EP2991734A1

EP2991734A1 - Hair care shampoo

Info

Publication number: EP2991734A1
Application number: EP14702064.8A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Thomas Schröder; Dirk Hentrich; Marine WASSEN
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2013-05-02
Filing date: 2014-02-03
Publication date: 2016-03-09
Also published as: WO2014177292A1; DE102013208055A1; CN105163808A; US20160045417A1

Abstract

Cleaning cosmetic composition which contains, in a cosmetic carrier, a) at least one anionic surfactant (A), b) at least one amphoteric surfactant (B), c) at least one C₂-C₄ mono- and/or dialkanolamide (C) of at least one C₈-C₂₄ carboxylic acid, d) at least one native oil (D), and e) at least one cationic polysaccharide (E), characterized in that i) the weight ratio of the anionic surfactant (A) to alkanolamide (C) is 15:1 to 7:1; and ii) the weight ratio of the amphoteric surfactant (B) to alkanolamide (C) is 12:1 to 5:1.

Description

"Care shampoo"

The invention relates to a cleansing cosmetic composition which contains in a cosmetic carrier in addition to a specific surfactant mixture of anionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant and fatty acid mono- and / or dialkanolamide further at least one native oil and a cationic polysaccharide. Such a composition is suitable, for example, as a hair shampoo for cleaning the hair.

Cosmetic cleaners, such as hair shampoos, are based on conventional anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic and / or cationic surfactants, with predominantly anionic surfactants, optionally in the blend with small amounts of cosurfactants, being typically used because of their excellent cleaning and foaming power , Corresponding commercial shampoos cleanse the hair and eliminate sebum and / or residues of styling agents as well as other contaminants from the hair surface and the scalp.

During the cleaning, however, lipids and proteins are also removed from the hair and scalp, as a result of which damage to the hair structure and dehydration of the scalp can occur, in particular with frequent cleaning. In order to overcome these disadvantages, surfactants which are mild and well tolerated on the hair and the scalp have therefore been used in hair cleaners in recent years.

Although mild surfactants are known per se, they do not yet satisfy all consumer requirements to a sufficient extent. It has been found, for example, that some formulations based on mild surfactants can not always be prepared in the desired texture. To obtain the desired texture, i. In order to achieve the desired "creamy" flow behavior and a higher viscosity of the agents, extensive formulation work is often required and the long-term stability of these agents is often unsatisfactory Furthermore, mild surfactants are often not foamy and reduce the amount of foam and the foam quality (creaminess and fine-poredness of the foam The incorporation of care ingredients in hair cleanser can enhance this effect.

In addition to cleaning, it is above all the perception of the hair after cleaning in the wet and dry state that determines the satisfaction of a consumer with a cosmetic hair-cleanser. Decisive in the perception is the feeling of care, which can be described in particular by the grip, the combability, the shine and the suppleness of the hair. Furthermore, the hair should not appear heavy or electrostatically charged. Therefore, there is still a need for active ingredients or active ingredient combinations for cosmetic cleaning preparations with good care properties, an advantageous rheology profile and good foam properties.

It was an object of the present application to provide mild, skin and hair compatible and nourishing hair cleansing compositions having improved texture and foam quality. It has now been found that this object can be achieved by a specific surfactant mixture in combination with special care agents. The corresponding cleaning agents are skin and hair compatible, care for and cleanse the hair and can be easily spread on the hair due to their beneficial rheological properties, and form in conjunction with water a creamy, fine-pored foam.

A first subject of the invention is therefore a cleansing cosmetic composition comprising in a cosmetic carrier

a) at least one anionic surfactant (A),

b) at least one amphoteric surfactant (B),

c) at least one C ₂ -C ₄ mono- and / or dialkanolamide (C) of at least one C ₈ -C ₂ -carboxylic acid,

d) at least one native oil (D),

e) at least one cationic polysaccharide (E),

characterized in that

i) the weight ratio of anionic surfactant (A) to alkanolamide (C) is 15: 1 to 7: 1; and

ii) the weight ratio of amphoteric surfactant (B) to alkanolamide (C) is 12: 1 to 5: 1.

