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EP4633597A1 - Composition comprenant un agent filtrant les uv, un polymère lipophile sélectionné de manière appropriée et un carraghénane - Google Patents

Composition comprenant un agent filtrant les uv, un polymère lipophile sélectionné de manière appropriée et un carraghénane

Info

Publication number
EP4633597A1
EP4633597A1 EP23821247.6A EP23821247A EP4633597A1 EP 4633597 A1 EP4633597 A1 EP 4633597A1 EP 23821247 A EP23821247 A EP 23821247A EP 4633597 A1 EP4633597 A1 EP 4633597A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
compounds
composition according
composition
weight
wax
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP23821247.6A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Manon DORCHIES
Salahddine SOUDANI
Stéphane DOUEZAN
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP4633597A1 publication Critical patent/EP4633597A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one UV-screening agent, at least one suitably selected lipophilic polymer and at least one carrageenan, and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for caring for and treating keratin materials, and notably for caring for, protecting and/or making up the skin of the body or the face, or for haircare.
  • photoprotective compositions are already known to date for protecting keratin materials, and more particularly the skin, against the harmful effects induced by UVA and/or UVB radiation. They mostly contain a combination of several organic or inorganic UV-screening agents, conveyed in an oily phase and/or in an aqueous phase as anti-UV active agent and are generally proposed in a presentation form of emulsion or gel type.
  • UV-B rays radiation with wavelengths of between 280 nm and 400 nm permits tanning of the human epidermis and that radiation with wavelengths of between 280 and 320 nm, known as UV-B rays, harms the development of a natural tan. Such exposure is also liable to induce impairment in the biomechanical properties of the epidermis, which is reflected by the appearance of wrinkles, leading to premature ageing of the skin.
  • UV-A rays with wavelengths of between 320 and 400 nm penetrate more deeply into the skin than UV-B rays. UV-A rays cause immediate and persistent browning of the skin. Daily exposure to UVA rays, even for a short period, under normal conditions can lead to degradation of the collagen and elastin fibres, which is reflected by a change in the skin’s microrelief, the appearance of wrinkles and non-uniform pigmentation (liver spots, or heterogeneity of the complexion).
  • UVA and UVB radiation Protection against UVA and UVB radiation is therefore necessary.
  • An effective photoprotective product must protect against both UVA and UVB radiation.
  • photoprotective compositions have been proposed to date to overcome the effects induced by UVA and/or UVB radiation. They generally contain organic UV screening agents and/or inorganic UV screening agents, which function according to their intrinsic chemical nature and according to their intrinsic properties by absorption, reflection or scattering of the UV radiation. They generally contain mixtures of liposoluble organic screening agents and/or of water-soluble UV-screening agents combined with metal oxide pigments such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.
  • compositions intended to limit darkening of the skin, and to improve the colour and uniformity of the complexion have been proposed to date. It is well known in the field of antisun products that such compositions can be obtained by using UV-screening agents, and in particular UVB-screening agents. Some compositions may also contain UVA-screening agents. This screening system must cover UVB protection for the purpose of limiting and controlling the neosynthesis of melanin promoting overall pigmentation, but must also cover UVA protection in order to limit and control the oxidation of the already existing melanin resulting in darkening of the skin.
  • the active substances such as the UV-screening agents, tend to become diluted, impairing their skin protection properties.
  • an antisun composition that does not have the drawbacks mentioned above, i.e. an antisun composition that is stable, compatible with application to both dry and wet skin, and with a high level of in vivo sun protection efficacy (SPF), whether the product is applied to dry or wet skin.
  • SPF sun protection efficacy
  • a composition comprising one or more UV-screening agents, one or more suitably selected lipophilic polymers, and one or more polysaccharides chosen from carrageenans, allows the abovementioned objectives to be achieved; notably to obtain a screening composition which has excellent compatibility with wet skin, which allows it to be applied to both dry and wet skin, and which leads to a high SPF on both dry and wet skin.
  • composition and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:
  • R1 independently of each other, are chosen from alkyl or alkenyl radicals
  • the groups R1 being radicals chosen from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the weight percentage being relative to the sum of all the groups R1 present in the polymer;
  • the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the group R1 ranges from 1:30 to 1:1;
  • the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer
  • composition of the invention allows satisfactory application to wet skin combined with a high level of sun protection.
  • the composition of the invention has good working properties. It spreads easily on both wet and dry skin and allows uniform application without the appearance of a whitish film on the skin.
  • the composition also makes it possible to screen out UV rays to a high SPF, consequently resulting in better skin protection, whether the composition is applied to dry or wet skin.
  • composition of the invention is also stable over time.
  • composition of the invention has good cosmetic properties, notably in terms of the tacky feel. Specifically, it is pleasant and sparingly tacky.
  • the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of said keratin material, of at least one composition according to the invention as defined previously.
  • a subject of the present invention is notably a process for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin, in particular human skin, notably dry skin and/or wet skin, against UV radiation, which consists in applying to said skin the composition according to the invention as defined previously.
  • the invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or improving the colour and/or uniformity of the complexion, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition according to the invention as defined previously.
  • the invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition according to the invention as defined previously.
  • stable over time refers to a composition which, after one month, preferably after two months, of storage at a temperature ranging from 4°C to 45°C, does not show any macroscopic change in colour, odour or viscosity, or any variation in pH, and also no variation in microscopic appearance.
  • the term “good compatibility on wet skin” means that when the composition is applied at a rate of 2 mg.cm -2 to the skin or a skin substitute substrate that has been previously wetted, a homogeneous film that is transparent to the naked eye is obtained.
