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EP4126269B1 - Appareil d'assurage pour l'escalade sportive - Google Patents

Appareil d'assurage pour l'escalade sportive

Info

Publication number
EP4126269B1
EP4126269B1 EP20812442.0A EP20812442A EP4126269B1 EP 4126269 B1 EP4126269 B1 EP 4126269B1 EP 20812442 A EP20812442 A EP 20812442A EP 4126269 B1 EP4126269 B1 EP 4126269B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
rope
climber
drum
mobile element
length
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP20812442.0A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP4126269A1 (fr
Inventor
Alessandro MANEO
Filippo BOLLINI
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Prograde SRL
Original Assignee
Prograde SRL
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Prograde SRL filed Critical Prograde SRL
Publication of EP4126269A1 publication Critical patent/EP4126269A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP4126269B1 publication Critical patent/EP4126269B1/fr
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B69/00—Training appliances or apparatus for special sports
    • A63B69/0048—Training appliances or apparatus for special sports for mountaineering, e.g. climbing-walls, grip elements for climbing-walls
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B69/00—Training appliances or apparatus for special sports
    • A63B69/0064—Attachments on the trainee preventing falling
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A62—LIFE-SAVING; FIRE-FIGHTING
    • A62B—DEVICES, APPARATUS OR METHODS FOR LIFE-SAVING
    • A62B35/00—Safety belts or body harnesses; Similar equipment for limiting displacement of the human body, especially in case of sudden changes of motion
    • A62B35/0093—Fall arrest reel devices
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B71/00—Games or sports accessories not covered in groups A63B1/00 - A63B69/00
    • A63B71/0054—Features for injury prevention on an apparatus, e.g. shock absorbers
    • A63B2071/0081—Stopping the operation of the apparatus
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B21/00—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices
    • A63B21/00181—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices comprising additional means assisting the user to overcome part of the resisting force, i.e. assisted-active exercising
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B21/00—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices
    • A63B21/005—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices using electromagnetic or electric force-resisters
    • A63B21/0058—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices using electromagnetic or electric force-resisters using motors
    • A63B21/0059—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices using electromagnetic or electric force-resisters using motors using a frequency controlled AC motor
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B21/00—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices
    • A63B21/012—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices using frictional force-resisters
    • A63B21/018—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices using frictional force-resisters including a rope or other flexible element moving relative to the surface of elements
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B21/00—Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices
    • A63B21/06—User-manipulated weights
    • A63B21/068—User-manipulated weights using user's body weight
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B2220/00—Measuring of physical parameters relating to sporting activity
    • A63B2220/10—Positions
    • A63B2220/13—Relative positions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B2220/00—Measuring of physical parameters relating to sporting activity
    • A63B2220/20—Distances or displacements
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B29/00—Apparatus for mountaineering
    • A63B29/02—Mountain guy-ropes or accessories, e.g. avalanche ropes; Means for indicating the location of accidentally buried, e.g. snow-buried, persons

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a belaying apparatus for sport climbing.
  • Climbing is a widespread sport and is played not only on natural rock walls, but also on artificial walls in special gyms, either outdoors or indoors.
  • Sport climbing is a sporting discipline wherein the athlete has to climb an artificial wall on which shaped elements or grips are attached.
  • the climber is belayed through a rope which is tied at his harness at an end; the rope is belayed in one or more belay points (also called “quickdraws") along a path on the wall (also called “pitch”); the opposite end of the rope, and the excess rope, is on the ground (or in any case in a stable point, in the case of outdoor climbing).
  • the belayer immediately blocks the rope and thus the fall, sometimes being lifted off the ground and acting as a counterweight to the climber.
  • the belayer also carries out the descent of the climber at the end of the climb.
  • the role of the belayer is fundamental and requires constant attention and considerable experience.
  • the rope is secured to the belayer's harness through a mechanical belaying device that is passed through by the rope, allows the rope to be slid by the belayer, and automatically stops the movement of the rope in case of sudden stress.
  • US 7,845,467 B2 discloses a belaying device for a rope intended solely to be attached to the harness of an athlete who plays as a belayer.
  • the device comprises a cam able to rotate between a position for securing the rope by jamming effect against a stud, and a separated position allowing the rope to run freely in the gap between the cam and the stud.
  • DE10048046A1 discloses a device for belaying a climbing rope, for gyms, which plays the role of belayer on the ground, avoiding the need for a belayer person.
  • the belaying device comprises a blocking device remotely controlled by the climber.
  • There may be a brake that prevents a rope speed higher than a threshold, so that when the climber does not support himself at the wall, he is slowly lowered.
  • the climber may only control winding/unwinding of the rope; in another mode, he may obtain a length of slack rope by remaining suspended on the wall while pressing the push-button to actuate unwinding of the rope, in order to make difficult passages uphill without the need to overcome the rope traction force.
  • the climber may also remain suspended to the rope in order to rest.
  • the device has several advantages, among which the fact that it rolls up the rope, thus avoiding dangerous heaps on the ground, and the fact that, by protecting it, it reduces its wear.
  • the Applicant observes that the remote actuation does not offer an adequate safety, and rather diverts the climber's attention.
  • EP2359911A2 also discloses a belaying device for climbing which plays the role of the belayer on the ground.
  • the device comprises a return pulley for a climbing rope (not a winding/unwinding drum) coupled to a motor drive cooperating with a braking device.
  • the braking device comprises two actuating devices connected to each other, but independently actuatable. The first one is preferably an electric motor, but it can be of a mechanical type; the second one acts based on the rotation speed and is preferably of the centrifugal force type.
  • a remote control is also provided for, in order to switch between: a mode, useful for climb, wherein the brake does not act onto the rope except in the event of a fall; a mode, useful for controlled descent, wherein there is a braking effect; and a mode, useful for example in the case of a break while suspended, wherein the rope is totally blocked.
  • the Applicant observes that the remote actuation does not offer an adequate safety, and rather diverts the climber's attention. Furthermore, the braking device acts only indirectly on the return pulley and even more indirectly on the rope.
  • Document FR 2 727 026 A1 discloses a climbing belaying device, comprising: a frame, a rotating drum supported by the frame, a motor for rotating the drum, a rope or cable a first end of which is for attachment to the drum, and which winds onto the drum, and the other end of which is for attachment to a climber, stock means for a stock rope length variable between a minimum stock length and a maximum stock length, while preserving a proper tension on the rope, means for detecting the stock length, suitable to provide signals that command rotation of the motor to wind or unwind, respectively, the rope when the stock length is greater than the maximum stock length or smaller than the minimum stock length, and to stop the motor when the stock length has a proper value.
  • the stock means may comprise an arm articulated at a first end about a stationary axis having a return guide at the opposite end, the arm being pivotable against the gravitational force between a bottom end position corresponding to the maximum stock length and a top end position corresponding to the minimum stock length; in another embodiment the arm is pivotal against the action of elastic return means.
  • the means for detecting the stock length comprise three "dete Sheffield de position de bras" (arm position detectors), each of which is, as matter of fact, a detector of the passage of the arm through a respective preset position.
  • the Applicant observes that the operation of the apparatus is not particularly versatile. Furthermore, the brake is of an electromagnetic type, requiring an actuation signal, and acts on the motor, rather than directly onto the rope.
  • EP 1 874 415 A1 and US 4 997 064 A disclose further belaying devices.
  • WO2021/055748A2 which represents a document part of the state of the art under Art. 54(3) EPC, discloses an automatic descent control device that includes a line configured to be attached to a load.
  • a line system retracts slack from the line when the line is not loaded and extends the line when the line is loaded.
  • At least one braking system provides a braking force when the line is loaded so as to control extension of the line and a descent rate of the load.
  • the at least one braking system is operable in at least two configurations, a first configuration that the at least one braking system lowers the load at a first descent rate, and a second configuration that the at least one braking system lowers or locks the load at a second descent rate.
  • the load being a constant and the first descent rate is greater than the second descent rate.
  • the general technical problem underlying the invention is to provide a belaying apparatus for sport climbing which is particularly versatile and reliable and does not require actuation by the climber.
  • the subject-matter disclosed herein relates to a belaying apparatus for sport climbing, comprising a winding/unwinding drum for a climbing rope; motor means intended for bidirectional rotation thereof (of the drum); a braking device; a detector device; and a controller intended to receive the output of the detector device and control the motor means based at least thereon, characterized in that the braking device and the detector device are combined in a single detector and braking assembly through a shared element that defines both a braking surface and an element responsive to movements of the rope.
  • said shared element is a mobile element configured to be partly surrounded by a bend of rope, wherein the mobile element is subject to a traction stress by the bend of rope and to a return stress, wherein when the traction stress prevails over the return stress, the mobile element moves towards an abutment, at end of stroke determining with the abutment a gap for clamping the rope.
  • said detector device comprises a transducer that detects the position of said mobile element.
  • the abutment has a braking surface tilted downwards, preferably lying in a plane forming an angle comprised between 50° and 70° with a vertical direction.
  • the return stress comprises a stress generated by elastic return means and/or at least one component of the gravitational force and/or at least one component of a reaction force to a friction force generated by clamping the rope within said gap.
  • the detector and braking assembly comprises elastic return means configured to perform one or more, and preferably all, of the following functions:
  • the mobile element and/or the abutment are oblong so as not to define a single mandatory path for the rope, wherein preferably the length of mobile element and/or of abutment substantially corresponds to the length of the drum.
  • the gap has a minimum size so sized, with respect to the diameter of the rope for which the apparatus is intended, as not to completely block the sliding of the rope.
