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EP2432449A2 - Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins un polyuréthanne anionique élastomère et au moins un épaississant non ionique - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins un polyuréthanne anionique élastomère et au moins un épaississant non ionique

Info

Publication number
EP2432449A2
EP2432449A2 EP10721783A EP10721783A EP2432449A2 EP 2432449 A2 EP2432449 A2 EP 2432449A2 EP 10721783 A EP10721783 A EP 10721783A EP 10721783 A EP10721783 A EP 10721783A EP 2432449 A2 EP2432449 A2 EP 2432449A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
company
chain
ionic
groups
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP10721783A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Laëtitia FEUILLETTE
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from US12/470,849 external-priority patent/US20100297051A1/en
Priority claimed from US12/470,819 external-priority patent/US20100297036A1/en
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP2432449A2 publication Critical patent/EP2432449A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the present disclosure relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one elastomeric film-forming polymer. It also relates to the use of this composition for the formulation of products for shaping, conditioning or care of the hair, for example, for the formulation of hair-styling products.
  • the present disclosure also relates to a method of conditioning, shaping or caring of the hair using this composition.
  • Styling composition refers to any type of hair-dressing composition that can be used for effecting styling.
  • these hair styling formulations such as the aerosol sprays and lacquers may not always give the hairstyle satisfactory resistance to the various natural everyday movements such as walking, movements of the head or gusts of wind. Moreover, these compositions may give the hair a sensation of stiffness, the so-called "helmet effect”. Styling products also include the styling shampoos, which offer the advantage of combining washing of the hair while permitting shaping of the hair during drying, saving time for the increasingly busy user.
  • the polymers used conventionally for the formulation of hair styling products are cationic, anionic, amphoteric or non-ionic film-forming polymers, which may lead to the formation of films that are hard and brittle to a varying degree.
  • the percentage elongation at break measured on the film is low, i.e. generally less than 2%, and the hairstyle is not long- lasting.
  • cosmetic compositions are being sought for the care and/or fixing of the hairstyle which give the hair, in addition to long-lasting fixing, good cosmetic properties, notably conditioning of the hair conferring good disentangling, softness and a pleasant, non-sticky appearance, as well as ease of use and low risk in use.
  • polyurethane technology One approach for achieving this objective is polyurethane technology.
  • the polyurethanes have a characteristic of being very elastic and therefore of forming a stretchable film, which can withstand mechanical stresses. On the hair, this can translate into the formation of a homogeneous, non-brittle sheathing along the fibre.
  • the problems associated with this polyurethane technology are that the polyurethanes are very hydrophobic and therefore are not dispersible as such in water, or they are often in the form of opaque white latices. In this case, when included in any cosmetic formula, on application there may be formation of a white deposit on the hair, which is unacceptable for the consumer.
  • the polyurethanes according to the present disclosure are dispersible in water, giving clear or translucent solutions.
  • certain polyurethanes are non-thickening. In this case they may be combined with thickening polymers in the formulations so that they can be manipulated easily and deposited on the hair without running.
  • the present disclosure relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one elastomeric anionic film-forming polyurethane (A) and at least one non-ionic thickening polymer, wherein the at least one elastomeric anionic film-forming polyurethane (A) comprises:
  • PPG polypropylene glycol
  • chain extender organic polyamine comprising an average of at least two primary amine groups.
  • This composition may be used to obtain a flexible, non-brittle film on human keratinous fibers, which may allow the human keratinous fibers to move perfectly.
  • composition according to the present disclosure may be used for conditioning the human keratinous fibers.
  • Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to a method of shaping or maintaining the hairstyle comprising applying the disclosed composition to human keratinous fibers.
  • the at least one elastomeric anionic film-forming polyurethane (A) may be prepared according to the method described in International Patent Application Publication Nos: WO2006/124250 and WO03/087183. [021] In at least one embodiment, the at least one elastomeric anionic film- forming polyurethane (A) comprises
  • - represents from 12 to 80% by weight of polyurethane (A), and - has a molecular weight ranging from 1000 g/mol to 30,000 g/mol;
  • PPG polypropylene glycol
  • DMPA dimethylolpropionic acid
  • At least one di-isocyanate for instance, a isophorone diisocyanate
  • a chain extender organic polyamine having an average of at least 2 primary amine groups.
  • the at least one elastomeric anionic film-forming polyurethane (A) is soluble or dispersible, either in an aqueous medium (100% water), or in a water/ethanol solvent mixture containing at most 30 wt.% of ethanol.
  • aqueous medium 100% water
  • water/ethanol solvent mixture containing at most 30 wt.% of ethanol.
  • at least 10 g of polymer (A) is soluble or dispersible in 90 grams of water or of water/ethanol mixture.
  • the at least one elastomeric anionic film-forming polyurethane (A) can be partially or totally neutralized or over-neutralized with inorganic or organic bases, for instance, with soda and/or triethylamine, in an amount making it possible to obtain, for example, a degree of neutralization of the anionic functions of the polymer ranging from 0 to 150%, such as ranging from 50 to 100%.
  • the "degree of neutralization to 150%" is obtained with an amount of inorganic or organic base equal to 1.5 times the amount of base required to obtain the degree of neutralization to 100%.
  • the at least one elastomeric anionic film-forming polyurethane (A) is a salt composed of two parts: one anionic polyurethane and a cationic ion, metallic or organic.
  • the film obtained by drying the at least one elastomeric anionic film-forming polyurethane (A) at room temperature (24°C ⁇ 2°C) and at a relative humidity of 48% ⁇ 5% has a mechanical profile comprising:
  • film obtained by drying at room temperature (24°C ⁇ 2°C) and at a relative humidity of 48% ⁇ 5% means the film obtained, in these conditions, from a mixture comprising 6% of active substance (a.s.) of the elastomeric anionic film-forming polyurethane (A), in a solvent (S).