  • the term “SPF” means the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB rays.
  • the SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time it takes to obtain a sunburn with an antisun composition to the time it takes without a product. More specifically, the “SPF” is defined in the article A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum , J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (March/June 1989).
  • the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) may be evaluated in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer.
  • the sheet is the material onto which the antisun composition is applied.
  • Polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) sheets have proven to be ideal for this protocol.
  • the term “PPD” Persistent Pigment Darkening means the index characterizing protection against UVA rays.
  • the PPD measures the colour of the skin observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA rays. This method has been adopted since 1996 by the Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as the official test procedure for the UVA labelling of products and is frequently used by test laboratories in Europe and the United States (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin. Measurement Standards for UVA protection efficacy. Issued November 21, 1995 and effective as of January 1, 1996).
  • JCIA Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association
  • composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and thus contains a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • physiologically acceptable medium means here a medium that is compatible with keratin materials.
  • the term “keratin material” notably means the skin, the scalp, keratin fibres such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, head hair, bodily hair, the nails, and mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (of the body, face, area around the eyes, eyelids or lips, preferably of the body, face and lips).
  • the term “preventing” or “prevention” means reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of ageing of a keratin material.
  • organic UVA-screening agent refers to any organic chemical molecule that is capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule may also additionally absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.
  • organic UVB-screening agent refers to any organic chemical molecule that is capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.
  • emulsion means any kinetically stable macroscopically homogeneous composition comprising at least two mutually immiscible phases, one being the continuous dispersing phase and the other being dispersed in said continuous phase in the form of droplets.
  • the two phases are kinetically stabilized using at least one emulsifying system comprising, in general, at least one emulsifying surfactant.
  • composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one UV-screening agent.
  • the UV-screening agent(s) may be chosen from lipophilic organic UV-screening agents, hydrophilic organic UV-screening agents and inorganic UV-screening agents.
  • lipophilic organic screening agent means any cosmetic or dermatological organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid fatty phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.
  • the lipophilic organic screening agents are notably chosen from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in patent US 5 624 663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzazolyl compounds, as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2 463 264; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, as described in patent applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole compounds, as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844; screening polymers and screening silicones, such as those described
  • the lipophilic organic screening agent(s) are chosen from salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.
  • lipophilic organic photoprotective agents mention may be made of those denoted hereinbelow under their INCI name and/or their chemical name:
  • Cinnamic compounds are Cinnamic compounds:
  • Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate notably sold under the trade name Parsol® MCX by the company DSM Nutritional Products,
  • Neo Heliopan E 1000® Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000® by the company Symrise,
  • Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane notably sold under the trade name Parsol® 1789 by the company DSM Nutritional Products,
  • Ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan® OS by the company Symrise,
  • Octocrylene notably sold under the trade name Uvinul® N 539 T by the company BASF,
  • Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone sold under the trade name Uvinul® M 40 by BASF,
  • Hexyl (diethylamino-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate sold under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus or, as a mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus B by the company BASF,
  • Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol notably in solid form, such as the product sold under the trade name Mixxim BB/100® by the company Fairmount Chemical,
  • Neo Heliopan® MA Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan® MA by the company Symrise,
  • Polyorganosiloxane bearing benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name Parsol SLX® by the company Hoffmann-LaRoche.
  • hydrophilic organic UV-screening agent means a water-soluble organic UV-screening agent or a water-dispersible organic UV-screening agent.
  • water-soluble organic screening agent means any organic screening agent that can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or that can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
  • water-dispersible organic screening agent means any organic screening agent that is capable of forming, in a liquid aqueous phase, a homogeneous suspension of particles with a volume-mean size of less than 100 microns.
  • the volume-mean size is determined by laser diffraction granulometry.
  • benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic) acid (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and the various salts thereof, notably described in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A-2639347.
  • Mention may notably be made of benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as the product which is manufactured under the name Mexoryl® SX by the company Noveal.
  • F denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or a radical NH(R 1 ) 3 + in which the radicals R 1 , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, a C 1 to C 4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical or a group Mn + , Mn + denoting a polyvalent metal cation in which n is equal to 2 or 3 or 4, Mn + preferably denoting a metal cation chosen from Ca 2+ , Zn 2+ , Mg 2+ , Ba 2+ , Al 3+ and Zr 4+ . It is clearly understood that the compounds of formula (I) above can give rise to the “cis-trans” isomer around one or more double bonds and that all the isomers fall within the context of the present invention.
  • - Z represents an organic residue of valency (l + n) including one or more double bonds placed such that it completes the system of double bonds of at least two benzazolyl groups as defined inside the square brackets so as to form a fully conjugated assembly;
  • - X’ denotes S, O or NR 6 ;
  • R 1 denotes a hydrogen atom, a C 1 to C 18 alkyl, a C 1 to C 4 alkoxy, a C 5 to C 15 aryl, a C 2 to C 18 acyloxy, or a group SO 3 Y or COOY;
  • radicals R 2 , R 3 , R 4 and R 5 which may be identical or different, denote a nitro group or a radical R 1 ;
  • R 6 denotes a hydrogen atom, a C 1 to C 4 alkyl or a C 1 to C 4 hydroxyalkyl
  • - Y denotes a hydrogen atom, Li, Na, K, NH 4 , 1/2Ca, 1/2Mg, 1/3Al or a cation resulting from the neutralization of a free acid group with an organonitrogen base;
  • - m is 0 or 1;
  • - n is a number from 2 to 6;
  • - l is a number from 1 to 4.
