FR2750322A1 - CONCENTRATED DISPERSIONS INCLUDING A WATER-SOLUBLE CATIONIC POLYSACCHARIDE, THEIR PREPARATION PROCESS AND THEIR USE IN COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses stable concentrated aqueous dispersions of a system constituted by at least one cationic polysaccharide soluble or dispersible in water and at least one surfactant, comprising: 0.5 to 30 wt.%, preferably 10 to 30 wt.%, of cationic polysaccharide particles soluble or dispersible in water (Pcat); 20 to 50 wt.%, expressed as dry matter, of a surfactant (TA); a hydrocarbon compound (OH) comprising at least one hydroxyl grouping, with a molar weight of less than 1000, in an amount corresponding to 0.1 to 10 parts by weight per part of polymer (Pcat); 0 to 10 wt.% of a water soluble inorganic salt (Sinorg); 0 to 1 wt.% of a stabilising agent (Stab); 5 to 50 wt.% of water (W). The invention also discloses a method for their preparation, comprising the addition of a premix (A) free from water and consisting of a cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) in powder form and of a hydrocarbon compound (OH) in liquid form, to a premix (B) with a viscosity less than 50000 mPa.s., consisting of water, of a surfactant (TA), optionally of a water soluble inorganic salt (Sinorg), optionally of a stabilising agent (Stab) and optionally of a hydrocarbon compound (OH). The invention also concerns their use in the preparation of cosmetic compositions, and cosmetic compositions containing them.

Description

CONCENTRATED DISPERSIONS COMPRISING A POLYSACCHARIDE
WATER-SOLUBLE CATIONIC, PROCESS FOR THEIR PREPARATION AND THEIR
USE IN COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS
The present invention relates to stable concentrated dispersions comprising at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide, process for their preparation, their use in cosmetic compositions and cosmetic compositions containing said dispersions.

 The cosmetic compositions are increasingly using cationic polysaccharides water-soluble or water-dispersible to fulfill various functions such as the control of rheology, a conditioning effect, the reduction of irritation due to certain ingredients of the formulation.

Most of these polysaccharides are in the form of powders and are difficult to use; their implementation often requires specific equipment that can lead to economic problems (productivity, equipment occupation time); they also present health and safety problems related to the handling of powders.

 The Applicant has found that a technical solution to solve these problems was the use of these water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharides in stable concentrated dispersions containing solutions of surfactants.

According to the invention, these are stable concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) of a system consisting of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide and at least one surfactant, characterized in that they comprise
- On the order of 0.5 to 30% by weight, expressed as dry matter, of particles of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat)
- About 20 to 50% by weight, expressed as solids of at least one surfactant (TA)
at least one hydrocarbon compound (OH) comprising at least one hydroxyl group, with a molecular mass of less than 1000, in an amount corresponding to approximately 0.1 to 10, preferably approximately 0.5 to 5 parts by weight per part of polymer ( pcat)
- Of the order of 0 to 10%, preferably of the order of 2 to 6% by weight of a water-soluble inorganic salt (Sinorg)
from 0 to about 1%, preferably of the order of 0.25 to 0.75% by weight of a stabilizing agent (Stab)
- Of the order of 5 to 50% water (W).

 The water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharides (Pcat) which may be used are in particular the water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic derivatives of natural polysaccharides of animal or vegetable or semisynthetic origin.

Polysaccharides of animal origin can come from the carapace of some animals, such as crustaceans such as chitin. Those of plant origin can come from algae, seeds, roots or tubers, such as galactomannans such as guar, carob, gum of tara, gum cassia, glucomannans such as konjakmannane, alginates ( sodium alginate), gum acacia, gum arabic, agar or various starches.

The semisynthetic polysaccharides may be derivatives of chitin (chitosan), cellulose derivatives (hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydoxypropylcellulose).

The cationic derivatives of these natural or semisynthetic polysaccharides are generally prepared by etherification or esterification of the free hydroxyl groups of the sugars forming the polysaccharide, by means of quaternary ammonium organic compounds of the 2,3-epoxymethylammonium chloride type.

These water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic derivatives of natural or semisynthetic polysaccharides generally have a molecular weight of at least 20,000, most generally of the order of from 200,000 to 3,000,000.

 Preferred cationic polysaccharides (Pcat) include cationic derivatives of guar, in particular hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride and hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and hydroxypropyl guar (respectively JAGUAR Ci 3S or 14S and JAGUAR C162 marketed by RHONE-POULENC). ).

Among the surfactants that may be present, mention may be made of: anionic surfactants such as
saturated or unsaturated C8-C24, preferably C14-C20 fatty acid salts, C8-C20 alkylbenzenesulfonates, C8-C22 primary or secondary alkylsulfonates, alkylglycerol sulfonates, sulfonated polycarboxylic acids described in US Pat.
GB-A-1,082,179, paraffin sulfonates, N-acyl N-alkyltaurates, alkyl ester and alkylether and / or alkylarylether phosphates, isethionates, alkylsuccinamates, alkylsulfosuccinates, monoesters or diesters sulfosuccinates, N-acyl sarcosinates, alkyl glycoside sulfates, alkyl polyethoxy carboxylates; the cation being an alkali or alkaline earth metal (sodium, potassium, lithium, magnesium), a substituted or unsubstituted ammonium residue (methyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, tetramethylammonium, dimethylpiperidinium ...) or an alkanolamine derivative (monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine ...); the alkyl ester sulphonates of formula R-CH (SO 3 M) -COOR ', where R represents a C 8-20 alkyl radical, preferably C 10 -C 18 R' represents a C 1 -C 6, preferably C 1 -C 3, alkyl radical, and M represents an alkaline cation (sodium, potassium, lithium), substituted or unsubstituted ammonium (methyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, tetramethylammonium, dimethylpiperidinium, etc.) or derived from an alkanolamine (monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine). .). Mention may especially be made of methyl ester sulfonates whose radical R is C14-C16;
alkylsulphates of formula ROSO3M, where R represents a C1-C24, preferably C12-C20, and especially C12-C18, alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical, M representing a hydrogen atom or a cation of the same definition as above; above, and their ethoxylenated derivatives (EO) and / or propoxylenes (OP), having on average from 0.5 to 6 units, preferably from 0.5 to 3 EO and / or OP units; the alkylamide sulphates of formula RCONHR'OSO3M where R represents a C2-C22 alkyl radical, preferably a C6-C20 alkyl radical, R 'represents a C2-C3 alkyl radical,
M represents a hydrogen atom or a cation of the same definition as above, as well as their ethoxylenated (EO) and / or propoxylenated (OP) derivatives, having on average 0.5 to 60 EO and / or OP units; alkyl and dialkyl phosphates and ether phosphates.