To solve the technical problem described above, it has proved to be particularly advantageous if the weight ratio of anionic surfactant (A) to alkanolamide (C) in the cleaning cosmetic compositions 13: 1 to 9: 1, preferably 12: 1 to 10: 1 is. For the same reason, it is preferred that the weight ratio of amphoteric surfactant (B) to alkanolamide (C) in the cleansing cosmetic compositions is 10: 1 to 6: 1, preferably 9: 1 to 7: 1.

The cleansing cosmetics of the invention contain as the first essential ingredient at least one anionic surfactant (A), preferably only comparatively small amounts are used. It is preferable that the weight proportion of the anionic surfactant (A) in the total weight of the composition is 4.0 to 7.0% by weight, preferably 5.0 to 6.0% by weight. Suitable anionic surfactants (A) which may be used in the compositions of the invention include:

linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula R-0- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ 0) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16 .

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and / or dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,

Alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,

- Alkyl sulfate and / or Alkylpolyglykolethersulfatsalze of the formula R- (OCH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _x -OS0 ₃ ^" X ⁺ , in which R is a preferably linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, x = 0 or 1 to 12 and X is an alkali or ammonium ion,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula

O

R- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) -OP-OR ²

OX

in the R preferred for an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n R or X, n is from 0 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represents a C 1 -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical.

Preferred anionic surfactants are ether carboxylic acids of the abovementioned formula, acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and / or dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and / or alkyl sulfate and / or Alkylpolyglykolethersulfatsalze the aforementioned formula. Particularly preferred anionic surfactants are straight-chain or branched alkyl ether sulfates which contain an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular 10 to 16 C atoms and 1 to 6 and in particular 2 to 4 ethylene oxide units. Further particularly preferred anionic surfactants are straight-chain or branched alkyl sulfonates which contain an alkyl radical having 8 to 18 and in particular 10 to 16 carbon atoms. Particular preference is given to the sodium, magnesium and / or triethanolamine salts of linear or branched lauryl, tridecyl and / or myristyl sulfates which have a degree of ethoxylation of from 2 to 4.

Very particularly preferred cosmetics according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one anionic surfactant (A) from the group of alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) n-O-S0 ₃ X, in which R is preferably a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, n is 0 or 1 to 12 and X is an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal or triethanolamine, with anionic surfactants having the INCI name Sodium Lauryl Sulfate are particularly preferred.

As a second essential ingredient, the cosmetics of the invention contain at least one amphoteric surfactant (B). Amphoteric surfactants are the agents according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in amounts of 1, 0 to 12 wt .-%, more preferably from 2.0 to 10 wt .-% and in particular from 3.0 to 6.0 wt. -% added.

Suitable amphoteric surfactants may be selected from compounds of the following formulas (i) to (v) in which the radical R is in each case a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

(I)

(Iii)

(Iv)

(V)

Particularly suitable amphoteric surfactants are alkylamidoalkylbetaines and / or alkylampho (di) acetates of the abovementioned formulas (i) to (v). Particularly suitable amphoteric surfactants include the surfactants cocamidopropyl betaine and disodium cocoamphodiacetate known under the INCI name. Particularly preferred cosmetics according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amphoteric surfactant (B) from the group of the general formula (iii), particular preference being given to amphoteric surfactants having the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

