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EP4072684B1 - Composition de renforcement des cheveux - Google Patents

Composition de renforcement des cheveux Download PDF

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Publication number
EP4072684B1
EP4072684B1 EP20829510.5A EP20829510A EP4072684B1 EP 4072684 B1 EP4072684 B1 EP 4072684B1 EP 20829510 A EP20829510 A EP 20829510A EP 4072684 B1 EP4072684 B1 EP 4072684B1
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EP
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Prior art keywords
hair care
care composition
silicone
hair
acid
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EP20829510.5A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP4072684A1 (fr
Inventor
Jennifer Mary Marsh
Timothy James Felts
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Procter and Gamble Co
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Procter and Gamble Co
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/002—Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/362—Polycarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a hair care composition
  • a hair care composition comprising azelaic acid and oleic acid to provide an anti-breakage hair strength benefit.
  • a common method of providing a hair health benefit is through the use of conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants and polymers, high melting point fatty compounds, low melting point oils, silicone compounds, and mixtures thereof.
  • Most of these conditioning agents are known to provide various hair health benefits.
  • hair strength is an important benefit, as it helps the hair reduce breakage. Hair breakage is noticed, often as hair loss, by the consumer during hair brushing or styling.
  • two actives can significantly improve fatigue strength, thereby minimizing breakage; azelaic acid and oleic acid. When used in combination they result in a synergistic benefit. It is believed that they work by different mechanisms, azelaic acid partitions into the protein region of hair and oleic acid partitions into the lipid cell membrane complex region.
  • KR 2018 0096564 A discloses hair cure compositions comprising oleic acid but void of azelaic acid. Said compositions are capable of imparting to the hair the effect of strengthening the strength of hair, increasing thickness, imparting volume, and reducing breakage.
  • a hair care composition comprising from about 0.04 wt% to about 2 wt % azelaic acid; from about 0.04 wt% to about 1 wt % oleic acid; wherein the ratio of oleic acid to azelaic acid is from about 1:1 to about 1:3 Oleic: Azelaic; and an aqueous carrier.
  • mixtures is meant to include a simple combination of materials and any compounds that may result from their combination.
  • molecular weight or "M.Wt.” as used herein refers to the weight average molecular weight unless otherwise stated.
  • the weight average molecular weight may be measured by gel permeation chromatography.
  • QS means sufficient quantity for 100%.
  • the hair care composition comprises azelaic acid and oleic acid.
  • the hair care composition may further comprise materials selected from a cationic surfactant; a high melting point fatty compound; a silicone; an aqueous carrier and combinations thereof.
  • the hair care composition can be a rinse off or a leave on treatment.
  • the hair care composition can be a hair conditioner.
  • the oleic acid and azelaic acid are added in a ratio of from about 1:1 to about 1:3, alternatively from about 1:2.5 to about 1:3 oleic acid to azelaic acid, alternatively from about 1:2 to about 1:3 oleic acid to azelaic acid, alternatively from about 1:1.5 to about 1:3 oleic acid to azelaic acid.
  • azelaic acid and oleic acid results in a synergistic increase of hair strength.
  • a combined strength benefit may be realized with a combination of the acids. It is believed that the two actives partition into different parts of the hair to provide a strength benefit; Oleic acid into the lipid-rich cell membrane complex and azelaic acid into the protein regions of hair Regular bleach hair is dosed at 1.25 mg acid/g hair with 1:3, 1:1, and 3:1 oleic: azelaic acid.
  • the data in Table 1 shows a benefit from a ratio of about 1:1 and an even more improved alpha value for the acids having a higher level of azelaic acid to oleic acid (at the same total amount of acid/gram of hair).
  • the hair care composition comprises from about 0.04 wt %to about 2wt% azelaic acid, alternatively from about 0.1 wt %to about 1 wt% azelaic acid.
  • Azelaic acid is also known as nonanedioic acid and is a saturated dicarboxylic acid; available from Sigma-Aldrich. It has been used in skin care products for the treatment of mild cases of acne and skin hyperpigmentation.
  • the hair care composition comprises from about 0.04 wt %to about 2 wt% oleic acid, alternatively from about 0.1 wt %to about 0.5 wt% oleic acid.
