FR2836378A1 - Use of cytokine and growth factor stimulants to repair DNA in human cells damaged by solar radiation - Google Patents

Abstract

The use of a cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparation containing a compound having a protecting or stimulating effect on cytokines and/or growth factors, to improve the mechanism for the repair of DNA in human cells.

Description

<Desc / Clms Page number 1>

FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics and pharmacy. Its purpose is the use of preparations containing substances stimulating interleukin activity, for the improvement of the mechanism of DNA repair. Another subject of the invention consists of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations which contain such an active principle or a plant extract containing this active principle.

STATE OF THE ART
The body damage caused by ionizing radiation is constantly increasing in our environment and leads, as we know, to a constant increase in genetic alterations and cancer rates. Alterations in the hereditary heritage only appear after a certain threshold dose. They can already be detected at small amounts of ionizing radiation, as under the effect of short-term exposure to sunlight. The effect. Determining low doses of radiation is the damage to deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) as a carrier of genetic material. However, DNA alterations can be repaired to an astonishing degree by endogenous cell enzymes. In studies of the intestinal Escherichia coli bacteria, which strongly react with UV light, mutants have been found in genes called uvr-A, uvr-B and uvr-C.

UV-B radiation induces the formation of cyclobutanepyrimidine dimers, which represents the first stage leading to triggering mutations and immunosuppressive effects and results in photocarcinogenesis. It has been found that enzymes that are induced by uvr genes excit incorrect dimers of pyrimidine in the modified DNA. This excision repair is one of the fundamental repair mechanisms that minimizes damage caused by UV radiation. Immunomodulatory cytokines, such as interleukins, particularly interleukin-12, suppress keratinocyte apoptosis that is induced by UV radiation. They induce so-called NER [Nucleotide-Excision-Repair] genes, comprising

<Desc / Clms Page number 2>

 in particular the NER genes XPC, XPG, RPA (p14) and DDB2 which are repressed by UV-B radiation, and thus protect the cells against radiation-induced apoptosis by improving the mechanism of DNA repair ( Schwarz A., Ständer S., Berneburg M., Böhm M., Kulms D., Van Steeg H., Grosse-Heitmeyer K., Krutman J., Schwarz T., 2001, Nature Cell Biology, pp. 1-6 ).

 According to the international patent application WO 99/40896, cosmetic preparations containing substances which stimulate the production of interleukin-6 in keratinocytes are known. These preparations are said to be used against aging of the skin. Microorganisms of the family Rhodotorula represent a possible source of activating substances. Possible effects against damage caused by UV radiation are not described.

 Conventional UV filter protection has only a prophylactic effect and can not prevent further damage when the DNA is already altered.

1 de préparations destinées à être utilisées après exposition aux effets de la lumière solaire. The object of the present invention is therefore to provide preparations which contribute to repair of the damaged DNA. These compositions must be distinguished by good tolerance even by sensitive skin and in particular prevent cell damage by UV radiation, as sun protection before exposure to the effects of sunlight, and in the form of

1 of preparations for use after exposure to the effects of sunlight.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The object of the present invention is the use of a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparation containing at least one component having a protective or stimulating action on substances selected from the group consisting of interleukin-6, interleukin-8, interleukin-10, interleukin-12, interleukin-15, interleukin-18, interleukin-20, epidermal growth factor (EGF), necrosis factor Tumor (TNF-alpha) and the Transforming Growth Factor (TGF-alpha, TGF-beta), for the enhancement of the mechanism of DNA repair in human cells, by

<Desc / Clms Page number 3>

particulier pour des cellules qui sont endommagées par le rayonnement UV.

particularly for cells that are damaged by UV radiation.

8, l'interleukine-10, l'interleukine-12, l'interleukine-15, l'interleukine- 18, l'interleukine-20, le facteur de croissance de l'épiderme (EGF), le facteur de nécrose tumorale (TNF-alpha) et le facteur transformant de croissance (TGF-alpha, TGF-bêta), ainsi qu'un procédé pour l'amélioration du mécanisme de réparation de l'ADN, par application locale d'une telle préparation. Another subject of the invention consists of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations containing at least one component having a protective or stimulating action on substances selected from the group consisting of interleukin-6, interleukin-1,

8, interleukin-10, interleukin-12, interleukin-15, interleukin-18, interleukin-20, epidermal growth factor (EGF), tumor necrosis factor ( TNF-alpha) and the growth-transforming factor (TGF-alpha, TGF-beta), as well as a method for improving the mechanism of DNA repair, by topical application of such a preparation.