The third essential component of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is the alkanolamide (C). Preferred compositions contain the alkanolamide (C) in amounts of from 0.025 to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Preferred alkanolamides (C) are the C ₂ -C ₄ mono- and / or dialkanolamides of at least one C ₈ -C ₂₄ -carboxylic acid. According to the invention, particularly preferred C ₂ -C ₄ mono- and / or dialkanolamides are ethanol and / or isopropanolamides of C ₈ -C ₂ 4-carboxylic acids, derived from coconut fatty acids, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid representatives, , are very particularly preferred. C ₂ -C ₄ mono- and / or dialkanolamides which are particularly preferred according to the invention are cocamides MEA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MIPA, lauramide MEA, lauramide DEA, lauramide MIPA, palmitoylamide MEA, palmitoylamide DEA, stearamide MEA according to the INCI nomenclature and stearamide DEA. In summary, preference is given to compositions according to the invention which contain at least one alkanolamide (C) from the group of mono- and / or diethanolamides and / or mono- and / or diisopropanolamides of a C ₈ -C ₂ -4-fatty acid, where the fatty acid (s) Coconut fatty acids, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and / or stearic acid are (are) and wherein alkanolamides (C) with the INCI name cocamide MEA are particularly preferred.

As a fourth essential ingredient, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one native oil. The proportion by weight of the native oil (D) in the total weight of the composition is preferably 0.01 to 0.3 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 0.1 wt .-%. As native or natural (vegetable) oils preferably triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides are used. Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grapeseed oil, Amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and shea butter. Particular preference is given to compositions according to the invention which contain jojoba oil as the native oil (D). The native oil (D) is present in the cosmetic composition preferably in dispersed form, wherein the droplet size of the dispersed oil is 0, 1 to 5 μιη, preferably 0.5 to 3 μιη.

A final essential constituent of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is the cationic polysaccharide (E), whose weight fraction in the total weight of the composition is preferably 0.05 to 1.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 0.5% by weight.

Cationic polysaccharides (E) preferred according to the invention are (E)

quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^® ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives

hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, for example those sold under the trade name SOFTCAT ^® cationic polymers,

cationic alkyl polyglycosides,

cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,

cationic guar derivatives, in particular those sold under the tradename Cosmedia Guar ^® and Jaguar ^® products, In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions further comprise at least one cationic quaternized cellulose polymer and / or a cationic guar derivative mentioned above. (- or Celquat ^® polymers Polymer JR ^®) quaternized cellulosic polymers, which are known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-10 are preferred.

Particularly preferred cationic polysaccharides (E) are the cationic hydroxyalkyl guar derivatives, preferably cationic hydroxyethyltrimethylammonium guar and / or cationic hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar with average molecular weights between 800,000 and 1,600,000 daltons. Particularly preferred are the cationic guar polymers having a weight average molecular weight of between 800,000 and 1,600,000 daltons, known by the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltnonium Chloride. The cationic charge density of these guar polymers is preferably at least 0.5 meq / g, preferably at least 0.6 meq / g and in particular at least 0.8 meq / g. Their nitrogen content is preferably in the range of 1, 1 to 1, 6 wt .-% (based on their total weight). In summary, preference is given to cosmetic compositions according to the invention which contain as cationic polysaccharide (E) a cationic guar derivative.

A composition particularly advantageous in terms of its cosmetic effect contains in a cosmetic carrier and based on its total weight

a) 4.0 to 7.0 wt .-% of anionic surfactant (A) with the INCI name Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, b) 3.0 to 6.0 wt .-% amphoteric surfactant (B) with the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine , c) 0.3 to 1, 0% by weight of dialkanolamide (C) with the INCI name Cocamide MEA,

d) from 0.01 to 0.3% by weight of native oil (D),

e) 0.05 to 1.0% by weight of cationic polysaccharide (E),

characterized in that

i) the weight ratio of anionic surfactant (A) to alkanolamide (C) is 13: 1 to 9: 1; and ii) the weight ratio of amphoteric surfactant (B) to alkanolamide (C) is 10: 1 to 6: 1.

The compositions according to the invention comprise components a) to f) in a cosmetic carrier, which may preferably be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic. Preferably, the cosmetic carrier contains at least 40 wt .-%, preferably 60 to 95 wt .-% and in particular 75 to 90 wt .-% water.

Furthermore, the cosmetic carrier may contain at least one alcohol, which may be selected from ethanol, ethyl diglycol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1, 2-butanediol , 1,3-butanediol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1, hexanol, 2-hexanol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, sorbitol, benzyl alcohol . Phenoxyethanol or mixtures of these alcohols. Preference is given to the water-soluble alcohols. Particularly preferred are ethanol, ethyl diglycol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, glycerol, benzyl alcohol and / or phenoxyethanol and mixtures of these alcohols.

