EP3233042A1 - Moyens pour mettre temporairement en forme des fibres kératiniques avec un mélange de polymères traitants - Google Patents
Moyens pour mettre temporairement en forme des fibres kératiniques avec un mélange de polymères traitantsInfo
- Publication number
- EP3233042A1 EP3233042A1 EP15816410.3A EP15816410A EP3233042A1 EP 3233042 A1 EP3233042 A1 EP 3233042A1 EP 15816410 A EP15816410 A EP 15816410A EP 3233042 A1 EP3233042 A1 EP 3233042A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- polyquaternium
- copolymer
- cosmetic composition
- polymers
- composition according
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Ceased
Links
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 120
- 229920013750 conditioning polymer Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 49
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 title claims description 9
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 title abstract description 6
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 title abstract description 6
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 title abstract description 5
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 title description 20
- -1 poly(methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride) Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 72
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 67
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 54
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 53
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 47
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 40
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 244000007835 Cyamopsis tetragonoloba Species 0.000 claims abstract 2
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 98
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 41
- 229920000036 polyvinylpyrrolidone Polymers 0.000 claims description 19
- 235000013855 polyvinylpyrrolidone Nutrition 0.000 claims description 19
- WHNWPMSKXPGLAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-Vinyl-2-pyrrolidone Chemical compound C=CN1CCCC1=O WHNWPMSKXPGLAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 18
- 239000001267 polyvinylpyrrolidone Substances 0.000 claims description 18
- 229920005862 polyol Polymers 0.000 claims description 13
- 150000003077 polyols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 13
- RRHXZLALVWBDKH-UHFFFAOYSA-M trimethyl-[2-(2-methylprop-2-enoyloxy)ethyl]azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CC(=C)C(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C RRHXZLALVWBDKH-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 13
- 230000014759 maintenance of location Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000003093 cationic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 29
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 27
- 229940008099 dimethicone Drugs 0.000 description 26
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 description 26
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 26
- 239000000178 monomer Substances 0.000 description 23
- 244000303965 Cyamopsis psoralioides Species 0.000 description 21
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 19
- 150000003254 radicals Chemical class 0.000 description 18
- 125000004079 stearyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 15
- 229940048053 acrylate Drugs 0.000 description 13
- 150000001252 acrylic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 13
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 13
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- 125000003438 dodecyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 12
- 125000001421 myristyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 12
- 125000000913 palmityl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 12
- 125000002511 behenyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 10
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M Chloride anion Chemical compound [Cl-] VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 9
- AKWFJQNBHYVIPY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethanol Chemical compound OCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCO AKWFJQNBHYVIPY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- MXRGSJAOLKBZLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-ethenylazepan-2-one Chemical compound C=CC1CCCCNC1=O MXRGSJAOLKBZLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 229920006322 acrylamide copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 8
- WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N adipic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 125000001204 arachidyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 8
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 8
- KFYRJJBUHYILSO-YFKPBYRVSA-N (2s)-2-amino-3-dimethylarsanylsulfanyl-3-methylbutanoic acid Chemical compound C[As](C)SC(C)(C)[C@@H](N)C(O)=O KFYRJJBUHYILSO-YFKPBYRVSA-N 0.000 description 7
- HRPVXLWXLXDGHG-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acrylamide Chemical compound NC(=O)C=C HRPVXLWXLXDGHG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 150000001450 anions Chemical class 0.000 description 7
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 description 7
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 7
- 235000010980 cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 7
- 229920002432 poly(vinyl methyl ether) polymer Polymers 0.000 description 7
- 229920001661 Chitosan Polymers 0.000 description 6
- PPBRXRYQALVLMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Styrene Chemical compound C=CC1=CC=CC=C1 PPBRXRYQALVLMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 125000002704 decyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 6
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 6
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 6
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 6
- QLAJNZSPVITUCQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,3,2-dioxathietane 2,2-dioxide Chemical compound O=S1(=O)OCO1 QLAJNZSPVITUCQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl)ethanamine Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(C)C=C1CCN SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Propenoic acid Natural products OC(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 description 5
- 150000001805 chlorine compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- 229920006037 cross link polymer Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 150000004820 halides Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- 229920001519 homopolymer Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 125000002347 octyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 5
- PLFFHJWXOGYWPR-HEDMGYOXSA-N (4r)-4-[(3r,3as,5ar,5br,7as,11as,11br,13ar,13bs)-5a,5b,8,8,11a,13b-hexamethyl-1,2,3,3a,4,5,6,7,7a,9,10,11,11b,12,13,13a-hexadecahydrocyclopenta[a]chrysen-3-yl]pentan-1-ol Chemical compound C([C@]1(C)[C@H]2CC[C@H]34)CCC(C)(C)[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(C)[C@]4(C)CC[C@@H]1[C@]3(C)CC[C@@H]1[C@@H](CCCO)C PLFFHJWXOGYWPR-HEDMGYOXSA-N 0.000 description 4
- SNRUBQQJIBEYMU-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dodecane Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCC SNRUBQQJIBEYMU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- XTXRWKRVRITETP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Vinyl acetate Chemical compound CC(=O)OC=C XTXRWKRVRITETP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 235000011037 adipic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 239000001361 adipic acid Substances 0.000 description 4
