FR2873026A1 - COSMETIC PROCESSING METHOD FOR PREVENTING OR DELAYING THE SIGNS OF AGING - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic treatment, prevention, retardation and/or limitation of the signs of ageing of skin, mucous membranes or appendages, comprises applying a transdermal delivery system (A) comprising a composition (C) containing a non-indispensable micronutrient (I) to the skin, mucous membranes or scalp. An independent claim is also included for (A) in the form of patch (controlled release patches, reservoir system, magnetic field effect patches, gel patches with a base of hydrocolloid, oily gel patches and composite films of reservoir type) comprising theaflavine (0.001-10 g/cm 3> of (C)). ACTIVITY : Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The present invention relates to methods for the cosmetic treatment of

  skin, mucous membranes and / or integuments using transdermal delivery devices and devices adapted to these applications.

  In order to improve the appearance of the skin or superficial body growths, or to maintain them in good condition, cosmetic compositions are conventionally used, which are applied topically to the area where a cosmetic activity is desired.

  These compositions give good results; however, some actives sometimes require specific formulations to reach the target cells, or show their activity only after prolonged and repeated applications.

  Nutritional supplements have also been proposed to prevent or reduce certain aesthetic changes of the skin or integuments, by reinforcing their endogenous protection. These oral forms are a good complement to topical forms since they allow active compounds to reach the entire body and especially when it comes to important body areas. However, some individuals consider it a necessity to ingest daily or even several times a day, often for a prolonged period, dosage forms such as capsules, granules, tablets or the like, similar to those used in the pharmaceutical field. This sometimes leads them to interrupt the intake of these supplements before having obtained optimal efficiency. In addition, certain molecules undergo, during the enterohepatic cycle, transformations likely to reduce their activity, and can not be effectively administered by this route.

  There is therefore a need for a cosmetic treatment method allowing a good distribution of agents in all of the tissues whose appearance is desired to improve, without substantial degradation of the active form and which requires a limited number of applications and / or application to a restricted and / or inferior body surface where effects are expected.

  These and other objects are achieved in the context of the present invention by a cosmetic treatment method for improving the appearance of the skin, mucous membranes or superficial body growths, and more specifically for preventing and / or delaying and / or limiting signs of aging, characterized in that a transdermal delivery system is applied to an area of the skin, mucous membranes or scalp, the composition of said transdermal system containing at least one micronutrient, preferably at least one non-essential micronutrient .

  Indeed, the Applicant has now found that it is possible to maintain in good condition and / or to strengthen the resistance of the skin or integuments to the various attacks, intrinsic or extrinsic to which they are subjected, while maintaining an optimal level of micronutrients in different tissues, and this by bringing them into the microcirculation by a device ensuring their passage transdermally.

  For the purposes of the present invention, micronutrient is understood to mean compounds of natural origin found in the diet. In the context of the invention, micronutrients (or microconstituents) are used which are not essential for the metabolic functioning of the body. They are defined by nutritionists as microcomponents not essential by A Martin in The recommended nutritional contributions for the French population 3rd ed 2001 TEC & DOC, pages 249-252. These are compounds that are normally brought into food but for which there is no deficiency. The method according to the invention is therefore not intended to repair a proven nutritional deficiency nor to provide the body with a nutrient that would be essential for its proper functioning or survival.

  Micronutrients useful in the invention are micronutrients having an effect on the skin or superficial body growths, in particular by improving their appearance and / or by reinforcing their resistance to internal or external stresses, such as, for example, antioxidants.

  Patent 6,475,514 describes matrix patches for athletes in competition, containing a mixture of essential nutrients such as carbohydrates, electrolytes, vitamins, chromium and minerals; they aim to compensate for the depletion of nutritional and energy reserves during intense physical exercise.

  Transcutaneous administration of essential fatty acids to supplement deficient infants has been proposed by Lee et al (Archives of Disease in Childhood, 1993; 68: 27-28) or Bougie et al (J. parenteral and enterai nutrition, 1986, 10, 216-219), but these authors conclude that this route of administration is ineffective.

  Moreover, patches systems have already been proposed in cosmetics, but it is then a device intended to ensure better penetration of the active agent at the site of action, as for example in the application EP1002530 which describes antibacterial patches containing, for example, salicylic acid.

  On the contrary, the cosmetic treatment method of the invention makes it possible, by the application of a transdermal device, to distribute in the circulation, and thus in areas and tissues of the body which may be at least partly distinct from the body. application area of the device, one or more micronutrients not essential for metabolism, but the presence of which contributes to maintaining the aesthetic qualities of the skin or integuments.

  The bio-availability of non-essential micronutrients is often a limiting factor in their effectiveness as nutritional supplements. Their transfer, in active form, to the superficial cutaneous layers via the bloodstream is sometimes difficult to obtain (eg, Bayer T, Colnot T, Dekant W Toxicol Sci, 2001, Disodium and biotransformation of the estrogenic isoflavone daidzein in rats. Aug; 62 (2): 205-11).

