FR2958539A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING PARTICLES OF PIERRE PONCE - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising more than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of pumice particles with a mean diameter by volume of between 100 and 500 μm, one or more organic compounds chosen from a) fatty substances, b) water-soluble organic solvents and their mixture, and one or more surfactants, as well as a process for treating keratin fibers using said composition, kits containing it and its use.

Description

B09 / 5215FR GD / CV OA10131 Anonyme known as L'OREAL COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING PARTICLES OF PIERRE PONCE Invention of: KHENNICHE Samira COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING PARTICLES OF PIERRE PONCE

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, inter alia, pumice stones, a process for treating keratin fibers using said composition, kits containing it and its use. The keratinous fibers can undergo assaults of various origins such as mechanical aggression, such as detangling or blow drying; or chemical aggression, such as staining, discoloration or permanent processes. These aggressions will modify the mechanical, morphological and physicochemical properties of the surface of the keratinous fibers. Indeed, the cuticle, external layer of the hair presenting a structure in scales, is the part most easily reached by the aggressions. During these attacks, the scales are raised and the edges of the scales normally regular become serrated. However, the cosmetic effects provided by a hair care treatment are dependent on the surface properties of the fiber. During a treatment treatment for example, the degradations of the surface properties of the cuticle will lead to a heterogeneous deposition of care assets contained in conditioners. In addition, these changes in the morphology of the surface of the scales affect sensory properties, leading to a smoother fiber feel and more difficult disentangling. For many years, a way has been sought to deposit or penetrate care ingredients homogeneously on and in the fiber and to make these persistent deposits to several washes such as shampoos. It is known to treat damaged hair by applying thereto a care product comprising, for example, specific polymers such as silicones or cationically charged polymers. However, the improvement of the surface of the hair thus treated is only temporary, because once rid of the care product, for example after one or more washings, the hair returns to its original state. It is also known from WO 20091156668 a method comprising a step of abrasion of the hair using solid particles and a step of applying a cosmetic product. However, this process does not lead to satisfactory results and remains to be improved. There is a real need for compositions making it possible to sustainably treat keratinous fibers, such as human keratinous fibers, and in particular the hair, in particular those damaged on the surface. The invention aims, among other things, to meet this need and it achieves this through an anhydrous composition for the treatment of keratinous fibers, such as human keratinous fibers, and especially the hair, comprising at least specific pumice particles and particular compounds. A first object of the invention is therefore an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising; -more than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of pumice particles having a mean diameter by volume of between 100 and 500 g, one or more organic compounds chosen from a) fats, b) organic solvents water-soluble and their mixture, and one or more surfactants. A second subject of the invention is a process for treating keratin fibers, such as human keratinous fibers, and especially the hair, comprising at least one step of bringing the hair into contact with a composition as defined above. The invention finally relates to kits and a use of said composition.

As is apparent from the examples below, the treatment of keratinous fibers, and especially the hair, with a composition according to the invention or the process according to the invention makes it possible to provide care to the keratin fiber in a homogeneous manner without alter it by standardizing the deposit of the agents. An excellent smoothing of the keratinous fibers and a controlled volume of the hair are thus obtained. The hair is more textured and corporeal. The composition according to the invention and the method provide fine hair mass and volume control. These effects are all the more remarkable as the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, are sensitized. In addition, it turns out that the composition according to the invention shows very good qualities of use, that is to say that it applies and rinses easily. Finally, it leaves the keratin fibers, such as in particular the hair, after rinsing very soft to the touch. These effects are durable and are particularly resistant to several shampoos. The process can also be advantageously used to smooth keratinous fibers such as in particular the hair.

The invention may also make it possible to prepare the hair for a capillary after-treatment such as the application of a conditioner, a color, a perm, a hair-relaxing product, a fading product or other. The treatment of the hair which is operated by implementing the invention may be more or less important, depending on the initial state of the hair and / or the desired result. This treatment may in particular have the effect of including an elimination of heterogeneities on the surface of the hair, especially via an action that can be described as abrasive and, therefore, homogenize the outer surface of the hair. This type of abrasion can be relatively soft and / or of short duration, so as to avoid breakage of the hair, during treatment or subsequent mechanical stresses such as styling, for example.

Thanks to the invention, the hair can be visibly smoother and the effect of the treatment is durable. Without being bound by any theory, it may be thought that, thanks to the invention, the hair can be rid of deposits possibly present on their surface before the abrasion and the edges of the scales of the cuticle can be made more regular. In addition, after the treatment, products intended to strengthen certain properties of the hair or to modify their appearance can penetrate more easily and deeply into the hair thus treated. For the purposes of the invention, the term "anhydrous composition" means a composition whose water content is less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the total composition. More particularly, the composition does not contain water. It should be noted that when water is present in the composition, it is more particularly "bound water", as the water of crystallization of salts or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in the production of the compositions according to the invention.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field, especially in the expressions "between" and "from". Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. Pumice particles The composition according to the invention comprises more than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of pumice particles with a mean diameter by volume of between 100 and 500 μm. Pumice, whose INCI name is pumice, is of volcanic origin. It is formed at temperatures of about 500 to 600 ° C from the lava projected into the air which cools in its fall and whose degassing causes the formation of bubbles leading to low density and high porosity. Pumice is made of fragments of rhyolite, dacite or andesite. It is considered a glass because it does not have a crystalline structure. Pumice particles are abrasive solid particles. In particular, they may have a hardness greater than or equal to that of the hair, in particular ranging from 3 to 10 Mohs, or even greater than or equal to 4, for example greater than or equal to 5, and in particular ranging from 5 to 5.5 on the Mohs scale. The pumice particles have a lower average volume diameter of between 100 and 500 μm, preferably between 105 and 300 μm. According to the range of particles used, the volume mean diameter can be determined by using sieves or by laser granulometry. It may especially be a powder of pumice sold under the name of PONCE 0 '/ 2 D by EYRAUD, of average diameter D [4.3] (volume-weighted average diameter) of about 140 pm measured by laser diffraction. It may also be a decontaminated pumice powder marketed under the reference 0-D PONCE by EYRAUD, with a mean diameter by volume of less than 125 μm, or a pumice powder sold under the reference 2B D by EYRAUD Company, of average diameter by volume ranging from 100 to 500 μm. The composition according to the invention preferably comprises particles of pumice in a content ranging from 12% to 35% by weight, especially from 12% to 30% by weight, in particular from 12% to 25% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition. Organic compounds Fatty substances.

