ES2827457T3 - Procedure for the preparation of a dyed fabric including a bacterial biopolymer and with a unique appearance - Google Patents

Abstract

A process for producing a treated fabric (100), comprising the following steps: a. providing at least a plurality of warp threads (2) and at least one plurality of weft threads (3); b. weaving said at least one plurality of warp yarns (2) with said at least one plurality of weft yarns (3) to provide a woven fabric (1), having a bundle (5) and a back (6); c. providing at least one layer (4) of at least one biopolymer that is produced by a microorganism on said yarns (2; 3) or on at least part of at least one face (5; 6) of said woven fabric (1) to providing a composite fabric (10); characterized in that said procedure comprises the steps of d. dyeing at least part of said composite fabric (10), whereby at least part of the yarns (2; 3) of the fabric are dyed together with said biopolymer layer (4); and. removing at least part of said biopolymer layer (4) from said composite fabric (10) to obtain a treated fabric (100).

Description

DESCRIPTION

Procedure for the preparation of a dyed fabric including a bacterial biopolymer and with a unique appearance

Field of the invention

The present invention relates to a process for the production of a fabric having a unique appearance, to a fabric obtained with said process and to articles of clothing, ie garments, which include said fabric. In particular, the present invention relates to a process for producing a woven fabric that has a single appearance, for example "used" (ie worn) or "multi-hued", said process comprising the use of a biopolymer that is produced by a microorganism. Background of the invention

Worn fabrics, especially denim, have enjoyed popularity in the fashion industry due in particular to the finishing procedures that can be applied to the fabric to create different looks and therefore different visible effects in the beam. of the fabric, that is, on the surface that is visible when the article constituted by the fabric is worn. In fact, success in the denim industry depends, to a large extent, on creativity derived from a variety of genre finishing procedures that give genres unique looks.

The external appearance of a fabric, and therefore of a clothing article made up of the fabric, can be modified using different finishing techniques.

JPH09279483 discloses a process in which a Fujiette rayon fabric is treated with a culture medium for a cellulose-producing bacterium, and the cellulose-producing bacterium is cultured on the surface of the rayon filaments that make up the fabric. until bacterial cellulose is produced in the desired amount.

A "used" or "old" or "worn" appearance can be achieved by treating the fabric with a finishing procedure that is generally carried out on the garment or on the fabric. Known finishing procedures can use specific chemicals, or mechanical abrasion, such as procedures using stone washing, acid washing, laser treatment, and sandblasting. For example, in stone washing, the fabric is washed in a cylinder in the presence of pumice stones.

As the wash cylinder rotates, the stones make contact with the fabric, which will remove part of the fibers from the yarn including the dye present in these fibers.

In this case, when a fabric and, in particular, an indigo dyed woven fabric is used, the indigo dye being located on the surface of the yarns leaving the core of the yarns undyed, a finishing procedure of stonewashed (or sandblasted) to allow varying amounts of the undyed cores of the indigo colored threads to become visible.

These different finishing treatments result in different visible effects, in particular a worn appearance, that make the fabric fashionable in the textile and clothing industries. However, the visible effects and appearance that can be obtained by known finishing treatments are limited. Therefore, the garments created by different producers are often similar to each other, thus reducing the commercial attractiveness of the product and the possibility of differentiating one product from those of another producer. An additional disadvantage of a traditional stone wash is that the stones can damage the fabric.

Summary of the invention

An object of the present invention is to solve the problems mentioned above and to provide a process for the production of a fabric having a "unique" appearance; by "unique appearance" is meant here an appearance other than known ones, that is to say an appearance that could not previously be achieved with known finishing procedures, such as an improved "used" or "old" or "worn" appearance, in particular a distinctive worn look that could not previously be achieved with known procedures.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for the production of a fabric having a "unique" appearance that is commercially desirable, recognizable and easily distinguishable from other products. Yet another object of the present invention is to provide a method in which damage to the yarns and the fabric made therefrom is avoided or substantially reduced, during the manufacturing and finishing processes. A further object of the invention is to provide a finishing method that avoids or reduces the environmental costs of known finishing processes and which is less expensive than such processes.

These and other objectives are achieved by a method according to claim 1, which results in the production of a fabric according to claim 17, that is, a fabric suitable for the manufacture of a garment according to claim 19.

In particular, the present invention refers to a process for the production of a fabric, which comprises the following steps:

to. providing at least a plurality of warp yarns and at least a plurality of weft yarns;

b. weaving said at least one plurality of warp yarns with said at least one plurality of weft yarns to provide a woven fabric, having a bundle and a back;

c. providing at least one layer of at least one biopolymer that is produced by a microorganism on said yarns or on at least part of at least one face of said woven fabric to provide a composite fabric;

d. dyeing at least part of said composite fabric, whereby at least part of the yarns of the fabric are dyed together with said biopolymer layer;

and. removing at least part of said biopolymer layer from said composite fabric to obtain a treated fabric.

Preferred embodiments are listed in the dependent claims.

In an exemplary embodiment, after step d. and before stage e. the fabric is manufactured, that is, it is made into a garment; the finishing procedures can be applied to the fabric or the garment including the fabric. In the following description, reference is made to "gender" to also identify a garment in terms of finishing procedures, without limiting the scope of protection solely to the treatment of gender. In fact, the method of claim 1 can be carried out on the garment; the claim therefore encompasses the treatment of a fabric in a garment.

By means of a process according to the invention, a "treated fabric" can be obtained, that is to say a fabric woven after finishing procedures, with an improved aesthetic effect (that is, a "unique" one). The fabric obtained, ie the "treated" fabric, exhibits a "multi-tone" effect, in particular a "multi-tone" appearance, not previously available by known finishing methods. Specifically, the "multi-toned" effect obtained is a distinctive look, preferably a "worn" or "worn" look, comprising a plurality of color shades, which are distributed throughout the genre (and therefore throughout a garment that comprises it) according to a non-reproducible distribution, so that the same distribution of tones cannot be reproduced from one gender to another.

Without being limited to a specific scientific explanation, one possible explanation is that a biopolymer layer, which is produced by living microorganisms, may not be structurally identical to another biopolymer layer, even though it has been produced by the same microorganisms and under the same conditions. . Therefore, it has been observed that two different layers of biopolymer allow two different results of dyeing of the biopolymer layers themselves and also of the fabrics (or of the yarns) coupled therewith.

As mentioned above, by means of a process according to the invention, a "treated fabric" can be obtained, that is, a fabric woven after finishing procedures, with a "unique" aesthetic effect; in other words, two woven fabrics that are "treated" with the method of the invention, show two different aesthetic results, that is, the same distribution of color tones is not reproduced from one fabric to another. Therefore, each "treated fabric", obtained by the method of the invention, exhibits an aesthetic appearance that is substantially "unique", that is, an aesthetic appearance that is substantially "non-reproducible". The treated fabric of the invention, as obtained after removing at least part of the biopolymer layer from the dyed composite fabric, shows a plurality of color tones, depending on the amount of dye that has been absorbed by the biopolymer layer. and that it has reached the underlying tissue genus.

This is particularly true when, according to a preferred embodiment, said at least one biopolymer layer has a thickness "T" that is non-uniform throughout the entire length of the biopolymer layer, that is, it is not the same throughout. of the biopolymer layer.

In fact, without being limited to a specific scientific explanation, it has been observed that the dye absorption of the fabric endowed with the claimed biopolymer layer as obtained in step c. of the process of the invention, it is variable with respect to the variable thickness of the biopolymer layer.

In particular, it has been observed that the greater the thickness T, the greater the absorption of dye from the biopolymer layer, that is, the amount of dye that is absorbed by the biopolymer layer, and the smaller the amount of dye. that reaches the threads and dyes the threads equipped with the biopolymer layer. In other words, when, for example, a composite fabric comprises a biopolymer layer that has a non-uniform thickness (ie, "variable"), different amounts of dye reach the underlying surface (eg, the bundle) of the woven fabric. depending on the thickness of the biopolymer layer, so that the yarns of the fabric absorb different amounts of dye in different regions.

It should be noted that the thickness ("T") of the biopolymer layer of a composite fabric according to the invention and the amount of dye that reaches the woven fabric endowed with the biopolymer layer are inversely proportional. In other words, the greater the thickness of the biopolymer layer, the less the amount of dye that reaches the woven fabric endowed with the biopolymer layer. For example, if the thickness of the biopolymer layer of a composite fabric according to the invention is high, the biopolymer layer absorbs a large amount of dye and only a small amount of dye (or none) reaches the woven fabric endowed with the biopolymer layer. Therefore, after removal of the biopolymer layer, a treated fabric is obtained which is slightly colored (ie, which is colored in a light shade of color) or which is substantially non-colored. On the contrary, for example, if the thickness "T" of the biopolymer layer is low, the biopolymer layer absorbs a small amount of dye and therefore a high amount of dye reaches the surface (that is, for example , the bundle) of the woven fabric provided with the biopolymer layer. Therefore, after removal of the biopolymer layer, a treated fabric is obtained which is intensely colored (that is, which is colored in a dark shade of color).