 It has been found that substances having protective and / or cytokine stimulating activity, in particular interleukins-6, -8, -10, -12, -15, -18 and -20, enhance the protective activity and / or stimulator of the mechanism of DNA repair. Substances that stimulate the formation of epidermal growth factor (EGF), tumor necrosis factor (TNF-alpha) and growth-transforming factor (TGF-alpha, TGF-beta) can also stimulate a positive effect on the mechanism of DNA repair. In the present invention, preparations containing these active substances will be used as a preventative antisolar agent, as well as preparations to be used after exposure to the sun, for the repair of cells damaged by UV radiation. In particular, preparations containing active substances which stimulate enzymes which are encoded by NER genes, such as XPC, XPG, RPA and DDB2, can be used for the enhancement of the mechanism of DNA repair in human cells. For this purpose, active substances which stimulate or protect the cytokine interleukin-12 are preferred.

 Active substances having a stimulating action in this sense include, for example, saponins, such as triterpenic saponins, in particular glycyrrhizin, and steroidal saponins, as well as plant extracts which contain saponins in an effective amount.

<Desc / Clms Page number 4>

 Substances such as arabinogalactans, glucans and glycans, as well as the extract of the Cassia ablata plant can also be classified as cytokine stimulators.

 In addition, another object of the invention is to be the use of plant extracts in preparations containing plant extracts, which cause this stimulation, for the improvement of the mechanism of DNA repair.

 In this case, the activity of the stimulants can be determined on primary cultures of human keratinocytes and can be demonstrated - using known immunocytochemical methods, by the determination of the cyclobutane-pyrimidine dimer - as well as by determination of the amount of interleukins released (ELISA test) or - by the messenger RNA assay for enzymes involved in DNA repair (RT-PCR method) (reverse transferase chain reaction).

 In addition to the stimulators, the preparations can contain for this purpose photoprotective filters and antioxidants, to oppose by a second mechanism to new cellular damage by sunlight. It has been found that the mechanisms complement one another synergistically.

Protective filters against UV light and antioxidants
By protective filters against UV light, are meant for example organic substances in the liquid or crystalline state at ambient temperature (sunscreen filters) which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and returning the energy absorbed under form of a radiation with a longer wavelength, for example of heat. UVB filters can be fat-soluble or water-soluble. Liposoluble substances include, for example: 3-benzylidenecamphor or 3-benzylidenenorphosphor and their derivatives, for example 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, as described in EP-B1-0 693 471;

<Desc / Clms Page number 5>

des dérivés d'acide 4-aminobenzoïque, de préférence le 4- (diméthylamino) benzoate de 2-éthylhexyle, le 4- (diméthylami- no) benzoate de 2-octyle et le 4- (diméthylamino) benzoate d'amyle ; des esters de l'acide cinnamique, de préférence le 4- méthoxycinnamate de 2-éthylhexyle, le 4-méthoxycinnamate de pro- pyle, le 4-méthoxycinnamate d'isoamyle, le 2-cyano-3,3- phénylcinnamate de 2-éthylhexyle (octocrylènes) ; des esters de l'acide salicylique, de préférence le salicylate de 2- éthylhexyle, le salicylate de 4-isopropylbenzyle, le salicylate d'homo- menthyle ; des dérivés de la benzophénone, de préférence la 2-hydroxy-4- méthoxybenzophénone, la 2-hydroxy-4-méthoxy-4'-méthylbenzophé-

none, la 2, 2'-dihydroxy-4-méthoxybenzophénone ; des esters de l'acide benzalmalonique, de préférence le 4méthoxybenzmalonate de di (2-éthylhexyle) ; des dérivés de la triazine, comme par exemple la 2, 4, 6-trianilino- (pcarbo-2'-éthyl-l'-hexyloxy) -1, 3, 5-triazine et l'octyltriazone telle que décrite dans EP-AI-0 818 450 ou les dioctylbutamidotriazones (Uvasorb HEB) ; des propane-l, 3-diones, comme par exemple la 1-(4-terbutylphényl) -3- (4'-méthoxyphényl) propane-l, 3-dione ; des dérivés de cétotricyclo (5.2. 1.0) décane, tels que décrits dans EP- Bl-0694521.

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate; cinnamic acid esters, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylenes); esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homo-methyl salicylate; benzophenone derivatives, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenol;

none, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4 (2-ethylhexyl) methoxybenzmalonate; triazine derivatives, for example 2,4,6-trianilino- (pcarbo-2'-ethyl-1-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyltriazone as described in EP-A1 -0 818 450 or dioctylbutamidotriazones (Uvasorb HEB); propane-1,3-dione, such as, for example, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione; cetotricyclo derivatives (5.2.1.0) decane, as described in EP-B-0694521.