  • the water-soluble screening agent that is capable of absorbing UVA rays is benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as the product which is manufactured under the name Mexoryl SX by Noveal.
  • the water-soluble organic UVB-screening agents that may be used according to the present invention are notably chosen from water-soluble cinnamic derivatives, such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid; water-soluble benzylidenecamphor compounds; water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds; water-soluble p-aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds; water-soluble salicylic compounds, and mixtures thereof.
  • water-soluble cinnamic derivatives such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid
  • water-soluble benzylidenecamphor compounds water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds
  • PABA water-soluble p-aminobenzoic
  • phenylbenzimidazole compounds such as 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid) notably sold under the trade name Eusolex 232 ® by Merck.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one mixed water-soluble screening agent that is capable of absorbing UVA and UVB rays.
  • water-soluble UV-screening agent When the water-soluble UV-screening agent is of sulfonic acid type, it is preferably associated with an organic base, such as an alkanolamine.
  • alkanolamine means a C 2 -C 10 compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function and at least one alcohol, generally primary alcohol, function.
  • suitable alkanolamines mention may be made of 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol (INCI name: Tromethamine) and triethanolamine.
  • 1,1’-(1,4-Piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone] (CAS 919803-06-8), such as described in patent application WO 2007/071 584; this compound advantageously being used in micronized form (volume-mean size of 0.02 to 2 ⁇ m), which may be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in patent applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119, and notably in the form of an aqueous dispersion.
  • aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume-mean particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 ⁇ m, and more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 ⁇ m, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 ⁇ m, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant having the structure C n H 2n+1 O(C 6 H 10 O 5 ) x H in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the (C 6 H 10 O 5 ) unit and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, such as the aqueous dispersions described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, notably the product sold under the trade name Tinosorb® M by the company BASF, or
  • aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume-mean particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 ⁇ m, more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 ⁇ m and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 ⁇ m, in the presence of at least one mono(C 8 -C 20 )alkyl polyglycerol ester having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of at least 5, such as the aqueous dispersions described in patent application WO 2009/063392, notably the product sold under the name Tinosorb WPGL by the company BASF,
  • naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups used in micronized form which may be obtained, for example, via the micronization process described in patent applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119, and notably in aqueous dispersion form, notably 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)triazine sold under the name Tinosorb® A2B by the company BASF and included in patent applications WO 06/035000, WO 06/034982, WO 06/034991, WO 06/035007, WO 2006/034992 and WO 2006/034985,
  • the inorganic UV screening agents that may be used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the inorganic UV-screening agents of the invention are metal oxide particles with a mean elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 ⁇ m, more preferentially between 0.005 and 0.5 ⁇ m, even more preferentially between 0.01 and 0.2 ⁇ m, better still between 0.01 and 0.1 ⁇ m and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 ⁇ m. They are notably described in appendix VI, updated on 22/152021, of the European regulation on cosmetic products number 1223/2009, but are not limited to that list.
  • They may notably be chosen from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide, or mixtures thereof.
  • Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773.
  • Commercial pigments that may be mentioned include the products sold by the companies Croda, Tayca and Merck.
  • the metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.
  • the coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
  • compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
  • coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides that have been coated:
  • silica and alumina such as the products MT 500 SA® and MT 100 SA® from the company Tayca, and TioveilTM AQ-N from the company Croda,
  • alumina and aluminium stearate such as the products MT 100 TV®, MT 100 Z® and MT-01® from the company Tayca, the product Solaveil CT100 from the company Croda and the product Eusolex T-AVO® from the company Merck,
  • TiO 2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc or manganese and more particularly manganese are in the form of an oily dispersion.
  • the oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric/caprylic acids.
  • the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may also include one or more dispersants, for instance a sorbitan ester, for instance sorbitan isostearate, or a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol, for instance TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate.
  • the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles includes at least one dispersant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol. Mention may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of TiO 2 particles doped with manganese in capric/caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate having the INCI name: titanium dioxide (and) TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate (and) polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate, or the product sold under the trade name OptisolTM OTP-1 by the company Croda.
  • Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Tayca under the trade names MT-500B and MT-600B®, or by the company Evonik under the trade name Degussa P 25.
  • the uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
  • NanoArc® Zinc Oxide sold under the name NanoArc® Zinc Oxide by the company Nanophase Technologies.
  • coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
  • the uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name Rhodigard® W185 by the company Solvay.
  • composition in accordance with the invention comprises inorganic UV-screening agents, coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.
  • the total amount of UV-screening agents present in the composition is greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the total amount of UV-screening agents present in the composition is between 15% and 35% by weight and preferably between 18% and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • total amount of UV screening agent means the sum of the active material concentrations of each of the UV-screening agents present in the composition, in particular lipophilic organic UV-screening agents, hydrophilic organic UV-screening agents and inorganic UV-screening agents.
  • composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one lipophilic polymer comprising monomer units of formulae (A) and (B):
  • R 1 independently of each other, are chosen from alkyl or alkenyl radicals
  • the groups R 1 being radicals chosen from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the weight percentage being relative to the sum of all the groups R 1 present in the polymer;
  • the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the group R 1 ranges from 1:30 to 1:1;
  • R 1 consists of alkyl radicals, preferably of C 16 -C 22 alkyl radicals, and more preferentially stearyl (C 18 ) radicals or of behenyl (C 22 ) radicals.
