ES2351381T3 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION THAT INCLUDES AN ASCORBIC ACID COMPOUND OR A SALICYLIC ACID COMPOUND. - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing: -a fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester; - an additional surfactant selected from the C16-C22 and sorbitan fatty acid esters and the C16-C22 and glyceryl fatty acid esters; - a polycondensate of ethylene oxide and 10 propylene oxide consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks; - an active substance selected from ascorbic acid and its salts, glycosylated ascorbic acid, salicylic acid and salicylic acid derivatives of formula (I): ** (See formula) ** where: - the radical R designates a chain aliphatic of 2 to 22 linear, branched or cyclic saturated carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain of 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds, which may be conjugated; or an aromatic nucleus attached to the carbonyl radical directly or by means of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains of 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups may be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, selected from (a) the halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid of 1 to 6 atoms carbon, or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol of 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - R 'is a hydroxyl group; - as well as its salts from a mineral or organic base.

Description

Description [0001] The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion containing an active ingredient selected from an ascorbic acid compound or a salicylic acid compound and a particular surfactant mixture. [0002] Ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives are usually used for their numerous beneficial properties. In particular, ascorbic acid stimulates the synthesis of connective tissue and especially collagen, strengthens the skin's defenses against external aggressions, such as ultraviolet radiation and pollution, compensates for the skin's vitamin E deficiency, depigments the skin. and it has a free anti-radical function. These last two properties make it an excellent candidate as a cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient to fight against skin aging or prevent it. Unfortunately, due to its chemical structure (of alfacetolactone), ascorbic acid is very sensitive to certain environmental parameters, and especially to oxidation phenomena. There is, therefore, a rapid degradation of the ascorbic acid formulated in the presence of these parameters, and more particularly in the presence of oxygen, light or metal ions, depending on the temperature, or also under certain pH conditions (Pharm. Acta Helv., 1969, 44, 611-667; STP Pharma, 1985, 4, 281-286). [0003] On the other hand, the use of salicylic acid and its derivatives in topical compositions, especially cosmetic or dermatological, is known, for example as a keratolytic agent to treat acne or as an anti-aging agent. FR-A documents

2,581,542 and EP-A-378,936 describe such derivatives. [0004] But the use of ascorbic acid or salicylic acid or its derivatives in emulsions, and in particular in oil-in-water emulsions, especially when they contain a surfactant system that includes an ester of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol and an additional surfactant selected between the C16-C22 and sorbitan fatty acid esters and the C16-C22 and glyceryl fatty acid esters, it tends to destabilize the emulsion, which then presents a surface oil lag. The oil globules dispersed in the aqueous phase have a coarse appearance that makes the emulsion not homogeneous. [0005] DE-A-10,356,895 describes an oil-in-water emulsion containing ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives and an emulsifying system comprising PEG-40 stearate and glyceryl stearate. [0006] EP-A-1,676,563 describes an oil-in-water emulsion containing ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives, a C16-C22 and sorbitan fatty acid ester and an ethoxylated fatty acid ester, which is stabilized by the presence of a hydrophilic polysaccharide gelling agent, such as xanthan gum. [0007] However, this surfactant system described above is interesting because of the particular texture it confers on these emulsions. The latter have a thick texture and are suitable for conditioning the cosmetic product in a jar (contrary to fluid textures, which are conditioned in a tube or in a pump bottle; the thick texture is such that the composition does not drain instantly by inverting the jar ); such a composition can be easily taken with the fingers and extends well on the skin, in a pleasant way, penetrating easily; It gives softness and has no sticky effect. [0008] The purpose of the present invention is therefore to have an emulsion containing an active ingredient selected from ascorbic acid, salicylic acid and one of its derivatives and the surfactant system described above, and which is stable, especially for 24 hours at 55 ° C, even for 2 months at 45 ° C. [0009] The inventor has discovered that the stability of such an emulsion can be obtained by adding a polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. [0010] More precisely, the invention aims at an oil-petticoat emulsion composition containing:

-a compound of ascorbic acid or a compound of salicylic acid;

-a fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester;

- an additional surfactant selected from the C16-C22 and sorbitan fatty acid esters and the C16-C22 and glyceryl fatty acid esters;

-a polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. [0011] According to a first embodiment, the object of the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion composition containing:

-a compound of ascorbic acid;

-a fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester;