In addition to the aforementioned active substances and excipients, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also contain a number of further ingredients which give them advantageous properties. Among the preferred optional agents which may be used in the compositions of the invention include:

nonionic surfactants and / or nonionic emulsifiers which are present in the cosmetic compositions (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 5% by weight and in particular 0, 5 to 3 wt .-% can be used,

further oil, wax and / or fat components which in the cosmetic compositions (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 15 wt.% And in particular of 0, 1 - 10 wt.% Can be used,

Antidandruff active ingredients, which in the cosmetic compositions (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.025 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.075 to 3 wt. -% can be used.

Examples of suitable nonionic surfactants / emulsifiers include

C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide

glycerin,

Amine oxides,

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group .

Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,

fatty acid,

Addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty amines and / or

Alkylpolyglucosides.

Particularly suitable nonionic surfactants are alkyl oligoglucosides, especially alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated _C12 / i4 coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 -3 as For example, under the INCI name "coco-glucosides" are commercially available, and fatty acid alkanolamides, in particular C ₈ -C ₂ 4 fatty acid (di) ethanolamides.

Further preferred nonionic surfactants are the C ₈ -C ₃ o-fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerol. Particularly preferred are the Ci ₀ - Ci ₆ -Fettsäuremono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide to glycerol. Especially preferred is the PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate known under the INCI name. Preferred compositions are characterized by additionally containing an ethoxylated nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 12 to 18.

Suitable oil and / or fat components may preferably be selected from mineral, natural and synthetic oil components and / or fatty substances.

As mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons. An example of a usable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S). As Olkomponente can also serve a dialkyl ether. Useful dialkyl ethers are in particular di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl n-octyl ether. Particularly preferred is the di-n-octyl ether, which is commercially available under the name Cetiol ^® OE.

Suitable synthetic oils are silicone compounds.

Silicones have excellent conditioning properties on the hair. In particular, they cause better combability of the hair in the wet and dry state and in many cases have a positive effect on the hair and the softness of the hair.

It is therefore desirable to use silicones in the cosmetic compositions. Suitable silicones (other than silicones a) may be selected from:

(i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;

(ii) Polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from:

a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups;

b) (per) fluorinated groups;

c) thiol groups;

d) carboxylate groups; e) hydroxylated groups;

f) alkoxylated groups;

g) acyloxyalkyl groups;

h) amphoteric groups;

i) bisulfite groups;

j) hydroxyacylamino groups;

k) carboxy groups;

I) sulfonic acid groups; and

m) sulphate or thiosulphate groups;

(iii) linear polysiloxane (A) - polyoxyalkylene (B) - block copolymers of the type (AB) _n with n>3;

(iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;

(v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer that does not contain silicone is grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends ;

(vi) or mixtures thereof.

As a synthetic oil, in particular the polydimethylsiloxanes are. The group of polydimethylsiloxanes includes the linear and the non-linear, preferably cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes. Polydimethylsiloxanes (D) preferred according to the invention are selected from the linear polydimethylsiloxanes having a kinematic viscosity (25 ° C.) above 8000 est, preferably above 10000 est. The polydimethylsiloxane (D) is preferably present in the cosmetic composition in dispersed form, wherein the droplet size of the dispersed polydimethylsiloxane is less than 10 μιη, preferably less than 4 μιη.

Fatty substances are to be understood fatty acids, fatty alcohols and natural and synthetic waxes, which may be present both in solid form and liquid in aqueous dispersion. The fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, Palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic, elaeostearic, arachidic, gadoleic, behenic and erucic acids and their technical mixtures.

Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂ 2- and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C 22 -carbon atoms. For example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucalcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, as well as their guerbet alcohols can be used , this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^®, ^® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention.