  • the braking device is configured so that the tension generated in the rope during a fall of a climber secured to an end of the rope acts in a larger percentage on braking device and in a smaller, but preferably non-null, percentage on drum.
  • the drum preferably, along the path of the rope, there follow one another: the drum, any optional rope guide-tensioner assembly, the braking device, the detector device.
  • the drum is hollow and the motor means and/or the controller are internal to the drum.
  • the apparatus further comprises a rope guide-tensioner assembly configured to tension a length of rope adjacent to a length of rope wound onto the drum, wherein preferably the rope guide-tensioner assembly comprises a driven wheel driven by the controller at a different speed from that of the motor means, more preferably wherein the driven wheel is driven at a comparatively low speed when the motor means make the drum rotate in the winding direction, and at a comparatively high speed when the motor means make the drum rotate in the unwinding direction
  • the rope guide-tensioner assembly comprises a tensioner device mobile with a reciprocating motion along a direction parallel to an axis of the drum, and controlled in a coordinated manner with the drum, wherein preferably tensioner device is mobile with a reciprocating motion along a self-reversing screw, said self-reversing screw being connected with the drum through a belt transmission.
  • the subject-matter disclosed herein relates to a process for belaying a climber, comprising the not necessarily sequential steps of:
  • detecting movements of the rope it is meant to detect or monitor, continually over time or at a high enough frequency with respect to the voluntary and involuntary movements of the climber, whether there is a movement of the rope, in particular a longitudinal displacement; it is also meant to detect the extent thereof in an analogic manner or in any case with a sufficiently high resolution with respect to the voluntary and involuntary movements of the climber.
  • steps are performed through the not necessarily sequential steps of:
  • the subject-matter disclosed herein relates to a belaying apparatus for sport climbing, comprising a winding/unwinding drum for a climbing rope; motor means intended for bidirectional rotation thereof; a detector device; and a controller intended to receive the output of the detector device and control the motor means based at least thereon, characterized in that the detector device comprises an intended path for a length of rope, the path having a variable length correlated with longitudinal displacements of the rope, and emits a control variable representative of the path length, and wherein the controller is configured to control the motor means, in rotation direction and speed, based at least on the value of the control variable.
  • to control in rotation direction and speed it is meant to indicate that the controller not only establishes whether the motor means are switched off or on, rather also establishes the extent of the motor means drive signal, and thus the absolute value of the rotation speed, based at least on the value of the control variable.
  • the controller is configured to control the motor means, in rotation direction and speed, further based on at least one value, preceding in time, of the control variable and/or on the elapsed time.
  • the controller is configured to control the motor means according to a law other than a linear function and a piecewise linear function of the control variable.
  • the controller may follow a linear function or a piecewise linear function in one or more ranges of the control variable and/or in one or more operating modes.
  • the controller is configured to carry out at least one, and more preferably at least two, operating modes selected from the group consisting of: a mode handling the progression of a climber, a mode handling the fall and/or suspension to rope of a climber, a mode handling a quick draw of rope by a climber, and preferably is configured to further carry out at least one auxiliary mode.
  • the controller is configured to select the operating mode to be carried out based on the control variable and possibly on a value thereof preceding in time and/or on elapsed time.
  • the controller in an operating mode handling the fall of a climber, is configured to control the motor means according to a predefined behavior over time, comprising an initial, comparatively high unwinding speed and, immediately thereafter, a deceleration down to a comparatively low winding speed.
  • the controller is configured to limit, at least in an operating mode handling the progression of a climber, acceleration of the motor means to an acceleration comprised in the range between 3 m/s 2 and 7 m/s 2 , more preferably in the range between 4 m/s 2 and 6 m/s 2 , even more preferably equal to 4,8 m/s 2 .
  • the detector device comprises a mobile element, preferably mobile in a substantially vertical direction, configured to be partly surrounded by a bend of the rope, wherein the mobile element is subject to a traction stress by the bend of rope and to a return stress, and wherein said detector device comprises a transducer that detects the position of said mobile element.
  • the apparatus further comprises elastic return means configured to:
  • the mobile element is oblong so as not to define a single mandatory path for the rope, wherein preferably the length of mobile element substantially corresponds to the length of drum.
  • the subject-matter disclosed herein relates to a process for belaying a climber, comprising the not necessarily sequential steps of:
  • steps are performed through the not necessarily sequential steps of:
  • the subject-matter disclosed herein relates to a belaying apparatus for sport climbing, comprising a winding/unwinding drum for a rope; optional motor means intended for bidirectional rotation thereof; a braking device; an optional detector device; and an optional controller intended to receive the output of the detector device and control the motor means based at least thereon; wherein the braking device has a pair of oblong braking surfaces so as not to define a single mandatory path for passage of the rope.
  • the length of the braking surfaces substantially corresponds to the length of the drum.
  • the subject-matter disclosed herein relates to a belaying apparatus for sport climbing, comprising a winding/unwinding drum for a rope; motor means intended for bidirectional rotation thereof; a braking device; a detector device; and a controller intended to receive the output of the detector device and control the motor means based at least thereon; wherein the braking device is of a mechanical type and directly acts onto the rope through friction, having two braking surfaces subject to a relative motion towards and away from each other, wherein during the approaching motion a gap is formed wherein the rope is tightened with increasing force.
  • the gap has a minimum size so sized, with respect to the rope diameter, as not to completely block the sliding of the rope.
  • the braking device is configured so that the tension that is generated in the rope during a fall of a climber secured to an end of the rope acts in a larger percentage on braking device and in a smaller, but preferably non-null, percentage on the drum.
  • the subject-matter disclosed herein relates to a belaying apparatus for sport climbing, comprising a winding/unwinding drum for a rope; optional motor means intended for bidirectional rotation thereof; a braking device; an optional detector device; and an optional controller intended to receive the output of the detector device and control the motor means based at least thereon; wherein the braking device has a stationary braking surface and a braking surface mobile towards and away from the stationary braking surface, wherein the stationary braking surface is tilted downwards, preferably lying in a plane forming an angle comprised between 50° and 70° with a vertical direction.
  • the subject-matter disclosed herein relates to a belaying apparatus for sport climbing comprising, in this order along the path of a climbing rope: an winding/unwinding drum of a rope, provided with motor means intended for bidirectional rotation thereof; an optional rope guide-tensioner assembly; a braking device; a detector device for providing a signal to a controller provided for controlling the motor means.
  • the subject-matter disclosed herein relates to a belaying apparatus for sport climbing comprising: a winding/unwinding drum of a rope, provided with motor means intended for bidirectional rotation thereof; an optional rope guide-tensioner assembly; an optional braking device; a detector device; and a controller intended for receiving the output of the detector device and for controlling the motor means based at least thereon, wherein the winding/unwinding drum is hollow and the motor and/or the controller are internal to the winding/unwinding drum.
  • FIG. 1 is a block diagram of a belaying apparatus 1, in particular for sport climbing, according to an aspect of the subject-matter disclosed herein.
  • the subject-matter disclosed herein finds an application in fields other than sport climbing.
  • Belaying apparatus 1 comprises a winding/unwinding drum 2 for a rope C; a motor 3 intended for bidirectional rotation thereof; a rope guide-tensioner assembly 4; a braking device 5; a detector device 6; and a controller 7.
  • Controller 7 is intended i.a. to receive the output of the detector device 6 and to control the motor means 3 based at least thereon.
  • An aspect of the subject-matter disclosed herein, or invention relates to the entire belaying apparatus.
  • Other aspects of the subject-matter disclosed herein relate to the individual components, devices and assemblies of the apparatus, as well as some combinations thereof.
  • the various aspects are discussed in detail, and secondary, optional and/or preferred features thereof are indicated with reference to the apparatus, which represents the most complex aspect among the various aspects.
  • the rope guide-tensioner assembly 4 is optional; the drum 2 may be missing or replaced by a rope deflecting device.
  • the motor 3 and/or the controller 7 may be missing when the considered aspect does not require motorization of the drum or deflecting device, or when the motorization does not require an intelligent control.
  • the rope is a dynamic rope, namely it is elastic enough to stretch when subjected to a load, so as to ensure a high resistance to braking and allow a gradual deceleration instead of giving a "jerk" on the athlete and/or on the hooks or carabiners attached to the wall in case of a fall.
  • controller 7 a logical unit is meant, which may be embodied by a single electronic device or by more electronic devices. Controller 7 may in particular comprise a microprocessor.
  • Motor is used in a broad meaning to indicate motor means comprising one or more electric motors and possibly a transmission. Winding/unwinding drum 2 and motor 3 are preferably combined and in any case are sometimes referred to as a whole as motor - drum assembly 8.
  • Braking device 5 and detector device 6 are preferably combined and in any case are sometimes referred to as a whole as detector and braking assembly 9.
  • braking device 5 and detector device 6 are combined in a single detector and braking assembly 9 through a shared element that defines both a braking surface and an element responsive to movements of the rope C.
  • An end of rope C is suitably attached to drum 2 and the other end of rope C is suitably attached, in use, to a climber A, for example to his harness.
  • the apparatus 1 may be marketed without the rope C or provided with the rope C, that in any case may be replaced as needed, for example when worn out, or when desired.
  • the motor - drum assembly 8 is provided for in order to provide the climber A with a length of rope C adequate to the need at each time, as well as to keep the non-used length of rope C tidy wound, both during use and preferably also at rest.
  • the rope guide-tensioner assembly 4 is provided for, optionally, in order to maintain the desired tension in the length of rope C wound onto the drum 2 and/or in order to accompany it along the length of the drum 2 during winding and unwinding.
  • Braking device 5 is provided for selectively braking (namely, in order to have a non-braking condition and at least one braking condition) the rope C.