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more organic compounds chosen from a) fatty substances, b) water-soluble organic solvents and their mixture. The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa), with a solubility of less than 4%, and preferably at 1%, even more preferentially at 0.1%. They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as chloroform, ethanol or benzene. The fatty substances of the invention are non-oxyalkylenated.

Preferably, the fatty substances of the invention are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, silicones, unneutralized fatty acids and fatty ethers, and mixtures thereof. The fatty substances of the invention may be liquid or non-liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). The liquid fatty substances of the invention preferably have a viscosity less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, more preferably less than or equal to 1 Pa.s, and more preferably less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at the temperature of 25 ° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s -1.

By liquid hydrocarbon is meant a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon atoms and liquid hydrogen at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from linear - or branched, optionally cyclic C6 - C16 lower alkanes. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane, and linear or branched hydrocarbons of animal mineral origin. or synthetic of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, vaseline oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, squalane. In a preferred variant, the liquid hydrocarbon or hydrocarbons are chosen from paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly. The term "liquid fatty alcohol" means a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol which is liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention can be saturated or unsaturated.

Saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol. Octyldodecanol is particularly preferred. The liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond. Preferably, the fatty alcohols of the invention have in their structure one or more double bonds. When more than one double bond is present, it is preferably 2 or 3 and may or may not be conjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleic (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleic (or linoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenyl) alcohol and undecylenic alcohol. Oleyl alcohol is particularly preferred. By liquid fatty esters is meant an ester derived from a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol and liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). The esters are preferably the liquid esters of linear or branched C1-C26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyacids and linear or branched C 1 -C 26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of the carbon of the esters being greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched. Among monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, ethyl, isocetyl stearate and ethylhexyl isononanoate. , isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate. It is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono- or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar alcohols di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy-C4- C26. These include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; di (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; di (2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; trisostearyl citrate trilactate glyceryl; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; Diethylene glycol diisononate. The composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22, fatty acid sugars. It is recalled that "sugar" is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. especially alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. These esters may be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmito-stearate esters. More particularly, the mono- and di-esters are used, and especially the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose. By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name GlucateOO DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Finally, it is also possible to use the natural or synthetic esters of mono, di or triacids with glycerol. Among these, we can mention vegetable oils. As vegetable oils or synthetic triglycerides that can be used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty esters, mention may be made, for example, of triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids. with 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel , jojoba oil, shea butter oil. Preferably, as esters according to the invention, liquid fatty esters derived from monoalcohols will be used. Myristate or isopropyl palmitate are particularly preferred. By liquid silicone is meant a liquid organopolysiloxane at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). Preferably, the silicone is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group. These silicones can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention are liquid silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group. Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile. When volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly still from (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONEO 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, the dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE® SILICONE FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE, of formula: ## STR2 ## with D ": ## STR1 ## D: The cyclic polydialkylsiloxane mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon can also be mentioned, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50150) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '- ( hexa-2,2,2 ', 2', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5.10-6m21s at 25 C. This is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name "SH 200" by the company Toray Silicone, silicones entering this class are also described in the article published in US Pat. Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol 91, Jan. 76, p 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics". The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM 445 Appendix C. Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These nonvolatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA, such as, for example, the 70 047 V 500 000 oil; the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by RHODIA; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA. Among the silicones with aryl groups include polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. By way of example, mention may be made of the products sold under the following names: SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; . RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 RHODIA series of oils; . DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; . silicones of the PK series of: BAYER, such as the product PK20; . certain oils of the series SF of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265. The liquid silicones organomodified can in particular have thiol groups.

The non-neutralized liquid fatty acids are preferably unsaturated and / or branched fatty acids. In particular, oleic acid may be mentioned. The liquid fatty ethers are chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether. Fatty substances can be non-liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The term "non-liquid" preferably means a solid compound or a compound having a viscosity greater than 2 Pas at a temperature of 25 ° C. and at a shear rate of 1%. More particularly, non-liquid fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes, silicones, fatty ethers and non-neutralized, non-liquid and preferably solid fatty acids.

The non-liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated alcohols, linear or branched, containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. There may be mentioned, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol).

As regards the fatty acid esters and / or non-liquid fatty alcohols, there may be mentioned in particular solid esters derived from C 9 -C 26 fatty acids and C 9 -C 26 fatty alcohols. Among these esters, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate; isoketyl behenate; cetyl lactate; stearyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; myristyl stearate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; alkyl myristates such as cetyl, mirystyl, stearyl myristate; hexyl stearate. Still in the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and di, tri, alcohols. C2-C26 tetra or pentahydroxy.