  The non-essential micronutrients or microconstituents according to the invention may be molecules that the human or animal organism is capable of synthesizing or molecules that the body is not capable of synthesizing; in this second case, it is essentially constituents brought by the plants.

  The subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of at least one non-essential micronutrient in a transdermal delivery device, as an agent for preventing and / or delaying and / or limiting the signs of aging of an individual, in particular the signs of aging of regions of the skin, mucous membranes and / or integuments at least partially distinct from the area of application of the transdermal delivery device.

  Advantageously, the micronutrient is present in the composition in the form of a plant or animal extract or a mineral containing it.

  According to an advantageous embodiment, the molecular weight of the miconutriment adapted to the process of the invention is less than or equal to 1000, in particular less than or equal to 800, preferably less than or equal to 500.

  Preferably, the micronutrients are amphiphilic compounds, this property being able to be characterized by the measurement of the octanol / water partition coefficient, noted P. This partition coefficient P can be determined by the so-called "shake flask" method as described in US Pat. "OECD Test Guideline No. 107, N-octanol I Water Coefficient, Bottle Shake Method, May 12, 1981, as amended on July 27, 1995". The partition coefficient P represents the equilibrium ratio of the concentrations of the compound in the two immiscible phases and is a measure of the lipophilic or hydrophilic character of this compound. The affinity of the molecules for water or fats is expressed in log P. The compounds adapted to the process of the invention will advantageously be chosen such that log P is greater than or equal to -2. According to another aspect of the invention, the partition coefficient P of micronutrients between octanol and water is such that log P is less than or equal to 5.

  According to one aspect of the invention, the transdermal device contains at least one micronutrient selected from the group consisting of single or polymerized polyphenols as described by L Bravo in Nutrition Reviews 1998 vol 56 N 11 pp 317 - 33, with, stilbenes, lignans and flavonoids as described by GR Beecher in J Nutr 2003 133 3248s-3254s with flavonols, flavanols, proanthocyanydines, flavanones, isoflavones, isoflavonoids, * carotenoids, * coenzyme Q10 * lipoic acid, their derivatives and the like.

  The flavonoids are formed of a 3-phenylchroman backbone which may have various substituents and different levels of oxidation. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the flavonoids used are isoflavonoids which constitute a subclass of flavonoids. The term isoflavonoid groups together several classes of compounds, among which are the isoflavones, the isoflavanones, the rotenoids, the pterocarpans, the isoflavans, the isoflavans-3-enes, the 3-arylcoumarines, the 3-aryl-4-hydroxycoumarins, the coumestanes, coumaronochromones, amethyldeoxybenzoins or 2arylbenzofurans. In this regard, reference is made to a comprehensive review of isoflavonoids, their methods of analysis and their sources, in Chapter 5 "Isoflavonoids" written by P.M. Dewick, in The Flavonoids, Harbone publisher, pp. 125-157 (1988).

  It is preferred to use isoflavonoids of natural origin. These include: daidzin, genistin, daidzein, formononetin, cuneatin, genistein, isoprunetin and prunetin, cajanine, orobol, pratensin, sandalwood, junipegenin A , glycitein, afrormosine, retusin, tectorigenin, irisolidone, jamaicin, as well as their analogues and metabolites, and mixtures thereof.

  Isoflavones are preferred for use in the present invention. By this term is meant both the aglycone forms (daidzein, genistein, glycitein) and the glycosylated forms (daidzine, genistin, glycitin) of the isoflavones.

  Catechins are monomers that can have different isomeric forms and are a subgroup of flavonoids, which also include flavanones, flavones and anthocyanins, and flavonols.

  The subgroup of catechol polyphenols includes a set of compounds classically isolated from plants such as cocoa, tea, grapes and vines, pine (Pinus maritima), cachu, certain fruits (Scalber A J. Nutr 2000 130 2073s -2085S) and having a variable degree of polymerization. The base unit, also known as catechol or catechol, is penta-hydroxy-3,5,7,3 ', 4'-dihydro-2,3-phenyl-2-chromene, which can be in cis or trans form; epicatechin is its isomer, and may also be present in cis or trans form. Catecholic polyphenols include both the various isomers of base units (monomers), oligomers (or proanthocyanidins) or polymers (tannins).

  The catechins useful according to the invention are chosen from the group comprising: catechin, epicatechin, gallocatechin, epigallocatechin and their salts, their esters and / or their derivatives, in monomeric form. By derivatives is meant in particular the molecules substituted by one or more methyl or ethyl groups.

  Oligomers, or proanthocyanidines can also be used; they advantageously comprise from 2 to 14 base units, in particular from 2 to 10; preferably, their degree of polymerization is less than or equal to 5.