As natural or synthetic waxes there may be used solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

Other fatty substances are, for example

Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, nolic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.

Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol , Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24) stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprinatV caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl

Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2) ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,

symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols,

Glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

ethoxylated or non ethoxylated mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90-018 ^®, ^® Monomuls 90-L12, Cetiol ^® HE or Cutina ^® MD.

Suitable antidandruff active ingredients may be selected from Piroctone olamine, climbazole, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, tar preparations, undecenoic acid derivatives, burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow seed extracts, rosemary extracts and / or arnica extracts. Preferred are climbazole, zinc pyrithione and piroctone olamine.

Other optional components that can be used in the compositions of the invention include, for example

Vitamins, vitamin derivatives and / or vitamin precursors,

Plant extracts and / or

Humectant. Suitable vitamins are preferably the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives:

Vitamin A: the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate into consideration.

Vitamin B: belong to the vitamin B group or to the vitamin B complex u. a.

• Vitamin B-ι (thiamine)

• Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

• Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.

• Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Within this group the panthenol is preferred. Useful derivatives of panthenol are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, as well as cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.

• Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol).

Vitamin F: the term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H: Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.

Particularly preferred are nicotinic acid amide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol.

Vitamins, vitamin derivatives and / or vitamin precursors may be present in the compositions (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 5% by weight. % are used.

Suitable plant extracts are extracts that can be made from any part of a plant. Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant. Particularly suitable are the extracts from Green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, lychee, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, Orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, scallop, coltsfoot, marshmallow, ginseng, ginger root, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea, Boerhavia diffusa roots, Foeniculum vulgaris and Apim graveolens.

Particularly preferred for use in the compositions of the invention are the extracts of green tea, stinging nettle, witch hazel, chamomile, aloe vera, ginseng, echinacea purpurea, olea europea and / or Boerhavia diffusa roots.

As extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

The plant extracts may in the compositions according to the invention (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.1 to 5 % By weight.

Suitable humectants or penetrants and / or swelling agents which can be added to the cleaning agents according to the invention are, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and derivatives thereof, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, Glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2- Hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.

The humectants may in the compositions according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0, 1 to 3 wt .-% are used. Further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives which can be used in the hair cleansing compositions according to the invention are, for example:

- UV filters,

Thickening agents such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. B. polyvinyl alcohol, the Ca, Mg or Zn soaps,

Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,

Dyes for staining the agent,

Substances for adjusting the pH, for example α- and β-hydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid,

Active ingredients such as bisabolol,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

Ceramides. Ceramides are understood as meaning N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogs of such lipids (so-called pseudo-ceramides),

Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, C0 ₂ and air,

antioxidants

Pearlescing agents such as EGDS or PEG-3 distearates,

Preservatives, such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid,

Viscosity regulators such as salts (NaCl).

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably have pH values in the range from 2 to 7, preferably from 3 to 6 and in particular from 4.5 to 5.5.

The frame formulas of some preferred compositions according to the invention can be found in the following tables (data in% by weight based on the total weight of the compositions, unless stated otherwise).

The weight ratio of anionic surfactant (A) to alkanolamide (C) in these frame formulations is 15: 1 to 7: 1 unless otherwise specified, while the weight ratio of amphoteric surfactant (B) to alkanolamide (C) is 12: 1 to 5 : 1 is.

Formula 1 Formula 2 Formula 3 Formula 4 Formula 5 Anionic surfactant (A) 4.0 to 7.0 4.0 to 7.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0 Amphoteric surfactant (B) 1, 0 to 12 2.0 to 10 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0 Dialkanolamide (C) 0.2 to 1.0 O 0.2 to 1.0 O.2 to 1.0 O 0.2 to 0.8 0.2 to 0.8 Native Oil (D) 0.01 to 0, 5 0.01 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.2 0.05 to 0.1 cat. Polysaccharide (E) 0.05 to 2.0 0.1 to 2.0 0 , 1 to 2.0 0, 1 to 1, 0 0.2 to 0.5 Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 6 Formula 7 Formula 8 Formula 9 Formula 10

