FR2788689A1 - Cosmetic composition for treating hair, e.g. shampoo or pre-brushing composition, contains combination of wax and ceramide compound having synergistic hair protective effect - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular human hair, comprising at least one wax having a melting point of between 70 and 85 ° C and of which at least 80% of the carbon chains have more than 40 carbon atoms and at least one ceramide-type compound as well as to the treatment process using this composition.

Description

<Desc / Clms Page number 1>

COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE WAX AND
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratinous substances such as the hair, comprising at least one particular wax and at least one ceramide-type compound as well as to the non-ionic treatment method. -therapeutic using this composition.

Capillary formulations are already known in the state of the art for treating hair damaged by bad weather or physical (blow-dry, combing, etc.) or chemical (coloring, permanent ...) hair treatments. Various waxes have already been used for this purpose, which have the advantage of improving the cosmetic properties, inter alia, the disentangling and the softness of the wet and dried hair, and also of protecting the hair fibers from these aggressions. However, these waxes still have insufficient properties and tend, for example, to make the hair heavier and more difficult when treatments are superimposed.

Ceramides or glycoceramides which have already been associated with cholesterol esters for the purpose of protecting the hair fiber are also known. However, the hair application of these latter compositions or ceramides alone leads to insufficient cosmetic performance, both on wet hair and on dried hair.

Moreover, during mechanical treatments such as blow drying, hair is damaged by the heat of the dryer and the passage of the brush in the hair to shape the hair.

Many hair is thus broken during a blow-dry. So we search compositions to protect the hair of this case during these attacks.

Now, the Applicant has surprisingly discovered that by using compositions containing a particular wax in combination with

<Desc / Clms Page number 2>

 Ceramide type, there was a significant improvement in cosmetic performance on both wet hair and dried hair.

The Applicant has found in particular that the combination has a synergistic effect which is not simply the addition of the properties of the two components.

In particular, a very good effect of protection against breakage of the hair during blow-dry was obtained, superior to that obtained either with the wax alone or with the ceramide-type compound alone.

The disentangling properties (= ease of combing) are also superior to those of a composition containing only the ceramide-type compound or the wax.

This discovery is the basis of the present invention.

The subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition, intended for the treatment of keratinous substances, in particular the hair, characterized in that it contains in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one wax having a melting point of between 70 and 85 ° C. and of which at least 80% of the carbon chains have more than 40 carbon atoms and at least one ceramide-type compound.

The subject of the invention is also the use of the composition defined above for protecting keratinous substances, in particular the hair, against physical or chemical aggressions and in particular with respect to blow-dryings.

These compositions also make it possible to improve the cosmetic properties, in particular the smoothness and the smoothness of the hair.

According to the present invention, the term "ceramide-type compound" means ceramides and / or glycoceramides and / or pseudoceramides and / or neoceramides, natural or synthetic.

<Desc / Clms Page number 3>

Ceramide-type compounds are described, for example, in patent applications DE4424530, DE4424533, DE4402929, DE4420736, WO95 / 23807, WO94 / 07844, EP-A-0646572, WO95 / 16665, FR-2 673 179, EP-A- 0227994 and WO 94/07844, WO94 / 24097, WO94 / 10131, the teachings of which are hereby incorporated by reference.

dans laquelle : - R1 désigne : - soit un radical hydrocarboné, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, en C1-C50, de préférence en C5-C50, ce radical pouvant être substitué par un ou plusieurs groupements hydroxyle éventuellement estérifié par un acide R7COOH, R7 étant un radical hydrocarboné, saturé ou insaturé, linéaire ou ramifié, éventuellement mono ou polyhydroxylé, en C1-C35, le ou les hydroxyles du radical R7 pouvant être estérifié par un acide gras saturé ou insaturé, linéaire ou ramifié, éventuellement mono ou polyhydroxylé, en C1-C35; - soit un radical R"-(NR-CO)-R', R désigne un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical hydrocarboné C1-C20 mono ou polyhydroxylé, préférentiellement monohydroxylé, R' et R" sont des radicaux hydrocarbonés dont la somme des atomes de carbone est comprise entre 9 et 30, R' étant un radical divalent. The ceramide-type compounds that can be used according to the present invention preferentially correspond to the general formula (I):