These include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; Diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; dioctyl maleate. Of all the additional esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate and myristyl stearyl myristate. The wax or waxes (non-silicone) are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, and alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flower sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes, such as the one sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general. Non-liquid silicones according to the invention may be in the form of waxes, resins or gums. Preferably, the non-liquid silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly (oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups. The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures.

More particularly useful products according to the invention are mixtures such as: - mixtures formed from an end-hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such that the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company Dow Corning; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil. The organopolysiloxane resins that can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R 2 SiO 2/2, R 3 SiO 11 2, RSiO 3 12 and SiO 4. Wherein R represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl. Among these resins may be mentioned the product marketed under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethylltrimethyl siloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shinetsu.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: substituted or unsubstituted amino groups such as the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT.

Non-neutralized non-liquid fatty acids are preferably selected from linear and saturated fatty acids. There may be mentioned in particular lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid. The non-liquid fatty ethers are chosen from dialkyl ethers and in particular dicetyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or as a mixture. Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains one or more fatty substances which are liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa), possibly associated with one or more bodies. non-liquid fat, under the same conditions. In one variant of the invention, the fatty substance does not contain a COOH free carboxylic acid function. Even more preferably, the fatty substance is a vegetable oil or a liquid hydrocarbon. Water Soluble Organic Solvents A water-soluble organic solvent is understood to mean an organic compound soluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and liquid at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa) at a concentration by weight greater than or equal to 4%. Solvents are compounds capable of dissolving other substances without chemically modifying them.

The organic solvents of the invention preferably have a viscosity less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better still less than or equal to 1 Pa.s, and more preferably less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at the temperature of 25.degree. shear rate of 1 sl The organic solvents soluble in water according to the invention are preferably chosen from monoalcohols, polyols and polyol ethers. The monoalcohols are preferably linear or branched saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 5 monoalcohols. They are preferably chosen from C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol or isopropanol or aromatic ring alcohols such as benzyl alcohol. The polyols preferably comprise from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups per molecule. They can be linear or branched and preferably comprise from 2 to 20 carbon atoms. There may be mentioned more particularly ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, glycerol, hexylene glycol, butylene glycol, neopentyl glycol dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, polyethylene glycols. The polyol ethers are preferably the C2-C20 polyols described above etherified with one or more C 1 -C 10 alkyl or C 6 -C 30 aryl or C 7 -C 30 aralkyl radicals. Mention may be made more particularly of ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether or monoethyl ether, dipropylene or tripropylene glycol monomethyl ether or dimethyl ether, and polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether or dimethyl ether. The preferred organic solvents of the invention are polyols and in particular propylene glycol and glycerol.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may comprise only one and the same type of organic compounds, that is to say one or more fatty substances or one or more water-soluble organic solvents.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may comprise several organic compounds, at least one of which belongs to each of the two families of organic compounds, that is to say at least one fatty substance and at least one water-soluble organic solvent.

Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the total concentration of organic compounds chosen from fatty substances and / or water-soluble solvents may range from 50% to 89.9%, preferably from 55% to 85% and even more preferably from 60% to 60% by weight. at 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the organic compound is liquid, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a dispersion. When the organic compound is solid, the composition according to the invention can be in the form of a paste or a cream, having the advantage of homogeneously coating the pumice particles. Surfactants The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more surfactants, and preferably anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic or cationic surfactants.

Nonionic surfactants are well-known compounds per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178) and their nature does not not, in the context of the present invention, of a critical nature. Thus, they may be chosen in particular from (non-limiting list) alcohols, alphadiols, alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of oxide groups ethylene or propylene oxide which may range from 2 to 50. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; Sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylglucamines derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14) alkyl oxides or oxides N-acylaminopropylmorpholine; oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxanes. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the present invention may be in particular derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may in particular be made of alkyl (C 8-20) betaines, sulphobetaines, (C 8-20 alkyl) amido (C 3-8 alkyl) betaines or C 8-20 alkylamido (C 6-18 alkyl) sulphobetaines, and optionally secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives. Useful quaternized compounds, as defined above, may also be mentioned compounds of respective structures (I) and (II):

Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N + (Rb) (R1) (CH2000-) (I)

in which: Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and R, represents a carboxymethyl group; Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (B ') (II)

wherein: B represents -CH2CH2OX ', B' represents - (CH2) z-Y ', with z = 1 or 2, X' represents the group -CH2-COOH, CH2-COOZ ', -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2 -COOZ ', or a hydrogen atom, Y' represents -000H, ùCOOZ ', the group -CH2-CHOH-SO3H or -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z', Z 'represents an ion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal , such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine. Ra 'represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra'-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 group and its iso form, unsaturated C17 group. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate disodium, acid lauroamphodipropionic, cocoampho dipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL RO C2M Concentrate. Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C 8-20 alkyl) betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C 8-20 alkyl) amido (C 3-8 alkyl) betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the amphoteric or 21 and zwitterionic surfactant (s) are chosen from cocoylamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine. The term "anionic surfactant" is understood to mean a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2-, SO3H, SO3-, OSO3H, OSO3-, H2PO3, HPO3-, PO32-, H2PO2, HPO2-, PO22-POH, PO-. anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention include alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkyl aryl sulphonates and alpha olefins; esters, paraffinsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, alkyl monoester salts and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl acid salts ether carboxylic acids, alkyl amidoether carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.

