / or at least one non-volatile oil, and their mixtures.

Volatile oil The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil. By "volatile oil" is meant an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg / cm 2 / min, inclusive. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf To measure this evaporation rate is introduced into a crystallizer, diameter 7 cm, placed on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3m3 temperature-regulated, at a temperature of 25 ° C, and in hygrometry, at a relative humidity of 50%, 15g of oil or oil mixture to be tested. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPSTMOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions per minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing said oil or mixture , the blades being directed towards the crystallizer and at a distance of 20cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of evaporated oil per unit area (cm) and per unit time (minute).

This volatile oil can be hydrocarbon-based. The volatile hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms.

The composition according to the invention may contain one or more branched alkane (s) volatile (s). By "one or more branched alkane (s) volatile (s)" is meant indifferently "one or more volatile branched alkane (s) oil (s)". As the hydrocarbon-based volatile oil having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made in particular of branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes such as iso-alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) at C 8 -C 16, isododecane, isodecane and the like. isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the hydrocarbonaceous volatile oil having 8 to 16 carbon atoms is chosen from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, and is especially isododecane. The composition according to the invention may contain one or more volatile linear alkane (s). By "one or more volatile linear alkane (s)" is meant indifferently "one or more volatile linear alkane (s) oil (s)". A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at ambient temperature (about 25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf "Volatile linear alkane" that is suitable for the invention means a linear, cosmetic alkane capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour at ambient temperature (25 ° C. ) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, that is to say 101 325 Pa), liquid at room temperature, including an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg / cm 2 / min, at room temperature ( 25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). Linear alkanes, preferably of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.

By way of example of a linear alkane which is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (distinct alkane mixtures and differing from less a carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.

By way of example of a linear alkane suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n -undecane (C 11) and n-tridecane (C13) described in Example 1 of the application WO2008 / 155059 of the Cognis Company. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures. The linear alkane may be used alone or as a mixture of at least two different alkanes and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1, and in particular a mixture of at least two linear alkanes containing from 10 to 14 carbon atoms. carbon atoms differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of volatile linear C11 / C13 alkanes or a mixture of linear C12 / C14 alkanes, in particular a n-butyl mixture. undecane / n-tridecane (such a mixture can be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155059).

Alternatively or additionally, the composition produced may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil or solvent compatible with a cosmetic use. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf "Silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups. According to one embodiment, said composition comprises less than 10% by weight of non-volatile silicone oil (s), relative to the total weight of the composition, better still less than 5% by weight, or even is free from silicone oil. As silicone volatile oil, mention may be made of cyclic polysiloxanes, linear polysiloxanes and mixtures thereof. Volatile linear polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane. Cyclic volatile polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

Alternatively or additionally, the composition produced may comprise at least one volatile fluorinated oil. By fluorinated oil is meant an oil containing at least one fluorine atom. As fluorinated volatile oil, there may be mentioned nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

The volatile oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 70% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight. % in weight. In particular, the volatile oil may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.05 to 30%, preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition may be free of volatile oil.

Non-volatile oil The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile oil. By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm / min. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf Said at least one nonvolatile oil suitable for the present invention may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils. The non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that are suitable for the present invention may in particular be chosen from: hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths various C4 to C28, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Mig1yo1810C), 812® and 818® by the company Sasol; synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters such as oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R1 + R2 is> 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, laurate, hexyl, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene dioctanoate glycol; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters - branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, alcohol PR91380 / KLP / PLC / isostearyl alcohol, alcohol oleic acid, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof.

The nonvolatile silicone oils that are suitable for the present invention may in particular be chosen from: the non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition in accordance with the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl groups or alkoxy, pendant and / or silicone chain end, groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

The oil content or nonvolatile organic solvent in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.01 to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 25% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 20% by weight. by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In addition to this continuous oily phase, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one apolar wax, at least one polar wax, and at least one lipophilic film-forming polymer.