in which: - R1 denotes: - either a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C1-C50, preferably C5-C50, this radical may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups optionally esterified with an acid R7COOH R7 is a linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, C1-C35 hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, wherein the hydroxyl radicals of the radical R7 can be esterified with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acid, optionally mono or polyhydroxy, C 1 -C 35; or a radical R "- (NR-CO) -R ', R denotes a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon radical C1-C20 mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably monohydroxylated, R' and R" are hydrocarbon radicals whose sum of carbon atoms is between 9 and 30, R 'being a divalent radical.

 or a radical R8-O-CO- (CH2) p. R8 denotes a C1-C20 hydrocarbon radical, p is an integer ranging from 1 to 12.

R2 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a saccharide type radical, in particular a (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) m or sulphogalactosyl radical, a sulphate or phosphate residue, a phosphorylethylamine radical and a radical;

<Desc / Clms Page number 4>

 phosphorylethylammonium, wherein n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; - R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon radical C1-C33, saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or not, the hydroxyl or hydroxyls which can be esterified with a mineral acid or an acid R7COOH, R7 having the same meanings as above the hydroxyl or hydroxyls which can be etherified with a (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) m, sulphogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium radical, R3 also possibly being substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl radicals; preferably, R3 denotes a C15-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl radical, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified with a C16-C30 α-hydroxy acid; - R4 denotes a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, a hydrocarbon radical C3-C50, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated or a -CH2-CHOH-CH2-O-R6 radical in which R6 denotes a C10-C26 hydrocarbon radical or an R8-O-CO- (CH2) p radical, R8 denotes a C1-C20 hydrocarbon radical, p is an integer ranging from 1 to 12, - R5 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 hydrocarbon radical, the hydroxyl or hydroxyls being etherified by a (glycosyl) n (galactosyl) m, sulphogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium radical, provided that when R3 and R5 denote hydrogen or when R3 denotes hydrogen and R5 denotes methyl, then R4 denotes a hydrogen atom, a methyl or ethyl radical.

Among the compounds of formula (1), ceramides and / or glycoceramides whose structure is described by DOWNING in Journal of Lipid Research Vol. 35, 2060-2068, 1994, or those described in the French patent application FR-2,673,179, the teachings of which are hereby incorporated by reference.

<Desc / Clms Page number 5>

The ceramide-type compounds that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are the compounds of formula (1) for which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from optionally hydroxylated C 14 -C 22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom; and R3 denotes a linear C11-17 radical optionally hydroxylated and preferably C13-15.

Such compounds are, for example: 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1 3-diol, 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N- [2-hydroxy-palmitoyl] amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl aminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine; 2-N-palmitoylamino-1,3-hexadecane; -diol or mixtures of these compounds.

It is also possible to use specific mixtures such as, for example, mixtures of ceramide (2) and ceramide (s) according to the DOWNING classification.

It is also possible to use the compounds of formula (I) for which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C 12 -C 22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical; and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH = CH- (CH2) 12 -CH3 group.

By way of example, mention may be made of the product consisting of a mixture of glycoceramides sold under the trade name GLYCOCER by the company WAITAKI INTERNATIONAL BIOSCIENCES.

It is also possible to use the compounds of formula (I) described in patent applications EP-A-0227994, EP-A-0 647 617, EP-A-0 736 522 and WO 94/07844.

<Desc / Clms Page number 6>

 Such compounds are, for example, QUESTAMIDE H (bis- (N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl) malonamide) sold by the company QUEST, acid N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- (3-cetyloxy-2hydroxypropyl) amide. cetyl.

N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine described in patent application WO94 / 24097 can also be used.

The concentration of ceramide-type compounds may vary between 0.0001% and 20% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.001 and 10% approximately and even more preferably between 0.005 and 3% by weight.

The waxes which can be used according to the invention preferably have at least 80% by weight of carbon chains comprising from 40 to 65 carbon atoms and preferably more than 95% by weight.

