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EP3856133A1 - Endommagement réduit des cheveux pendant la décoloration au moyen d'un agent complexant biodégradable - Google Patents

Endommagement réduit des cheveux pendant la décoloration au moyen d'un agent complexant biodégradable

Info

Publication number
EP3856133A1
EP3856133A1 EP19765429.6A EP19765429A EP3856133A1 EP 3856133 A1 EP3856133 A1 EP 3856133A1 EP 19765429 A EP19765429 A EP 19765429A EP 3856133 A1 EP3856133 A1 EP 3856133A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
agent
cosmetic
salt
weight
cosmetic agent
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP19765429.6A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Jing Hodes
Daniela Kessler-Becker
Bernhard Banowski
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP3856133A1 publication Critical patent/EP3856133A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/23—Sulfur; Selenium; Tellurium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/22—Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
    • A61K2800/4322—Direct dyes in preparations for temporarily coloring the hair further containing an oxidizing agent

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic agents for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent. Furthermore, the present invention relates to a multicomponent unit for the oxidative brightening of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the cosmetic agent according to the invention as the first component and an agent comprising H 2 O 2 as the second component. Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use of a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid in a cosmetic agent.
  • the change in hair color represents an important area of modern cosmetics.
  • the appearance of the hair can be adapted to current fashion trends as well as to the individual wishes of the individual.
  • decorative cosmetics especially bleaching or coloring hair cosmetics
  • bleaching and hair coloring systems are available to the consumer, which are extremely effective but can damage the hair and are being discussed with regard to environmental aspects.
  • the reactions that cause a bleaching or coloring effect have been known for a long time: the oxidizing agents contained in bleaching agents are able to lighten the hair fiber through the oxidative destruction of the hair's own dye melanin.
  • the use of hydrogen peroxide - if appropriate using ammonia or other alkalizing agents - as the oxidizing agent alone is sufficient; to achieve a stronger bleaching effect, a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and peroxodisulfate salts and / or peroxomonosulfate salts is usually used.
  • aqueous hydrogen peroxide solutions are unstable at the alkaline pH values required for the application, so that commercially available oxidative bleaching and dyeing products generally consist of at least two components.
  • the first component is an acidic oxidizing agent preparation with hydrogen peroxide, which is mixed with an alkaline second component shortly before use.
  • oxidation dyes are used for permanent dyeing, which are usually in two parts.
  • an alkaline preparation of so-called oxidation dye precursors (OFV) is used, which contains so-called developer components and coupler components, which form the actual dyes with each other under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide.
  • the second part of the oxidizing agent preparation which is often also referred to as developer, contains at least water and hydrogen peroxide and is acidified for reasons of stability.
  • the acidic oxidizer preparation is mixed with the alkaline first part shortly before use. This application mixture is applied to the hair, remains there for a short time and is then rinsed out. During this time, the oxidation dye precursors (OFV) react with one another under the influence of hydrogen peroxide to form oligomers, the desired hair color being formed.
  • the described processes for oxidative bleaching or lightening or for oxidative coloring attack the hair structure or destroy parts of the hair structure.
  • the users of the cosmetic products are unsure to what extent the mechanical resilience is reduced and the surface of the hair becomes rough, so that shine is prevented and the brittleness of the hair is increased.
  • the hair or components of the cosmetic compositions come into contact with water.
  • the water used contains a lot of calcium and magnesium ions and a small amount of copper and iron ions. To a small extent, too the slightest amount of copper or iron components may be present in the hair by washing the hair beforehand.
  • the metallic components can react with peroxides under alkaline conditions during an oxidative hair treatment and reactive oxygen species (ROS) can be formed. These ROS react with the hair proteins, which can lead to hair damage.
  • ROS reactive oxygen species
  • EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetate
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent , wherein the complexing agent is a salt of a poly-hydroxylated monocarboxylic acid with 7, 8 or 9 C atoms.
  • compositions according to the invention are used for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers.
  • oxidative treatment in
  • the cosmetic agent comprises an oxidizing agent which comprises a salt of a peroxo compound, preferably a persulfate or a percarbonate. If pure bleaching or lightening is to be carried out, the agents contain no further dyes. However, it may also be desirable to carry out a nuancing of the keratin fibers in addition to the bleaching / lightening.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can also contain coloring components such as direct dyes and / or oxidation dye precursors. However, the preferred use of the agents is bleaching or lightening.