- an additional surfactant selected from the C16-C22 and sorbitan fatty acid esters and the C16-C22 and glyceryl fatty acid esters;

-a polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. [0012] According to a second embodiment, the object of the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion composition containing:

-a salicylic acid compound;

-a fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester

cabbage;

- an additional surfactant selected from the C16-C22 and sorbitan fatty acid esters and the C16-C22 and glyceryl fatty acid esters;

-a polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. [0013] A subject of the invention is also a non-therapeutic method of care or make-up of keratin materials, consisting in the application on keratin materials of the composition defined above. [0014] The ascorbic acid compound present in the composition according to the invention is advantageously selected from ascorbic acid and its salts, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and also glycosylated ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof. [0015] The ascorbic acid compound is preferably selected from magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and glycosylated ascorbic acid and its mixture. [0016] The ascorbic acid compound as described above may be present in the emulsion according to the invention in a content of 0.05% to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.05% to 5 % by weight and preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight. [0017] The salicylic acid compound present in the composition according to the invention is advantageously selected from salicylic acid and the compounds of the following formula (I):

image 1

where:

- the radical R designates an aliphatic chain of 2 to 22 linear, branched or cyclic saturated carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain of 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds, which may be conjugated; or an aromatic nucleus attached to the carbonyl radical directly or by means of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains of 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups may be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, selected from (a) the halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid of 1 to 6 atoms carbon, or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol of 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

-R ’is a hydroxyl group;

- as well as its salts from a mineral or organic base. [0018] Preferably, the radical R designates a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic chain of 3 to 11 carbon atoms or an unsaturated chain of 3 to 17 carbon atoms and having one or more conjugated double bonds or not, said hydrocarbon chains being able to be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, selected from (a) the halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol of 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

- as well as its salts obtained by salification by means of a mineral or organic base. [0019] The most particularly preferred compounds are those in which the radical R is a C3-C11 alkyl group. [0020] Among the particularly preferred compounds of formula (I), there may be mentioned:

5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid), 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid and its corresponding salts. [0021] The salicylic acid compound is advantageously selected from salicylic acid and 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid. More particularly 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid is used. [0022] The salts of the compounds of formula (I) can be obtained by salification by means of a mineral or organic base. As an example of a mineral base, there may be mentioned alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, or ammonia. [0023] Among the organic bases, there may be mentioned amines and alkanolamines. Particularly interesting are quaternary salts, such as those described in FR 2,607,498. [0024] The compounds of formula (I) usable according to the invention are described in US Pat.

6,159,479 and US 5,558,871, FR 2,581,542, FR 2,607,498, USA. 4,767,750, EP 378,936, USA 5,267,407, USA 5,667,789, USA 5,580,549 and EP-A-570,230. [0025] The salicylic acid compound as described above may be present in the emulsion according to the invention in a content of 0.05% to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.05% to 5 % by weight and preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight. [0026] The composition according to the invention contains, as the main emulsifying surfactant, at least one fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester. [0027] The fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester present in the composition according to the invention is preferably a C16-C22 fatty acid ester carrying 8 to 100 units of ethylene oxide. [0028] The fatty chain of the esters may be especially selected from the units of stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl and cetyl and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl, and preferably a stearyl chain. [0029] The number of ethylene oxide units may range from 8 to 100, preferably from 10 to 80 and better from 10 to 50. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, this number may range from 20 to 40. [ 0030] By way of example of fatty acid ester and polyethylene glycol, esters of stearic acid having respectively 20, 30, 40, 50 and 100 units of ethylene oxide, such as products marketed, respectively, can be mentioned. Myrj 49 P (polyethylene glycol stearate with 20 OE; CTFA name: PEG-20 stearate), Myrj 51, Myrj 52 P (polyethylene glycol stearate with 40 OE; CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), Myrj 53 and Myrj 59 P by the CRODA company. [0031] The fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of 0.1% to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight. [0032] The composition according to the invention also contains an additional emulsifying surfactant selected from the C16-C22 and sorbitan fatty acid esters and the C16-C22 and glyceryl fatty acid esters. [0033] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition contains a C16-C22 fatty acid ester and sorbitan. [0034] The C16-C22 and sorbitan fatty acid esters are formed by esterification of at least one fatty acid bearing at least one saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain, which respectively has 16 to 22 carbon atoms, with sorbitol. These esters can be specially selected from stearates, behenates, arachididates, palmitates and sorbitan oleates and mixtures thereof. Preferably sorbitan stearates and palmitates and preferably sorbitan stearates are used. [0035] The C16-C22 and sorbitan fatty acid ester present in the composition according to the invention is advantageously solid at a temperature less than or equal to 45 ° C. [0036] Examples of the sorbitan ester that can be used in the composition according to the invention are the sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Sorbitan stearate) sold by the company Croda under the name Span 60, the sorbitan triestearate sold by the company Croda bajo Span 65 V, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: Sorbitan palmitate) sold by Croda under the Span 40, sorbitan monooleate sold by Croda under Span 80 V and sorbitan trioleate sold by Uniquema company under the name Span 85 V. Preferably, the sorbitan ester used is sorbitan triestearate. [0037] The C16-C22 and sorbitan fatty acid ester may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of 0.01% to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.01 % to 5% by weight and preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight. [0038] The glyceryl and fatty acid ester can be obtained especially from an acid bearing a saturated linear alkyl chain of 16 to 22 carbon atoms. As the glyceryl and fatty acid ester, there may be mentioned especially glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or glyceryl tri-stearate) (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the glyceryl and fatty acid ester used is selected from glyceryl stearates. [0039] The glyceryl and fatty acid ester may be present in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight and preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight. [0040] The composition of the invention may be especially a mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol monostearate with 100 OE, and in particular that consisting of a 50/50 mixture, marketed under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Croda. [0041] The composition according to the invention contains a polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, and more particularly a copolymer consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks, such as, for example, polycondensate triblock polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol. These poly-condensed triblocks have, for example, the following chemical structure:

H- (O-CH2-CH2) a- (O-CH (CH3) -CH2) b- (O-CH2-CH2) a-OH, formula in which a ranges from 2 to 150 and b ranges from 1 to 100; preferably, a ranges from 10 to 130 and b ranges from 20 to 80. [0042] The polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide preferably has a weight average molecular weight of 1,000 to 15,000 and better than 1,500 to 15,000, and in particular 1,500 to 10,000, and even better of

1,500 to 5,000. [0043] Advantageously, said polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide has a turbidity temperature, at 10 g / l in distilled water, greater than or equal to 20 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 60 ° C. The turbidity temperature is measured according to ISO 1065. [0044] As polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide usable according to the invention, there can be mentioned the polycondensate triblock polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol sold under the designations "SYNPERONIC", such as "SYNPERONIC® PE / F32" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 108), "SYNPERONIC® PE / F108" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 338), "SYNPERONIC® PE / L44" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 124), "SYNPERONIC® PE / L42" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 122), "SYNPERONIC ® PE / F127 "(INCI name: POLOXAMER 407),« SYNPERONIC® PE / F88 »(INCI name: POLOXAMER 238) and« SYNPERONIC® PE / L64 »(INCI name: POLOXAMER 184) by CRODA, or also« LUTROL® F68 »(INCI name: POLOXAMER 188) by BASF. [0045] Polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of 0.01% to 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 3% in pe so and preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight. [0046] The composition according to the invention may further include an anionic surfactant selected from the alkaline salts of cetyl phosphate. Alkaline salts are, for example, sodium salts and potassium salts. The ionic surfactant is preferably potassium cetyl phosphate. [0047] The monopotassium salt of monocetyl phosphate (INCI name: potassium cetyl phosphate) sold under the name "AMPHISOL K" by the company DSM Nutritional Products can be used. [0048] This anionic surfactant allows to improve the stability of the composition at high temperature (55 ° C) for 2 months. [0049] The anionic surfactant may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of 0.05% to 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight and preferably of the 0.1% to 3% by weight. [0050] The composition according to the invention may include a hydrophilic gelling agent that allows the aqueous phase of the composition to thicken. [0051] The hydrophilic gelling agent can be selected, for example, from:

(i)

 carboxyvinyl polymers (such as polymers of acrylic acid, optionally crosslinked), such as products marketed under the designations Carbopol (INCI name: Carbomer) by Goodrich;