Sodium Lauryl Sulfates 4.0 to 7.0 4.0 to 7.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0

Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1, 0 to 12 2.0 to 10 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0

Dialkanolamide (C) 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 0.8 0.2 to 0.8

Native oil (D) 0.01 to 0.5 0.01 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.2 0.05 to 0.1

Cat. Polysaccharide (E) 0.05 to 2.0 0.1 to 2.0 0.1 to 2.0 0, 1 to 1, 0 0.2 to 0.5

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 1 1 Formula 12 Formula 13 Formula 14 Formula 15

Anionic surfactant (A) 4.0 to 7.0 4.0 to 7.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0

Amphoteric surfactant (B) 1, 0 to 12 2.0 to 10 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0

Cocamide MEA 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 0.8 0.2 to 0.8

Native oil (D) 0.01 to 0.5 0.01 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.2 0.05 to 0.1

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 16 Formula 17 Formula 18 Formula 19 Formula 20

Sodium Lauryl Sulfates 4.0 to 7.0 4.0 to 7.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0

Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1, 0 to 12 2.0 to 10 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0

Cocamide MEA 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 0.8 0.2 to 0.8

Native oil (D) 0.01 to 0.5 0.01 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.2 0.05 to 0.1

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 21 Formula 22 Formula 23 Formula 24 Formula 25

Sodium Lauryl Sulfates 4.0 to 7.0 4.0 to 7.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1, 0 to 12 2.0 to 10 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0 Dialkanolamide (C) 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 0.8 0.2 to 0.8 Native Oil (D) 0.01 to 0.5 0.01 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.2 0.05 to 0.1 Guar hydroxypropyl 0.05 to 2.0 0.1 to 2.0 0.1 to 2.0 0, 1 to 1, 0 0.2 to 0.5 trimonium chloride Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 26 Formula 27 Formula 28 Formula 29 Formula 30

Anionic surfactant (A) 4.0 to 7.0 4.0 to 7.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0 Amphoteric surfactant (B) 1, 0 to 12 2.0 to 10 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0 Cocamide MEA 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0 , 2 to 0.8 0.2 to 0.8 Native Oil (D) 0.01 to 0.5 0.01 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.2 0.05 to 0.1 guar hydroxypropyl 0.05 to 2.0 0.1 to 2.0 0.1 to 2.0 0, 1 to 1, 0 0.2 to 0.5 trimonium chloride

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 31 Formula 32 Formula 33 Formula 34 Formula 35

Sodium Lauryl Sulfates 4.0 to 7.0 4.0 to 7.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0

Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1, 0 to 12 2.0 to 10 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0

Cocamide MEA 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 0.8 0.2 to 0.8

Native oil (D) 0.01 to 0.5 0.01 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.2 0.05 to 0.1

Guar hydroxypropyl 0.05 to 2.0 0.1 to 2.0 0.1 to 2.0 0, 1 to 1, 0 0.2 to 0.5 trimonium chloride

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

The weight ratio of anionic surfactant (A) to alkanolamide (C) in the frame formulas formula 36 to formula 70 is 13: 1 to 9: 1, while the weight ratio of amphoteric surfactant (B) to alkanolamide (C) is 10: 1 to 6: 1 amounts to.

Formula 36 Formula 37 Formula 38 Formula 39 Formula 40

Anionic surfactant (A) 4.0 to 7.0 4.0 to 7.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0

Amphoteric surfactant (B) 1, 0 to 12 2.0 to 10 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0

Dialkanolamide (C) 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 0.8 0.2 to 0.8

Native oil (D) 0.01 to 0.5 0.01 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.2 0.05 to 0.1

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 41 Formula 42 Formula 43 Formula 44 Formula 45

Sodium Lauryl Sulfates 4.0 to 7.0 4.0 to 7.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0

Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1, 0 to 12 2.0 to 10 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0

Dialkanolamide (C) 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 0.8 0.2 to 0.8

