FR2606279A1 - New compositions containing Oenothera oil and products that block the formation of singlet oxygen and free radicals - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological compositions for care of the skin, which contain Oenothera oil in combination with one or more products that block the formation of singlet oxygen and free radicals.

Description

 The present invention relates to novel skin care compositions comprising evening primrose oil and spleen tissue extracts.

 The subject of the invention is new cosmetic or dermatological compositions for skin care, characterized in that they contain evening primrose oil combined with tissue extracts from the spleen.

 These new compositions are intended in particular to delay the signs of aging of the skin.

 As the skin aging develops, changes occur, especially at the epidermal and dermal level.

 Within the epidermis, the production of new cells no longer compensates for flaking and the epidermis gradually thins.

 The sebaceous glands are less functionally active and the skin becomes dry.

 In the dermis, the formation of young collagen, responsible for skin tone, slows down by reducing the secretory activity of fibroblasts. Intermolecular cross-links within collagen fibers multiply, resulting in structural rigidity, a reduction in water absorption capacity, a decrease in nutritional and oxygen intake.

 These harmful transformations cause a loss of elasticity, dehydration, asphyxia and dry skin.

 These phenomena lead to the appearance of wrinkles, especially in the face where the skin is particularly attacked by factors of external origin (bad weather, pollution, light radiation) and by factors of internal origin (diseases, increased 'age).

 Many cosmetic preparations intended to fight aging of the skin already exist on the market.

 These preparations contain a wide variety of compounds, such as biological extracts, for example placental extracts, collagen, polyvitamin mixtures, essential fatty acids.

 However, never before had evening primrose oil been associated, very effective in combating skin dryness for the reasons mentioned above, with particular tissue extracts, namely spleen extracts, very active against slowing skin cell activity.

 One of the essential constituents of cosmetic or dermatological compositions, according to the invention, is evening primrose oil, a substance particularly rich in essential polyunsaturated fatty acids, essential nutrients for the body but which it cannot synthesize itself. even.

 However, the deficiency in polyunsaturated essential fatty acids, which increases with age, leads to three skin symptoms - dry skin, - loss of elasticity, - loss of transepidermal water.

 Evening primrose oil, thanks to its richness in essential fatty acids, including -linolenic acid, promotes the regeneration of epidermal cells.

 Indeed, polyunsaturated fatty acids (linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid) are essential for the integrity of cell membranes.

 They intervene in the role of barrier conferred on the epidermis which controls the loss of water from the skin.

 The topical contribution of these 3 essential fatty acids and in particular of the acid (-linolenic thus makes it possible to preserve the hydration of the skin.

 Tissue extracts from the spleen constitute the second essential constituent contained in the cosmetic and dermatological compositions according to the invention. They contain a mixture of peptides and proteins obtained by proteolysis of spleen of bovine origin.

 The spleen is an organ with a very active metabolism, rich in basic cellular nutrients and in particular, in energetic intermediates. It has been shown that spleen extracts stimulate the growth and multiplication of cells, in particular fibroblasts and increase the activation of cell metabolism by increasing cellular respiratory activity (increased oxygen consumption by fibroblasts).

 These latter properties prevent the decrease in cellular metabolic activity, the main cause of the appearance of signs of aging.

 Tissue extracts from the spleen are beneficial for the activity of fibroblast cells in the dermis. Evening primrose oil, as already mentioned above, has beneficial effects in preventing epidermal aging and improving the seed coat.

 It was therefore interesting to combine the two active ingredients in order to obtain cosmetic or dermatological preparations with synergistic action on the two skin compartments (epidermal and dermal) affected during aging.

 To this end, the association has been made and the Applicant has been able to observe that the regular application of the compositions according to the invention allows a very noticeable improvement in the hydration and flexibility of the skin as well as a reduction in wrinkles. .