These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units. The salts of C 6-24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C 5-24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C 6-24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and C 6 alkyl alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates. When the anionic surfactant or agent is in salt form, it may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably from sodium, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt. By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane. The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used. The optionally present anionic surfactants are preferably mild anionic surfactants, that is to say without sulfate function. As regards the mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl amido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl D galactoside uronic acids, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters. In particular, it is possible to use polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5%) sold, for example, under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain anionic detergent surfactant of sulphate type (alkyl sulphate or alkyl ether sulphate, alkylamidoether sulphate). And if it contains, its content is such that the weight ratio: anionic detergent surfactant of alkyl sulphate or alkyl ether sulphate / sum of amphoteric, zwitterionic, anionic mild and nonionic surfactants is preferably less than or equal to 1, and more particularly lower or equal to 0.75 and even more preferably less than or equal to 0.5.

The term "cationic surfactant" means a positively charged surfactant when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or contain one or more functions that can be used in the composition according to the invention. The cationic surfactants of the invention do not comprise anionic groups as described above. The cationic surfactant or surfactants are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Among the fatty amines that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of stearylamidopropyl diethylaniline and distearylamine. As quaternary ammonium salts, there may be mentioned, for example: - those having the following general formula (III): - + R8 \ "R1O1 N X -R9 R11 (III) in which the groups R8 to R11 , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R 8 to R 1 denoting a group comprising From 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens, for example the aliphatic groups chosen from C1-30 alkyl, C1-30 alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, C1-30 alkylamide, (C1-2) alkyl (C2-C6) amido (C2-C6) alkyl, (C1-C22) alkyl acetate, and C1-C2 hydroxyalkyl; is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, cates, alkyl (C 2 -C 6) sulfates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulfonates. Of the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III), tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred on the one hand. carbon, in particular behenyltriethylammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearyl ammonium chloride or else palmitylainidopropyltrimethylaminonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK. the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (IV) below: ## STR5 ## in which R 12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulphonates; in which the alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise respectively from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 30 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUATO W 75 by the company REWO; the quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (V): ++

1? -1.9

Wherein R 16 denotes an alkyl radical having about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R 17 is chosen from the group consisting of R 16 and R 17 hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R16a) (R17a) (Risa) N- (CH2) 3, R16a, R37a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulphates. Such compounds are, for example, the Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), the Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75),

the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (VI): ## STR2 ## wherein R 1 (R 2) n (CtH 2 O) x ù x-23 R22 (VI) wherein R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R 23 is chosen from: II - the group R 26 -C 2 X- - the groups R 27 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based groups, - the hydrogen atom, R 25 is chosen from: II - the group R 28 ùC- - the groups R 29 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon groups, - the atone of hydrogen, R 24, R 26 and R 28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R73 is R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 is R29. The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. .

Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate more particularly methyl sulphate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function.

The X- anion is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate.

In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (VI) in which R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group are used more particularly.

x and y are equal to 1; z is 0 or 1; r, s and t are 2; R 23 is selected from: ## STR1 ## ## STR2 ## the methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom; R 25 is selected from: ## STR2 ## wherein R is a hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17a hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear. There may be mentioned, for example, compounds of formula (XIV) such as the salts (especially chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, with C 10 -C 30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C 10 -C 30 fatty acids. plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methanesulfonate. methyl, para-toluenesulfonate methyl, chlorohydrin glycol or glycerol. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUATO by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUATO WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

As a mixture of ammonium salts, it is possible to use, for example, the mixture containing 15 to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate, 45 to 60% of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate and 15 to 30% of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium methylsulfate, the acyl groups having from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and coming from partially hydrogenated palm oil. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. The particularly preferred cationic surfactant (s) that can be used according to the invention are chosen from compounds of formula (III) or formula (VI). The surfactant (s) may be present in the composition in concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 25% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition. Preferably, the composition contains a plurality of nonionic and / or cationic surfactants.

Other components of the composition The composition according to the present invention may preferably comprise one or more oil thickeners (s). The thickening agent may be chosen from polymeric thickeners, non-polymeric agents, mineral thickeners, organic thickeners and mixtures thereof. By thickener is meant a compound that modifies the rheology of the medium in which it is incorporated. The oily medium thickener can be chosen from: - organophilic clays, - pyrogenic silicas - alkyl guar gums (with C1-C6 alkyl group), such as those described in EP-A-708114; oil-forming gelling polymers such as triblock or star polymers resulting from the polymerization or copolymerization of at least one monomer containing an ethylenic group, such as the polymers sold under the name Kraton; polymers having a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymeric backbone having hydrocarbon-based repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminally fatty chain optionally functionalized, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon-based units, as described in applications WOA-02/056847, WO-A-02/47619, the content of which is incorporated by reference ; in particular polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US-A-5783657 whose contents are incorporated by reference; - The silicone polyamide resins as described in the application EP-A-1266647, in the French patent application filed under No. 0216039 whose content is incorporated by reference.

Such thickeners are especially described in applications EP-A-1400234, the contents of which are incorporated by reference. The thickener may be an organic gelling agent, that is to say an agent comprising at least one organic compound. The organogellators may be selected from those described in WO-A-03/105788, the contents of which are incorporated by reference. More specifically, the polymeric thickening agent is an amorphous polymer formed by polymerization of an olefin. The olefin may in particular be an ethylenically unsaturated elastomeric monomer. As an example of an olefin, mention may be made of ethylenic carbide monomers, especially having one or two ethylenic unsaturations, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene and isoprene.

The polymeric thickening agent is capable of thickening or gelling the composition. By amorphous polymer is meant a polymer which does not have a crystalline form. The polymeric thickener may also be film-forming.