  • Oleic acid is also known as cis-9-Octadecenoic Acid, and is available from Natural Oleo Chemicals. It is an unsaturated fatty acid found in the lipid-rich cell membrane complex of healthy hair.
  • the hair care composition described herein comprises a cationic surfactant system.
  • the cationic surfactant system can be one cationic surfactant or a mixture of two or more cationic surfactants.
  • the cationic surfactant system can be selected from: mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt; a combination of mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt and di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt; mono-long alkyl amidoamine salt; a combination of mono-long alkyl amidoamine salt and di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt, a combination of mono-long alkyl amindoamine salt and mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt.
  • the cationic surfactant system can be included in the hair care composition at a level of from about 0.1% to about 10%, alternatively from about 0.5% to about 8%, alternatively from about 0.8 % to about 5%, and alternatively from about 1.0% to about 4%, by weight of the hair care composition.
  • the monoalkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic surfactants useful herein are those having one long alkyl chain which has from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and in one embodiment at C18-22 alkyl group.
  • the remaining groups attached to nitrogen are independently selected from an alkyl group of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms or an alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 4 carbon atoms.
  • Mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein are those having the formula (I): wherein one of R 75 , R 76 , R 77 and R 78 is selected from an alkyl group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 30 carbon atoms; the remainder of R 75 , R 76 , R 77 and R 78 are independently selected from an alkyl group of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms or an alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 4 carbon atoms; and X - is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g.
  • alkyl groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether and/or ester linkages, and other groups such as amino groups.
  • the longer chain alkyl groups e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.
  • R 75 , R 76 , R 77 and R 78 can be selected from an alkyl group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, an/or 22 carbon atoms; the remainder of R 75 , R 76 , R 77 and R 78 are independently selected from CH 3 , C 2 H 5 , C 2 H 4 OH, and mixtures thereof; and X is selected from the group consisting of Cl, Br, CH 3 OSO 3 , C 2 H 5 OSO 3 , and mixtures thereof.
  • Nonlimiting examples of such mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic surfactants include: behenyl trimethyl ammonium salt; stearyl trimethyl ammonium salt; cetyl trimethyl ammonium salt; and hydrogenated tallow alkyl trimethyl ammonium salt.
  • Mono-long alkyl amines are also suitable as cationic surfactants.
  • Primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines are useful. Particularly useful are tertiary amido amines having an alkyl group of from about 12 to about 22 carbons.
  • Exemplary tertiary amido amines include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstear
  • amines in the present invention are disclosed in U.S. Patent 4,275,055, Nachtigal, et al. These amines can also be used in combination with acids such as /-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, l-glutamic hydrochloride, maleic acid, and mixtures thereof; in one embodiment l-glutamic acid, lactic acid, and/or citric acid.
  • the amines herein can be partially neutralized with any of the acids at a molar ratio of the amine to the acid of from about 1 : 0.3 to about 1 : 2, and/or from about 1 : 0.4 to about 1 : 1.
  • Di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt can be combined with a mono-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salt or mono-long alkyl amidoamine salt. It is believed that such combination can provide easy-to rinse feel, compared to single use of a monoalkyl quaternized ammonium salt or mono-long alkyl amidoamine salt.
  • the di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts are used at a level such that the wt% of the dialkyl quaternized ammonium salt in the cationic surfactant system is in the range of from about 10% to about 50%, and/or from about 30% to about 45%.
  • dialkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic surfactants useful herein are those having two long alkyl chains having 12-30 carbon atoms, and/or 16-24 carbon atoms, and/or 18-22 carbon atoms.
  • the remaining groups attached to nitrogen are independently selected from an alkyl group of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms or an alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 4 carbon atoms.
  • Di-long alkyl quaternized ammonium salts useful herein are those having the formula (II): wherein two of R 75 , R 76 , R 77 and R 78 is selected from an alkyl group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 30 carbon atoms; the remainder of R 75 , R 76 , R 77 and R 78 are independently selected from an alkyl group of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms or an alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 4 carbon atoms; and X - is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g.
  • alkyl groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether and/or ester linkages, and other groups such as amino groups.
  • the longer chain alkyl groups e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.