  • At least 70% by weight of the groups R 1 are stearyl or behenyl radicals, preferentially at least 80% by weight and more preferentially at least 90% by weight.
  • all the groups R 1 are behenyl radicals.
  • all the groups R 1 are stearyl radicals.
  • said weight ratio ranges from 1:15 to 1:1 and preferentially ranges from 1:10 to 1:4.
  • the polymer units present in the polymer consist of the units (A) and (B) previously described.
  • the polymer has a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2000 to 9000 g/mol, preferably ranging from 5000 to 9000 g/mol.
  • the number-average molecular weight may be measured via the gel permeation chromatography method, for example according to the method described in the example hereinbelow.
  • the polymer has a melting point ranging from 40°C to 70°C and preferentially ranging from 45°C to 67°C.
  • the melting point is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), for example according to the method described in the example hereinbelow.
  • the polymer when the problem is such that at least 60% by weight of the groups R1 are stearyl radicals, then the polymer generally has a melting point ranging from 40 to 60°C, and preferentially ranging from 45 to 55°C.
  • the polymer when the problem is such that at least 60% by weight of the groups R1 are behenyl radicals, then the polymer generally has a melting point ranging from 60 to 70°C, and preferentially ranging from 63 to 67°C.
  • the polymerization may be performed according to known methods, such as solution polymerization or emulsion polymerization.
  • the polymerization is, for example, described in US 2007/0264204.
  • the lipophilic polymer(s) used in the context of the invention and as described previously may be present in the composition in an active material amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one carrageenan.
  • Carrageenans are polysaccharides extracted from algae, and are used in the food industry as gelling agents. In particular, they are sulfated polysaccharides which constitute the cell walls of various red algae, from which they may be obtained.
  • red algae mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of Kappaphycus alvarezii , Eucheuma denticulatum , Eucheuma spinosum , Chondrus crispus , Betaphycus gelatinum , Gigartina skottsbergii , Gigartina canaliculata , Sarcothalia crispata , Mazzaella laminaroides , Hypnea musciformis , Mastocarpus stellatus and Iridaea cordata .
  • Carrageenans include long galactan chains formed by disaccharide units.
  • Each sugar unit may be sulfated one or more times in position 2, 3, 4 or 6.
  • Methyl groups, pyruvic acids and also other sugar units may also be grafted onto the basic structures described previously.
  • Carrageenans were initially subdivided into subfamilies according to their solubility in KCl, and then according to the number and position of the sulfate groups and the presence of 3’,6’-anhydro bridges on the galactopyranosyl residues.
  • carrageenans there are at least fifteen listed carrageenans, the structure of which depends on the algae of origin and the extraction method.
  • the carrageenans that can be used may notably be chosen from carrageenans of the ⁇ , ⁇ , v, ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ type and mixtures thereof, in any proportions. Carrageenans of ⁇ form, ⁇ form or ⁇ form, or mixtures thereof, will notably be used.
  • the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one carrageenan predominantly comprising ⁇ forms, or exclusively in ⁇ form.
  • composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one carrageenan predominantly comprising ⁇ forms, or exclusively in ⁇ form.
  • the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one carrageenan predominantly comprising ⁇ forms, or exclusively in ⁇ form and at least one carrageenan predominantly comprising ⁇ forms, or exclusively in ⁇ form.
  • the ratio between the carrageenans predominantly comprising ⁇ forms or exclusively in ⁇ form and the carrageenans predominantly comprising ⁇ forms or exclusively in ⁇ form is between 0.2 and 5, preferentially between 0.75 and 1.25.
  • the carrageenans according to the invention are carrageenans derived from Chondrus crispus or Kappaphycus alvarezii .
  • the carrageenans are derived from Chondrus crispus .
  • the molecular weight of the carrageenans that are useful for the present invention may be between 300 and 100 ⁇ 10 6 daltons. Their molecular weight may preferentially be between 10 ⁇ 10 3 daltons and 10 ⁇ 10 6 daltons.
  • Carrageenans that are particularly suitable for use according to the invention may notably be extracted from Chondrus crispus , such as those sold by the company Cargill.
  • a carrageenan according to the invention may be the product Satiagum UPC 410 sold by the company Cargill.
  • carrageenans that are suitable for use according to the invention are the products AEC Carrageenan Gel and AEC Carrageenan Powder sold by the company A&E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics), the products Gelcarin GP379 and Gelcarin GP812, Gelcarin GP911, SeaSpen PF, Viscarin GP109, Viscarin GP209 and Viscarin GP328 sold by the company FMC Corporation, and the products Genugel Carrageenan and Genuvisco Carrageenan sold by the company CP Kelco.
  • the carrageenan(s) are generally present in the composition in accordance with the invention in a content of between 0.2% and 10.0% by weight, better still between 0.5% and 7.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one wax.
  • the wax(es) are generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 200°C and usually up to 120°C.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the waxes that may be used in the composition of the present invention have a heat of fusion ⁇ Hf of greater than or equal to 70 J/g.
  • the waxes include at least one crystallizable part, which is visible by X-ray observation.
  • the measuring protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature ramp passing from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C per minute, it is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C per minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature ramp passing from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C per minute.
  • a first temperature ramp passing from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C per minute
  • it is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C per minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature ramp passing from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C per minute.
  • a second temperature ramp passing from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C per minute.
  • the melting temperature or melting point (m.p.) of the wax as mentioned previously, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in the melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature
  • the wax(es) may be present in a total content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, better still from 2% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.