The polymeric thickening agent may in particular be a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial or star copolymer, or mixtures thereof. Such polymeric thickeners are described in US-A-2002/005562 and in US-A-5,221,534. Advantageously, the polymeric thickening agent is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin. The polymeric thickening agent is preferably hydrogenated to reduce residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers. In particular, the polymeric thickening agent is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C 3 -C 4 alkylene blocks. As the diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers and styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers. Diblock polymers are in particular sold under the name Kraton® G1701E by Kraton Polyiners. As the triblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers, and styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers. Triblock polymers are sold in particular under the names Kraton® G1650, Kraton® G1652, Kraton® D1101, Kraton® D1102 and Kraton® D1160 by the company Kraton PoIymers. It is also possible to use a mixture of styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene triblock hydrogenated copolymer and hydrogenated ethylene-propylene-styrene star polymer, such a mixture being in particular in isododecane. Such mixtures are for example sold by PENRECO under the trade names VERSAGEL® M5960 and VERSAGEL® M5670. Advantageously, a diblock copolymer such as those described above, in particular a diblock copolymer of styrene-ethylene / propylene, is used as polymeric thickening agent.

More specifically, organophilic clays are clays modified with chemical compounds that make the clay swellable. Clays are already well known products per se, which are described for example in the book "Clay Mineralogy, S.

Caillère, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd edition 1982, Masson ", the teaching of which is hereby incorporated by reference.Clays are silicates containing a cation which can be chosen from among the calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium, lithium and their mixtures.

Examples of such products include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites, saponites, and the family of vermiculites, stevensite, chlorites . These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, the clays are used which are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with the keratin materials. The organophilic clay may be selected from montmorrilonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof, optionally modified. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite. These clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulphates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

As organophilic clays, mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38, Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by United catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40, Claytone XL by Southern Clay Company; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the names Claytone HT, Claytone PS by Southern Clay.

The fumed silicas can be obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a large number of silanol groups on their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the names "AEROSIL 130®", "AEROSIL 200®", "AEROSIL 255®", "AEROSIL 300®", "AEROSIL 380®" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O- SIL HS-5® "," CAB-O-SIL EH-5® "," CAB-O-SIL LM-130® "," CAB-O-SIL MS-55® "," CAB-0-SIL M -5® "by the company Cabot. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of said silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups may be trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references "AEROSIL R812®" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-530®" by Cabot. - Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references "AEROSIL R972®", "AEROSIL R974®" by Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-610®", "CAB-0-SIL TS-7200" by Cabot .

The fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm. Preferably, a hydrophilic pyrogenic silica is used as the mineral thickening agent.

Preferably, the mineral thickeners are associated with carbonates, such as, for example, propylene carbonate. The thickening agent is preferably present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion, preferably ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 2 to 7% by weight. The composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise the additives that are conventional in the field, for example those chosen from the non-exhaustive list, such as reducing agents, oxidizing agents, sequestering agents, softeners, antifoam agents and agents. moisturizers, emollients, alkalizing agents, plasticizers, sunscreens, direct or oxidation dyes, perfumes, peptizers, preservatives, vitamins, anti-dandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, hair loss agents . The adjuvants mentioned above are generally present in an amount, for each of them, between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Among the adjuvants, the silicones with quaternary ammonium groups are particularly preferred. According to the invention, the term "silicone with quaternary ammonium groups" any silicone comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups. These quaternary ammonium groups may be linked in the alpha or omega position or in the form of side groups. They can be linked directly to the polysiloxane backbone or can be carried by hydrocarbon chains. The silicones with quaternary ammonium groups of the present invention are, for example, chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following general formulas: ## STR2 ## in which Si-O-Si-O-CH 3 R 1 CH 3 CH 3 -CH 3 (VII) Si-O Si ## STR5 ## wherein R 10 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 SiOO SiOO CH 3 R 1 CH 3 CH 3 Si -O, Si R 1 CH 3 n CH 3 (VII)

CH3 CH3 (IX) Si-O Si-R2 CH3-n CH3 CH3 CH3 R1 i-O [SHO, p CH3 R1 CH3 Si-O R2 CH3 CH3 H3 (X) Si CH3 1-Si-O which: RI, identical or different, represents a linear or branched C 1 -C 30 alkyl group, or phenyl; R 2, the same or different, represents -C eH 2 e -O- (C 2 H 4 O) a- (C 3 H 6 O) b- (PO 3 H) d -R 5 or -C c H 2 C -O- (C 4 H 8 O) a- (PO 3 H) d -R 5; R5, which may be identical or different, is chosen from the following groups of formula: R6 CiH {2r-9? (OH) g] N 1 R 7 R 7 radicals R 8 independently represent a linear or branched C 2 -C 22 alkyl or C 2 -C 22 alkenyl radical, optionally bearing one or more OH groups, or represent a ChH 2 H 2 COROR 9 group; R6, R7 and R9, which may be identical or different, represent linear or branched C2-22 alkyl or C2-22 alkenyl radicals, optionally bearing one or more OH groups, or R7 may form with a part of R8 a heterocycle (ring with at least one heteroatom such as for example N, O, P), the hetero ring is especially an imidazoline. Preferably R6 and R7 denote a C1-C6 alkyl radical and more particularly methyl, R9 preferably denotes a radical chosen from C8-C18 alkyl and C8-C18 alkenyl and in particular a cocoyl radical. m varies from 0 to 20; n varies from 0 to 500; p varies from 1 to 50 gvarie from 0 to 20; r varies from 1 to 20 a varies from 0 to 50; b varies from 0 to 50 c varies from 0 to 4; d denotes 0 or 1 f varies from 0 to 4, g varies from 0 to 2, preferably is equal to 1 h varies from 1 to 4, preferably is equal to 3 Z represents an oxygen atom or NH, A- represents a monovalent organic or inorganic anion such as a halide (eg chloride, bromide), a sulfate, or a carboxylate (eg acetate, lactate, citrate). Preferably, the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (VIII) or (IX) are used.