As used herein, the term "thickness" refers to the distance between the top and bottom surfaces and the front and back surfaces of something; for example, the distance between the upper and lower surfaces of the biopolymer layer. The bottom surface of the biopolymer layer is the surface of the biopolymer layer that contacts the fabric or yarns. The upper surface of the biopolymer layer is the surface of the biopolymer layer, as opposed to the lower surface, that does not contact the fabric or the yarns.

As used herein, the term "uniform thickness" refers to a thickness that is substantially constant (substantially non-variable); for example, the distance between the upper and lower surfaces of the biopolymer layer does not change substantially over the entire length of the biopolymer layer.

Rather, as used herein, the term "non-uniform thickness" refers to a thickness that is variable; for example, the distance between the upper and lower surfaces of the biopolymer layer varies (ie, "shifts," ie, it is not constant) over the entire length of the biopolymer layer.

According to preferred embodiments, at least part of said biopolymer layer is a discontinuous layer.

For example, a biopolymer layer can be a discontinuous biopolymer layer, that is, a biopolymer layer can have interruptions throughout. In this case, for example, a fabric or yarn that is provided with a discontinuous biopolymer layer has regions on its surface (eg, the bundle of a woven fabric) that are not "covered" by the biopolymer layer.

Advantageously, considering, for example, a composite fabric (as can be obtained in step c. Of the process of the invention) in which the biopolymer layer is discontinuous, that is to say in which the biopolymer layer presents interruptions throughout its extension, the regions of the woven fabric endowed with the biopolymer layer turn out to be "not covered" by the biopolymer layer. Therefore, when the composite fabric is dyed according to step d. of the process of the invention, the regions of the woven fabric that are "not covered" by the biopolymer layer are completely and "directly" dyed; in other words, when the woven fabric is not "covered" by the biopolymer layer, the dye is applied directly on the woven fabric.

Advantageously, when a composite fabric comprises a discontinuous biopolymer layer, a treated fabric having a multi-tone patterning effect can be obtained.

In other words, a discontinuous biopolymer layer according to the invention may have a predetermined "pattern" distribution of "breaks" to provide a treated fabric with a predetermined pattern of regions of the woven fabric that are "fully" and "directly" dyed, as mentioned above. Therefore, once the biopolymer layer is removed according to step e. From the method of the invention, a treated fabric having a multi-tone effect can be obtained which further comprises a distribution of patterns in "fully" dyed regions. On the contrary, when the woven fabric is provided with the biopolymer layer, once the biopolymer layer is removed after dyeing, regions having a multi-hued effect are obtained, as defined above. In other words, the biopolymer layer can act as a "cliche" when the composite fabric is dyed.

According to embodiments of the invention, a variation in the weave pattern of the woven fabric provides additional visual effects. In fact, it has been observed that the weave pattern contributes to the final appearance.

According to a preferred embodiment, the biopolymer layer is a non-uniform discontinuous layer. In other words, a bacterial biopolymer according to the invention can have a variable thickness and interruptions throughout its entire length. According to embodiments of the invention, the woven fabric is provided with at least one biopolymer layer on at least the bundle and / or the underside.

As used herein, the term "bundle" of the fabric refers to the face of the fabric which is the outer face visible when wearing a garment comprising the fabric. As used herein, the term "underside" of the fabric refers to the side of the fabric which is the inner side not visible when wearing a garment comprising the fabric.

According to embodiments, the woven fabric is provided with at least one biopolymer layer both on the bundle and on the underside.

For example, a woven fabric according to the invention can be provided with two layers of biopolymer, specifically with a first layer of biopolymer in its bundle and with a second layer of biopolymer on its back, thus providing a composite fabric that It comprises a woven fabric and two layers of biopolymer.

According to exemplary embodiments, the first biopolymer layer (on the bundle) and the second biopolymer layer (on the back) may comprise the same or a different bacterial biopolymer.

As used herein, the terms "bacterial biopolymer layer", "bacterial polymer layer", "biopolymer layer" and "polymer layer" refer to a layer comprising at least one bacterial biopolymer.

As used herein, the terms "bacterial biopolymer" and "bacterial polymer" refer to all polymers that can be produced by a microorganism, the term "microorganism" encompassing non-genetically modified (ie wild-type) microorganisms. ) and genetically modified microorganisms. For example, a microorganism can be genetically modified to produce a bacterial biopolymer that is not produced by the same microorganism when it is not genetically modified (ie, when it is a wild-type microorganism).

As used herein, the term "microorganism" refers to small unicellular or multicellular living organisms that are too small to be seen with the naked eye, but are visible under a microscope, and encompasses bacteria, yeast, fungi, viruses. and algae. As mentioned above, the term "microorganism" encompasses non-genetically modified (ie wild-type) microorganisms and also genetically modified microorganisms.

In the present description, reference is made to a "bacterial biopolymer" for the sake of simplicity, without, however, limiting the scope of the invention to polymers produced solely by "bacteria", but encompasses all polymers that can be produced. by a microorganism, as defined above.

According to embodiments of the invention, the biopolymer layer comprises a sugar-based biopolymer or an amino acid-based biopolymer or a mixture thereof.

As used herein, the term "sugar-based biopolymer" encompasses linear or branched polysaccharides, variants, and derivatives thereof. An exemplary sugar-based biopolymer is cellulose.

As used herein, the term "amino acid-based biopolymer" encompasses linear and branched polypeptides, variants, and derivatives thereof. An exemplary amino acid-based biopolymer is collagen.

According to a preferred embodiment, said bacterial polymer is selected from bacterial cellulose, bacterial collagen or mixtures thereof.

According to preferred embodiments of the invention, said biopolymer layer comprises a bacterial biopolymer selected from cellulose, collagen, cellulose / chitin copolymer, silk and mixtures thereof. These biopolymers are known per se in the art.

For example, a biopolymer layer according to the invention (eg cellulose) can be produced by cultivating biopolymer producing microorganisms, preferably selected from bacteria, algae, yeast, fungi and mixtures thereof.

For example, a layer of bacterial collagen can be provided to the bundle of the woven fabric and a layer of bacterial cellulose can be provided to the underside of the woven fabric.

According to embodiments of the invention, biopolymer-producing bacteria are selected from the genera Gluconacetobacter, Aerobacter, Acetobacter, Achromobacter, Agrobacterium, Azotobacter, Salmonella, Alcaligenes, Pseudomonas; Rhizobium, Sarcina, Streptoccoccus, and Bacillus, and mixtures thereof. According to embodiments of the invention, the biopolymer producing algae are selected from Phaeophyta, Rhodophyta and Chrysophyta and mixtures thereof.

For example, bacterial cellulose can be produced by culturing Acetobacter bacteria strains, such as Acetobacter xylinum strains and / or by culturing Gluconacetobacter strains, such as Gluconacetobacter hansenii strains. For example, bacterial collagen can be produced by cultivating bacterial strains of Bacillus, Pseudomonas, Streptoccoccus, or bacterial strains that have been genetically modified to obtain modified strains that produce collagen. Advantageously, bacterial collagen can be produced in the fabric to provide an artificial leather-like material ("artificial leather" or "artificial fur", wherein the main structural component of the "leather" or "skin" is collagen from type I in the form of resistant fibrils). For example, a bacterial cellulose / chitin copolymer can be produced by cultivating Acetobacter xylinum strains that have been genetically modified to obtain modified strains that produce a bacterial cellulose / chitin copolymer.

According to exemplary embodiments of the invention, the biopolymer producing microorganisms are a mixture of wild-type and genetically modified microorganisms.

According to a preferred embodiment, step c. of the method of the invention is carried out by contacting at least part of at least a plurality of warp threads and / or at least part of at least a plurality of weft threads, or at least part of a woven fabric with a cultivating biopolymer producing microorganisms, and cultivating said biopolymer producing microorganisms, to provide at least part of said at least one plurality of warp threads and / or at least part of said at least one plurality of weft threads, or to the less part of said woven fabric of a biopolymer layer.

In other words, a composite fabric can be obtained according to step c. of the present invention by providing a woven fabric with a biopolymer layer, which "grows" (ie is produced) directly on the fabric.

