FR2951942A1 - Cosmetic use of Terminalia or its extract as agent to decrease, delay, prevent whitening of hair and/or body hair - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of at least one plant of the species Terminalia or one of its extracts as an agent for reducing or preventing whitening of hair and / or hair, said extract being used orally. It also relates to a cosmetic treatment method by administration of Terminalia.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic treatment methods for preventing or reducing whitening of integuments, and the use of plant extracts as an agent for promoting pigmentation of integuments and / or for limiting and / or preventing depigmentation. In particular, it concerns extracts of Terminalia, or compositions containing them, for combating canities.

The color of human hair and skin is a function of various factors including seasons of the year, race, sex and age. It is mainly determined by the concentration of melanin produced by melanocytes. Melanocytes are specialized cells that, via particular organelles, melanosomes, synthesize melanin.

The synthesis of melanin or melanogenesis is complex and involves schematically the following main steps: Tyrosine ---> Dopa ---> Dopaquinone ---> Dopachrome ---> Melanin

Tyrosinase (monophenol dihydroxyl phenylalanine: oxygen oxidoreductase EC 1.14.18.1) is involved in this series of reactions by catalyzing in particular the conversion reaction of tyrosine to Dopa (dihydroxyphenylalanine) and the conversion reaction of Dopa to Dopaquinone.

The upper part of the hair follicle presents itself as a tubular invagination of the epidermis which penetrates to the deep layers of the dermis. The lower part, or hairy bulb, itself has an intussusception in which is the dermal papilla. Around the dermal papilla, there is an area populated by cells with a high rate of proliferation (matrix cells) in the lower part of the bulb. These cells are the precursors of the keratinized cells that will constitute the hair. The cells that result from the proliferation of these precursors migrate vertically into the bulb and keratinize gradually in the upper part of the bulb, this set of keratinized cells will form the hair shaft: The hair and hair color is partly based on the presence in quantities and variable ratios of two groups of melanins: eumelanins (brown and black pigments) and pheomelanines (red and yellow pigments). The pigmentation of hair and hair requires the presence of melanocytes in the bulb of the hair follicle. These melanocytes are active, ie they synthesize melanins. This melanin is transmitted to the keratinocytes intended to form the hair shaft which will result in the growth of a pigmented hair or hair. This structure is called "follicular unit of pigmentation". In mammals, melanogenesis involves at least three enzymes: tyrosinase, DOPAchrome tautomerase (TRP-2) and DHICAoxidase (TRP-1). Tyrosinase is the enzyme that initiates the biosynthesis of melanins. It is also described as the enzyme limiting melanogenesis. Tyrosinase catalyzes the oxidation of tyrosine to Dopa and Dopaquinone. The Dopaquinone compound is spontaneously converted to Dopachrome, or cysteinyldopa derivatives in the presence of cysteine. TRP-2 catalyzes the tautomerization of Dopachrome to 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA). In the absence of TRP-2, Dopachrome undergoes spontaneous decarboxylation to form 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI). Finally, TRP-1 oxidizes DHICA compounds to form quinone derivatives. The three tyrosinase enzymes, TRP-2 and TRP-1 appear specifically involved in eumelanogenesis. In addition, the activity of these three enzymes has been described as necessary for the maximal activity of biosynthesis of eumelanines.

Hair and hair undergo a cycle. This cycle comprises a growth phase (anagen phase), a degeneration phase (catagen phase) and a rest phase (telogen phase) following which a new anagen phase will develop. Because of this hair cycle, the follicular unit of pigmentation must also be cyclically renewed. In humans, during the telogen-anagen transition, part of the inactive melanocytes contained in the telogen capsule proliferates, is positioned around the dermal papilla of the nascent bulb, and begins to express the enzymes necessary for the synthesis of melanins such as tyrosinase and TRP-1, but not the TRP-2 enzyme (Pigment Cell Res 2004 Oct; 17: 488-497). In parallel, the other part of quiescent melanocytes remains inactive in the upper region of the hair follicle. The tyrosinase and TRP-1 enzymes will be expressed in the hair bulb melanocytes throughout the anagen phase but will no longer be expressed in the melanocytes during the catagenic phase and the telogen phase. Thus the normal cycle of melanocytes in the human hair follicle requires the presence of precursor melanocytes in the upper region of the hair follicle which will be cyclically activated to regenerate the follicular unit of pigmentation.