  • the wax(es) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition in accordance with the invention more precisely comprises at least one hard wax.
  • hard wax means a wax having a melting point of greater than or equal to 50°C, in particular ranging from 50 to 100°C, more preferentially between 50 and 90°C.
  • hard wax means a wax having, at 20°C, a hardness of greater than 5 MPa, notably ranging from 5 to 30 MPa, preferably greater than 6 MPa, better still ranging from 6 to 25 MPa.
  • the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20°C. To do this, 30 g of wax are placed in a 100 ml beaker with a diameter equal to 50 mm, which is itself placed on a magnetic stirring hotplate.
  • the mechanical properties of the wax or wax mixture are determined in a temperature-controlled room at 20°C, using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2i by the company Swantech, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter.
  • the measurement includes three steps: a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample, where the spindle moves at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrates into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, the software notes the maximum force value reached; a second “relaxation” step where the spindle remains in this position for one second and the force is noted after 1 second of relaxation; finally, a third “withdrawal” step in which the spindle returns to its initial position at a speed of 1 mm/s, and the probe withdrawal energy (negative force) is noted.
  • the hardness value corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in newtons divided by the area of the texturometer cylinder expressed in mm 2 in contact with the wax.
  • the hardness value obtained is expressed in megapascals or MPa.
  • hard waxes examples include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, rice bran wax, sumac wax, sunflower wax, macadamia wax and hydrogenated olive oil such as Waxolive from the company Soliance, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with C12 to C18 fatty-chain alcohols such as those sold by the company Sophim under the trade names Phytowax Olive 16L55 and 18L57, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl or behenyl alcohol, for instance those sold under the trade names Phytowax Ricin 16 L 64 and Phytowax Ricin 22 L 73 by the company Sophim.
  • Use is preferably made of waxes of plant origin such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sumac wax, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with C12 to C18 fatty-chain alcohols, or rice bran wax.
  • waxes of plant origin such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sumac wax, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with C12 to C18 fatty-chain alcohols, or rice bran wax.
  • the hard wax(es) are preferably polar.
  • polar wax means a wax whose solubility parameter calculated above its melting point ⁇ a is other than 0 (J/cm 3 )1 ⁇ 2.
  • polar wax means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
  • ⁇ a ( ⁇ p2 + ⁇ h2)1 ⁇ 2.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one soft wax, i.e. a wax whose melting point is strictly less than 50°C, and optionally a wax whose hardness is strictly less than 5 MPa.
  • a composition according to the invention preferably includes less than 5% by weight of soft waxes, preferably less than 2% by weight of soft waxes, and even more preferentially is free of soft waxes.
  • the composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more silicone copolymers resulting from the copolymerization of at least one monomer of carboxylic acid and alcohol ester type with a C6 to C30, preferably C8 to C24, fatty chain, with at least one monomer containing a polyalkylsiloxane chain.
  • carboxylic acid and fatty-chain alcohol ester type monomers that may be used according to the present invention, mention may notably be made of C6 to C30, preferably C8 to C24, fatty-chain alkyl acrylates, methacrylates, maleates, fumarates, itaconates and crotonates, and mixtures thereof.
  • the monomer(s) of the C6 to C30 fatty-chain alcohol carboxylic acid ester type are chosen from C6 to C30, preferably C8 to C24, fatty-chain alcohol (meth)acrylic acid esters.
  • the monomer(s) of the carboxylic acid and C6 to C30 fatty-chain alkyl ester type are preferentially chosen from the compounds of structure (IV) and mixtures thereof: (IV)
  • R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • R2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C30 and preferably C8 to C24 alkyl chain.
  • R2 advantageously represents a branched, saturated or unsaturated C8 to C24 alkyl chain.
  • R1 represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a branched, saturated or unsaturated C8 to C12 alkyl chain, more preferentially a 2-ethylhexyl group.
  • R1 represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated C14 to C20 alkyl chain, more preferentially a stearyl group.
  • the monomer(s) containing a polyalkylsiloxane chain are chosen from monomers of (meth)acrylic acid type esterified with a silicone group of structure (V): (V)
  • R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • R4, R5, R6, R7 and R8 independently of each other, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 to C30 alkyl chain,
  • n and m represent, independently of each other, an integer greater than or equal to 1.
  • R3 represents a methyl
  • R4, R5, R6, R7 and R8, independently of each other, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 to C24 and more preferentially C1 to C12 alkyl chain.
  • R3, R4, R5, R6, R7 and R8 represent a methyl.
  • the silicone copolymer(s) according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more additional monomers, and notably one or more carboxylic acid and C1 to C5 alcohol ester monomers.
  • the additional monomer(s) are chosen from esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of C1 to C4 alcohol and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from methyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, butyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, ethyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the silicone copolymer(s) present in the composition(s) according to the present invention are chosen from copolymers resulting from the copolymerization of at least one monomer of structure (IV) in which R1 represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched C7 to C24 alkyl chain, with at least one monomer of structure (V) in which R3, R4, R5, R6, R7 and R8 all represent a methyl group, n is an integer between 1 and 6, and m represents an integer greater than or equal to 1; and mixtures thereof.
  • the silicone copolymer(s) are generally obtained according to the usual methods of polymerization and grafting, for example by radical polymerization of at least one monomer of polydimethylsiloxane type comprising at least one polymerizable radical group (for example on one of the ends of the chain or at both ends), as described previously, and at least one carboxylic acid alkyl ester monomer with a C7 to C30 fatty chain, as described, for example, in US-A-5 061 481 and US-A-5 219 560.