Waxes The composition according to the invention comprises at least one apolar wax and at least one polar wax. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" is intended to mean a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30 ° C. go up to 120 ° C. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf Preferably, the measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C. to 100 ° C., the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The wax may especially have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa, and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compression force measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm. moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

The waxes may be hydrocarbon-based or fluorinated and may be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin. In particular, the waxes have a melting point greater than 25 ° C. and better still greater than 45 ° C.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a wax content of between 1 and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably. between 3 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 5 to 20% and more preferably from 7 to 15% by weight.

Apolar waxes: The composition according to the invention comprises at least one apolar wax. By "apolar wax", within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C as defined below, Sa is equal to 0 (J / cmY PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf The apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.

In particular, apolar wax means a wax which consists solely of apolar wax and not a mixture which also includes other types of waxes which are not apolar waxes. Illustrative of apolar waxes suitable for the invention include hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof. As polyethylene wax, there may be mentioned PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE and PERFORMALENE 400 POLYETHYLENE marketed by New Phase Technologies. As ozokerite mention may be made of OZOKERITE WAX SP 1020 P. As microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of MULTIWAX W 445® marketed by SONNEBORN and MICROWAX HW and BASE WAX 30540® marketed by PARAMELT. Suitable microwaxes which can be used in the compositions according to the invention as apolar wax include, in particular, polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an apolar wax content, and especially an apolar hydrocarbon wax, ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight of wax relative to the total weight of the composition and better still, from 2 to at 12% by weight, in particular from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Polar wax According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polar wax.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar wax" is intended to mean a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C. Sa is other than 0 (J / cm 3). In particular, by wax " polar "means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one strongly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen atom, nitrogen atom, silicon or phosphorus.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. HANSEN: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: - SD characterizes the dispersion forces of LONDON resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; bp characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles and the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; bh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc. type), Sa is determined by the equation: Sa = (8p2 + 8hz) ~ 'A 20 The parameters bp, bh, SD and Sa are expressed in (J / cm3) vt

The polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon, fluorinated or silicone. By "silicone wax" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

By "hydrocarbon wax" is meant a wax formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf According to a first preferred embodiment, the polar wax is a hydrocarbon wax. As hydrocarbon polar wax, a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is particularly preferred.

By "ester wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

It is particularly possible to use as ester wax such as those chosen from:

i) waxes of formula RICOOR2 in which R1 and Rz represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and whose point temperature melting ranges from 25 to 120 ° C. In particular, a C 20 -C 40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture or a C 10 -C 40 alkyl stearate, can be used as ester wax. Such waxes are sold, for example, under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®", "Kester Wax K 80 P®", or "Kester KSH WAX" by the company Koster Keunen. It is also possible to use a montanate (octacosanoate) of glycol and butylene glycol, such as the wax LICOWAX KPS FLAKES (INCI name: montanate glycol) marketed by Clariant. ii) di- (trimethylol-1,1,1-propane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Hetenere,

iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of the general formula R3 - (- 000-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and Rs are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group ( alkyl comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a C4-C30 aliphatic group (linear or branched alkyl group comprising 4 PR91380 / KLP / PLC / CF 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not contain 1 or more unsaturations, and preferably linear and unsaturated,

iv) We may also mention the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having C8-C32 linear or branched fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the SOPHIM company. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190 and the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol such as that sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57" or else; v) beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylene lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax , Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax; sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax.

According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

As alcohol wax, there may be mentioned, for example, the Performacol 550-L Alcohol wax from New Phase Technologie, stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol.

According to a second embodiment, the polar wax may be silicone-like silicone beeswax, or an alkyl dimethicone such as C30-45 alkyl dimethicone sold under the reference SF1642 by Momentive Performance Materials. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a content of polar wax, and in particular of polar hydrocarbon wax, ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight of wax relative to the total weight of the composition and better, from 2 to 18% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more specifically from 8 to 14% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the weight ratio of polar waxes to apolar wax (es) on polar wax (s) is greater than or equal to 0.0 1, better still greater than or equal to 0.1, and preferably is between 0.05 and 10. The total wax content is preferably, inclusive, between 5% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably between 8 and 25% by weight.