It is known that in most populations the brown coloration of the skin and the maintenance of a constant color of the hair are important aspirations.

It is accepted that the appearance of hairs and / or gray or white hair, or canitie, is associated with a decrease of melanin in the hair shaft. This phenomenon occurs naturally during the life of an individual. However, the human being seeks to look younger and for aesthetic purposes, he is often tempted to fight this phenomenon, especially when it occurs at a relatively early age. Many solutions have thus been proposed in the field of artificial coloring by the addition of exogenous dyes intended to give the hair a coloration as close as possible to what it is naturally. Another approach is to stimulate the natural way of pigmentation.

Among the proposed solutions, mention may be made of compositions containing a phosphodiesterase inhibitor (WO9517161), DNA fragments (WO9501773), diacylglycerol (WO9404122), prostaglandins (WO9511003) or pyrimidine 3-oxide derivatives (EP829260). ). The application WO 04/073594 proposes the use of inhibitors of the enzyme 15-PGDH.

However, there is still a need for new effective solutions to promote the pigmentation of hair and / or hair and thus prevent or reduce canities.

Unexpectedly, it has now been found that this and other purpose could be achieved by using the Terminalia plant.

This is why the subject of the present invention is the use of at least one plant of the genus Terminalia or of one of its extracts or of a composition containing them as an agent for reducing or preventing whitening of the hair and / or hairs, said plant and / or extract being used orally.

The genus Terminalia comprises more than 200 species of the family Combretaceae, used in particular for the production of gum resin or tannins. It includes T. arjuna, in South East Asia; T. hilariana, in South America; T. obovata; and T. superba. T. catappa also called Badamier or Indian almond tree is a very common species, of Indian origin and the Combretaceae family. It is a tree 5 to 25 m high, whose branches are horizontal and subverticillées, especially at the top of the young plants that is commonly used in popular medicines African, Asian and American, for many years.

The application WO98 / 027956 proposes to use extracts of Terminalia catappa as anti-inflammatory, slimming, or to treat hyperpigmentation of the skin. Terminalia extracts are also described to prevent hair loss and promote hair regrowth (WO2006061847, JP2006045157). In addition, Terminalia extracts are also described to possess the property of inhibiting tyrosinase, the key enzyme of melanin synthesis, and to reduce the production of melanins by epidermal melanocytes and thereby reduce the pigmentation of the skin, these extracts of Terminalia (Terminalia belerica, Terminalia catappa, Terminalia chebula) can then be used for their depigmenting effect on the skin.

However, to the knowledge of the applicants, it has never been proposed to use Terminalia or its extracts, orally, to prevent, limit or stop the progression of canities, and / or promote the natural re-pigmentation of the dander , in particular hair and / or hair.

The subject of the invention is therefore the use of at least one plant of the genus Terminalia or of one of its extracts as an agent for promoting and / or inducing and / or stimulating the pigmentation of integuments, and / or as an agent to prevent and / or limit depigmentation and / or whitening of integuments, especially as an agent for preventing and / or limiting canities; this agent is more particularly used in mammals, in particular in humans. According to another of its aspects, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of at least one plant of the genus Terminalia or of one of its extracts in a composition adapted to the oral route for promoting and / or inducing and / or or stimulate the pigmentation of the integuments, and / or to prevent and / or limit the depigmentation and / or whitening of the integuments and / or to prevent and / or limit canities. The invention also relates to the use of at least one plant of the genus Terminalia or of one of its extracts for the preparation of a composition intended to promote and / or induce and / or stimulate the pigmentation of integuments, and / or or intended to prevent and / or limit the depigmentation and / or whitening of integuments and / or intended to prevent and / or limit canities.