  • the amount of active substance is understood as being relative to the total weight of solvent (S) and the amount of mixture is suitable for obtaining, in a Teflon matrix, a film with thickness of 500 ⁇ m ⁇ 50 ⁇ m, after drying the mixture, said drying being continued until there is no longer any change in weight of the film, which represents approximately 10 days.
  • the solvent (S) is a mixture ethanol/water comprising less than 30 % by weight of water.
  • the expression “elongation at break” and the “degree of recovery” are evaluated via the tests described below.
  • the polymer film obtained is cut into test pieces of rectangular shape, 80 mm long and 15 mm wide. [030] To measure the elongation, the polymer film obtained is cut into dumbbell- shaped test pieces.
  • test pieces are stretched at a speed of 20 mm/min and the distance between the jaws is 50 mm ⁇ 1 mm.
  • the elongation at break represents the ratio of the maximum elongation of the film before it breaks to its initial length measured before undergoing deformation.
  • the procedure for determining the instantaneous recovery (R 1 ) is as follows:
  • R300S (( ⁇ m ax - ⁇ 3oos)/ ⁇ m ax) x 100
  • the at least one elastomeric anionic film-forming polyurethane (A) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.05 to 20 wt.%, for instance, ranging from 0.1 to 15 wt.% or ranging from 1 to 10 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • NON-IONIC THICKENING POLYMER any type of non-ionic thickening polymer, whether associative or non-associative, can be used.
  • the at least one non-ionic thickening polymer is chosen from associative thickening polymers. They may include at least one hydrophilic sequence and at least one hydrophobic sequence. [041 ] The at least one hydrophobic sequence may be chosen from alkyl, alkenyl, alkaryl or aralkyl chains having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the at least one hydrophilic sequence may be chosen from polyethylene oxide, a polysaccharide, a polyamide such as polyacrylamide, a polyester and mixtures thereof, for example, a polyethylene oxide having from 2 to 500 mol of ethylene oxides.
  • the bond or bonds between hydrophilic sequence and hydrophobic sequence may be chosen from, without imposing any limitation, ester, ether, urea, amide, and urethane type and mixtures thereof.
  • non-associative polymer means a polymer not containing simultaneously at least one C8-C30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit.
  • non-associative non-ionic polymers according to the present disclosure can be of natural or synthetic origin. [046] They may be selected from:
  • non-ionic homopolymers or copolymers containing monomers with an ethylenic unsaturation of the ester and/or amide type exemplary mention may be made of the polyamides, such as the products sold under the names: CYANAMER P250 by the company CYTEC (polyacrylamide); methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymers (PMMA MBX-8C by the company US COSMETICS); butyl methacrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymers (ACRYLOID B66 by the company ROHM & HAAS), poly(methyl methacrylate) (BPA 500 by the company KOBO).
  • CYANAMER P250 by the company CYTEC (polyacrylamide); methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymers (PMMA MBX-8C by the company US COSMETICS); butyl methacrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymers (ACRYLOID B66 by the company ROHM &
  • the homo- or copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone may be selected from the crosslinked vinyl pyrrolidone homopolymers such as POLYMER ACP-10 marketed by ISP.
  • the polysaccharides may be selected from glucans, modified or unmodified starches (such as those obtained, for example, from cereals such as wheat, maize or rice, from legumes such as blond pea, from tubers such as potatoes or manioc), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethyl hydroxyethyl celluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, al
  • the compounds of this type that can be used in the present disclosure may be selected from those described in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", Kirk- Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp. 896-900, and volume 15, pp 439-458, in "Polymers in Nature", by E. A. MacGregor and C. T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp 240-328, 1980 and in "Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", Edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, publ. Academic Press Inc..
  • Starches, guar gums, celluloses and their derivatives may be used.
  • the polysaccharides can be modified or unmodified.
  • Unmodified guar gums are for example the products sold under the name VIDOGUM GH 175 by the company UNIPECTINE, and under the names MEYPRO- GUAR 50 and JAGUAR C by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.
  • the modified non-ionic guar gums may be modified with C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • hydroxyalkyl groups we may mention for example the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
  • guar gums are well known to one of ordinary skill in the art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting the corresponding oxides of alkenes, for example propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
  • the degree of hydroxyalkylation which corresponds to the number of molecules of alkylene oxide consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, may range from 0.4 to 1.2.
  • These non-ionic guar gums, optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120, JAGUAR DC 293 and JAGUAR HP 105 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE or under the name GALACTASOL 4H4FD2 by the company AQUALON.
  • celluloses non-limiting mention may be made of the hydroxyethyl celluloses and the hydroxypropyl celluloses.
  • the associative polymers may be selected from:
  • alkyl groups may be chosen from C 8 -C 2 2 alkyl groups, such as the product NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (Ci6 alkyls) sold by the company AQUALON, or the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company BEROL NOBEL,
  • hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups having at least one fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI, the products RE210-18 (Ci 4 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C 2 o alkyl chain) sold by the company RHONE POULENC.
  • copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain for example the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.
  • polyether polyurethanes comprising, in their chain, simultaneously, hydrophilic sequences such as polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic sequences, which may be chosen from aliphatic sequences, cycloaliphatic sequences, and aromatic sequences.
  • polymers with an aminoplast ether backbone comprising at least one fatty chain such as the compounds PURE THIX offered by the company SUD-CHEMIE.
  • the polyether polyurethanes have at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, and the hydrocarbon chains can be pendant chains or chains at the end of a hydrophilic sequence. For instance, it is possible for at least one pendant chains to be provided.