Preferably, the quaternary ammonium silicones corresponding to the general formula (IX) as defined above, and more particularly, those corresponding to the general formula (IX) in which at least one of the, and preferably all the following conditions are satisfied e is equal to 0; d is 0; a is zero; b is 1 n varies from 0 to 100; gestational at 0; f is 3; g is 1; R6 and R7 denote methyl; R8 denotes a C10-C22 alkyl radical. Among the silicones of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of those sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the names ABIL QUAT 3272, ABIL B 9905, ABIL QUAT 3474 and ABIL K 3270 by the company LIPO FRANCE under the trade names SILQUAT Q-100 , SILQUAT Q-200 WS, SILQUAT AX, SILQUAT AC, SILQUAT AD and SILQUAT AM all manufactured by SILTECH, by OSI under the name MAGNASOFT EXHAUST and SILSOFT C-880 and by UCIB under the names PECOSIL 14- PQ and PECOSIL 36-PQ (manufacturer PHOENIX CHEMICAL). These silicones are in particular described in the patents EP 530 974, DE 3 719 086, DE 3 705 121, EP 617 607 and EP 714 654. According to one embodiment, the silicone with quaternary ammonium groups is of formula (IX). Even more preferentially, the quaternary silicone is the compound referenced CTFA (non-INCI) under the name Quaternium-80. The silicones with quaternary ammonium groups used in accordance with the invention may be in the form of aqueous solutions, or optionally in the form of dispersions or emulsions in water. The content of quaternary ammonium silicones in the composition may range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight relative to total weight of the composition.

Galenic Form The composition according to the invention may be in different galenical forms such as a lotion, a gel, a cream, a wax or a paste.

When the composition according to the invention is in liquid form, such as a lotion for example, it is in the form of a dispersion. The composition may be packaged in any type of applicator container or not. The container may contain a ball or an organ allowing in particular to homogenize the composition before application thereof on the keratinous fibers. The container containing the composition may have a capacity greater than or equal to 15 ml, especially greater than or equal to 50 ml, or even 100 ml, especially greater than or equal to 150 ml, for example between 15 ml and 500 ml. The composition can be applied to any type of support, such as, for example, woven, non-woven supports, paper or flexible polymer. The composition can impregnate a wipe. The composition may be introduced into a vector fluid stream, and be projected onto the hair. In a particular embodiment, the composition may be contained in a reservoir of a comb or a brush having, for example, orifices at the base of the teeth or bristles making it possible to bring the product and to apply it to the hair , such as those described in WO 2009/156668. The composition according to the invention as defined above may be as it is or may result from mixing before the use of a first composition comprising pumice particles having a mean diameter by volume of between 100 and 500 μm; and a second composition comprising one or more organic compounds selected from a) fats and b) water-soluble organic solvents and mixtures thereof, and one or more surfactants. Treatment method The invention also relates to a method for treating keratinous fibers, such as human keratinous fibers, in particular the hair consisting in applying to the dry or moist keratinous fibers a composition as defined above, then optionally in rinsing. The treatment, for example abrasion, of the keratinous fibers, and in particular the hair, may take place immediately after the application of the composition to the hair, for example in a period of less than one hour, in particular less than 30 minutes, or even 10 minutes after the application of the composition on the hair. A rinsing of the fibers, when it takes place, can intervene quickly after treatment, for example abrasion, of the fibers. The time between the application of the composition and rinsing may for example be less than 4 hours, especially less than 1 hour, for example less than 20 minutes. In general, this rinsing is carried out immediately after the treatment. The treatment step, for example of abrasion, of the hair can be carried out by rubbing the hair with the bare hands or by interposing at least one surface between the hands and the hair loaded with composition, for example a wipe or towel, a glove or other. The treatment can be carried out otherwise than by means of a comb or a brush. The treatment, for example abrasion, of the hair may for example be carried out using at least one surface set in motion, in vibration or in rotation in particular, by a mechanized system. The treatment with the aid of the composition may be carried out, for example, by hand, wick by wick, in two movements: a first movement called "tangential", that is to say substantially along the hair, for example from the root to the tip, and a second so-called "shear" movement, that is, substantially orthogonal to the hair, in a direction transverse thereto. The two movements can be repeated several times, for example at least five times, for example ten times. Alternatively, only one of the aforementioned movements can be performed and possibly repeated several times. The treatment time, for example abrasion, using the composition according to the invention may depend for example on the desired intensity of abrasion and the state of the keratin fiber, and in particular the hair. The method according to the invention may comprise two treatment steps, for example abrasion, using two compositions successively applied, each comprising particles of pumice stone according to the invention, the average diameter by volume or the hardness pumice particles according to the invention of the two compositions being different. A single vial may contain both separately packaged compositions, or two different vials may each contain a composition. Another mode of packaging may consist of a bottle containing a base composition devoid of pumice particles in accordance with the invention, which are packaged separately, for example in at least two separate compartments, depending on their particle size or their size. hardness. In the latter case, the user chooses before the treatment, for example abrasion, the pumice particles according to the invention to be mixed with the base composition to form the first composition, the mixture being made by the user or in the bottle. The user can, after the first treatment, for example the first abrasion, perform a second treatment, for example a second abrasion, by mixing this time other particles of pumice stone according to the invention to the base composition to form the second composition. Rinsing can be done between and / or after both treatments. The treatment method can be implemented after a step of characterizing the keratinous fiber, and in particular the hair, for example by means of a visual examination with the naked eye or under an enlarging device or by way of instrumental, for example by recording the sound produced by moving a comb in the hair using a sound level meter or by optically determining the shine of the hair. The characterization of the fiber can still involve a chemical reagent applied to a sample of the fiber.