The Terminalia extracts useful according to the invention may in particular be chosen from the following species: • Terminalia acuminata • Terminalia alata (T. elliptica, T. tomentosa) • Terminalia altissima (T. superba) • Terminalia amazonia (T. hayesii, Chuncoa amazonia) • Terminalia anqustifolia (T. bentzo, T. bentzoin, T. mauritiana) • Terminalia arborea (T. citrina) • Terminalia arbuscula • Terminalia archipelaqi • Terminalia arjuna (Pentaptera arjuna, Pentaptera glabra) • Terminalia australis - Palo amarillo , Tanimbii • Terminalia avicennioides • Terminalia bellirica (Myrobalanus bellirica) • beleric • Terminalia bialata • Terminalia brachystemma • Terminalia brassii • Terminalia bucidoides • Terminalia buceras (Bucida buceras) • Terminalia bursarina - Bendee → Terminalia calamansanai → Terminalia catappa • Terminalia chebula (T. reticulata) Terminalia cherrieri Terminalia ciliata Terminalia citrina Terminalia copelandii (T. procera) • Terminalia corticosa (T. mucronata) → Terminalia eddowesii • Terminalia edulis (T. microcarpa) • Terminalia elliptica - (T. alata, T. tomentosa) • Terminalia eriostachya • Terminalia erythrophylla (T. erythrophyllum) • Terminalia ferdinandiana • Terminalia foetidissima (T. ovocarpa) • Terminalia franchetii (T. triptera) • Terminalia glabrescens • Terminalia glaucifolia • Terminalia hararensis • Terminalia hecistocarpa 20 25 30 35 • Terminalia intermedia • Terminalia ivorensis • Terminalia ianuariensis • Terminalia kaernbachii (T. okari) • Terminalia kanqeanensis • Terminalia kuhlmannii • Terminalia latifolia • Terminalia mantaly - • Terminalia molinetii (Bucida molinetii) • Terminalia muelleri • Terminalia myriocarpa • Terminalia nitens • Terminalia novocaledonica • Terminalia oblonqata • Terminalia obovata • Terminalia oliveri • Terminalia paniculata • Terminalia parviflora • Terminalia pellucida • Terminalia phanerophlebia • Terminalia phellocarpa • Terminalia prunioides - • Terminalia reitzii • Te rminalia rerei • Terminalia schimperiana • Terminalia sericea - • Terminalia seriocarpa - Damson • Terminalia subspathulata • Terminalia superba - Limba • Terminalia tripteroides • Terminalia volucris

Advantageously, the extract is chosen from extracts of Terminalia Belerica, Terminalia Chebula, Terminalia Arjuna and / or Terminalia Catappa, in particular Terminalia Chebula.35 By skin is meant the entire skin coating, and in particular the scalp and the mucous membranes . By dander, we mean all the integumentary appendages and in particular the nails, the hair and the hair. By hair and hair is meant all the hairy appendages and in particular also the eyelashes and the eyebrows.

The Terminalia extract useful according to the invention can be obtained from all the parts of the plant and in particular chosen from flower extracts, fruit extracts, leaf extracts and bark extracts from Terminalia, and their mixtures in all proportions. According to one embodiment, a fruit extract is used which can come from all parts of the fruit. This may include the fruit of Terminalia Belerica, Terminalia Chebula, Terminalia Arjuna, Terminalia Catappa. In another aspect, the useful extracts according to the invention are prepared from the leaves of Terminalia Catappa, or else from bark of Terminalia Belerica, Terminalia Chebula, Terminalia Arjuna, Terminalia Catappa.

By extract is meant both a raw mixture of parts of the plant roughly reduced in pieces and the extraction solvent as more or less elaborate fractions or preparations solubilized active principles during extraction. A total extract, that is to say an extract comprising all the fractions present in the parts of Terminalia, can be used. According to another embodiment of the invention, at least one extract enriched in certain fractions will be used.