  • the silicone copolymer(s) obtained generally have a molecular weight ranging from about 3000 to 200 000, and preferably from about 5000 to 100 000.
  • the silicone copolymer(s) used in the composition according to the present invention may be in their native form or in a form dispersed in a solvent such as lower alcohols including from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as isopropyl alcohol, or oils, such as preferably volatile silicone oils, such as cyclopentasiloxane or a dimethicone, or even hydrocarbon-based oils, such as liquid paraffins, or isoparaffins, such as isododecane.
  • a solvent such as lower alcohols including from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as isopropyl alcohol, or oils, such as preferably volatile silicone oils, such as cyclopentasiloxane or a dimethicone, or even hydrocarbon-based oils, such as liquid paraffins, or isoparaffins, such as isododecane.
  • the solvent is chosen from oils, and more preferentially from cyclopentasiloxane, linear pentadimethylsiloxane and mixtures thereof.
  • the silicone copolymer(s) that may be used in the composition according to the present invention are preferentially chosen from stearyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate and propyl methacrylate copolymers containing a polydimethylsiloxane chain; methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and propyl methacrylate copolymers containing a polydimethylsiloxane chain; and mixtures thereof.
  • acrylate/dimethicone copolymers sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the trade names KP-561 (copolymer of stearyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate and propyl methacrylate containing a polydimethylsiloxane group); KP-541 in which the copolymer is dispersed in isopropyl alcohol; KP-545 in which the copolymer of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and propyl methacrylate bearing a polydimethylsiloxane group is dispersed in decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane; KP-545L in which the copolymer of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate and propyl methacrylate bearing a polydimethylsiloxane group is disper
  • the silicone copolymer(s) present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from the products sold under the trade names KP-545 and KP-545L by the company Shin-Etsu.
  • the amount of the silicone copolymer(s), when they are present in the composition of the invention preferably ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.
  • the fatty phase may consist of any fatty substance conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields: it notably comprises the wax(es) defined previously and may comprise at least one oil.
  • the fatty phase also comprises the lipophilic screening agent(s), and also the fatty alcohol(s) present in the composition according to the invention.
  • oil means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile oil means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fibre in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • non-volatile oil means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that notably has a vapour pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means any oil predominantly including carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen.
  • these oils may notably contain one or more ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.
  • silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and notably at least one Si-O group.
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may notably be made of:
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as glyceride triesters, which are generally fatty acid triesters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths from C 4 to C 24 , these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are notably wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame seed oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil and musk rose oil; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid
  • synthetic esters such as the oils of formula RCOOR’ in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R’ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is notably branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R + R’ ⁇ 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by the company Witco or Tegosoft TN® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226® by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononon
  • fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, bearing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;
  • carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC® by the company Cognis;
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used according to the invention, preference will be given more particularly to glyceride triesters and in particular to caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and notably diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, notably octyldodecanol.
  • the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate and dicaprylyl carbonate.
  • hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may notably be made of hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and notably branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils for instance petroleum distillates, notably those sold under the name Shell Solt® by the company Shell, may also be used.
  • the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
  • the non-volatile silicone oils may be notably chosen from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes including alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.
  • PDMSs non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphen
  • Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned, for example, include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, notably those with a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 ⁇ 10 -6 m 2 /s) and notably containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally including alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may notably be made of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • Use may also be made of volatile fluoro oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoro-pentane, and mixtures thereof.
  • volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoro-pentane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty phase according to the invention may also comprise other fatty substances, mixed with or dissolved in the oil.
  • Another fatty substance that may be present in the oily phase may be, for example:
  • a fatty acid chosen from fatty acids including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, different from the fatty-chain amino acids as defined previously, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;
  • a pasty compound such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof;
  • the overall oily phase including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, including the lipophilic screening agents, represents from 20% to 60% by weight and preferentially from 25% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase contains water and optionally other water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvents.
  • An aqueous phase that is suitable for use in the invention may comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint-Gervais Mont Blanc or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.
  • a natural spring water such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint-Gervais Mont Blanc or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.
  • the water-soluble or water-miscible solvents that are suitable for use in the invention comprise, besides the short-chain alcohols as defined previously, diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
  • diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the overall aqueous phase including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition which are capable of being dissolved in this same phase, including hydrophilic screening agents, represents from 40% to 80% by weight and preferably from 55% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active agent.
  • moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates, polyglycerol-3; natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; ⁇ -hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and derivatives thereof; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; tensioning agents; agents acting on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.
  • moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates, polyglycerol-3; natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives of said vitamins (
  • the composition comprises at least one moisturizer.
  • Said moisturizer is preferably polyglycerol-3.
  • composition of the present invention may also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example fragrances, chelating agents (for example, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA), preserving agents (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, additional thickeners (such as acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, polysaccharides other than carrageenans, notably xanthan gum), pH regulators (for example triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide), fillers (for example aluminium starch octenylsuccinate and polymethylsilsesquioxane) and mixtures thereof.
  • fragrances for example, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA
  • preserving agents for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol
  • bactericides for example, additional thickeners (such as acrylamide/sodium acryloyld
  • a person skilled in the art may select the amount of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to adversely affect the end use of the composition according to the present invention.
  • compositions according to the invention may be prepared according to techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art. They may in particular be in the form of a simple or complex emulsion (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W), such as a cream, a milk or a cream gel.