- 125000001124 arachidoyl group Chemical group O=C([*])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 4
- 125000003074 decanoyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C(*)=O 0.000 description 4
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 4
- 229930182478 glucoside Natural products 0.000 description 4
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 description 4
- QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N isophthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC(C(O)=O)=C1 QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 125000001117 oleyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])/C([H])=C([H])\C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 4
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 4
- 229920001282 polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 239000005017 polysaccharide Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 4
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 20:1omega9c fatty acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bromide Chemical compound [Br-] CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- 229920008712 Copo Polymers 0.000 description 3
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N D-Glucitol Natural products OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N 0.000 description 3
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N D-glucitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 description 3
- UFHFLCQGNIYNRP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen Chemical compound [H][H] UFHFLCQGNIYNRP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Oleic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 125000005250 alkyl acrylate group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 125000000484 butyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 3
- 239000013065 commercial product Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 3
- 150000004676 glycans Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 125000003187 heptyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 3
- 239000001257 hydrogen Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229910052739 hydrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 3
- QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N isooleic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 230000005923 long-lasting effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-UHFFFAOYSA-N meso ribitol Natural products OCC(O)C(O)C(O)CO HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- OMNKZBIFPJNNIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-(2-methyl-4-oxopentan-2-yl)prop-2-enamide Chemical compound CC(=O)CC(C)(C)NC(=O)C=C OMNKZBIFPJNNIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 description 3
- 235000021317 phosphate Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 229940083542 sodium Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 235000015424 sodium Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 description 3
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229940095064 tartrate Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 125000000391 vinyl group Chemical class [H]C([*])=C([H])[H] 0.000 description 3
- 229920002554 vinyl polymer Polymers 0.000 description 3
- WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N (E)-8-Octadecenoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCC(O)=O WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecanoic acid Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- HZAXFHJVJLSVMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Aminoethan-1-ol Chemical compound NCCO HZAXFHJVJLSVMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- PUAQLLVFLMYYJJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-aminopropiophenone Chemical compound CC(N)C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 PUAQLLVFLMYYJJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 9-Heptadecensaeure Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 101150035093 AMPD gene Proteins 0.000 description 2
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acrylate Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Atomic nitrogen Chemical compound N#N IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-K Citrate Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)CC(O)(CC([O-])=O)C([O-])=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 2
- SNPLKNRPJHDVJA-ZETCQYMHSA-N D-panthenol Chemical compound OCC(C)(C)[C@@H](O)C(=O)NCCCO SNPLKNRPJHDVJA-ZETCQYMHSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 description 2
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- IMROMDMJAWUWLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethenol Chemical compound OC=C IMROMDMJAWUWLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- KRHYYFGTRYWZRS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Fluoride anion Chemical compound [F-] KRHYYFGTRYWZRS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- 239000004354 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920000663 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 2
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 description 2
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-L L-tartrate(2-) Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)C([O-])=O FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-L 0.000 description 2
- CERQOIWHTDAKMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Methacrylic acid Chemical compound CC(=C)C(O)=O CERQOIWHTDAKMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000005642 Oleic acid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920000688 Poly[(2-ethyldimethylammonioethyl methacrylate ethyl sulfate)-co-(1-vinylpyrrolidone)] Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 229920000691 Poly[bis(2-chloroethyl) ether-alt-1,3-bis[3-(dimethylamino)propyl]urea] Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 229920000289 Polyquaternium Polymers 0.000 description 2
- KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Terephthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=C(C(O)=O)C=C1 KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- NJSSICCENMLTKO-HRCBOCMUSA-N [(1r,2s,4r,5r)-3-hydroxy-4-(4-methylphenyl)sulfonyloxy-6,8-dioxabicyclo[3.2.1]octan-2-yl] 4-methylbenzenesulfonate Chemical compound C1=CC(C)=CC=C1S(=O)(=O)O[C@H]1C(O)[C@@H](OS(=O)(=O)C=2C=CC(C)=CC=2)[C@@H]2OC[C@H]1O2 NJSSICCENMLTKO-HRCBOCMUSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O ammonium group Chemical group [NH4+] QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 2
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- 235000010290 biphenyl Nutrition 0.000 description 2
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- 239000007795 chemical reaction product Substances 0.000 description 2
- GHVNFZFCNZKVNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N decanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(O)=O GHVNFZFCNZKVNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- YIOJGTBNHQAVBO-UHFFFAOYSA-N dimethyl-bis(prop-2-enyl)azanium Chemical class C=CC[N+](C)(C)CC=C YIOJGTBNHQAVBO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000004815 dispersion polymer Substances 0.000 description 2
- UKMSUNONTOPOIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O UKMSUNONTOPOIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-MDZDMXLPSA-N elaidic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C\CCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-MDZDMXLPSA-N 0.000 description 2
- JBKVHLHDHHXQEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N epsilon-caprolactam Chemical compound O=C1CCCCCN1 JBKVHLHDHHXQEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- UYMKPFRHYYNDTL-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethenamine Chemical group NC=C UYMKPFRHYYNDTL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- ZQXSMRAEXCEDJD-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-ethenylformamide Chemical compound C=CNC=O ZQXSMRAEXCEDJD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 125000001997 phenyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(*)C([H])=C1[H] 0.000 description 1
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- 239000000419 plant extract Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001495 poly(sodium acrylate) polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
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- 229920000058 polyacrylate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001707 polybutylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000120 polyethyl acrylate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 229940078492 ppg-17 Drugs 0.000 description 1
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- 238000000926 separation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 description 1
- ZLGIYFNHBLSMPS-ATJNOEHPSA-N shellac Chemical compound OCCCCCC(O)C(O)CCCCCCCC(O)=O.C1C23[C@H](C(O)=O)CCC2[C@](C)(CO)[C@@H]1C(C(O)=O)=C[C@@H]3O ZLGIYFNHBLSMPS-ATJNOEHPSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 229940047670 sodium acrylate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000020712 soy bean extract Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003381 stabilizer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000001424 substituent group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 238000006467 substitution reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-L sulfite Chemical class [O-]S([O-])=O LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-M sulfonate Chemical compound [O-]S(=O)=O BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 230000008961 swelling Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920001059 synthetic polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229960003080 taurine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-L terephthalate(2-) Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)C1=CC=C(C([O-])=O)C=C1 KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 125000000999 tert-butyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C(*)(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC[14C](O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000000383 tetramethylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([*:1])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[*:2] 0.000 description 1
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- JOXIMZWYDAKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-N toluene-4-sulfonic acid Chemical compound CC1=CC=C(S(O)(=O)=O)C=C1 JOXIMZWYDAKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AQWHMKSIVLSRNY-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-Octadec-5-ensaeure Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCC=CCCCC(O)=O AQWHMKSIVLSRNY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- KHPCPRHQVVSZAH-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-cinnamyl beta-D-glucopyranoside Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1OCC=CC1=CC=CC=C1 KHPCPRHQVVSZAH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000002834 transmittance Methods 0.000 description 1
- ITMCEJHCFYSIIV-UHFFFAOYSA-M triflate Chemical compound [O-]S(=O)(=O)C(F)(F)F ITMCEJHCFYSIIV-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- FAGMGMRSURYROS-UHFFFAOYSA-M trihexadecyl(methyl)azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC FAGMGMRSURYROS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- OEIXGLMQZVLOQX-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[3-(prop-2-enoylamino)propyl]azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].C[N+](C)(C)CCCNC(=O)C=C OEIXGLMQZVLOQX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GETQZCLCWQTVFV-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethylamine Chemical group CN(C)C GETQZCLCWQTVFV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003722 vitamin derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000811 xylitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010447 xylitol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-SCDXWVJYSA-N xylitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO HEBKCHPVOIAQTA-SCDXWVJYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
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Definitions
- the application relates to the technical field of temporary deformation keratin braver fibers, especially human hair.
- Styling agents for the deformation of keratin-containing fibers have long been known and find use in various embodiments for the construction, for refreshing and for fixing hairstyles, which can be obtained in many hair types only using firming agents. Both hair treatment products, which serve a permanent, as well as those that serve a temporary shaping of the hair, play an important role.
- the temporary shaping keratin braver fibers are sprayable products as well as supply forms, which are incorporated with the help of a comb or with your fingers in the hairstyle.
- the latter product group includes oils as well as gels, creams and powders.
- Frizzy hair is one of the biggest problems that occurs when the hair is exposed to higher humidity. This problem is more likely to occur in people with curls and leads to what is colloquially referred to as "bad hair day". In such a case, the hair loses its natural shape and / or curl retention.
- curly hair does not reflect so much light, which makes them less shiny than usual.
- EP1741470 B1 describes a composition for improving the gloss, the hair stylability, the curl retention and the curl separation of curly hair.
- This composition contains a film-forming polymer, a polyol in an amount of more than 5% by weight and polyacryloyldimethyltaurate and / or its salts.
- the object of the present invention was therefore to provide transparent hair treatment compositions for the temporary shaping of curly hair, which give the hair a long-lasting, curly appearance, high volume, high gloss and easy manageability.
- a long-lasting, curly appearance is characterized by a high curl retention and / or high curl bounce and / or high curl definition. The latter means that in a strand of hair, the curls can be clearly identified.
- a first subject of the present application are transparent cosmetic compositions containing - based on their total weight - a) 0, 1 to 30 wt .-% of a mixture of at least two conditioning polymers, wherein a conditioning polymer is selected from the group consisting of cationic guar Compounds, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) and mixtures thereof, b) 0.01 to 25% by weight of a polyether-modified polysiloxane,
- the composition is in the form of a gel, which is preferably applied directly by hand or a comb, in the form of a viscous lotion, cream or paste, in the form of a wax, in the form of a sprayable liquid which is sprayed with a mechanical device, or in the form of a foamable liquid which is foamed before use.
- the compositions are in the form of a gel.
- Corresponding hair treatment agents are referred to as hair sprays, hair gel, hair wax, hair foam, hair setting or hair lotion.