The extract can be obtained by any method for preparing a plant extract known to those skilled in the art. In particular, the extract may be obtained by maceration of the part of the plant in water, or in a solvent composed of a mixture of water and an organic solvent, for example water-alcohol, or water- acetone, or water-propylene glycol, or water-butylene glycol. The plant / solvent ratio may vary for example and without limitation from 1/4 to 1/20. Advantageously, the preparation of the extract begins by grinding the parts of the plant followed by maceration in the extraction solvent for several hours. Extraction can be performed with stirring to improve performance. The extraction can be carried out at ambient temperature or by increasing the temperature, for example at 50 ° C. or else at 60 ° C. Once the extraction is carried out, the solution obtained is filtered. The solution thus obtained can be concentrated by any method known to those skilled in the art. Similarly, the solution obtained can be lyophilized by any conventional freeze-drying method, thereby obtaining a powder. The extraction from the fruit of Terminalia Belerica, Terminalia Chebula, Terminalia Arjuna, Terminalia Catappa can result, according to a particular method of production, in the preparation of an essential oil. The extract in the form of a concentrated solution, as well as the extract in powder form, as well as the extract in the form of an essential oil may be taken up in a suitable medium for oral consumption for humans. According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the extract is chosen from aqueous extracts and alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic extracts of Terminalia. Such extracts are recorded for example with the CAS number 182371-63-7 for the Terminalia Catappa. In addition, extracts of Terminalia Chebula and Terminalia Belerica are marketed for example by Sabinsa corp under the trade name "Terminalia Chebula Extract" and "Terminalia Belerica Extract".

Advantageously, the Terminalia extract is present in a composition suitable for the oral route, containing physiologically acceptable excipients. The compositions according to the invention are intended to be absorbed by any pathway allowing systemic passage, in particular orally, in order to protect or maintain in good condition the superficial parts of the body, or to improve the appearance of individuals, especially in the skin and its appendages. The compositions according to the invention are in particular food supplements. Orally, the composition according to the invention may contain the Terminalia extract (s) in solution in a liquid food such as an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, optionally flavored. They can also be incorporated in an unmanageable solid carrier and be for example in the form of granules, pills, tablets or dragees. They can also be placed in solution in a food liquid conditioned itself possibly in unmanageable capsules. For ingestion, many embodiments of oral compositions and in particular dietary supplements are possible. Their formulation is carried out by the usual methods for producing dragees, capsules, gels, emulsions, tablets, capsules or solutions. In particular, the active (s) according to the invention can be incorporated into all other forms of food supplements or fortified foods, for example food bars, or compacted powders or not. The powders can be diluted with water, in soda, dairy products or soy derivatives, or incorporated into food bars.

The active agents according to the invention can be formulated with the excipients and components customary for such oral compositions or food supplements, namely in particular fatty and / or aqueous components, humectants, thickeners, preservatives, texture, flavor and / or coating agents, antioxidants, preservatives and dyes common in the field of food. The amount of plant or extract of Terminalia will be adapted by the skilled person depending on the nature of the asset and the desired effect. As an indication, the Terminalia extract will be present in a composition suitable for the oral route at a concentration of between 0.01 and 99.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.1 to 50% in weight.

The content of Terminalia or Terminalia extract in the compositions, in particular the compositions intended for the oral route, will be adapted so as to result in a daily intake of between 10 mg and 1000 mg of Terminalia extract.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment method for reducing and / or delaying the whitening of hair and / or hair and / or promoting their natural repigmentation, characterized in that at least one extract of Terminalia or a composition containing it. According to a particular embodiment of the process according to the invention, at least one additional agent that is beneficial to the hair and / or hair, in particular an agent promoting the natural pigmentation or re-pigmentation of the hair, is applied to the subject. and / or hairs or decreasing their whitening, or a hair growth promoting or decreasing hair loss agent, a hair fiber quality improving agent such as a hair breaker or capillary diameter enhancing agent, or a hair loss improving agent; anti-dandruff agent or fight against the desquamative conditions of the hair. This additional agent can be applied orally and / or topically to the skin or its appendages.