  • Keratin fibers are wool, furs, feathers and in particular human hair.
  • the colorants according to the invention can also be used for dyeing other natural fibers, such as, for. As cotton, jute, sisal, linen or silk, modified natural fibers such as regenerated cellulose, nitro, alkyl or hydroxyalkyl or acetyl cellulose can be used.
  • the cosmetic agent contains an alkalizing agent which serves to adjust the alkaline pH of the cosmetic agent.
  • the cosmetic composition is composed such that the ready-to-use composition, which is obtained by mixing with water, has an alkaline pH.
  • the cosmetic agent contains an alkalizing agent.
  • cystine bridges in the keratin fiber are oxidatively broken down.
  • the disulfide groups of the cystine are cleaved oxidatively and converted into sulfonic acid units.
  • the different peptide strands linking cystine becomes two discrete, i.e. no longer bridged, oxidized cysteic acid units.
  • the use of the complexing agent comprising a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid with 7, 8 or 9 C atoms can reduce the damage to the hair.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention shows a lower cysteine content in the hair when using a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid with 7, 8 or 9 carbon atoms than is found when using the branded product "Fibreplex technique".
  • the lightening effect (L- Value, see examples) hardly changed by the use of the new formulation compared to the branded product "Fibreplex”.
  • the color difference between hair that has been treated with a cosmetic product according to the invention and hair that has been treated with the branded product is less than 2 (see examples), ie a difference that is usually not recognized by an untrained observer.
  • a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid is to be understood as meaning carboxylic acids which have a carboxylic acid function and have at least two OH groups.
  • the monocarboxylic acid preferably includes those which have an OH group on each non-carboxyl carbon.
  • the salt of glucoheptonic acid, the salt of a polyhydricoxypyric acid and / or the salt of a polyhydroxypelargonic acid are preferably used as complexing agents.
  • the advantage of polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acids is that the substances are easily biodegradable.
  • the counterions used are physiologically acceptable counterions.
  • the salts of the polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acids thus preferably comprise physiologically acceptable counterions.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cations or ammonium ions are thus preferably used as counterions of the carboxylates.
  • the salt of the polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid is a glucoheptonate with a physiologically acceptable counterion, most preferably the salt of the polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid is sodium glucoheptonate. This is accessible from natural sources.
  • the complexing agent used in the cosmetic agent according to the invention is a substitute for the ethylenediaminetetraacetate (EDTA) used in conventional agents. Thus, there are preferably no conventional complexing agents in the cosmetic agent, in particular no EDTA is contained in the cosmetic agent.
  • EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetate
  • the complexing agent in the cosmetic agent according to the invention is in an amount of 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 3 to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, contain. In these quantity ranges, the complexing agent is a powerful replacement for the conventional complexing agents.
  • the cosmetic agent contains one or more peroxo compounds, preferably a percarbonate and / or a persulfate.
  • the cosmetic agent comprises an inorganic peroxodisulfate salt.
  • the salts of the peroxove formations thus comprise percarbonates and / or per sulfates with an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation or an ammonium ion as counter ion.
  • the cosmetic agent comprises ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate. It has also proven to be advantageous if the cosmetic composition contains at least two persulfates from the group consisting of ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate and potassium persulfate. Therefore, the cosmetic agent more preferably contains a mixture of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate. It is very particularly preferred if the cosmetic agent according to the invention contains all three persulfates - ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate and potassium persulfate.
  • Ammonium peroxodisulfate is also alternatively referred to as ammonium persulfate and has the empirical formula (NE hSzOs. Ammonium persulfate has the CAS number 7727-54-0. Potassium peroxodisulfate is also alternatively referred to as potassium persulfate and has the empirical formula K2S2O8. Potassium persulfate has the CAS number 7727-21 -1.
  • sodium peroxodisulfate is alternatively used as sodium persulfate denotes and has the empirical formula Na 2 S 2 0 8 . Sodium persulfate has the CAS number 7775-27-1.