Lipophilic Filmo-2 Polymer The composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic film-forming polymer. The lipophilic film-forming polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a solids content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight. and more preferably from 4% to 10% by weight. In the present invention, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous and adherent film on the keratinous fibers, and preferably a cohesive film, and more preferably a film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said film can be isolable and manipulable in isolation, for example when said film is made by casting on a non-stick surface such as a teflon or silicone surface. Among the film-forming polymers that may be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf10 Radical film-forming polymers "Radical film-forming polymer" means a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, especially ethylenic monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

The radical-type film-forming polymers may in particular be polymers, or copolymers, vinylic polymers, in particular acrylic polymers. The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acidic group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acidic monomers.

As the acid-group-bearing monomer, α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid may be used. It is preferable to use (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid. The acidic monomer esters are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 1 -C 30 alkyl, preferably C1-C20, (meth) acrylates of aryl, in particular of C6-C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular of C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl. Among the alkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate. Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate. Particularly preferred (meth) acrylic acid esters are alkyl (meth) acrylates. According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters may be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, i.e. some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf Amides of acid monomers include, for example, (meth) acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular of C2-C12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, N-t-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.

The vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate. Styrene monomers include styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.

Film-forming polycondensates Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas. The polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, poly-urethanespolyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.

The polyesters can be obtained, in known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, especially diols. The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids are: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-acid. dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These monomers PR91380 / KLP / PLC / dicarboxylic acid can be used alone or in combination with at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are preferably chosen. The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols.

A diol chosen from among: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol is preferably used. As other polyols, it is possible to use glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylolpropane. The polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As the diamine, it is possible to use ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta-or para-phenylenediamine. As aminoalcohol, monoethanolamine can be used.

According to an alternative embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the lipophilic film-forming polymer may be a polymer solubilized in a liquid fatty phase comprising oils such as those described above (it is said that the film-forming polymer is a liposoluble polymer). Preferably, the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, optionally mixed with a non-volatile oil, the oils may be chosen from the oils mentioned above.

As an example of a fat-soluble polymer, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly connected to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl ester group) and from at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (the alkyl group of which contains 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded to the carbonyl ester group). These copolymers may be crosslinked using crosslinking agents which may be of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and octadecanedioate. divinyl. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf Examples of these copolymers include copolymers: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecylvinylether, vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, 2,2-dimethylvinyl octanoate vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethyl-2-allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0, 2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate , cross-linked with 0.2% diviny benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene and allyl propionate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one liposoluble polymer. In particular, said liposoluble polymer is chosen from vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly connected to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl ester group) and an allyl or methallyl ester (having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded to the carbonyl ester group). Preferably, said liposoluble polymer is chosen from vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymers.

Liposoluble film-forming polymers that may also be mentioned include liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

Such liposoluble copolymers may be chosen from copolymers of vinyl polycrystearate, vinyl polystearate crosslinked with divinylbenzene, diallyl ether or diallyl phthalate, and stearyl poly (meth) acrylate copolymers, PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf vinyl polyol, lauryl poly (meth) acrylate, these poly (meth) acrylates can be crosslinked using dimethacrylate ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol. The liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2232303; they can have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.

According to another embodiment, at least one copolymer resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular the copolymers of polyvinyl acetate, may be used as liposoluble polymer.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liposoluble polymer chosen from vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymers, vinyl polyvinylate copolymers and their mixtures. Liposoluble film-forming polymers that can be used in the invention also include polyalkylenes and especially copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 to C8 alkyl radical. such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2 to C40 and better still of C3 to C20 alkene. By way of example of a copolymer of VP which may be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) butylated, VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triaceton, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate. Mention may also be made of silicone resins, generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers. The nomenclature of silicone resins is known as "MDTQ", the resin being described in terms of the different monomeric siloxane units it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit. As examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those which are commercially available: PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf - by Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK; - by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L. As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of timethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J" by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749", "DC 593" by the company Dow Corning.