Among the additional agents suitable for the implementation of the invention include by way of example - agents modulating the differentiation and / or proliferation and / or pigmentation of skin cells such as retinol and its esters vitamin D and its derivatives, modulators of cAMP such as POMC derivatives, adenosine, or forskolin and its derivatives, prostaglandins and their derivatives; extracts of microorganisms; anti-free radical agents such as α-tocopherol or its esters, superoxide dismutases or its mimetics, certain metal chelators or ascorbic acid and its esters; anti-seborrheic agents such as certain sulfur amino acids, 13-cis retinoic acid, cyproterone acetate; other desquamating agents of the scalp such as selenium disulphide, climbazole, undecylenic acid, ketoconazole, piroctone olamine (octopirox) or ciclopirocton (ciclopirox). In particular, it may be active stimulating regrowth and / or promoting the slowing down of hair loss, it may more particularly be mentioned without limitation: - nicotinic acid esters, including in particular tocopherol nicotinate benzyl nicotinate and C1-C6 alkyl nicotinates such as methyl or hexyl nicotinates; pyrimidine derivatives, such as 2,4-diamino-6-piperidinopyrimidine 3-oxide or "Minoxidil" described in US Pat. Nos. 4,139,619 and 4,596,812; Aminexil or 2,4 diamino pyrimidine 3 oxide described in WO96 / 09048; the lipoxygenase or cyclooxidase inducing agents promoting hair regrowth, such as those described by the Applicant in the European patent application EP 0 648 488; calcium antagonists, such as Cinnarizine, Nimodipine and Nifedipine; ATP-dependent potassium channel agonists such as cromakalim and nicorandil; plant extracts with pro-pigmenting activity such as chrysanthemum extracts as described in FR 2768343 and extracts of Sanguisorba described in FR 2782920.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the compositions containing the Terminalia extract also contain at least one other agent that is beneficial to the hair and / or the hair, in particular promoting the pigmentation of the hair or the hair, and or at least one agent that promotes hair regrowth or decreases hair loss.

Such additional active agents that are beneficial to the hair as defined above, may especially be chosen from taurine; grape seed extracts; green tea extracts; trace elements such as Zinc and selenium; vitamins such as vitamin A, vitamin E and vitamin C; cathechines such as epicatechin, gallocatechine, epigallocatechine or epigallocatechin gallate; pine phytosterols. Advantageously, the composition suitable for the implementation of the invention also contains at least one extract of a plant selected from Raspberry, Blackberry, Strawberry, Grape, Nuts, Punica granatum (pomegranate), Caesalpinia Spinosa. The Terminalia plant, its extracts or the composition containing them will be ingested on a regular basis, daily in particular 1 to 3 times a day. The Terminalia dose may be continued over time, for example for 2 to 4 weeks, but may be continued for 2 to 6 months without inconvenience.

According to one variant of the invention, at least one additional beneficial agent for the hair is applied externally externally to the skin or its appendages, in particular the hair or the hairs.

The invention also relates to an extract of at least one plant of the species Terminalia for use in preventing and / or treating canities.

The invention further relates to a combination product for simultaneous, separate or sequenced use comprising (i) a component comprising a plant of the genus Terminalia and / or an extract of a plant of the genus Terminalia (ii) a second component comprising an additional asset promoting the natural pigmentation of the hair or reducing their whitening, selected from extracts of a plant selected from pomegranate (Punica granatum), blackberry, raspberry, grape, nut, Terminalia (in particular Belerica, Chebula and Arjuna ) and Fragaria.

Other features and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the examples which follow. EXAMPLE I Measurement of Melanocyte Activity of Human Hair Follicles: The Activity of Melanocytes in Human Hair Follicles is Measured by the Method Described in the publication of Michelet et al. (Exp Dermatol 2008 Oct 22). Briefly, the steps of carrying out the test were as follows: the human hair follicles are microdissected and placed in culture in vitro in the William's E culture medium (Gibco-BRL) supplemented in particular with glutamine, insulin, hydrocortisone and antibiotics. The culture medium contains 2-Thiouracil [14C] at a concentration of 3 pCi / ml.

For the "test" hair follicle group (25 follicles), the culture medium is supplemented with Terminalia Chebula extract. For the "control" group (25 follicles), the culture medium is supplemented with the vehicle (in the same quantity as for the "test" group).

After 5 days, the hair follicles are washed with medium without 2-Thiouracil [14C]; then lysed by immersion in a solution of Soluene 350 heated to 50 ° C. A scintillating liquid is then added. The amount of 2-Thiouracil [1401 present in the lysates is measured using the TRI LUX 1450 Micro-Beta apparatus.

Terminalia Chebula extract increases the incorporation of 2-thiouracil [1401 in hair follicles.