  • the persulphates are also preferably used in certain total amounts in the cosmetic composition according to the invention in order to optimize both the lightening performance and to minimize hair damage.
  • potassium peroxodisulfate is present in an amount of 20 to 50% by weight, preferably 25 to 40% by weight, more preferably 29 to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition Funds used.
  • the ammonium peroxodisulfate is present in an amount of 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 3 to 16% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product the cosmetic agent used.
  • the alkalizing agent is a hydroxide, carbonate, hydrogen carbonate, hydroxy carbonate, silicate or metasilicate of an alkali or alkaline earth metal or the corresponding ammonium salt.
  • the alkalizing agent is preferably an alkali or alkaline earth metal silicate, the preferred sodium silicate, potassium silicate or a mixture of sodium silicate and potassium silicate. More preferably, the alkalizing agent can be a hydrated sodium silicate. It is a water-soluble sodium silicate with a Na 2 0: Si0 2 molar ratio of 1: 2 to 1: 3, more preferably 1: 2.5 to 1: 2.8.
  • An inventively particularly suitable hydrated sodium silicate is commercially available under the name Britesil® ® C 265 (PQ Corporation).
  • the cosmetic agent contains the alkalizing agent in an amount of 25 to 50% by weight, preferably 30 to 45% by weight, further preferably 35 to 43% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent.
  • the cosmetic agent is preferably composed such that the ready-to-use cosmetic agent, which is obtained by mixing with water, has an alkaline pH Has value. If the cosmetic agent is intended to be used with a second component comprising H2O2 or comprising an developer component / coupler component, the ready-to-use cosmetic agent is obtained by mixing the cosmetic agent with the component comprising H2O2 or by combining the cosmetic agent with the developer - or coupler component is mixed.
  • the ready-to-use cosmetic agent preferably has a pH of 8 to 12, particularly preferably a pH of 8.5 to 11.5, most preferably a pH of 9 to 11, in each case measured at 20 ° C. For the measurement, the cosmetic agent is suspended in a double amount of water and the pH is measured with a commercially available pH meter at the specified temperature.
  • the cosmetic agent is in the form of a single component, which only has to be mixed with water to produce the ready-to-use cosmetic agent. Mixing with a second, separately packaged preparation can be omitted in this way.
  • hydrogen peroxide or “active oxygen”
  • the cosmetic agent itself is essentially water-free and contains thus less than 10.0% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight, even more preferably less than 2% by weight of water.
  • the water content can be determined by the raw materials used for the cosmetic product according to the invention, namely various raw materials can contain small amounts of water, for example if they are used in emulsion form, contain water of crystallization or water is present as a secondary component
  • the bleaching composition further contains a dispersing copolymer based on acrylates, the dispersing copolymer preferably comprising a copolymer comprising one or more acrylic acid or methacrylic acid units, the dispersing copolymer preferably Switzerlandter is a methacrylic acid / methyl (meth) acrylate copolymer or an acrylic acid / methyl (meth) acrylate copolymer.
  • a particularly preferred, commercially available product is Degalan RG S hv.
  • the cosmetic agent is to be converted into a ready-to-use agent by mixing it with water.
  • the cosmetic agent further contains a thickener.
  • the ready-to-use cosmetic agent preferably has a viscosity of 5 to 100 Pa-s, preferably 10 to 50 Pa-s, in particular 10 to 20 Pa-s and particularly preferably 10 to 16 Pa-s (Brookfield, 22 ° C., US spindle, 4 rpm).
  • Inorganic and organic substances are suitable as thickeners or gel formers.
  • thickeners should largely be present in the cosmetic as a free-flowing powder, on the other hand they should increase the viscosity of the ready-to-use cosmetic in a user-friendly area in the ready-to-use cosmetic as soon as possible after mixing with water.
  • the thickener is therefore preferably selected from the group consisting of a carboxymethyl cellulose, its Na salt and hydroxymethyl cellulose.
  • Carboxymethyl cellulose for example Cekol ® 50000 from CP Kelco (INCI: Cellulose Gum)
  • carboxy methyl cellulose with a methacrylic acid / methyl methacrylate copolymer (for example Rohagit ® S hv ex Evonik (INCI: Acrylates Copolymer) or a combination
  • a methacrylic acid / methyl methacrylate copolymer for example Rohagit ® S hv ex Evonik (INCI: Acrylates Copolymer) or a combination
  • the thickeners selected above or, in particular, the commercially available thickeners mentioned have proven most advantageous in this regard.