exemple l'acide 4- (2-oxo-3- bomylidèneméthyl) benzènesulfonique, l'acide 2-méthyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidèneméthyl) sulfonique et leurs sels. Water-soluble substances are: 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, for example its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts; benzophenone sulfonic acid derivatives, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; # sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor, as per

for example, 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

<Desc / Clms Page number 6>

exemple la l- (4'-tert-butylphényl)-3- (4'-méthoxyphényl) propane-l, 3dione, le 4-tert-butyl-4'-méthoxydibenzoylméthane (Parsol 1789), la 1phényl-3- (4'-isopropylphényl) propane-1, 3-dione ainsi que des composés de type énamine, comme décrits par exemple dans DE-Al-19 712 033 (BASF). Les filtres UV-A et UV-B peuvent naturellement être également utilisés en mélanges. Des associations particulièrement avantageuses consistent en les dérivés du benzoylméthane, par exemple le 4-tertbutyl-4-méthoxy-dibenzoylméthane (Parsol 1789) et le 2-cyano-3,3phénylcinnamate de 2-éthylhexyle (octocrylène) en association avec des esters de l'acide cinnamique, de préférence le 4-méthoxycinnamate de 2-éthylhexyle et/ou le 4-méthoxycinnamate de propyle et/ou le 4méthoxycinnamate d'isoamyle. De telles associations sont avantageusement associées à des filtres hydrosolubles, comme par exemple l'acide 2-phénylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonique et ses sels alcalins, alcalinoterreux, d'ammonium, d'alkylammonium, d'alcanolammonium et de glucammonium. As characteristic UV-A filters, benzoylmethane derivatives, for example by

For example, 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4-tert-butylphenyl) isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione as well as enamine compounds as described, for example, in DE-Al-19 712 033 (BASF). UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in blends. Particularly advantageous combinations are benzoylmethane derivatives, for example 4-tert-butyl-4-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789) and 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene) in combination with cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate. Such combinations are advantageously associated with water-soluble filters, such as, for example, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid and its alkaline, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts.

 In addition to the solid substances mentioned, insoluble photoprotective pigments, namely metal oxides or finely dispersed salts, are also considered for this purpose.

Examples of suitable metal oxides that may be mentioned in particular are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, the oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium, as well as mixtures thereof. As salts, silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used. Oxides and salts are used in the form of pigments for skin care emulsions and skin protection and make-up cosmetics.

The particles should in this case have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, and particles having an ellipsoid shape or otherwise deviating from the spherical shape may also be used. The pigments may also be present surface-treated, that is to say rendered hydrophilic or hydrophobic. Typical examples are

<Desc / Clms Page number 7>

(1996), ainsi que Par%. Kosm 3, 11 (1999). coated titanium dioxides, such as, for example, titanium dioxide T805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ™ T2000 (Merck). As hydrophobic coating agents, silicones and, in particular, trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly preferred. In antisolar products, the so-called micro-or nanopigments are preferably used. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Other suitable UV filters can be deduced from P. Finkel's account in SÖFW-Joumal 122, 543

(1996), as well as by%. Kosm 3, 11 (1999).

 In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary photoprotective substances, it is also possible to use secondary protective agents of the antioxidant type, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation enters the skin. As characteristic examples, mention may be made of amino acids (for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (egerin for example), carotenoids, carotenes (for example a-carotene, s-carotene, lycopine) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (dihydrolipoic acid for example), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glycerylic esters) as well as their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionate d istaryl, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (for example buthioninesulfoximines, homocysteinesulfoximine, buthioninesulfones, penta-, hexa- , heptathioninesulfoximine) in very low tolerated doses (for example from pmoles to moles / kg), as well as chelating agents (of metals) (for example α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid,

<Desc / Clms Page number 8>

 lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acids, extracts of bile acids, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (for example γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and its derivatives (for example ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl-Mg phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (for example vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and its derivatives (for example vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benjoin resin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylideneglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguarinesinic acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid , trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, the annose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (for example ZnO, ZnSO4), selenium and its derivatives (for example selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans stilbene oxide) and the appropriate derivatives according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances mentioned.

Industrial application
The preparations according to the invention can be used in the form of creams, gels, lotions, emulsions, fats / waxes, stick preparations or ointments. These preparations may contain, as other adjuvants and additives, mild surfactants, oily substances, emulsifiers, pearlescent effect waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone-type compounds. fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic active substances, film-forming agents, swelling agents, insect repellents, hydrotropic agents, solubilizers, preservatives, essential oils, dyes and the like.

surfactants
As surface-active substances, there may be contained anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, the proportion of which in the products will vary.