  • R 75 , R 76 , R 77 and R 78 can be selected from an alkyl group of from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, and/or 22 carbon atoms; the remainder of R 75 , R 76 , R 77 and R 78 are independently selected from CH 3 , C 2 H 5 , C 2 H 4 OH, and mixtures thereof; and X is selected from the group consisting of Cl, Br, CH 3 OSO 3 , C 2 H 5 OSO 3 , and mixtures thereof.
  • dialkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic surfactants include, for example, dialkyl (14-18) dimethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.
  • dialkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic surfactants also include, for example, asymmetric dialkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic surfactants.
  • the hair care composition comprises an aqueous carrier at a level of from about 75% to about 98%, alternatively from about 80% to about 95%, by weight of the hair care composition. Accordingly, the hair care composition can be in the form of pourable liquids (under ambient conditions).
  • the aqueous carrier may comprise water, or a miscible mixture of water and organic solvent, and in one aspect may comprise water with minimal or no significant concentrations of organic solvent, except as otherwise incidentally incorporated into the composition as minor ingredients of other components.
  • the aqueous carrier can include water solutions of lower alkyl alcohols and polyhydric alcohols.
  • the lower alkyl alcohols useful herein are monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6 carbons, in one aspect, ethanol and isopropanol.
  • the polyhydric alcohols useful herein include propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and propane diol.
  • the hair care composition may have a pH in the range from about 2 to about 10, alternatively from about 3 to about 8, at 25°C.
  • the hair care composition can also be effective toward washing out the existing minerals and redox metals deposits, which can reduce cuticle distortion and thereby reduce cuticle chipping and damage.
  • the hair care composition can comprise a gel matrix.
  • the gel matrix comprises a cationic surfactant, a high melting point fatty compound, and an aqueous carrier.
  • the second polysiloxane has a viscosity of from about 5 mm 2 s -1 to about 10,000 mm 2 s -1 at 25°C, such as from about 5 mm 2 s -1 to about 5,000 mm 2 s -1 , from about 10 mm 2 s -1 to about 1,000 mm 2 s -1 , or from about 20 mm 2 s -1 to about 350 mm 2 s -1 .
  • the second polysiloxane has a molecular weight of from about 400 to about 65,000.
  • the molecular weight of the second polysiloxane may range from about 800 to about 50,000, from about 400 to about 30,000, or from about 400 to about 15,000.
  • the second polysiloxane may be nonionic.
  • the second polysiloxane may be a linear silicone.
  • the aminosilicones useful herein are water-insoluble.
  • Water-insoluble aminosilicone means that the aminosilicone has a solubility of 10g or less per 100g water at 25°C, alternatively 5g or less per 100g water at 25°C, and alternatively 1g or less per 100g water at 25°C.
  • Water-insoluble aminosilicone means that the aminosilicone is substantially free of copolyol groups. If copolyol groups are present, they are present at a level of less than 10 wt%, less than 1 wt%, or less than 0.1 wt% by weight of the aminosilicone.
  • aminosilicone useful herein includes, for example, quaternized aminosilicone having a tradename KF8020 available from Shinetsu.
  • the hair care composition may comprise a silicone copolymer emulsion with an internal phase viscosity of greater than about 100 ⁇ 10 6 mm 2 s -1 .
  • the silicone copolymer emulsion may be present in an amount of from about 0.1 wt% to about 15 wt%, alternatively from about 0.3 wt% to about 10 wt%, and alternatively about 0.5 wt% to about 5 wt%, by weight of the composition, in view of providing clean feel.
  • the following procedure can be used to break the polymer from the emulsion: 1) add 10 grams of an emulsion sample to 15 milliliters of isopropyl alcohol; 2) mix well with a spatula; 3) decant the isopropyl alcohol; 4) add 10 milliliters of acetone and knead polymer with spatula; 5) decant the acetone; 6) place polymer in an aluminum container and flatten/dry with a paper towel; and 7) dry for two hours in an 80°C.
  • the polymer can then be tested using any known rheometer, such as, for example, a CarriMed, Haake, or Monsanto rheometer, which operates in the dynamic shear mode.
  • the internal phase viscosity values can be obtained by recording the dynamic viscosity (n') at a 9.900*10 -3 Hz frequency point.
  • the average particle size of the emulsions can be less than about 1 micron, such as less than about 0.7 micron.
  • the silicone copolymer emulsions of the present invention may comprise a silicone copolymer, at least one surfactant, and water.