 The invention relates in particular to cosmetic or dermatological compositions, characterized in that they contain 2 to 20 2 by weight of evening primrose oil and 2 to 10 tt by weight of spleen tissue extracts.

 The compositions of the invention can also contain adenosine triphosphate (ATP) as such or in the form of phosphorylated riboside or salts and adenosine 3'-5 'cyclic monophosphate (cyclic AMP); both products increase and / or preserve the energy potential of skin cells because ATP is the main energy element of the cell and cyclic VAMP the intracellular messenger responsible for all the phosphorylations essential to a certain number of reactions such than the energy use of carbohydrates (glycogenolysis) and lipids (lipolysis of triglycerides).

 The invention therefore relates to compositions as defined above, characterized in that they also contain adenosine triphosphate (ATP) and in particular characterized in that they contain 0.01 to 5> by weight of adenosine triphosphate.

 A subject of the invention is also compositions as defined above, characterized in that they additionally contain adenosine 3'-5 'cyclic monophosphate (cyclic AMP) and in particular characterized in that they contain 0, 01 to 5 by weight of adenosine 3'-5 'cyclic monophosphate.

 The compositions can also contain caffeine or theophylline or any product capable of containing them, for example: tea, coffee. In fact, caffeine and theophylline are methyl-xanthines inhibitors of phosphodiestenase, an enzyme responsible for the degradation of cyclic AMP, thus making it possible to maintain the level of cyclic AMP in the compositions.

Optionally, the compositions according to the invention may also contain small amounts of filters or screens for solar radiation. These are, for example, filters for UVA and UVB radiation such as, for example, hydroxy 2-methoxy 4-benzophene, dimethoxy 3,4-phenyl glyoxylic acid in the form of the sodium salt. These compositions according to the invention may also contain products blocking the formation of free radicals and singlet oxygen. These products stop solar radiation other than UV. These products are, for example, terpenes, fat-soluble extract of
carrot, -tocopherol.

The compositions also advantageously contain antioxidants such as for example <-oryzanol. All substances mentioned
above protect the skin from all harmful solar radiation and obtain a very effective photoprotective action.

 The compositions according to the invention may optionally contain humectants promoting hydration of the skin, such as urea, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and its salts, vitamin extracts, perfumes, preservatives, dyes.

 Collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, substances known to have beneficial properties on the skin, can also be present in the compositions of the invention.

 You can add horsetail extract or any other substance containing silicon, which improves the effects of collagen and hyaluronic acid.

 The cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention can be in any form used in cosmetology cream or gel in jars or in tubes, milk or oil, lotion in a glass or plastic bottle and possibly in a dosing bottle, or else in ampoules.

 The invention therefore relates to cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that they are in the form of cream, gel, milk, lotion or oil for the skin and very particularly, cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that their excipients are suitable when applied to the face and the neck.

 Indeed, for each form, use is made of suitable excipients. These excipients must have all the qualities usually required. They must have a great affinity for the skin, be perfectly tolerated, stable, have an adequate consistency allowing easy and pleasant use. As examples of excipients which can be used, there may be mentioned, for the cream form, the mixture of isopropyl myristate, glycerol stearate, sweet almond oil, cetyl alcohol, polyol (respectively 5 g 15 g - 6 g - 1 g - 5 g per 100 g of distilled water).

 The emulsifiers are, for example, a mixture of polyoxyethylenated methyl glucoside sesquistearate (20) and methyl glucoside sesquistearate.

 For the milk form, the combination of sorbitan monostearate, polyoxyethyl cetyl ether, petrolatum oil, isopropyl palmitate, beeswax, polyol (respectively 1 - 3 g - 5 g - 5 g - 1 g - 5 g for 100 g of distilled water). For the gel form, for example, a carboxyvinyl polymer is used combined with triethanolamine and a fatty acid ester (respectively 3 g - 3 g - 5 g - per 100 g of distilled water). For the oil form, triglycerides of fatty acids associated with perhydrosqualene (respectively 30 g and 20 g per 100 g of vegetable oils).