  Hydroxystilbenes are compounds corresponding to the general formula I: OH in which n is an integer between 1 and 4 inclusive and m is an integer between 1 and 5 inclusive. These compounds can be in Cis or Trans form. According to the invention, the term hydroxystilbene covers both compounds of formula I and their hydroxyalkylated derivatives.

  The stilbenes that may be used according to the invention may or may not be glycosylated. Glucosyl stilbenes and stilbenes are produced in plants, essentially in spermatophytes, and belong to the class of antibiotic molecules known as phytoalexins. Of these, a well-documented example is resveratrol or 3,4 ', 5-trihydroxystilbene.

  Resveratrol exists naturally in many plants and fruits in simple form (trihydroxystilbene) or glucosylated form (piceid, polydatin or 4 ', 5-dihydroxystilbene-3-O-O-mono-D-glucoside, for example). The two forms, simple and glucosylated, are found in particular in grape skins (Vrhovsek et al., Am J. Enol Vitic., Vol 48, No. 2, 1997) or in in vitro culture supernatants. vitis vinifera (Teguo et al., J. Nat. Prod., 61, 655-657, 1998).

  The properties of stilbenes and hydroxystilbenes have been used in the production of cosmetic compositions containing these compounds. For example, cosmetic compositions comprising resveratrol and their uses for combating the signs of skin aging, for smoothing the skin or for treating wrinkles and fine lines (WO 99/104747, Unilever, N.V.) are described. There is also described a process for obtaining resveratrol ester derivatives and their uses in cosmetic compositions as a resveratrol precursor (WO 99/03816, Caudalie). However, to the inventors' knowledge, it has never been proposed to apply them in the form of a transdermal delivery device in order to limit the appearance of signs of aging of the skin and / or integuments.

  Among the hydroxystilbenes, mention may be made of mono, di, tri, tetra, penta, hexa, hepta, octo, nonahydroxystilbene, or their hydroxyalkylated derivatives.

  According to the invention the hydroxystilbenes may be used alone or in mixtures of any kind, in glycosylated form, in particular glucosylated form as described in EP1175888 or non-glucosylated, and may be of natural or synthetic origin.

  The hydroxystilbenes which can be used according to the invention are chosen in particular from: 4'-hydroxystilbene, 2 ', 4'-dihydroxystilbene, 3', 4'-dihydroxystilbene, 4,4'-dihydroxystilbene, 2 ', 4', 4trihydroxystilbene, 3 ', 4', 4-trihydroxystilbene, 2,4,4'-trihydroxystilbene, 3,4,4'-trihydroxystilbene, 3,4 ', 5-trihydroxystilbene, 2', 3,4-trihydroxystilbene, 2,3 ', 4trihydroxystilbene, 2', 2,4'-trihydroxystilbene, 2,4,4 ', 5-tetrahydroxystilbene, 2', 3,4 ', 5-tetrahydroxystilbene, 2,2', 4, Tetrahydroxystilbene, 3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxystilbene, 2,3 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxystilbene, 3,3', 4,4'-tetrahydroxystilbene, 3,3 ', 4' 5 ', 5'-pentahydroxystilbene, 2,2', 4,4 ', 6-pentahydroxystilbene, 2,3', 4,4 ', 6-pentahydroxystilbene, 2,2', 4,4 ', 6 , 6'-hexahydroxystilbène.

  Preferably, 3,4 ', 5-trihydroxystilbene or resveratrol is used according to the invention.

  According to one of the embodiments of the invention, the non-essential micronutrient may be associated with an indispensable micronutrient, in particular a microconstituent capable of enhancing its activity by a synergistic type mechanism or by improving its penetration. The composition of the transdermal device may therefore also contain minerals and vitamins known to be important for the skin and integuments, as published by Boelsma E, Van de Vijver LP, Goldbohm RA, Klopping-Ketelaars IA, Hendriks HF, Roza L (Human skin condition and its associations with nutrient concentrations in serum and diet, Am J Clin Nutr 2003 Feb; 77 (2): 348-55). Vitamins may thus be present in the compositions of the transdermal delivery systems according to the invention. These may be mainly fat-soluble vitamins, such as vitamins A, including retinol, retinol acetate, retinol palmitate, beta-carotene, vitamin D, especially D2, D3, cholecalciferol and ergocalciferol, or vitamin E which includes tocopheryl compounds such as D-alpha-tocopherol, DL alpha-tocopherol, D-alpha-tocopherol acetate, DL alpha-tocopherol acetate and D-alpha-tocopherol succinate.