Mention may also be made of silicone resin copolymers such as those mentioned above with polydimethylsiloxanes, such as the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers marketed by Dow Corning under the reference BIOPSA and described in document US Pat. No. 5,162,410. silicone copolymers derived from the reaction of a silicone resin, such as those described above, and a diorganosiloxane as described in WO 2004/073626. According to one embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer is a film-forming linear ethylenic block polymer, which preferably comprises at least a first block and at least a second block having different glass transition temperatures (Tg), said first and second sequences being interconnected by an intermediate sequence comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block. Advantageously, the first and second sequences and the block polymer are incompatible with each other. Such polymers are described, for example, in EP 1 411 069 or WO 04/028488.

The lipophilic film-forming polymer may also be present in the composition in the form of particles dispersed in a non-aqueous phase. Examples of non-aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer are acrylic dispersions in isododecane, such as Mexomere PAP® from Chimex, dispersions of particles of a grafted ethylenic polymer, preferably acrylic, in a fatty phase. liquid, the ethylenic polymer being advantageously PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf dispersed in the absence of additional stabilizer at the surface of the particles as described in particular in WO 04/055081.

Lipophilic Gelling Agents The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent. This gelling agent may be organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular. As inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, there may be mentioned optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C10-C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl-dimethyl ammonium chloride such that for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V® by the company ELEMENTIS. It is also possible to mention fumed silica optionally treated hydrophobic surface whose particle size is less than 1 micron. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are referred to as "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (2nd edition, 1995). They are, for example, sold under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by the company Cabot, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane. or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (2nd edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by CABOT.

The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm. Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example,

PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C0 and Trefil E- 506C0 by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204 ® and JK 113® by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by Dow Chemical; polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between (a) at least one acid selected from dicarboxylic acids comprising at least 32 carbon atoms such as dimeric fatty acids and (13) an alkylenediamine and in particular ethylene diamine, wherein the polyamide polymer comprises at least one terminal carboxylic acid group esterified or amidated with at least one monohydric alcohol or a monoamine comprising from 12 to 30 linear and saturated carbon atoms, and in particular ethylene diamine / dilinoleate copolymers stearyl such as that marketed under the name Uniclear 100 VG® by ARIZONA CHEMICAL; galactomannans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C1-C6 alkyl chains, and in particular C1 groups; C3 and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylenepropylene) type, such as those sold under the name Kratori by the company Shell Chemical Co., or else the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by the company PENRECO under the name Versagel® such as, for example, the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960). Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL. ® by the company CHIBA FLOUR. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf Surfactants The composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant having, at 25 ° C., a HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) balance in the Griffin sense of less than or equal to 6. The GRIFFIN HLB value is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

Reference can be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", Vol. 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of properties and functions of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference.

Preferably, said at least one surfactant is selected from: - fatty acid esters of glucose such as methylglucose dioleate; fatty acid esters of glycerine such as glycerol isostearate, glycerol oleate and glycerol ricinoleate, and preferentially glycerine triesters such as tristearin (tristearin) tristearate, such as the stearate mixture acetylated glycol and glyceryl tristearate, sold under the name Unitwix by United Guardian; fatty acid and sorbitol esters such as sorbitan tristearate and sorbitan di- or tri-oleate; silicone emulsifiers, such as polyalkyl polyether siloxanes bearing polyoxyalkylene groups grafted onto the main silicone chain, of which polyalkylpolyethersiloxanes bearing polyoxyalkylene groups grafted onto the main silicone chain will preferably be used; and their mixtures.