For example, a composite fabric according to the invention can be obtained, advantageously, by contacting the beam and / or the underside of a woven fabric with a culture of biopolymer-producing microorganisms, and cultivating said biopolymer-producing microorganisms. In more detail, once the woven fabric comes into contact with a culture of biopolymer-producing microorganisms, the biopolymer-producing microorganisms are cultured to produce a biopolymer layer directly on the fabric, thus providing a composite fabric according to the stage c. of the process of the invention.

According to embodiments, at least part of at least a plurality of warp yarns and / or at least part of at least a plurality of weft yarns, provided in step a. of the process of the invention, are provided with a biopolymer layer before weaving according to step b.

For example, a biopolymer layer (eg, a cellulose layer), preferably a thin biopolymer layer (eg, a biopolymer "film") can be grown directly on cotton yarns.

Advantageously, a biopolymer layer, provided on yarns (warp and / or weft yarns) before weaving, acts as a sizing agent, thus protecting the yarns during the weaving process. Additionally, the biopolymer layer provided on the yarns protects the yarns from damage also after the weaving step.

Furthermore, when the biopolymer layer (e.g. a biopolymer film) grows (i.e. is produced) directly on the warp and / or weft yarns, it is possible to skip the step of gluing the yarns before weaving and skipping the de-gluing step after weaving, thereby reducing production costs. According to exemplary embodiments, at least part of at least a plurality of warp yarns and / or at least part of at least a plurality of weft yarns, provided in step a. of the process of the invention, are provided with a biopolymer layer and are dyed before the weaving stage according to stage b.

For example, a biopolymer layer according to the invention may be produced (ie "grown") on the yarns by contacting said yarns with a culture of biopolymer producing microorganisms, and cultivating said biopolymer producing microorganisms, prior to woven, thus providing "composite yarns".

According to embodiments of the invention, the "composite yarns" can be woven to provide a woven fabric provided with a biopolymer layer, which can be subsequently dyed. Alternatively, or additionally, the composite yarns can be dyed prior to the weaving step.

According to exemplary embodiments, a biopolymer layer can be provided to a woven fabric according to step c. by causing it to grow, ie by producing, the biopolymer layer on the fabric, or by coupling the woven fabric with a separately produced biopolymer layer.

For example, a separately produced biopolymer layer can be coupled to a woven fabric by lamination, for example, the biopolymer layer is attached to the woven fabric by a crosslinking process; In other exemplary embodiments, the biopolymer layer is sewn onto the bundle and / or the underside of the woven fabric.

According to embodiments, the biopolymer layer is produced and dissolved, and subsequently the yarns and / or woven fabric are contacted with the dissolved biopolymer, to provide a composite fabric according to step c. of the invention.

According to a preferred embodiment, step c. The process of the invention is carried out by contacting at least part of the woven fabric (or at least some of the threads before weaving) with a culture of biopolymer-producing microorganisms, and cultivating said biopolymer-producing microorganisms, to provide the fabric woven with a biopolymer layer, thus obtaining a composite fabric. Advantageously, by producing (i.e., growing) the biopolymer layer on the woven fabric (or on at least some of the yarns before weaving), a non-uniform biopolymer layer can be obtained, as discussed. previously.

According to exemplary embodiments, the woven fabric (or threads before weaving) can be brought into contact with a culture of biopolymer producing microorganisms, by dipping the fabric (or threads) into the culture of biopolymer producing microorganisms.

In other words, according to exemplary embodiments, at least part of the woven fabric, or at least part of the threads (for example, the threads before weaving) is brought into contact with a culture of microorganisms that produce a bacterial biopolymer, dipping said to the less part of said woven fabric or at least part of said yarns in said biopolymer-producing microorganism culture.

Advantageously, when the woven fabric is immersed in the culture of biopolymer-producing microorganisms, the biopolymer layer grows on both sides (i.e. the top and back of the woven fabric), thus providing a composite fabric. wherein the woven fabric is provided with two biopolymer layers, comprising the same biopolymer.

According to other exemplary embodiments, the culture of biopolymer producing microorganisms is sprayed on at least part of said woven fabric (or on at least some of the threads before weaving), preferably on at least part of the bundle of said woven fabric.

According to embodiments, the culture of biopolymer-producing microorganisms is sprayed on at least part of said woven fabric through a wire mesh.

Advantageously, by spraying the biopolymer-producing microorganism culture onto at least part of said woven fabric through a wire mesh, the biopolymer layer is grown, i.e. produced, on the woven fabric as a discontinuous and non-uniform layer of biopolymer, as discussed above.

Preferably, the wire mesh is removed prior to dyeing once the bacterial biopolymer is made to grow on the woven fabric. Advantageously, when the wire mesh is removed after the bacterial biopolymer is made to grow on the woven fabric, a biopolymer layer is obtained having a defined pattern.

According to embodiments, a dissolved biopolymer is sprayed on at least part of said woven fabric, preferably on at least part of the bundle of said woven fabric, thus providing a composite fabric according to step c. of the process of the invention. Advantageously, by spraying the dissolved biopolymer on at least part of said woven fabric through a wire mesh, a discontinuous (uniform or non-uniform) layer of biopolymer can be obtained, as defined above.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the warp yarns and / or the weft yarns are hydrophilic yarns. Advantageously, when the warp yarns and / or weft yarns are hydrophilic yarns, the culture medium of the biopolymer-producing microorganisms is absorbed by the yarns (before weaving) or by the woven fabric, thereby providing way, nutrients to the microorganisms and ingredients for the synthesis of the biopolymer layer, directly on the woven fabric.

According to embodiments of the invention, the hydrophilic yarns are natural yarns, that is, yarns that are made of natural fibers.

Preferably, the natural yarns comprise natural fibers selected from cotton, wool, linen, kenaf, ramie, hemp, and blends thereof.

According to embodiments of the invention, the hydrophilic yarns are synthetic yarns, that is, yarns that are made up of synthetic fibers.

Preferably, the synthetic yarns comprise synthetic fibers selected from polyester, rayon, nylon, lycra, and blends thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, synthetic yarns and / or synthetic fibers are treated (ie finished) to provide synthetic yarns and / or synthetic fibers having hydrophilic properties.

For example, synthetic yarns and / or synthetic fibers, which are not hydrophilic per se, can be treated with a hydrophilizing agent to obtain hydrophilic characteristics. According to embodiments, the hydrophilic yarns are mixed yarns, that is, yarns comprising both natural and synthetic fibers. In this case, for example, a hydrophilic mixed yarn obtained by mixing hydrophilic natural fibers and hydrophobic synthetic fibers can be obtained.

In embodiments of the invention, warp yarns and / or warp yarns are selected from natural yarns, synthetic yarns, and mixed yarns. According to a preferred embodiment, the warp yarns and / or the weft yarns are natural yarns. Preferably, the natural yarns comprise natural fibers selected from cotton, wool, linen, kenaf, ramie, hemp, and blends thereof.

In other embodiments of the invention, the warp yarns and / or weft yarns are synthetic yarns, preferably thermoplastic yarns, more preferably thermoplastic elastomeric yarns. Preferably, the synthetic yarns comprise synthetic fibers selected from polyester, rayon, nylon, lycra, and blends thereof.

In exemplary embodiments of the invention, the warp yarns and / or weft yarns of the woven fabric are mixed yarns, that is, yarns comprising both natural fibers and synthetic fibers. In exemplary embodiments of the invention, the natural fibers and yarns are hard fibers and yarns. In exemplary embodiments of the invention, the synthetic fibers and yarns are elastomeric fibers and yarns.

Suitable elastomeric yarns are yarns containing elastomeric fibers. An "elastomeric fiber" is a fiber made from a continuous filament or a plurality of filaments having an elongation at break of at least 100%, regardless of any crimp. Elongation at break can be measured, for example, according to ASTM D2256 / D2256M-10 (2015). An "elastomeric fiber" is a fiber that after being elongated to twice its length and held for one minute at that length, will retract to less than 1.5 times its original length in less than a minute of being released. According to a preferred embodiment, a woven fabric suitable for use in the invention comprises warp yarns and weft yarns woven together, and has a bundle and a back, said warp yarns and at least a plurality of weft yarns forming a base layer of said woven fabric, and forming a plurality of warp yarns and / or at least a plurality of weft yarns an additional layer of loop portions, on at least one of the faces of said woven fabric.