Waxes corresponding to these characteristics include sunflower wax, in particular hydrogenated sunflower wax marketed by the Soetenaey Laboratory whose melting point is approximately 77 C (measured at the KOFLER block), the drop point is about 70 ° C. and which contains more than 95% by weight of carbon chains having from 40 to 65 carbon atoms.

The concentration of wax according to the invention may vary between 0.0001% and 20% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.001 and 10% approximately and even more preferably between 0.005 and 3% by weight. .

The compositions of the invention advantageously also contain at least one surfactant which is generally present in an amount of between approximately 0.1% and 60% by weight, preferably between 3% and 40% and even more preferentially between 5%. and 30%, based on the total weight of the composition.

This surfactant may be chosen from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic or cationic surfactants or mixtures thereof.

<Desc / Clms Page number 7>

 The surfactants that are suitable for the implementation of the present invention are notably the following: (i) Anionic surfactant (s): Their nature is not, in the context of the present invention, of a truly critical nature.

Thus, by way of example of anionic surfactants which may be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (nonlimiting list) of the salts (in particular alkaline salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates; alkylsulfosuccinamates; alkylsulfoacetates; alkyl ether phosphates; acylsarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these various compounds preferably containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group.

Among the anionic surfactants that can still be used, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; acyl lactylates whose acyl radical has 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use weakly anionic surfactants, such as alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts, as well as polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24) alkyl carboxylic ether acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24) aryl ether carboxylic acids, and polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (C6C24) amido ether carboxylates and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof.

Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferred to use, according to the invention, the alkyl sulphate and alkyl ether sulfate salts and their mixtures.

 (ii) Nonionic surfactant (s): Nonionic surfactants are also well-known compounds per se (see in particular in this connection "Handbook of Surfactants" by R. PORTER,

<Desc / Clms Page number 8>

 Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178) and their nature does not, in the context of the present invention, of a critical nature. Thus, they may be chosen in particular from (non-limiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups that can range from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups that can range from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, the condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C 10 -C 14) alkyl amines or oxides of N-acylaminopropylmorpholine. It will be noted that alkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants that fall particularly well within the scope of the present invention.

 (iii) Amphoteric surfactant (s): The amphoteric surface-active agents, the nature of which does not take part in the context of the present invention of a critical nature, may especially be (non-limiting list) derivatives of secondary or tertiary amines aliphatics, wherein the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (eg carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6) alkyl betaines or (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6) alkyl sulfobetaines.

Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name MIRANOL, as described in US Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354, and structures:

<Desc / Clms Page number 9>

 R2 -CONHCH2CH2 -N (R3) (R4) (CH2COO-) (2) in which: R2 denotes an alkyl radical derived from a R2-COOH acid present in the hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical; R3 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R4 a carboxymethyl group; and R5-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (C) (3) wherein: B represents -CH2CH2OX ', C represents - (CH2) z -Y, with z = 1 or 2, X' denotes the group -CH2CH2-COOH or a hydrogen atom Y denotes -COOH or the radical -CH2 -CHOH-SO3H R5 denotes an alkyl radical of an R9 -COOH acid present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl radical , especially C7, C9, C11 or C13, a C17 alkyl radical and its iso form, an unsaturated C17 radical.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic Acid, Cocoamphodipropionic Acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL C2M concentrated by the company RHONE POULENC.

In the compositions according to the invention, use is preferably made of surfactant mixtures and in particular mixtures of anionic surfactants and mixtures of anionic surfactants and amphoteric or nonionic surfactants. A particularly preferred mixture is a mixture of at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant.

Preferably, an anionic surfactant chosen from sodium (C12-C14) alkyl sulphates, triethanolamine or ammonium alkyls, (C2-C14) alkyl ethersulfates of sodium, triethanolamine or ammonium oxyethylenated with 2,2 moles of oxide

<Desc / Clms Page number 10>

 ethylene, sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium alpha-olefin (C14-C16) sulfonate and mixtures thereof with: - either an amphoteric surfactant such as the amine derivatives called disodiumcocoamphodipropionate or sodiumcocoamphopropionate marketed in particular by the company RHONE POULENC under the trade name "MIRANOL C2M CONC" in aqueous solution containing 38% active ingredient or under the name MIRANOL C32; or an amphoteric surfactant of zwitterionic type such as alkylbetaines, in particular cocobetaine sold under the name "Dehyton AB 30" in aqueous solution containing 32% of MA by Henkel.