  • Braking device 5 is preferably of a mechanical type and directly acts onto the rope C through friction, having two braking surfaces subject to a relative motion towards and away from each other, wherein during the approaching motion a gap is formed wherein the rope is tightened with increasing force.
  • the gap has a minimum size so sized, with respect to the diameter of rope C, as not to completely block the sliding of rope C.
  • the minimum size of the gap may be comprised between 6 and 8 mm, preferably comprised between 6,2 and 7,5 mm, even more preferably it may be 6,7 mm.
  • Braking device 5 is configured so that the tension that is generated in rope C during a fall of climber A acts in a larger percentage on the braking device 5 and in a smaller, but preferably non-null, percentage on the drum 2.
  • Braking device 5 has, according to a preferred embodiment of the subject-matter disclosed herein, a self-release feature.
  • Braking device 5 has a pair of oblong braking surfaces, extending over a length greater than the diameter of rope C, so as not to define a single mandatory path for the passage of rope C.
  • This allows rope C to be braked whatever its point of departure from drum 2 and/or whatever the position of climber A with respect to apparatus 1. Furthermore, this allows to increase the dissipated friction, avoiding an overheat of braking device 5.
  • the length of the braking surfaces substantially corresponds to the length of drum 2.
  • Detector device 6 is provided for in order to detect the actions of the climber A as transmitted by rope C.
  • Detector device 6 may detect movements of rope C within an intended path for a length of rope C.
  • the length of the path may be allowed to vary in a manner correlated with longitudinal displacements of rope C.
  • Detector device emits a control variable representative of the path length.
  • detector device 6 comprises a mobile element configured to be -and which in use is- surrounded in part by a bend of rope C, wherein the mobile element is subject to a traction stress by the rope bend and to a return stress, which determine the possible displacement of the mobile element.
  • the displacement of a length of rope C within the apparatus 1, consequence of voluntary or involuntary climber movements, is transduced, in a constructively very simple manner, with the advantage that the weight that the climber A perceives when he voluntary draws the rope C is only that of rope C and of the mobile element that it is displacing.
  • the mobile element is mobile in a straight direction, more preferably in a substantially vertical direction, so that the return stress comprises at least one component of the gravitational force.
  • Detector device 6 is oblong so as not to define a single mandatory path for the passage of rope C. This allows the movements of rope C to be detected whatever its point of departure from drum 2 and/or whatever the position of climber A with respect to apparatus 1.
  • the length of the mobile element substantially corresponds to the length of drum 2.
  • said mobile element of the detector device 6 embodies a braking surface of the braking device 5.
  • drum 2 drum 2
  • rope guide-tensioner assembly 4 if present
  • braking device 5 detector device 6.
  • detector device 6 is directly affected by the actions of the climber A.
  • Controller 7 is provided for in order to receive the output of detector device 6, or control variable, and control motor 3 based thereon.
  • the control or drive of the motor advantageously occurs in rotation direction and speed.
  • controller 7 provides to control the release of rope C to the climber A by the drum 2 and to take the excess length of rope C.
  • Controller 7 advantageously maintains a length of rope C at disposal for the climber A (rope length C2), and preferably an adequate tension therein, so as to prevent an excessive free fall of climber A, and as a consequence prevents the climber A to reach an excessive speed when free falling.
  • Controller 7 optionally also controls the rope guide-tensioner assembly 4 and/or other components of apparatus 1.
  • FIGs. 2-9 show an exemplary embodiment of a belaying apparatus 1 for sport climbing according to the invention.
  • a cover 20 of the apparatus is shown as if it were transparent in order to make the components inside it visible.
  • Frame 21 is preferably metallic and/or of another material sufficiently stiff and strong, and is preferably provided with means for anchoring to the climbing wall or to the floor, the ground or other support surface, for example holes for bolts, but alternatively it could merely rest on the ground, if heavy enough to withstand the expected stresses.
  • the frame 21 comprises two shoulder walls 22, 23 facing each other, one or more partitions 24 extending between the two shoulder walls 22, 23 and, preferably but not necessarily, a bottom wall 25 and/or a rear wall 26, which may also replace the partition(s) 24.
  • At least the shoulder walls 22, 23 and the partition(s) 24 are stiff enough to be load-bearing, and to withstand the stresses they are subjected to, and are constrained so as to have a stable mutual relationship.
  • cover 20 is preferably box-shaped, missing the rear wall in case there is already the rear wall 26 of frame 21, so that it may be easily arranged onto the frame 21 from the front, to totally cover the components supported thereby.
  • Cover 20 may, alternatively or additionally thereto, lack the rear wall.
  • Cover 20 may be made in any suitable material, glass and a transparent or semitransparent material included, so as to allow the internal components of the belaying apparatus 1 to be seen, in order i.a. to check their integrity and proper operation.
  • Cover 20 is provided with a slot 27 for passage of the rope C, possibly stiffened by a frame 28, but for the rest is substantially closed, apart from what has been stated above, so as to protect the internal components of the apparatus 1 against dirt and to protect people against injuries caused by moving members.
  • Slot 27 is preferably made in a front projection 29 of cover 20.
  • Slot 27 extends preferably vertically and along a sufficient length to allow the exit of rope C irrespectively of its position within the apparatus 1 and of the position of the climber A.
  • a vertical slot tends to interfere less with the rope C than a horizontal configuration of the slot, that is however possible.
  • Slot 27 might also partly or even completely extend in a top wall of the cover 20.
  • Cover 20 preferably bears a user interface 30, preferably comprising a display 31 and more preferably a touch screen.
  • the screen 31 is arranged on the top wall of cover 20, so as to be visible by the climber A when he is on the wall.
  • the user interface 30 preferably further comprises a push-button 32 for switching on/off power supply to a transformer 33 ( FIG. 2 ) by the mains; the power supply cable is not shown.
  • Transformer 33 preferably supplies all the components of the apparatus 1, although some may be directly power supplied by the mains and others may be battery-powered.
  • the three above-mentioned assemblies 4, 8, 9 are supported by the frame 21, each one extending crosswise between the shoulder walls 22, 23 thereof. In the embodiment shown, they are arranged stacked with the 8 motor - winding/unwinding drum assembly 8 topmost, the rope C guide-tensioner assembly 4 centrally, and the detector and braking assembly 9 lowermost.
  • the motor - drum assembly 8 comprises the drum 2 pivotal about a horizontal geometric axis X defined by a stationary axle 40 extending between the two shoulder walls 22, 23 of frame 21.
  • an end of rope C is suitably attached to the drum 2.
  • the drum 2 is preferably sized so that the rope C may be wound onto the drum 2 essentially up to its entire length in the idle condition of apparatus 1.
  • Motor - drum assembly 8 further comprises motor means 3, briefly stated motor 3, in order to drive the drum 2 into rotation, in both rotation directions about axis X.
  • drum 2 has a cylinder 41 - which is shown as partially cutaway in order to make the components inside it visible - provided with two disc-shaped end flanges 42, 43 one-piece therewith, which have a greater diameter than the outer diameter of cylinder 41, and therefore advantageously provide for laterally restraining the portion of rope C wound onto the cylinder 41, besides being able to perform other functions that will become clear below.
  • End flanges 42, 43 may however also be missing.
  • driven flange 43 is supported by a sleeve 44 coaxial with axle 40 and extending in a recess 45 in shoulder wall 23 ( FIG. 3 ), which might be replaced by a through hole.
  • Sleeve 44 has a fairlead guide 46 for the passage of cables (not shown).
  • flange 43 bears four magnets 48, and an electromagnetic sensor 49 is arranged on shoulder wall 23 in such a position as to detect the passage of the magnets 48 so as to embody an electromagnetic encoder capable of measuring one or more among: the angular position, the rotation direction, the angular speed and/or the angular acceleration of drum 2. There might also be only one, two or three magnets.
  • Drum 2 is preferably set into rotation from the inside, namely the motor 3 is internal to the drum 2. This advantageously allows the volumes to be optimized, and the overall dimensions of the belaying apparatus 1 as a whole to be reduced.
  • cylinder 41 is hollow.
  • toothed wheel 60 (shown detached from flange 42 for illustrative purposes) which forms the central pinion or sun of a gear similar to a planetary gear, though lacking a ring gear.
  • toothed wheel 60 is attached to the driving flange 42 of drum 2 through a coupling quill 61 with associated anti-rotation key 62.
  • Toothed wheels 63 forming the planets of the generally planetary gear, for example three in number as shown, are pivotally supported at a disc-shaped member 64, forming the carrier or planet holding member or planet holder of the generally planetary gear, attached to axle 40.
  • disc-shaped member 64 is attached to axle 40 in such a position as to be in the proximity of the driving flange 42 of drum 2, in a more proximal position than flange 42, the generally planetary gear being interposed between the disc-shaped member 64 and the flange 42.
  • the toothed wheels 63 or planets are set into rotation by respective DC electric motors 65 (three in number in the embodiment shown) actuated synchronously and in phase, supported by the disc-shaped member 64 or carrier on its proximal side.
  • the electric motors 65 are attached cantilevered from the proximal face of the disc-shaped member 64, and the toothed wheels 63 protrude from the distal side of the disc-shaped member 64, there being respective holes (not visible) of the disc-shaped member 64 for passage of the shafts of the electric motors 65.
  • Disc-shaped member 64 is advantageously of smaller size than the inner cylindrical surface of cylinder 41 of drum 2, so that it can be inserted inside the drum 2.
  • a second essentially disc-shaped member 70 is attached to axle 40 in such a position as to be in the proximity of the driven flange 43 of drum 2, in a more proximal position than flange 43.