  • the polymer can have a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.
  • the polyether polyurethanes can be multiblock copolymers such as in the form of triblock copolymers.
  • the hydrophobic sequences can be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with central hydrophilic sequence) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer, for example).
  • These same polymers can also be as grafts or star-shaped.
  • the non-ionic fatty-chain polyether polyurethanes may be triblock copolymers wherein the hydrophilic sequence is chosen from polyoxyethylenated chains having from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups.
  • the nonionic polyether polyurethanes have a urethane linkage between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the name.
  • the non-ionic fatty-chain polyether polyurethanes include those in which the hydrophilic sequences are bound to the lipophilic sequences by other chemical bonds.
  • Non-limiting examples of non-ionic fatty-chain polyether polyurethanes that can be used in the present disclosure include: RHEOLATE.205 with urea function sold by the company RHEOX or alternatively RHEOLATES.208, 204 or 212, as well as ACRYSOL RM.
  • RHEOLATE.205 with urea function sold by the company RHEOX or alternatively RHEOLATES.208, 204 or 212, as well as ACRYSOL RM.
  • Solutions or dispersions of these polymers in, for instance, water or aqueous-alcoholic medium may also be used. Non-limiting mention may be made of RHEOLATE, RHEOLATE.278 and RHEOLATE.244 sold by the company RHEOX.
  • the product DW 1206F and the product DW 1206J offered by the company ROHM & HAAS can also be used.
  • the polyether polyurethanes that can be used according to the present disclosure may be those described in the article of G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271 , 380-389 (1993).
  • a polyether polyurethane that is prepared from polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol containing from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
  • ACULYN 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15 wt.% in a matrix of maltodexthn (4%) and water (81 %);
  • ACULYN 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35 wt.% in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%).
  • the at least one associative polymer is chosen from:
  • Non-ionic polyether polyurethanes having at least one polyoxyethylenated chain and at least one fatty chain such as C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl groups, such as the products ACULYN 44 and ACULYN 46 sold by the company ROHM & HAAS
  • the polymer DERMOTHIX 100 sold by the company ALZO the molecule of which has two oxyethylenated units each joined to a C18 hydrocarbon group at the chain end and joined together via a polyurethane sequence.
  • the non-ionic thickening polymer is selected from:
  • polyether polyurethanes having both hydrophilic sequences such as a polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic sequences in their chain.
  • the non-ionic thickening polymer or polymers is/are present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5 wt.%, for instance, in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 2 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetically acceptable medium may be chosen from water and/or at least one organic solvent, such as selected from the C2-C 4 alcohols, for instance, ethanol, the polyols and ethers of polyols such as propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, glycerol, acetone, propylene carbonate and benzyl alcohol.
  • organic solvent such as selected from the C2-C 4 alcohols, for instance, ethanol, the polyols and ethers of polyols such as propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, glycerol, acetone, propylene carbonate and benzyl alcohol.
  • compositions according to the present disclosure can also contain other cosmetically acceptable additives, for example ionic or non-ionic surfactants; cationic, anionic or amphoteric thickeners; penetrating agents; perfumes; colorants; plasticizers; buffers; and various usual additives such as waxes; volatile or non-volatile, cyclic or linear or branched silicones, which may be organically modified such as alkoxylated or modified with amine groups or unmodified; ceramides, pseudoceramides; vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils; vitamins or provitamins such as panthenol; opacifiers; reducing agents; emulsifiers; preservatives; mineral fillers; nacres; glitter; sun filters; proteins; anionic, non-ionic, cationic or amphoteric fixing polymers different from anionic polyurethanes (A); hydrating agents; emollients; softening agents; antifoaming agents; antiperspirants; anti
  • salts for example, the salts of alkali metals such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, salts of amines, salts of amino-alcohols, or salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example of magnesium, of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamidoether sulphates, alkarylpolyether sulphates, monoglyceride-sulphates; alkyl sulphonates, alkylamide sulphonates, alkaryl sulphonates, ⁇ -olefin-sulphonates, paraffin-sulphonates; alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkylamide- sulphosuccinates; alkyl sulphoacetates;
  • C ⁇ -C2 4 alkyl esters of polyglycoside-carboxylic acids such as alkyl glucoside-citrates, alkyl polyglycoside- tartrates, and alkyl polyglycoside-sulphosuccinates; alkylsulphosuccinamat.es, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl group of all these compounds having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • anionic surfactants that can be used, non-limiting mention may be made of the acyl lactylates in which the acyl group has from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids and their salts we may also mention the alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids and their salts as well as the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C2 4 )ether-carboxylic acids, the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C 24 )aryl(C6-C 24 )ether-carboxylic acids, the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C2 4 )amidoether carboxylic acids and their salts, such as those having from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof.
  • non-ionic surfactants that can be used within the scope of the present disclosure are also compounds that are well known per se (in this connection, see for instance, "Handbook of Surfactants” by M. R. PORTER, publ. Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp 116-178).
  • They may be selected from the alcohols, the alpha- diols, the alkyl(Ci-C2o) phenols or the polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, having a fatty chain with for example from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, with the number of ethylene oxide groups or propylene oxide groups ranging from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging from 2 to 30.
  • copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide the condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; the polyethoxylated fatty amides having from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; the polyglycerolated fatty amides having on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups such as 1 .5 to 4 glycerol groups; the polyethoxylated fatty amines having 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; the ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; the sucrose fatty acid esters, the polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, the alkyl(C6-C 24 )polyglucosides, the derivatives of N-alkyl(C6-C 24 )glucamine, the oxides of amines such as the oxides of alkyl(Cio- Ci 4 )amines or the oxides of N-acyl(Cio-C
  • amphoteric surfactants may be chosen from derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, wherein the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group; we may also mention the alkyl(C8-C 2 o)betaines, the sulphobetaines, the alkyl(C8-C 2 o)amidoalkyl(C6-C8)-betaines or the alkyl(C8-C 2 o)amidoalkyl(C6-C 8 )sulphobetaines; and mixtures thereof.