  • a simple or complex emulsion O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W
  • the composition is in the form of an emulsion. It may notably be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (inverse emulsion). Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions are of the paddle or impeller, rotor-stator and HPH type.
  • the emulsions may generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.
  • the emulsifiers are chosen in an appropriate manner according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W emulsion).
  • W/O emulsifying surfactants examples include alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars; silicone surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C® by the company Dow Corning, and alkyldimethicone copolyols such as laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning; cetyldimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by the company Goldschmidt, and the mixture of cetyldimethicone copolyol, of polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and of hexyl laurate, sold under the name Abil WE O9® by the company Goldschmidt.
  • non-silicone emulsifying surfactants notably alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars.
  • Polyol alkyl esters that may notably be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters, for instance PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135® by the company ICI.
  • glycerol and/or sorbitan esters examples include polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34® by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987® by the company ICI; sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986® by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.
  • nonionic emulsifying surfactants examples include polyoxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, such as the polyethylene glycol stearic acid ester having the INCI name PEG-100 Stearate sold under the name Myrj S100-PA-(SG) by the company Croda; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; polyoxyalkylenated (in particular polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, optionally in combination with an ester of fatty acid and of glycerol, such as the PEG-100 stearate/glyceryl stearate mixture sold, for example, by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or
  • the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, for example as described in WO-A-92/06778.
  • anionic surfactants allowing O/W emulsions to be produced, mention may be made of surfactants chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C 8 -C 30 , preferably C 8 -C 24 , hydrocarbon-based chain, and salts thereof, in particular acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or a salt thereof (acyl glutamates), such as stearoyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof, notably sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).
  • acyl glutamic acids INCI name: acyl glutamic acid
  • acyl glutamates such as stearoyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof, notably sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).
  • Such compounds are sold under the name Amisoft by the company Ajinomoto and notably under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or even under the name Eumulgin SG by the company Cognis.
  • hydrophobically modified polysaccharides notably inulins modified with hydrophobic chains such as alkylcarbamate groups, in particular C8-C18 alkyl carbamate groups, and more particularly laurylcarbamate groups.
  • the aqueous phase of this emulsion may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).
  • compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, notably cosmetic treatments, for the skin, the lips and the hair, including the scalp, notably for protecting and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or the hair, and/or for making up the skin and/or the lips.
  • cosmetic treatments for the skin, the lips and the hair, including the scalp, notably for protecting and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or the hair, and/or for making up the skin and/or the lips.
  • compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, the lips, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and/or the scalp, notably care products, antisun products and makeup products.
  • the sample is prepared by preparing a solution of the polymer at 10 mg/ml in tetrahydrofuran. The sample is placed in an oven at 54°C for 10 minutes and then in an oscillating shaker for 60 minutes to aid dissolution. After visual inspection, the sample appears to be totally dissolved in the solvent.
  • the sample prepared was analysed using two polypore 300 ⁇ 7.5 mm columns (manufactured by Agilent Technologies), a Waters 2695 chromatographic system, a tetrahydrofuran mobile phase and detection by refractive index.
  • the sample was filtered through a 0.45 ⁇ m nylon filter, before being injected into the liquid chromatograph.
  • the standards used for the calibration are the Easi Vial narrow polystyrene (PS) standards from Agilent Technologies.
  • Polystyrene standards ranging from 2 520 000 to 162 daltons were used for the calibration.
  • the system is equipped with a PSS SECcurity 1260 RI detector.
  • the polystyrene calibration curve was used to determine the average molecular weight.
  • the recording of the diagrams and the determination of the various molecular weights were performed by the Win GPC Unichrom 81 program.
  • This method describes the general procedure for determining the melting point of polymers by differential scanning calorimetry. This method is based on the standards ASTM E791 and ASTM D 34182 and the DSC calibration is performed according to standard ASTM E 9672.
  • the solvent was then removed by vacuum distillation, then 1 g of dilauryl peroxide was added and the reaction was continued for 60 minutes at 110°C. The step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90°C, a stream of demineralized water was added and the mixture was then stirred. The water was removed by vacuum distillation.
  • the solvent was then removed by vacuum distillation, then 1 g of dilauryl peroxide was added and the reaction was continued for 60 minutes at 125 °C. The step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90°C, a stream of demineralized water was added and the mixture was then stirred. The water was removed by vacuum distillation.
  • the amounts of the ingredients present in the compositions are given as weight percentages of starting materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • This application is performed on the backs of three to ten volunteers.
  • Areas of 30 cm2 on the back will be selected between the shoulder blades and the lower back for application of the products.
  • the drops of product to be applied must be deposited evenly over the entire area and be of a uniform size. Care should be taken to ensure that the drops are not too close to the edges of the area to avoid excessive over-running during application.
  • the pressure applied must be light, and circular movements are essential. Ideally, it is necessary to start with small circles and widen them within the area, always in the same direction, moving gradually towards the other end of the area. To avoid excessive concentration of product in the centre, care must be taken to ensure that the product is drawn right up to the edge. Linear movements, for the finishing step, must be straight. It is recommended to perform this step quickly so as not to impair the homogeneity of the deposit.
  • the application procedure for wet skin is identical to that for dry skin.
  • Water is first applied in an amount of 1.7 mg/cm2 and the product in an amount of 2 mg/cm2 ⁇ 2.5%.
  • the skin should still appear damp (micro-droplets visible on the surface).
  • the antisun product to be tested should be applied immediately according to the method described previously.