nonionic surfactants such as polyoxyalkylenated alkylphenols (polyethoxyethylenated, polyoxypropylenated, polyoxybutylenated) whose alkyl substituent is C 6 -C 12 and containing from 5 to 25 oxyalkylene units; by way of example, mention may be made of TRITON X-45, X-114, X-100 or
X-102 marketed by ROHM & HAAS Cy .; glucosamides, glucamides; glycerolamides derived from N-alkylamines (US-A-5,223,179 and FR-A-1,585,966); . polyoxyalkylenated C 6 -C 22 aliphatic alcohols containing from 1 to 25 oxyalkylene units (oxyethylene, oxypropylene); for example, we can mention the
TERGITOL 15-S-9, TERGITOL 24-L-6 NMW marketed by Union Carbide Corp.,
NEODOL 45-9, NEODOL 23-65, NEODOL 45-7, NEODOL 45-4 marketed by
SHELL CHEMICAL Cy., KYRO EOB marketed by THE PROCTER & GAMBLE Cy; products resulting from the condensation of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with propylene glycol, ethylene glycol and / or glycerol, such as
PLURONIC marketed by BASF; products resulting from the condensation of ethylene oxide or of propylene oxide with ethylenediamine, such as TETRONIC marketed by BASF; . amine oxides such as C1-C18 alkyl dimethylamine oxides, C8-C22 alkoxy ethyl dihydroxy ethylamine oxides; the alkylpolyglycosides described in US-A-4,565,647 and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives; . C 8 -C 20 fatty acid amides; . ethoxylated fatty acids; . ethoxylated fatty amides; ethoxylated amines;
ethoxylated amidoamines, in particular those derived from N-hydroxyethyl
N'-alkylamide ethylene diamines.

cationic surfactants such as alkyltrimethylammonium halides, dialkyldimethylammonium halides, alkyldimethylbenzylammonium halides, alkyldimethylethylammonium halides, and the like;

amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants such as
alkylbetaines, alkyldimethylbetaines, alkylamidopropylbetaines, alkylamidopropyldimethylbetaines, alkyltrimethylsulfetaines, imidazoline derivatives such as alkylamphoacetates, alkylamphodiacetates, alkylamphopropionates, alkylamphodipropionates, alkylsultaines or alkylamidopropylhydroxysultaines, the condensation products of fatty acids and protein hydrolysates, amphoteric derivatives of alkylpolyamines such as AMPHOLIC XL marketed by RHONE-POULENC, AMPHOLAC 7T / X and AMPHOLAC 7C / X marketed by BEROL NOBEL.

 Preferably, the surfactants (TA) are chosen from those of the anionic type, such as alkyl sulphates and / or alkyl ether sulphates and / or alkyl taurates, preferably associated with at least one amphoteric surfactant such as alkyl betaines. and / or al kylam idopropyl betaines and / or alkylam phoacetates or diacetates.

Among the organic compounds (OH) containing a hydroxyl group, mention may be made of mono or polyalcohols, such as aliphatic monoalcohols containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, hexanol, aliphatic diols containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol,
Hexylene glycol, aliphatic polyols such as glycerol, sorbitol, pentaerythritol, polyalkylene glycols with a molecular weight of less than 1000 - sugars such as hexoses or pentoses such as glucose, galactose, mannose, disaccharides such as sucrose, lactose or mixtures thereof.

 Preferably, said organic compound (OH) is chosen from aliphatic polyols, and especially propylene glycol, hexylene glycol and glycerol.

 Among the water-soluble inorganic salts (Sinorg), mention may be made of sodium chloride, sodium sulphate and ammonium sulphate.

 Among the possible stabilizing agents (Stab), xanthan gum, succinoglycan, etc. can be particularly mentioned.

 The dispersions (D.C.S.Pcat) which are the subject of the invention are in the form of a pumpable liquid or paste. Their viscosity is generally of the order of 200 to 100,000 mPa.s. or more, most generally of the order of 2000 to 10000 mPa.s.

 Another subject of the invention consists of a process for preparing said dispersions (D.C.S.Pcat).