  • R 2 is chosen from the alkyl groups derived from an R 2 -COOH acid present in hydrolysed copra oil, heptyl groups, nonyl groups, or undecyl groups; R 3 is chosen from beta-hydroxyethyl groups; and R 4 is chosen from carboxymethyl groups; and
  • R 2 -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N(B)(C) (2) wherein: B is chosen from -CH 2 CH 2 OX',
  • C is chosen from -(CH 2 ) Z -Y', with z being chosen from 1 and 2
  • X' is chosen from the -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH groups and a hydrogen atom
  • Y 1 is chosen from -COOH and -CH 2 -CHOH-SO 3 H
  • R 2 is chosen from the alkyl groups of an R 2 -COOH acid present in copra oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, alkyl groups, such as Ci 7 and its iso form or an unsaturated Ci 7 group.
  • the cocoamphodiacetate marketed under the trade name MIRANOL ® "C2M concentre" by the company RHODIA.
  • the alkyl(Cs-C 2 o)betaines such as cocobetaine
  • the alkyl(C8-C 2 o)amidoalkyl(C6-C8)betaines such as cocamidobetaine
  • the alkylamphodiacetates such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the present disclosure can additionally contain at least one cationic surfactant that are well known per se, such as the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, the quaternary ammonium salts such as the tetraalkylammonium, al kylam idoal kyltrial kyl- ammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkyl-ammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides, the derivatives of imidazoline; or the oxides of amines of cationic character.
  • the non-ionic, anionic, amphoteric and cationic surfactants described above can be used individually or mixed and their amount is ranging from 0.01 and
  • wt. % for example, ranging from 0.05 and 20 wt.% such as ranging from 0.1 and
  • the silicones for use as additives in the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are volatile or non-volatile silicones, cyclic, linear or branched, unmodified or modified with organic groups, having a viscosity ranging from 5.10 "6 to
  • the silicones that can be used according to the present disclosure can be soluble or insoluble in the composition, for instance, it can be polyorganosiloxanes that are insoluble in the composition of the present disclosure. They can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
  • organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in the work of Walter
  • silicones may be selected from those with a boiling point between 60 0 C and 260 0 C, non-limiting examples include:
  • VOLATILE SILICONE ® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE ® 70045 V2 by RHODIA the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE ® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, and mixtures thereof.
  • organic compounds derived from silicon such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1 ,1 '-(hexa-2,2,2'2'3,3'-thmethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane.
  • the volatile linear silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and with a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 "6 m 2 /s at 25° C.
  • these include, for example, the decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91 , Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics”.
  • Non-volatile silicones may also be used, non-limiting examples include polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups and mixtures thereof.
  • these silicones may be selected from the polyalkylsiloxanes such as the polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups.
  • the viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
  • these polyalkylsiloxanes as non-limiting examples, the following commercial products:
  • the polyalkarylsiloxanes are selected, for instance, from the polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, the polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched with viscosity ranging from 1.10 ⁇ 5 to 5.10 "2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • the silicone gums that can be used according to the present disclosure include polyorganosiloxanes, with high number-average molecular weights between 200,000 and 1 ,000,000 used alone or mixed in a solvent.
  • Said solvent can be selected from the volatile silicones, the polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, the polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, the isoparaffins, the polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, thdecane or mixtures thereof.
  • Products that can be used according to the present disclosure are mixtures such as:
  • CTFA such as the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company DOW CORNING
  • the product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 /s and an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5.10 "6 m 2 /s. This product may have15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of oil SF 96.
  • the resins of organopolysiloxanes that can be used according to the present disclosure are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: (R)2SiO 2 / 2 , (R) 3 SiOiZ 2 , RSiO 3 / 2 and SiO 4/2 wherein R is chosen from hydrocarbon groups with 1 to 16 carbon atoms and phenyl groups.
  • R is chosen from CrC 4 lower alkyl groups, such as methyl or a phenyl group.
  • organically modified silicones that can be used according to the present disclosure are silicones as defined previously, having in their structure at least one organofunctional groups fixed via a hydrocarbon group.
  • organically modified silicones we may mention polyorganosiloxanes having: - polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally with C 6 -C 24 alkyl groups such as the products called dimethicone copolyol marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or the SILWET ® oils L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 from the company UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (Ci2)-methicone copolyol marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name Q2 5200;
  • polyorganosiloxanes having: - polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally with C 6 -C 24 alkyl groups such as the products called dimethicone copolyol marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or the SILWET ® oils L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 from the company UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (Ci2)
  • substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products marketed under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE or the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939, or DOW CORNING 2-8299 by the company DOW CORNING or the product marketed under the name BELSIL ADM LOG 1 by the company WACKER.
  • the substituted amine groups may be chosen from CrC 4 aminoalkyl groups;
  • the silicones as described above can be used alone or mixed, in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20 wt.%, such as ranging from 0.1 to 5 wt.%.
  • compositions of the present disclosure can also contain non-silicone fatty substances, such as mineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic oils; waxes, fatty esters, ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated fatty alcohols, and fatty acids.
  • non-silicone fatty substances such as mineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic oils
  • waxes such as waxes, fatty esters, ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated fatty alcohols, and fatty acids.
