EP2490661A2 - Procédé pour obtenir une coiffure remodelable - Google Patents
Procédé pour obtenir une coiffure remodelableInfo
- Publication number
- EP2490661A2 EP2490661A2 EP10759669A EP10759669A EP2490661A2 EP 2490661 A2 EP2490661 A2 EP 2490661A2 EP 10759669 A EP10759669 A EP 10759669A EP 10759669 A EP10759669 A EP 10759669A EP 2490661 A2 EP2490661 A2 EP 2490661A2
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- acid
- hair
- formula
- group
- polymer
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Ceased
Links
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- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 57
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- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims abstract description 55
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 27
- 239000007795 chemical reaction product Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 105
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 86
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 claims description 74
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- 230000008878 coupling Effects 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000010168 coupling process Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000005859 coupling reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000002844 melting Methods 0.000 claims description 6
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- LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 20:1omega9c fatty acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N oleic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-HZJYTTRNSA-N Linoleic acid Chemical compound CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-HZJYTTRNSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- DTOSIQBPPRVQHS-PDBXOOCHSA-N alpha-linolenic acid Chemical compound CC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O DTOSIQBPPRVQHS-PDBXOOCHSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 20
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- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 15
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- 125000000129 anionic group Chemical group 0.000 description 10
- 239000006260 foam Substances 0.000 description 10
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- 229920006317 cationic polymer Polymers 0.000 description 9
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N ether Substances CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
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- 238000009826 distribution Methods 0.000 description 8
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- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 8
- 239000001282 iso-butane Substances 0.000 description 8
- 235000013847 iso-butane Nutrition 0.000 description 8
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 8
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- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 13-cis retinol Natural products OCC=C(C)C=CC=C(C)C=CC1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- DHMQDGOQFOQNFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycine Chemical compound NCC(O)=O DHMQDGOQFOQNFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
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- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 description 7
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- MXRGSJAOLKBZLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-ethenylazepan-2-one Chemical compound C=CC1CCCCNC1=O MXRGSJAOLKBZLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
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- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 6
- 125000002252 acyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 6
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- 229920000191 poly(N-vinyl pyrrolidone) Polymers 0.000 description 6
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- YRDNVESFWXDNSI-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-(2,4,4-trimethylpentan-2-yl)prop-2-enamide Chemical compound CC(C)(C)CC(C)(C)NC(=O)C=C YRDNVESFWXDNSI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000004108 n-butyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- 125000000740 n-pentyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- 125000004123 n-propyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- SLCVBVWXLSEKPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N neopentyl glycol Chemical compound OCC(C)(C)CO SLCVBVWXLSEKPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000001971 neopentyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C(C([H])([H])[H])(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 230000007935 neutral effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000005152 nicotinamide Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011570 nicotinamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000001968 nicotinic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960003512 nicotinic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011664 nicotinic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- SXJVFQLYZSNZBT-UHFFFAOYSA-N nonane-1,9-diamine Chemical compound NCCCCCCCCCN SXJVFQLYZSNZBT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000012875 nonionic emulsifier Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000021313 oleic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000006384 oligomerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000002891 organic anions Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000007800 oxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 125000004430 oxygen atom Chemical group O* 0.000 description 1
- SERHXTVXHNVDKA-UHFFFAOYSA-N pantolactone Chemical compound CC1(C)COC(=O)C1O SERHXTVXHNVDKA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940115458 pantolactone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- SIEVQTNTRMBCHO-UHFFFAOYSA-N pantolactone Natural products CC1(C)OC(=O)CC1O SIEVQTNTRMBCHO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WXZMFSXDPGVJKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentaerythritol Chemical compound OCC(CO)(CO)CO WXZMFSXDPGVJKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- PNJWIWWMYCMZRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N pent‐4‐en‐2‐one Natural products CC(=O)CC=C PNJWIWWMYCMZRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002467 phosphate group Chemical group [H]OP(=O)(O[H])O[*] 0.000 description 1
- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 108010054442 polyalanine Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 229920001521 polyalkylene glycol ether Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000008389 polyethoxylated castor oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 108010094020 polyglycine Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 229920000232 polyglycine polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000244 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010482 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000136 polysorbate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940068968 polysorbate 80 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920000053 polysorbate 80 Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940068965 polysorbates Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920002689 polyvinyl acetate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000011118 polyvinyl acetate Substances 0.000 description 1