  • a plate 71 extends between the two disc-shaped members 64, 70 and is supported thereby.
  • Plate 71 preferably supports a solenoid 72 of an emergency blocking device 73; according to the excitation or non-excitation state, the solenoid 72 controls the position of a pin 74 between a position withdrawn within solenoid 72 and an extracted position, wherein the pin 74 blocks the rotation of the driving flange 42 of drum 2, for example by inserting into one of a plurality of spaces 75 between protrusions 76 evenly spaced along a circumference on the proximal face of driving flange 42.
  • Protrusions 76 are advantageously so configured as to provide a respective abutment surface for pin 74 in the unwinding direction of drum 2.
  • the rotation of the drum 2 in the winding direction causes the unlocking of the emergency blocking device 73.
  • a rotation intended for unlocking the emergency blocking device 73 is subordinated to a human input through the user interface 30.
  • Pin 74 might block the rotation of the driving flange 42 in other manners, for example by friction or inserting in holes thereof.
  • the disc-shaped member 64 forming the carrier preferably supports a small guide block 77 for pin 74 of the emergency blocking device 73.
  • Emergency blocking device 73 might be of another kind or also be missing.
  • the plate 71 further supports a casing 78 of electronic components, comprising in particular the controller 7 or at least some of the electronic components forming the same.
  • the casing 78 is preferably essentially cylindrical and formed by two half-shells 79, 80 that wrap axle 40.
  • the half-shells 79, 80 support a plate 81 therebetween, which in turn supports electronic boards and/or discrete electronic components on both faces thereof, or they directly support an electronic board.
  • casing 78 when closed, is housed within the cylinder 41 of drum 2, in its region adjacent to the driven flange 43, while the electric motors 65 and the solenoid 72 are housed within the cylinder 41, in its region adjacent to the driving flange 42: in such a way, all the internal space of drum 2 is exploited.
  • Casing 78 is preferably open at both longitudinal ends.
  • the second disc-shaped member 70 supports one or more small fans 82 that advantageously provide to cool the electronics and the motors 65.
  • casing 78 has a protective function and might be missing.
  • Plate 71 might be replaced by other support means, or be missing, the various components described above being directly attached to the disc-shaped members 64, 70 or to the axle 40 itself.
  • the electronic components, or some of them, as well as the emergency blocking device 73, when present, might be located elsewhere in the apparatus 1, in particular externally of the drum 2.
  • drum 2 may be set into rotation by a single electric motor internal to cylinder 41, or by an external electric motor, directly or through a suitable kinematic system.
  • a similar consideration applies to a drum driven from the inside and housing electronic components inside it, and, more in general, for a drum housing electronic components inside it.
  • the rope guide-tensioner assembly 4 preferably present, comprises a tensioner device 90 configured to tension a rope length C3 adjacent that wound onto the drum 2.
  • Tensioner device 90 comprises, in the embodiment shown, an idle roller 91 and a motor-driven roller 92, set into rotation by an electric DC motor 93.
  • Rollers 91, 92 are mounted in a box-shaped container 94, preferably formed of two parts: a housing part 95, and a plate 96 for closing the same and for supporting motor 93 and the rotation axle of idle roller 91.
  • Rollers 91, 92 have parallel rotation axes, and define a gap 97 therebetween, wherein rope C slides with friction.
  • Rope C passes through container 94 through a hole 98 and a second hole not visible in FIG. 6 .
  • Motor 93 is advantageously external to container 94 so as to better dissipate the generated heat, but it might be internal to container 94.
  • motor 93 is driven, by controller 7, in such a manner as to make roller 92 rotate at a comparatively low speed during winding of rope C onto drum 2, so as to generate a certain resistance against traction of branch C3 towards the drum 2, and to determine a tight winding; at a comparatively high speed during unwinding of rope C from drum 2, so as to assist unwinding.
  • the two speeds are not only low and high when compared to each other, but also with respect to the speed of the drum 2, and may also be variable.
  • each idle roller may be mounted onto a guide, and be mobile in a transverse direction to the rotation axis itself, against the action of a spring, so as to compensate for diameter changes of rope C caused e.g. by wearing thereof and/or to tension, besides possibly by the nominal diameter of rope C, that may thus be according to two or more standards.
  • the rollers may have equal or different diameters; each roller may have a circumferential groove or not; the circumferential groove or the external surface of each roller may be smooth or knurled; and/or each roller may be made of a suitable material, such as for example of metal, rubber, silicon etc. All the above options are selectable for each roller independently of the other ones. At the expense of performance, the motor 93 of tensioner device 90 might however be missing, especially providing for more than two rollers.
  • the tensioner device 90 is mobile with a reciprocating motion along a direction parallel to the geometric axis X of the drum 2, for a stroke essentially as long as the cylinder 41 of drum 2.
  • the tensioner device 90 may be brought in any instant in the proximity of the point of departure of the length of rope C3 from the drum 2, and thus act in a more efficient manner, given that the free length of rope C3 between drum 2 and tensioner device 90 is minimized, and the tilt angle between such a free length of rope C3 and the tensioner device 90 is minimized.
  • the movements of the tensioner device 90 and of the drum 2 are coordinated.
  • the tensioner device 90 is supported by a slide 100 of rope guide-tensioner assembly 4, slide 100 being slidable along two parallel guide axles 101, passing through a respective hole 102 of slide 100, preferably with the interposition of a respective low friction bushing 103.
  • the two guide axles 101 extend between the two shoulder walls 22, 23 of frame 21, to which they are suitably attached at their ends.
  • the same motor 3 of the motor - drum assembly 8 also controls the reciprocating motion of the slide 100, and thus also the reciprocating motion of the tensioner device 90 of rope guide-tensioner assembly 4.
  • a group comprising a motor-driven drum and a rope guide-tensioner assembly comprising a driven pulley driven at a different speed from that of the motor-driven drum, and in particular having one or more of the above mentioned features, represents an aspect of the subject-matter disclosed herein, irrespectively of the fact that it is used in combination with the other components of the apparatus 1 or not.
  • a pulley 104 is provided for, for a belt transmission of the rotary motion of the drum 2 to the rope guide-tensioner assembly 4.
  • Pulley 104 rotates as if it were one piece with the toothed wheel 60 or sun, for example by being mounted on the same quill 61 and coupled with the same anti-rotation key 62, and is therefore set into rotation by the electric motors 65.
  • Pulley 104 through a transmission belt 105, sets a second pulley 106 into rotation, forming a belt transmission 107 ( FIG. 2 ).
  • Second pulley 106 rotates as if it were one piece with a self-reversing screw 108 of rope guide-tensioner assembly 4, for example through an anti-rotation key 109.
  • a right-handed threading 110 and a left-handed threading 111 linked up at their ends are formed on the self-reversing screw 108.
  • a rudder 112 transforms the rotary motion of the self-reversing screw 108 into a translational motion of slide 100.
  • rudder 112 is free to rotate, about an axis orthogonal to the self-reversing screw 108, inside a seat 113 of slide 100, wherein it is held for example by a cover 115.
  • the self-reversing screw 108 is pivotally supported in respective holes 120, 121 ( FIG. 3 ) in shoulder walls 22, 23 of frame 21, preferably with the interposition of ferrules 122, 123.
  • pulleys 104, 106 and belt 105 are toothed for a more accurate motion transmission.
  • the combined movement of the rope guide-tensioner assembly 4 and of the drum 2 allows a tidy winding of rope C, preferably according to two concentric layers along the entire cylindrical surface of the drum 2, and its tidy unwinding.
  • the tension of rope C is kept within a preset range of values during such a combined movement, through control of the electric motor 93 of tensioner device 90.
  • preset indicates a value established at a manufacture or configuration phase, and used in normal use conditions, but not necessarily a fixed and constant value.
  • the guiding configuration with twin guide axles 101 effectively restricts the motion of the slide 100 of tensioner device 90 to be a pure translational motion, advantageously preventing the slide 100 form tilting in the plane containing the two guide axles 101 and/or from rotating about a geometric axis lying in that plane or parallel thereto, such as the self-reversing screw 108.
  • a different guide configuration may be used, for example a shoe guide.
  • rope guide-tensioner assembly 4 further comprises an end of stroke detector, preferably arranged on the opposite side with respect to the belt transmission system 107 and/or a pair of end of stroke detectors on both sides.
  • the end of stroke detector is of the electromagnetic type, comprising an electromagnetic sensor 124 on board of slide 100 and a ferromagnetic material member 125 ( FIG. 3 ) attached to shoulder wall 23.
  • any other motion transmission may replace the belt transmission 107, or it is possible to provide for a dedicated motor for the reciprocating linear motion of rope guide-tensioner assembly 4, the controller 7 driving such a motor in a coordinated manner with the motor means of motor - drum assembly 8.
  • slide 100 bearing the tensioner device 90 might be displaced by a worm gear transmission, the worm being driven into rotation by its own motor, the belt transmission 107, the self-reversing screw 108 and the rudder 112 interacting therewith being missing.
  • the tensioner device 90 may be simultaneously supported and moved by a properly controlled piston, the guide axles 101, the slide 100 and the belt transmission 107 being missing.
  • a group comprising a motor-driven drum and a rope guide-tensioner assembly comprising a tensioner device driven in a coordinated manner with the motor-driven drum, and in particular having one or more of the above mentioned features, represents an aspect of the subject-matter disclosed herein, irrespectively of the fact that it is used in combination with the other components of the apparatus 1 or not.
  • the detector and braking assembly 9 combines the braking device 5 and the detector device 6. This is preferably obtained through a shared element that defines both a braking surface and an element responsive to movements of the rope C.