- Preferred cosmetic compositions are hair gels.
- the viscosity of the compositions is preferably between 70,000 and 600,000 mPas, preferably between 100,000 and 400,000 mPas (20 ° C., DV 2T "Brookfield" rotational viscometer, spindle TE, 5 revolutions per minute and Helipath).
- clear transparent compositions are understood as meaning compositions that appear clear on the palm of the hand with the naked eye (hand-clear). These compositions have a transmittance value of> 93% for a transmission measurement at 600 nm and room temperature.
- a first essential ingredient of the cosmetic composition is a mixture of at least two conditioning polymers.
- a conditioning polymer is necessarily selected from the group consisting of cationic guar compounds, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) and mixtures thereof.
- Conditioning polymers are polymers which are absorbed by the hair and have a conditioning effect there.
- conditioning polymers In order to improve the build-up behavior, conditioning polymers generally have cationic charges and are correspondingly cationic or amphoteric polymers.
- Guar is a polysaccharide derived from the seeds of guar bean.
- Cationic guar compounds are mostly quaternized guar compounds obtained by reaction of the polysaccharide with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxides.
- Suitable cationic guar compounds are sold under the trade name Jaguar ® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Further particularly suitable cationic guar connections also from Hercules under the name N-Hance ® are commercially available. Other cationic guar compounds are sold by BASF SE under the name Cosmedia® ®. A preferred cationic guar compound is the commercial product AquaCat ® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar compound.
- Poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride), which may also be crosslinked, is a homopolymer which is also known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.
- Such products are, for example, under the names Cosmedia® ® CTH or Cosmedia® ® Ultragel® 300 (BASF SE) or Synthalen® ® CR (3V Group) commercially available.
- the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion.
- a nonaqueous polymer dispersion Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 and Salcare ® SC 96 in the trade. Also suitable is a polymer dispersion sold under the name Cosmedia® Triple C (ex BASF SE).
- the further conditioning polymers may be homo- or copolymers or polymers based on natural or synthetic polymers.
- the conditioning polymers can be cationic or amphoteric.
- the conditioning polymers contain quaternary nitrogen groups contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers.
- Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers having cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, for example alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts.
- the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
- the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
- Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl esters, for example vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups are.
- R -H or -Ch
- R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl
- Polymers are preferred those for which at least one of the following conditions applies: R represents a methyl group, R 2 , R 3 and R 4 stand for methyl groups, m has the value 2.
- Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X " include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ion. Preference is given to methosulfates and halide ions, in particular chloride.
- Suitable cationic, conditioning polymers are, for example, copolymers of the formula (Copo).
- Q is from 3 to 55,000, preferably from 10 to 25,000, more preferably from 50 to 15,000, more preferably from 100 to 10,000, even more preferably from 500 to 8,000 and in particular from 1000 to 5000, x is (0 to 0 , 5) Q, preferably for (0 to 0.3) Q and in particular for the values 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, wherein the value 0 is preferred,
- y stands for (0.1 to 0.95) Q, preferably for (0.5 to 0.7) Q and in particular for values of 1 to 24000, preferably of 5 to 15000, particularly preferably of 10 to 10000 and in particular of 100 to 4800
- z stands for (0.001 to 0.5) Q, preferably for (0, 1 to 0.5) Q and in particular for values from 1 to 12500, preferably from 2 to 8000, particularly preferably from 3 to 4000 and especially from 5 to 2000.
- compositions are preferred, in which the copolymer has a molecular weight of 10000 and 20 million gmol, preferably from 100,000 to 10 million gmol "1, more preferably from 500,000 to 5 million gmol" and in particular from 1, 1 million to 2.2 million gmol -1 .
- a most preferred copolymer, constructed as previously shown, is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-74.
- Suitable cationic conditioning polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose or starch. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives.
- Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula G-O-B-N + R a RbRc A "
- G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;
- B is a divalent linking group, for example, alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene;
- R a , Rb and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R a , Rb and R c is preferably at most 20;
- a " is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.
- Cationic, ie quaternized celluloses are available on the market with varying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights.
- Polyquaternium-67 is commercially available under the names SoftCat® Polymer SL or SoftCat® Polymer SK (Dow).
- cationic celluloses are, UCARE® Polymer JR 400 (Dow, INCI name Polyquaternium-10) and polymer Quatrisoft ® LM-200 (Dow, INCI name Polyquaternium-24).
- Other commercial products are the compounds Celquat ® H 100 and Celquat ® L 200th
- a suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ®.
- a preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ® PC by Amerchol, USA.
- Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ® CMF, Hydagen® ® HCMF and Chitolam ® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.
- Another group of excellent cationic conditioning polymers are glucose-based polymers.
- the following figure shows such a cationic alkyl oligoglucoside.
- the radicals R independently of one another are a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 -C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical R selected from: lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, Oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl.
- the radicals R 1 independently of one another are a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical selected from: butyl, capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, Myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl. More preferably, the radicals R1 are the same.