- XTUSEBKMEQERQV-UHFFFAOYSA-N propan-2-ol;hydrate Chemical compound O.CC(C)O XTUSEBKMEQERQV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QQONPFPTGQHPMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N propylene Natural products CC=C QQONPFPTGQHPMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000004805 propylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([*:1])C([H])([H])[*:2] 0.000 description 1
- AOHJOMMDDJHIJH-UHFFFAOYSA-N propylenediamine Chemical compound CC(N)CN AOHJOMMDDJHIJH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000008160 pyridoxine Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011677 pyridoxine Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940079889 pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940079053 quaternium-27 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000005956 quaternization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000005855 radiation Effects 0.000 description 1
- MUPFEKGTMRGPLJ-ZQSKZDJDSA-N raffinose Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@]1(CO)O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO[C@@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)O)O1 MUPFEKGTMRGPLJ-ZQSKZDJDSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000020945 retinal Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011604 retinal Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229930002330 retinoic acid Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000002020 sage Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000003902 salicylic acid esters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000007127 saponification reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000002914 sec-butyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])(*)C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005507 spraying Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010561 standard procedure Methods 0.000 description 1
- 201000009032 substance abuse Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000008163 sugars Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-M sulfonate Chemical compound [O-]S(=O)=O BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 125000000542 sulfonic acid group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000011975 tartaric acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000002906 tartaric acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 125000000999 tert-butyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C(*)(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 238000010998 test method Methods 0.000 description 1
- HQHCYKULIHKCEB-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecanedioic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O HQHCYKULIHKCEB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000008719 thickening Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000001585 thymus vulgaris Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000009466 transformation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000001069 triethyl citrate Substances 0.000 description 1
- VMYFZRTXGLUXMZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N triethyl citrate Natural products CCOC(=O)C(O)(C(=O)OCC)C(=O)OCC VMYFZRTXGLUXMZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000013769 triethyl citrate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- FAGMGMRSURYROS-UHFFFAOYSA-M trihexadecyl(methyl)azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC FAGMGMRSURYROS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 125000003258 trimethylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([*:2])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[*:1] 0.000 description 1
- 229910052722 tritium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229940119423 ultracare Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000002966 varnish Substances 0.000 description 1
- NCYCYZXNIZJOKI-UHFFFAOYSA-N vitamin A aldehyde Natural products O=CC=C(C)C=CC=C(C)C=CC1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C NCYCYZXNIZJOKI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940011671 vitamin b6 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000003039 volatile agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940118846 witch hazel Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000001841 zingiber officinale Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004711 α-olefin Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/88—Polyamides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
Definitions
- the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition
- a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one polyamide, which is a reaction product of at least one dimerized fatty acid and at least one diamino compound, for obtaining remodeling hairstyles, and a corresponding method for remodeling.
- Corresponding temporary shaping agents usually contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component.
- Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism.
- hair gels and hair waxes are generally not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.
- the first most important property of a composition for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers is to give the treated fibers in the produced form the strongest possible hold. If the keratin fibers are human hair, it is also referred to as a strong hairstyle or the high degree of retention of the styling agent.
- the hairstyle hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of the synthetic polymer used, but also an influence of the other constituents of the styling agent may be given.
- styling agents In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These can be roughly in properties on the hair, properties of each
- Formulation e.g. Properties of the foam, the gel or the sprayed aerosol, and properties that affect the handling of the styling agent, are subdivided, with the properties of the hair is of particular importance.
- Properties of the foam, the gel or the sprayed aerosol, and properties that affect the handling of the styling agent are subdivided, with the properties of the hair is of particular importance.
- a styling agent should be universally applicable as possible for all hair types.
- the polymers can be subdivided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric film-forming and / or setting polymers.
- the polymers yield a polymer film even on a small amount when applied to the hair, on the one hand the hairstyle gives a strong grip, but on the other hand is sufficiently flexible so as not to break under stress. If the polymer film is too brittle, it results in the formation of so-called Filmpiaken, that is residues that detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would dandruff.
- the temporarily styled hair should look healthy and natural next to the strong hairstyle.
- the hair shine plays an outstanding role. Often therefore the hair styling agents so-called brighteners are added in sufficient quantity.
- Brighteners are, for example, oils or gloss pigments such as Mica particles. Glossy particles have the disadvantage of detaching themselves from the hair over time and, after some time, e.g. find again on clothes or facial skin. Oils complain the hair and sometimes lead to a deteriorated adhesion of the film-forming or
- keratinic fibers provide, characterized by a high degree of retention
- the hair damage should be reduced when using heat.