Among the silicone emulsifiers, use will be made more particularly of those selected from the group formed by the polydiorganosiloxanes of the following formulas (I) and (II), these compounds being themselves capable of being dispersed in a volatile dimethicone, PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf R CH3 - Si - CH3 (1) CH3 CH3 Si - CH3 ab CH3 Si - CH3 CH3 CH3

Si -R 2 I b CH 3 a in which: RI denotes a linear or branched C12-C20 and preferably C18-C18 alkyl group Rz denotes the group: - C'Hzri - (- OCzH4-) X - (- OC3H6-) y -O R3, R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 12 carbon atoms, a denotes an integer ranging from 0 to about 500, b is an integer ranging from 0 to about 500 c is an integer from 1 to about 500, n is an integer from 2 to 12, x and y are an integer from 0 to about 50 respectively, the sum x + y being greater than or equal to the value 1.

Among the preferred emulsifying polyorganosiloxanes, mention may be made of those of formula (I) in which, a is an integer ranging from 2 to 450, b is equal to 0, c is an integer ranging from 2 to 40, n is a number integer ranging from 2 to 5, x is an integer from 1 to 30, y is an integer from 0 to 30, with x y. Among these silicone emulsifiers, it is more particularly possible to use the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol (CTFA name) such as the product sold by Dow Corning under the trade name Silicone DC 3225 C or the product sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name of ABIL EM 97.

PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf Among the preferred emulsifying polyorganosiloxanes, mention may be made of those of formula (I) in which a is equal to 0 and b is different from 0 such that, more particularly, laurylmethicone copolyol (CTFA nomenclature - 7th edition - 1997 ) sold by Dow Corning under the trade name Q2-5200 Formulation Aid or cetyl dimethicone copolyol which is for example sold under the names "ABIL WE09®" and "ABIL EM90®" by the company Goldschmidt.

The surfactant may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, ranging from 0.1% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. composition, or even 0.2% to 9% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 7% by weight.

Aqueous Phase The composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase comprising water and / or at least one water-soluble solvent. This aqueous phase is continuous. By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure). The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can moreover be volatile. Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 atoms. carbon such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes. The aqueous phase (water and optionally the solvent miscible with water) may be present in a content less than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, this aqueous phase may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 10% by weight, and preferably ranging from from 3% to 8% by weight. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf This aqueous phase may optionally comprise at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer and / or at least one hydrophilic thickener.

Dyestuffs The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one dyestuff such as pulverulent materials, fat-soluble dyes and water-soluble dyes. The pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from pigments and nacres.

The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Among the inorganic pigments, titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, oxides of zirconium, zinc or cerium, as well as oxides of iron or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The nacres may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan Red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, (3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, D & C Orange 5 , the yellow quinoline, the annatto.

These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Charts The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler. The fillers may be selected from those well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers can be mineral or organic, lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders, such as the nylon sold under the name Orgasol® by Atochem, poly- (3-alanine and polyethylene), and tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders. such as Teflon®, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as those sold under the name Expancel® by Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders such as those sold under the name Polytrap® by the company Dow Corning, polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microspheres (Toshiba's Tospearls®, for example), precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and magnesium hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (MAPRECOS Silica Beads), microcapsules of glass or ceramics metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. It is also possible to use a compound capable of swelling with heat and in particular thermally expandable particles such as unexpanded microspheres of copolymer of vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate or copolymer of acrylonitrile homopolymer, for example those sold respectively under the references Expancel® 820 DU 40 and Expancel®007WU by the company AKZO NOBEL. The fillers can represent from 0.1 to 15%, in particular from 0.2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fibers The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one fiber which makes it possible to improve the lengthening effect. By "fiber" it is necessary to understand an object of length L and of diameter D such that L is much greater than D, D being the diameter of the circle in which the section of the fiber is inscribed. In particular, the L / D ratio (or form factor) is chosen in the range from 3.5 to 2500, in particular from 5 to 500, and more particularly from 5 to 150. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf fibers that can be used in the composition of the invention may be fibers of synthetic or natural, mineral or organic origin. They can be short or long, unitary or organized, for example braided, hollow or full. Their shape can be any and in particular of circular or polygonal section (square, hexagonal or octagonal) depending on the specific application envisaged. In particular, their ends are blunt and / or polished to avoid injury. In particular, the fibers have a length ranging from 1 μm to 10 mm, in particular from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and more particularly from 0.3 mm to 3.5 mm. Their section may be in a circle with a diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 μm, in particular ranging from 100 nm to 100 μm and more particularly from 1 μm to 50 μm. The weight or titer of the fibers is often given in denier or decitex and represents the weight in gram for 9 km of yarn. The fibers according to the invention may in particular have a title chosen in the range from 0.15 to 30 denier and in particular from 0.18 to 18 denier. The fibers that can be used in the composition of the invention may be chosen from rigid or non-rigid fibers, they may be of synthetic or natural origin, mineral or organic. Furthermore, the fibers may or may not be treated on the surface, coated or uncoated, colored or unstained. As fibers that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of non-rigid fibers such as polyamide (Nylon®) fibers or rigid fibers such as polyimide-amide fibers, such as those sold under the name KERMEL® KERMEL TECH® by RHODIA or poly- (p-phenyleneterephthalamide) (or aramid) sold especially under the name Kevlar® by DuPont de Nemours.