Example II: Correction of bio markers of canities of human hair follicles: In the hair follicle of white hair, some mRNAs are over-represented (overexpressed genes) and others are underrepresented (under-expressed genes). These genes are bio markers of canities and their expression changes are associated with the development of canities. The level of expression of these canine biomarkers is analyzed by the standard quantitative RT-PCR (Q-RT-PCR) technique in human hair follicles.

To carry out the test, the human hair follicles of white hair are microdissected and placed in culture in vitro in the William's E culture medium (Gibco-BRL) supplemented in particular with glutamine, insulin, hydrocortisone and antibiotics. For the "test" hair follicle group (30 follicles), the culture medium is supplemented with Terminalia Chebula extract. For the "control" group (30 follicles), the culture medium is supplemented with the vehicle (in the same quantity as for the "test" group). After the time required to reveal the activity of the extract, generally from 24h to 5 days, the hair follicle mRNAs are extracted. MRNAs of the same experimental condition are grouped together. The level of expression of the mRNAs of interest is determined by a conventional method of Q-RT-PCR, for example using the QuantiTect kit SYBR Green RT-PCR reference 204243 of Qiagen, the measurement being able to be carried out on BIORAD's MyIQ device.

The extract of Terminalia Chebula corrects the expression changes of some bio markers of canities in the hair follicles of white hair.

Example III: oral compositions Example 1: Active dragee-type formula mg / dragée Terminalia Chebula 220 extract Excipient Cellulose microcrystaline 70 Encompress 1 M 60 magnesium stearate 3 Colloidal silica anhydrous 1 Coating agent Shellac 5 Talc 60 Sucrose 50 Polyvidone 6 Dioxide of titanium 0.3 Coloring agent 5 Example 2: Formula type Gellule Active gelatin mg / dragée Extract of Terminalia Chebula 220 Excipient Starch 200 magnesium stearate 3 Example 3: Formula type active unidose gel% Extract of Terminalia Chebula 8 Excipient Sugar syrup 50 Maltodextrin 15 Xanthan Gum 1 Sodium Benzoate 0.2 Water Qsp 100 Example 4: Active Capsule Formula mg / capsule Terminalia Chebula 220 Extract Excipient Glycerine 150 Magnesium Stearate 3 Water Qsp 5005

Claims (11)

Claims1- Cosmetic use of at least one plant of the genus Terminalia or of one of its extracts as an agent for reducing or preventing whitening of the hair and / or hair, said extract being used orally. 2- Use of at least one extract according to claim 1, characterized in that said extract of Terminalia is selected from the group consisting of flower extracts, fruit extracts, seed extracts and extracts of bark Terminalia . 3- Use according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the extract is selected from aqueous extracts alcoholic extracts and hydroalcoholic extracts of Terminalia. 4- Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the extract is selected from extracts of Terminalia Belerica, Terminalia Chebula, Terminalia Arjuna and / or Terminalia Catappa. 5- Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the Terminalia extract is present in a composition suitable for the oral route at a concentration of between 0.01 and 99.9% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the composition. 6- Extract of at least one plant of the genus Terminalia for its use to prevent and / or treat canities. 7- Cosmetic treatment process for reducing and / or delaying the whitening of hair and / or hair and / or promoting their natural repigmentation, characterized in that orally administered at least one extract of Terminalia or a composition containing it. 8- Cosmetic treatment process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the subject also applies to the subject at least one additional beneficial agent for the hair selected from the active agents promoting the pigmentation of the hair and / or hair, and the diminishing active ingredients. hair loss or stimulating their growth or fighting desquamative conditions, or improving the quality of the hair fiber, or strengthening the hair diameter. 9- Method according to one of claims 7 or 8, characterized in that the composition further contains at least one agent to promote hair pigmentation or to promote the regrowth of hair. 10-Process according to at least one of claims 7 to 9, characterized in that the composition contains at least one extract of a plant selected from Raspberry, blackberry, strawberry, grape, nut, Punica Granatum (pomegranate), Caesalpinia spinosa 11-Cosmetic treatment method according to at least one of claims 7 to 10, characterized in that at least one additional beneficial agent for the hair is applied topically to the skin and / or its annexes.