FR2853529A1 - Vitalising shampoo for dry, tired or weakened hair contains a mixture of amino-acids of vegetable origin identical with those in human hair, plus quat. cationic honey derivative, vitamin E acetate and surfactants - Google Patents

Abstract

Detergent hair shampoo comprising an aqueous dispersion which contains a combination of (a) a mixture of free amino-acids of vegetable origin identical with those in human hair, (b) a quaternary cationic derivative of natural honey and (c) vitamin E acetate in addition to the conventional anionic surfactant(s) (d) and amphoteric surfactant(s) (e).

Description

VITALIZING HAIR SHAMPOO

  The present invention relates generally to a detergent hair composition, in the form of a shampoo, more particularly suitable for so-called dry, tired, or anemic hair.

  In particular, the invention relates to a composition, in aqueous dispersion, comprising the combination of a mixture of free amino acids, of plant origin, identical to the amino acids present in human hair, of a cationic derivative. quaternary of natural honey, vitamin E acetate and, as cleaning agents, at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant.

  For hair cleaning, the use of detergent hair compositions containing anionic surfactants alone or mixed with amphoteric surfactants is common.

  However, it is found that, in the case of dry, tired or anemic hair, these compositions leave the hair dull after washing and drying, rough to the touch, with little flexibility and more static electricity which makes it difficult to disentangle . To improve the cosmetic properties of these compositions, it is known that the addition of conditioning agents such as cationic polymers and / or non-volatile, water-insoluble silicones and / or derivatives of these silicones to these compositions allows to obtain a smoother condition and a softer feel of the hair after washing.

  These compositions do not, however, give complete satisfaction, often being accompanied by undesirable effects such as a weighing down of the hair after several applications, a cottony feel and insufficient gloss. The invention therefore consists in providing a shampoo which confers on dry, tired or anemic hair properties of hold, shine, softness and flexibility that are really improved.

  Thus according to the invention, a new detergent hair composition is proposed, comprising in particular the association, in aqueous dispersion, of a mixture of free amino acids, of plant origin, identical to the amino acids present in human hair, of a quaternary cationic derivative of honey 10 and of vitamin E acetate. The use of this association in a support such as a shampoo, tested on many subjects having dry, tired or anemic hair, made it possible to note rapidly obtaining more supple, shiny hair with a soft feel, with better hold and easier to disentangle, properties significantly improved compared to those obtained with one or other of the components of this combination used alone.

  The mixture of amino acids of the present invention consists of free amino acids, of vegetable origin, identical to the amino acids present in the hair: Glutamic acid, Arginine, Proline, Aspartic acid, Leucine, Phenylalanine, Serine , Lysine, Glycine, Valine, Tyrosine, IsoLeucine, Alanine, Threonine, Histidine, Methionine, Cystine.

  These amino acids come from the hydrolysis of wheat germ, soybean and corn proteins. Their low molecular weight allows them to penetrate the hair, increasing its capacity to retain water and giving it more shine, flexibility and hold.

  According to the invention, the average composition of the mixture of these amino acids, expressed in% by weight, is as follows 35 - Glutamic acid: between 20 and 35% - Arginine: between 15 and 20% - Proline: - Aspartic acid: - Leucine: - Phenylalanine: - Serine: - Lysine: - Glycine: - Valine: - Tyrosine: Iso-Leucine: - Alanine: - Threonine: - Histidine: - Methionine: 15 Cystine: between enters between enters between enters between enters between between between 8 and 14% 7 and 12% 3 and 6% 3 and 5% 3 and 5% 3 and 4.5% 2 and 4% 2 and 4% 2 and 4% 1.5 and 3% 1, 5 and 3% 1.5 and 3% 1 and 2% 0.5 and 1.5% 0.2 and 0.8% A preferred composition of this mixture is as follows: Glutamic acid: 30% 20 - Arginine: 18 % - Proline: 10% - Aspartic Acid: 9% - Leucine: 5% - Phenylalanine: 4% - Serine: 4% - Lysine: 3.5% - Glycine: 2.75% - Valine: 2.75% - Tyrosine : 2.5% - Iso-Leucine: 2% Alanine: 1.85% - Threonine: 1.85% - Histidine: 1.5% - Methionine: 0.9% Cystine: 0.4% The mixture of acids free amino he vegetable origin described above is used in 25% aqueous solution, preferably in an amount between 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More advantageously, this quantity is between 2% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This mixture is in the form of an amber colored liquid.

  Natural honey is known for its softening and moisturizing cosmetic properties. Limited due to the viscous and sticky consistency of this material, these properties are highly potentiated when the honey is modified by reaction with a quaternary derivative of low molecular weight. The honey derivative thus obtained is a liquid of low viscosity, with a pleasant touch when applied to the hair. Studies under the electron microscope have made it possible to demonstrate not only a high substantivity of this type of derivative with respect to the hair, but also an excellent capacity for penetration into the hair fiber contributing to the balance of the hydration of the hair. Thanks to its softening properties, it also contributes to a better shine of the hair, more particularly noticeable in the case of dry or damaged hair. Studies have also shown the ability of this derivative to repair the split ends of hair.

  As the quaternary cationic derivative of natural honey, it is possible to use, for example, the product sold under the name HONEYQUAT 50 by the company ARCH CHEMICALS. The quaternary cationic derivative of honey is preferably used in an amount of between 0.5% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More advantageously, this amount is between 1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Vitamin E and its derivatives have cosmetic properties known as antioxidants. It has a proven protective action against ultraviolet radiation which can greatly damage exposed hair. Its anti5 radical action makes it possible to prevent radical chain oxidation reactions, responsible for the degradation of the hair.