The fibers may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more particularly from 0.3% to 3% by weight.

Cosmetic active ingredients The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active agent. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf As cosmetic active agents that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made in particular of antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, emollients, thickeners, coalescing agents, plasticizers, moisturizers, vitamins and especially solar filters, and mixtures thereof. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their amount so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is not rinsed. Advantageously, the composition is a makeup composition and in particular a mascara.

The following examples are illustrative of the present invention and can not limit the scope thereof.

ASSEMBLY The keratin fiber coating assembly according to the invention may comprise an applicator adapted to apply said composition and, if appropriate, a packaging device adapted to receive said composition.

Applicator The applicator comprises means for smoothing and / or separating the keratin fibers, such as eyelashes or eyebrows, in particular in the form of teeth, bristles or other reliefs. The applicator is arranged to apply the composition to the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and may comprise for example a brush or a comb. The applicator can still be used for makeup finishing, on a region of eyelashes or eyebrows made up or loaded with the composition. The brush may comprise a twisted core and bristles caught between the turns of the core, or may be performed otherwise. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf The comb is for example made in one piece by molding plastic material. The application element can be magnetic. In some exemplary embodiments, the applicator element is mounted at the end of a rod, which may be flexible, which may contribute to improving comfort at the application.

Conditioning Device The packaging device comprises a container for accommodating the keratin fiber coating composition. This composition can then be taken from the container by immersing the applicator therein. This applicator may be integral with a closure element of the container. This closure element may form a gripping member of the applicator. This gripping member may form a cap to removably mount on said container by any suitable means such as screwing, latching, fitting or other. Such a container can thus reversibly accommodate said applicator. This container may optionally be equipped with a wiper adapted to rid a surplus of product taken by the applicator.

A process for applying the composition according to the invention to the eyelashes or the eyebrows may also comprise the following steps: forming a deposit of the cosmetic composition on the eyelashes or the eyebrows, leaving the deposit on the eyelashes or the eyebrows eyebrows, the deposit can dry.

It should be noted that according to another embodiment the applicator can form a product container. In such a case a container may for example be provided in the gripping member and an internal channel may internally connect the gripping member to the relief elements application.