  • the thickener is preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.4 up to 5% by weight, most preferably from 1 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, in the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can contain further auxiliaries, additives and / or additives.
  • the cosmetic compositions can contain fillers.
  • a suitable filler is magnesium carbonate.
  • the cosmetic agents can contain auxiliaries which suppress the dust formation of the cosmetic agents. Coals are suitable in this regard.
  • a second subject of the invention is therefore a multicomponent unit for the oxidative brightening of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising as a first component a cosmetic agent according to the first subject of the invention and as second component an agent comprising H 2 O 2 .
  • the multi-component unit comprises at least two components.
  • the first component is the cosmetic agent according to the invention.
  • the second component is an agent containing H 2 O 2 .
  • the bleaching effect of the multicomponent unit according to the invention is higher than that of the cosmetic agent according to the invention when it is used as the only component.
  • the cosmetic agent is in the form of a single component, but a higher bleaching effect may be desired by the user.
  • the separation into two components serves the stability of H 2 O 2 with a high bleaching effect.
  • the multicomponent unit also has the advantage of using the polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acids.
  • a third subject matter of the invention is therefore a multicomponent unit for the oxidative dyeing of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the first component is a cosmetic agent according to the first aspect of the invention and the second component is an oxidation dye precursor, which is preferably selected from one or more developer components and optionally one or more coupler components.
  • the multi-component unit comprises at least two components.
  • the first component is the cosmetic agent according to the invention.
  • the second component is an agent containing an oxidation dye precursor.
  • This multi-component unit is advantageously suitable for dyeing the keratin fibers.
  • the cosmetic agent is in the form of a single component, but a color shade may be desired by the user.
  • the separation into two components serves the stability of components of the oxidation dye precursor.
  • the multicomponent unit also has the advantage of using the polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acids.
  • a fourth subject matter of the invention is therefore the use of a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid with 7, 8 or 9 C atoms, in particular the use of sodium glucoheptonate, as a complexing agent in one cosmetic products.
  • polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acids is particularly suitable as a complexing agent in a cosmetic agent since there is good biodegradability and since there is not a particularly great difference in the affinity for iron or copper ions compared to the affinity for magnesium or calcium ions.
  • the salts of the polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acids having 7, 8 or 9 carbon atoms are used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention or in a multi-component unit according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is more preferably one for oxidative purposes
  • Treatment of human hair preferably one for oxidative dyeing or one for oxidative lightening of human hair, or more preferably the multi-component unit according to the invention is one for the oxidative treatment of human hair, more preferably one for the oxidative dyeing or one for the oxidative lightening of human hair.
  • Cosmetic agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention comprise at least one of the following embodiments A) to J):
  • Cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent, the complexing agent being a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid which comprises a glucoheptonate with a physiologically acceptable counterion.
  • Cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent, the complexing agent being a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid which comprises a glucoheptonate with a physiologically acceptable counterion, the cosmetic is free from EDTA.
  • Cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent, the complexing agent being a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid which comprises a glucoheptonate with a physiologically acceptable counterion, the complexing agent in an amount of 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 3 to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, contained in the cosmetic agent.
  • Cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent, the salt of the peroxo compound being an inorganic peroxodisulfate salt, preferably ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate, more preferably is a mixture of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate, and wherein the complexing agent is a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid comprising a glucoheptonate with a physiologically acceptable counterion.
  • the salt of the peroxo compound being an inorganic peroxodisulfate salt, preferably ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate, more preferably is a mixture of potassium
  • Cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent, the salt of the peroxo compound being a mixture of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate in an amount of 20 to 50% by weight, preferably 25 to 40% by weight, more preferably 29 to 35% by weight, and the ammonium peroxodisulfate in an amount of 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 3 to 16% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, in which the cosmetic agent is contained, and wherein the complexing agent is a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid which comprises a glucoheptonate with a physiologically acceptable counterion, the complexing agent in an amount of 1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 2 to 8 w
  • Cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent, the salt of the peroxo compound being an inorganic peroxodisulfate salt, preferably ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate, more preferably one Mixture of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate, the alkalizing agent being a water-soluble sodium silicate with a molar ratio Na 2 0: Si0 2 of 1: 2 to 1: 3, more preferably 1: 2.5 to 1: 2.8, more preferred is a sodium or potassium disilicate, the complexing agent being a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid comprising a glucoheptonate with a physiologically acceptable counterion.