It is a process for the preparation of stable concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) of a system consisting of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide and at least one surfactant, characterized by the addition of a premix (A) to a premix (B), - said premix (A) being free of water and consisting of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) used in the form of a powder and at least one hydrocarbon compound (OH) in liquid form with a molecular weight of less than 1000 comprising at least one hydroxyl group, - said premix (B) having a viscosity of less than 50,000 mPa.s., and consisting of water of at least one surfactant (TA), optionally a water-soluble inorganic salt (Sinorg), optionally at least one stabilizing agent (Stab) and optionally a hydrocarbon compound (OH) in liquid form of lower molecular weight at least 1000 having at least one hydroxyl group, said premix (B) having a pH such that it is not likely to hydrate the cationic polysaccharide (Pcat), the relative amounts of the various constituents of the premixes (A) and (B) ) being, per 100 parts by weight of all the constituents,
- On the order of 0.5 to 30 parts by weight, expressed as dry matter, of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat)
- About 20 to 50 parts by weight, expressed as solids of at least one surfactant (TA)
from 0 to 10 parts, preferably from 2 to 6 parts by weight, of a water-soluble inorganic salt (Inorg)
from 0 to about 1 part, preferably from about 0.25 to 0.75 part by weight of a stabilizing agent (Stab)
from about 5 to 50 parts by weight of water (W)
the amount of hydrocarbon compound (OH) with a molecular weight of less than 1000 having at least one hydroxyl group corresponding to approximately 0.1 to 10, preferably of the order of 0.5 to 5 parts by weight per part of cationic polysaccharide ( Pcat), at least 0.5 parts by weight per part of cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) of said hydrocarbon compound (OH) being present in the premix (A).

 Said premix (A) can be prepared by stirring dispersion of the cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) in the hydrocarbon compound (OH) until a homogeneous dispersion is obtained.

 When an inorganic salt (Sinorg) is present, the premix (B) can be prepared by adding said inorganic salt (Sinorg) in water or in a solution of the stabilizing agent (Stab) in water, and then mixing with the surfactant (TA); preferably said premix (B) is prepared by adding the aqueous inorganic salt solution (Sinorg) in the surfactant (TA).

The amounts of salt are adjusted according to the nature of the surfactant, the amount of water, the possible presence of stabilizer, so that the viscosity of the premix (B) does not exceed 50,000 mPa.s .

 In the absence of inorganic salt (Sinorg), the premix (B) can be prepared by simply adding water optionally containing the hydrocarbon compound (OH) to the surfactant (TA).

 When a stabilizing agent (Stab) is present, it is dissolved in water optionally containing the hydrocarbon compound (OH); the resulting solution is then added to the surfactant (TA).

 For a good realization of the process, the pH of the premix (B) is adjusted if necessary, in order to avoid any risk of hydration of the cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) in the final dispersion.

Thus, in the case where the cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) is a hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, the pH of the premix (B) is adjusted so that the pH of the final dispersion is greater than 10, preferably of the order of 11. at 13; if stabilizing xanthan gum is additionally present in this dispersion, the pH is preferably of the order of 8.5 to 10.5. Depending on the nature of the surfactant (TA), a neutralizing agent may therefore be necessary; this is preferably selected from alkali metal hydroxides.

 The premix (A) is added to the premix (B) by adding the premix (A) to the premix (B) with stirring until a stable dispersion is obtained.

 The stable concentrated dispersions comprising a cationic polysaccharide (DCSPcat) described above may be used for the preparation of liquid or solid cosmetic compositions in an amount of about 0.1 to 3 parts by weight of cationic polysaccharide ( Pcat) per 100 parts by weight of cosmetic composition.

 Different procedures can be implemented for this purpose.

 A first mode may consist in incorporating the other ingredients of the cosmetic composition, in particular those whose hydration is to be avoided, directly into said stable concentrated dispersion comprising a cationic polysaccharide (DCSPcat), then to be diluted, most often to the water, and adjust the pH; this method of incorporation is particularly well suited to the preparation of conditioning shampoos.

 A second mode may be to dilute said dispersion (D.C.S.Pcat) in water for example, adjust the pH, and then incorporate the other ingredients of the cosmetic composition.

 Another method is to incorporate said dispersion (D.C.S.Pcat) directly into a liquid cosmetic preformulation (shampoo base for example) or powder (soap base or toilet bread for example).

 Said stable concentrated dispersions comprising a cationic polysaccharide (D.C.S.Pcat) may be used for the preparation of a large number of cosmetic compositions, especially in the hair field, the field of personal hygiene and oral hygiene.

Indeed cationic polysaccharides have various properties, including those of: - a conditioning agent in the hair or skin area to improve combability, shine, shaping, reduce static electricity ...

- to facilitate the deposit on the skin of the silicone emulsions - to maintain a good moisturizing of the skin - to avoid or reduce the irritation of the skin by surfactants - to promote the formation of foam and / or improve the quality of the foam.

 Thus in the capillary field, said stable concentrated dispersions comprising a cationic polysaccharide (DCSPcat) can be used for the preparation of rinse formulas, lotions, shampoos (shower shampoos, shampoo conditioners), mousses, sprays, styling gels, lacquers, fixative gels or any other formulation for styling, to facilitate combing or fixing the hair.

 In the field of personal hygiene, these are particularly interesting for obtaining hand or body lotions, toilet milks, makeup remover compositions, products regulating the hydration of the skin, skincare creams, creams or sun protection and ultraviolet radiation milks, anti-acne preparations, local analgesics, mascaras; they can also be used as a constituent of compact and homogeneous solid compositions such as toilet rolls and soaps.

 These can also be used for the preparation of toothpastes, mouthwashes or any other composition for oral hygiene.

 The present invention therefore also relates to cosmetic compositions comprising stable concentrated dispersions comprising a cationic polysaccharide (DCSPcat) described above, in an amount corresponding to about 0.1 to 3% by weight, expressed as cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) .

 The cosmetic compositions comprising the dispersions (D.C.S.Pcat) of the invention, can use a vehicle or a mixture of vehicles compatible (s) with an application on the hair and / or skin.

