FR2771293A1 - Dermo-cosmetic water in oil emulsion without surfactant, useful for sun protection products - Google Patents

Abstract

New dermo-cosmetic composition is a stable water-in-oil emulsion, free of emulsifier and containing a lipophilic agent with an HLB <= 3.

Description

WATER-IN-OIL DERMO-COSMETIC COMPOSITION
WITHOUT EMULSIFYING SURFACTANTS
The present invention relates to a new dermocosmetic water-in-oil cosmetic composition containing no emulsifying surfactant and a new manufacturing concept allowing, after simple modification, to obtain a stable oil-in-water emulsion without surfactant and its use. in topical application.

It is known that for the production of stable Water / Oil, Oil / Water emulsions,
Water / Silicone or triple Water / Oil / Water, Oil / Water / Oil emulsions, one or more emulsifiers are needed and, depending on the different components of the formula, a greater or lesser amount of these emulsifiers will be necessary to resolve problems of stability over time.

Unfortunately, these emulsifying compounds generally have an irritant action on the skin. In addition, in the case of Water / Oil emulsions, problems of texture and cosmetic acceptability arise.

Finally, in the case of photoprotective compositions containing photoprotective agents, their uses, at high concentrations, pose formulation problems. Indeed, in Oil / Water emulsions, the presence of these agents in the internal phase, at high concentrations, causes problems of dispersion and of homogeneity of the dispersion, leading to a reduction in their effectiveness. Therefore, in view of these problems, the use of Water / Oil emulsion seems a more appropriate choice. However, the use of surfactants or emulsifiers in this type of formulation leads to problems of skin intolerance.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that it is possible to produce stable Water / Oil emulsions without the aid of emulsifying surfactants. Water / Oil formulations comprising such characteristics have, in addition to their stability, qualities of application and comfort specific to formulations having no surfactant or emulsifier.

In accordance with the present invention, new dermo-cosmetic compositions are therefore now proposed in the form of Water / Oil emulsions, stable and free of emulsifier, and which comprise at least one lipophilic agent having an HLB <3.

According to a particular characteristic of the present invention, the composition comprises the lipophilic agent in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight of the total composition.

According to a particular characteristic of the present invention, the lipophilic agent used is a surfactant or not having an HLB <3 not classified in the emulsifiers Water in Oil, nor Oil in Water, it is in particular chosen from triglycerides of hydroxylated milk, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan tristearate, diglycerol tetrastearate, polyglycerol ester of fatty acids, decaglycerol decasterate, glycerol mono and dioleate and propylene glycol, sorbide dioleate, POE-1 nonylphenol, perfluor polymethyl-isopropyl ether.

According to another characteristic of the invention, the dermo-cosmetic composition has an aqueous phase which may contain humectants, moisturizers, hydrophilic active principles, particulate fillers of hydrophilic nature and other agents capable of improving the cosmetic and treating qualities of the final composition, in particular hydrophilic photoprotective agents.

According to another characteristic of the present invention, the composition has an oily phase which may contain one or more constituents chosen from emollients, vegetable oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils, lipophilic active agents, mineral fillers photoprotective particles or not, and lipophilic photoprotective agents.

The dermo-cosmetic composition according to the invention therefore comprises in percentage (by weight)
an oily external phase 10 to 99%
a lipophilic agent with HLB <3 0.1 to 10%
an aqueous phase 1 to 90%
fillers and additives 0 to 50%
water water i 90%
The oily phase may contain different fatty substances, chosen, alone or in mixtures, from oils of vegetable, animal or mineral origin, natural or synthetic waxes and the like.

Among the oils which can enter into the composition of the fatty phase, mention may therefore be made of mineral oils such as paraffin oil and petrolatum oil,
isododecane, oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene, oils of vegetable origin such as shea butter, vegetable squalane,
Sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, oil
jojoba, sesame oil, peanut oil, reason seed oil,
Rapeseed oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, oil
apricot kernel, colaphyllum oil, rice bran oil,
corn germ, wheat germ oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil,
Evening primrose oil, safflower oil, passionflower oil and rye oil
synthetic oils such as purcellin oil, butyl myristate,
isopropyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate,
Isopropyl adipate, ethylhexyl adipate, butyl stearate, stearate
hexadecyl, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, stearate
isocetyl, decyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene dicaprylate
glycol and esters derived from lanolic acid such as isopropyl lanolate and
isocetyl lanolate, isoparaffins and poly-a-olefins.