It is also possible to use cationic surfactants among which may be mentioned in particular (non-limiting list): salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; imidazoline derivatives; or oxides of amines with a cationic character.

The composition of the invention may also contain at least one additive chosen from thickeners, perfumes, pearlescent agents, preservatives, sunscreens, anionic or nonionic or cationic or amphoteric polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates , C16-C40 linear or branched chain fatty acids such as 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids, vitamins, panthenol, vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic oils and any other additive conventionally used in the field cosmetic that does not affect the properties of the compositions according to the invention.

These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The precise amount of each additive is readily determined by those skilled in the art according to its nature and function.

<Desc / Clms Page number 11>

The cosmetically acceptable medium may consist solely of water or a mixture of water and at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent such as monoalcohols, polyalcohols, glycol ethers and their mixture. The monoalcohols are especially chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol and n-butanol; alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol, glycol ethers and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition comprises from 50 to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the compositions is generally between 2 and 12 and preferably between 4 and 9. The adjustment of the pH to the desired value can be done conventionally by adding a base (organic or inorganic) in the composition, for example ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly) amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine, or by addition of an inorganic or organic acid, preferably a carboxylic acid such as for example citric acid.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may be used more particularly for washing or treating keratin materials such as the hair, the skin, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, the lips, the scalp and more particularly the hair.

In particular, the compositions according to the invention are detergent compositions such as shampoos, shower gels and bubble baths. In this embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise a washing base, which is generally aqueous.

The surfactant or surfactants forming the washing base may be indifferently chosen, alone or in mixtures, from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic and cationic surfactants as defined above.

The quantity and the quality of the washing base are those sufficient to give the final composition a satisfactory foaming and / or detergent power.

<Desc / Clms Page number 12>

Thus, according to the invention, the washing base can represent from 4% to 50% by weight, preferably from 6% to 35% by weight, and still more preferably from 8% to 25% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition.

The subject of the invention is also a process for treating keratin materials such as the skin or the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to the keratin materials a cosmetic composition as defined above, then optionally performing a rinsing with the water.

Thus, this method according to the invention allows the maintenance of the hairstyle, the treatment, care or washing or removing make-up of the skin, hair or any other keratin material.

The compositions of the invention may also be in the form of after-shampoo to be rinsed or not, compositions for permanent, straightening, coloring or bleaching, or in the form of compositions to be rinsed, to be applied before or after a coloration, a discoloration , a perm or a straightening or between the two stages of a perm or straightening.

The compositions according to the invention can be used as non-rinsed products, in particular for maintaining the hairstyle, shaping or styling the hair.

They are more particularly styling lotions, blow-drying lotions, fixing compositions (lacquers) and styling.

The compositions of the invention may also be in the form of washing compositions for the skin, and in particular in the form of solutions or gels for bathing or showering or makeup removers.

The compositions according to the invention may also be in the form of aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic lotions for the care of the skin and / or the hair.

<Desc / Clms Page number 13>

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a gel, a milk, a cream, a lotion, a stick, an emulsion, a thickened lotion or a mousse and may be used for the skin, the nails, the eyelashes, the lips and more particularly the hair.

The compositions may be packaged in various forms, in particular in vaporizers, pump bottles or in aerosol containers in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in foam form. Such forms of packaging are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a mousse for the treatment of the hair.

When the composition according to the invention is packaged in the form of an aerosol in order to obtain a lacquer or an aerosol foam, it comprises at least one propellant which may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane and propane. , isobutane, pentane, a chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbon and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use as propellant carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether, nitrogen, compressed air and their mixtures.

In all that follows or the above, the percentages expressed are by weight.

The invention will now be more fully illustrated by the following examples which can not be considered as limiting the described embodiments.