- a first object of the present invention is the use of a cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one polyamide which comprises
- Diamino compound is for obtaining remodelable hairstyles.
- step (iv) without the fixation according to step (iii) the application of a further cosmetic agent containing at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer takes place.
- a dry, polymer-fixed hairstyle which can be reshaped and fixed without the aid of a further cosmetic agent containing at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer, is therefore a "remodelable hairstyle".
- dry is in no way meant to be “dripping wet”, but the state in which the liquid residues adhering to the hair (eg water, organic solvents) have evaporated to such an extent that the moisture content of the fiber is substantially in equilibrium with the humidity of the air or the fiber Absorbs moisture from the air of the environment.
- liquid residues adhering to the hair eg water, organic solvents
- film-forming polymers are understood as meaning those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.
- Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of hair volume and hair fullness of the hairstyle. These polymers are also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays be selective and connect only a few fibers.
- Dimerized fatty acids are used as product in an oligomerization or
- Dimerized fatty acids have long been known to the skilled person and are commercially available. Dimerized fatty acids are known to be present in a mixture of several isomers and oligomers after preparation. Before working up this mixture it contains 0 to 15 wt .-% of monomeric fatty acid, 60 to 96% dimerized fatty acid and 0.2 to 35% trimerized fatty acid or higher oligomerized fatty acid. This crude mixture is usually worked up by distillation, sometimes followed by curing (reduction of the remaining double bonds with hydrogen).
- the cosmetic agent contains the polyamide in an amount of from 0.01 to 30.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0, From 5 to 10.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight %, in each case based on the weight of the composition contains.
- these ranges of amounts also apply to the following preferred embodiments of the polyamide.
- the polyamides preferably used according to the invention preferably have one
- Melting temperature in a temperature range of 55 ° C to 190 ° C, in particular from 60 ° C to 160 ° C, on.
- polyamides according to the invention are in the agent according to the invention in one
- Preferred polyamides have an average molecular weight (weight average) of from 10 kDa to 1000 kDa, in particular from 50 kDa to 800 kDa, very particularly preferably from 100 kDa to 400 kDa.
- the said weight average is an average molecular weight which takes into account the total weight of molecules of different molecular weight and not just the number of molecules. The statistical calculation of the weight average molecular weight distribution is notoriously known to the skilled person and can be taken from textbooks.
- cosmetic agents which are characterized in that the polyamide has an modulus of elasticity at 2% deformation of 10 to 500, especially 20 to 150.
- the modulus of elasticity is determined by the method ASTM D638.
- Particularly preferably usable polyamides have an elongation at break in% of from 20 to 1000, in particular from 400 to 1000, very particularly preferably from 600 to 1000.
- Elongation at break was determined according to DIN 53455.
- Suitable dimerized fatty acids may be obtained by coupling or condensation of two moles of unsaturated monocarboxylic acid (as appropriate monocarboxylic acid may also
- Unsaturated monocarboxylic acids are used as a mixture.
- Unsaturated fatty acids can be obtained with the help of various known catalyzed or uncatalyzed
- dimerized fatty acids which are prepared by coupling of unsaturated (Ci 0 to C 2 4) monocarboxylic acids. These are monounsaturated (Ci 0 to C 2 4) monocarboxylic acids and / or polyunsaturated (Ci 0 to C 2 4) monocarboxylic acids.
- dimerized fatty acids comprise a C36 dicarboxylic acid as the main component and usually have an acid number of 180 to 215, a saponification number from 190 to 205 and a neutral equivalent of 265 to 310 on.
- Dimerized fatty acids with less than 30 wt .-% by-products comprising monocarboxylic acids, trimerized fatty acids and higher oligomerized / polymerized fatty acids are particularly suitable in the context of the invention.
- the dimerized fatty acids can be hardened and / or distilled before the reaction to the polyamide used in the invention. It is preferred according to the invention if the dimerized fatty acid used to prepare the polyamide has a content of at least 90% by weight of the dimer.
- dimerized fatty acids for the preparation of the polyamides prepared by coupling linoleic acid and / or linolenic acid and / or oleic acid. Mixtures of oleic acid and linoleic acid are found in the fatty acid cut of tall oil, which is a favorable source of raw materials.