  • the silicone copolymer results from the addition reaction of the following two materials in the presence of a metal containing catalyst:
  • the mixture used to form the emulsion also may contain at least one surfactant.
  • This can include non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, alkylpolysaccharides, amphoteric surfactants, and the like.
  • the above surfactants can be used individually or in combination.
  • An exemplary method of making the silicone copolymer emulsions described herein comprises the steps of 1) mixing materials (a) described above with material (b) described above, followed by mixing in an appropriate metal containing catalyst, such that material (b) is capable of reacting with material (a) in the presence of the metal containing catalyst; 2) further mixing in at least one surfactant and water; and 3) emulsifying the mixture.
  • Methods of making such silicone copolymer emulsions are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 6,013,682 ; PCT Application No. WO 01/58986 A1 ; and European Patent Application No. EP0874017 A2 .
  • a commercially available example of a silicone copolymer emulsion is an emulsion of about 60-70 wt% of divinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer having an internal phase viscosity of minimum 120 ⁇ 10 6 mm 2 s -1 , available from Dow Corning with a tradename HMW2220.
  • the hair care composition may comprise a silicone polymer containing quaternary groups (i.e., a quaternized silicone polymer).
  • a quaternized silicone polymer provides improved conditioning benefits such as smooth feel, reduced friction, prevention of hair damage.
  • the quaternary group can have good affinity with damaged/colorant hairs.
  • the quaternized silicone polymer is present in an amount of from about 0.1 wt% to about 15 wt%, based on the total weight of the hair conditioning composition.
  • the quaternized silicone polymer may be present in an amount from about 0.2 wt% to about 10 wt%, alternatively from about 0.3 wt% to about 5 wt%, and alternatively from about 0.5 wt% to about 4 wt%, by weight of the composition.
  • the quaternized silicone polymer of the present invention is comprised of at least one silicone block and at least one non-silicone block containing quaternary nitrogen groups, wherein the number of the non-silicone blocks is one greater than the number of the silicone blocks.
  • the combination of the quaternized silicone polymer, grafted silicone copolyol, and cationic surfactant system comprising di-alkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic surfactants provides improved friction reduction benefit, compared to a similar combination.
  • Such similar combinations are, for example, a combination in which the grafted silicone copolyol is replaced with end-capped silicone copolyol, and another combination in which the cationic surfactant system is substantially free of di-alkyl quaternized ammonium salt cationic surfactants.
  • Such emulsifying surfactant can be used at a level of about 0.001 wt% to about 1.5 wt%, alternatively from about 0.005% to about 1.0%, and alternatively from about 0.01 wt% to about 0.5 wt%, based on the total weight of the hair conditioning composition.
  • Such surfactants may be nonionic, and have an HLB value of from about 2 to about 15, such as from about 3 to about 14, or from about 3 to about 10.
  • Commercially available examples of emulsifying surfactant include nonionic surfactants having an INCI name C12-C14 Pareth-3 and having an HLB value of about 8 supplied from NIKKO Chemicals Co., Ltd. with tradename NIKKOL BT-3.
  • conditioning agents are also suitable for use in the hair care compositions herein.
  • those conditioning agents described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,529,586 , 4,507,280 , 4,663,158 , 4,197,865 , 4,217, 914 , 4,381,919 , and 4,422, 853 are also suitable for use in the hair care compositions herein.
  • Suspending agents useful herein include anionic polymers and nonionic polymers.
  • vinyl polymers such as cross linked acrylic acid polymers with the CTFA name Carbomer, cellulose derivatives and modified cellulose polymers such as methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, nitro cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powder, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, xanthan gum, arabia gum, tragacanth, galactan, carob gum, guar gum, karaya gum, carrageenan, pectin, agar, quince seed (Cydonia oblonga Mill), starch (rice, corn, potato, wheat), algae colloids (algae extract), microbiological polymers such as dextran, succinoglucan, pulleran,
  • Viscosity modifiers highly useful herein include Carbomers with trade names Carbopol ® 934, Carbopol ® 940, Carbopol ® 950, Carbopol ® 980, and Carbopol ® 981, all available from B. F.
  • suspending agents include crystalline suspending agents which can be categorized as acyl derivatives, long chain amine oxides, and mixtures thereof. These suspending agents are described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,741,855 .