  • the detector and braking assembly 9 comprises, as mentioned, a mobile element 130 which is configured to be partly surrounded by a bend of rope C.
  • the mobile element 130 is subject to a traction stress by the bend of rope C and to a return stress, that determine the possible displacement of mobile element 130, when one prevails over the other one.
  • the two branches of rope C on either side of the bend form an angle less than a perigon, preferably comprised between 90° and 270°, even more preferably comprised between 150° and 210°.
  • FIGs. 7-9 a traction force F A on the side of the climber A and a traction force F M on the side of the drum, caused by the motor 3, are indicated, which sum is the above-mentioned traction stress, as well as a return force F R .
  • the mobile element 130 is mobile in a straight direction, more preferably in a substantially vertical direction, so that the return stress F R comprises at least one component of the gravitational force.
  • the return stress F R comprises, alternatively or preferably additionally thereto, a stress generated by elastic return means such as for example one or more springs described below.
  • the return force F R overall acting onto the mobile element 130 in a direction generally opposed to the acting forces F A , F M may have a further component described further below.
  • the rope C coming from the motor - drum assembly 8 in particular coming from above, is deflected at the mobile element 130, in particular turns under it, and returns toward the exit slot 27 of apparatus 1, in particular upwards, to reach the climber A.
  • the rope branch coming from the drum 2 is indicated with C1 and the rope branch directed to the climber A is indicated with C2.
  • the mobile element 130 contributes to achieve both the transducer function of the needs of the climber A to have more or less rope C, for the control of the apparatus 1, and the function of braking the rope C itself, forming part both of the braking device 5 and of detector device 6.
  • the detector device 6 considering for the sake of simplicity the condition wherein the cylinder 41 of drum 2 is stationary, when the rope branch C2 is drawn by the climber A for a length L (according to the oriented direction of force F A ) or released, respectively, the displacement of the element 130 is caused, in particular vertically upwards or downwards, respectively, for a stroke of length L/2 (neglecting any stretch of rope C). More in general, the position of the mobile element 130 is representative of the length of the path that the rope C makes within the detector device 6, or in general within the detector and braking assembly 9.
  • Said intended path for the rope C has, in turn, a variable length, which is correlated with movements of the rope C, in particular longitudinal displacements of the rope C, which are in turn caused by the voluntary or involuntary movements of the climber A.
  • the maximum length of the intended path for the rope C is about twice the stroke of mobile element 130, and the minimum length of the intended path for the rope C is comparable with the diameter of mobile element 130.
  • a transducer 131 detects the position of mobile element 130 and inputs it, as control variable representative of the length of said path, to controller 7, which, based at least on the value of the control variable, suitably drives the motor of motor - drum assembly 8 and the other motors provided for, attending to winding or respectively unwinding rope C onto/from drum 2 as required, in the manner better explained hereinbelow.
  • Transducer 131 is preferably configured to detect a position in a continuum of positions, under this it being meant that it is possible to resolve between two positions sufficiently close with respect to the extent of the voluntary or involuntary movements of the climber A.
  • Transducer 131 may be a linear potentiometer, an optical encoder, a linear encoder, a wire encoder, a variable resistance potentiometer or other suitable position transducer.
  • the mobile element 130 when the mobile element 130 approaches the end of stroke position corresponding to maximum traction by the bend of rope C, in particular to maximum traction force F A by the end of rope branch C2 (upper end of stroke in the case of the embodiment shown), as it occurs in the case of detachment of the climber A from the climbing wall to rest or following a fall, it defines, with an abutment 132, a gap 133 for clamping rope C, which size decreases progressively.
  • a surface portion of the mobile element 130 defines a mobile braking surface.
  • the abutment 132 defines a preferably stationary braking surface.
  • Rope C that extends in the gap 133 and preferably forms a tortuous path, is subject to progressively increasing friction, and is clamped until it is braked.
  • the gap 133 has preferably a non-null minimum size, so sized, with respect to the diameter of rope C, as not to completely block the sliding of rope C. Exemplary values have been provided above.
  • Braking device 5 is thus of the mechanical type, and directly acts onto the rope C through friction, having two braking surfaces, those of the mobile element 130 and of the abutment 132, subject to a relative motion towards and away from each other, wherein during the approaching motion a gap 133 is formed wherein the rope is tightened with increasing force.
  • the mobile element 130 is in the form of a tube having a horizontal axis, supported at its ends by two slides 134, 135 mobile in respective guides 136, 137.
  • the tubular mobile element 130 may be stationary with respect to the slides 134, 135 as shown, or it may pivot in the slides 134, 135 through, for example, bushings or ball bearings.
  • transducer 131 One end of transducer 131 is attached to slide 134, while the other end of transducer 131 is suitably attached to frame 21 (cf. FIG. 2 ).
  • slide 134 is slidable along two parallel guide axles 138, 139, passing through two holes 140 of slide 134 preferably with the interposition of a respective low friction bushing 141.
  • the two guide axles 138, 139 are attached to a bottom plate 142 that also acts as an end of stroke for slide 134, and to a top plate 143.
  • Guide 136 is mounted in frame 21 so that the guide axles 138, 139 are parallel and adjacent to shoulder wall 23.
  • the bottom plate 142 is suitably attached to frame 21, for example to its shoulder wall 23; the top plate 143 is suitably attached to shoulder wall 23.
  • a helical spring 144 is inserted onto the guide axle 139 between the slide 134 and the top plate 143.
  • the spring 144 is preferably accommodated, in its condition of desired maximum compression, in a bored block 145.
  • Block 145 acts as a top end of stroke for slide 134, but it could also be missing and be replaced by a different configuration of the top plate 143 and/or of the slide 134, respectively.
  • Helical spring 144 is configured and sized so as to provide, together with the weight of mobile element 130 or its component extending in the direction of the trajectory of the mobile element 130, in the case of non-vertical motion, half of said return force F R in the case wherein, as shown, there is a corresponding spring in guide 137.
  • the top plate 143 of guide 136 also acts as a support for one end of the abutment 132.
  • the abutment 132 may be stationary with respect to the top plate 143 as shown, or it might be pivotally supported for example through bushings or ball bearings. In this case also, abutment 132 is in any case fixed in position with respect to the stroke of the mobile element 130, and it is in this sense that it is sometimes referred to as a fixed abutment.
  • Slide 134 preferably has a recess 147 adapted to partly accommodate abutment 132 and define said desired minimum and non-null size of the gap 133 in the condition wherein the mobile element 130 is in the top end of stroke condition.
  • Abutment 132 has preferably an essentially triangular section, so that when the rope C pulls the mobile element 130 upwards, it "wedges" between a vertical plane defined by the recess 147 and the mobile element 130.
  • the braking surface of abutment 132 is inclined downwards, lying in a plane forming an angle comprised between 50° and 70° with the vertical direction.
  • a detector device and/or a braking device comprising a vertically moving element configured to be surrounded in part by a bend of a rope, which vertical displacement is determined by a traction stress by the bend of rope against a return stress, in particular having one or more of the above mentioned features, represent aspects of the subject-matter disclosed herein, irrespectively of the fact that they are used in combination with the other components of the apparatus 1 or not.
  • the guiding configuration with twin axels 140 effectively restricts the motion of the slide 134 to be a pure translational motion.
  • a different guide configuration may be used, for example a shoe guide.
  • the guide 137 of slide 135 is analogous to the guide 136 of slide 134, apart from the fact that it lacks the transducer 131; the related description is omitted for the sake of brevity.
  • the respective spring is indicated as spring 148 for convenience of description.
  • the mobile element 130 may have a triangular section or an oblique face opposing the oblique face of abutment 132; however the tubular configuration of mobile element 130 wears the rope C less and, in combination with the triangular section of abutment 132, the braking effect is optimal.
  • the configuration shown, wherein the mobile element 130 and the abutment 132 are oblong and preferably have a length substantially corresponding to the stroke of the slide 100 of the rope guide-tensioner assembly 4, is particularly advantageous in that the operation of the apparatus 1 is independent from the tilt taken up by the branches C1, C2 of rope C due to the position of departure along the drum 2 and/or the position of the climber A transverse to the climbing wall.
  • this configuration is not essential and the mobile element 130 and the abutment 132 may have a size slightly greater than the diameter of rope C, forming a single mandatory path therefor, at the vertical slot 27 for the exit of the rope C out of the apparatus 1.
  • the oblong mobile element 130 has an active region, as braking surface and/or as surface subject to forces F A and F M , extending for a length greater than the diameter of rope C - and preferably substantially corresponding to the length of the drum 2.
  • the braking device 5 made by the mobile element 130 and the abutment 132 allows the rope C to be controlled during the fall of the climber A without excessively stress the mechanics of drum 2.
  • Such a braking device absorbs or discharges a great percentage of the tensile force developing within rope C, still lets the remaining percentage pass to the drum 2, thanks also to the minimum size of the gap 133.
  • the device is self-releasing.
  • the rope C takes up an even more tortuous trajectory, which increases the friction thereof on the side of branch C1 and induces the mobile element 130 to further rise, and thus brings towards the formation of the gap 133 and to its closure at the minimum size, and therefore to the closure of the braking mechanism (cf. FIG. 9 ).
  • the rope C turns out to be squeezed in the gap 133 between the mobile element 130 and the abutment 132; the squeezing of rope C causes sliding friction that slows down and stops the rope C.
  • the greater the tension within rope C the greater is the squeezing force exerted by abutment 132, thus the friction, and consequently the braking force of the braking mechanism of detector and braking assembly 9.