Native oil (D) 0.01 to 0.5 0.01 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.2 0.05 to 0.1 Cat. Polysaccharide (E) 0.05 to 2.0 0.1 to 2.0 0.1 to 2.0 0, 1 to 1, 0 0.2 to 0.5 Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 46 Formula 47 Formula 48 Formula 49 Formula 50

Anionic surfactant (A) 4.0 to 7.0 4.0 to 7.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0

Amphoteric surfactant (B) 1, 0 to 12 2.0 to 10 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0

Cocamide MEA 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 0.8 0.2 to 0.8

Native oil (D) 0.01 to 0.5 0.01 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.2 0.05 to 0.1

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 51 Formula 52 Formula 53 Formula 54 Formula 55

Sodium Lauryl Sulfates 4.0 to 7.0 4.0 to 7.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0

Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1, 0 to 12 2.0 to 10 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0

Cocamide MEA 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 0.8 0.2 to 0.8

Native oil (D) 0.01 to 0.5 0.01 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.2 0.05 to 0.1

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 56 Formula 57 Formula 58 Formula 59 Formula 60

Sodium Lauryl Sulfates 4.0 to 7.0 4.0 to 7.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1, 0 to 12 2.0 to 10 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0 Dialkanolamide (C) 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 0.8 0.2 to 0.8 Native Oil (D) 0.01 to 0.5 0.01 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.2 0.05 to 0.1 Guar hydroxypropyl 0.05 to 2.0 0.1 to 2.0 0.1 to 2.0 0, 1 to 1, 0 0.2 to 0.5 trimonium chloride

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

Formula 61 Formula 62 Formula 63 Formula 64 Formula 65

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 66 Formula 67 Formula 68 Formula 69 Formula 70

Sodium Lauryl Sulfates 4.0 to 7.0 4.0 to 7.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0 5.0 to 6.0 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1, 0 to 12 2.0 to 10 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0 3.0 to 6.0 Cocamide MEA 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 1.0, 0.2 to 0, 8 0.2 to 0.8 Native Oil (D) 0.01 to 0.5 0.01 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.3 0.05 to 0.2 0.05 to 0.1 Guar hydroxypropyl - 0.05 to 2.0 0.1 to 2.0 0.1 to 2.0 0, 1 to 1, 0 0.2 to 0.5 trimonium chloride

Mise add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

As stated above, the cleaning agents according to the invention have excellent properties in the application to the hair. In addition to cleaning, they give the treated hair better visual and tactile properties. Treated dry hair (especially damaged hair) has an improved hair grip and improved combability. Treated wet hair (especially damaged hair) have less or no knots and can be easily untangled. Another advantage of the cleaning agents according to the invention is that they support the resistance of the hair surface to physical and / or chemical hair damage.

Another object of the present application is a method for hair treatment, characterized in that a cleaning composition according to the invention is applied to the wet hair and rinsed after a contact time of 30 seconds to 5 minutes with water.

Another object of the invention is the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for improving the feel and combability of wet and dry hair and to improve the resistance of the hair surface against physical and / or chemical damage to the hair.

Examples:

1) Preparation of Inventive Shampoos:

I II

Sodium Laureth Sulfate 5.60 5.60

Cocamidopropyl Betaine 4.0 4.0 Cocamide MEA 0.45 0.9

Dimethicone, Laureth-4, Laureth-23 0.5

Coconut glycerides +7.3 EO 0.3 0.3

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Jaguar * ⁵ "C-17 0.2

Polyquaternium-10 0.1

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0, 1 0.1

Jojoba Seed Oil 0.01 0.01

Perfume, preservative q.s. q.s.