(ii)

 polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, possibly crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as the poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) marketed by the company Hoechst under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" ( INCI name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate); the crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS that are presented in the form of an emulsion, such as those sold under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 ( CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by SEPPIC; the crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylic acid and AMPS presented

in the form of an emulsion, such as those sold under the name SIMULGEL EG (CTFA name: Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80); copolymers of ethoxylated C12C14 alcohol 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid / methacrylate (ARISTOFLEX LNC from Clariant House); and the copolymers of ethoxylated 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid / stearyl methacrylate (ARISTOFLEX HMS and ARISTOFLEX SNC from Clariant House);

(iii) polysaccharides, such as xanthan gums, guar gums, alginates and cellulose polymers, such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose;

(iv) inorganic compounds, such as smectites, modified or non-modified hectorites, such as BENTONE products marketed by Rheox, LAPONITE products marketed by Southern Clay Products and VEEGUM HS product marketed by RT Vanderbilt , and their mixtures. [0052] Among these hydrophilic gelling agents, the polysaccharides described above, and in particular xanthan gum, will be selected more particularly. [0053] The hydrophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of 0.01% to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight and preferably 0, 1% to 3% by weight. [0054] The composition according to the invention includes an aqueous phase. [0055] The composition may include water in a content of 20% to 95% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably 30% to 90% by weight and preferably 40% to 70% by weight. [0056 ] The water may be a floral water, such as cornflower water, and / or a mineral water, such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water, and / or a thermal water. [0057 ] The composition may further include a water-miscible organic solvent at room temperature (25 ° C) especially selected from monoalcohols of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially 3 to 16 carbon atoms), such as mono-, di-or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers or mono-, di- (C1-C4) alkyl ethers or triethylene glycol; and their mixtures. [0058] The composition according to the invention may include a water-miscible organic solvent at room temperature, especially a polyol, in a content of 1% to 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably 3% at 15% by weight. [0059] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a pH of 3.0 to 8.0, preferably 4.0 to 8.0, preferably 5.0 to 7.0 and more preferably 5.5 to 6.5. [0060] The emulsion according to the invention also includes an oil phase. [0061] As oils more particularly usable in the composition of the invention, there may be mentioned, for example:

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene (or squalane);

- esters and synthesis ethers, especially fatty acids, such as the oils of the formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2, where R1 represents the remainder of a fatty acid of 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon chain or not of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate and isostearyl isostearate ; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisoestearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate and heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisoestearate; lipophilic amino acid derivatives, such as isopropyl lauroylsarcosinate (INCI name: Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate) marketed under the name Eldew SL 205 by Ajinomoto;

-linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as mineral oils (mixture of hydrocarbon oils derived from petroleum; INCI name: Mineral oil), paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petrolatum, polyidecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane and hydrogenated isoparaffin, such as Parleam® oil marketed by NOF Corporation (INCI name: Hydrogenated Polyisobutene);

- silicone oils, such as volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or non-linear or cyclic silicone chains, liquid or pasty at room temperature, especially cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones), such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes bearing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups pending or at the end of the siliconized chain, groups of 2 to 24 carbon atoms; and phenylated silicones, such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilaxis and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

- fluorinated oils, such as partially hydrocarbons and / or silicones, such as those described in JP-A-2-295.912;

-ethers, such as dicaprilic ether (name CTFA: Dicaprylyl ether), and C12-C15 fatty alcohol benzoates (Finsolv TN of FINETEX);