  It is also possible to use water-soluble vitamins; among these, mention may be made of B vitamins, in particular vitamin B1 in the form of, for example, thiamine hydrochloride or thiamine mononitrate, vitamin B2 in the form, for example, of riboflavin or sodium riboflavin-5'phosphate, vitamin B6. in the form, for example, of pyridoxine hydrochloride or of pyridoxine-5'-phosphate, vitamin B8 in the form of, for example, biotin, vitamin B12 in the form, for example, of cyanocobalamin or of hydroxycobalamin, but also vitamin PP or niacin in the form of for example, nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) or nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate NADP or nicotinic acid or nicotinamide or nyacitine, or vitamin C in the form of, for example, L-ascorbic acid, sodium L-ascorbate, L - calcium ascorbate, potassium L-ascorbate or L-ascorbyl 6-palmitate.

  Preferably, the non-essential micronutrient will be chosen from polyphenols, in particular catechins, theaflavin, nobiletin, resveratrol, glucosylated resveratrol, genistein, daidzein, daidzin, genistin, R carotene and lycopene. lutein, zeaxanthin, apigenin and mixtures thereof in all proportions.

  Theaflavins are flavanols of black tea and oolong tea which in particular has a benztropolone structure the general structure is described by GR Beecher in J Nutr 2003 133 3248s-3254s.

  Nobiletin is a polymethoxyflavone (3 ', 4', 5,6,7,8-hexamethoxyflavone) isolated from fruits Citrus depressa The micronutrients adapted to the implementation of the invention should be compatible with the formulations of the administration devices transdermal. According to one embodiment of the invention, these micronutrients will have good physico-chemical stability, that is to say do not exhibit degradation of their structure and / or their properties, especially after exposure to air or in moderate light.

  However, according to another embodiment, the adapted micronutrients do not necessarily have good physico-chemical stability. For example, carotenoids and certain light-sensitive vitamins that could not be applied topically to the sun-exposed areas could advantageously be used according to the invention. Preferably, the active micronutrients will be little or no metabolized at the cutaneous level, but it will be possible to use a precursor form which will be metabolized in the active form at the time of the penetration or in the circulation.

  According to one aspect of the invention, the micronutrient will be present in the composition of the transdermal patch in purified form, whether of natural origin and obtained by extraction, generally from a plant, or from synthetic origin.

  In another aspect, the micronutrient (s) present in the composition will be in the form of a natural extract, in particular a plant or algae extract, containing it. Extracts suitable for the implementation of the invention are extracts titrated in active principle such as extracts of plants of the genus Camellia (also known as Theaceae); this genus comprises at least 80 species, among which mention may be made of Camellia cuspidata, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Camellia reticulata, Camellia saluensis or Camellia sinensis. It will include green tea extracts, guaranteed content of catechins and antioxidants, but also extracts of black or white tea, hibiscus extracts also called pink tea; in a nonlimiting manner, mention may also be made of extracts of Vitis vinifera and in particular extracts of grape seed titrated with polyphenols, fruit extracts such as, for example, extracts of cherry, lemon, orange, melon, watermelon, apple, banana, kiwi, cocoa extracts, including cocoa bean shell, soy extracts, tomato paste extracts, garlic extracts, onion, squash, eggplant, rhubarb and edible flowers (pink, pansy, geranium ), herbal teas and teas, edible oils, plant extracts selected from linden, chamomile, chrysanthemum, zucchini flower and orange blossom, rosemary, blueberry, blackberry (Morinda citrifolia) L.).

  For example, a plant of the genus Vaccinium is used. Dry fruits are crushed and an ethanolic extraction (95% Ethanol) is obtained: obtaining a colored solution. Malvidin 3galactoside, delphinidin 3-galactoside, delphinidin 3-arabinoside, petunidin 3-galactoside, petunidin 3-arabinoside, and malvidin 3arabinoside may be titrated with certain anthocyanins. The ethanol is then evaporated to obtain the powder to formulate in patch.

  As rosemary extract, a plant of the genus Rosmarinus is used. The whole plant (or some leaf parts, root stems or undifferentiated cells) is ground in water at room temperature. The remaining solid particles are removed (decantation, centrifugation, filtration). The solution is sterilized by ultrafiltration at 0.22 μm. Another method is to sterilize by boiling the plant meal and then removing the solid particles. It can then lyophilize.

  As a blackberry extract, an extract obtained from a Tahitian Noni (R) Polynesian plant "purchased from Morinda, Inc. can be used. Dried fruits are ground and an ethanol extraction (95% Ethanol) is obtained. a colored solution The ethanol is then evaporated to obtain the powder to formulate in patch.

  It is also possible according to the invention to use a plant extract enriched in polyphenol such as those prepared from vegetable sprouts, mung bean (Vigna radiata) by Kalidas Shetty et al. This type of preparation from natural food by microwave, it enriches polyphenolic fraction and bacterially sterilizes the extract that becomes applicable in fact on the skin; the resulting soup is filtered at 0.22 pm, it is dehydrated (freeze-drying) to put the powder in a patch.