The term "compatible with an application on the hair and / or the skin" means here that the vehicle does not harm or exert any negative effects on the appearance of the hair and / or skin or does not create irritation of the skin and / or the eye and / or the scalp.

Vehicles compatible with the dispersions described in this invention include, for example, those used in sprays, foams, tonics, gels, shampoos, or rinse lotions. The choice of the appropriate vehicle will depend on the nature of the cationic polysaccharide used and its destination, depending on whether the formulated product is intended to be left on the surface where it has been applied (eg sprays, foams, toner, or gels) or rinsed after use (eg shampoo, conditioner, rinse lotions).

The vehicles that can be used can therefore be simple or complex and include a large number of products usually used in cosmetic compositions for hair and / or skin. The vehicle may be water and / or a solvent, such as C 1 -C 6 alcohols and mixtures thereof, in particular methanol, ethanol and isopropanol, and mixtures thereof. The vehicle may also consist of or contain a wide variety of other compounds such as acetone, hydrocarbons (isobutane,
Hexane, decene), halogenated hydrocarbons (freons), linalool, esters (ethyl acetate, dibutyl phthalate), and volatile silicones (siloxanes such as phenyl pentamethyl siloxane, methoxypropyl heptamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, chloropropyl pentamethyl disiloxane, hydropropylpentamethyl dioxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta siloxane, cyclodimethicone, and dimethicone) and mixtures thereof. When the cosmetic compositions are in the form of sprays, tonic lotions, gels, or foams, the preferred solvents include water, ethanol, volatile silicone derivatives, and mixtures thereof. The solvents used in these mixtures may be miscible or immiscible with each other. Foams and aerosol sprays can also use any propellant capable of generating the products in the form of foam or fine, uniform sprays. By way of examples, mention may be made of trichlorofluoromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, or isobutane.

In the case where these cosmetic compositions are used for local application on the skin, the vehicles must have good aesthetic properties, be compatible with the cationic polysaccharides and all the other components, and not pose any problems concerning the toxicity and the irritation.

These vehicles can take a large number of forms, for example emulsion, foams, sprays ... For example, vehicles in the form of emulsions include water-in-oil, oil-in-water, and oil-in-silicone emulsions. These emulsions cover a wide viscosity range, for example from 100 to 200,000 mPa.s at 25 ° C. These emulsions can also be delivered in the form of sprays using either a mechanical pump type device or in the form of a presusurized aerosol These vehicles can also be delivered in the form of foam.

 The cosmetic compositions which are the subject of the invention may also contain other additives.

 They may in particular contain fixing resins other than said cationic polysaccharide (Pcat).

These fixative resins are preferably dispersed or solubilized in the chosen vehicle. These fixing resins may be of anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric nature, or a mixture of these different natures; these are preferentially chosen from those of anionic or amphoteric nature.

These fixing resins are generally present in cosmetic compositions at concentrations of between 0.5 and 10%, preferably between 1 and 5%.

They are preferably chosen from the following resins: wheat protein derivatives, methyl acrylate 1 acrylamide copolymers, polyvinyl methyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, octyl acrylamide / methyl acrylate / butyl amino ethyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidones, polyvinylpyrrolidone I copolymers methyl methacrylate1 polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers I vinyl acetate, polyvinyl alcohols, polyvinyl alcohol / crotonic acid copolymers, polyvinyl alcohol / maleic anhydride copolymers, hydroxypropyl celluloses, hydroxypropyl guars, sodium polystyrene sulfonates, polyvinylpyrrolidone terpolymers / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, monomethyl ethers of polyvinylpyrrolidone poly (methyl vinyl ether I maleic acid), polyvinyl acetates grafted on polyoxyethylene trunks (EP-A-219 048), copolyesters derived from acid, anhydride or a diester ter ephthalic and / or isophthalic and / or sulfoisophthalic and a diol, such as polyester copolymers based on ethylene terephthalate and / or propylene terephthalate and polyoxyethylene terephthalate units, (US-A-3,959,230, US-A-3,893 929, US-A-4,116,896, US-A-4,702,857, US-A-4,770,666); sulfonated polyester oligomers obtained by sulfonation of an oligomer derived from ethoxylated allyl alcohol, dimethyl terephthalate and 1,2-propylene diol (US-A-4,968,451). polyester copolymers based on propylene terephthalate and polyoxyethylene terephthalate units and terminated with ethyl, methyl units (US-A-4,711,730) or polyester oligomers terminated by alkylpolyethoxy groups (US-A-4,702,857) or groups sulfopolyethoxy anionics (US-A-4,721,580), sulfoaroyles (US-A-4,877,896). polyesters-polyurethanes obtained by reacting a polyester obtained from adipic acid and / or terephthalic acid and / or sulfoisophthalic acid and a diol on a prepolymer with terminal isocyanate groups obtained from a polyoxyethylene glycol and a diisocyanate (FR-A-2 334 698). ethoxylated monoamines or polyamines, ethoxylated amine polymers (US-A-4,597,898, EP-A-1, 1988). sulphonated polyester oligomers obtained by condensation of isophthalic acid, dimethyl sulphosuccinate and diethylene glycol (FR-A-2,236,926). polyester copolymers derived from dimethylterephthalate, isophthalic acid, dimethyl sulfoisophthalate and ethylene glycol (EP-A-540374). copolymers comprising polyester units derived from dimethylterephthalate, isophthalic acid, dimethyl sulfoisophthalate and ethylene glycol and polyorganosiloxane units (FR-A-2 728 915).

In addition, cationic resins can also be used. These cationic resins are derived in whole or in part from cationic monomers, for example dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate or diallyldimethylammonium chloride, or mixtures thereof.