- a typical composition of the dimerized cis-fatty acids formed by reacting the tall oil fatty acids having 18 carbon atoms and suitable for the preparation of the polyamides used in the invention is:
- aliphatic dicarboxylic acid having 6 to 18 carbon atoms in addition to the dimerized fatty acid for the preparation of the polyamide.
- Both linear and branched dicarboxylic acids can be used.
- Suitable dicarboxylic acids are, for example, compounds of the formula HOOC-R a -COOH in which R a is a divalent, aliphatic, hydrocarbon structural fragment having 4 to 16 carbon atoms, such as in azelaic acid, sebacic acid, dodecane-1, 12-dicarboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof.
- R a can be linear or branched.
- the inventively used for the preparation of the polyamides dimerized fatty acid (and optionally additionally used aliphatic dicarboxylic acid with 6 to 18
- R represents a linear (C 2 to Ci 0) alkylene group, a branched (C 2 to Ci 0) - alkylene group, a group * -R 2 -0- (CH 2 CH 2 0) n (CH 2 CHMeO ) m -R 3 - *, wherein R 2 and R 3 are independently of one another for a (C 2 to C 0 ) -alkylene group (especially for ethane-1, 2-diyl or propane-1, 2-diyl) and n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 100, where the sum of m + n> 0, or for a group of the formula
- R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent a (C 2 to C 6 ) -alkylene group.
- Propylene oxide groups are present as a block or randomly distributed.
- Reaction of at least one dimerized fatty acid with a combination of at least one compound of formula (I) and at least one compound of formula (1-1) is selected
- R stands for a (C 2 to Ci 0) alkylene group
- R 2 and R 3 are independently (C 2 to Cio) alkylene group (for a particular ethane-1, 2-diyl or propan-1, 2-diyl ) and n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 100, the sum of m + n> 0.
- the compounds of formula (1-1) are so-called polyoxyalkylenediamines.
- Processes for the preparation of these polyoxyalkylenediamines are known to the person skilled in the art and comprise the reaction of an initiator molecule carrying two hydroxyl groups with ethylene oxide and / or monosubstituted ethylene oxide (eg propylene oxide) followed by a conversion of the terminal ones Hydroxyl groups in amino groups.
- Polyoxyalkylenediamines of the formula (1-1) which are preferably suitable according to the invention have a molecular weight of 460 to 6,000 g / mol, more preferably of 600 to 5,000.
- suitable polyoxyalkylene be sold as a commercial product Jeffamine ® from Huntsman Corporation, Houston, Texas.
- Polyoxyalkylenediamines are prepared by reacting bifunctional initiators with ethylene oxide and propylene oxide followed by conversion of the terminal hydroxyl groups to amino groups.
- Particularly preferred polyoxyalkylene amines include the Jeffamine TM D series and JD series, (especially Jeffamine JD2000, Jeffamine JD 400 and Jeffamine JD230) from Huntsman Chemical Company.
- Examples of preferred linear alkylenediamines (R is a linear C in the formula (I) 2 -C 0 - alkylene) are 1, 2-ethylenediamine, 1, 2-propylenediamine, 1, 3-propylenediamine,
- Tetramethylenediamine pentamethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, octamethylenediamine.
- Examples of preferred branched alkylene are 2-methyl-1, 5-pentanediamine, 5-methyl-1, 9-nonandiamine and 2,2,4 Trimethyl-1,6-hexanediamine and mixtures thereof.
- At least one diamino compound is 1, 2-ethylenediamine.
- Said polyamides can be prepared by known standard methods under known
- Diamino compound (s) are usually reacted at temperatures of 100 ° C to 300 ° C over a period of 1 to 8 hours.
- the reaction is carried out predominantly at 140 ° C to 240 ° C until the theoretically obtained in the condensation reaction amount of water has formed.
- the reaction preferably takes place in an inert
- Atmosphere such as Nitrogen
- the reaction system is preferably vacuumed to facilitate removal of the water and other volatiles.
- acid catalysts such as phosphoric acid
- vacuum the latter especially in the final phase of the reaction
- the number of free carboxyl groups or the free amino groups in the polyamide is related to the relative amounts of those used in the preparation of the polyamide
- Carboxylic acid component and diamine component Carboxylic acid component and diamine component.
- the polyamide used according to the invention can either be acid-terminated, amine-terminated or acid-terminated and amine-terminated. It is also possible to use mixtures of these appropriately terminated polyamides.