  • the springs 144, 148 work under compression in the condition of maximum braking of rope C, tending to push the slide 134 downwards so as to let the rope C free when the traction force exerted on the rope C ceases, thus configuring a self-releasing braking mechanism.
  • elastic return means different from springs 144, 148 may be provided for, including means acting under traction towards the opposite end of stroke position, for example springs extending between the bottom plate 142 and the slide 134.
  • the springs 144, 148 however preferably also play a sort of role as fall damper, condition corresponding to a quick rise of the mobile element 130, in that they are compressed during the phase of braking action onto the rope C. Springs 144, 148 limit, or contribute to limit, the force clamping the rope C within gap 133.
  • the above described top end of stroke to define the minimum size of gap 133 advantageously also has the effect of limiting the friction force that generates in the first phases of a fall.
  • Experimental tests have proven that during a fall, the tensile force within rope C has an initial maximum peak and then decreases until it reaches a constant tension due to the weight of the climber A.
  • the mechanical end of stroke allows the value of such a peak to be trimmed at a smaller force value, thus preventing the friction force generated by mobile element 130 and by abutment 132 onto rope C to be excessive, and that it might cause the sudden block of rope C.
  • the Applicant has indeed recognized that it is desirable that part of such force is transmitted to the drum 2 so that the rope C may continue to slide, although in a controlled manner.
  • the braking mechanism of detector and braking assembly 9 is configured so that the tension that is generated in the rope C during a fall acts in a larger percentage on braking device 5 and in a smaller, but preferably non-null, percentage on drum 2.
  • controller 7 determines how to drive motor 3 in order to control the rotation of drum 2 and preferably also the rotation at a different speed of the driven roller 92 of tensioner device 90 during the various phases of activity of the climber A. Controller 7 preferably drives the electric motors 65 of motor - drum assembly 8 and the motor 93 of tensioner device 90, if present, with pulse width modulation (PWM).
  • PWM pulse width modulation
  • a control cycle 1000 performed by controller 7, having a repetition period sufficiently small with respect to the voluntary and involuntary movements of the climber A, comprises:
  • the second step above is preferably performed by:
  • rope C is wound onto drum 2 for two concentric layers with juxtaposed turns, and departs from drum 2 at a longitudinal end, for example on the side of shoulder wall 22.
  • Rope C passes through tensioner device 90, which is in the corresponding longitudinal position, at the end of the stroke with respect to one of the two threadings of self-reversing screw 108, for example with respect to the left-handed threading 111.
  • Rope C then passes under mobile element 130 of detector and braking assembly 9, which mobile element 130 is in the bottom position along guides 136, 137, with the slides 134, 135 at the end of the stroke on the bottom plate 142 and the corresponding one of guide 137.
  • step 1003 how the speed value is established (in step 1003) during a normal climbing or "progression" operating mode, possibly including the initial phase in which the climber A starts to draw rope C to initially tie himself.
  • rope guide-tensioner assembly 4 If rope guide-tensioner assembly 4 is present, simultaneously the belt transmission 107 makes the self-reversing screw 108 rotate in the same direction about its own geometric axis, and tensioner device 90 moves along the right-handed threading 110 along drum 2, following rope C in its unwinding. Simultaneously, motor 93 of tensioner device 90, if present, makes the driven roller 92 rotate at a comparatively high speed, so as to aid unwinding of the rope.
  • the apparatus 1 allows unwinding of rope C from the drum 2.
  • tensioner device 90 if present, arrives at the end of the right-handed threading 110 adjacent to shoulder wall 23, its movement reverses, following the left-handed threading 111 up to shoulder wall 22, while the self-reversing screw 108 continues to rotate in the same direction about its own geometric axis.
  • both layers of rope C are unwound.
  • step 1011 The speed of motor 3 is kept at a positive value (step 1011), as unwinding speed V N > 0, as long as there is a traction F A by the climber A and in particular as long as the mobile element 130 continues to rise and, while it drops, until it drops again below a predetermined equilibrium position P EQ .
  • step 1010 it is preferably also checked that the position of mobile element 130 remains below another predetermined threshold position P M , advantageously corresponding to the position wherein the springs 144, 148 begin to be compressed, or more in general it is checked that the value of the control variable remains indicative of a normal request for rope by the climber A.
  • the equilibrium position P EQ corresponds to the position of mobile element 130 when it is subject to its own weight, is not subject to the action of the springs 144, 148, is subject to a desired minimum traction upwards by rope C.
  • the unwinding threshold position P SVOLG at which motor 3 is switched on may coincide with the equilibrium position P EQ at which motor 3 is switched off, but preferably the unwinding threshold position P SVOLG is higher than the equilibrium position P EQ so as to determine a certain hysteresis of the apparatus 1, in order to neglect small oscillations of the position of mobile element 130 about an equilibrium condition.
  • the apparatus 1 provides for winding the taken rope C onto the drum 2, instead of braking/blocking a length thereof letting the rest of rope C accumulate on the ground, as it happens, for example, with a belayer person, is also advantageous because the rope does not cause tripping hazard.
  • rope C does not urge the mobile element 130 anymore, and force F A has a null value.
  • the mobile element 130 tends to drop under return force F R , comprising its own weight and possible thrust of springs 144, 148.
  • controller 7 makes the motor 3 start to make the drum 2 rotate in the winding direction of rope C, at a winding speed V N which by convention will be referred to as a negative speed (step 1013), thus taking the rope C and avoiding that a length (or an excessive length) of slack rope is formed.
  • the belt transmission 107 makes self-reversing screw 108 rotate in the same direction about its own geometric axis, and tensioner device 90 moves along the drum 2 in the second direction, following the point of departure of rope C from drum 2 during unwinding thereof; at the end of the stroke, the tensioner device 90 reverses its motion, following the other threading.
  • the motor 93 of tensioner device 90 makes the driven roller 92 rotate at a comparatively low speed, so as to oppose a certain resistance to winding and tension the rope C in order for it to be tidy wound.
  • the speed of motor 3 is kept at a value negative by convention (step 1013), as winding speed V N ⁇ 0, as long as there is no traction F A by the climber A and in particular as long as the mobile element 130 continues to drop and, while it rises again, until it reaches the predetermined equilibrium position P EQ .
  • the winding threshold position P AVV at which motor 3 is switched on may coincide with the equilibrium position P EQ at which motor 3 is switched off, but preferably the winding threshold position P AVV is lower than the equilibrium position P EQ so as to determine a certain hysteresis of the apparatus 1, in order to neglect small oscillations of the position of mobile element 130 about an equilibrium condition.
  • unwinding speed V N > 0 and/or winding speed V N ⁇ 0 have an absolute value which is not constant, rather it is properly correlated with the position P(t N ) of mobile element 130, so as to be adequate to the magnitude of the force F A exerted onto rope C by the climber A, respectively adequate to the speed at which the climber A draws and respectively releases rope, and thus to the speed of the climber A.
  • V N is a function V N [P(t N ), P(t N-1 )] of, or in general is correlated with, one or more variables among:
  • Controller 7 may establish (block 1003 of FIG. 10 , or respectively in blocks 1011 and 1013 of FIG. 10 ) the speed value V N of motor 3 according to the control variable, in particular of the current position P(t N ) of mobile element 130, and possibly of other variables, by applying a mathematical function and/or through a lookup table.
  • Motor 3 is preferably actuated at a speed which is higher, in absolute value, as the further the mobile element 130 is from the equilibrium position P EQ , following, for example, at least piecewise, a linear or parabolic or hyperbolic law.
  • motor 3 is preferably actuated at a constant maximum winding speed V M_A and at a constant maximum unwinding speed V M_S , respectively, the two speeds V M_A and V M_S not necessarily being equal in absolute value.
  • the distance of the equilibrium position P EQ from the predetermined winding threshold position P AVV and the predetermined unwinding threshold position P SVOLG may be different or the same.
  • the distance between the predetermined winding threshold position P AVV and unwinding threshold position P SVOLG are preselected such that in any case an excessive length of slack rope C cannot build up.
  • controller 7 is advantageously considered by controller 7 as indicative of the switching to a different operating mode, referred to herein as "fall and suspension” mode, wherein the apparatus 1 remains until the condition lasts.
  • the elastic return means embodied by the springs 144, 148 preferably have, alternatively or additionally to the other functions mentioned above, the function of allowing a threshold value of detector device 6 to be defined (the above-mentioned predetermined threshold position P M ) in order to discriminate between a traction stress by the bend of rope C representative of a first operating mode and a traction stress by the bend of rope C representative of a second operating mode, wherein preferably the first operating mode is a fall condition of a climber A secured to an end of the rope C and the second operating mode is a voluntary movement of the climber A.
  • the controller 7 preferably establishes the speed value V N of motor 3 based on a predefined behavior over time, that allows the fall of the climber A to be stopped as early as possible, still however in a cushioned manner, until almost blocking rope C and thus allowing climber A to stay suspended in the air.
  • an exemplary and preferred predefined behavior over time comprises:
  • rope C slides initially free, not braked, through the detector and braking assembly 9 while the gap 133 first is not formed yet and then is still sufficiently open to exert a low braking force onto rope C, and is therefore released to climber A for an analogous length to that required by the fall of the climber A subject to weight force and to gravitational acceleration, still in progress, in practice letting him initially in free fall.
  • step 1021 allows thereafter to release increasingly less rope C than that requested by the fall of the climber A subject to weight force, still in progress.
  • Gap 133 increasingly closes, in that the rope branch C1 resists traction F A on branch C2 and, in the case of speed reversal at the end of step 1021, exerts in turn a traction F M upwards on the mobile element 130.