 The cosmetic compositions which are the subject of the invention may also contain polymeric derivatives other than cationic polysaccharides (Pcat) exerting a protective or moisturizing function of the skin.

These polymeric derivatives may be present in amounts of about 0.01-10%, preferably about 0.1-5%, and most preferably about 0.2-3% by weight.

By way of example, mention may be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers such as collagen or certain non-allergenic derivatives of animal or vegetable proteins (hydrolysates of wheat proteins for example), natural hydrocolloids (guar gum, carob gum, tara gum, ) or from fermentation processes such as xanthan gum and derivatives of these polycarbohydrates such as modified celluloses (for example hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, or nonionic derivatives (for example hydroxypropylguar), anionic derivatives (carboxymethylguar) or mixed derivatives non-ionic / anionic, such as carboxy hydroxypropyl guars, or alternatively synthetic polymers such as polyacrylates or synthetic cationic polymers, known under the CTFA generic name of "Polyquaternium", for example polymers MIRAPOL A15 or MIRAPOL 550 from the company RHONE-POULENC. Silicone derivatives, in particular high molecular weight polydialkylsiloxanes, can be added, these products being present in the form of dispersions.

Other humectants or moisturizers may be constituted by lanolin derivatives, mineral oils or paraffinic oils, perhydrosqualane, squalene, diols such as 1 -2-propanediol, 1 -3-butanediol,
Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, polyethylene glycols or polypropylene glycols, fatty esters such as isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, myristyl myristate, esters of the acid lactic acid, stearic acid,
Behenaric acid, isostearic acid, silicone oils comprising cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes, hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxanes, α-trimethylsilylated polydimethylsiloxanes, polyorganosiloxanes such as polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, polydiphenylsiloxanes, amino derivatives of silicones, silicone waxes silicone copolyethers (such as SILBIONE 70646 sold by the company RHONE-POULENC or DC 190 marketed by Dow Corning) or mixed silicone derivatives including various types of derivatization (such as mixed copolymers polyalkylmethylsiloxanes-si-copolyethers) ).

 To protect the skin or the hair from sun and UV rays, it is possible to add to these formulations sunscreens which are either chemical compounds that strongly absorb UV radiation, such as the compounds authorized in the European Directive No. 76/768 / EEC, its annexes and subsequent amendments to this Directive either titanium dioxide or cerium oxides in the form of powder or colloidal particles.These powders may optionally be surface-treated to increase the effectiveness of their action against UV or to facilitate their incorporation into cosmetic formulations or to inhibit surface photoreactivity.

To these compounds, it is possible to add, in combination, powders or mineral particles such as calcium carbonate, inorganic oxides in the form of powder or in colloidal form (particles of smaller size or of the order of a micrometer, sometimes of some tens nanometers) such as titanium dioxide, silica, aluminum salts generally used as antiperspirants, kaolin, talc, clays and their derivatives
It is also possible to incorporate in the composition bactericidal or fungicidal agents in order to improve the disinfection of the skin, such as, for example, triclosan.

 Preservatives such as methyl 3 ethyl, propyl and butyl esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid, sodium benzoate, GERMABEN (brand name) or any chemical agent avoiding bacterial growth or mold and traditionally used in cosmetic compositions are generally introduced in these compositions in an amount of 0.01 to 3% by weight. The amount of these products is generally adjusted to prevent any proliferation of bacteria, molds or yeasts in the cosmetic compositions.

 Fragrances, dyes or pigments may be added to increase the approval when the composition is used by the consumer.

Thus, the cosmetic compositions which are the subject of the invention may also contain any type of product intended to temporarily modify the external coloring of a body surface. By way of examples, mention may be made of hair dyes, make-up products such as lipsticks, nail polishes, or eyelash and eyelash products.

Among the coloring agents that can be used as constituents of the cosmetic compositions that are the subject of the invention, mention may be made of the products described in the appendix
IV ("list of colouring agents for use in cosmetic products") of European Directive 76/768 / EEC of 27 July 1976, known as the Cosmetic Directive.

 The composition may also contain viscosifying or gelling polymers, such as crosslinked polyacrylates -CARBOPOL marketed by GOODRICH-, cellulose derivatives such as hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, guars and their derivatives, carob, gum tara or cassia, xanthan gum, alginates, carrageenans, chitin derivatives such as chitosan ... used alone or in combination, or the same compounds, generally in the form of water-soluble polymers modified with covalently linked hydrophobic groups to the polymer backbone as described in WO 92/16187 and / or water to bring the total of the constituents of the formulation to 100%.

The cosmetic compositions which are the subject of the invention may also contain polymeric dispersing agents in an amount of the order of 0.1-7% by weight, for controlling the hardness of calcium and magnesium, agents such as water-soluble salts of polycarboxylic acids with a molecular mass of the order of 2,000 to 100,000, obtained by polymerization or copolymerization of ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, maleic acid or anhydride, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, aconitic acid, mesaconic acid, acid citraconic, methylenemalonic acid, and especially polyacrylates with a molecular weight of about 2,000 to 10,000 (US-A-3,308,067), copolymers of acrylic acid and maleic anhydride of molecular weight of 5,000 to 75,000 (EP-A-66,915). polyethylene glycols with a molecular mass of the order of 1000 to 50 000
The wax compositions may also be found as paraffin waxes, natural waxes such as beeswax or ozokerite or silicone waxes.

 The following examples are given for illustrative purposes.