In the examples, MA means active ingredient.

 EXAMPLE 1 The following 4 blow-drying compositions were prepared:

<Desc / Clms Page number 14>

<Tb>
<tb> 1 <SEP> 2 <SEP> 3 <SEP> 4 <SEP>
<tb> Invention <SEP> Comparative <SEP> Comparative <SEP> Comparative
<tb> - <SEP> N-Oleoyldihydrosphingosine <SEP> 0.1 <SEP> g <SEP> - <SEP> 0.5 <SEP> g
<tb> (ceramide)
<tb> - <SEP> Wax <SEP> of <SEP> hydrogenated <SEP> sunflower <SEP> 0.4 <SEP> g <SEP> 0.5 <SEP> g <SEP> - <SEP> @
<tb> (Laboratory <SEP> SOETENAEY)
<tb> - <SEP> Chloride <SEP> of <SEP> behenyl <SEP> trimethyl <SEP> 2 <SEP> gMA <SEP> 2 <SEP> gMA <SEP> 2 <SEP> gMA <SEP> 2.5 <SEP> gMA
<tb> ammonium
<tb> -Water <SEP> qsp <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP>
<Tb>
1 g of composition is applied to locks (2.7 g) of previously washed and dewatered hair. Let it pause for 5 minutes, comb the locks and rinse with water.

Wick wicking on wet hair A wick, fixed on a sliding bench, is driven in a horizontal rectilinear motion between two other fixed wicks. The force to be exerted to slide the wick is measured using an electronic gauge connected to the drive arm. The lower the sliding force, the better the cosmetic properties.

The results are summarized in the tables below:

<Tb>
<tb> Compositions <SEP> 1 <SEP> 2 <SEP> 3 <SEP> 4
<tb> tested <SEP> Invention <SEP> Comparative <SEP> Comparative <SEP> Comparative
<tb> Strength <SEP> of <SEP> 24.7 <SEP> g <SEP> 34.4g <SEP> 34.4 <SEP> g <SEP> 41.4 <SEP> g
<tb> slip
<Tb>
The sliding force of the composition 1 according to the invention is significantly lower than that of the compositions 2,3 and 4.

<Desc / Clms Page number 15>

The composition containing both ceramide and sunflower wax therefore has better cosmetic properties than those containing only one of the two compounds.

Brush test: 1 g of composition is applied to locks (2.7 g) of hair previously washed and dewatered. Let it pause for 5 minutes, comb the locks and rinse with water.

A brushing is carried out using a brush and a hair dryer. The brushing is done by passing the brush from the root to the tip. Broken hair is carefully removed from the brush with a comb and weighed. The mass of hair recovered for a wick is reduced to the mass of hair recovered for one gram of starting hair.

The mass of hair recovered for each of compositions 1 to 4 was compared. The greater the mass of broken hair, the less the composition protects the hair.

The results are summarized in the tables below:

<Tb>
<tb> Compositions <SEP> 1 <SEP> 2 <SEP> 3 <SEP> 4
<tb> tested <SEP> Invention <SEP> Comparative <SEP> Comparative <SEP> Comparative
<tb> Mass <SEP> of
<tb> hair
<tb> recovered <SEP> on <SEP> 8.7mg / g <SEP> 12.1 <SEP> mg / g <SEP> 13.1 <SEP> mg / g <SEP> 17.5 <SEP> mg / g <SEP>
<tb> the <SEP> brush
<tb> after <SEP> blow drying
<Tb>

<Desc / Clms Page number 16>

 Note that the mass of hair recovered on the brush after blow-drying is significantly reduced (-28%) for the composition according to the invention 1 containing both ceramide and sunflower wax.