  • the salt of the peroxo compound being an inorgan
  • Cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent, the salt of the peroxo compound being a mixture of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate in an amount of 20 to 50% by weight %, preferably 25 to 40% by weight, more preferably 29 to 35% by weight, and the ammonium peroxodisulfate in an amount of 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 3 to 16% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15 %
  • the alkalizing agent being a water-soluble sodium silicate with a Na 2 0: Si0 2 molar ratio of 1: 2 to 1: 3, more preferably 1 : 2.5 to 1: 2.8, more preferably a sodium or potassium disilicate, which is present in an amount of
  • Cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent, the salt of
  • Peroxo compound a mixture of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate , wherein potassium peroxodisulfate in an amount of 20 to 50 wt .-%, preferably 25 to 40 wt .-%, more preferably 29 to 35 wt .-%, and the ammonium peroxodisulfate in an amount of 1 to 20 wt .-%, preferred 3 to 16% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, is contained in the cosmetic agent, the alkalizing agent being present in the cosmetic agent in an amount such that the pH
  • the value of the cosmetic agent is between 8 and 12, preferably between 8.5 and 11.5 and more preferably between 9 and 11, when the cosmetic agent is brought into its ready-to-use form, and the complexing agent is a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid, which comprises a glucoheptonate with a physiologically acceptable counterion
  • Cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent, at least one thickener and at least one complexing agent, the salt of the peroxo compound being an inorganic peroxodisulfate salt, preferably ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate , before is a mixture of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate, wherein the thickener is selected from the group consisting of a carboxymethyl cellulose, its Na salt and hydroxymethyl cellulose, and wherein the complexing agent is a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid, which is a glucoheptonate with a physiologically acceptable Counterion includes.
  • the salt of the peroxo compound being an inorganic peroxodisulfate salt, preferably ammonium pe
  • Cosmetic agent for the oxidative treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent, at least one thickener, at least one dispersing copolymer based on acrylates and at least one complexing agent, the salt being the
  • Peroxo compound an inorganic peroxodisulfate salt, preferably ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate, more preferably a mixture of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate, the thickener being selected from the group consisting of a carboxymethyl cellulose, its Na salt and hydroxymethyl cellulose, the dispersing copolymer being more preferably a methacrylic acid / methyl (meth) is acrylate copolymer or an acrylic acid / methyl (meth) acrylate copolymer, and wherein the complexing agent is a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid comprising a glucoheptonate with a physiologically acceptable counterion.
  • the complexing agent is a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid comprising a glucoheptonate with a physiologically acceptable counteri
  • the amounts add up to 100% by weight.
  • the cosmetic compositions of these embodiments may contain auxiliaries, additives and / or additives.
  • the cosmetic agents can contain fillers, so that the total amount adds up to 100% by weight.
  • the bleaching powder according to Example 1 above and a bleaching powder from the Fibreplex series were mixed in a ratio of 1: 2 with hydrogen peroxide (1 part by weight of bleaching powder with 2 parts by weight of hydrogen peroxide).
  • the ready-to-use bleaching agents obtained in this way were each applied to hair strands (Kerling euro-natur 7-0 from Fischbach & Miller, light brown) applied and left to act for 45 minutes. Then the hair strands were washed out with a commercially available shampoo and water.
  • Each strand of hair was measured colorimetrically before and after bleaching (spectrophotometer type Spectraflash 450 from X-right, type exact).
  • the color difference (DE value) was determined from the Lab values obtained during the measurements.
  • the DE value indicates the color difference that exists between the untreated and the treated strand of hair.
  • the larger the DE value the greater the color difference (ie the color difference) between the uncolored and the colored skin and the stronger the bleaching performance.