  • oils for use in the composition of the present disclosure non-limiting mention may be made of:
  • hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as the liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soya oil, cucurbit oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, the triglycerides of caprylic/caphc acids such as those sold by the company Stearinehes Dubois or those sold under the names MIGLYOL ® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
  • fluorinated oils partially hydrocarbon ized and/or siliconized, such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; as fluorinated oils, we may also mention perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1 ,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC ® PC1" and “FLUTEC ® PC3” by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-i ⁇ -dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050 ® " and "PF 5060 ® " by the company 3M, or alternatively bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL ® " by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; derivatives of perfluoro
  • the wax or waxes may be selected from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, and Alpha wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, the vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flower sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the present disclosure include the marine waxes such as that sold by the company SOPHIM under reference M82, the waxes of polyethylene or of polyolefins.
  • the saturated or unsaturated fatty acids may be selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.
  • the fatty esters may be chosen from the esters of carboxylic acids, for example, the mono-, di-, tri- or tetracarboxylates.
  • esters of carboxylic acids may be chosen from the esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C 2 6 aliphatic acids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic alcohols, the total number of carbons in the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • esters of C 4 -C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and the esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 2 -C 2 B di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.
  • esters mentioned above non-limiting mention may be made of the ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl hexyl and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate.
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl
  • Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include: saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol.
  • the fatty substances may be represent in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 50%; for instance, ranging from 1 to 30%, or ranging from 2 to 20 wt.% of the total composition.
  • the compositions can include at least one additional fixing polymers different from the polymers of the present disclosure.
  • Fixing polymer means, for the purpose of the present disclosure, any polymer for imparting shape to the hair or for maintaining the hair in a given shape.
  • All the anionic, cationic, amphoteric and non-ionic fixing polymers, different from the polyurethanes (A) as well as mixtures thereof used in the industry can be used as additional fixing polymers in the compositions according to the present application.
  • the fixing polymers can be soluble in the cosmetically acceptable medium or insoluble in said medium and used in this case in the form of dispersions of solid or liquid particles of polymer (latex or pseudolatex).
  • the anionic fixing polymers may be selected from polymers having groups derived from carboxylic, sulphonic or phosphoric acid and have a number- average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 5,000,000.
  • the carboxyl groups are supplied by unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to the formula:
  • n is an integer ranging from 0 to 10;
  • Ai is chosen from methylene groups, optionally joined to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the adjacent methylene group when n is greater than 1 , via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulphur;
  • R 7 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, phenyl groups, and benzyl groups;
  • Rs is chosen from a hydrogen atom, lower alkyl groups and carboxyl groups;
  • Rg is chosen from a hydrogen atom, lower alkyl groups, -CH 2 -COOH, phenyl groups, and benzyl groups.
  • a lower alkyl group may be chosen from groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as the methyl and ethyl groups.
  • anionic fixing polymers with carboxyl groups according to the present disclosure may include, for example:
  • copolymers of crotonic acid such as those having vinyl acetate or propionate units in their chain, and optionally other monomers such as the allyl or methallyl esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid, with long hydrocarbon chain, such as those having at least 5 carbon atoms, and said polymers can optionally be grafted or crosslinked, or alternatively another vinyl, allyl or methallyl ester monomer of an ⁇ - or ⁇ -cyclic carboxylic acid.
  • Such polymers may be the ones described in, among others, French Patent Nos.
  • copolymers comprising (i) at least one group chosen from maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids and anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer selected from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinylic derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters.
  • Anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidated.
  • Such polymers may be the ones described in U.S. Patent No. 2,047,398, U.S. Patent No. 2,723,248, U.S. Patent No. 2,102,113, Great Britain Patent No. 839 805.
  • Commercial products may include those sold under the names GANTREZ ® AN or ES by the company ISP;
  • copolymers comprising (i) at least one unit chosen from maleic, citraconic, itaconic anhydride units and (ii) at least one monomer selected from allyl or methallyl esters optionally with at least one group chosen from acrylamide, methacrylamide, ⁇ - olefin groups, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, acrylic acids, methacrylic acids, and vinyl pyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidated.
  • Homopolymers and copolymers containing sulphonic groups such as the polymers having vinylsulphonic, styrene-sulphonic, naphthalene-sulphonic or acrylamido-alkylsulphonic units different from the branched sulphonic polyesters of the present disclosure.
  • These polymers may be selected from: - salts of polyvinylsulphonic acid having a molecular weight between about 1000 and 100,000, as well as copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, as well as acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinyl pyrrol idone; - salts of polystyrene-sulphonic acid such as the sodium salts sold for example under the name FLEXAN ® 500 and FLEXAN ® 130 by National Starch. These compounds may be the ones described in patent FR 2 198 719;
  • polyacrylamide-sulphonic acids such as those mentioned in patent US 4 128 631 , for example, the polyacrylamidoethylpropane-sulphonic acid sold under the name COSMEDIA POLYMER HSP 1180 by HENKEL.
  • anionic fixing polymer As another anionic fixing polymer that can be used according to the present disclosure, we may mention the branched anionic block polymer sold under the name FIXATETM G-100 Polymer by the company LUBRIZOL.
  • the anionic fixing polymers may be selected from the copolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylic esters such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold under the name ULTRAHOLD ® STRONG by the company BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as the vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company NATIONAL STARCH, the polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as the monoestehfied methylvinylether/maleic anhydride copolymers
  • anionic fixing polymers within the scope of the present disclosure, non-limiting mention may be made of the monoesterified methylvinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers sold under the name GANTREZ ® ES 425 by the company ISP, the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold under the name ULTRAHOLD ® STRONG by the company BASF, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and methyl methacrylate sold under the name EUDRAGIT ® L by the company ROHM PHARMA, the vinyl acetate/vinyl tert- butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name RESIN 28-29-30 by the company NATIONAL STARCH, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and e
  • the cationic film-forming fixing polymers for use according to the present disclosure may be selected from the polymers having primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or joined directly to the latter, and having a molecular weight ranging from 500 to about 5,000,000 such as ranging from 1000 to 3,000,000.