Example 1
In a 2-liter glass reactor equipped with a paddle-type stirrer, 880 g of EMPICOL BSD 52 (aqueous solution of sodium magnesium lauryl sulfate at 52% by weight of solids, marketed by ALBRIGHT & WILSON) are introduced. ), then with stirring, 60 g of propylene glycol; this mixture is stirred at ambient temperature until a homogeneous paste is obtained; the pH of this premix (B) is then adjusted to 12 with a concentrated solution of sodium hydroxide.

On the other hand, in a 100 ml Erlenmeyer flask provided with mechanical stirring, 309 propylene glycol is introduced; then 309 of JAGUAR 14S (hydroxypropyl trimonium guar chloride marketed by RHONE-POULENC) are introduced with stirring, thus obtaining a premix dispersion (A).

The premix (A) is then incorporated into the premix (B); the resulting mixture is then stirred for 30 minutes until a slightly yellow dispersion is obtained which tends to gel on storage.

The evolution of its viscosity (mPa.s., Brookfield, sp4, lOtours / minutes) as a function of time is as follows

<tb> tem <SEP> s <SEP> bear) <SEP> viscosity <SEP> mPa.s.
<Tb>

<SEP> P
<tb><SEP> 0 <SEP> 4250
<tb><SEP> 1 <SEP> 4500
<tb><SEP> 8 <SEP> 4050
<tb><SEP> 30 <SEP> 3260
<Tb>
Example 2
In a 2-liter glass reactor equipped with a paddle-type agitator, 4509 EMPICOL BSD 70 (aqueous sodium lauryl sulfate solution containing 70% by weight of dry extract, marketed by ALBRIGHT & WILSON) and 300g of an aqueous solution of sodium cocoamphoacetate (solution at 32% by weight of dry extract). 160 g of sodium chloride solution (at 30% by weight of dry extract) are then added to this mixture with stirring. After stirring at ambient temperature until a homogeneous paste is obtained, 50 g of hexylene glycol are added with stirring; the pH of this premix (B) is then adjusted to 12 with a concentrated solution of sodium hydroxide.

On the other hand, in a 100 ml Erlenmeyer flask equipped with a mechanical stirrer, 20 g of hexylene glycol are introduced; 30 g of JAGUAR 14S (hydroxypropyl trimonium guar chloride marketed by RHONE-POULENC) are then introduced with stirring; this gives a premix dispersion (A).

The premix (A) is then incorporated into the premix (B); the resulting mixture is then stirred for 30 minutes until a slightly yellow dispersion is obtained which tends to gel on storage.

The evolution of its viscosity (mPa.s., Brookfield, sp4, lOtours / minutes) as a function of time is as follows

<tb> tem <SEP> s <SEP> bear) <SEP> viscosity <SEP> mPa.s.
<Tb>

<SEP> P
<tb><SEP> 0 <SEP> 1020
<tb><SEP> 1 <SEP> 950
<tb><SEP> 8 <SEP> 780
<tb><SEP> 30 <SEP> 670
<Tb>
Example 3
In a 2-liter glass reactor equipped with a paddle-type stirrer, 533 g of EMPICOL BSD 70 (aqueous sodium lauryl sulfate solution containing 70% by weight of solids, marketed by ALBRIGHT & WILSON) are introduced. . 346 g of sodium chloride solution (at 25.7% by weight of dry extract) are then added to this mixture with stirring. After stirring at ambient temperature until a homogeneous paste is obtained, 61 g of hexylene glycol are added with stirring; the pH of this premix (B) is then adjusted to 12 with a concentrated solution of sodium hydroxide.

On the other hand, in a 100 ml Erlenmeyer flask equipped with a mechanical stirrer, 30 g of hexylene glycol are introduced; 30 g of JAGUAR 14S (hydroxypropyl trimonium guar chloride marketed by RHONE-POULENC) are then introduced with stirring; this gives a premix dispersion (A).

The premix (A) is then incorporated into the premix (B); the resulting mixture is then stirred for 30 minutes until a slightly yellow dispersion having a viscosity of 650 mPa.s is obtained. (Brookfield, sp4, lOtours / minutes).

Example 4
Use of the concentrated dispersion comprising cationic guar (DCSPcat) of Example 3 in a shampoo preformulation.

A shampoo formulation is prepared by adding, with stirring at room temperature, 330 g of the dispersion (D.C.S.Pcat) of Example 3 to 670 g of deionized water.

After stirring for 5 minutes, the pH of the mixture is adjusted to 6 with citric acid.

We obtain a fluid solution whose viscosity (Brookfield, sp4, 10toursiminutes) is the following

<tb> time <SEP> (days) <SEP> viscosity <SEP> mPa.s.
<tb><SEP> 0 <SEP> 1620
<tb><SEP> 1 <SEP> 2730
<Tb>

A comparative shampoo formulation of the following composition is prepared conventionally, with adjustment to pH 6 using citric acid.

<Tb>

<SEP> ingredients <SEP> gl100g <SEP>
<tb><SEP> JAGUAR <SEP> Cl4S <SEP> 0.9
<tb> EMPICOL <SEP> BSE <SEP> 70 <SEP> 17.6
<tb><SEP> hexylene <SEP> glycol <SEP> 3
<tb> chloride <SEP> of <SEP> sodium <SEP> 2.9
<tb><SEP> water <SEP> deionized <SEP> qsp <SEP> 100
<tb><SEP> time <SEP> bear) <SEP> viscosity <SEP> mPa.s.
<Tb>

<SEP> 0 <SEP> 2340
<tb><SEP> 1 <SEP> 2900
<Tb>
It is found that the shampoo formulation obtained using the dispersion (DCSPcat) of Example 3 shows no significant difference from the shampoo formulation obtained conventionally.