- the radicals R1 are selected from technical mixtures of the fatty alcohol cuts of C6 / C8 fatty alcohols, C8 / C10 fatty alcohols, C10 / C12 fatty alcohols, C12 / C14 fatty alcohols, C12 / C18 fatty alcohols, and most preferred are those technical Fatty alcohol cuts of plant origin.
- the counterion to the cationic charge is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example, halide, methosulfate, phosphate, citrate, tartrate, etc.
- the counterion is a halide, such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or methosulfate.
- the anion is chloride.
- cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are the compounds having the INCI names Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-78, Polyquaternium-79, Polyquaternium-80, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82. Most preferred are the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides designated Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82.
- Such compounds can be obtained, for example, under the name Poly Suga® Quat from the company Colonial Chemical Inc.
- Another preferred cationic conditioning polymer can be obtained based on ethanolamine.
- the polymer is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-71. Cl Cl Cl
- This polymer can be obtained, for example, under the name Cola® Moist 300 P from Colonial Chemical Inc.
- a cationic alkyl oligoglucoside as shown in the following figure.
- the radical R 2 is a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 -C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical R selected from: lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, Behenyl or arachidyl.
- the radical R 1 is a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R 1 is a radical selected from: butyl, capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, myristyl, Cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl.
- the radical R1 is selected from technical mixtures of the fatty alcohol cuts of C6 / C8 fatty alcohols, C8 / C10 fatty alcohols, C10 / C12 fatty alcohols, C12 / C14 fatty alcohols, C12 / C18 fatty alcohols, and most preferred are those technical Fatty alcohol cuts of plant origin.
- the subscript n represents a number between 1 and 20, preferably between 1 and 10, more preferably between 1 and 5 and most preferably between 1 and 3.
- the counterion to the cationic charge, A ⁇ is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halide, methosulfate , Phosphate, citrate, tartrate, etc.
- the counterion is a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or methosulfate.
- the anion is chloride.
- Particularly preferred examples of the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are the compounds having the INCI names laurdimonium hydroxypropyl decylglucosides chlorides, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl lauryl glucosides chlorides, stearyl dimonium hydroxypropyl decyl glucosides chlorides, stearyl dimonium hydroxypropyl lauryl glucosides chlorides, stearyl dimonium hydroxypropyl lauryl glucosides chlorides or cocoglucosides hydroxypropyl trimonium chlorides.
- Such compounds can be obtained, for example, under the name Suga® Quat from the company Colonial Chemical Inc.
- Another preferred cationic, conditioning polymer comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (II), at least one structural unit of the formula (III) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV),
- R and R 4 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
- X 1 and X 2 independently of one another represent an oxygen atom or a group NH
- a and A 2 independently of one another represent a group ethane-1,2-diyl, propane 1, 3-diyl or butane-1, 4-diyl,
- R 2 , R 3 , R 5 and R 6 independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C 4) -alkyl group
- R 7 is a (Cs to C30) alkyl group.
- physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
- physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
- (O to C4) -alkyl groups according to the invention are methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl.
- Examples of (Cs to C30) alkyl groups according to the invention are octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl), docosyl (behenyl) ,
- Subsequent cationic conditioning polymers can be used in the compositions when the conditioning polymers of formulas (I) to (IV) above meet one or more of the following characteristics:
- R and R 4 each represent a methyl group
- X 1 stands for a group NH
- X 2 stands for a group NH
- a and A 2 are each independently ethane-1, 2-diyl or propane-1, 3-diyl,
- R 2 , R 3 , R 5 and R 6 independently of one another represent methyl or ethyl, (particularly preferably methyl),
- R 7 is a (C 10 to C 24) alkyl group, in particular decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl).
- the structural unit of the formula (IV) is selected, to consist of at least one structural unit of the formulas (IV-1) to (IV-8)
- each R 7 is a (Cs to C3o) alkyl group.
- particularly preferred structural unit of the formula (IV) are the structural units of the formula (IV-7) and / or the formula (IV-8), wherein in each case R 7 is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl ), Tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl).
- the structural unit of the formula (IV-8) represents a very particularly preferred structural unit of the formula (IV).
- a very particularly preferably cationic, conditioning polymer contained in the composition comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (II), at least one structural unit of the formula (III-8) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV- 8th),
- R 7 is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl).
- An especially preferred cationic, conditioning polymer is the copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69), which for example, under the trade name AquaStyle ® 300 (28-32 wt .-% of active substance in ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350000) is sold by the company ISP.
- AquaStyle ® 300 28-32 wt .-% of active substance in ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350000
- cationic, conditioning polymers are, for example
- honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
- Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 and FC 905 and HM 552,
- Vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers such as those with acrylic acid esters and acrylic acid amides as a third monomer unit commercially available, for example, under the name Aquaflex ® SF 40.
- Suitable amphoteric conditioning polymers are those in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers:
- R and R 2 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z denotes an NH group or an oxygen atom, n denotes an integer of 2 to 5 and A () is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
- R 6 and R 7 are independently an (O to C4) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and
- R 8 -CH CR 9 -COOH (mono 3)
- R 8 and R 9 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
- acrylic acid is preferably used as the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned.