As other oils which can be used, mention may also be made of fatty acid triglycerides such as caprylic triglycerides, fatty acid benzoates in
C12-C15, acetylglycerides, octanoates and decanoates of alcohols and polyalcohols such as those of glycol and glycerol, ricinoleates of alcohols and polyalcohols such as those of cetyl, triglycerides of fatty acids saturated in ClO- Clos, fluorinated and perfluorinated oils, lanolin, hydrogenated lanolin, acetylated lanolin, silicone oils, volatile or not, or organic solutions of gums and / or organosiloxane resins.

The aqueous phase may contain humectants such as, for example, polyhydric alcohols (Butylene glycol, Glycerol, Ethyleneghycol, Propylene glycol,
Diethylene glycol, Sorbitol ...), water-soluble lower alcohols (Ethanol,
Isopropanol or Butanol). It can also contain gelling agents of all kinds such as, for example, cellulose derivatives, magnesium and sodium or aluminum silicates, algae derivatives, natural gums, synthetic polymers and Thermal Spring Water .

Of course, the compositions according to the invention can also contain fillers and lipophilic or hydrophilic additives capable of being present in the aqueous phase and / or in the fatty phase. Mention may be made of thickeners, softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, insect repellants, organic filters active in UVA and / or UVB, pigments and photoprotective mineral nanopigments , moisturizers, vitamins, perfumes, preservatives, fillers, sequestrants, dyes or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic field.

Among the lipophilic agents of HLB less than or equal to 3 suitable for the compositions, mention may be made of hydroxylated milk triglycerides, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan tristearate, diglycerol tetrastearate, polyglycerol ester of fatty acids, decaglycerol decasterate, glycerol mono and dioleate and propylene glycol, sorbide dioleate, POE-1 nonylphenol, perfluor polymethyl-isopropyl ether.

The lipophilic agent is preferably present at a concentration of between 0.1 and 5% by weight of the final composition.

The present invention also relates to a process for manufacturing a dermatological and / or cosmetic composition characterized by
PHASE A: In the manufacturing tank, introduce and melt, if necessary,
the different elements of the oily phase, add and disperse the
lipophilic and mineral fillers.

PHASE B: In the formula water, introduce and dissolve the materials
first hydrophilic, add and disperse gelling agents
hydrophilic.

PHASE C: Once the two previous phases are homogeneous, introduce by
successive fractions PHASE B in PHASE A under strong
agitation. After mixing, add the active ingredients and
elements of the thermolubile formula. Finalize the preparation with
the perfume.

There is a second variant to this procedure, it is the reverse process, that is to say, introducing the oily phase into the aqueous phase and finalizing the product in the same way as above.