  • acyl derivatives suitable for use as suspending agents include N,N-dihydrocarbyl amido benzoic acid and soluble salts thereof (e.g., Na, K), particularly N,N-di(hydrogenated) C16, C18 and tallow amido benzoic acid species of this family, which are commercially available from Stepan Company (Northfield, Ill., USA).
  • Suitable long chain amine oxides for use as suspending agents include alkyl dimethyl amine oxides, e.g., stearyl dimethyl amine oxide.
  • suspending agents include primary amines having a fatty alkyl moiety having at least about 16 carbon atoms, examples of which include palmitamine or stearamine, and secondary amines having two fatty alkyl moieties each having at least about 12 carbon atoms, examples of which include dipalmitoylamine or di(hydrogenated tallow)amine. Still other suitable suspending agents include di(hydrogenated tallow)phthalic acid amide, and crosslinked maleic anhydride-methyl vinyl ether copolymer.
  • the hair care composition can further comprises one or more additional benefit agents.
  • the benefit agents comprise a material selected from the group consisting of anti-dandruff agents, vitamins, lipid soluble vitamins, chelants, perfumes, brighteners, enzymes, sensates, attractants, anti-bacterial agents, dyes, pigments, bleaches, and mixtures thereof.
  • the pyridinethione salts are those formed from heavy metals such as zinc, tin, cadmium, magnesium, aluminium and zirconium, generally zinc, typically the zinc salt of 1-hydroxy-2-pyridinethione (known as "zinc pyridinethione" or "ZPT"), commonly 1-hydroxy-2-pyridinethione salts in platelet particle form.
  • the 1-hydroxy-2-pyridinethione salts can be in platelet particle form have an average particle size of up to about 20 microns, or up to about 5 microns, or up to about 2.5 microns. Salts formed from other cations, such as sodium, may also be suitable.
  • Pyridinethione anti-dandruff actives are described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No.
  • the composition may further comprise one or more anti-fungal and/or anti-microbial actives.
  • the anti-microbial active can be selected from the group consisting of: coal tar, sulfur, fcharcoal, whitfield's ointment, castellani's paint, aluminum chloride, gentian violet, octopirox (piroctone olamine), ciclopirox olamine, undecylenic acid and its metal salts, potassium permanganate, selenium sulphide, sodium thiosulfate, propylene glycol, oil of bitter orange, urea preparations, griseofulvin, 8-hydroxyquinoline ciloquinol, thiobendazole, thiocarbamates, haloprogin, polyenes, hydroxypyridone, morpholine, benzylamine, allylamines (such as terbinafine), tea
  • the ZLM can be a layered double hydroxide conforming to the formula [M 2+ 1-x M 3+ x (OH) 2 ] x+ A m- x/m ⁇ nH 2 O wherein some or all of the divalent ions (M 2+ ) are zinc ions ( Crepaldi, EL, Pava, PC, Tronto, J, Valim, JB J. Colloid Interfac. Sci. 2002, 248, 429-42 ).
  • ZLMs can be prepared called hydroxy double salts ( Morioka, H., Tagaya, H., Karasu, M, Kadokawa, J, Chiba, K Inorg. Chem. 1999, 38, 4211-6 ).
  • the ZLM can be a zinc hydroxychloride and/or zinc hydroxynitrate. These are related to hydrozincite as well wherein a divalent anion replaces the monovalent anion. These materials can also be formed in situ in a composition or in or during a production process.
  • the ratio of zinc-containing layered material to pyrithione or a polyvalent metal salt of pyrithione is from about 5:100 to about 10:1, or from about 2:10 to about 5:1, or from about 1:2 to about 3: 1.
  • the on-scalp deposition of the anti-dandruff active is at least about 1 microgram/cm 2 .
  • the on-scalp deposition of the anti-dandruff active is important in view of ensuring that the anti-dandruff active reaches the scalp where it is able to perform its function.
  • the deposition of the anti-dandruff active on the scalp can be at least about 1.5 microgram/cm 2 , or at least about 2.5 microgram/cm 2 , or at least about 3 microgram/cm 2 , or at least about 4 microgram/cm 2 , or at least about 6 microgram/cm 2 , or at least about 7 microgram/cm 2 , or at least about 8 microgram/cm 2 , or at least about 8 microgram/cm 2 , or at least about 10 microgram/cm 2 .