  • SPF Sun Protection Factor
  • phase A1, A2 and A3 successively in a stainless steel beaker. Place the beaker on a hotplate at 55°C with Rayneri blending. Once the phase is clear, add phase A4 to the beaker and then phases A5 and A6. Leave to homogenize for a few minutes until no more white grains are visible. Finish by adding phase A7, gradually increasing the stirring speed of the Rayneri blender. Once the phase is gelled and grain-free, pour it into the cos and then switch on the paddle stirrer. The jacket should be set to 60-65°C so as to maintain the temperature.
  • Composition 1 below is prepared.
  • Phase Composition 1 (invention) A1 Water/Aqua 29.65 A2 Water/Aqua 10 A2 Trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate 0.31 A2 Caprylyl glycol 0.3 A2 Sodium chloride 0.11 A2 Glycerol 3 A2 Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid (Mexoryl SX from Noveal) 1 A2 Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid (Eusolex 232 from Merck) 1.5 A3 Propanediol 3 A4 Acrylates copolymer (Carbopol Aqua SF-1 from Lubrizol) 2 A5 Water/Aqua 2 A6 Triethanolamine 1.86 A7 Carrageenan (Satiagum VPCN410 from Cargill) 0.31 A7 Carrageenan (Genuvisco Carrageenan CG-131 from CP Kelco) 0.31 B1 Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789 from DSM Nutritional Products) 4.5 B1
  • Composition 1 in accordance with the invention applies easily and uniformly to both dry and wet skin.
  • compositions 2 to 4 below are prepared.
  • Phase Composition 2 (invention) 3 (invention) 4 (invention) A1 Water/Aqua 25.65 26.65 27.65 A2 Water/Aqua 10 10 10 A2 Trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate 0.31 0.31 0.31 A2 Caprylyl glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 A2 Sodium chloride 0.11 0.11 0.11 A2 Glycerol 3 3 3 A2 Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid (Mexoryl SX from Noveal) 1 1 1 1 A2 Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid (Eusolex 232 from Merck) 1.5 1.5 1.5 A3 Propanediol 3 3 3 A4 Acrylates copolymer (Carbopol Aqua SF-1 from Lubrizol) 2 2 2 A5 Water/Aqua 2 2 2 A6 Triethanolamine 1.86 1.86 1.86 A7 Carrageenan (Satiagum VPCN410 from Cargill) 0.31 0.31 0.31 A7 Carrageenan (Genu
  • compositions 2, 3 and 4 in accordance with the invention are easily applied to both dry and wet skin.
  • the spread obtained and observed under a Wood lamp is acceptable on both dry and wet skin, with a high level of sun protection.
  • composition 2 which comprises the combination of a carnauba wax with an acrylate/dimethicone copolymer.
  • compositions 5 to 7 below are prepared.
  • Phase Composition 5 (invention) 6 (comparative) 7 (comparative) A1 Water/Aqua 25.65 26.65 26.27 A2 Water/Aqua 10 10 10 A2 Trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate 0.31 0.31 0.31 A2 Caprylyl glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 A2 Sodium chloride 0.11 0.11 0.11 A2 Glycerol 3 3 3 A2 Terephthalylidenedicamphor-sulfonic acid (Mexoryl SX from Noveal) 1 1 1 1 A2 Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid (Eusolex 232 from Merck) 1.5 1.5 1.5 A3 Propanediol 3 3 3 A4 Acrylates copolymer (Carbopol Aqua SF-1 from Lubrizol) 2 2 2 A5 Water/Aqua 2 2 2 A6 Triethanolamine 1.86 1.86 1.86 A7 Carrageenan (Satiagum VPCN410 from Cargill) 0.31 0.31 - A7 Carrageenan
  • Composition 5 in accordance with the invention is easily applied to both dry and wet skin.
  • the spread obtained and observed under a Wood lamp is homogeneous.
  • the level of sun protection obtained is high.
  • Comparative composition 6 which does not contain any lipophilic polymer comprising monomer units of formulae (A) and (B) (C12-22 alkyl acrylate/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer) and comparative composition 7 which does not contain any carrageenan are more difficult to spread, both on dry and wet skin, and the spread obtained and observed under a Wood lamp is not very homogeneous, which is reflected in a less effective level of sun protection on both dry and wet skin.

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  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition, et en particulier une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique, comprenant au moins un agent filtrant les UV, au moins un polymère lipophile choisi de manière appropriée et au moins un carraghénane, et l'utilisation de ladite composition dans les domaines cosmétique et dermatologique, en particulier pour le soin et le traitement des matières kératiniques, et en particulier pour le soin, la protection et/ou le maquillage de la peau du corps ou du visage, ou pour les soins capillaires.
EP23821247.6A 2022-12-16 2023-12-07 Composition comprenant un agent filtrant les uv, un polymère lipophile sélectionné de manière appropriée et un carraghénane Pending EP4633597A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR2213601A FR3143344A1 (fr) 2022-12-16 2022-12-16 Composition comprenant un filtre UV, un polymère lipophile convenablement sélectionné, et un carraghénane
PCT/EP2023/084746 WO2024126253A1 (fr) 2022-12-16 2023-12-07 Composition comprenant un agent filtrant les uv, un polymère lipophile sélectionné de manière appropriée et un carraghénane

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EP4633597A1 true EP4633597A1 (fr) 2025-10-22

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EP (1) EP4633597A1 (fr)
CN (1) CN121099983A (fr)
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WO2024126253A1 (fr) 2024-06-20
FR3143344A1 (fr) 2024-06-21

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