FR2656523A1 - Compositions for cosmetic and/or dermatological use, comprising metal pidolates - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to compositions for dermatological and/or cosmetic use, and more especially shampoos, combining copper pidolate and zinc pidolate.

Description

 The present invention relates to compositions for cosmetic and / or dermatological use, combining copper pidolate and zinc pidolate, and more particularly to compositions intended to be used as shampoos.

 The qualities required of a shampoo are as follows: it must allow to effectively clean the hair while leaving it soft, soft, shiny, easy to comb, and must eventually allow the correction of certain abnormal states of the hair and scalp. To achieve these goals, it is common practice to employ relatively complex formulations, generally associating one or more surfactants with, on the one hand, cosmetic and / or treating active ingredients, and, on the other hand, various additives having to make the use of the product easier and more enjoyable for the user.

 The surfactants used may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants.

 The anionic surfactants have the advantage of being able to be used in calcareous water, to provide an abundant foam and to be good detergents; however, they can cause irritation and be aggressive for the hair. These products are therefore frequently used in combination with nonionic surfactants, or with superfatting substances that prevent drying out of the hair. The anionic surfactants most frequently used are alkyl ether sulfates, in particular sodium, magnesium or triethanolamine lauryl ether sulphates.

 The cationic surfactants, which are represented in particular by the quaternary ammonium salts, have, due to their positive charge, an excellent affinity for the keratin of the hair, negatively charged. They thus facilitate disentangling by neutralizing the electrostatic charge. They also have antiseptic properties that make them frequently used in anti-dandruff shampoos. However, their foaming power and their cleaning power are low. In addition, they are very irritating vis-à-vis the ocular mucosa, and they are incompatible with anionic surfactants.

 The amphoteric surfactants are imidazole or betaine derivatives whose detergency and foaming power are intermediate between those of the anionic surfactants and those of the cationic surfactants. They are generally well tolerated, but at high concentrations, they weigh down the hair.

 Nonionic surfactants, among which mention may be made of polyethylene glycol derivatives, alkalonamides, amine oxides, natural saponins such as Panama wood, are increasingly used. They are compatible with other surfactants and are well tolerated; they are also good detergents, but they have low foaming power and are heavy. They are often used in combination with another surfactant, and give the formulation thus obtained superfatting and softening properties. They are very often used in mild shampoos for frequent use.

 Among the various adjuvants which have the effect of facilitating and making pleasant the use of the shampoo, there may be mentioned: sequestering agents whose role is to complex the calcium and magnesium ions of the rinsing water, in order to avoid the formation of precipitates which make the hair dull, preservatives and antiseptics whose purpose is to allow a good preservation of the product, thickeners which make it possible to avoid a composition too liquid, stabilizers of foam, and various substances making it possible to improve the aspect of the produced, for example, pearlescent agents, opacifiers and various fragrances and dyes.

 Shampoos can also contain various active ingredients that allow the improvement of certain abnormal states of the hair.

 Thus, in the case of dry hair, superfatting agents and conditioners, which have the effect of stripping the hair and facilitate their disentangling.

 In the case of oily hair, we use different active ingredients that have the effect of reducing sebaceous secretion and cleansing the scalp. These are for example: natural products, such as Panama wood and antiseptic essential oils, or synthetic products such as sulfur amino acids, vitamin B6, sebum solvents such as dipropylene glycol or antilipasic substances such as oleyl acetate.

 To fight against dandruff, we add to the shampoo anti-fungal and antiseptic products; mention may be made, for example, of quaternary ammoniums, zinc salts of magnesium, sodium, or 1-hydroxy-pyridinethione-2-ol, as well as reducing and keratolytic agents, such as cade oil, coaltar, salicylic acid.

 The inventors have sought formulations of shampoos, more particularly intended for the care and care of the scalp and hair with an alopecic tendency. Alopecia often develops on a seborrheic area, often associated with a fragile and irritable scalp, prone to itching, and susceptible to various fungal and / or bacterial infections. It is therefore particularly desirable to have mild shampoos, allowing frequent use without causing seborrhea reaction, and incorporating active ingredients themselves non-irritating, and having antiseborrheic and / or antiseptic properties.

 In their search for formulations and active principles possessing these qualities, the inventors have succeeded in developing an active ingredient possessing antiseborrhoeic, antiseptic and also anti-irritant properties. Said active ingredient is constituted by the combination of a zinc salt and a copper salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (which acid is also known as pidolic acid).