Claims (14)

1. Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it contains in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one wax having a melting point between 70 and 85 C and at least 80% of the carbon chains have more than 40 carbon atoms and at least one ceramide-type compound. 2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the ceramide-type compound corresponds to the general formula (I):

 in which: - R1 denotes: - either a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C1-C50, preferably C5-C50, this radical may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups optionally esterified with an acid R7COOH R7 is a linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, C1-C35 hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, wherein the hydroxyl radicals of the radical R7 can be esterified with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acid, optionally mono or polyhydroxy, C 1 -C 35; or a radical R "- (NR-CO) -R ', R denotes a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon radical C1-C20 mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably monohydroxylated, R' and R" are hydrocarbon radicals whose sum of carbon atoms is between 9 and 30, R 'being a divalent radical.  or an R8-O-CO- (CH2) p radical, R8 denotes a C1-C20 hydrocarbon radical. p is an integer ranging from 1 to 12. R2 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a saccharide type radical, in particular a (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) m or sulphogalactosyl radical, a sulphate or phosphate residue, a phosphorylethylamine radical and a radical; <Desc / Clms Page number 18>  phosphorylethylammonium, wherein n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; - R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon radical C1-C33, saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or not, the hydroxyl or hydroxyls which can be esterified with a mineral acid or an acid R7COOH, R7 having the same meanings as above the hydroxyl or hydroxyls which can be etherified with a (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) m, sulphogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium radical, R3 also possibly being substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl radicals; preferably, R3 denotes a C15-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl radical, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified with a C16-C30 α-hydroxy acid; - R4 denotes a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, a hydrocarbon radical C3-C50, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated or a -CH2-CHOH-CH2-O-R6 radical in which R6 denotes a C10-C26 hydrocarbon radical or an R8-O-CO- (CH2) p radical, R8 denotes a C1-C20 hydrocarbon radical, p is an integer ranging from 1 to 12, - R5 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 hydrocarbon radical, the hydroxyl or hydroxyls being etherified by a (glycosyl) n (galactosyl) m, sulphogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium radical, provided that when R3 and R5 denote hydrogen or when R3 denotes hydrogen and R5 denotes methyl, then R4 denotes a hydrogen atom, a methyl or ethyl radical. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ceramide-type compound is chosen from the group consisting of: - 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol, - 2-N -oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, <Desc / Clms Page number 19>  2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N- [2-hydroxy-palmitoyl] -aminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane -1,3,4 triol, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, or mixtures of these compounds. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the ceramide-type compound is selected from bis (N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl) malonamide, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- Cetyloxy (3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) amide) and N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ceramide-type compound (s) are present in concentrations ranging from 0.0001 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably from 0.001 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.005 to 3% by weight. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said wax contains at least 80% of carbon chains comprising from 40 to 65 carbon atoms. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said wax is present in concentrations ranging from 0.0001 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably from 0.001 to 10%. by weight and more preferably between 0.005 and 3% by weight 8- Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one surfactant chosen from anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants, amphoteric compounds and mixtures thereof. 9- Composition according to Claim 8, characterized in that the surfactant or surfactants are present at a concentration of between 0.1% and 60% by weight, preferably between 3% and 40% by weight, and even more preferentially. between 5% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. <Desc / Clms Page number 20>  10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetically acceptable medium consists of water or a mixture of water and at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent. 11. Composition according to Claim 10, characterized in that the cosmetically acceptable solvents are chosen from the group consisting of monoalcohols, polyalcohols, glycol ethers, and mixtures thereof. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of gel, milk, lotion, stick, cream, dispersion, thick lotion or foam. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a product for styling, maintaining the hairstyle, or shaping. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is packaged in the form of a vaporizer, a pump bottle or in an aerosol container to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a foam. 15- Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additive selected from thickeners, perfumes, pearlescents, preservatives, sunscreens, anionic polymers or non-ionic or cationic or amphoteric, proteins, protein hydrolysates, C16-C40 linear or branched chain fatty acids such as 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids, vitamins, panthenol, and esters fat. 16- A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that it is in the form of shampoo, conditioner, composition for perm, straightening, coloring or bleaching hair composition to be rinsed to be applied between the two steps of a permanent or straightening, washing composition for the skin. <Desc / Clms Page number 21>  17- Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16 for washing keratin materials such as hair. 18. A method of treating keratin materials, such as the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to said materials a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 16, then optionally to perform a rinsing with water. 19. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16 for protecting keratinous substances, in particular the hair, physical or chemical attacks. 20. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16 to protect the hair during blow drying.