 The various cosmetic forms mentioned above can be obtained according to the usual methods used in this field.

 The following examples illustrate the invention without, however, limiting it.

EXAMPLE 1: Cream.

- fatty acid esters .................................... 7 g - cetyl alcohol ... ..................................... 1 g - glycerol and PEG 100 stearate ... ................... 6 g - propylene glycol and fatty acid ester .............. 7 g - benzophenone. .......................................... 1 g - evening primrose oil. .................................. 5 g - propylene glycol ........... ....................... 5 g - preservatives ....................... ............. qs - carboxyvinyl polymer ............................... 0, 5 g - triethanol amine ......................................... 0.5 g - spleen tissue extract ............................... 3 g - aromatic composition ......... ......................... 9 g - distilled water qs ................... ................ 100 g
EXAMPLE 2: Milk.

- glycerol and PEG 100 stearate ........................ 5 g - vaseline oil ............ ............................. 3 g - silicone oil ............... .......................... 1 g - lanolin derivative .................. ...................... 8 g - evening primrose oil ..................... ....................... 3 g - sorbitol ....................... .......................... 5 g - tissue extract of spleen ................. ............... 2 g - carboxyvinyl polymer 0.5 g - triethanol friendly 0.5 g - preservatives qs - aromatic composition qs - distilled water qs ....... ............................. 100 g
Example 3: Cream.

- Natural and synthetic lipids .............. 15 g - Evening primrose oil ..................... ...................... 8 g - Mixture of mono, di. and trialkylglycolether-o-phosphates. 5 g - UV.A and UV.B sun filters ............................ 2 g - # -Orizanol .... ........................................... 0.5 g - Carboxy polymer vinyl ............................... 0.7 g - Triethanolamine ............ .............................. 0.6 g - Tissue extract from spleen ........... .................... 3 g - Coffee / tea extract ...................... ................ 5 g - Horsetail extract ............................ ............ 1 g - ATP disodium salt ................................ ........ 0.02g - Urea ..................................... ................ 0.5 g - Preservatives ............................ ................ qs

- Aromatic composition containing terpenes ............ q.s.

- Water ................................................ qs 100 g
Example 4: Cream.

- Glucate SS or methyl glucoside sesquistearate .......... 3 g - Glucamate SSE 20 or methyl glucoside polyoxyethylene 20
sesquistearate ........................................ 2 g - Evening primrose oil .. ......................................... 10 g - Esters of fatty acids. .................................... 7 g - Sterols of plant origin ...... ......................... 5 g - Fat-soluble carrot extract .................. ......... 0.2 g - # -Tocopherol (vitamin E) ............................. ... 0.05g - UV.A and UV.B sun filters ............................ 3 g - Magnesium aluminum silicate ............................. 1.2 g - Tissue extract from spleen ............ ................... 5 g - Preservatives ........................... ................. qs

- Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate ........................ 2 g - Hyaluronic acid ................ ....................... 0.03g - ATP phosphorylated riboside .................. ............ 0.025g - cyclic AMP ................................. ............ 0.02g - Aromatic composition ................................ ... 0.3 g - Water ......................................... ........ qs 100 g

Claims (4)

 CLAIMS 1.- Cosmetic or dermatological compositions for skin care, characterized in that they contain evening primrose oil associated with tissue extracts of spleen and with one or more products blocking the formation of free radicals and oxygen singlets. 2.- Compositions defined in claim 1, characterized in that The product blocking the formation of free oxygen radicals singlets is a terpene, a liposoluble extract of carrot, alpha-tocopherol. 3.- Compositions defined according to claims 1 and 2, characterized in that they are in the form of cream, gel, milk, lotion or oil for the skin. 4.- Compositions defined according to claims 1 to 3, characterized in that their excipients are suitable for application on the face and on the neck.