-Your mixes. [0062] The oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of 1% to 50% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably 5% to 40% by weight and preferably 5% to 30 % by weight. [0063] The oil phase of the emulsion may include other fatty bodies, such as waxes, gums, such as silicone gums (dimethiconol), silicone resins and mixtures thereof. [0064] The composition according to the invention may include at least one organic photoprotective agent active in UVA and / or UVB (absorber), water soluble or liposoluble or insoluble in commonly used cosmetic solvents. [0065] By presenting the composition according to the invention a good stability, it is appropriate for the formulation of organic UV filters: the UV filters incorporated in the composition do not degrade in the presence of ascorbic acid compound. [0066] Organic filters are especially selected from anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; ascorbic derivatives; camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives other than those of the invention, such as those described in US Pat. 4,367,390, EP 863,145, EP 517,104, EP 570,838, EP 796,851, EP 775,698, EP 878,469, EP 933,376, EP 507,691, EP 507,692, EP 790,243 and EP 944,624; benzophenone derivatives; derivatives of β, β-diphenylacrylate; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives; the imidazolines; bisbenzoazolyl derivatives, such as those described in EP 669,323 and US. 2,463,264; derivatives of paminobenzoic acid (PABA); Methylenebis derivatives (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole), such as those described in US applications. 5,237,071, USA 5,166,355, GB 2,303,549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893,119; filter polymers and filter silicones, such as those described especially in the application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene, such as those described in patent application DE 198 55 649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes, such as those described in applications EP 0.967.200, DE 197 46 654, DE 197 55 649, EP-A-1.008.586, EP 1.133.980 and EP 133.981, and mixtures thereof. [ 0067] Advantageously, a non-ionic organic protective filter is used. [0068] The photoprotective agent may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of 0.01% to 30% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.1 to 25% by weight and preferably 0.1 % to 20% by weight. [0069] The composition according to the invention may further include charges. [0070] By charges, particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or organic, insoluble in the middle of the composition must be understood regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured and which do not color the composition. [0071] The charges can be of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example laminar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of: talc, mica, silica, kaolin, poly-β-alanine, polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) polymer powders, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres, such as polyvinylidene / acrylonitrile chloride, such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), or acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls®, for example), particles of elastomeric polyorganosiloxanes, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, polyurethane powders, compound fillers, hollow silica microspheres and glass microcapsules or Ceramic [0072] The fillers may be present in the composition in a content of 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, with with respect to the total weight of the composition. [0073] The composition according to the invention can also include an active ingredient selected from the descaling agents capable of acting either favoring exfoliation, either on the enzymes involved in desquamation or degradation of the corneodesmosomes, moisturizing agents, depigmenting or propigmenting agents , anti-glycation agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, 5α-reductase inhibitors, lysyl-and / or prolyl hydroxylase inhibitors, agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or prevent their degradation, fibroblast or keratinocyte proliferation stimulating agents and / or keratinocyte differentiation, muscle relaxant agents, antimicrobial agents, tensing agents, anti-pollution or anti-radical agents, anti-inflammatory agents, principles lipolytic assets or that have a favorable, direct or indirect activity ta, on the decrease of adipose tissue, the agents that act on the microcirculation and the agents that act on the energy metabolism of the cells. [0074] Advantageously, the emulsion according to the invention can have a viscosity, measured at 25 ° C and a shear rate of 200 min-1 (200 revolutions per minute, that is, a frequency of 50 Hz), of 1 to 4 Pa.s (of 10 to 40 poises), and preferably 2 to 3.5 Pa.s (20 to 35 poises). The viscosity is measured at 25 ° C with a RHEOMAT 180 viscometer from the METTLER house equipped with a mobile of No. 3, the measurement being made after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile (after which time a viscosity and viscosity stabilization is observed mobile rotation speed), at a shear of 200 min-1. [0075] The composition according to the invention is, in particular, intended for a topical use, especially cosmetic or dermatological. [0076] In a known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as preservatives, perfumes, bactericides, odor absorbers, coloring materials, salts, surfactants, thickeners or bases. The amounts of these different adjuvants are those classically used in the field considered, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase or the aqueous phase. [0077] The composition according to the invention can be applied to the skin, hair, eyelashes, hair, nails or lips, depending on the intended use. It can thus be used in a cosmetic skin treatment procedure, consisting of the application of the composition according to the invention on the skin, for example to tone or regenerate it, to smooth small wrinkles of the skin and / or to fight against skin aging or against damage caused by UV radiation and / or to strengthen skin tissues against environmental aggressions. [0078] As a variant, the composition according to the invention can be used for the manufacture of a dermatological preparation. [0079] The composition may be a care composition, especially a skin care product, such as a skin care base, a care cream (day, night or wrinkle cream) or a makeup base; a composition for lip care (lip balm); or a sunscreen or self tanning composition. [0080] The composition may also be a makeup composition, especially skin, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows or hair. In particular, the makeup composition may be a makeup base, a blush, an eye shadow, a concealer or a body make-up product. [0081] Advantageously, the composition is a composition without rinsing. [0082] The emulsion according to the invention can be prepared according to the following general operating mode: Mix the constituents of the aqueous phase by heating at a temperature of approximately 70 ° C. Mix the oils and surfactants on the other hand by heating at a temperature of approximately 80 ° C. Pour the fatty phase into the aqueous phase at a temperature of approximately 70 ° C and then stir for 10 minutes with the help of a high speed turbine. Cool the emulsion obtained at approximately 60 ° C. Then add the thickeners and stir again for 10 minutes. Cool to approximately 50 ° C. Then introduce the ascorbic acid or derivative previously mixed with water and then eventually the other active substances. [0083] The invention will now be illustrated with the aid of the following non-limiting examples.