  It is possible in particular to use alcoholic, hydroalcoholic or organic extracts, aqueous extracts. The total extracts are obtained by grinding the plant or the portion of the plant concerned according to the type of polyphenol whose extract is to be enriched, such as orange peel to obtain nobiletin, then recovery of all the ground material, optionally followed by partial removal of large insoluble particles.

  Those skilled in the art will adapt the amounts of micronutrients or food extracts containing them according to the desired effect, which may vary in particular from 0.001 to 30% relative to the weight of the composition. As an indication, it will be possible to use a cocoa powder, or a commercial tomato paste at concentrations of 0.1 to 10% relative to the total weight of the composition. In the case of a rosemary extract, the concentrations commonly used will generally be less than or equal to 20%, but greater than or equal to 0.1%, relative to the total weight of the composition. The use of plant extracts is particularly advantageous since it avoids the administration of a chemical molecule but involves only natural compounds, in particular natural plant food extracts, which can be fully guaranteed safety due to their daily ingestion. It is often the combination of a mixture of nutritional compounds that provides the best result This is made possible by this mode of administration which ensures a good diffusion in the general circulation and allows the assets to reach the dermis and target cells without degradation by digestive enzymes.

  The method according to the invention thus makes it possible to obtain levels of active substances which are sufficient to observe an effect without resorting to large doses of product; in addition, the blood concentrations are maintained by the gradual release of micronutrients released from the transdermal device, the latter can remain in place for several hours or even days.

  Advantageously, the transdermal device will comprise a combination of micronutrients as defined above, in particular at least two micronutrients, especially at least two non-essential micronutrients. The cosmetic treatment method according to the invention will be particularly a method intended to prevent undesirable changes in the aesthetic appearance of the skin or integuments, by jointly obtaining a general nutritive effect and a local effect, by maintaining physiological levels of the skin. nutrients that may have an effect on the skin or superficial body growths.

  According to yet another aspect of the invention, the cosmetic treatment method makes it possible to treat, in a preventive and / or curative manner, the cutaneous signs of aging whether chronobiological or photoinduced, particularly the thinning of the dermis and / or the degradation. collagen fibers. The method also makes it possible to prevent or reduce the loss of firmness of the skin related to aging, more particularly to treat, in a preventive or curative manner, the flaccid and / or wrinkled skin, and / or to stimulate the firming of the skin.

  For example, at menopause, the main changes in the dermis are a decrease in collagen level and dermal thickness. This leads to a thinning of the skin and / or mucous membranes in the menopausal woman. The woman feels a sensation of "dry skin" or skin that pulls and there is an accentuation of fine lines and wrinkles. The skin has a rough appearance on palpation. Finally the skin has a reduced flexibility.

  Skin signs of aging means any changes in the appearance of the skin due to aging whether chronobiological and / or photo-induced, such as fine lines and wrinkles, wilted skin, soft skin, skin thin, dull skin, lack of elasticity and / or tone of the skin, but also any internal changes in the skin that do not systematically result in a modified external appearance, such as any internal damage of skin, especially collagen fibers, resulting from exposure to ultraviolet radiation, or protein glycation, which can result in thinning of the dermis.

  The cosmetic process may according to one aspect of the invention be intended to promote the smoothing of the skin and / or to stretch the skin.

  Micronutrients adapted to the implementation of this process are in particular isoflavones such as genistein or daidzein, or compounds having an anti-radical activity such as catechins.

  The cosmetic treatment method of the invention will be applied in a preventive or curative manner, to a mammal, in particular a human being whose nutritional equilibrium risks being disturbed, in particular during certain physiological periods of life, during modifications of the pace of life leading to stress or fatigue, in anticipation of exposure to pollution or ultraviolet radiation. The transdermal patch will be applied according to the invention to an area of the skin coating that is not, at least in part, identical to the region where the effects are sought. This is an essential difference from the methods employing transdermal delivery systems used heretofore, which only target activity at the point of application.

  The transdermal patch will thus be applied to any area having sufficient vascularization, especially on parts of the face, behind the ear, on the shoulder, on the abdominal region or on the arms. It can be kept in place between 30 minutes and several days, including one to eight hours: it can for example leave it up one night, or for 24 hours. The application will be renewed, possibly leaving a window without application of transdermal device. The method will of course be adapted by those skilled in the art depending on the active compounds present in the composition, their diffusion rate and the type of transdermal delivery system used, as well as plasma levels corresponding to optimal activity in the zones. targeted body.

  The size and shape of the device or transdermal delivery system useful according to the invention will be adapted by those skilled in the art but as an indication, the device, solid or semi-solid, will generally have a surface less than or equal to 25 cm 2, in particular from 0.25 cm 2 to 20 cm 2, preferably greater than or equal to 3 cm 2; devices adapted to the invention may for example have a surface of 5 to 15 cm 2.