According to exemplary embodiments, fabric structures suitable for use as "woven fabric" in a method according to the present invention are disclosed in patent application US2015 / 0038042 (see, in particular, paragraphs [0013], [0019] - [0027], [0030], [0031], [0033], [0049] - [0051], [0054], [0055], [0060], [0066], [0068] - [0071], [ 0075], [0076], [0078] - [0083], [0086], [0089] - [0117]) and in patent application US2013 / 0048140 (see, in particular, paragraphs [0007], [0010 ], [0013] - [0018], [0041] - [0046], [0048] - [0050], [0054] - [0059] and Examples 1, 3-8 and 10) whose descriptions are incorporated in the present specification by reference. In a preferred embodiment, at least part of said additional layer of loop portions is included, eg embedded, in the biopolymer layer. According to exemplary embodiments, the composite fabric of the present invention may be a composite fabric as disclosed in the copending application like the present one having the title "Composite fabric comprising a bacterial biopolymer layer" in the name of the present applicant.

According to preferred embodiments, the woven fabric is a denim fabric.

According to embodiments of the invention, step d. The process of the invention is carried out by print dyeing, preferably indigo print dyeing, or by dipping the composite fabric in a dye bath (preferably an indigo bath).

Best results are obtained with print dyeing, dye coating when the dye is only applied to the face of the fabric on which the bacterial biopolymer (eg cellulose) has grown. In this way, the bacterial biopolymer (for example, cellulose) behaves as a barrier; therefore, unique visual effects can be obtained. However, very good results were also obtained by conventional indigo dyeing procedures, in which the fabric is immersed in an indigo bath (both sides of the fabric are dyed) and only during wash treatments, as it is removed. the bacterial biopolymer (for example, cellulose), the variation of the color tones appears. Here again, the thickness of the bacterial cellulose plays an important role. The thicker the layer of biopolymer (e.g. cellulose), the less the dye can penetrate to the center of individual fibers, therefore a slight annular effect is observed and, vice versa, when the thickness is less, the annular effect it is more intense. In general, this creates visual color variations, especially during wash treatments.

Preferably, when the composite fabric is dyed, as obtained in step c. By print dyeing, print dyeing is carried out on the face of the composite fabric on which the biopolymer layer is placed.

In this case, advantageously, the biopolymer layer acts as a barrier during the printing dyeing process, thus avoiding damage to the fabric underlying the biopolymer layer, and preventing the penetration of a large amount of dye in the woven fabric. For example, as discussed above, depending on the thickness and / or pattern (ie, continuity or discontinuity) of the biopolymer layer, the amount of dye that reaches and penetrates the woven fabric varies.

According to embodiments, step d. It is carried out by dyeing said composite fabric with a dye selected from the group of indigo dye, sulfurous dye, pigmented dye, reactive dye. The preferred form of application of the selected dye is print dyeing; When printing dyeing is used, any dye can be used, such as vat, direct, reactive.

According to exemplary embodiments, step e. The process of the invention is carried out by finishing treatments, for example, rinse washing, enzymatic washing, stone washing, laser treatments, etc. like a laundry wash, to remove at least part of said at least one biopolymer layer of said composite fabric, thus providing a fabric treated according to the invention.

In other words, a biopolymer layer can be removed, at least in part, from the composite fabric by washing with water, eg laundry washing, from the dyed composite fabric, thereby substantially avoiding the use of chemical agents. According to embodiments, step e. The process of the invention is carried out by embracing at least part of said at least one biopolymer layer of said composite fabric.

In other words, the removal of the biopolymer layer from the composite fabric, to obtain a treated fabric, is carried out by abrasion (eg, "rubbing", "scratching") of the biopolymer layer, damaging the biopolymer layer, substantially removing the entire biopolymer layer, without damaging the fabric.

According to a preferred embodiment, step e. It is carried out by stone washing of said dyed composite fabric obtained in step d.

Advantageously, the stone washing of the composite fabric as obtained in step d. of the process of the invention, that is to say the washing of the composite fabric in the presence of pumice stones, allows the efficient and rapid removal of the biopolymer layer, without damaging the fabric underlying the biopolymer layer, thus providing a treated fabric that has a multi-tone effect without affecting (ie, reducing) the mechanical integrity and properties of the fabric, such as tensile strength.

According to a preferred embodiment, step e. said dyed composite fabric obtained in step d is carried out by biological stone washing.

Advantageously, the biological stone washing of the composite fabric as obtained in step d. of the process of the invention, i.e. washing the composite fabric in the presence of enzymes capable of providing removal of the biopolymer layer from the composite fabric, provides a treated fabric that has a multi-tone effect without affecting (i.e. reducing ) the mechanical integrity and the properties of the fabric, such as tensile strength, and substantially avoids the use of chemical agents and polluting substances.

According to embodiments of the invention, step e. It is carried out by laundry washing and / or stone washing and / or biological stone washing of a garment comprising a composite fabric as can be obtained in step d. of the process of the invention. According to embodiments of the invention, step e. It is carried out by means of a laser treatment.

Another object of the invention is a treated fabric as can be obtained by a process according to the invention.

Advantageously, a treated fabric obtained by the method of the invention exhibits a "multi-tone" effect, in particular a "multi-tone" appearance, not previously available by known finishing processes. Specifically, as previously stated, the "multi-toned" effect obtained comprises a plurality of color tones, which are distributed throughout the genre (and throughout the garment that comprises it) according to a non-reproducible pattern, of so that the same distribution of tones from one genre to another cannot be reproduced.

According to one aspect of the invention, the "multi-tone" effect of the treated fabric depends on the thickness and / or pattern (ie continuity or discontinuity) of the biopolymer layer, which is provided on the non-woven fabric. treated, according to point c. of the process of the invention. For example, an "untreated" woven fabric is provided with a biopolymer layer, thus providing a composite fabric. The composite fabric is subsequently dyed. At least part of the biopolymer layer is then removed from the dyed composite fabric, thereby providing a treated fabric that has a "multi-hued" effect.

As mentioned above, the "multi-tone" effect of the treated fabric depends on the thickness and / or pattern (ie, continuity or discontinuity) of the biopolymer layer.

For example, a biopolymer layer can have a thickness T that takes, schematically, three different values, specifically T1, T2 and t3, where T3> T2> T 1.

In this case, the dye absorption of the biopolymer layer when the thickness is T3 is greater than the absorption when the thickness is T2, which, in turn, is greater than the absorption when the thickness is T1. Therefore, if a certain amount of dye reaches the woven fabric underlying the biopolymer layer when the thickness of the biopolymer layer is T1, less of the dye reaches the woven fabric when the thickness of the biopolymer layer is T2. , and an even smaller amount of dye reaches the woven fabric when the thickness is T3. In this case, a treated fabric having three different shades of color can be obtained.

It should be noted that the example mentioned above is simply a schematic description, in fact, the treated fabric of the invention has a "multi-tone" appearance, that is, the treated fabric presents numerous different shades of color, due to the different penetration of the dye throughout the biopolymer layer.

According to embodiments of the invention, a fabric treated according to the invention comprises dyed yarns and portions of a dyed layer of biopolymer; in other words, in embodiments of the invention a treated fabric as can be obtained by a process according to the invention comprises regions of residual bacterial biopolymer, that is, regions in which the biopolymer layer has not been completely removed.

A further object of the present invention is a garment comprising a treated fabric as can be obtained by the method of the invention.

According to a preferred embodiment, in a garment according to the invention, the bundle of the treated fabric is the visible external face when the garment is worn, and the underside of the treated fabric is the non-visible internal face when the garment is worn. article of clothing.

Another object of the present invention is a garment comprising a composite fabric as can be obtained with the method of the invention. Preferably, the fabric is made into a garment after step b. or c. of the process of the invention.

According to embodiments of the invention, when a garment comprises a composite fabric as can be obtained in step c. or in stage d. of the process of the invention, a "multi-toned" effect can be advantageously obtained by removing at least part of the biopolymer layer from the garment, that is, removing at least part of the biopolymer layer from the composite fabric. , after the composite fabric has been used for the production of a garment.

Brief description of the drawings

Additional aspects and advantages of the invention will be described in more detail with reference to the accompanying drawings, provided by way of non-limiting example, in which:

- Figure 1 is a perspective view of a portion of an exemplary woven fabric according to the invention, before it is subjected to step c. of the method of the invention, that is to say an untreated woven fabric;

- Figure 2 is a perspective view of a portion of a composite woven fabric according to the invention, as can be obtained after step c. of the process of the invention, that is to say a woven fabric provided with a polymer layer;

- Figure 3 is a perspective view of a portion of an exemplary composite fabric according to the invention, as can be obtained after step d. of the process of the invention, that is to say a dyed composite fabric;

Figures 4, 5, 6 and 7 are perspective views of exemplary embodiments of the fabric treated as can be obtained by the method of the invention;

- Figure 8 shows an embodiment of the invention, in which a culture of biopolymer-producing microorganisms is sprayed on an exemplary woven fabric through a wire mesh;

Figure 9 is a perspective view of a portion of an exemplary composite fabric according to the invention, having a discontinuous biopolymer layer;

Figure 10 is a perspective view of a portion of an exemplary composite fabric according to the invention, having a discontinuous layer of biopolymer, after the dyeing process;

- Figure 11 is a perspective view of an exemplary embodiment of the fabric treated as it can be obtained by the method of the invention.