Example 1 and comparative 1 ': [0084] A face-care composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention (example 1) was prepared having the following composition: -Glyceryl monostearate mixture and

 polyethylene glycol stearate (100 OE)

 (ARLACEL 165 FL of the house CRODA) 2.5 g -PEG stearate (20 OE) (MYRJ 49 P of

 Uniquema house) 1 g - Stearyl alcohol 1 g - Stearic acid 3 g - Apricot kernel oil 5 g - Liquid fraction of shea butter 6 g - Cyclohexasiloxane 5 g - Pentaerythrityl 5 g -Isohexadecane 3 g - Wax bee 0.75 g -Silicone wax (Dow Corning 2501

 cosmetic wax) 1 g - Mix of dimethiconol and dimethicone

 (Dow Corning 1503 Fluid) 1.5 g-Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate 0.5 g-Glycosylated ascorbic acid 1 g -Triethanolamine 0.85 g -Acrylamide / acrylamido-2 copolymer

 emulsion sodium methylpropanesulfonate

 40% inverse in isohexadecane / water

 (Simulgel 600 from Seppic House) 1.4 g -Loads 3.1 g -Nácar 0.5 g -Adenosine 0.1 g -Potassium Cylphosphate 1.5 g -OE-OP-OE block polymer (Synperonic®)

 PE / F108 of the CRODA house) 0.2 g -Glycerol 8 g -Conservants cs -Csp water 100 g

A similar composition was also prepared, but it did not contain OE-OP-OE block copolymer (Synperonic® PE / F108 from CRODA) or potassium cetyl phosphate (composition 1 ', which is not part of the invention) (amounts suppressed) replaced by the same weight of water). [0085] The emulsion of Example 1 exhibits good stability after 24 hours at 55 ° C and also after 2 months at 45 ° C. Under observation under a microscope, the emulsion obtained is fine and dense. [0086] The composition is applied to the face in daily day use. [0087] The comparative emulsion of Example 1 'is unstable after storage for 2 months at 45 ° C: the emulsion, observed under a microscope, is thicker and more degraded. With the naked eye, there is a gap with surface release of the oil phase.

Example 2 and comparative 2 ’: [0088]

A face-care composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention (example 2) was prepared having the following composition: -Glyceryl monostearate mixture and

 polyethylene glycol stearate (100 OE)

 (ARLACEL 165 FL of the house CRODA) 2.5 g -PEG stearate (20 OE) (MYRJ 49 P of

 Uniquema house) 1 g - Stearyl alcohol 1 g - Stearic acid 3 g - Apricot kernel oil 7.5 g - Rice bran oil 4.5 g - Beeswax 1.7 g - Cyclohexasiloxane 7 g - Mix crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane

 and of polydimethylsiloxane (6 cst) (24/76)

 (KSG 16 from Shin Etsu) 2 g-Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate 0.5 g-Glycosylated ascorbic acid 1 g -Triethanolamine 0.80 g -Acrylamide / acrylamide-2 polymer

 emulsion sodium methylpropanesulfonate

 40% inverse in isohexadecane / water

 (Simulgel 600 from Seppic House) 1.3 g -Loads 3.1 g -Nácar 0.5 g -Adenosine 0.1 g -Potassium Cetylphosphate 1.5 g -OE-OP-OE block polymer (Synperonic®)

 PE / F108 of the house CRODA) 0.2 g -Glycerol 5 g -Butylene glycol 2 g -Conservants cs -Csp water 100 g

A similar composition was also prepared, but it did not contain OE-OP-OE block copolymer (Synperonic® PE / F108 from CRODA) or potassium cetylphosphate (composition 2 ', which is not part of the invention) (amounts suppressed) replaced by the same weight of water). [0089] The emulsion of Example 2 exhibits good stability after 24 hours at 55 ° C and also after 2 months at 45 ° C. Under observation under a microscope, the emulsion obtained is fine and dense. [0090] The composition is applied to the face in daily day use. [0091] The comparative emulsion of Example 2 'is unstable after storage for 2 months at 45 ° C: the emulsion, observed under a microscope, is thicker and more degraded. With the naked eye, a phase-out phase with oil phase release is observed. Example 3: [0092] An oil-in-water emulsion face composition was prepared having the following composition: - Glyceryl Stearate 2 g - Polyethylene Glycol Stearate (40 OE)