  The invention also relates to the use of at least one micronutrient as defined above, for the preparation of a transdermal delivery device, or a composition that can be integrated into a transdermal device intended to prevent and / or delay the alterations of the skin, scalp and / or integuments.

  The compositions are for cosmetic or dermatological use.

  By "transdermal device", or transdermal delivery system in the sense of the invention is meant any system allowing active or passive release of the active substance by transdermy, ie allowing its transfer through the skin to the systemic general circulation. Among the transdermal devices applicable to the invention, there may be mentioned for example: patches, that is to say any asset delivery system having a composite structure in the form of layers which, by application to the skin, ensures the release of the active product by transdermy. For example: E controlled release patches with a hydrophobic polymeric matrix as described for example in FR 2 738 744; É tank-type patches containing a reservoir of active substance, a diffusion membrane and an adhesive layer E magnetic field effect patches promoting the penetration of the active ingredients in the skin as described for example in FR 2 791 750; É patches with optimized adhesion, comprising a hydrophobic polymer layer fixed on a support layer and containing particles of active compound, oil particles and particles of a water-absorbing agent as described for example in FR 2 761 889 ; É gels patches with high water content, hydrogel type, especially based on at least one hydrocolloid and / or polysaccharides, proteins, polyacrylamide, polyacrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid and starch , polyvinylpyrrolidone or polyvinyl acid derivatives, and having a contact adhesion, similar to that resulting from a suction effect.

  Hydrophobic patch gels, also called organogels or oleogels based on polyethylene, silicones or copolymers of styrene and isoprene or copolymers of styrene and butadiene. These systems have the advantage of being able to contain high proportions of hydrophobic compounds. Segmented polyurethane-based patch (SPUG) gels whose lipophilic or hydrophilic character can be modified by modification of the polyoxyethylenated chains (Y. Shikinami, Adhesive polymer gels). for medical uses, Kagaku To Tokyo, 67 (4), 141-150, 1993) of the anti-wrinkle pellet sheets or pellets described in FR 2 512 651 or FR 2 538 247; composite films as described in EP-A-0 285 563; advantageously, it will be possible to use a composite film comprising a reservoir layer constituted by a matrix formed of a silicone polymer inside which are arranged inclusions constituted by the gelled aqueous active phase by virtue of at least one gelling agent (FR 2 650,747 L'Oreal); Thin solid films based on natural or synthetic polymers that are applied to the previously wet skin dissolve in situ; such films are described in patent application WO 02/053197, WO 02/05789 Films containing a film-forming agent and a hydrophilic adhesive polymer, also called patch-non-patch, as described in the patent WO 02 / 30402 - Films obtained by spraying film-forming powders, as described in FR0115069, polymer-based compositions having adhesive properties capable of forming a film which is removed after drying (EP-0 514 760, EP- 0 826 364) or an elastic and foldable solid layer removed by applying a cloth or an adhesive plastic (WO93 / 05893); or gels or pastes ("masks of beauty") which, after application to the face, dry to give a film that is removed by washing, cleaning or tearing; we usually talk about 'varnish patch' or 'peel-patch'.

  But we also mean all systems increasing percutaneous absorption by an active mechanism (R. Prausnitz et al., Current status and future potential of transdermal drug delivery, Nature Rev., vol 3, 115-124, 2004): É Systems pressure injection or needle-less injection (Burkoth TL et al., Transdermal 20 and Transmucosal Powdered Delivery., Crit Rev Ther Drug Carrier System 1999; 16 (4): 331-84 E Ultrasound Use: Sonophoresis and Phonophoresis (Joshi A. and Raje J., Sonicated transdermal drug transport, J. Control Release, 83 (1), 13-22, 2002) E Use of electric currents: lontophoresis, electroporation, microfrequency current (JE River Heit TM, Electrically-Assisted Transdermal Drug Delivery, Pharm.Res., 14 (6), 687-697, 1997) (US Patent 6,148,232, WO 03/035167) Magnetic wave uptake: magnetophoresis (Murthy SN, Magnetophoresis: year transdermal drug diffusion, Pharmazie 1999 May; 54 (5): 377-9) Use of micro-needles (Mc Allister, D.V. et al., Microfabricated microneedles for gene and drug delivery, Annu. Rev. Biomed. Eng., 2, 289-313, 2000) (US Pat. No. 6,451,240) These transdermal delivery systems will be formulated according to techniques known to those skilled in the art to ensure the rate and rate of diffusion adapted to the micronutrients present in the present invention. the composition.

  In particular, they may contain penetration accelerators, especially chosen from non-cyclic mono- and di-alcohols, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, isopropyl myristate, fatty acids, phospholipids, terpenes, azone and derivatives, propylene glycol and glycol derivatives, cyclodextrins, octylsalicylate, cyclopentadecanolide, polysorbates, polyvinylpyrrolidone and derivatives, this list not being limiting.