- Acid-terminated polyamides which can be used according to the invention preferably have the formula (IIa)
- R represents a linear (C 2 to Ci 0) alkylene group, a branched (C 2 to Ci 0) -
- Alkylene group a group * -R 2 -0- (CH 2 CH 2 0) n (CH 2 CHMeO) m -R 3 - *, wherein R 2 and R 3 independently represent a (C 2 to Ci 0) - Alkylene group (in particular ethane-1, 2-diyl or propane-1, 2-diyl) and n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 100, wherein the sum of m + n> 0, or for a Group of formula
- R 4 and R 5 independently of one another are a (C 2 to C 6 ) -alkylene group
- R 2 is, independently of each repeat unit, a C 20 -C 40 -alkylene group
- R 3 is a C 2 oC 40 alkylene group
- n stands for the number of repeat units and is an integer between 10 and 100,000.
- usable amine-terminated polyamides preferably have the formula (IIb),
- R represents a linear (C 2 to Ci 0) alkylene group, a branched (C 2 to Ci 0) -
- Alkylene group a group * -R 2 -0- (CH 2 CH 2 0) n (CH 2 CHMeO) m -R 3 - *, wherein R 2 and R 3 independently represent a (C 2 to Ci 0) - Alkylene group (in particular ethane-1, 2-diyl or propane-1, 2-diyl) and n and m are independently an integer from 0 to 100, wherein the sum of m + n> 0, or for a Group of formula
- R 4 and R 5 independently of one another are a (C 2 to C 6 ) -alkylene group, R 2 is, independently of each repeat unit, a C 20 -C 40 -alkylene group,
- R 3 represents a linear (C 2 to Ci 0) alkylene group, a branched (C 2 to Ci 0) alkylene group or a group * -R 4 -0- (CH 2 CH 2 0) p (CH 2 CHMeO) m -R 5 - *, wherein R 4 and R 5 independently represent a (C 2 to Ci 0) alkylene group (in particular, ethane-1, 2-diyl or propan-1, 2-diyl), and p and m are independently are each an integer from 0 to 100, the sum of m + p> 0, and
- n stands for the number of repeat units and is an integer between 10 and 100,000.
- the amine-terminated polyamides can also be present as ammonio-terminated polyamides.
- the terminal amino groups are quaternized with (Ci to C 20 ) -alkyl groups.
- Amines and acid-terminated polyamides which can be used according to the invention preferably have the formula (IIc)
- R 2 and R 3 independently represent a (C 2 to Ci 0) alkylene group (in particular, ethane-1, 2-diyl or propan-1, 2-diyl) and n and m independently each other is an integer from 0 to 100, the sum of m + n> 0, or a group of the formula
- R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent a (C 2 to C 6 ) -alkylene group
- R 2 is independently of any repeating unit a C 2 oC 40 alkylene group
- n is the number of repeating units and is an integer between 10 and 100,000.
- Preferred polyamides which can be used according to the invention have an acid number of from 0.01 to 8, in particular from 0.05 to 7.
- the acid number is determined by measuring method according to DIN EN ISO 21 14.
- preferred useful polyamides have an amine number of 0.1 to 90,
- the amine number is determined by measuring method according to DIN 53176.
- compositions according to the invention contain the ingredients or active substances in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
- Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media with preferably at least 10% by weight of water, based on the total agent.
- alcohols it is possible in particular to include the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol.
- the agent therefore additionally contains at least one alcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms and 1 to 3
- This additional alcohol is again preferably selected from at least one compound of the group which is formed from ethanol, ethylene glycol,
- Isopropanol 1, 2-propylene glycol, 1, 3-propylene glycol, glycerol, n-butanol, 1, 3-butylene glycol,.
- a most preferred alcohol is ethanol.
- the additional alcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms and 1 to 3 hydroxyl groups is preferably in the composition according to the invention (in particular in the presence of at least one blowing agent) in an amount of 40 wt .-% to 65 wt .-%, in particular 40 wt .-% to 50 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic composition containing.
- organic solvents or a mixture of solvents having a boiling point below 400 ° C in an amount of 0, 1 to 15 weight percent, preferably from 1 to 10 weight percent based on the total agent may be included.
- Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and
- particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are polyethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30 wt .-% based on the total agent.
- Polypropylene glycol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the composition of the invention. If, therefore, a flexible hold is desired, the agents according to the invention preferably contain from 0.01 to 30% by weight of polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol, based on the total agent.
- the agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 1 1.
- the pH range between 2 and 8 is particularly preferred.