 (MYRJ 52 P from CRODA) 2.5 g-Sorbitan Trteatearate (SPAN 65 V from

 CRODA house) 0.9 g - Cetyl alcohol 4.4 g - Apricot kernel oil 5 g - Vaseline 2.5 g - Beeswax 0.75 g - Cyclohexasiloxane 9 g - Mix of polydimethylsiloxane alpha-omega

dihydroxylated / cyclopentadimethylsiloxane

 (14.7 / 85.3) (DOW CORNING 1501 FL of the

 Dow Corning house) 4 g-Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate 0.5 g-Glycosylated ascorbic acid 2 g -Triethanolamine 1.20 g -Loads 3 g -Adenosine 0.1 g-Tocopherol 0.2 g-Potassium ethyl phosphate 1.5 g -OE-OP-OE block copolymer (Synperonic®

 PE / F108 of the CRODA house) 0.2 g -Glycerol 5 g -Conservants cs -Csp water 100 g [0093] The emulsion obtained has good stability after 24 hours at 55 ° C and also after 2 months at 45 ° C. Under observation under a microscope, the emulsion obtained is fine and dense. [0094] The composition is applied to the face in daily day use. Example 4 and comparative 4 ': [0095] A face-care composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion was prepared having the following composition: - 2 g glyceryl stearate - Polyethylene glycol stearate (40 OE)

 (MYRJ 52 P of the CRODA house) 1.2 g -Sorbitan trteatearate (SPAN 65 V of the

 CRODA house) 0.9 g - Cetyl alcohol 4.4 g - Apricot kernel oil 5 g - Vaseline 2.5 g - Beeswax 0.75 g - Cyclohexasiloxane 9 g - Mix of polydimethylsiloxane alpha-omega

dihydroxylated / cyclopentadimethylsiloxane

 (14.7 / 85.3) (DOW CORNING 1501 FL of the

 Dow Corning house) 4 g-Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate 0.5 g-Glycosylated ascorbic acid 2 g -Triethanolamine 1.20 g -Corn starch 3 g -Adenosine 0.1 g -Tocopherol 0.2 g-Potassium cetyl phosphate 1, 5 g -OE-OP-OE block polymer (Synperonic®

 PE / F108 of the CRODA house) 0.4 g -Glycerol 5 g -Octane-1,2-diol 0.3 g -Cs preservatives -Csp water 100 g

A similar composition was also prepared, but which did not contain OE-OP-OE block copolymer (Synperonic® PE / F108 of CRODA) (composition 4 ', which is not part of the invention) (amount deleted replaced by it) water weight).

The emulsion of Example 4 exhibits good stability after 24 hours at 55 ° C. Under observation under a microscope, the emulsion obtained is fine and dense. [0096] The composition is applied to the face in daily day use. [0097] The comparative emulsion of Example 4 'is unstable after storage for 24 hours at 55 ° C: the emulsion, observed under a microscope, is thicker and more degraded. At first glance, a surface oil release is observed. Example 5: [0098] An oil-in-water emulsion face composition was prepared having the following composition: -Mostearate monostearate mixture glyceryl and of

 polyethylene glycol stearate (100 OE)

 (ARLACEL 165 FL of the house CRODA) 2 g -PEG stearate (20 OE) (MYRJ 49 P of the

 Uniquema house) 0.8 g -Stearyl alcohol 1 g -Mixes mono-y distearate (36/64) of

 Glyceryl 3 g-Stearic acid 3 g -4-tert-Butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane 3 g -2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate 7 g-2-ethylhexyl salicylate 5 g -Octyldodecanol 3 g - Cyclopentasiloxane 10 g - Beeswax 1 g - Myristyl myristate 2 g - 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid 0.3 g - Triethanolamine 0.46 g - Polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid

 partially neutralized with ammonia and

 highly crosslinked (Hostacerin AMPS de

 Clariant house) 1.3 g - Loads 3.2 g - Nacar 1 g - Adenosine 0.1 g - Aqueous dispersion of soy protein

 7% MA 5 g - Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 1.5 g - OE-OP-OE block polymer (Synperonic®