  • the color difference between hair with an inventive cosmetic agents (example 1) and hair treated with the branded product is less than 2, ie a difference that is usually not recognized by an untrained observer.
  • the cysteic acid content of keratin fibers or strands of hair can be determined using near infrared spectroscopy (NIR spectroscopy).
  • NIR spectroscopy allows the direct quantification of the cysteic acid content without changing or destroying the structure of the hair by analysis (see also Y. Miyamae et al. IFSCC Magazine, 9, 219 (2006) and Y. Miyamae et al ., Appl. Spectroscopy, 61, (2) 212 (2007)).
  • the hair is irradiated with infrared radiation (heat radiation in the near infrared range). In this way, not only the surface of the hair is analyzed, but the NIR radiation also penetrates the hair due to the small absorption cross section.
  • the radiation excites the hair components to vibrate, whereby the radiation of defined wavelengths is absorbed.
  • Cysteic acid leads to characteristic absorptions in the NIR spectrum.
  • the level of cysteic acid in the keratin fiber can be determined from the strength of these absorptions.
  • the individual hair fibers of shade 7/0 are attached between plastic clips and the diameters are determined at a room temperature of 23 ° C and a relative humidity of 50%.
  • the hair is placed for 60 minutes in water and then stretched at a constant rate of speed of 10 mm / min within the Hook 'rule area with an extension of 0-1.5%.
  • the modulus of elasticity is calculated.
  • the individual hair fibers are then treated oxidatively twice for 45 minutes with the addition of the test substances. 50 individual hair fibers are examined per test substance. After rinsing and drying, the hair is placed in water for another 60 minutes as described above and then subjected to tensile stretching. The modulus of elasticity is recalculated.
  • Fig. 1 shows the results of this measurement. After applying the products, the hair fibers were soaked in water for at least 1 hour. Thereafter, they were stretched to the breaking point at a constant speed of 10 mm / (i.e., the tension at the fiber breaking point was measured). The greater the breaking tension, the stronger the hair fibers. The results of the measurement are shown in Fig. 2.
  • Figure 2 shows the breaking stress measured using the composition containing sodium glucoheptonate (Dissolvine CSA) compared to the breaking stress measured using the FiberPlex composition.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne des agents cosmétiques pour le traitement par oxydation de fibres kératiniques, en particulier de cheveux, comprenant au moins un sel d'un composé peroxo, au moins un agent alcalinisant et au moins un agent complexant. La présente invention concerne en outre une unité à plusieurs constituants pour l'éclaircissement par oxydation de fibres kératiniques, en particulier de cheveux, comprenant comme premier constituant l'agent cosmétique selon l'invention et comme deuxième constituant un agent comprenant de l'H2O2. La présente invention concerne en outre l'utilisation d'un sel d'un acide monocarboxylique polyhydroxylé dans un agent cosmétique.
EP19765429.6A 2018-09-24 2019-09-02 Endommagement réduit des cheveux pendant la décoloration au moyen d'un agent complexant biodégradable Pending EP3856133A1 (fr)

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DE102018123454.6A DE102018123454A1 (de) 2018-09-24 2018-09-24 Reduzierte Haarschädigung während der Blondierung durch Einsatz von einem biologisch abbaubaren Komplexbildner
PCT/EP2019/073354 WO2020064270A1 (fr) 2018-09-24 2019-09-02 Endommagement réduit des cheveux pendant la décoloration au moyen d'un agent complexant biodégradable

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WO2020064270A1 (fr) 2018-09-24 2020-04-02 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Endommagement réduit des cheveux pendant la décoloration au moyen d'un agent complexant biodégradable

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DE102020207461A1 (de) * 2020-06-17 2021-12-23 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verdickte Alkalisierungskomponente für oxidatives Haaraufhellungsmittel
DE102020207463A1 (de) * 2020-06-17 2021-12-23 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verdickte Alkalisierungskomponente für oxidatives Haarfärbemittel
DE102023205102A1 (de) 2023-05-31 2024-12-05 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verfahren zum auswählen von substanzen zum schutz vor schäden an der haarstruktur und zur verwendung in haarkosmetischen mitteln

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DE102018123454A1 (de) 2020-03-26
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