- the pH value in the context of this document refers to the pH at 25 ° C., unless stated otherwise.
- the effects according to the invention can be increased by adding at least one (C 2 to C 6 ) trialkyl citrate to the composition according to the invention. It is therefore preferred according to the invention if the agents additionally contain at least one compound of the formula (E)
- R, R 2 and R 3 independently represent a (C 2 to C 6 ) alkyl group.
- Examples of a (C 2 to C 6 ) -alkyl group according to formula (E) are methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, neopentyl, isopentyl, n hexyl.
- the agent according to the invention preferably contains the compounds of the formula (E) in an amount of from 0.01 to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 0.3% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the entire composition.
- isopropyl myristate This is in the inventive compositions preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 1 wt .-%, in particular from 0.05 to 0.3 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the total composition - included.
- the agents according to the invention preferably additionally contain at least one surfactant, nonionic, anionic, cationic, ampholytic surfactants being suitable in principle.
- the group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes.
- the surfactants according to the invention may already have emulsifying activity.
- the use of at least one nonionic surfactant and / or at least one cationic surfactant is preferred in this embodiment of the invention.
- the additional surfactants are in the inventive composition preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the Weight of the agent, included.
- agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.
- Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, one
- Such compounds are, for example
- Polyol fatty acid esters such as the commercial product Hydagen ® HSP (Cognis) or
- R is CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
- R 2 is hydrogen or methyl
- R 3 is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
- w is a number from 1 to 20 .
- Hydroxy mixed ethers as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters, for example the polysorbates,
- R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
- G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
- p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.
- alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have proven to be very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants C 2 -C 30 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil ,
- both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
- "normal” homolog distribution are mixtures of Homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts.
- the use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
- the agents according to the invention contain as surfactant at least one adduct of 15 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular of 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, with a linear or branched (in particular linear) fatty alcohol having 8 to 22
- Carbon atoms are very particularly preferably ceteareth-15,
- Ceteareth-25 or ceteareth-50 which (COGNIS), Cremophor A25 (BASF SE) or Eumulgin ® CS 50 (Cognis) are marketed as 15 Eumulgin ® CS.
- Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,
- Alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 16,
- Sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups
- Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms are alpha-sulfofatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
- esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms,
- R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 0) nR or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 hydrocarbon radical,
- R 7 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3 , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation,
- R 8 CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
- x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10
- X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. It is preferred to use monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (T-VII) in which R 8 CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, amide-ether carboxylic acids,
- Condensation products of C 8 - C 30 - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ® - types Gluadin ® - types Hostapon ® KCG or Amisoft ® - types.
- Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettkladensate.
- cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines.
- Preferred quaternary ammo NiumENSen are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyl trimethylammonium chlorides, Dialkyldimethylammoniumchloride and Trialkylmethylammonium- chlorides.
- the long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as.
- cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride.
- Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
- Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁇ _) in the molecule - carry or -S0 3 ⁇ _) group.
- Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammoniumglycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
- a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known
- Ampholytes are surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 - C 2 4 - alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 3 H group in the molecule and are capable of forming inner salts .
- suitable ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
- Particularly preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the d 2 -C 8 -acy
- the agents according to the invention may optionally additionally contain at least one film-forming polymer and / or setting polymer. These additional polymers are different from the previously defined polyamides.
- Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying.
- Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes.
- Particular preference is given to polymers which have a sufficient solubility in water or water / alcohol mixtures in order to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the agent according to the invention.
- the film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.
- film-forming polymers are understood as meaning polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.
- Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle.
- These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair setting agents,
- Hair mousses, hair waxes, hair sprays can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.
- composition according to the invention may contain at least one film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymer.
- the additional film-forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymers have at least one structural unit containing at least one permanently cationized nitrogen atom.
- Permanently cationized nitrogen atoms are to be understood as meaning those nitrogen atoms which carry a positive charge and thereby form a quaternary ammonium compound.
- Quaternary ammonium compounds are most commonly prepared by reacting tertiary amines with alkylating agents, e.g. Methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also produced ethylene oxide.
- alkylating agents e.g. Methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also produced ethylene oxide.
- alkylating agents e.g. Methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also produced
- composition according to the invention preferably contains at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer, which is preferably selected from at least one polymer of the group formed from non-ionic polymers, cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, zwitterionic polymers and anionic polymers.