FORMULATION EXAMPLES:
EXAMPLE 1: ANTISOLAR PRODUCT WITH ORGANIC FILTERS AND MINERAL SCREENS 1. OIL PHASE
ISODODECANE 1% to 10%
TRIGLYCERIDE CAPRIQUE / CAPRYLIQUE 1% to 10%
PEG 45 / DODECYL GLYCOL COPOLYMER 0.01% to 5% 2. LIPOPHYL AGENT
HYDROXYL MILK TRIGLYCERIDES 0.1% to 5% 3. AQUEOUS PHASE
PEMULEN TR 10 0.01% to 0.9 XANTHANE GUM 0.05% to 1% 4. ACTIVE INGREDIENTS AND EXCIPIENTS
ULTRA FINE TITANIUM DIOXIDE 1% to 30%
ULTRA FINE ZINC OXIDE 1% to 30%
CINNAMIC ESTERS 0.1% to 10%
DIBENZOYL METHANE DERIVATIVES 0.05% to 5%
QS CONSERVATIVES
ANTI RADICALS 0.01% to 3%
QS PERFUME
SODIUM HYDROXIDE QS
PURIFIED WATER QSP 100%
EXAMPLE 2: AFTER SHAVE BALM 1. OILY PHASE
ISODODECANE 1% to 20%
DIMETHICONE 1% to 5% 2. LIPOPHYL AGENT
SORBITAN TRISTEARATE 0.01% to 5% 3. AQUEOUS PHASE
ETHANOL at 95 DENATURE I% at 40%
BUTYLENE GLYCOL 0.5% to 10%
MACROGOL 200 # 0.1% to 10%
CROSSLINKED POLYMER OF C10-C30 ALKYLACRYLATE 0.05% to 2% 4. ACTIVE INGREDIENTS AND EXCIPIENTS
MENTHYLE LACTATE 0.1% to 1%
ALLANTOINE 0.05% to 0.5% ALPHA BISABOLOL 0.1% to 1%
MOISTURIZERS 0.1% to 10%
D-PANTHENOL 0.01% to 1%
QS NEUTRALIZERS
QS CONSERVATIVES
QS DYES
QS PERFUME
PURIFIED WATER QSP 100%
EXAMPLE 3: VITAMIN BODY MILK 1. OILY PHASE
SHEA BUTTER 1% to 10%
TRIGLYCERIDE CAPRIQUE / CAPRYLIQUE 1% to 10% SQUALANE VEGETAL 1% to 20%
CALENDULA OIL EXTRACT I% to 25%
2. LIPOPHYLE AGENT
SORBITAN TRIOLEATE 0.05% to 4% 3. AQUEOUS PHASE
PEMULEN TR 2 # 0.1% to 2%
VEEGUM ULTRA # 0.1% to 2%
CELLULOSIC DERIVATIVE 0.05% to 0.5%
GLYCEROL 0.5% to 15% BUTYLENE GLYCOL 0.5% to 20% 4. ACTIVE INGREDIENTS AND EXCIPIENTS a-TOCOPHEROL 0.01%
VITAMIN A PALMITATE 0.01% to 0.5%
ASCORBIC ACID 0.01%
GLYCERIC ESTER OF VITAMIN F 0.5%
ALLANTOINE 0.1% to 0.5%
QS CONSERVATIVES
QS NEUTRALIZERS
QS DYES
AVENE QSP THERMAL WATER 100%
EXAMPLE 4: 100% MINERAL ANTISOLAR PRODUCT 1. OILY PHASE
C12-15 ALKYL BENZONATE 1% to 10%
ISODODECANE 1% to 20%
CYCLOMETHICONE 1% to 20%
DIMETHICONE 0.5% to 10% 2. LIPOPHYL AGENT
HYDROXYL MILK TRIGLYCERIDES 0.1% to 5% 3. AQUEOUS PHASE
PEMULEN TR 10 0.05% to 3%
CARBOMER 0.05% to 2% 4. ACTIVE INGREDIENTS AND EXCIPIENTS
ULTRA FINE TITANIUM DIOXIDE 1% to 30%
ULTRA FINE ZINC OXIDE 0.1% to 30%
VITAMIN E ACETATE 0.05% to 2%
HYDROGENATED SILICA 0.05% to 2
ULTRA FINE IRON OXIDE QS
QS CONSERVATIVES
SODIUM HYDROXIDE QS
QS PERFUME
AVENE QSP THERMAL WATER 100%
EXAMPLE 5: AFTER SUN FACE 1. OILY PHASE
SHEA BUTTER 1% to 10%
WHITE VASELINE I% to 15%
C12-15 ALKYL BENZONATE 1% to 20% 2. SORBITAN LIPOPHYL AGENT TRIOLEATE 0.5% to 3% 3. AQUEOUS PHASE
XANTHANE GUM 0.1% to 0.5%
GLYCEROL 5% to 10% MACROGOL # 600 1% to 10%
OCTOXYGLYCERINE 0.1% to 5% 4. ACTIVE INGREDIENTS AND EXCIPIENTS
ALLANTOINE 0.05% to 1% ALPHA BISABOLOL 0.05% to 1%
VITAMIN C 0.01% to 0.5%
VITAMIN E 0.05% to 3%
VITAMIN E ACETATE 0.1% to 2%
VITAMIN F ESTER GLYCERIC 0.5% to 2%
QS CONSERVATIVES at
QS ANTIOXIDANTS
QS DYES
QS PERFUME
100% QSP THERMAL WATER

Claims (6)

 HLB <3.  free of emulsifier, and which comprises at least one lipophilic agent having a  CLAIMS 1. Dermo-cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, stable and 2. Dermo-cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that  that the lipophilic agent is present in the composition in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by  weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight of the total composition. 3. dermo-cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 2,  characterized in that the lipophilic agent is chosen from milk triglycerides  hydroxylated, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan tristearate, diglycerol  tetrastearate, polyglycerol ester of fatty acids, decaglycerol  decasterate, mono glycerol and dioleate and propylene glycol, sorbide  dioleate, POE-1 nonylphenol, perfluor polymethyl-isopropyl ether. 4. dermo-cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3,  characterized in that it has an aqueous phase which may contain agents  humectants, moisturizers, hydrophilic active ingredients, particulate fillers  hydrophilic and other agents capable of improving the qualities  cosmetics and treating the final composition, in particular agents  hydrophilic photoprotectors. 5. Dermo-cosmetic composition according to one of claims I to 4,  characterized in that it has an oily phase which may contain one or more  constituents chosen from emollients, vegetable oils, oils  mineral, synthetic oils, silicone oils, lipophilic active agents,  particulate mineral charges, photoprotective or not, and agents  lipophilic photoprotectors. 6. Dermo-cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5  characterized in that the aqueous phase represents from 1 to 90% by weight of the  total composition.