Example 5
In a 2-liter glass reactor equipped with a paddle-type stirrer, 450 g of EMPICOL BSD 70 (aqueous solution of sodium lauryl sulfate with 70% by weight of dry extract, marketed by ALBRIGHT & WILSON), 300 g of an aqueous solution of sodium cocoamphoacetate (solution at 32% by weight of solids) and 50 g of hexylene glycol. Then added to this mixture with slow stirring, a sodium chloride solution containing xanthan gum, prepared extemporaneously by adding 2 g of RHODICARE S (xanthan gum marketed by RHONE-POULENC) to a solution of 40 g of sodium chloride in 1 28g of deionized water. The pH of this premix (B) is then adjusted to 12 using a concentrated solution of sodium hydroxide.

On the other hand, in a 100 ml Erlenmeyer flask provided with mechanical stirring, 15 g of hexylene glycol are introduced; 15 g of JAGUAR 14S (hydroxypropyl trimonium guar chloride marketed by RHONE-POULENC) are then introduced with stirring; this gives a premix dispersion (A).

The premix (A) is then incorporated into the premix (B); the resulting mixture is then stirred for 30 minutes until a slightly yellow dispersion of pH 8.8, which tends to gel on storage, is obtained. Its viscosity is 5900mPa.s.

(Brookfield, sp4, 1 Otours / minutes).

Example 6
In a 2-liter glass reactor, equipped with a paddle-type stirrer, 370 g of EMPLOO BSD 70 (aqueous sodium lauryl sulfate solution containing 70% by weight of solids, marketed by ALBRIGHT & WILSON), 170g of deionized water and 60g of sodium chloride. The pH of this premix (B) is then adjusted to 12 using a concentrated solution of sodium hydroxide.

On the other hand, in a 1000 ml Erlenmeyer flask equipped with a mechanical stirrer, 200 g of hexylene glycol are introduced; 200 g of JAGUAR 14S (hydroxypropyl trimonium guar chloride marketed by RHONE-POULENC) are then introduced with stirring, thus obtaining a premix dispersion (A).

The premix (A) is then incorporated with stirring into the premix (B); the resulting mixture is then stirred for 30 minutes until a slightly yellow dispersion is obtained which tends to gel on storage.

The evolution of its viscosity (mPa.s., Brookfield, sp4, lOtours / minutes) as a function of time is as follows

<tb> time <SEP> bear) <SEP> viscosity <SEP> mPa.s.
<Tb>

<SEP> 0 <SEP> 1650
<tb><SEP> 1 <SEP> 2000
<tb><SEP> 8 <SEP> 1910
<tb><SEP> 30 <SEP> 1730
<Tb>
Example 7
In a 2 liter glass reactor equipped with a paddle-type stirrer, 370 g of EMPICOL BSD 70 (70 wt.% Aqueous solution of lauryl sulphate in solids, marketed by ALBRIGHT & WILSON) and 50g of hexylene glycol. Then added to this mixture with slow stirring, a sodium chloride solution containing xanthan gum, prepared extemporaneously by addition of 2 g of RHODICARE S (xanthan gum marketed by RHONE
POULENC) to a solution of 60 g of sodium chloride in 68 g of deionized water.

The pH of this premix (B) is then adjusted to 12 using a concentrated solution of sodium hydroxide.

On the other hand, in a 1000 ml Erlenmeyer flask provided with mechanical stirring, 150 g of hexylene glycol are introduced; 200 g of JAGUAR 14S (hydroxypropyl trimonium guar chloride marketed by RHONE-POULENC) are then introduced with stirring, thus obtaining a premix dispersion (A).

The premix (A) is then incorporated into the premix (B); the resulting mixture is then stirred for 30 minutes until a slightly yellow dispersion of pH 8.9, which tends to gel on storage, is obtained. Its viscosity is 5990mPa.s.

(Brookfield, sp4, 1 Otours / minutes).

Claims (29)