- the film-forming and / or setting polymers are in the agent according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 15 wt .-%, most preferably from 2.0 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.
- These quantities also apply to all subsequent preferred types of film-forming and / or setting polymers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention. If differing preferred amounts have been specified below, the latter are considered to be more preferred amounts.
- Particularly preferred according to the invention are those agents which contain at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer selected from at least one polymer of the group which is formed
- nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers, in particular from
- R 2 -H or -CH 3
- anionic polymers having carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups, anionic polyurethanes.
- Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers which are suitable as an additional film-forming and / or setting polymer are those nonionic polymers which comprise at least one of the following structural units
- R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
- R ' represents a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C 4 ) -acyl group
- R "and R” independently represent a (Ci to C 7 ) -alkyl group or a
- R '" represents a linear or branched (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group or a (C 2 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkyl group.
- Preferred nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic hair-fixing polymers are homopolymers or copolymers composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide , Alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, wherein in each case the alkyl groups of these monomers from (Ci to C 3 ) alkyl groups are selected.
- Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers which are particularly suitable for the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one of the following structural units
- R ' represents a hydrogen atom or a (d- to C 30 ) acyl group, in particular a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group.
- nonionic cellulose derivatives are also suitable as film-forming and / or setting polymers which are preferably selected from methylcellulose and in particular from cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropylcellulose (eg hydroxypropylcellulose having a molecular weight from 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is marketed for example under the trade name Nisso Sl ® from Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg ® grades), hydroxyethylcellulose, such as (for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® AQUALON) and Natrosol (Hercules).
- hydroxypropylcellulose eg hydroxypropylcellulose having a molecular weight from 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is marketed for example under the trade name Nisso Sl ® from Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg ® grades
- hydroxyethylcellulose such as (for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ®
- Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
- "permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
- Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
- those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.
- a cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer which is preferably suitable according to the invention is at least one cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer which contains at least one structural element of the formula (M9) and additionally at least one structural element of the formula (M10)
- R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
- R ', R "and R” independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C 30 ) -alkyl group
- X is an oxygen atom or a group NH
- A is an ethane-1,2-diyl group or a propane-1,3-diyl group
- n 1 or 3.
- physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
- Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide, and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69), which, for example, under the trade name Aqua Style ® 300 (28- 32% by weight of active substance in ethanol-water mixture) is sold by ISP.
- the cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers are particularly preferably selected from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.
- Suitable cationic and / or setting polymers are preferably cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.
- Such cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be particularly advantageous for the purposes of the invention, which carry more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain.
- cationic celluloses such cationic celluloses with the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 in turn, are particularly suitable, which are sold for example under the names of Celquat ® H 100, Celquat L 200 ® by the company National Starch.
- Cationic polymers which are particularly preferably used in the context of the invention furthermore include those cationic film-forming and / or cationic consolidating copolymers which contain at least one structural element of the formula (M1 1)
- R is a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group
- physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
- At least one copolymer (c1) is present, which in addition to at least one structural element of the formula (M1 1) additionally comprises a structural element of the formula (M6)
- R is a (Ci to C 4 ) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group.
- the copolymers (c1) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
- physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
- Very particularly preferred cationic film-forming and / or cationic fixing polymers as copolymers (c1) contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol% and in particular 20 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1 1) and 70 to 90 Mol .-%, preferably 75 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 80 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M6).
- the copolymers (c1) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1 1) and (M6) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-% , Contain polymer units due to the incorporation of other monomers.
- N-MethylvinylimidazolA are / inylpyrrolidon copolymers are referred to as Polyquaternium-16, according to INCI Nomenclature and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ® Style , Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, Luviquat.RTM ® FC 550, FC 905 and Luviquat.RTM ® Luviquat.RTM ® HM 552
- N-methylvinylimidazole are / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-44 and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ® Ultra Care available.
- agents according to the invention contain a copolymer (Cl), in particular of the formula (polyl), which has molar masses within a certain range.
- agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer (Cl) has a molecular weight of from 50 to 400 kDa, preferably from 100 to 300 kDa, more preferably from 150 to 250 kDa and in particular from 190 to 210 kDa.
- the agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (c2) which, starting from the copolymer (c1), have structural units of the formula (M7) as additional structural units
- compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain as cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c2) which has at least one structural unit of formula (M1 1-a) and at least one structural unit of formula (M6) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M7)
- the copolymers (c2) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of the structural units of the formula (M1 1-a), (M6) and (M7) into the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers.