  • Rope C is thus subject to an increasing friction force over time and thus slides increasingly braked through detector and braking assembly 9, sufficiently braked to prevent the free fall of the climber A until it is almost blocked.
  • step 1022 traction force F M of rope branch C1 by the motor 3 is maximum and the gap 133 is at its minimum size, as dictated by the mechanic end of the stroke position P FC of mobile element 130.
  • the compression of the springs 144, 148 is maximum.
  • step 1022 If during step 1022 the climber A resumes his grip on the wall, thanks to the self-releasing feature of braking device 5, the stress F A of rope C on the side of branch C2 on mobile element 130 decreases, and the latter is pushed downwards by the return force F R formed by its weight, by the springs 144, 148 and/or by the vertical component of the reaction force acting on mobile element 130, dictated by the tilt of abutment 132.
  • the return force F R indeed prevails also on the small traction force F M exerted by motor 3 in this condition.
  • Gap 133 widens and rope C is set free.
  • Sensor element 130 drops below the position P M of begin of compression of the springs and the above described normal or "progression" operating mode is resumed.
  • FIG. 12 there is shown a block 1023 of check of the above condition, in parallel with blocks 1021, 1022, 1023, which is to be understood as a continuous check during the entire predetermined development over time of the "fall and suspension” mode. If, during the "fall and suspension” mode, the mobile element 130 drops below the position P M of begin of compression of the springs before the above described predefined behavior over time of the speed has finished, and thus before the stop or almost stop of rope C, then controller 7 interrupts such predefined behavior over time, going back (block 1024) to the "progression" mode, in particular to step 1010 of FIG. 11 ; otherwise the execution of block 1021, 1022 or 1023 it was performing continues (block 1025).
  • step 1022 an operating mode named "descent" begins, which is described with reference to FIG. 13 .
  • the speed of motor 3 is established, block 1003 of FIG. 10 , according to a specific predefined behavior over time.
  • the speed of motor 3 is established as a sufficiently low unwinding speed, so that the stress of rope C on the side of branch C1 onto mobile element 130 decreases and, still thanks to the self-releasing feature of braking device 5, gap 133 opens enough to allow the braked sliding of rope C. Because the weight of climber A continues to weight on the rope C as force F A , the apparatus 1 continues to release rope C and the climber A is slowly lowered to ground.
  • the unwinding speed during the "descent" mode is in any case sufficiently low to be bearable in the instant when the climber reaches ground.
  • the initial, comparatively low speed allows the climber A to resume his grip on the wall.
  • the speed V N may be obtained in step 1003 of FIG. 10 , in particular calculated or read from a lookup table, according to the position P(t N ) of mobile element 130.
  • the Applicant has recognized that it may happen that, due to a very quick and abrupt movement, made by the climber A as leading climber in order to secure the rope C to the next belay point, a movement that hereinafter will be termed "quick draw", the mobile element 130 is suddenly brought very high, above the position P M of begin of compression of the springs, namely it generates the same condition as used to recognize a fall condition (cf. step 1020 of FIG. 12 ).
  • the Applicant has however recognized that on the average, fall is a slower event than "quick draw". Specifically, the draw is characterized by a high speed, but a low force, corresponding to the traction by an arm; fall is instead characterized by an initial lower speed and a high force given by the weight of the climber A.
  • the condition of temporarily crossing the threshold P M of begin of compression of the springs typically occurs from a condition whereat the motor 3 is switched off and, according to what has been stated above, it is immediately switched on, in block 1020, at the very high unwinding speed V CAD .
  • the sudden deceleration of block 1021 according to a predefined behavior over time would entail, if it were not possible to distinguish between a fall condition and a draw condition, too slow draws or too long falls.
  • controller 7 might discriminate whether the overcoming of the position P M of begin of compression of the springs, in general the condition of sudden request for rope C by the climber A, is due to a jerk of the rope C in order to carry out a "quick draw” or to a true fall through a second evaluation of the position of mobile element 130 at the end of a predetermined time interval, what would however entail a delay in the actuation of the "fall and suspension” mode, and/or through the evaluation of the speed and/or the acceleration of the traction force F A .
  • controller 7, in "progression" mode further advantageously implements a control of the maximum acceleration imparted to motor 3.
  • the speed to be imparted to the motor 3 is such as to determine an excessive acceleration, in particular it is evaluated whether the difference between a speed V N obtained through calculation or lookup table in the manner described above and a value preceding in time of the speed V N-x imparted to the motor 3, wherein X is equal to 1 or to a preselected integer, is higher than a predetermined threshold.
  • step 1003 of FIG. 10 the speed of motor 3 is also established based on the value preceding in time of the speed itself.
  • the Applicant has established an optimal value for the desired maximum acceleration considering that in case of fall, the position of the climber A (and therefore the length of rope he would draw behind) changes over time according to a parabolic curve 1050 corresponding to free fall at gravitational acceleration of 9,8 m/sec 2 .
  • the length of rope C released by apparatus 1 has an initial value L INIZ which is not null and equal to the length of the rope at disposal within the braking device 5, at most equal to about twice the stroke of mobile element 130.
  • the length of rope C released by apparatus 1 follows a curve that may be approximated by curve 1051. As the acceleration decreases, the time needed to obtain the intersection of the two curves (cf. straight line 1053), which corresponds to the total brake of the climber A, decreases.
  • Preferred values for the maximum acceleration A max are comprised in the range between 3 m/s 2 and 7 m/s 2 , preferably in the range between 4 m/s 2 and 6 Even more preferably, the maximum acceleration A max is equal to 4,8
  • controller 7 is overall configured to control the motor means 3 according to a law other than both a linear function and a piecewise linear function of the control variable, although it may follow a linear function or a piecewise linear function in one or more ranges of the control variable and/or in one or more operating modes.
  • slot 27 extends downwards until a position below the above-mentioned equilibrium position P EQ of mobile element 130.
  • cover 20 neither hinders nor deflects rope C, allowing the detector and braking assembly 9 to detect all the notable positions referred to above in an accurate manner.
  • controller 7 further receives the outputs of the electromagnetic encoder formed by elements 48, 49 and of the electromagnetic end of stroke device formed by elements 124, 125, and it may implement other control functions based thereon.
  • controller 7 If controller 7 detects an anomaly, for example a rotation of drum 2 unexpected or not compliant with the speed imparted to the motors 3, then the emergency blocking device 73 is activated.
  • Controller 7 preferably also performs one or more of the following auxiliary functions. Some of these can be selectively activated, through the user interface 30. Some of these are possible also thanks to the fact that the controller preferably counts the meters of rope C released based on the commands imparted to motor 3 over time, on the signal coming from the encoder formed by elements 48, 49 of motor - drum assembly 8, and of signal of the end of stroke device formed by elements 124, 125 of rope guide-tensioner assembly 4.
  • An auxiliary function relates to the limitation of the amount of slack rope during the entire operation of the apparatus 1.
  • the length of rope C that is delivered each time the mobile element 130 rises from its equilibrium position P EQ is limited to a predetermined rope length, which allows all the necessary maneuvers to be carried out, but allows the free fall to be kept within safety levels.
  • This predetermined rope length is so selected as not to be reached during normal operation of the apparatus 1. In this manner it is prevented that the length of slack rope C might become excessive due to a mistake of the climber A.
  • An auxiliary function relates to attaching rope C to climber A.
  • the rope C is advantageously completely wound onto drum 2 and only a short length of rope C exits from slot 27, so as not to be exposed on the ground, where, among other things, it could cause people to trip.
  • the apparatus 1 delivers a predetermined length of rope C, which should then not be taken during the normal operation of the apparatus 1 until switching off thereof.
  • This auxiliary function may be activated through the user interface 30, or automatically by exploiting the knowledge by the controller 7 of the length of rope C that is out of drum 2 at each time - or dually the amount of rope wound on drum 2 at each time.
  • the controller drives the motor 3 in order to unwind up to a preset maximum length of rope C, thus allowing the knot and all the preparation operations before starting to climb to be made, and thus the draw of rope C, in the case of a leading climber A.
  • a further auxiliary function advantageously actuatable upon receipt of a predetermined input on the user interface 30 following the just described function, is a check called in jargon "partner check": in order to check that climber A has correctly tied before departing to climb, the apparatus 1 takes rope C until all the present slack has been eliminated, and then draws it slightly in order to check, through the rise of the mobile element 130, that it is tied. Furthermore, an explicit confirmation may be requested to the climber A, through input on the user interface 30, of the fact that he provided to the knot and check thereof.
  • a further auxiliary function allows the end of the descent as leading climber to be managed and to decide, through a suitable input on the user interface 30, whether to take all the rope in order to put away the apparatus 1 in standby or vice versa whether to keep the rope C temporarily blocked, subsequently proceed to attachment to the harness of a climber A as second climber, and to the partner check function.
  • a specific mode for climbing as second climber is also provided for, wherein the equilibrium position P EQ and the winding threshold P AVV are moved higher than in the case of a leading climber, so that the apparatus 1 operates with the mobile element 130 in the zone closest to the springs 144, 148.
  • the excess rope C is taken while the climber A ascends and the rope is kept under slight tension.
  • the gap 133 between the mobile element 130 and the abutment 132 immediately builds up and closes, and the climber A stays suspended essentially without falling; in a manner analogous to what has been described above, after a certain time in this suspension condition, the descent occurs.
  • An analogous behavior wherein the winding threshold P AVV and the equilibrium position P EQ are brought very high, may be provided for according to a further auxiliary function, termed herein "reactive belaying", so as to minimize the free stroke of mobile element 130 and therefore the slack length of rope C and therefore such as to minimize the fall length.