  • these polymers non-limiting mention may be made of the following cationic polymers:
  • R 3 is chosen from a hydrogen atom and CH 3 radicals
  • A is chosen from linear or branched alkyl groups having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and hydroxyalkyl groups having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • R 4 , R 5 , Re which may be identical or different, are chosen from alkyl groups having of 1 to 18 carbon atoms and benzyl radicals;
  • Ri and R2 which may be identical or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom and alkyl groups having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; X is chosen from methosulphate anions and halides such as chloride or bromide.
  • the copolymers of family (1 ) additionally contain at least one unit derived from comonomers, which can be selected from the family comprising the acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone-acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower alkyl groups (C1-C4), groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyl lactams such as vinyl pyrrolidone or vinyl caprolactam, vinyl esters.
  • comonomers which can be selected from the family comprising the acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone-acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower alkyl groups (C1-C4), groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyl lactams such as vinyl pyrrolidone or vinyl caprolactam, vinyl esters.
  • fatty-chain polymers with a vinyl pyrrolidone unit such as the products sold under the name STYLEZE W20 and STYLEZE W10 by the company ISP
  • dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinyl caprolactam/vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product marketed under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP
  • the quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers such as the products marketed under the name "GAFQUAT ® HS 100" by the company ISP;
  • the non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides for example, the non- cellulosic cationic polysaccharides with quaternary ammonium such as those described in US Patent Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031 ,307 such as the guar gums containing cationic thalkylammonium groups.
  • the chitosans or their salts include the acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrol idone-carboxylate of chitosan.
  • the cationic derivatives of cellulose such as the copolymers of cellulose or of cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer bearing a quaternary ammonium, and described in, for example, US Patent No. 4,131 ,576, for instance the hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted with a methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium salt, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium salt, or dimethyl-diallylammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition include, for example, the products sold under the name "CELQUAT L 200" and "CELQUAT H 100" by the company National Starch.
  • amphoteric fixing polymers that can be used according to the present disclosure can be selected from the polymers having units B and C randomly distributed in the polymer chain, wherein B is chosen from units derived from a monomer having at least one basic nitrogen atom and C is chosen from units derived from an acidic monomer having one or more carboxyl or sulphonic groups, or else B and C may be chosen from groups derived from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or sulphobetaines;
  • B and C may aslo be chosen from cationic polymer chains having primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, wherein at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxyl or sulphonic group joined via a hydrocarbon group, or else B and C form part of a chain of a polymer with an ethylene- ⁇ , ⁇ -dicarboxyl unit in which one of the carboxyl groups has been reacted with a polyamine bearing one or more primary or secondary amine groups.
  • amphoteric fixing polymers corresponding to the definition given above may be selected from the following polymers:
  • the copolymers with acidic vinyl units and with basic vinyl units such as those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl ic compound bearing a carboxyl group such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha- chloroacrylic acid, and of a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinylic compound containing at least one basic atom, such as dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide.
  • Such compounds may be the ones described in US Patent No. 3,836,537.
  • the polymers having units derived from : a) at least one monomer selected from the acrylamides or the methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with an alkyl group, b) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxyl groups, and c) at least one basic comonomer such as esters with primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulphate.
  • the N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides may be chosen from compounds in which the alkyl groups have from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, for example, N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert- octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide as well as the corresponding methacrylamides.
  • the acidic comonomers may be selected from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic, fumaric acids as well as the alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.
  • the basic comonomers include, as a non-limiting example, aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N'-dimethylaminoethyl, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.
  • the copolymers may include those whose CTFA designation (4th Ed., 1991 ) is octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl-methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER ® or LOVOCRYL ® 47 by the company NATIONAL STARCH.
  • Ri 0 is chosen from divalent groups derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, from an aliphatic mono- or dicarboxylic acid with ethylenic double bond, from an ester of a lower alkanol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or from a group derived from the addition of any one of said acids with a bis-primary or bis-secondary amine
  • Z is chosen from groups derived from a bis-primary, mono- or bis-secondary polyalkylene-polyamine, for instance, Z may be chosen from: a) in the proportions from 60 to 100 mol.%, the group
  • polyaminoamides in the proportions from 0 to 20 mol.%, the group -NH-(CH 2 )6-NH- derived from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamides being crosslinked by a reaction of addition of a bifunctional crosslinking agent selected from the epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, using 0.025 to 0.35 mol of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide, and acylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane-sultone or salts thereof.
  • a bifunctional crosslinking agent selected from the epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives
  • the saturated carboxylic acids may be selected from the acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as adipic, trimethyl-2,2,4-adipic and trimethyl-2,4,4-adipic, terephthalic acids, acids with an ethylenic double bond, for example, acrylic, methacrylic, itaconic acids.
  • the alkane-sultones used in the acylation may include propane- or butane-sultone, the salts of the acylating agents such as the sodium or potassium salts.
  • R 11 C N — (CH 2 ) z — C - O (IV) I R 13 y R 15 wherein Rn is chosen from a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an
  • acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z are chosen from an integer ranging from 1 to 3, R 12 and R 13 are chosen from a hydrogen atom, methyl
  • Ri 4 and R15 are chosen from a hydrogen atom and alkyl groups in such a way that the sum of the carbon atoms in Ri 4 and R15 is less than or equal to 10.
  • the polymers containing such units can also have units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate.
  • non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate.