 1) stable concentrated aqueous dispersions (D.C.S.Pcat) of a system consisting of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide and at least one surfactant, characterized in that they comprise  - On the order of 0.5 to 30% by weight, expressed as dry matter, of particles of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat)  - About 20 to 50% by weight, expressed as solids of at least one surfactant (TA)  at least one hydrocarbon compound (OH) comprising at least one hydroxyl group, with a molecular mass of less than 1000, in an amount corresponding to approximately 0.1 to 10, preferably approximately 0.5 to 5 parts by weight per part of polymer ( pcat)  - Of the order of 0 to 10%, preferably of the order of 2 to 6% by weight of a water-soluble inorganic salt (Sinorg)  from 0 to about 1%, preferably of the order of 0.25 to 0.75% by weight of a stabilizing agent (Stab)  - Of the order of 5 to 50% water (W).  2) Concentrated aqueous dispersions (D.C.S.Pcat) according to claim 1), characterized in that the water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) is a cationic water-soluble or water-dispersible derivative of a natural polysaccharide of animal or vegetable or semisynthetic origin.  3) concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) according to claim 1) or 2), characterized in that the water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) has a molecular mass of at least 20,000, preferably of the order of 200,000 to 3,000,000.  4) Concentrated aqueous dispersions (D.C.S.Pcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 3), characterized in that the water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) is a cationic derivative of guar.  5) concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 4), characterized in that the water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) is hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride or hydroxypropyltrimonium hydroxypropyl guar chloride .  6) concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 5), characterized in that the agent (s) surfactant (s) (TA) is (are) chosen (s) from anionic, nonionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.  7) concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 6), characterized in that the agent (s) surfactant (s) (TA) is (are) chosen (s) among the anionic surfactants, optionally combined with at least one amphoteric surfactant.  8) concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 7), characterized in that the agent (s) surfactant (s) (TA) is (are) chosen (s) among the alkyl sulphates and / or alkyl ether sulphates and / or alkyl taurates, optionally combined with at least one alkyl betaine and / or alkyl alkyl dopamine and / or an alkylamphoacetate or diacetate.  9) concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 8), characterized in that the organic compound (OH) hydroxyl group is a monoalcohol, a polyalcohol or a sugar, lower molecular weight at 1000.  10) concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 9), characterized in that the organic compound (OH) containing hydroxyl group, is an aliphatic monoalcohol containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, a aliphatic diol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, an aliphatic polyol or a polyalkylene glycol with a molecular weight of less than 1000.  11) concentrated aqueous dispersions (D.C.S.Pcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 10), characterized in that the organic compound (OH) hydroxyl group is propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol.  12) concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 11), characterized in that the water-soluble inorganic salt (Sinorg), is sodium chloride, sodium sulfate, ammonium sulfate .  13) concentrated aqueous dispersions (D.C.S.Pcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 12), characterized in that the optional stabilizing agent (Stab) is xanthan gum or succinoglycan.  14) A process for the preparation of stable concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) of a system consisting of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide and at least one surfactant, characterized by the addition of a premix ( A) to a premix (B), - said premix (A) being free from water and consisting of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) used in the form of a powder and at least one a hydrocarbon compound (OH) in liquid form with a molecular weight of less than 1000 comprising at least one hydroxyl group, - said premix (B) having a viscosity of less than 50,000 mPa.s., and consisting of water, from at least one surfactant (TA), optionally a water-soluble inorganic salt (Sinorg), optionally at least one stabilizing agent (Stab) and optionally a hydrocarbon compound (OH) in liquid form with a molecular weight less than 1000 comprising at least one hydroxyl group, said premix (B) having a pH such that it is not capable of hydrating the cationic polysaccharide (Pcat), the relative amounts of the various constituents of the premixes (A) and (B) being , per 100 parts by weight of all the constituents,  - On the order of 0.5 to 30 parts by weight, expressed as dry matter, of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat)  - About 20 to 50 parts by weight, expressed as solids of at least one surfactant (TA)  from 0 to 10 parts, preferably from 2 to 6 parts by weight, of a water-soluble inorganic salt (Inorg)  from 0 to about 1 part, preferably from about 0.25 to 0.75 part by weight of a stabilizing agent (Stab)  from about 5 to 50 parts by weight of water (W)  the amount of hydrocarbon compound (OH) with a molecular weight of less than 1000 having at least one hydroxyl group corresponding to approximately 0.1 to 10, preferably of the order of 0.5 to 5 parts by weight per part of cationic polysaccharide ( Pcat), at least 0.5 parts by weight per part of cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) of said hydrocarbon compound (OH) being present in the premix (A).  15) Process according to claim 14), characterized in that the water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) is a cationic water-soluble or water-dispersible derivative of a natural polysaccharide of animal or vegetable or semisynthetic origin.  16) Process according to claim 14) or 15), characterized in that the water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) has a molecular mass of at least 20 000, preferably of the order of 200 000 to 3 000 000 .  17) Process according to any one of claims 14) to 16), characterized in that the water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) is a cationic derivative of guar.  18) Process according to any one of claims 14) to 17), characterized in that the water-soluble or water-dispersible cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) is hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride or hydroxypropyltrimonium hydroxypropyl guar chloride.  19) Process according to any one of claims 14) to 18), characterized in that the agent (s) surfactant (s) (TA) is (are) selected (s) among the anionic surfactants , nonionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic.  20) Process according to any one of claims 14) to 19), characterized in that the agent (s) surfactant (s) (TA) is (are) chosen (s) among the anionic surfactants, optionally combined with at least one amphoteric surfactant.  21) Process according to any one of claims 14) to 20), characterized in that the agent (s) surfactant (s) (TA) is (are) selected (s) among the alkylsulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates and / or alkyltaurates, optionally combined with at least one alkylbetaine and / or alkylamidopropylbétaine and / or alkylamphoacétate or diacétate.  22) Process according to any one of claims 14) to 21), characterized in that the organic compound (OH) hydroxyl group is a monoalcohol, a polyalcohol or a sugar, molecular weight less than 1000.  23) Process according to any one of claims 14) to 22), characterized in that the organic compound (OH) containing hydroxyl group, is an aliphatic monoalcohol containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, an aliphatic diol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aliphatic polyol, a polyalkylene glycol of molecular weight less than 1000.  24) Process according to any one of claims 14) to 23), characterized in that the organic compound (OH) hydroxyl group is propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol.  25) Process according to any one of claims 14) to 24), characterized in that the water-soluble inorganic salt (Sinorg), is sodium chloride, sodium sulfate, ammonium sulfate.  26) Method according to any one of claims 14) to 25), characterized in that the optional stabilizing agent (Stab) is xanthan gum or succinoglycan.  27) The use of concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) according to any one of claims 1) to 13) or obtainable by the method forming the subject of any one of claims 14) to 26), for the preparation of liquid or solid cosmetic compositions, in an amount of about 0.1 to 3 parts by weight of cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) per 100 parts by weight of cosmetic composition.  28) Use according to claim 27) for the preparation of liquid or solid cosmetic compositions in the hair field, personal hygiene or oral hygiene.  29) Cosmetic compositions, in particular in the hair, body hygiene or oral hygiene field, comprising the concentrated aqueous dispersions (DCSPcat) forming the subject of any of claims 1) to 13) or capable of to be obtained according to the method according to any one of claims 14) to 26), in an amount of the order of 0.1 to 3 parts by weight of cationic polysaccharide (Pcat) per 100 parts by weight of cosmetic composition.