<Desc / Clms Page number 9>

 usually from about 1 to 70, preferably from 5 to 50 and in particular from 10 to 30% by weight. Typical examples of anionic surfactants include soaps, alkyl benzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfonated fatty acids, alkyl sulphates, fatty alcohol ether sulphates, glycerol ether sulphates, acid ether sulphates. fatty acid, hydroxylated mixed ether sulphates, (ether) sulphates of monoglycerides, (ether) sulphates of fatty amides, mono- and dialkyl sulphosuccinates, mono- and dialkylsulphosuccinamates, sulpho-triglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, isethionates of fatty acids, sarcosinates of fatty acids, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids such as acyllactylates, acyltartrates, acylglutamates and acylaspartates, alkyloligoglucoside sulphates, condensation products of fatty acids and proteins (in particular vegetable products based on wheat) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. When the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional but preferably narrow homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants include polyglycol ethers of fatty alcohols, polyglycol ethers of alkylphenols, esters of polyglycols and fatty acids, polyglycol ethers of fatty amides, polyglycol ethers of fatty amines, triglycerides. alkoxylates, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alkyl (alkenyl) oligoglycosides or glucuronic acid derivatives, N-alkylglucamides of fatty acids, protein hydrolysates (in particular wheat-based plant products) ), esters of fatty acids and polyols, carbohydrate esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides.

When the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, the latter may have a conventional but preferably narrow homolog distribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants include quaternary ammonium compounds, such as dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and quaternary ester compounds, especially trialkanolamine and quaternary fatty acid ester salts. As typical examples of amphoteric surfactants or

<Desc / Clms Page number 10>

 zwitterionic include alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. As regards the surfactants mentioned, they are exclusively known compounds. For the structure and preparation of these substances, reference is made to the corresponding synthetic works, for example J. Falbe (publisher), Surfactants in Consumer Products, Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, p. 54-124, or J. Falbe (publisher), Katalysatoren, Tenside und Mineralöladditive, Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, p. 123-217. As typical examples of mild surfactants which are particularly suitable, that is to say particularly well tolerated by the skin, mention may be made of polyglycol ethersulfates and of fatty alcohols, monoglyceride sulphates, mono- and / or dialkylsulphosuccinates. , fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyloligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and / or condensation products of fatty acids and proteins, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.

Oily body
As an oily substance, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having from 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, and linear C 6 -C 22 fatty acid esters with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, or branched C6-C13 carboxylic acid esters with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, sodium stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl erucate , isostearyl myristate, palmitate isostearyl stearate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleate

<Desc / Clms Page number 11>

 of oleyl, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate, and erucyl beeteate erucyl. In addition, linear C 6 -C 22 fatty acid esters with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of (C 18 -C 38) hydroxycarboxylic acids with C 6 -C 6 fatty alcohols should be used. C22 linear or branched (see DE-A1- 19 756 377), in particular dioctyl malate, linear fatty acid esters and / or branched with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, a dimeric diol or a triol trimer) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C 6 -C 10 fatty acids, liquid mixtures of mono- / di- / triglycerides based on C 8 -C 18 fatty acids, esters of alcohols C6-C22 fatty acids and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C 2 -C 12 dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxy groups, oils vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, carbonates of linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, such as, for example, dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol CC), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols having 6 at 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C6-C22 alcohols (for example Finsolv TN), symmetrical or asymmetric linear or branched dialkyl ethers, having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as, for example, dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol EO), ring-opening products of fatty acid esters epoxidized with polyols, silicone oils (Cyclomethicone, types of Silicomethicone and others) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.

<Desc / Clms Page number 12>

produits de fixation par addition de 2 à 30 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène et/ou de 0 à 5 moles d'oxyde de propylène sur des alcools gras li- néaires ayant de 8 à 22 atomes de carbone, sur des acides gras ayant de 12 à 22 atomes de carbone, sur des alkylphénols ayant de
8 à 15 atomes de carbone dans le fragment alkyle, ainsi que des al- kylamines ayant de 8 à 22 atomes de carbone dans le fragment al- kyle ; > alkyl-et/ou alcényloligoglycosides ayant de 8 à 22 atomes de car- bone dans le radical alkyle ou alcényle et leurs analogues oxyéthy- lés ; produits de fixation par addition de 1 à 15 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène sur l'huile de ricin et/ou une huile de ricin hydrogénée ;

produits de fixation par addition de 15 à 60 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène sur l'huile de ricin et/ou une huile de ricin hydrogénée ; esters partiels de glycérol et/ou de sorbitanne avec des acides gras insaturés, linéaires ou saturés, ramifiés, ayant de 12 à 22 atomes de carbone et/ou des acides hydroxycarboxyliques ayant de 3 à
18 atomes de carbone, ainsi que leurs produits d'addition avec 1 à
30 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène ; esters partiels de polyglycérol (degré moyen de condensation propre
2 à 8), polyéthylèneglycol (masse moléculaire 400 à 5 000), trimé- thylolpropane, pentaérythritol, alcools glucidiques (par exemple sor- bitol), alkylglucosides (par exemple méthylglucoside, butylglucoside, laurylglucoside) ainsi que des polyglucosides (cellulose par exemple) avec des acides gras saturés et/ou insaturés, linéaires ou ramifiés, ayant de 12 à 22 atomes de carbone, et/ou des acides hydroxycar- boxyliques ayant de 3 à 18 atomes de carbone ainsi que leurs pro- duits d'addition avec 1 à 30 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène ;