- amphoteric, conditioning polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (monol) or (mono 2) with the monomer (mono 3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (mono 2) and (mono 3).
- Very particularly preferably used amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI designation Polyquaternium-22, inter alia, with the trade name Merquat ® 280 (ex Lubrizol).
- amphoteric conditioning polymers may be in addition to a monomer
- Very particularly preferably usable amphoteric conditioning polymers based on a comonomer are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are ® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 sold (ex Lubrizol).
- amphoteric conditioning polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide.
- the polymers described so far represent only a part of the usable conditioning polymers.
- the INCI declarations of the preferred polymers are given in summary.
- the preferred polymers bear the INCI name: Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-1 1, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-41, Polyquaternium-42, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium- 46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-68, Polyquaternium-69,
- Polyquaternium-1 1, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-72 or a mixture of two or three of said polymers as conditioning polymer in combination with a cationic guar compound and / or poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) in the cosmetic are particularly preferred Compositions used.
- Polyquaternium-1 1 is the reaction product of diethyl sulfate with a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate. Suitable commercial products are available, for example, under the names Dehyquart® CC 1 1 and Luviquat® PQ 1 1 PN from BASF SE or Gafquat 440, Gafquat 734, Gafquat 755 or Gafquat 755N from Ashland Inc. Polyquaternium-1 1 is preferably used in an amount of 1 to 10 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It is most preferred that polyquaternium-11 be used in combination with a cationic guar compound.
- Polyquaternium-46 is the reaction product of vinylcaprolactam and vinylpyrrolidone with methylvinylimidazolium methosulfate and is available, for example, under the name Luviquat® Hold from BASF SE. Polyquaternium-46 is preferably used in an amount of 1 to 5 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It is most preferred that Polyquaternium-46 be used in combination with a cationic guar compound. It is even more preferred that Polyquaternium-46 be used in combination with a cationic guar compound and Polyquaternium-11.
- a particularly preferred cationic, conditioning polymer is Polyquaternium 72.
- Polyquaternium-72 is a special cellulose. This cellulose is a hydroxyethyl cellulose which has been quaternized.
- Polyquaternium-72 is a trimonium and cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution. The use of for example the commercial product Mirustyle CP ® of the company. Croda is preferred.
- Polyquaternium-72 is preferably included in the cosmetic compositions in an amount of at least 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions.
- Polyquaternium-72 is preferably used in an amount of 1 to 10 wt .-% - based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It is most preferred that Polyquaternium-72 be used in combination with poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride).
- the total amount of conditioning polymers is preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight and more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight.
- the cosmetic composition contains - based on its total weight - 0.01 to 25 wt .-% of at least one polyether-modified polysiloxane.
- a content of 0, 1 to 15 wt .-% of polyether-modified polysiloxanes in the cosmetic compositions is preferred, a content of 0.2 to 10 wt .-% is particularly preferred and a content of 1 to 5 wt .-% is particularly preferred.
- Suitable polyether-modified polysiloxanes are preferably compounds of the following formula (I) in which the radicals R 1 and R 3 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 30 C atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 30 C atoms or an optionally substituted phenyl group,
- R2 is the group -CcH2c-0- (C2H40-) a (C3H 6 0-) Br5 represents
- the radical R5 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms
- n a number from 0-500
- p represents a number from 1 to 50
- a represents a number from 0 to 50
- b represents a number from 0 to 50
- a + b are at least 1, and
- c represents a number from 1 to 4.
- Particularly preferred polyether-modified polysiloxane compounds of the general structural formula (I) are:
- Methyl -CCH 2 c-0- (C2H 4 0) a (C3H 6 0) b-R5 is H, methyl 5-500 7-50 7-15 0 3
- Particularly preferred polyether-modified polysiloxane compounds of the general structural formula (I) are:
- Polyether-modified polysiloxane compounds listed in the aforementioned Tables 1-3 are commercially available, for example, under the trade names
- compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one polyether-modified polysiloxane compound of the formula (I) which satisfies the conditions of line 2 (Tables 1-3) (for example Dow Corning 193 (INCI: PEG-12 Dimethicone)) ,
- compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one polyether-modified polysiloxane compound according to formula (I), which satisfies the conditions of line 2 in Tables 1 and 2 and line 3 in Table 3 (for example ABIL® B 8843 (INCI: PEG-14 Dimethicone)).
- polyether-modified polysiloxane compound according to formula (I) which satisfies the conditions of line 2 in Tables 1 and 2 and line 3 in Table 3 (for example ABIL® B 8843 (INCI: PEG-14 Dimethicone)).
- polyether-modified polysiloxane compound instead of, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes leads to transparent cosmetic compositions.
- the cosmetic composition contains, based on its total weight, a film-forming polymer.
- the cosmetic composition may also contain several film-forming polymers.
- Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the hair during drying. Under film-forming polymers continue to be understood as those polymers which are when used in 0.01 to 20 wt .-% aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution in a position to deposit on the hair a transparent polymer film.
- film-forming polymers are permanently as well as temporarily cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers.
- the film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.