  In addition, by limiting the peroxidation of the sebum lipids, it reduces the irritation phenomena of the scalp.

  The present invention preferably uses a vitamin E derivative, vitamin E acetate, in an amount between 0.1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More advantageously, this amount is between 0.3% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  According to a preferred arrangement of the invention, the cleaning agents consist of one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants: - The anionic surfactants are more particularly the sodium, ammonium and magnesium salts or amino alcohols of alkyl ether sulfates, alkylarylsarcosinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylarylethersulfates and alkylamidoethersulfates.

  - The amphoteric surfactants are of the alkylbetaine, sulfobetaine, alkylamidoalkylbetaine or alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaine type.

  Relative to the total weight of the composition, - the anionic surfactants represent from 1 to 50% by weight and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight - the amphoteric surfactants represent from 1 to 30% by weight and preferably , from 5 to 15% by weight.

  The detergent composition according to the invention can also contain all the components usually encountered in the formulation of shampoos, such as, for example, thickeners, softeners, foam modifiers, vitamins, conditioners, colorants, preservatives and perfumes. .

  The invention is illustrated by the following nonlimiting example.

EXAMPLE

  A vitalizing shampoo for dry, tired or anemic hair is prepared according to the following formula (the percentages indicated are by weight): - Ammonium lauryl ether sulfate - Sodium lauroylsarcosinate 20 - Cocamidopropyl Betaine - Cationary quaternary derivative of honey (HONEYQUAT 50) - Mixture of free amino acids of vegetable origin, according to the preferred composition of the invention - Cocoamidopropyl dimethylamine oxide - Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides - Vitamin E acetate - Guar gum cationic 30 - Perfume - Citric acid - Preservative, solution 10% aqueous - Demineralized Water The pH of this shampoo is adjusted triethanolamine 15% 8% 7% 3% 2.5% 2.5% 2% 2% 1% 0.5% 0.1% 0.1% qs 100% at pH 6.0 by addition of The cosmetic performances of this shampoo were tested on dry, tired, soft or anemic hair, in comparison with a control shampoo formulated according to the preceding example, without adding the mixture of 'amino acids, of quaternary cationic derivative of natural honey or of vitamin E acetate. They were applied to damp hair, emulsified and rinsed with lukewarm water after three minutes of breaks. After drying, it was found that the hair treated with the shampoo of the example was softer, more shiny, softer to the touch and had more workability than that treated with the control shampoo.

Claims (11)

  1- Detergent hair composition, in the form of a shampoo, characterized in that it comprises the association, in aqueous dispersion, of a mixture of free amino acids, of plant origin, identical to the amino acids present in human hair, a cationic quaternary derivative of natural honey, vitamin E acetate, at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant.   2- Shampoo according to claim 1, characterized in that the mixture of free amino acids of vegetable origin is composed in% by weight of the following amino acids - Glutamic acid: - Arginine: Proline: - Aspartic acid: - Leucine: - Phenylalanine: - Serine: Lysine: - Glycine: - Valine: - Tyrosine: - Iso-Leucine: - Alanine: Threonine: - Histidine: 30 - Methionine: - Cystine: between enters between enters between enters between enters between between between between and 35% 15 and 20% 8 and 14% 7 and 12% 3 and 6% 3 and 5% 3 and 5% 3 and 4.5% 2 and 4% 2 and 4% 2 and 4% 1 , 5 and 3% 1.5 and 3% 1.5 and 3% 1 and 2% 0.5 and 1.5% 0.2 and 0.8% 3- Shampoo according to claim 1 or 2, characterized by fact that the mixture of free amino acids of plant origin 35 is composed in% by weight of the following amino acids - Glutamic acid: 30% - Arginine: 18% - Proline: 10% - Aspartic acid: 9% Leucine: 5% - Phenylalanine: 4% - Serine: 4% - Lysine: 3.5% - Glycine : 2.75% - Valine: 2.75% - Tyrosine: 2.5% - Iso-Leucine: 2% - Alanine: 1.85% - Threonine: 1.85% - Histidine: 1.5% - Methionine: 0.9% - Cystine: 0.4% 4Shampoo according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises from 1% to 10% of an aqueous solution at 25% of this mixture of amino acids of vegetable origin, relative to the total weight of the composition.   5- Shampoo according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises from 2% to 5% of one. 25% aqueous solution of this mixture of amino acids of vegetable origin, relative to the total weight of the composition.   6- Shampoo according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises from 0.5% to 10% by weight of a quaternary cationic derivative of natural honey, relative to the total weight of the composition.   7- Shampoo according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it comprises from 1% to 5% by weight of a quaternary cationic derivative of natural honey, relative to the total weight of the composition.   8- Shampoo according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises from 0.1% to 5% by weight of vitamin E acetate, relative to the total weight of the composition.   9- Shampoo according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it comprises from 0.3% to 3% by weight of vitamin E acetate, relative to the total weight of the composition.   10- Shampoo according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises, as cleaning agents, at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant.   11 - Shampoo according to characterized in that it 15 anionic surfactants, composition.   one of claims 1 to comprises from 1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of 8, of the 12 - Shampoo according to characterized in that it 20 anionic surfactants, composition.   13 - Shampoo according to characterized in that it 25 amphoteric surfactants, composition.   14 - Shampoo according to characterized in that it 30 amphoteric surfactants, composition.   one of claims 1 to comprises from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of 9, from the one of claims 1 to 10, comprises from 1% to 30% by weight of relative to the total weight of one of claims 1 to 11, comprises from 5% to 15% by weight of relative to the total weight of the 15- Use of the shampoo defined according to one of claims 1 to 12 for cleaning and caring for dry, tired or anemic hair.