esters mixtes de pentaérythritol, acides gras, acide citrique et alcools gras selon DE-C-1 165 574, et/ou esters mixtes d'acides gras ayant Emulsifiers
As emulsifiers, for example, nonionic surfactants selected from at least one of the following groups are considered:

fixing products by addition of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, on fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, on alkylphenols having
8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl moiety, as well as alkylamines having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl moiety; alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl or alkenyl radical and their oxyethylated analogs; fixing products by adding 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide to castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;

fixing products by adding 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide to castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil; partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or branched saturated fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids having from 3 to
18 carbon atoms, as well as their adducts with 1 to
30 moles of ethylene oxide; partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of condensation
2-8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400-5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, carbohydrate alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkylglucosides (eg methylglucoside, butylglucoside, laurylglucoside) and polyglucosides (eg cellulose) with saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids having from 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their addition products with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;

mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohols according to DE-C-1 165 574, and / or mixed esters of fatty acids having

<Desc / Clms Page number 13>

from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methylglucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol; mono-, di- and trialkylphosphates as well as mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkylphosphates and their salts; >alcolanums; polysiloxane / polyalkyl / polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives; block copolymers, for example polyethylene glycol-30 dipolyhydroxystearates; polymeric emulsifiers, for example Pemulen (TR-1, TR-2) types of
Goodrich; > polyalkylene glycols, as well as> glycerol carbonate.

Ethylene oxide adducts
Addition products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols and / or castor oil are known products which are commercially available. It is in this case mixtures of homologues whose average degree of alkylation corresponds to the ratio of the quantities of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide and of the substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. . C12 / 18 fatty acid mono- and di-esters of ethylene oxide addition products on glycerol are known from German Offenlegungsschrift No. 2,024,051 as re-lubrication agents for cosmetic preparations.

Alkyl and / or alkenyloligoglycosides
Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the state of the art. Their preparation is carried out in particular by the reaction of glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

With regard to the glycoside residue, it is found that both monoglycosides, in which a cyclic sugar moiety is glycosidically linked to the fatty alcohol, and oligomeric glycosides having a degree of oligomerization preferably about 8 are appropriate. The degree of oligomerization is in this case an average value

<Desc / Clms Page number 14>

 based on a distribution of usual counterparts for such industrial products.

Partial glycerides
Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, di-glyceride, and the like. oleic acid, ricinoleic acid monoglyceride, ricinoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, acid monoglyceride erucic acid, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride, tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric acid diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride as well as industrial mixtures thereof, which may still contain, due to the preparation process, small amounts of triglyceride. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, moles of ethylene oxide to the mentioned partial glycerides are also suitable.

Sorbitan Esters
As sorbitan esters, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan mono-uterate, sorbitan sesqueryucate, sorbitan dieruceate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan sesquiricinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, the monomaleate of sorbitan, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, trimaleate

<Desc / Clms Page number 15>

 of sorbitan as well as industrial mixtures thereof. Addition products of from 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide, to the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.

(DehymulsPGPH), 3-diisostéarates de polyglycérol (LameformTGI), 4-isostéarates de polyglycérol (Isolan GI 34), 3-oléates de polyglycéryle, polyglycéryl-3-diisostéarate de diisostéaroyle (Isolan PDI), distéarates de polyglycéryl-3-méthylglucose (Tego Caret 450), polyglycéryl-3-cire d'abeilles (Cera Bellina), 4-caprates de polyglycéryle (caprates de polyglycérol T2010/90), polyglycéryl-3-cétyléther (ChimexaneNL), 3distéarates de polyglycéryle (Cremophor GS 32) et polyricinoléates de polyglycéryle (Admul WOL 1403), dimérates isostéarates de polyglycéryle ainsi que des mélanges de ceux-ci. Comme exemples d'autres esters de polyols appropriés, on peut citer les mono-, di-et triesters de triméthylolpropane ou pentaérythritol avec l'acide laurique, l'acide gras de coco, l'acide gras de suif, l'acide palmitique, l'acide stéarique, l'acide oléique, l'acide béhénique et similaires, ayant éventuellement réagi avec 1 à 30 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène. Polyglycerol esters
As typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters, mention may be made of polyglycerol 2-dipolyhydroxystearates

(DehymulsPGPH), polyglycerol 3-diisostearates (LameformTGI), polyglycerol 4-isostearates (Isolan GI 34), polyglyceryl 3-oleate, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate (Isolan PDI), polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearates ( Tego Caret 450), polyglyceryl-3-beeswax (Cera Bellina), polyglyceryl 4-caprates (polyglyceryl caprates T2010 / 90), polyglyceryl-3-cetyl ether (ChimexaneNL), polyglyceryl 3distearates (Cremophor GS 32) and polyglyceryl polyricinoleates (Admul WOL 1403), polyglyceryl isostearate dyestuffs, and mixtures thereof. Examples of other suitable polyol esters include the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like, having optionally reacted with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide.