  • methylammonio-ethylmethacrylate copolymers such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by the company SANDOZ.
  • unit (D) being present in proportions between 0 and 30%
  • unit (E) in proportions
  • Ri 6 represents a group of formula:
  • R 22 wherein R 2 o is chosen from a hydrogen atom, CH 3 O, CH 3 CH 2 O, and phenyl groups, R 21 is chosen from a hydrogen atom and lower alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, R22 is chosen from a hydrogen atom and C1-C6 lower alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, R23 is chosen from C1-C6 lower alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl and groups corresponding to the formula: -R24-N(R22)2, R24 is chosen from -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-, R 22 having the meanings given above.
  • amphoteric polymers of the type -D-X-D-X selected from: a) the polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds having at least one unit of formula:
  • E or E' which may be identical or different, are chosen from divalent groups, which are linear or branched alkylene groups, with up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, unsubstituted or substituted with hydroxyl groups and which can additionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, or sulphur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulphur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulphoxide, sulphone, sulphonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine groups; hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and/or urethane groups.
  • D is chosen from groups of: and X denotes the symbol E or E' and at least once E'; E having the meaning stated above and E' is a divalent group, which is a linear or branched alkylene group, with up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, unsubstituted or substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and bearing one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted with an alkyl chain interrupted optionally by an oxygen atom and which must have one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions, betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate.
  • the at least one amphoteric fixing polymer is chosen from those of family (3) such as the copolymers whose CTFA designation is octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylamino-ethylmethacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names AM PHOM ER ® , AMPHOMER ® LV 71 or LOVOCRYL ® 47 by the company NATIONAL STARCH and those of family (4) such as the methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethyl-carboxymethylammonio-ethylmethacrylate copolymers sold for example under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by the company SANDOZ.
  • the non-ionic fixing polymers for use according to the present disclosure are selected, for example, from:
  • the homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic esters such as, for example, the copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates such as the products offered by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names PRIMAL ® AC-261 K and EUDRAGIT ® NE 30 D, by the company BASF under the name 8845, by the company HOECHST under the name APPRETAN ® N9212;
  • the copolymers of styrene for example the copolymers of styrene and alkyl (meth)acrylate such as the products MOWILITH ® LDM 6911 , MOWILITH ® DM 611 and MOWILITH ® LDM 6070 offered by the company HOECHST, the products RHODOPAS ® SD 215 and RHODOPAS ® DS 910 offered by the company RHONE POULENC; the copolymers of styrene, of alkyl methacrylate and of alkyl acrylate; the copolymers of styrene and butadiene; or the copolymers of styrene, butadiene and vinylpyridine;
  • the copolymers of styrene and alkyl (meth)acrylate such as the products MOWILITH ® LDM 6911 , MOWILITH ® DM 611 and MOWILITH ® LDM 6070 offered
  • the alkyl groups of the non-ionic polymers mentioned above may be chose from the alkyls groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • fixing polymers of the grafted silicone type comprising a polysiloxane part and a part constituted of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two parts constituting the main chain of the polymer and the other being grafted onto said main chain.
  • EP-A-O 412 704, EP-A-O 412 707, EP-A-O 640 105, and EP-A-O 582 152 are for example described in European Patent Application Publication Nos.: EP-A-O 412 704, EP-A-O 412 707, EP-A-O 640 105, and EP-A-O 582 152, and International Patent Application Publication Nos.: WO 95/00578 and WO 93/23009, and U.S. Patent No. 4,693,935; 4,728,571 ; and 4,972,037.
  • These polymers can be amphoteric, anionic or non-ionic, for example, anionic polymers or non-ionic polymers.
  • Such polymers are, for example, the copolymers that are obtainable by radical polymerization starting from a mixture of monomers comprising: a) from 50 to 90 wt.% of tert-butyl acrylate, b) from 0 to 40 wt.% of acrylic acid, c) from 5 to 40 wt.% of a silicone macromer of formula
  • v is a number ranging from 5 to 700, the percentages by weight being calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers.
  • grafted silicone polymers include, but not limited to, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which mixed polymer units of the poly(meth)acrylic acid type and of the poly(alkyl (meth)acrylate) type are grafted via a joining group of the thiopropylene type, and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which polymer units of the poly(isobutyl (meth)acrylate) type are grafted via a joining group of the thiopropylene type.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • Polyurethanes different from the polyurethane (A), functionalized or unfunctionalized, siliconized or unsiliconized, cationic, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric, or mixtures thereof, can also be used as fixing polymers.
  • the polyurethanes may include, as non-limiting examples, the ones described in European Patent Application Publication Nos.: EP 0 751 162, EP 0 637 600, and EP 0 648 485, and French Patent No. 2 743 297, as well as in European Patent Application Publication No. EP 0 656 021 and lnternation Patent Application Publication No. WO 94/03510 of the company BASF, and European Patent Applicantion Publication No. EP 0 619 111 of the company National Starch.
  • Polyurethanes that may be suitable for the present disclosure aslo include, as non-limiting examples, the products marketed under the names LUVISET PURE ® and LUVISET ® Si PURE by the company BASF.
  • the concentration of additional fixing polymer(s) used in the compositions according to the present disclosure may range from 0.1 to 20%, for instance, range from 0.5 and 10 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a person skilled in the art would be able to add the additives without disturbing the properties of the compositions of the present disclosure.
  • the compositions are in the form of gels.
  • these compositions may be transparent or translucent.
  • they may have a viscosity greater than 500 cP at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of I s "1 .
  • compositions according to the present disclosure may range from 0 to 900 NTU units, such as range from 0 to 500 NTU units.
  • the pH of the formulas associated with the present disclosure ranges from 1 to 13, for instance, ranges from 3 to 11 , such as ranges from 6 and 9.