Detailed description of the invention

According to one aspect of the invention, the structure of the treated fabric is substantially the same as that of the untreated woven fabric (i.e., the fabric woven prior to steps c., D. And e. Of the process of the invention); in other words, the method of the invention does not substantially modify the structure of the woven fabric that is subjected to the method of the invention.

Therefore, in the present embodiment it will be interpreted that the "woven fabric" 1 (that is, the fabric before steps c., D. And e. Of the process of the invention) and the "treated fabric" 100 (is that is, the gender after step e. of the process of the invention) are the same fabric before and after the process of the invention. In other words, a treated fabric is the fabric woven after it has been treated according to the invention.

Figure 1 is a perspective view of a portion of an exemplary woven fabric 1 according to the invention, before it is subjected to step c. of the method of the invention, that is to say an untreated woven fabric.

Figure 1 shows a woven fabric 1, having warp yarns 2 and weft yarns 3, and having a bundle 5 and a back 6. The weft yarns 3 and warp yarns 2 are woven in a pattern in the that the weft yarns 3 pass over two warp yarns 2, in the fabric bundle 5, and under a warp yarn 2 on the underside 6.

It should be noted that the fabric pattern illustrated in the present figures is simply intended to be representative, and not limiting, of the scope of the invention; in fact, it has to be taken into account that any type of fabric pattern is included in the scope of the claims. As mentioned above, the weave pattern can contribute to the final look.

Woven fabric 1 depicted in Figure 1 is not dyed.

Figure 2 is a perspective view of a portion of an exemplary composite fabric 10, as may be obtained after step c. of the process of the invention. A woven fabric 1 is provided with a biopolymer layer 4, in its bundle 5, thus providing a composite fabric 10.

The underside 6 of the woven fabric 1 is also indicated in Figure 2. In this case, the underside 6 of the woven fabric 1 corresponds to the underside of the composite fabric 10.

In the embodiment of Figure 2, the biopolymer layer 4 is represented, schematically, as a continuous and uniform layer, that is to say a layer that continuously covers (that is, without interruptions) the bundle 5 of the woven fabric 1 and that it maintains substantially the same thickness T throughout.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the biopolymer layer 4 is produced directly on the woven fabric 1, in particular by cultivating biopolymer-producing microorganisms directly on the woven fabric 1. For example, the woven fabric 1 can be brought into contact with a culture of biopolymer-producing microorganisms, which are grown directly on the tissue fabric 1. By cultivating the microorganisms directly on the tissue fabric 1, the growth (i.e. production) of a biopolymer layer 4 on the woven fabric can be obtained 1.

In embodiments of the invention, the biopolymer layer 4 is a non-uniform layer, that is, it has a thickness T that is variable throughout the biopolymer layer 4.

In embodiments of the invention, the biopolymer layer 4 is a discontinuous layer, i.e. it is an interrupted layer, thus providing areas of the woven fabric 1 that are not endowed (i.e. not covered) with the layer 4 made of biopolymer.

Figure 3 is a perspective view of a portion of an exemplary composite fabric 10, obtainable after step d. of the process of the invention, that is to say a dyed composite fabric. Figure 3 shows, in particular, the biopolymer layer 4 after dyeing. In a similar way to Figure 2, the biopolymer layer 4 is schematically represented as a continuous and uniform layer, that is to say a layer that covers continuously (i.e. without interruptions) the bundle 5 of the woven fabric 1 and that it maintains substantially the same thickness T throughout.

However, as mentioned above, in embodiments of the invention, the biopolymer layer 4 is discontinuous and / or non-uniform. The underside 6 of the woven fabric 1 is also indicated in Figure 3. In this case, the underside 6 of the woven fabric 1 corresponds to the underside of the composite fabric 10.

Figure 4 shows a perspective view of an exemplary embodiment of a treated fabric 100 as can be obtained by the method of the invention, that is after at least part of the biopolymer layer 4 of the composite fabric 10 is removed.

Figure 4 shows a treated fabric 100, having warp yarns 2 and weft yarns 3, and having a bundle 5 and a back 6. The weft yarns 3 and warp yarns 2 are woven in a pattern in the that the weft threads 3 pass over two warp threads 2, in the fabric bundle 5, and under a warp thread 2 on the reverse side.

Figure 4 shows, schematically, an embodiment in which the biopolymer layer 4 has been completely removed from the composite fabric 10, for example from the bundle 5 of the woven fabric 1.

The treated fabric 100, in the embodiment represented in Figure 4, has, in its beam 5, first regions 7 that are intensely colored, second regions 8 that are slightly colored (that is, dyed with a lighter shade of color than the first regions 7) and third regions 9 which are substantially uncolored, ie not stained. Figure 4 shows an embodiment if the treated fabric 100 in which the first regions 7 cover most of the bundle 5 of the treated fabric 100. The treated fabric 100 of Figure 4 presents second regions 8 that are colored with a lighter shade colored than the first regions 7 and also has third regions 9 that are substantially unstained.

Accordingly, a treated fabric 100, as shown in Figure 4, is substantially intensely dyed, and exhibits lighter hued regions and unstained regions, thus providing a substantially "light hued effect on dark ”, specifically a worn“ light on dark ”appearance. It should be noted that Figure 4 is simply a schematic representation of a treated fabric 100 according to the invention; in fact, the treated fabric 100 of the invention has a "multi-toned" appearance, that is, the treated fabric 100 presents numerous different shades of color, due to the different penetration of the dye throughout the biopolymer layer 4, specifically through the thickness T of the biopolymer layer 4.

This is particularly true in embodiments of the invention where the biopolymer layer 4 has a thickness T which is non-uniform, that is to say it is not the same throughout the biopolymer layer 4; in other words, when the thickness T assumes different values in different regions of the biopolymer layer 4.

In fact, if the composite fabric 10 has a biopolymer layer 4 having a variable thickness T, the dye absorption of the composite fabric 10 is variable with respect to the variable thickness T of the biopolymer layer 4.

In particular, it has been observed that the greater the thickness T, the greater the dye absorption of the biopolymer layer 4. In other words, when a composite fabric 10 has a biopolymer layer 4 having a variable thickness T, different amounts of dye reach the surface (i.e., for example, bundle 5) of the woven fabric 1, with respect to variation of the thickness T throughout the biopolymer layer 4.

For example, if the thickness T of the biopolymer layer is high, only a small amount (or no amount) of dye reaches the surface (i.e., for example, bundle 5) of woven fabric 1, thus providing, a treated fabric 100 with second regions 8 that are lightly colored and / or third regions 9 that are substantially uncoloured, ie not stained.

On the contrary, for example, if the thickness T of the biopolymer layer is low, a greater amount of dye reaches the surface (i.e., for example, bundle 5) of the woven fabric 1, thus providing a fabric treated 100 with first 7 regions that are intensely colored.

According to preferred embodiments of the invention, by growing the biopolymer layer 4 directly on the woven fabric 1, a biopolymer layer 4 having a variable thickness T can be obtained.

For example, a treated fabric 100 can be obtained, according to Figure 4, when the biopolymer layer 4 (removed according to step e. Of the process of the invention) has a thickness T that has a value T1 in correspondence with the first regions 7, a thickness T2> T1 in correspondence with the second regions 8 and a thickness T3>T2> T1 in correspondence with the third regions 9. In this case, according to Figure 4, when the thickness T of the biopolymer layer 4 is T3, substantially all of the dye is absorbed by biopolymer layer 4; in other words, the dye does not substantially reach the surface (eg, bundle 5) of woven fabric 1, thus providing a treated fabric 100 having third regions 9 that are substantially uncolored. Additionally, when the thickness T of the biopolymer layer 4 is T2, only part of the dye reaches the surface (for example, the bundle 5) of the woven fabric 1, thus providing a treated fabric 100 having second regions 8 that are slightly colored. Furthermore, when the thickness T of the biopolymer layer 4 is T1, substantially all of the dye reaches the surface (i.e., the bundle 5) of the woven fabric 1, thus providing a treated fabric 100 having first regions 7, which are intensely colored.

Consequently, a treated fabric 100, as shown in Figure 4, is substantially dyed, and exhibits unstained regions (specifically, third regions 9), and regions colored in a lighter shade (specifically, second regions 8). , thus providing a "light on dark" tone effect, in particular a worn "light on dark" appearance.