  The transdermal delivery systems will contain the excipients suitable for their formulation known to those skilled in the art and in particular at least one compound chosen from gelling agents, adhesive polymers, stabilizers, dyes, pigments, fillers, solvents, ion ...

  The adhesive matrix may in particular comprise one or more natural or synthetic hydrophilic polymers capable of gelling in the presence of water and of having an adhesive power. These hydrophilic polymers will preferably be chosen from acrylic acid, its derivatives and copolymers and will be present in a proportion of between 5 and 60% of the adhesive matrix, preferably between 10 and 40%. The adhesive matrix may, in some embodiments, contain one or more other hydrocolloids.

  The hydrocolloid (s) used may for example be chosen from the group formed by: gellan gum; cellulose or its derivatives such as carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose, as well as modified celluloses, in particular by grafting of an alkyl group; algae extracts such as agar-agar, carrageenans, alginates; seed extracts such as locust bean gum, guar gum, guar gums modified in particular by alkyl group grafting; exudates from plants such as gum arabic, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, gatty gum; exudates of microorganisms such as xanthan gum; fruit extracts such as pectins; silicon derivatives such as synthetic hectorites such as the "Laponite RD and RDS" products sold by the company WAVERLY, aluminum and magnesium silicates, such as the product "Veegum" sold by the company Vanderbilt, type POLYCARE, marketed by Rhone-Poulenc.

or a mixture of these compounds.

  These agents will be chosen according to their own properties in order to modulate the adhesion and the viscosity of the matrix. The latter may also contain moisturizing agents, such as glycerol, in a proportion of 0.1 to 30%, preferably 1 to 20%. In addition, the adhesive matrix may comprise one or more excipients chosen from preservatives, dyes, perfumes, stabilizers and polymerization initiators. The adhesive matrix may be laminated on a more or less flexible, non-soluble support consisting of a woven or non-woven support or a support of plastic material preferably chosen from polyurethane (marketed for example under the trademarks BAYDUR, DALTOFLEX, UROFLEX, HYPERLAST), thermoplastic elastomer polyurethane (DESMOPAN, ESTANE, LASTANE, TEXIN), thermoplastic elastomer SBS (styrene-butadiene-styrene) (CARIFLEX, KRATON, SOLPRENE), thermoplastic elastomer SEBS (Styrene-ethylene-butylene-styrene) (KRATON), EVA (ethylene-vinyl acetate) (ELVAX, ESCORENE, OPTENE), thermoplastic elastomer coether ester (CEE TPE) (ARNITEL, HYTREL, RITEFLEX), polyethylenes, polypropylenes, silicones.

  The structure of the insoluble carrier can either be breathable or be generally occlusive, i.e. made of air impermeable material and / or water vapor, so as to facilitate the penetration of the active ingredient. in the epidermis.

  The adhesive matrix may further comprise one or more active agents chosen from the following list: laponite, surfactants, collagen, salicylic acid, aromatic essential oils, colorants, anti-oxidants, anti-free radicals, moisturizers, depigmenting agents, liporegulators, anti-acne, anti Seborrhoeic, anti-aging, softening, anti-wrinkle, keratolitic, anti-inflammatory, refreshing, healing, vascular protective, anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, antiperspirant, deodorant, skin conditioning, insensitizing, immunomodulating and nourishing.

  Thus, the asset delivery system according to the invention may be a patch of conventional structure comprising several successive layers in the following order: a first layer, formed of the insoluble support; a second layer, called adhesive matrix, fixed on the support layer and containing the micronutrient, this layer coming directly into contact with the skin; finally, optionally, a peelable protective layer, hermetically covering the polymer layer, so as to protect it from any external contamination during the storage time prior to the use of the patch.

  The support layer not only serves to support the polymer layer, but also to serve as a protective coating thereof. It may be of the same size as the polymer layer or extend beyond the polymer layer and outwards, so as to possibly receive adhesive means disposed at the periphery of the polymer layer.

  In another version of the invention, the adhesive matrix will be composed of synthetic amphiphilic polymers such as, for example, acrylic / vinyl, methacrylic / vinyl copolymers, substituted acrylamides, styrene and isoprene copolymers, styrene and butadiene copolymers. segmented polyurethanes or else polydimethylsiloxanes (BIO-PSA from DOW-CORNING). The micronutrient (s) are incorporated directly into the adhesive matrix. The exact composition of the adhesive matrix and the choice of polymer (s) will depend on the physicochemical properties of the micronutrient (s) and on the desired diffusion kinetics.

  As an indication, the composition of the patch may comprise, for example, ethylene vinyl acetate copolymers at concentrations ranging from 50 to 80%, an adhesive polyisobutylene at concentrations ranging from 1 to 10%, and sodium polyacrylate at concentrations of 5 to 15%. %, 5 to 10% polyacrylic acid, 1 to 2% tartaric acid, 2 to 3% Tween 80, 5 to 10% carboxymethyl cellulose and / or 10 to 30% glycerin; all of these percentages are expressed in relation to the total weight of the composition and include the limits of the mentioned interval.