  • composition according to the present disclosure when packaged in an aerosol device, it includes at least one propellant, which can be selected from the volatile hydrocarbons, such as N-butane, isobutane, pentane, the halogenated hydrocarbons, dimethyl ether (DME) and mixtures thereof.
  • propellants can be selected from the volatile hydrocarbons, such as N-butane, isobutane, pentane, the halogenated hydrocarbons, dimethyl ether (DME) and mixtures thereof.
  • DME dimethyl ether
  • propellants such as N-butane, isobutane, pentane, the halogenated hydrocarbons, dimethyl ether (DME) and mixtures thereof.
  • propellants such as N-butane, isobutane, pentane, the halogenated hydrocarbons, dimethyl ether (DME) and mixtures thereof.
  • Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, nitrogen, or compressed air can also be used as propellant.
  • the propellant may be present in an amount ranging from 5 to 90 wt. % relative to the total weight of the composition in the aerosol device, and, for example, in an amount ranging from 10 to 60%.
  • the propellant can be any liquefiable gas generally used in aerosol devices.
  • the choice is made, for example, of dimethyl ether, C 3-5 alkanes, chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbons, such as 1,1-difluoroethane, and their mixtures, such as, for example, mixtures of dimethyl ether and of C 3-5 alkanes and mixtures of 1,1-difluoroethane and of dimethyl ether and/or of C 3-5 alkanes.
  • Non- limiting use may also be made, as propellant, of carbon dioxide gas, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air or their mixtures.
  • the propellant gas used is dimethyl ether or C3-5 alkanes and such as propane, n-butane and isobutane and their mixtures.
  • liquid phase/propellant ratio by weight for the pressurized hair compositions of the present disclosure ranges, for example, from 50 to 0.05, such as from 50 to 1.
  • the aerosol device used to package the compositions of the disclosure can be a two-compartment aerosol device composed of an external aerosol can comprising an internal bag hermetically welded to a valve.
  • the composition is introduced into the internal bag and a compressed gas is introduced between the bag and the can at a pressure sufficient to bring about the departure of the product in the form of a spray through the orifice of a nozzle.
  • a compressed gas is, for example, used under a pressure of from 1 to 12 bar, such as of from 9 to 11 bar.
  • compositions introduced into the aerosol device can, for example, be provided in the form of lotions, dispersions or emulsions which, after dispensing from the aerosol device, form foams to be applied to keratinous substances.
  • the hair treatment composition according to the disclosure can additionally comprise at least one cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surface-active agent.
  • composition according to the present disclosure may be used in non-rinse application on the hair.
  • the present disclosure also provides a method of shaping keratin fibers such as hairs, comprising: applying a cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure.
  • the present disclosure also provides a method of styling keratin fibers such as hairs, comprising: applying a composition according to the present disclosure to the hair, optionally rinsing the hair, then shaping and drying the hair.
  • the viscosity measurements were performed with a RHEOMAT RM180 rheometer from the company Mettler, with a speed gradient of 200 rev/min (spindle 4).
  • the turbidity was measured with the HACH turbidimeter - Model 2100 P at 25°C in NTU units (NTU: nephelometric turbidity units).
  • NTU nephelometric turbidity units.
  • the ethylene oxide side chains have a molecular weight of 1200 g/mol and they represent more than 12 wt.% of the polyurethane (A).
  • Polymer 1 Jaguar HP 105, supplied by the company Rhodia.
  • Polymer 2 Rheolate FX 1100, supplied by the company Elementis.
  • Polymer 3 Dermothix 100, supplied by the company Alzo.
  • Polymer 4 Aculyn 46, supplied by the company Rohm and Haas.
  • Polymer 5 Aculyn 44, supplied by the company Rohm and Haas.
  • Polymer 6 Klucel EF Pharma, supplied by the company Aqualon.
  • Polymer 7 Pemulen® Polymeric Emulsifier, supplied by the company Lubrizol.
  • Polymer 8 Synthalen K, supplied by the company 3V.
  • Polymer 9 Viscophobe DB 1000, supplied by the company Amerchol IPDI: lsophorone Diisocyanate
  • DMPA Dimethylolpropionic acid
  • TMP Trimethylolpropane
  • compositions of gels translucent to transparent in water, for shaping the hair are:
  • the gel obtained was homogeneous and sufficiently thick to permit quick and easy application of the composition on the hair. Moreover, the product flowed well in the hands and on the hair, so as to obtain a uniform distribution on all of the hair.
  • the hair fixing was elastic and flexible.
  • the polymer film formed was non-brittle and therefore had high fixing power, which was long-lasting.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention se rapporte à une composition cosmétique comprenant, dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, au moins un polyuréthanne anionique élastomère filmogène et au moins un polymère épaississant non ionique. Cette invention concerne en outre un procédé de coiffage des cheveux pour la mise en forme des cheveux, consistant notamment à appliquer cette composition.
EP10721783A 2009-05-22 2010-05-20 Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins un polyuréthanne anionique élastomère et au moins un épaississant non ionique Withdrawn EP2432449A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US12/470,849 US20100297051A1 (en) 2009-05-22 2009-05-22 Cosmetic composition comprising at least one elastomeric anionic polyurethane and at least one non-ionic thickener
US12/470,819 US20100297036A1 (en) 2009-05-22 2009-05-22 Pressurized cosmetic composition comprising at least one anionic polyurethane elastomer and at least one propellant
PCT/EP2010/056943 WO2010133658A2 (fr) 2009-05-22 2010-05-20 Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins un polyuréthanne anionique élastomère et au moins un épaississant non ionique

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EP2432449A2 true EP2432449A2 (fr) 2012-03-28

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