Finally, it should be noted that the packaging and application assembly may be in the form of a kit, the applicator and the packaging device being able to be housed separately under one and the same packaging article. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf EXAMPLES The following examples are presented by way of illustration and not limitation of the invention. 1 / Compositions and preparation Raw material Example Composition A Composition Composition Composition Comparative BCD Rice bran wax 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.7 2.14 Carnauba wax 5.7 5.7 5.7 5.7 4.52 Paraffin 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 6 Beeswax 8.2 8.2 8.2 8.2 6.14 ALLYL 6.7 6.7 6.7 6.7 6 , 7 STEARATENA COPOLYMER POLWINYL 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 LAURATE Isododecane (qsp) 49.57 47.57 47.57 47.57 47.57 Black Iron Oxide 6.4 6.4 6.4 6.4 6.4 Talc 1 1 1 1 1 Bentone 6 6 6 6 6 Propylene 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 Carbonate Demineralized water 6,13 6,13 6,13 6 , 13 6,13 Active Ingredient (s) 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 POLYGLYCE RYL-4 2 2 ISOSTEARATE (and) CETYL PEG / PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE (and) HEXYLLAURATE BIS-PEG The composition named "Comparative Example" serves as a reference for comparing compositions A, B and C which comply with US Pat. No. 5,322,432. the invention.

Compositions A, B, C and D all have, unlike the composition of the comparative example, a surfactant. These surfactants each have, at 25 ° C., a HLB balance in the Griffin sense of less than or equal to 6. These formulas were prepared as follows: Comparative Example: In a main beaker, melt the fatty phase (waxes and lipophilic polymers) to 80-90 ° C in a water bath. - When the fatty phase is melted, add iron oxide and talc. Disperse with a spatula and heat again in a bain-marie at 80-90 ° C. In a secondary beaker, bring to room temperature isododecane and bentone. Disperse under deflocculator. Add the propylene carbonate until a smooth and homogeneous gel is obtained. - Add the isododecane gel in the molten fatty phase. Homogenize quickly with a spatula and crush the whole 3 times to the three-cylinder. - Add demineralized water and then the active ingredient (s) at room temperature. Leave to disperse under deflocculator until a smooth and homogeneous product is obtained.

Compositions A, B and D: The preparation protocol for these compositions is identical to that of the comparative example, with the addition, however, under deflocculating agent, of the surfactant at the end of manufacture and at room temperature.

Composition C: The preparation protocol for this composition differs from that of the comparative example by introducing the surfactant from the first manufacturing stage into the fatty phase at 80 ° -90 ° C. in a water bath. The rest of the preparation protocol remains identical to that of the comparative example. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf 2 / Tests and results The following tests were then carried out for the evaluation of the make-up removal facility, the resistance to water and sebum, each with a preliminary step of producing the same. 'a test tube and makeup of the latter.

Test tube and make-up False eyelash test pieces were made of black straight Caucasian hair with 19 mm long bangs. These fringes were mounted between two 30 mm by 30 mm plates.

The hair was made up with the composition tested by making three times ten passages spaced two minutes apart with a mascara brush. It was allowed to dry for one hour at room temperature (25 ° C).

Description of the ease of testing test 2mL of cleansing lotion (two-phase make-up removal lotion type BIFACIL) was applied to a make-up removal cotton. The specimen was pinched in this cotton for ten seconds and then gently pulled said cotton to remove make-up of said specimen. We changed cotton, again applied cleansing lotion and removing the said test piece as many times as necessary to obtain a total make-up removal of the test tube. The results are expressed in number of significant cottons which effectively made it possible to effectively remove said test piece. The accuracy of the test is given to plus or minus 1 cotton.

Description of the water resistance test The specimen was run under running water at 25 ° C. for one minute (water fountain) and then the test piece was rubbed twice on a blotter with the pendulum. The specimen was then immersed in water for one hour and rubbed ten times on a blotter with the pendulum. The occurrence of film degradation (swelling, irregularity, setback, etc.) was visually observed. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf Finally, the specimen was pinched in a cotton pad for ten seconds and then the cotton was pulled to remove the said test specimen. We then noted the effectiveness of make-up removal by evaluating the amount of mascara on cotton.