The method according to the invention may comprise the prior step of rinsing the keratin fibers before application of the composition. The method according to the invention may comprise the step of combing and / or rinsing the keratinous fibers after application of the composition. Rinsing can be done with water. The presence of surfactants in the composition makes it possible in particular to eliminate by emulsification the composition according to the invention. The process according to the invention may also comprise the step of heating the keratin fibers before or during contacting with the composition, for example at a temperature of between 40 ° C. and 250 ° C., in particular between 60 ° C. and 220 ° C. This can in particular increase the effectiveness of the treatment. It is also possible to heat the keratin fibers after the treatment so as to form them, for example by blowing. The heating of the hair may for example be carried out by means of an iron, a liquid water / steam mixture or by means of a heating helmet. The keratin fibers can be dried totally or partially. Application of a treatment product The method according to the invention may further comprise the step of applying, for example before or after treatment with the aid of the compositions according to the invention, another treatment product on 30 keratinous fibers. The treatment product may be, for example, a cosmetic product, in particular a conditioner, a perm, a relaxer, a product for bleaching or coloring keratinous fibers, in particular the hair.

The treatment product may for example be chosen from the following products, this list not being limiting: the products intended to modify the mechanical properties of the hair, in particular comprising a reducing agent, such as thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, cysteine sulfites, trihydroxymethyl phosphine, or an oxidant, such as H 2 O 2, persulfate or an alkaline hydroxide at a very high pH, the products restructuring the interior of the hair, for example containing an ionene, a protein, a hydroxy acid or a reactive compound , especially a formalin generator, a silane and direct dyes or oxidation. The treatment product can be applied before the treatment, for example of the abrasion type, and can help protect the hair during it, in particular to avoid excessive abrasion. The treatment product is preferably applied after application of the composition according to the invention. Thus, according to one embodiment, the method according to the invention may comprise an additional step consisting in subjecting the treated hair to a post-treatment, the post-treatment being chosen from the application of a conditioner, a permanent, a relaxer, a product of coloring or discoloration of hair. Processing kits The subject of the invention is, independently or in combination with the foregoing, a kit for treating keratinous fibers, and in particular the hair comprising a cosmetic composition A comprising particles of pumice stone as defined above and a composition B comprising one or more organic compounds chosen from a) the fatty substances and b) the water-soluble organic solvents and their mixture, and one or more surfactants.

The subject of the invention is, independently or in combination with the foregoing, a kit for treating keratinous fibers and in particular hair comprising: a composition or a set of compositions according to the invention as defined above, and a support comprising instructions for the use of the composition on keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, for example in order to carry out an abrasion of the hair. The kit may further comprise a post-treatment composition of keratinous fibers and in particular hair. The post-treatment composition may comprise one or more of the following cosmetic active ingredients: a conditioner, a perm, a relaxer, a product for coloring or bleaching keratinous fibers and in particular hair. The post-treatment product may for example be chosen from those described above. The invention finally relates to the use of the composition as defined above for smoothing keratinous fibers, especially the hair. The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature. EXAMPLE EXAMPLE 1 Where

The following treatment compositions (pre-shampoo) were carried out (in grams of commercial product as such): Components% mp Tetramethyl-3,7,11,15-tri-hydroxy-1,2,3-hexa 0.5 decape 30 Purnice: Pumice stone natural silicate (<200 20 microns, hardness 5.5 Mohs) (Ponce 0 '/ 2 D decontaminated proposed by Eyraud) Glyceryl tri-iso-stearate oxyethylene (20 8 EO) (Uniox GT 20ISL Proposed by Nof Corporation) Avocado oil Sweet almond oil 16 1% aloc vera extract in a 5.5 mixture of liquid fatty esters (AIoe Vera Oit roposed by Aloe Laboratories) Pyrogenic silica with hydrophilic character 4 (Aerosil 300 offered by Evonik Degussa) Safflower oil 20 Fragrance 1 The study is carried out on a panel of 20 women: 10 women with long natural hair and 10 women with long hair sensitized. 10 to 15 g of the composition are applied per half-head.

The application, on wet hair pre-shampoo, is wick by wick in two movements: a first movement called "tangential" and a second movement called "shear". Both movements are repeated 10 times. The hair is combed, then rinsed and finally dried by blow drying.

The composition according to the invention shows very good qualities of use (easy application, rinsability, quality of the touch after rinsing). The shampoo applied after rinsing the composition of the invention foams more easily (more abundant foam) and more quickly. An analysis of the cosmetic effects provided by the treatments is carried out. This analysis is done by experts. 46 A shampoo persistence study of the cosmetic effects observed on application is carried out.