- Suitable preferably used synthetic film-forming polymers are homopolymers or copolymers which are composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, C 1 to C 7 -alkylacrylamide, O to Cz Dialkylacrylamide, Ci to Cz alkylmethacrylamide, Ci to C7 dialkylmethacrylamide, Ci to Cz alkyl acrylate, acrylic acid, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, wherein the Ci to C7 alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably Ci to C3 alkyl groups.
- Examples include homopolymers of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide.
- Further suitable synthetic film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are, for example, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, vinylpyrrolidone and styrene or terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides.
- Suitable natural film-forming polymers are, for example, cellulose derivatives, for example hydroxypropyl cellulose having a molecular weight of from 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol.
- the film-forming polymer is a nonionic, film-forming polymer. It is particularly preferred that the cosmetic compositions contain polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and / or a vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymer as a film-forming polymer. Suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are obtainable, for example, under the name Luviskol® K from BASF SE.
- vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymers very particular preference is given to using a styrene / VP copolymer and / or a vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer and / or a VP / DMAPA acrylate copolymer and / or a VP / vinylcaprolactam / DMAPA acrylate copolymer in the cosmetic compositions ,
- Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers are sold under the name Luviskol® VA by BASF SE.
- a VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylate copolymer is sold under the trade name Aquaflex® SF-40 by Ashland Inc.
- a VP / DMAPA acrylate copolymer is marketed by Ashland under the name Styleze CC-10 and is a most preferred vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymer.
- the cosmetic composition contains polyvinylpyrrolidone and VP / DMAPA acrylate copolymer as the film-forming polymer.
- the cosmetic compositions preferably contain the film-forming polymer in amounts of up to 15.0% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 10.0% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of between 1 and 7.5% by weight, based in each case on her total weight.
- Suitable ingredients include surfactants, fatty substances, waxes, protein hydrolysates, amino acids, oligopetids, vitamins, provitamins, vitamin precursors, betaines, biochinones, purines (derivatives), taurine (derivatives), plant extracts, silicones, ester oils, UV light protection filters, structuring agents, thickeners, Electrolytes, pH modifiers, swelling agents, dyes, antidandruff agents, chelating agents, opacifiers, pearlescers, pigments, stabilizers, propellants, antioxidants, perfume oils and / or preservatives.
- the cosmetic agents preferably further contain at least one member selected from the group consisting of anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic, cationic surfactants or mixtures thereof. Preference is given to using solid emulsifiers at room temperature (20 ° C.), in particular solid nonionic emulsifiers at room temperature (20 ° C.).
- nonionic emulsifiers are the fatty acid partial glycerides, which are understood as meaning monoglycerides, diglycerides and technical mixtures thereof. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
- oleic acid monoglycerides are used.
- Another group of preferred emulsifiers are the surface-active, medium-chain fatty alcohols, in particular cetyl alcohol and steacetate
- quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides.
- the long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as in cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, and tricetylmethylammonium chloride.
- Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
- the additional surfactants are in the compositions preferably in an amount of 0.01% by weight to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0, 1 wt .-% to 2.5 wt .-%. each based on the weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic compositions may additionally contain an organic polyol.
- Preferred compositions contain the organic polyol based on their total weight in amounts of 0.5 to 60, preferably 1, 0 to 50 wt .-% and in particular 1, 5 to 25 wt .-%.
- the polyol can be used as a single substance or in the form of polyol mixtures.
- Preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that they contain less than four, preferably one to three, but in particular only one or two polyol (s).
- Polyols from the group of glycerol, 1,2-ethanediol, polyethylene glycols with MW> 400, propanediol, butanediol, in particular 1,3-butanediol, are particularly suitable for the preparation of cosmetic compositions.
- Hexanediol in particular 1,6-hexanediol, sorbitol, threitol, erythritol, arabitol, altritol, ribitol, xylitol, galactitol, mannitol, iditol and panthenol.
- Particularly suitable organic polyols are glycerol, sorbitol and panthenol.
- Preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that they contain as organic polyol at least one polyol from the group of glycerol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and hexanediol, preferably glycerol and / or propylene glycol.
- the addition of a polyol can improve the properties of the cosmetic compositions during storage and application and has advantageous cosmetic effects.
- the proportion by weight of a polyol in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions can vary within wide ranges. In high polyol cosmetic compositions, a smaller amount of water is preferably added to the compositions in the balance.
- the water content of the cosmetic compositions is preferably at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 40% by weight and especially preferably between 50 and 90% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- a conditioning polymer is selected from the group consisting of cationic guar compounds and poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniumchlorid),
- a conditioning polymer is selected from the group consisting of cationic guar compounds and poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniumchlorid),
- a film-forming polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), a vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymer and mixtures thereof, and
- a film-forming polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), a vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymer and mixtures thereof, and
- Highly preferred hair treatment agents are characterized as follows:
- a second subject of this application is the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for the temporary deformation of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair.
- Human hair is most preferably curly human hair.
- a third subject of this application is the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for improving at least one of the following properties of curled hair:
- the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be used in a process for the temporary deformation of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, in which the keratinic fibers are acted upon by a cosmetic composition and temporarily fixed in their form.