  • auxiliary function is useful for example during the first meters of the climb, when one is still close to ground, or when one arrives at the highest point in absolute, or "range”. In such a case, the allowed free fall is of very few centimeters.
  • This function may be automatically activated by controller 7 when it knows that a length of rope C sufficient to reach the "range" has been delivered.
  • a further auxiliary function relates to the output of a signal immediately usable by the climber A, indicative of the condition of the apparatus 1: when the display 31 is provided for on the top wall of cover 20, it may advantageously take on the green color during the normal operation, the yellow or orange color in case of braked rope C, and the red color when the rope C is braked maximally, or even totally blocked, or a different chromatic language.
  • the climber A will immediately perceive the color looking down.
  • a further auxiliary function relates to the replacement of rope C when it is worn out, and consists of actuating motor 3 in order to completely unwind the rope C so as to gain access to the hook at which it is connected and thereafter, upon having connected the new rope, winding again completely the new rope onto drum 2.
  • a further auxiliary function provides for driving the motor 3 with comparatively long delay times and/or higher tolerances in the tension of rope C or vice versa in the slack length, in order to allow tracing of a new climb route by attaching new belay points to the wall or the disposal of a climb route by removing the belay points.
  • a further auxiliary function provides for driving motor 3 with comparatively short delay times and/or lower tolerances in the tension of rope C or vice versa in the slack length, in order to allow conducting training courses for beginners.
  • a further auxiliary function provides for tracking the movements made and/o the times of the individual tracks and/or of the entire climb, possibly combined with parameters of the climb route.
  • the tracked data may be stored, possibly associated with a user profile.
  • the tracked data may be shared on the net and/or with a mobile device, such as a smartphone.
  • These functionalities allow to keep track of one's own workouts, consult them and share them. In particular it will be possible to record which route one has climbed, in how much time, with how many falls; visualize which are the critical passages where most climbers fall; share one's results on social networks; add friends and create challenges; set training goals; know which routes are available, of which grade, and whether they are occupied by another user, etc.
  • the various operating modes and auxiliary functions described above may be managed by one or more software modules run in the controller 7.
  • belaying apparatus 1 performs the following functions:
  • the belaying apparatus 1 further features remarkable advantages, among which:

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  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
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  • Motorcycle And Bicycle Frame (AREA)

Claims (12)

  1. Dispositif d'assurage (1) pour l'escalade sportive, comprenant un tambour d'enroulement/de déroulement (2) pour une corde d'escalade (C); des moyens moteurs (3) destinés à leur rotation bidirectionnelle; un dispositif de détection (6); et un dispositif de commande (7) destiné à recevoir la sortie du dispositif de détection (6) et à commander les moyens moteurs (3) au moins sur cette base, caractérisé en ce que le dispositif de détection (6) comprend une trajectoire prévue pour une longueur de corde (C), la trajectoire ayant une longueur variable corrélée avec les déplacements longitudinaux de la corde (C), et émet une variable de commande (P(tN)) représentative de la longueur de trajectoire, et dans lequel le dispositif de commande (7) est configuré pour commander les moyens moteurs (3), dans le sens et à la vitesse de rotation (VN), en fonction au moins de la valeur de la variable de commande (P(tN)).
  2. Dispositif (1) selon la revendication 1, dans lequel le dispositif de commande (7) est configuré pour commander les moyens moteurs (3), dans le sens et à la vitesse de rotation (VN), en fonction en outre d'au moins une valeur, antérieure dans le temps, de la variable de commande (P(tN-1)) et/ou sur le temps écoulé (t).
  3. Dispositif (1) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 2, dans lequel le dispositif de commande (7) est configuré pour commander les moyens moteurs (3) selon une loi autre qu'une fonction linéaire et une fonction linéaire par morceaux de la variable de commande (P(tN)).
  4. Dispositif (1) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, dans lequel le dispositif de commande (7) est configuré pour exécuter au moins deux modes de fonctionnement choisis dans le groupe consistant en: un mode gérant la progression d'un grimpeur (A), un mode gérant la chute et/ou la suspension à la corde (C) d'un grimpeur (A), un mode gérant une traction rapide de la corde (C) par un grimpeur (A), et de préférence est configuré pour exécuter en outre au moins un mode auxiliaire.
  5. Dispositif (1) selon la revendication 4, dans lequel le dispositif de commande (7) est configuré pour choisir le mode de fonctionnement à effectuer en fonction de la variable de commande (P(tN)) et éventuellement d'une valeur (P(tN-1)) de celle-ci précédant dans le temps et/ou du temps écoulé (t).
  6. Dispositif (1) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, dans lequel, dans un mode de fonctionnement gérant la chute d'un grimpeur (A), le dispositif de commande (7) est configuré pour commander les moyens moteurs (3) selon un comportement prédéfini dans le temps, comprenant une vitesse de déroulement initiale relativement élevée (VCAD) et, immédiatement après, une décélération jusqu'à une vitesse d'enroulement comparativement faible (VSVOLG).
  7. Dispositif (1) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, dans lequel le dispositif de commande (7) est configuré pour limiter, au moins dans un mode de fonctionnement gérant la progression d'un grimpeur (A), l'accélération des moyens moteurs (3) à une accélération comprise entre 3 m/s2 et 7 m/s2, de préférence entre 4 m/s2 et 6 m/s2, plus préférentiellement égale à 4,8 m/s2.
  8. Dispositif (1) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7, dans lequel le dispositif de détection (6) comprend un élément mobile (130), de préférence mobile dans une direction sensiblement verticale, configuré pour être partiellement entouré par un coude de corde (C), dans lequel l'élément mobile (130) est soumis à une contrainte de traction (FA, FM) par le coude de corde (C) et à une contrainte de retour (FR), et dans lequel ledit dispositif de détection (6) comprend un transducteur (131) qui détecte la position dudit élément mobile (130).
  9. Dispositif (1) selon la revendication 8, comprenant en outre des moyens de rappel élastiques (144, 148) configurés pour:
    - définir au moins une composante de la contrainte de retour (FR),
    - permettre de définir une valeur seuil dudit dispositif de détection (6), afin de distinguer entre une contrainte de traction par le coude de la corde (C) représentatif d'une première condition de fonctionnement et une contrainte de traction par le coude de la corde (C) représentatif d'une seconde condition de fonctionnement, dans laquelle, de préférence, la première condition de fonctionnement est une condition de chute d'un grimpeur (A) fixé à une extrémité de la corde (C), et la seconde condition de fonctionnement est un mouvement volontaire du grimpeur (A).
  10. Dispositif (1) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 8 à 9, dans lequel l'élément mobile (130) est oblong afin de ne pas définir une seule trajectoire obligatoire pour la corde (C), dans lequel, de préférence, la longueur de l'élément mobile (130) correspond sensiblement à la longueur du tambour (2).
  11. Procédé d'assurage d'un grimpeur (A), comprenant les étapes non nécessairement séquentielles de:
    - fixer une extrémité de la corde (C) à un grimpeur (A),
    - fixer une extrémité opposée de la corde (C) à un tambour d'enroulement/de déroulement (2) mis en rotation par des moyens moteurs (3),
    - fournir une trajectoire prévue pour une longueur de corde (C),
    - permettre à la longueur de la trajectoire prévue de varier en fonction des déplacements longitudinaux de la corde (C),
    - détecter la longueur de la trajectoire prévue,
    - entraîner les moyens moteurs (3), dans le sens et à la vitesse de rotation, en fonction au moins de la longueur détectée de la trajectoire prévue.
  12. Procédé selon la revendication 11, dans lequel lesdites étapes sont réalisées par les étapes non nécessairement séquentielles suivantes:
    - fournir un dispositif de détection (6) comprenant un élément mobile (130),
    - tourner la corde (C) autour de l'élément mobile (130) selon un angle inférieur à un périgone formant un coude de la corde (C),
    - fixer la corde (C), en amont de l'élément mobile (130), à un tambour d'enroulement/de déroulement (2) mis en rotation par des moyens moteurs (3),
    - fixer la corde (C), en aval de l'élément mobile (130), au grimpeur (A),
    - détecter la position de l'élément mobile (130), et
    - entraîner les moyens moteurs (3), dans le sens et à la vitesse de rotation, en fonction au moins de la position détectée.
EP20812442.0A 2020-03-31 2020-11-23 Appareil d'assurage pour l'escalade sportive Active EP4126269B1 (fr)

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IT102020000006769A IT202000006769A1 (it) 2020-03-31 2020-03-31 Apparecchiatura di sicurezza per arrampicata sportiva.
PCT/IB2020/061032 WO2021198758A1 (fr) 2020-03-31 2020-11-23 Appareil d'assurage pour l'escalade sportive

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FR3129291B1 (fr) * 2021-11-24 2023-12-08 Thibault Devienne Dispositif d’assurage automatise portatif pour des applications d’escalade ou de travaux en hauteur
CN115089899B (zh) * 2022-03-31 2023-04-18 国网浙江省电力有限公司龙游县供电公司 一种高压线作业跌落自救装置及方法
CN115127508B (zh) * 2022-08-31 2023-02-07 常州奥智高分子集团股份有限公司 一种扩散板表面平整度检测治具
WO2024242562A1 (fr) * 2023-05-19 2024-11-28 Evacuator International Property B.V. Dispositif d'évacuation de personnes

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FR2727026B1 (fr) 1994-11-18 1996-12-27 Jomard Christine Brouty Dispositif d'assurance automatique d'un grimpeur en cours d'escalade
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WO2021055748A2 (fr) * 2019-09-20 2021-03-25 TruBlue LLC Systèmes et dispositifs de commande de descente de verrouillage

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