Sensory Analysis: The experts evaluate comparatively the sensory properties of each half-head: one treated with the method of the invention and the other treated with a placebo without pumice. The results show that the hair treated with the composition of the invention is smoother, more homogeneous than those treated with the placebo. The experts also observe that the composition of the invention makes it possible to reduce the mass and to control the volume of the hair (absence of frizz). The effects are all the more remarkable as the hair is sensitized and thick. After 5 shampoos, the smoothing of the keratinous fibers is preserved as well as the control of the volume whatever the degree of sensitization of the hair (natural to very sensitized).

EXAMPLE 2

The following pre-shampoo compositions (in MP gram) were produced: Components ° / nmp Propylene glycol 28 Glycerol 20 Pumice: Pumice stone natural silicate (<200 microns, hardness 5.5 Mohs) (Pumice 0% 2 D decontaminated proposed by Eyraud) Polyethylene glycol (8 0E) (Polyethylene Glycol 400 10 Dub PEG 8 proposed by Stéarinerie Dubois) Poly dimethylsiloxane alpha-omega quaternary ammonium acetate with a 50% coconut chain in propylene glycol (Abil Quat 3272 proposed by Evonik Degussa) Poly dimethylsiloxane oxyethylenated (10114 5 EO) Ipropyleneglycol (95/5) (AbiI B8842 from Evonik Degussa) Palmityl chloride amidopropyltrimethylammonium 60% in propylene glycol (Varisoft PATC from Evonik Degussa) N -octanoyl-glycine (Lipacid C8G proposed by 0.5 Seppic) Pyrogenic silica with hydrophilic character (Aerosil 300 5 proposed by Evonik Degussa) perfume 1.5 Coconut glyceryl oxyethylenated (7 EO) (Tegosoft 4 GC prop dared by Evonik Degussa) The study is conducted on a panel of 20 women: 10 women with long natural hair and 10 women with long hair sensitized. 10 to 15 g of the composition are applied per half-head.

The application, on wet hair pre-shampoo, is wick by wick in two movements: a first movement called "tangential" and a second movement called "shear". Both movements are repeated 10 times. The hair is combed, then rinsed and finally dried by blow drying.

The composition according to the invention shows very good qualities of use (easy application, rinsability, quality of the touch after rinsing). The shampoo applied, after rinsing the composition of the invention, foams more easily (more abundant foam) and more quickly.

An analysis of the cosmetic effects provided by the treatments is carried out. This analysis is done by experts. A shampoo persistence study of the cosmetic effects observed during the application is carried out.

Sensory analysis, The experts evaluate comparatively the sensory properties of each half-head: one treated with the method of the invention and the other treated with the placebo without pumice.

The results show that the hair treated with the composition of the invention is smoother, more homogeneous than those treated with the placebo. On wet hair, disentangling is easier when the hair has been treated with the composition of the invention. The experts also observe that the composition of the invention makes it possible to reduce the mass and to control the volume of the hair (absence of frizz). The effects are all the more remarkable as the hair is sensitized and thick. After 5 shampoos, the smoothing of the keratinous fibers is preserved as well as the control of the volume whatever the degree of sensitization of the hair (natural to very sensitized).

Claims (17)

REVENDICATIONS1. Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising -more than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of pumice particles with a mean diameter by volume of between 100 and 500 μm, one or more organic compounds chosen from a) the fatty substances, b) water-soluble organic solvents and their mixture, and one or more surfactants. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the pumice particles have a hardness ranging from 3 to 10 Mohs, or even greater than or equal to 4, for example greater than or equal to 5, and in particular ranging from 5 to 5. , 5 on the Mohs scale. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the pumice particles are present in a content ranging from 12% to 35% by weight, especially from 12% to 30% by weight, in particular from 12% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic compound is a fatty substance chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, silicones, non-neutralized fatty acids and fatty ethers and their mixtures. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance is liquid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance is a vegetable oil or a liquid hydrocarbon. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the water-soluble organic solvent (s) are chosen from monoalcohols, polyols and polyol ethers and preferably from polyols. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the water-soluble organic solvent or solvents are chosen from propylene glycol and glycerol. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentration of organic compounds chosen from fatty substances and / or water-soluble solvents may range from 50% to 89.9%, preferably from 55% to 85%, and more preferably 60 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains one or more nonionic and / or cationic surfactants. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant or surfactants are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 25%, more particularly from 1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises one or more oil thickeners. 13. A process for treating keratinous fibers, such as human keratin fibers, especially the hair, comprising a step of applying to the fibers at least one composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims, optionally followed by a rinsing step 14. The method of claim 13, characterized in that it comprises an additional step of subjecting the processed keratinous fibers to a post-treatment, the after-treatment being selected from the application of a conditioner, a permanent , a straightener, a product for coloring or bleaching keratinous fibers, and especially hair. 15. The method of claim 13 or 14, characterized in that the step of applying the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12 on the keratinous fibers and in particular the hair is performed by rubbing the fibers. keratinous and in particular the hair with the bare hands or by interposing at least one surface between the hands and the keratinous fibers and in particular the hair loaded with composition. 16. A hair treatment kit comprising: a compartment containing a cosmetic composition A comprising pumice particles having a mean diameter by volume of between 100 and 500 μm as defined in claim 2 or 3 and a compartment containing a composition cosmetic composition B comprising one or more organic compounds chosen from a) fatty substances, b) water-soluble organic solvents and their mixture and one or more surfactants, as defined in any one of claims 4 to 11, - and optionally a compartment containing a composition for post-treatment of keratinous fibers and in particular hair, preferably chosen from a conditioner, a perm, a relaxer, a product for coloring or bleaching keratinous fibers and in particular hair. 17. Use of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12 for smoothing keratinous fibers, especially the hair.