- the human hair is the highest prefers curly human hair.
- the cosmetic composition is applied to a shampooed and towel-dry hair and the hair is then air-dried or dried with heat, for example an electric hair dryer, a curling iron or a heat hood, optionally with the aid of deforming agents such as curlers or papillots.
- compositions applies mutatis mutandis.
- composition of some preferred cosmetic compositions A to E can be found in the following table (data in% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, unless stated otherwise).
- the formulations A to E are transparent compositions with pleasant sensory properties. Thus, when applied by hand, they leave neither there nor on the treated, wet hair, a slippery / glibberiges feeling.
- the formulations A to E thus provide treated hairs with easy stylability, high gloss, healthy appearance and - if curls are present - a long-lasting, curly appearance without sticking to the hair or making it stiff.
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Abstract
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| DE102014226410.3A DE102014226410A1 (de) | 2014-12-18 | 2014-12-18 | Mittel zur temporären Verformung keratinhaltiger Fasern mit einer Mischung aus konditionierendenPolymeren |
| PCT/EP2015/079483 WO2016096671A1 (fr) | 2014-12-18 | 2015-12-11 | Moyens pour mettre temporairement en forme des fibres kératiniques avec un mélange de polymères traitants |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| EP3233042A1 true EP3233042A1 (fr) | 2017-10-25 |
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ID=55024089
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP15816410.3A Ceased EP3233042A1 (fr) | 2014-12-18 | 2015-12-11 | Moyens pour mettre temporairement en forme des fibres kératiniques avec un mélange de polymères traitants |
Country Status (4)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| US (1) | US20170273893A1 (fr) |
| EP (1) | EP3233042A1 (fr) |
| DE (1) | DE102014226410A1 (fr) |
| WO (1) | WO2016096671A1 (fr) |
Families Citing this family (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE102016203231A1 (de) * | 2016-02-29 | 2017-08-31 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Mittel zur temporären Verformung keratinhaltiger Fasern mit einer Polymermischung |
| FR3064477B1 (fr) * | 2017-03-31 | 2020-10-23 | Oreal | Procede de traitement cosmetique des fibres keratiniques comprenant l'application d'une composition de base et d'une composition comprenant une silicone aminee |
| FR3064475B1 (fr) | 2017-03-31 | 2020-10-23 | Oreal | Procede de traitement cosmetique des fibres keratiniques comprenant l'application d'une composition de base et d'une composition comprenant un polyol |
| FR3064476B1 (fr) * | 2017-03-31 | 2020-10-23 | Oreal | Procede de traitement cosmetique des fibres keratiniques comprenant l'application d'une composition de base et d'une composition comprenant un tensioactif cationique |
| DE102018222047A1 (de) * | 2018-12-18 | 2020-06-18 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Zusammensetzung und Verfahren zur temporären Verformung keratinhaltiger Fasern |
| DE102018222051A1 (de) * | 2018-12-18 | 2020-06-18 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Zusammensetzung und Verfahren zur temporären Verformung keratinhaltiger Fasern |
| DE102018222041A1 (de) * | 2018-12-18 | 2020-06-18 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Zusammensetzung und Verfahren zur temporären Verformung keratinhaltiger Fasern |
| DE102018222037A1 (de) * | 2018-12-18 | 2020-06-18 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Zusammensetzung und Verfahren zur temporären Verformung keratinhaltiger Fasern |
Family Cites Families (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US20040241130A1 (en) * | 2002-09-13 | 2004-12-02 | Krishnan Tamareselvy | Multi-purpose polymers, methods and compositions |
| EP1549282A1 (fr) * | 2002-10-10 | 2005-07-06 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Composition apres-shampoing contenant un polymere epaississant et un agent de surface cationique |
| DE10322059A1 (de) * | 2003-05-15 | 2004-12-02 | Hans Schwarzkopf & Henkel Gmbh & Co. Kg | Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Styling-Eigenschaften |
| EP1741470B2 (fr) | 2005-06-14 | 2016-07-13 | Kao Germany GmbH | Composition cosmétique |
| EP1893300A2 (fr) * | 2005-06-24 | 2008-03-05 | The Procter and Gamble Company | Composition de conditionnement transparente ou translucide emballee dans un recipient transparent et/ou translucide |
| DE102012214046A1 (de) * | 2012-08-08 | 2014-02-13 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Einphasiges transparentes Haargel |
-
2014
- 2014-12-18 DE DE102014226410.3A patent/DE102014226410A1/de not_active Withdrawn
-
2015
- 2015-12-11 EP EP15816410.3A patent/EP3233042A1/fr not_active Ceased
- 2015-12-11 WO PCT/EP2015/079483 patent/WO2016096671A1/fr not_active Ceased
-
2017
- 2017-06-14 US US15/622,413 patent/US20170273893A1/en not_active Abandoned
Non-Patent Citations (2)
| Title |
|---|
| None * |
| See also references of WO2016096671A1 * |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| DE102014226410A1 (de) | 2016-06-23 |
| WO2016096671A1 (fr) | 2016-06-23 |
| US20170273893A1 (en) | 2017-09-28 |
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