Anionic emulsifiers
Characteristic anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, for example palmitic, stearic or behenic acid, as well as dicarboxylic acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, for example acid azelaic or sebacic.

Emulsifiers 2 Amphoteric emulsifiers and cationic emulsifiers
Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. By zwitterionic surfactants are meant surfactant compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate group and a sulfonate group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example coconut alkyl glycinate.

<Desc / Clms Page number 16>

sioactifs ampholytes appropriés, on peut citer des N-alkylglycines, acides N-alkylpropioniques, acides N-alkylaminobutyriques, acides Nalkyliminodipropioniques, N-hydroxyéthyl-N-alkylamidopropylgIycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, acides 2-alkylaminopropioniques et acides alkylaminoacétiques, ayant chacun environ 8 à 18 atomes de carbone dans le groupe alkyle. Un N-cocosalkylaminopropionate, un cocosacylaminoéthylaminopropionate et une acyl (Cig) sarcosine sont des tensioactifs ampholytes particulièrement appropriés. Enfin, on prend également en considération des tensioactifs cationiques en tant qu'émulsifiants, ceux du type des esters quaternaires, de préférence des sels d'esters de diacides gras avec la triéthanolamine rendus quaternaires avec le groupe méthyle, étant particulièrement préférés. dimethylammonium, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocosacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl moiety, and than cocosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. Particularly preferred is the fatty amide derivative known as CTFA Cocamidopropylbetaine. Ampholytic surfactants are also suitable emulsifiers. By ampholytic surfactants is meant surfactant compounds which, in addition to a C8 / 18 alkyl or acyl group, contain, at least in the molecule, a free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SOgH group, which are suitable for the formation of internal salts. As examples of

Suitable ampholytic surfactants include N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, Nalkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, having each of about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. N-cocosalkylaminopropionate, cocosacylaminoethylaminopropionate and acyl (CIG) sarcosine are particularly suitable ampholytic surfactants. Finally, cationic surfactants are also considered as emulsifiers, those of the type of quaternary esters, preferably salts of diacid esters with triethanolamine rendered quaternary with methyl, being particularly preferred.

Fats and waxes
Typical examples of fats include glycerides, i.e. plant or animal products, liquid or solid, which consist essentially of mixed esters of glycerol with higher fatty acids; as waxes, natural waxes such as candelilla wax, camauba wax, japanese wax, esparto wax, cork wax, cannon wax, wax of rice germ oil, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, lignite wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wax), grease of rump, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax),

<Desc / Clms Page number 17>

 petroleum jelly, paraffin waxes, micro-waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as, for example, lignite ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, as well as synthetic waxes, such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes. In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids are also considered as additives. By the term lecithins, those skilled in the art mean glycerophospholipids which are formed by esterification from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline. Lecithins are therefore frequently referred to by phosphatidylcholine (PC) specialists.

Examples of natural lecithins include kephalines, which are also known as phosphatidic acids and represent derivatives of 1, 2-diacyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to mean monoesters and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerophosphates), which are generally counted as fats. In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids are also considered.

Pearlescent effect waxes
Examples of pearlescent effect waxes are: alkylene glycol esters, in particular ethylene glycol distearate; alkanolamides of fatty acids, in particular coco fatty acid di-ethanolamide; partial glycerides, in particular stearic acid monoglyceride; polyfunctional carboxylic acid esters, optionally substituted with hydroxy groups, with fatty alcohols having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular long-chain esters of tartaric acid; solid substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty alcohols, fatty alcohols, fatty alcohols and fatty alcohols, which contain in total at least 24 carbon atoms, in particular laurone and distearyl ether; fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring-opening products of olefinic epoxides having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols having

<Desc / Clms Page number 18>

 from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and having 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, as well as mixtures thereof.

Preservatives and thickeners
As consistency agents, fatty alcohols or hydroxylated fatty alcohols having from 12 to 22 and, preferably, from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and in addition of partial glycerides, fatty acids or acids, are firstly considered. hydroxylated fats. A combination of these substances with alkyloligoglucosides and / or N-methylglucamides of fatty acids of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred.

Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar gum, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethylcellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropylcellulose, as well as high molecular weight mono-and diesters of polyethylene glycol with fatty acids, polyacrylates (eg Carbopoles and Goodrich Pemulen types, Sigma synthalenes, Keltrol types from Kelco, Sepigel types from Seppic Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone. Bentonites, such as Bentone VS-5PC gel (Rheox), which consists of a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, Distéardimonium-Hectorit and propylene carbonate, have proved particularly effective. Surfactants, such as oxyethylated fatty acid glycerides, fatty acid esters with polyols, for example pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, oxyethylation products of fatty alcohols are also considered. with narrow distribution of homologues or alkyloligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.

Supergrading agents 1 e ~ age
As superfatting agent, it is possible to use substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin, as well as acylated or polyoxyethylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, esters of fatty acids and polyols, monoglycerides and alkanolamides.

<Desc / Clms Page number 19>

 fatty acids, the latter serving at the same time as foam stabilizers.

stabilizers
As stabilizers, it is possible to use metal salts of fatty acids, for example stearate or ricinoleate of magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc.

dialkylamines comme par exemple le bis-diméthylamino-l, 3-propane, une gomme guar cationique, comme par exemple Jaguar&commat; CBS, Ja- guaro C-17, Jaguar&commat; C-16 de la firme Celanese, des polymères de sel d'ammonium rendus quaternaires, comme par exemple MirapolA-15, Mirapol AD-1, Mirapol AZ-1 de la firme Miranol. polymers
Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, for example a quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose which can be obtained under the designation Amerchol Polymer JRI, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides. quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, such as, for example, Luviquat (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, for example hydrolyzed lauryldiammoniumhydroxypropylcollagen (Lamequat L, Grunau), polypeptides quaternized wheat, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as, for example, amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine, Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat 550, Chemviron), in lyaminopolyamides, as described for example in FR-A-2 252 840, as well as their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic derivatives of chitin, such as, for example, a quaternary chitosan, optionally with microcrystalline distribution, of the condensation products of a dihaloalkylene , such as dibromobutane, with bisphenol

dialkylamines such as, for example, bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, a cationic guar gum, such as for example Jaguar &commat; CBS, Jaguar C-17, Jaguar &commat; C-16 from Celanese, quaternary ammonium salt polymers, for example MirapolA-15, Mirapol AD-1, Mirapol AZ-1 from Miranol.

 As anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl-vinyl copolymers are considered.

<Desc / Clms Page number 20>

lidone, des copolymères vinylpyrrolidone/acétate de vinyle, des terpolymères vinylpyrrolidone/méthacrylate de diméthylaminoéthy- le/vinylcaprolactame, ainsi que des silicones et des éthers de cellulose éventuellement transformés en dérivés. D'autres polymères et épaississants appropriés sont indiqués dans Cosm Toil. 108,95 (1993). pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers; methylvinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, non-crosslinked poly (acrylic acid) and crosslinked with polyols, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tertbutylaminoethyl methacrylate / methacrylate copolymers of 2 hydroxypropyl, polyvinylpyrrolidone

lidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam terpolymers, as well as optionally derivatized silicones and cellulose ethers. Other suitable polymers and thickeners are indicated in Cosm Toil. 108.95 (1993).

Cosm Toil. 91, 27 (1976). Silicone type compounds
Suitable silicone-type compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones as well as silicone-type compounds modified with amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluoro, glycoside and / or alkyl groups which, at room temperature, can be both in the liquid state and in the form of resin. Simethicones, which consist of dimethicone mixtures having an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are furthermore suitable. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones is further provided by Todd et al. in

Cosm Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

Biogenic active substances
By biogenic active substances are meant for example tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, ss-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudo-ceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.

Film-forming agents
Common film-forming agents are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan,

<Desc / Clms Page number 21>

 polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts, and similar compounds.

Swelling agents
As swelling agents for aqueous phases, it is possible to use montmorillonites, mineral substances of clay type, Pemulen as well as types of Carbopol (Goodrich) modified with alkyl groups. Other suitable polymers or swelling agents can be deduced from R. Lochhead's review article in Cosm Toil. 108.95 (1993).

repellents
As insect repellents, N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butylacetylaminopropionates are taken into account.

Hydrotropic agents
For the improvement of the flow behavior, it is also possible to use hydrotropic agents, such as, for example, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols. The polyols which are taken into consideration preferably have from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and comprise at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols may still contain functional groups, especially amino groups, or may be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are: glycerol; alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols having an average molecular weight of 100 to 1000 daltons; industrial mixtures of oligoglycerols having a degree of clean condensation of from 1.5 to 10, such as, for example, industrial mixtures of diglycerols having a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;

<Desc / Clms Page number 22>

methylol compounds, such as, in particular, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol; > lower alkyl glucosides, in particular those having from 1 to
8 carbon atoms in the alkyl moiety, such as methylglucoside and butylglucoside; carbohydrate alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example sorbitol or mannitol; sugars having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example glucose or sucrose; amino sugars, such as, for example, glucamin-dialkoolamines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1,3-propanediol.

conservatives
Examples of preservatives are phenoxyethanol, a formaldehyde solution, Parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, as well as the silver complexes known as Surfacin, and the other classes of substances indicated in US Pat. Annex 6, Parts A and B of the Decree on Cosmetics.