 PE / F108 of the CRODA house) 0.2 g -Glycerol 7 g -Conservants cs -Csp water 100 g [0099] This emulsion has a good stability after 24 hours at 55 ° C and also after 2 months at 45 ° C. Under observation under a microscope, the emulsion obtained is fine and dense. [0100] The composition is applied to the face in daily day use. [0101] A face-care composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion was prepared having the following composition: -Mixer of glyceryl monostearate and

 polyethylene glycol stearate (100 OE)

 (ARLACEL 165 FL of the house CRODA) 2 g -PEG stearate (20 OE) (MYRJ 49 P of the

 Uniquema house) 0.8 g - Stearyl alcohol 1 g - Stearic acid 3 g - Disodium salt of ethylenediaminetetra acid

acetic acid 0.1 g -4-tert-Butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane 3 g -2-ethylhexyl cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate 7 g-2-ethylhexyl salicylate 5 g -Octyldodecanol 3 g -Cyclopentasiloxane 10 g -Beeswax 1 g -Myristyl myristate 2 g-5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid 0.3 g -Triethanolamine 0.46 g-Polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid

 partially neutralized with ammonia and

 highly crosslinked (Hostacerin AMPS de

 Clariant house) 1.3 g - Loads 3.2 g - Nacar 1 g - Adenosine 0.1 g - Aqueous dispersion of soy protein

 7% MA 5 g -OE-OP-OE block polymer (Synperonic®

 PE / F108 of the CRODA house) 0.2 g -Glycerol 7 g -Conservants cs -Csp water 100 g [0102] A simi composition was also prepared

5 lar, but which did not contain OE-OP-OE block copolymer (Synperonic® PE / F108 of the CRODA house) (composition 6 ', which is not part of the invention) (suppressed amount replaced by the same weight of water) . [0103] The emulsion of example 6 has a good

10 stability after 24 hours at 55 ° C. Under observation under a microscope, the emulsion obtained is fine and dense. [0104] The composition is applied to the face in daily day use. [0105] The comparative emulsion of example 6 ’is in

15 stable after storage for 24 hours at 55 ° C: the emulsion, observed under a microscope, is thicker and more degraded. At first glance, a surface oil release is observed.

Claims (15)

 Claims 1. Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing: -a fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester; -an additional surfactant selected in between the C16-C22 and sorbitan fatty acid esters and the C16-C22 fatty acid esters and glyceryl esters; -a polycondensate of ethylene oxide and 10 propylene oxide consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks; - an active ingredient selected from ascorbic acid and its salts, glycosylated ascorbic acid, salicylic acid and derivatives of sa acid 15 alkyl of formula (I): image 1 where: -the radical R designates an aliphatic chain 20 from 2 to 22 linear, branched or cyclic saturated carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain of 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds, which may be conjugated; or an aromatic nucleus attached to the carbonyl radical directly or by means of aliphatic chains 25 saturated or unsaturated from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups may be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, selected from (a) the halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid of 1 to 6 atoms carbon, or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol of 1 to 6 carbon atoms; -R ’is a hydroxyl group; - as well as its salts from a mineral or organic base.

2.

Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized by selecting the active ingredient between magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosylated ascorbic acid and its mixture.

3.

Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the active ingredient is selected from salicylic acid or 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.

Four.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the active ingredient is present in a content of 0.05% to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

5.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized by selecting the fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester from the C16-C22 fatty acid esters having 8 to 100 units of ethylene oxide.

6.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized by selecting the fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester from polyethylene glycol stearates.

7.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester has 20 to 40 units of ethylene oxide.

8.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it includes a C16-C22 and sorbitan fatty acid ester selected from sorbitan stearates.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it includes a C16-C22 fatty acid ester and a glyceryl ester selected from glyceryl stearates.

10.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized by including a mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol monostearate with 100 OE.

eleven.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it includes a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock.

12.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide has a weight average molecular weight of 1,000 to 15,000 and better than 2,000 to 13,000.

13.

Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it includes a hydrophilic polysaccharide gelling agent.

14.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized by including at least one cosmetic or dermatological adjuvant selected from UV filters, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, bactericides, odor absorbers, coloring materials, salts, salts. surfactants, thickeners and bases.

fifteen.

Non-therapeutic procedure of care or make-up of keratin materials, consisting of the application on keratin materials of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.