Figure 5 shows a perspective view of an exemplary embodiment of a treated fabric 100 as can be obtained by the method of the invention, that is, after at least part of the biopolymer layer 4 of the composite fabric 10 is removed.

Figure 5 shows a treated fabric 100, having warp yarns 2 and weft yarns 3, and having a bundle 5 and a back 6. The weft yarns 3 and warp yarns 2 are woven in a pattern in the that the weft threads 3 pass over two warp threads 2, in the fabric bundle 5, and under a warp thread 2 on the reverse side 6.

Figure 5 shows an embodiment, in which the biopolymer layer 4 has been completely removed from the composite fabric 10, for example from the bundle 5 of the woven fabric 1, in step e. of the process of the invention.

Figure 5 represents a treated fabric 100 having, in its bundle 5, first regions 7 that are intensely colored, second regions 8 that are slightly colored (that is, tinted with a lighter shade of color than the first regions 7) and third regions 9 that are substantially uncolored, ie not stained. Figure 5 shows an embodiment of the treated fabric 100 in which third regions 9 cover most of the bundle 5 of the treated fabric 100. The treated fabric 100 has first regions 7, which are intensely dyed, and second regions 8 that are colored with a lighter shade of tint than the first 7 regions.

Therefore, a treated fabric 100, as shown in Figure 5, is substantially undyed, and exhibits intensely stained regions (specifically, the first regions 7) and lightly colored regions (specifically, the second regions 8), thus providing a “dark on light” tone effect, in particular a worn “dark on light” appearance.

For example, a treated fabric 100 can be obtained, according to Figure 5, when the biopolymer layer 4 (eliminated with step e. Of the process of the invention) has a thickness T1 in correspondence with the first regions, a thickness T2> T1 in correspondence with the second regions 8 and a thickness T3> T2> T1 in correspondence with the third regions 9.

For example, a biopolymer layer 4 having a variable thickness T can be obtained by growing (ie producing) said biopolymer directly on the surface of the fabric, specifically, on the bundle 5 of the woven fabric 1.

In this case, according to Figure 5, when the thickness T of the biopolymer layer 4 is T3, substantially all of the dye is absorbed by the biopolymer layer 4; in other words, the dye does not substantially reach the surface (eg, bundle 5) of woven fabric 1, thus providing a treated fabric 100 having third regions 9 that are substantially uncolored. Additionally, when the thickness T of the biopolymer layer 4 is T2, only part of the dye reaches the surface (for example, the bundle 5) of the woven fabric 1, thus providing a treated fabric 100 having second regions 8 that are slightly colored. Furthermore, when the thickness T of the biopolymer layer 4 is T1, substantially all of the dye reaches the surface (i.e. bundle 5) of the woven fabric 1, thus providing a treated fabric 100 having first regions 7 , which are intensely colored.

As already mentioned, Figure 5, like Figure 4, has to be conceived as a schematic representation of a fabric treated 100 according to the invention, because the fabric treated 100 according to the invention has many different shades of color (ie, a multi-tone effect), due to the different penetration of the dye through the thickness T of the biopolymer layer 4.

Figure 6 shows a perspective view of an exemplary embodiment of a treated fabric 100, having warp yarns 2 and weft yarns 3, and having a bundle 5 and a back 6, as can be obtained by the method of invention, that is, after at least part of the biopolymer layer 4 is removed from the composite fabric 10. Figure 6 shows an embodiment, in which the biopolymer layer 4 has been completely removed from the composite fabric 10, for example, of bundle 5 of woven fabric 1, in step e. of the process of the invention.

Figure 6 shows an embodiment of the treated fabric 100, in which second regions 8 cover most of the bundle 5 of the treated fabric 100. The treated fabric 100 exhibits first regions 7, which are intensely dyed, and third regions that are substantially not dyed.

Thus, a treated fabric 100, as shown in Figure 6, is substantially "lightly dyed" and exhibits intensely stained regions (specifically, the first 7 regions), and substantially unstained regions (specifically, the third regions 9), thus providing a “mixed” tone effect, that is, a combination of a “dark on light” tone effect and a “light on dark” tone effect, for example, an appearance worn “mixed”.

For example, a treated fabric 100 can be obtained, according to Figure 6, when the biopolymer layer 4 (eliminated with step e. Of the process of the invention) has a thickness T1 in correspondence with the first regions 7, a thickness T2 > T1 in correspondence with the second regions 8 and a thickness T3> T2> T1 in correspondence with the third regions 9. For example, a biopolymer layer 4 having a variable thickness T can be obtained by making it grow (that is, producing ) said biopolymer directly on the surface of the fabric, specifically, on the bundle 5 of the woven fabric 1. In this case, according to Figure 6, when the thickness is T3, the dye does not substantially reach the surface (that is, the bundle 5) of woven fabric 1, thereby providing a treated fabric 100 having third regions 9 that are substantially uncolored. When the thickness of the biopolymer layer 4 is T1, substantially all of the dye reaches the woven fabric 1, thus providing a treated fabric 100 having first regions 7, which are intensely colored.

Additionally, when the thickness is T2, only part of the dye reaches the surface (ie bundle 5) of woven fabric 1, thus providing a treated fabric 100 having second regions 8 that are lightly colored.

Figure 7 illustrates an exemplary embodiment of the treated fabric 100, having warp yarns 2 and weft yarns 3, and having a bundle 5 and a back 6, as can be obtained by the method of the invention, that is, after that at least part of the biopolymer layer 4 of the composite fabric 10 is removed.

Figure 7 shows an embodiment, in which the biopolymer layer 4 has been partially removed (ie not completely removed) from the composite fabric 10, for example from the bundle 5 of the woven fabric 1, in step e. of the process of the invention.

Figure 7 shows an embodiment of treated fabric 100 in which residual bacterial biopolymer regions 4a are present in bundle 5 of treated fabric 100. Said residual bacterial biopolymer regions 4a are stained.

The embodiment of Figure 7 presents third regions 9, which cover most of the bundle 5 of the treated fabric 100; in other words, most of the front surface of the treated fabric 100 is undyed. The treated fabric 100 has first regions 7, which are intensely dyed, and second regions 8 that are lightly colored (ie, dyed a lighter shade of color than the first regions 7).

The presence of the residual bacterial biopolymer stained regions 4a in the treated fabric 100 provides an additional "visual effect" combining the peculiar color tone of the biopolymer dyed layer 4 with all other color shades in the treated fabric 100. Additionally, the presence of the residual bacterial biopolymer regions 4a gives the treated fabric 100 a feel that is different from the feel of a fabric in which the biopolymer layer 4 has been completely removed. By varying the amount of residual biopolymer layer 4 on the treated fabric 100, different touch effects can be obtained. Figure 8 shows an embodiment of the method of the invention, in which the culture of biopolymer producing microorganisms 200 is sprayed onto an exemplary woven fabric 1 through a wire mesh 300. The woven fabric 1 has warp yarns 2 and weft yarns 3, and has a bundle 5 and a back 6. The knitted fabric 1 shown in Figure 8 is not dyed. In carrying out the method of the invention illustrated in Figure 8, the culture of biopolymer-producing microorganisms 200 is sprayed onto the exemplary woven fabric 1 through a wire mesh 300, by means of a spray medium 201. The wire mesh 300 is positioned between the woven fabric 1 and the spray medium 201, and has a wire mesh structure 301 defining windows 302 of the wire mesh. Spraying the biopolymer-producing microorganism culture 200 through the wire mesh 300 results in an inhomogeneous distribution of the biopolymer-producing microorganisms on the woven fabric 1. For example, a distribution with a pattern of the biopolymer-producing microorganisms, thus providing the woven fabric 1, with regions contacted by the culture of biopolymer-producing microorganisms 200 and other regions with which the spray culture of biopolymer-producing microorganisms 200 does not contact. The wire mesh 300 can be made of any material; the application of the culture can be done by screen printing.

In other words, the wire mesh 300, which is placed in the bundle 5 of the woven fabric 1, "hides" some regions of the woven fabric 1, that is, the regions of the woven fabric 1 that lie below the structure 301 of the wire mesh. The biopolymer producing microorganism culture 200 that is sprayed from the spray medium 201 substantially does not contact the regions of the woven fabric 1 that are "hidden" by the wire mesh structure 301.

On the contrary, the spray culture of biopolymer-producing microorganisms 200 can reach the woven fabric 1 by passing through the wire mesh windows 302 of the wire mesh 300, which do not hide the woven fabric 1, and leave the portion of the fabric 1 free. woven fabric 1 in correspondence with the windows 302 of the wire mesh to make contact with the culture of biopolymer-producing microorganisms 200, sprayed by the spray medium 201.