Essential oils and aromas
As essential oils, there may be mentioned mixtures of natural perfumes and synthetic fragrances. Natural perfumes are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylangylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petit grain), fruits (anise, coriander, cumin, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, camus), wood (pine wood, sandalwood, gayac, cedar, rose), aromatic herbs and herbs (tarragon, lemon verbena, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, green alder), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opopanax) . In addition, animal raw materials are considered, such as civet and castoreum. Characteristic synthetic odoriferous compounds are products of the type of esters, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Compounds

<Desc / Clms Page number 23>

 odorifiers of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butyl cyclohexylacetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzyl carbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate; benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenyl glycinate, allylcyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzylethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bud, ketones. include, for example, ionones, α-isomethylionone and methylcedrylketone, the alcohols include, for example, anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol; hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and balsams.

However, mixtures of various flavors are preferably used which together produce a pleasant note. Lower volatility ether-type gasolines, which are generally used as flavor components, are also suitable as essential oils, for example, sage oil, chamomile essence, gasoline and the like. clove oil, lemon balm essence, mint essence, cinnamon leaf essence, linden flower essence, juniper berry essence, vetiver essence, oliban, the essence of galbanum, the essence of labdanum and the essence of lavender. It is preferable to use bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, a-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, alum wood from Mexico, strong woodbrown, ambroxane, indol, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, tangerine oil, orange essence, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavender essence, muscadelle sage essence, ss-damascone, Bourbon geranium essence, cyclohexyl salicylate, heart greenofix, iso-E-super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, l gamma acetate, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romillate, irotyl and floramat, alone or in mixtures. Aromas include peppermint oil, spearmint oil,

<Desc / Clms Page number 24>

 anise essence, star anise essence, cumin essence, eucalyptus essence, fennel essence, lemon essence, wintergreen essence, clove, menthol and the like.

dyes
As dyes, suitable and tolerated substances for cosmetic purposes can be used, as summarized for example in the publication Kosmetische Farbemittel of the Farbstoffkommission der Deutschen Forschungsgemeinschaft Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, p. 81-106. Examples include cochineal red A (CI 16255), patent blue V (CI 42051), indigotin (CI 73015), chlorophyllin (CI 75810), quinoline yellow (CI 47005), titanium dioxide (CI 77891), RS indanthrene blue (CI 69800) and madder lake (CI 58000). Luminol can also be contained as a luminescent dye. These dyes are usually used at concentrations of from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total mixture.

Claims (6)

 DNA in human cells.

 1) Use of a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparation containing at least one component having a protective action or stimulator of cytokines and / or growth factors, for obtaining a composition intended to improve the mechanism of repairs 2) Use of a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparation containing at least one component having a protective or stimulating action on substances selected from the group consisting of interleukin-6, interleukin-8, interleukin-6 10, interleukin-12, interleukin-15, interleukin-18, interleukin-20, epidermal growth factor (EGF), tumor necrosis factor (TNF-alpha), and growth-transforming factor (TGF-alpha, TGF-beta), to obtain a composition intended to improve the mechanism

 for repairing DNA in human cells. 3) Use of a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparation containing at least one component having a protective or stimulating action on substances selected from the group consisting of interleukin-6, interleukin-8, interleukin-6, 10, interleukin-12, interleukin-15, interleukin-18, interleukin-20, epidermal growth factor (EGF), tumor necrosis factor (TNF-alpha), and growth-transforming factor (TGF-alpha, TGF-beta), to obtain a composition for improving the mechanism of DNA repair in human cells damaged by UV radiation.  4) Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the component is a plant extract.  5) Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations containing at least one component having a protective or stimulating action on <Desc / Clms Page number 26>  substances selected from the group consisting of interleukin-8, interleukin-10, interleukin-12, interleukin-15, interleukin-18, interleukin-20, epidermal growth (EGF), tumor necrosis factor (TNF-alpha) and transforming growth factor (TGF-alpha, TGF-beta), and possibly a photoprotective filter.  6) Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations containing at least one component having a protective or stimulating action on interleukin-12, and optionally a UV photoprotective filter 7) Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations containing at least one plant extract containing at least one component having a protective or stimulating action on interleukin-12.  8) cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations according to claim 7, characterized in that the contained component is selected from the group consisting of triterpenic saponins, steroidal saponins, triterpenes, arabinogalactans, ss-glycans and glycans. .