Some salts of pidolic acid are used in pharmacy and cosmetology: magnesium pidolate is used, in pharmacy, in the treatment of certain magnesium deficiency J sodium pidolate is included in the composition of NMF (Natural
Moisturizing Factor), a natural moisturizing factor frequently used in many moisturizing cosmetic products; zinc pidolate is used in the composition of an anti-seborrheic cosmetic cream.

On the other hand, neither the properties of copper pidolate, nor those of the combination of zinc pidolate and copper pidolate, were known in the prior art.

 It will be clear to one skilled in the art that, although the inventors have demonstrated the properties of the combination of copper pidolate / zinc pidolate during research on shampoo formulations, this combination can be used in any preparation cosmetic or dermatological.

 The present invention relates to a composition for cosmetic and / or dermatological use, characterized in that it comprises copper pidolate and zinc pidolate.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, said composition further comprises a gelatin hydrolyzate
Advantageously, said composition comprises between 0.3 and 0.4%, by weight, of copper pidolate, and 0.05 and 0.15%, by weight, of zinc pidolate.

 According to the invention, the combination of copper pidolate / zinc pidolate can be used in a shampoo whose composition also comprises humectants, a washing base, one or more volumizing agents, one or more foam precursors, a or more preservatives, one or more sheathing and nourishing agents.

 The copper pidolate / zinc pidolate combination, unlike most of the other antiseborrhoeic and antiseptic agents known, can be easily incorporated into a mild washing base composed of a combination of different surfactants, and in particular surfactants. nonionic actives.

 Copper pidolate and zinc pidolate can also be combined with other antiseptic or antiseborrheic agents.

Among the humectants that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of: sodium pidolate, urea, sorbitol, glycerol,
NMF, glycosaminoglycans, sodium lactate, milk proteins, guanidine salts, collagen, propylene glycol.

 The nonionic washing bases that may be used in the context of the present invention are, for example, ethoxylated fatty acids such as polyethylene glycol monooleate or polyethylene glycol monolaurate; primary fatty alcohols such as cetyl-stearyl alcohol, lauric-myristic alcohol, octyl-decyl alcohol; ethoxylated alkyl phenols such as ethoxylated nonyl phenol; fatty acid esters such as ethylene glycol stearate, glycerol stearate, or fatty acid esters of sorbitan or sucrose; fatty acid monoalkylolamides, such as coconut monoethanolamides, lauric monoethanolamides, coconut monoisopropanolamide, or lauric monoisopropanolamide; ethoxylated monoalkylolamides such as ethoxylated coconut monoalkylolamide; fatty acid dialkylolamides such as coconut diethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, oleic diethanolamides, and linoleic diethanolamides; alkyl ethers such as alkyl ether glycosides.

 Among the volumizing agents that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of cationic agents such as quaternary ammoniums; amphoteric agents such as beta-amino acids, betaines and amino-betaines, alkyl imidazoline; alkanolamides such as mono, monoiso, and diethanolamide; cellulosic derivatives; lanolin cholesterol; polyethylene glycol.

 Among the foam precursors that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of alkanolamides such as mono and di-ethanolamides.

 Among the preservatives that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of parabens, isothiazoline, sorbic acid, benzoic acid, phenol derivatives, alcoholic derivatives, imidazolinidyl-ureas and bromonitrodioxane.

 Among the forming agents that can be used in the context of the present invention, besides gelatin, mention may be made of amino acids, silicones, and chitin.

 Among the nourishing agents that may be used in the context of the present invention, besides gelatin, mention may be made of lanolin, cholesterol, egg yolk, placental extracts, amniotic fluid, amino acids, vitamins A, B, E, F, H, serine, tonics extracted from ginseng and rhubarb.

 Among the active antiseptic or regulatory principles of seborrhea which may in the context of the present invention be associated with the combination of copper pidolate / zinc pidolate, there may be mentioned for example algols, oxidants, lactic acid, boric acid, chlorhexidine, hexetidine, sulfur, sulfur amino acids, tars, plant extracts such as nettle, birch, witch hazel and vitamins A, H, B6 .

 Advantageously, the buffer of the shampoo solution is maintained at a pH of between 4.8 and 6.2. It is possible to use for this purpose boric acid, sorbic acid, or citric acid.

 The present invention will be better understood with the aid of the additional description which follows, which gives as an example the preparation of a shampoo containing the combination of copper pidolate / zinc pidolate according to the invention.

 It should be understood, however, that these examples are given solely by way of illustration of the object of the invention, of which they in no way constitute a limitation.

EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of a Composition According to the Invention for Use as a Shampoo
TABLE 1

<tb><SEP> DENOMINATION <SEP> NAME
<tb><SEP> COMMERCIAL <SEP> CHEMICAL
<tb> PROPYLENE <SEP> GLYCOL <SEP> PROPYLENE <SEP> GLYCOL <SEP> 5.00
<tb> TRITON <SEP> CG <SEP> 110-60 <SEP> ALKYL <SEP> GLUCOSIDE <SEP> 5.50
<tb> REWODERM <SEP> LI <SEP> 67/75 <SEP> MONO <SEP> AND <SEP> DIGLYCERIDE <SEP> FROM <SEP> 3.50
<tb><SEP> COCO
<tb> ORAMIDE <SEP> 200 <SEP> RF <SEP> DIETHANOLAMIDE <SEP> FROM <SEP> COPRAH <SEP> 1.00
<tb> TEXAPON <SEP> N <SEP> 40 <SEP> LAURYL <SEP> ETHER <SEP> SULFATE <SEP> FROM <SEP> Na <SEP> 8.00
<tb> COMPERLAN <SEP> KD <SEP> DIETHANOLAMIDE <SEP> FROM <SEP> COPRAH <SEP> 3.00
<tb> GLUCAMATE <SEP> DOE <SEP> 120 <SEP> PEG <SEP> 120 <SEP> ME.GLUCOSE <SEP> 0.50
<tb><SEP> DIOLEATE
<tb> GLYDANT <SEP> DIMETHYL <SEP> HYDANTININE <SEP> 0.30
<tb> PIDOLATE <SEP><SEP> Zn <SEP> PIDOLATE <SEP> FROM <SEP> Zn <SEP> 0.35
<tb> PIDOLATE <SEP> OF <SEP> Cu <SEP> PIDOLATE <SEP> FROM <SEP> Cu <SEP> 0.10
<tb> GELATIN <SEP> SOL <SEP> C <SEP> 1 <SEP> GELATIN <SEP> 1.50
<tb> ACID <SEP> CITRIC <SEP> ACID <SEP> CITRIC <SEP> 0.04
<tb> FRAGRANCE <SEP> PERFUME <SEP> 0,40
<tb> WATER <SEP> DEMINERALIZED <SEP> WATER <SEP> QSP <SEP> 100
<Tb>
The shampoo is prepared from the components indicated in Table I above, according to the following procedure
a) in a first step, the following components, which constitute the same phase, referred to as phase A: Propylene glycol, Triton CG 110-60, Rewoderm, are successively introduced into a stainless steel tank with planetary stirring at 25 ° C. LI 67-75, Oramide 200
AF, Texapon N40, Glydant, Comperlant KD, Glucamate DOE 120;
b) in a second step, with the addition of planetary stirring and at a temperature of 70 ° C., the demineralized water, which constitutes phase B, is added;
c) in a third step, the mixture is cooled to 45 ° C., then the following elements, which constitute phase C: zinc pidolate, copper pidolate, gelatin, and, optionally, perfume, the pH of the mixture is adjusted by citric acid, the final mixture is then cooled to a temperature of 25 ° C, maintaining stirring.

 As is apparent from the above, the invention is not limited to those of its modes of implementation, implementation and application which have just been described more explicitly; it encompasses all the variants that may come to the mind of the technician in the field, without departing from the scope or scope of the present invention.

Claims (6)

 1) Composition for cosmetic and / or dermatological use, characterized in that it comprises copper pidolate and zinc pidolate.  2) Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises a gelatin hydrolyzate  3) Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises between 0.3 and 0.4%, by weight, of copper pidolate, and 0.05 and 0.15%, in weight, zinc pidolate.  4) Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, for use as a shampoo, said composition being characterized in that it further comprises a washing base comprising at least one surfactant, and at least one humectant, at least one bulking agent, at least one foam precursor, at least one preservative, at least one sheathing and / or nourishing agent, at least one antiseptic and / or antiseborrheic agent.  5) Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that it comprises at least one nonionic surfactant  6) Composition according to any one of claims 4 or 5, characterized in that it consists of the mixture, in a suitable amount of water of: 5% by weight of propylene glycol, 5.5% by weight of an alkyl glucoside, 3.5% by weight of a mixture of mono- and diglycerides of coconut, 4% by weight of coconut diethanolamide, 8% by weight of sodium lauryl ether sulphate, 0.5% by weight of PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate, 0.3% by weight of dimethyl hydantoin, 0.35% by weight of zinc pidolate, 0.1% by weight of copper pidolate, 1.5% by weight of gelatin, 0.04 % by weight of citric acid, and optionally 0.4% by weight of a suitable perfume.