As mentioned above, by cultivating the biopolymer producing microorganisms directly on the woven fabric 1, it is possible to grow (i.e. produce) a biopolymer layer 4 directly on the woven fabric 1.

In exemplary embodiments, when the distribution of the biopolymer-producing microorganisms on the woven fabric 1 is a non-homogeneous distribution, a discontinuous (ie, interrupted) layer 4 of biopolymer can be obtained.

For example, as mentioned above, by spraying the biopolymer-producing microorganism culture 200 through the wire mesh 300, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric 1 having regions contacted by the biopolymer-producing microorganism culture 200. biopolymer and other regions not contacted by the spray culture of biopolymer producing microorganisms 200. In this case, a discontinuous (ie, interrupted) layer 4 of biopolymer can be obtained, thereby providing a composite fabric 10 having a discontinuous (that is, interrupted) layer 4 of biopolymer; in other words, a woven fabric 1 can be obtained with regions that are covered by the biopolymer layer 4 and other regions that are not covered by the biopolymer layer 4.

Specifically, the regions of woven fabric 1 with which the biopolymer-producing microorganism culture 200 contacts are those regions of woven fabric 1 that correspond to the windows 302 of the wire mesh when the micro-organism culture 200 producing micro-organisms is sprayed. biopolymer on fabric fabric 1; such regions, after the cultivation of the microorganism on the woven fabric 1, turn out to be regions of the composite fabric 10 which are provided with the biopolymer layer 4.

On the contrary, when the woven fabric 1 is hidden by the wire mesh structure 301 when the biopolymer-producing microorganism culture 200 is sprayed onto the woven fabric 1, the biopolymer-producing microorganism culture 200 does not substantially contact the woven fabric 1, and therefore biopolymer layer 4 is not produced, thus providing regions of composite fabric 10 that are not endowed with biopolymer layer 4. Preferably, the wire mesh 300 will be removed prior to dyeing, once the layer, eg, bacterial cellulose, is grown on the fabric, which lasts for about 10 to 23 hours, eg, 14-18 hours.

Figure 9 is a perspective view of a portion of an exemplary composite fabric 10, having a discontinuous layer 4 of biopolymer. The exemplary composite fabric 10 of Figure 9 is obtained by spraying a culture of biopolymer-producing microorganisms 200 through a wire mesh 300 on a woven fabric 1 and subsequently culturing the biopolymer-producing microorganisms directly on the woven fabric 1, without removing the wire mesh 300. Preferably, the wire mesh 300 is removed after "growth" of the biopolymer layer 4 has been completed to the desired degree, before the layer is removed, at least in part, from the fabric or yarns.

In this manner, the woven fabric 1 is coupled with a discontinuous layer 4 of biopolymer, providing a composite fabric 10. The exemplary embodiment of the composite fabric 10 of Figure 9 comprises a woven fabric 1 coupled with a discontinuous layer 4 of biopolymer in its do 5.

The underside 6 of the woven fabric 1 is also indicated in Figure 9. In this case, the underside 6 of the woven fabric 1 corresponds to the underside of the composite fabric 10.

In the embodiment of Figure 9, biopolymer layer 4 is schematically depicted as a discontinuous uniform layer. In particular, the biopolymer layer 4 of Figure 9 is "discontinuous" because it covers the bundle 5 of the woven fabric 1 with "interruptions", that is to say it leaves regions that are not endowed with the biopolymer layer 4. The biopolymer layer 4 of Figure 9 is "uniform", because it maintains the same thickness T throughout.

In embodiments of the invention, the biopolymer layer 4 is a discontinuous non-uniform layer, that is, it is an interrupted layer, and has a thickness T that is variable throughout the length of the biopolymer layer 4.

Figure 9 shows an exemplary composite fabric 10 that is undyed, that is, has not been subjected to a dyeing process. Figure 10 is a perspective view of a portion of an exemplary composite fabric 10, having a discontinuous uniform layer 4 of biopolymer. In particular, Figure 10 shows composite fabric 10 after dyeing. The exemplary embodiment of the composite fabric 10 of Figure 10 comprises a woven fabric 1 provided with a discontinuous uniform layer 4 of biopolymer, having a thickness T, in its bundle 5.

The underside 6 of the woven fabric 1 is also indicated in Figure 10. In this case, the underside 6 of the woven fabric 1 corresponds to the underside of the composite fabric 10.

According to the embodiment of Figure 10, the biopolymer layer 4 is a discontinuous biopolymer layer 4, and the regions of the woven fabric 1 that are not coupled (specifically "not covered") with the biopolymer layer 4 are dyed, by same as biopolymer layer 4.

Figure 11 shows a perspective view of an exemplary embodiment of a treated fabric 100 as can be obtained by the method of the invention, that is after at least part of the biopolymer layer 4 of the composite fabric 10 is removed. 11 shows a treated fabric 100, having warp yarns 2 and weft yarns 3 and having a bundle 5 and a back 6.

Figure 11 shows an embodiment in which the biopolymer layer 4 of the woven fabric 1 has been completely removed, and which can be obtained when the biopolymer layer 4 of the composite fabric 10 is a discontinuous layer, such as, for example, in the composite fabric 10 illustrated in Figure 10 and Figure 9.

The treated fabric 100 of Figure 11 has, in its beam 5, first regions 7 that are intensely colored, second regions 8 that are slightly colored (that is, tinted with a lighter shade of color than the first regions 7) and third regions 9 that are substantially uncolored, ie not stained.

Figure 11 shows an embodiment of the treated fabric 100 in which the first regions 7 correspond to those regions that were not coupled with the biopolymer layer 4, that is, those regions in which the thickness T of the biopolymer layer 4 it was zero. The treated fabric 100 of Figure 11 further exhibits second regions 8 that are colored with a lighter shade of dye than the first regions 7, and third regions 9 that are substantially undyed.

The third regions 9 are obtained, for example, when the dye that is applied to the composite fabric 10 is completely absorbed by the biopolymer layer 4 and therefore does not reach the woven fabric 1, which remains undyed. The second regions 8 are obtained, for example, when part of the dye that is applied to the composite fabric 10 reaches the woven fabric 1, thus providing the treated fabric with 100 second regions 8 that are colored with a lighter shade of dye than the first regions 7, when the biopolymer layer 4 is removed. The first regions 7 are obtained, for example, when most of the dye applied to the composite fabric 10 reaches the woven fabric 1.

Figure 11 is a schematic representation of a treated fabric 100 according to the invention; in fact, the treated fabric 100 of the invention has a tinted appearance; that is, the treated fabric 100 has many different shades of color, due to the different penetration of the dye, throughout the biopolymer layer 4, specifically throughout the entire thickness T of the biopolymer layer 4.

As discussed above, this is particularly true in embodiments of the invention, where the biopolymer layer 4 has a thickness T that is not the same over the entire length of the biopolymer layer 4, i.e. the thickness T can take different values (eg T1, T2, T3) in different regions of the biopolymer layer 4, that is, the biopolymer layer 4 is non-uniform.

The number of color shades is further increased in those embodiments where the biopolymer layer 4 is discontinuous. In fact, the dye absorption of the composite fabric 10 is substantially determined by the thickness T of the biopolymer layer 4. In particular, it has been found that the greater the thickness T, the greater the dye absorption. In other words, when a composite fabric 10 has a biopolymer layer 4 having a variable thickness T, different amounts of dye reach the surface (i.e., for example, the bundle 5) of the woven fabric 1.

For example, if the thickness T of the biopolymer layer 4 is high, little or no dye reaches the surface (i.e., for example, the bundle 5) of the woven fabric 1, thus providing the treated fabric 100 second regions 8 that are lightly colored and / or third regions 9 that are substantially uncolored, that is to say not stained.

On the contrary, for example, if the thickness T of the biopolymer layer 4 is low, or the biopolymer layer 4 is absent (for example, when the biopolymer layer 4 is discontinuous), a large amount of dye reaches the surface ( that is, for example, the bundle 5) of the woven fabric 1, thus providing the treated fabric with 100 first regions 7, which are intensely colored.

Examples

The following examples will better illustrate an exemplary process for the production of a fabric treated according to the invention. The following examples are to be construed as merely illustrative and do not limit the scope of the invention.

Example 1

25 ml of a culture of Gluconacetobacter hansenii having a concentration 2 ^x 10 ⁴ cells / ml are sprayed onto the bundle of a sample tissue genus according to the invention. The culture used is a culture of Gluconacetobacter hansenii in Hestrin-Schramm (HS) medium containing 2% (w / v) glucose, 0.5% (w / v) peptone, 0.5% (w / v ) of yeast extract, 0.27% (w / v) of Na2HPO4 and 1.15g / L of citric acid.