Description of the sebum resistance test The specimen was immersed in vegetable squalene for one hour and rubbed ten times on a blotter with the pendulum. The occurrence of film degradation (swelling, irregularity, setback, etc.) was visually observed. Finally, the specimen was pinched in a cotton pad for ten seconds and then the cotton was pulled to remove the said specimen. We then noted the effectiveness of make-up removal by evaluating the amount of mascara on cotton. next: The rating scale for water and sebum resistance tests is 0: no traces 1: imperceptible traces 2: few light gray traces 3: some light gray traces 4: slight gray traces 5 : sustained gray traces 6: very sustained gray traces 7: some sustained black marks 8: sustained black marks 9: very sustained black marks Test concerned Example Composition Composition Composition Composition Comparative ABCD Number of cottons 19 12 15 15 9 The compositions of the compositions A, B, C and D have a significantly improved ease of makeup removal relative to the so-called comparative composition without surfactant having at 25 ° C. an HLB balance at 25 ° C. meaning of GRIFFIN less than or equal to PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf 6, while maintaining for all three excellent resistance to water and excellent resistance to sebum. It can also be observed that the increase in the content of apolar wax and the corresponding decrease in the content of polar waxes in composition D relative to compositions A, B and C makes it possible to further improve the makeup removal of a composition. In this case, an apolar wax ratio on polar waxes of approximately 0.47 is advantageous.

It is understood that in the context of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed as the dry weight of the compound in question.

Throughout the application, the expression "includes one" or "includes one" must be understood to mean "containing at least one" or "comprising at least one", unless the contrary is specified.

PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf

Claims (16)

1. Cosmetic make-up composition comprising a continuous oily phase, and comprising: at least one lipophilic film-forming polymer, at least one apolar wax, at least one polar wax, and at least one surfactant having at 25 ° C. an HLB balance in the sense of GRIFFIN less than or equal to 6. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein said continuous oily phase has an amount of organic solvent greater than or equal to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said lipophilic polymer is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 4% to 10% by weight. 4. Composition according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein said apolar wax is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight of wax relative to the total weight of the composition and better still, from 2 to 12% by weight, in particular from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more specifically from 5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said apolar wax is selected from hydrocarbon waxes. 6. A composition according to the preceding claim, wherein said apolar hydrocarbon waxes are selected from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf 30 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said polar wax is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight of wax relative to the total weight of the composition and better still, from 2 to 18% by weight. weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 8 to 14% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said polar wax is selected from hydrocarbon waxes, silicone waxes, and mixtures thereof. 9. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein said polar hydrocarbon waxes are chosen from ester waxes, alcoholic waxes and their mixture. 15 10. - Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of wax (es) apolar (s) on polar wax (s) is greater than or equal to 0.0 1. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the content of total waxes is, inclusive, between 0.5 and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. - Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said surfactant is present in a content greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 25 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said at least one surfactant is chosen from: fatty acid and glucose esters, fatty acid and glycerine esters, esters of fatty acids and of sorbitol, silicone emulsifiers, and mixtures thereof. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf10 14. - Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein said silicone emulsifiers are chosen from polyalkyl polyether siloxanes bearing polyoxyalkylenated groups grafted onto the main silicone chain, and preferably polyalkylpolyether siloxanes bearing polyoxyalkylene groups grafted onto the main silicone chain. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the silicone emulsifiers are chosen from the group formed by the polydiorganosiloxanes of the following formulas (I) and (II): R 2 CH 3 -Si-CH 3 (1) I In which: R1 denotes a linear or branched C12-C20 and preferably C18-C18 alkyl group; Rz denotes the grouping of a linear or branched C12-C20 alkyl group and preferably C18-C18; C 1 H 3 O 3 R 3, R 3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 12 carbon atoms, denotes an integer from 0 to about 500, b is an integer from 0 to about 500 c is an integer from 1 to about 500, n is an integer of 2 to 12, 25 x and y are an integer from 0 to about 50 respectively, PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cfl, the sum x + y being greater than or equal to the value 1. 16. - A method of coating the eyelashes with a makeup composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said method comprises a step 5 of applying said composition to the keratin fibers, and in particular the eyelashes. PR91380 / KLP / PLC / cf