Citric acid (to pH 4.9 to 5.1) 0.2 0.2

NaCl (to viscosity 6,000 to 9,000 [Brookfield 20, 15, 0.15

RM / 20 ° C] +/- 1000 mPas)

Water ad 100 ad 100

2) Assessment of shampoos:

2.1 Assessment of wet combability a) Hair strands / measuring device: Hair strands of the company Kerling International (Backnang, Germany) were used: European natural hair 7/0; lot # 04/2010; N74; Length: 12 cm; Weight: 1 +/- 0.05g. Measuring instrument: Hercules Sägemann (Hamburg, Germany) and hard rubber comb, finely toothed b) Treatment of the hair strands and measurement: The hair strands were first pre-damaged by bleaching twice and then stored at 25 ° C and 25% humidity for 48 hours. 0.25 g of the respective shampoo was applied per g of hair strand. After 2 minutes, the hair tresses were rinsed with water (32 ° C, 0.5 l / min) for 18 seconds while being automatically combed. This procedure was repeated again. Before the measurement, each strand of hair was moistened with water for 2 seconds. After combing each strand of hair (3 strokes), each strand of hair was combed 10 times, measuring the work done (the hair strands were slowly rotated). The work done was related to the reduction of wet combability (where: the higher the numerical value for reducing wet combability, the lower the labor required to pull the comb through the hair strand). For each shampoo wet combability was measured on 12 strands of hair.

2.2 Assessment of disentanglement and hairgrip in hairstrip tests by experts

In a second test, eight strands of hair were trimmed by two independent experts (a, b) for disentanglement (wet) and grip (Softness, smoothness) of the hair strands judged in a dry state. The hair strands used were machine straps made of Euro-natural-hair; draw; pulled twice; Color 7/0; 3 cm wide, 25 cm total length; about 2 g total weight (Kerling Int. Haarfabrik GmbH). The hair tresses were previously pretreated by treating with a hair dye (80 g "Igora Royal color & care developer" mixed with 20 g "Igora blue dust-free bleach") and rinsing with water after 30 minutes for 20 seconds , Subsequently, the strands were each washed with 1 ml of a 10% sodium lauryl ether sulfate solution, rinsed with water for 20 seconds and wrung out. 1g of the respective test shampoos was filled into one Petri dish each. Subsequently, the previously damaged strands of hair were briefly immersed in the respective test shampoos and rinsed with water. The tresses were evaluated by the two experts in dry and wet condition.

The hair strands treated with the composition according to the invention were characterized by an unexpectedly good wet combability, good entrapment and great smoothness.

Claims

claims

A cleansing cosmetic composition containing in a cosmetic carrier

a) at least one anionic surfactant (A),

b) at least one amphoteric surfactant (B),

d) at least one native oil (D),

e) at least one cationic polysaccharide (E),

characterized in that

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the weight ratio of anionic surfactant (A) to alkanolamide (C) is 13: 1 to 9: 1, preferably 12: 1 to 10: 1.

3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of amphoteric surfactant (B) to alkanolamide (C) is 10: 1 to 6: 1, preferably 9: 1 to 7: 1.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion by weight of anionic surfactant (A) in the total weight of the composition is from 4.0 to 7.0% by weight, preferably from 5.0 to 6.0% by weight ,

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one anionic surfactant (A) from the group of alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether of the formula R-0- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ 0) n-0-S0 ₃ X. in which R is preferably a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, n is 0 or 1 to 12 and X is an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal or triethanolamine, where anionic surfactants with the INCI name Sodium Lauryl Sulfate are particularly preferred.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant (B) from the group of the general formula (iii)

contains, with amphoteric surfactants having the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine are particularly preferred.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one alkanolamide (C) from the group of mono- and / or diethanolamides and / or mono- and / or diisopropanolamides of a C ₈ -C ₂ 4 fatty acid, wherein the fatty acid (s) coconut fatty acids, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and / or stearic acid is (are) and alkanolamides (C) with the INCI name Cocamide MEA are particularly preferred.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight fraction of the native oil (D) in the total weight of the composition 0.01 to 0.3% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 0, 1 wt .-% is ,

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight fraction of the cationic polysaccharide (E) in the total weight of the composition 0.05 to 1, 0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 0.5 wt .-% is.

10. A method of hair treatment, characterized in that a cosmetic cleaning composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 applied to the wet hair, and rinsed after a contact time of 30 seconds to 5 minutes with water.