Illustrative examples of woven fabrics according to the invention, which were used according to the present "Examples", are the following:

1. “Rigid” - 340 g of 100% cotton:

Warp threads are Ne 7/1 - 10/1

Weft threads are Ne 8/1 - 10/1

The warp density of the fabric is 25-28 threads / cm

The weft density of the fabric is 17-20 passes / cm

The weight of the woven fabric is 640-670 g / m

two

The bundle of the woven fabric has a surface density of 407-423 g / m

The materials that can be used for the woven fabric, in particular for warp yarns, are cotton, cotton blend and other staple fibers, or staple fibers other than cotton (Cotton / Tencel blends, Cotton / Modal, Cotton / PES, cotton / bamboo, 100% PES, 100% Tencel, Modal or Tencel / Modal).

2. “Soft” - 340g cotton / elastane (18% -25% stretch)

Warp threads are Ne 7/1 - 10/1

Weft threads are Ne 10/1 - 12/1

The warp density of the fabric is 27-31 threads / cm

The weft density of the fabric is 17-21 passes / cm

The weight of the woven fabric is 500-550g / m

The bundle of the woven fabric has a surface density of 407-423 g / m ²

The materials that can be used for the woven fabric, in particular for warp yarns, are cotton, cotton blend and other staple fibers, or staple fibers other than cotton (Cotton / Tencel blends, Cotton / Modal, Cotton / PES, cotton / bamboo, 100% PES, 100% Tencel, Modal or Tencel / Modal).

3. “Very stretchable” - 340g cotton / elastane (40% -65% stretch)

Warp threads are Ne 9/1 - 12/1

Weft threads are Ne 15/1 - 18/1

The warp density of the fabric is 29-32 threads / cm

The weft density of the fabric is 20-24 passes / cm

The weight of the woven fabric is 464-490 g / m

two

The bundle of the woven fabric has a surface density of 407-423 g / m

The materials that can be used for the woven fabric, in particular for warp yarns, are cotton, cotton blend and other staple fibers, or staple fibers other than cotton (Cotton / Tencel blends, Cotton / Modal, Cotton / PES, cotton / bamboo, 100% PES, 100% Tencel, Modal or Tencel / Modal).

Example 2

After the application (spraying) of the bacterial culture of Example 1 on the woven fabric, the woven fabric is incubated for 16 hours, at a temperature of 28 ° C. After 16 hours, at a temperature of 28 ° C, a bacterial cellulose layer is obtained that has a thickness that varies from 0.5 mm to 1 mm, with an average value of 0.75 mm in the bundle of the woven fabric, that is, a composite gender is obtained.

Example 3

After the growth of the bacterial cellulose layer is completed, the composite fabric obtained in Example 2 is washed with 0.1M NaOH at a temperature of 80 ° C to remove residual bacteria and all impurities from the growth medium. including bacteria, and in NaOCl, for 20 minutes to remove residual bacteria from the composite genus.

After removal of residual bacteria and all impurities from the growth medium including bacteria, the composite fabric is dyed by printing, with a dye selected from indigo, pigment, reactive, sulfurous dyes, preferably with indigo in its beam, that is to say on the face on which the bacterial cellulose layer is present.

Alternatively, the composite fabric may be vat dyed with a conventional indigo dye (ie, on both sides of the fabric).

Example 4

The dyed composite fabric obtained in Example 3 is finished by one or more finishing techniques.

For example, the dyed compound obtained in Example 3 can be rinsed with water for 20 minutes at 40 ° C. Additionally or alternatively, the dyed composite fabric obtained in Example 3 can be stone washed (i.e. washed in the presence of pumice stone) for 20 minutes at 40 ° C, followed by an enzymatic wash for 10 minutes at 50 ° C. to remove small hairs (fringing) created by stone washing. Additionally or alternatively, the dyed compound obtained in Example 3 can be subjected to stone bleaching, for 20 minutes at 40 ° C. Additionally or alternatively, the dyed composite fabric obtained in Example 3 can be subjected to laser treatments. One or more of the techniques mentioned above are used to remove the bacterial cellulose layer, thus obtaining a fabric treated according to the invention.

Claims (20)

1. A process for producing a treated fabric (100), comprising the following steps: to. providing at least a plurality of warp threads (2) and at least one plurality of weft threads (3); b. weaving said at least one plurality of warp yarns (2) with said at least one plurality of weft yarns (3) to provide a woven fabric (1), having a bundle (5) and a back (6); c. providing at least one layer (4) of at least one biopolymer that is produced by a microorganism on said yarns (2; 3) or on at least part of at least one face (5; 6) of said woven fabric (1) to providing a composite fabric (10); characterized in that said procedure comprises the steps of d. dyeing at least part of said composite fabric (10), whereby at least part of the yarns (2; 3) of the fabric are dyed together with said biopolymer layer (4); and. removing at least part of said biopolymer layer (4) from said composite fabric (10) to obtain a treated fabric (100). A method according to claim 1, in which the thickness (T) of said at least one biopolymer layer (4) is non-uniform over the entire extension of said biopolymer layer (4). A method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein at least part of said at least one biopolymer layer (4) is a discontinuous layer. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein said biopolymer layer (4) produced by a microorganism is selected from a sugar-based biopolymer, preferably cellulose produced by bacteria and / or algae, and an amino acid-based biopolymer , preferably collagen produced by bacteria, or a mixture thereof. 5. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein said step c. is carried out after stage b. producing said layer (4) of biopolymer on the woven fabric (1) or before step b. producing said layer (4) of biopolymer on said yarns before weaving said fabric. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein said woven fabric (1) is coupled with a separately produced biopolymer layer (4). A method according to claim 5, comprising the step of contacting at least part of said woven fabric (1) or at least part of said threads (2; 3) with a culture of microorganisms (200) that produce a biopolymer, and cultivating said biopolymer-producing microorganisms, to provide at least part of said woven fabric (1) or at least part of said threads (2; 3) with a layer (4) of biopolymer. A method according to claim 7, wherein said culture of biopolymer-producing microorganisms (200) is sprayed on at least part of said woven fabric (1), preferably on at least part of the bundle (5) of said woven fabric (1). A method according to claim 8, wherein said culture of biopolymer producing microorganisms (200) is sprayed onto at least part of said woven fabric (1) through a wire mesh (300). A method according to claim 7, contacting at least part of said woven fabric (1) or at least part of said threads (2; 3) with a culture of microorganisms (200) that produce a biopolymer by immersing said at least part of said woven fabric (1) or at least part of said threads (2; 3) in said culture of biopolymer-producing microorganisms. A process according to any one of claims 7 to 10, wherein said biopolymer-producing microorganisms are selected from biopolymer-producing bacteria, biopolymer-producing algae and mixtures thereof, wherein bacteria are preferably selected producers of biopolymer between Gluconacetobacter, Aerobacter, Acetobacter, Achromobacter, Agrobacterium, Azotobacter, Salmonella, Alcaligenes, Pseudomonas, Rhizobium, Sarcina and Streptoccoccus, the genus Bacillus and mixtures thereof, and in which the producing algae are preferably selected biopolymer between Phaeophyta, Rhodophyta and Chrysophyta and mixtures thereof. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein said woven fabric (1) comprises a plurality of warp yarns (2) and / or a plurality of weft yarns (3) forming an additional layer of said woven fabric ( 1) in the form of loop portions on at least one of the faces (5; 6) of said woven fabric (1), in which at least part of said additional layer is included in said biopolymer layer (4). A method according to any preceding claim, in which said warp yarns (2) and / or said weft yarns (3) are selected from natural yarns, synthetic yarns and mixed yarns, said natural yarns comprising natural fibers selected from cotton , wool, linen, kenaf, ramie, hemp and mixtures thereof, said synthetic yarns comprising synthetic fibers selected from polyester, rayon, nylon, lycra and mixtures thereof and the mixed yarns comprising both natural fibers and synthetic fibers. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein said woven fabric (1) is a denim fabric. 15. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein said step d is selected. between printing dyeing, indigo dyeing, immersing said composite fabric in a dye bath, in which the dye is preferably indigo dye. 16. A method according to any preceding claim, wherein said step e is carried out. by laundering and / or abrasion of at least part of said at least one layer (4) of biopolymer of said composite fabric (10). 17. A treated fabric (100) obtained by a process according to any claim 1 to 16. 18. A fabric according to claim 17, comprising dyed yarns and portions of a dyed biopolymer layer. 19. A garment comprising a treated fabric (100) according to claim 17 or 18. A garment according to claim 19, wherein the bundle (5) of said treated fabric (100) is the outer face visible when the garment is worn and the underside (6) of said treated fabric ( 100) is the inner side not visible when the garment is worn.