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Claims (13)

  1. Composition pour soins capillaires comprenant :
    de 0,04 % en poids à 2 % en poids d'acide azélaïque ;
    de 0,04 % en poids à 1 % en poids d'acide oléique ;
    dans laquelle le rapport pondéral de l'acide oléique à l'acide azélaïque va de 1:1 à 1:3 oléique:azélaïque ;
    et un véhicule aqueux.
  2. Composition pour soins capillaires selon l'une quelconque revendication précédente, dans laquelle le rapport pondéral de l'acide oléique à l'acide azélaïque est de 1:2,5 à 1:3, de préférence dans laquelle le rapport de l'acide oléique à l'acide azélaïque est de 1:2 à 1:3, de préférence dans laquelle le rapport pondéral de l'acide oléique à l'acide azélaïque est de 1:1,5 à 1:3.
  3. Composition pour soins capillaires selon l'une quelconque revendication précédente, dans laquelle la composition comprend de 0,1 % en poids à 1 % en poids d'acide azélaïque, et dans laquelle la composition comprend de 0,1 % en poids à 0,5 % en poids d'acide oléique.
  4. Composition pour soins capillaires selon l'une quelconque revendication précédente, comprenant en outre un composé gras à point de fusion élevé, de préférence dans laquelle le composé gras à point de fusion élevé est sélectionné dans le groupe constitué d'alcool cétylique, alcool stéarylique, docosanol et mélanges de ceux-ci.
  5. Composition pour soins capillaires selon la revendication 4, dans laquelle le ou les composés gras à point de fusion élevé sont inclus dans la composition pour soins capillaires à un taux de 0,1 % en poids à 20 % en poids, de préférence dans laquelle le ou les composés gras à point de fusion élevé sont inclus dans la composition pour soins capillaires à un taux de 1 % en poids à 15 % en poids.
  6. Composition pour soins capillaires selon l'une quelconque revendication précédente, comprenant en outre un composé de silicone, de préférence dans laquelle le composé de silicone est sélectionné dans le groupe constitué de silicones de diméthicone, silicone quaternium-26, aminosilicone terminale, et des combinaisons de celles-ci.
  7. Composition pour soins capillaires selon l'une quelconque revendication précédente, dans laquelle la composition pour soins capillaires est un conditionneur.
  8. Composition pour soins capillaires selon l'une quelconque revendication précédente, dans laquelle la composition pour soins capillaires est un traitement sans rinçage.
  9. Composition pour soins capillaires selon l'une quelconque revendication précédente, dans laquelle la composition pour soins capillaires est un conditionneur à rincer.
  10. Composition pour soins capillaires selon l'une quelconque revendication précédente, comprenant en outre un système d'agent tensioactif cationique.
  11. Composition pour soins capillaires selon la revendication 10, dans laquelle le système d'agent tensioactif cationique est sélectionné dans le groupe constitué de sel d'ammonium quaternisé de mono-alkyle long ; une combinaison de sel d'ammonium quaternisé de mono-alkyle long et de sel d'ammonium quaternisé de di-alkyle long ; un sel d'amidoamine de mono-alkyle long ; une combinaison de sel d'amidoamine de mono-alkyle long et de sel d'ammonium quaternisé de di-alkyle long, une combinaison de sel d'amidoamine de mono-alkyle long, de sel d'ammonium quaternisé de mono-alkyle long et des combinaisons de ceux-ci.
  12. Composition pour soins capillaires selon l'une quelconque revendication précédente, dans laquelle la composition comprend de 0,1 % en poids à 10 % en poids d'un système d'agent tensioactif cationique.
  13. Composition pour soins capillaires selon l'une quelconque revendication précédente, dans laquelle la composition comprend une matrice de gel.
EP20829510.5A 2019-12-10 2020-12-09 Composition de renforcement des cheveux Active EP4072684B1 (fr)

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US201962945959P 2019-12-10 2019-12-10
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US20210169760A1 (en) 2021-06-10
CN114786781A (zh) 2022-07-22
WO2021119660A1 (fr) 2021-06-17
JP7376719B2 (ja) 2023-11-08
CN114786781B (zh) 2024-07-19
MX2022005070A (es) 2022-05-18
US11883513B2 (en) 2024-01-30
EP4072684A1 (fr) 2022-10-19

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