  The transdermal delivery device adapted to the implementation of the process according to the invention may in particular be a patch chosen from controlled release patches, reservoir patches, magnetic field effect patches, hydrocolloid-based patch gels. oily patch gels and tank-type composite films; the device can thus contain extracts of Vitis vinifera titrated with resveratrol and glucosylated resveratrol, at a concentration of between 0.001 and 10 g / cm3 of composition, and / or extracts of black tea or oolong titrated with theaflavin.for a final concentration in this micronutrient of 0.001 to 10 g / cm3.

  Other advantages of the invention will appear on reading the examples which follow.

  Example 1: Cocoa powder formulations ** 4% Tomato paste * 3% DURO-TAK 36-6172 *** 82% Dimethicone 1% * Tomato paste Heinz ** Van Houten *** Pressure-sensitive adhesive

Example 2

  Rosemary extract * Sodium polyacrylate Polyacrylic acid Tartaric acid Tween 80 Glycerin Methylparaben Propylparaben Water * obtained by grinding whole plant in water at room temperature, removing remaining solid particles and sterilizing by ultrafiltration at 0.22 m.

Example 3

  Wild Blueberry Extract * 1% DURO-TAK 87-2979 ** 85% Glycerine 5% Dimethicone 9% * Blueberry Extract Herbasol SA Cosmetochem International Ltd. Sennweidstrasse 44/46 CH-6312 Steinhausen / ZG.

** pressure-sensitive adhesive

Example 4

  5% 5% 2% 3% 30% 0.5% 0.5% 100% qsp 1% Red wine extract (20% titrated OPC) 1% Sodium polyacrylate 5% Polyacrylic acid 5% Tartaric acid 2% Tween 80 3% Carboxymethylcellulose 10% Glycerine 30% Water qs 100%

Claims (15)

  1. Cosmetic treatment method for preventing and / or delaying and / or limiting the signs of aging of the skin, mucous membranes or superficial body growths, characterized in that it is applied to an area of the skin, mucous membranes or scalp a transdermal delivery system, the composition of said transdermal system containing at least one non-essential micronutrient.   2. Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 1, characterized in that the transdermal delivery system is applied in a zone at least partially distant from that in which the signs of aging are treated.   3. Cosmetic treatment method according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the molecular weight of the micronutrient is less than or equal to 800.   4. Method according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the partition coefficient P of the micronutrient between octanol and water is such that log P is greater than or equal to -2.   5. Method according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the partition coefficient P of the micronutrient between octanol and water is such that log P is less than or equal to 5.   6. Cosmetic treatment process according to at least one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that at least one non-essential micronutrient is chosen from the group comprising flavonols, flavanols, proanthocyanydines, flavanones and isoflavones. flavonoids, isoflavonoids, stilbenes, their derivatives and the like.   7. Cosmetic treatment process according to at least one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that at least one micronutrient is chosen from catechins, theaflavin, nobiletin, resveratrol, glycosylated derivatives of resveratrol, 8 carotene, lycopene, lutein, zeaxanthin, apigenin.   8. Cosmetic treatment process according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the micronutrient is present in the composition in the form of a plant extract containing it.   9. A cosmetic treatment method according to at least one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it is a method for preventing and / or delaying the signs of chronobiological aging and / or photoinduced.   10. Cosmetic treatment method according to at least one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the transdermal delivery device is in the form of patch, sheets, composite film or solid film.   11. The cosmetic treatment method according to at least one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the transdermal delivery device further contains at least one penetration accelerator compound.   12. Cosmetic treatment process according to at least one of Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the penetration accelerator compound is chosen from the group consisting of non-cyclic mono- and di-alcohols, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, isopropyl myristate, fatty acids, phospholipids, terpenes, azos and derivatives, propylene glycol and glycolic derivatives, cyclodextrins, octylsalicylate, cyclopentadecanolide, polysorbates, polyvinylpyrrolidone and derivatives.   13. The method of cosmetic treatment according to at least one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the transdermal device further contains at least one compound selected from gelling agents, adhesive polymers, stabilizers, dyes, pigments, fillers, solvents, ions ...   14. Use of at least one micronutriment as defined in at least one of claims 1 to 8, for the preparation of a transdermal delivery device for preventing and / or delaying alterations due to aging of the skin, scalp and / or skin appendages.   15. Transdermal delivery device for use in the method according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it is a patch selected from controlled release patches, reservoir patches, magnetic field effect gels, hydrocolloid-based patch gels, oily patch gels and tank-type composite films, and in that it contains theaflavin at a concentration of 0.001 to 10 g / cm3 of composition.