- the copolymers (c2) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formulas (M1 1-a), (M6) and (M7).
- component (c2) To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (c2) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
- physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
- a methosulfate be used refer to those N-MethylvinylimidazolA / inylpyrrolidon / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-46 and are for example available under the trade names Luviquat ® Hold by BASF ,
- Very particularly preferred copolymers (c2) contain 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1 1-a) and 30 to 50 mol%, preferably 35 to 45 mol .-% and in particular 40 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M6) and 40 to 60 mol .-%, preferably 45 to 55 mol .-% and in particular 60 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M7).
- agents according to the invention contain a copolymer (c2) which has molecular weights within a certain range.
- agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer (c2) has a molecular weight of 100 to 1000 kDa, preferably from 250 to 900 kDa, more preferably from 500 to 850 kDa and in particular from 650 to 710 kDa.
- the agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (c3) as structural units forming cationic and / or setting cationic polymers which contain structural units as structural units of the formulas (M1 1-a) and (M6), as well as further structural units from the group of the vinylimidazole units and further structural units from the group of the acrylamide and / or methacrylamide units.
- compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as additional cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c3) which has at least one structural unit of formula (M1 1-a) and at least one structural unit of formula (M6) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M10) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M12)
- the copolymers (c3) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1 1-a), (M6), (M8) and (M12) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers.
- the copolymers (c3) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M1 1-a), (M6), (M8) and (M12).
- component (c3) To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (c3) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
- physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
- a methosulfate be used refer to those N-MethylvinylimidazolA / inylpyrrolidonA / inylimidazol / methacrylamide copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-68 and are, for example, from BASF under the tradename Luviquat ® Supreme available.
- Very particularly preferred copolymers (c3) contain 1 to 12 mol%, preferably 3 to 9 mol% and in particular 6 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1 1-a) and 45 to 65 mol%, preferably 50 to 60 mol .-% and in particular 55 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M6) and 1 to 20 mol .-%, preferably 5 to 15 mol .-% and in particular 10 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M8) and 20 to 40 mol .-%, preferably 25 to 35 mol .-% and in particular 29 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M12).
- agents according to the invention contain a copolymer (c3) which has molecular weights within a certain range.
- agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer (c3) has a molecular weight of 100 to 500 kDa, preferably from 150 to 400 kDa, more preferably from 250 to 350 kDa and in particular from 290 to 310 kDa.
- Vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium chloride copolymers such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 under the trade names Luviquat ® Style, Luviquat ® FC 370, Luviquat ® FC 550, Luviquat ® FC 905 and Luviquat ® HM 552 (BASF SE)),
- Vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium copolymers such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 under the trade names Luviquat Care ® (BASF SE)
- BASF SE Luviquat Care ®
- Vinylpyrrolidone vinylcaprolactam / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium terpolymer (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-46 ® under the trade names Luviquat Care or Luviquat ® Hold (BASF SE)),
- Vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide vinyl imidazole / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazoliummethylsulfat- copolymer for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-68 ® under the trade name Luviquat Supreme (BASF SE)
- BASF SE Luviquat Supreme
- cationic polymers which can preferably be used in the agents according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic.
- Chitosans include, for example, chitosans.
- Chitosan and / or chitosan derivatives are very particularly preferably suitable film-forming and / or setting polymers in the context of the present invention.
- Chitosans are biopolymers and are counted among the group of hydrocolloids. Chemically, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight.
- chitosans For the production of chitosans is based on chitin, preferably the shell remains of crustaceans, which are available as cheap raw materials in large quantities.
- the chitin is usually first deproteinized by the addition of bases, demineralized by the addition of mineral acids and finally deacetylated by the addition of strong bases, wherein the molecular weights can be distributed over a broad spectrum.
- bases Preferably used are those having an average molecular weight of 800,000 to 1,200,000 daltons, a Brookfield viscosity (1% by weight in glycolic acid) below 5000 mPas, a degree of deacetylation in the range of 80 to 88% and an ash content of have less than 0.3 wt .-%.
- chitosans as typical cationic biopolymers
- cationically derivatized chitosans such as, for example, quaternization products
- alkoxylated chitosans are also suitable for the purposes of the invention.
- Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise as chitosan derivative (s) neutralization products of chitosan with at least one acid selected from lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these neutralization products.
- chitosan derivative (s) neutralization products of chitosan with at least one acid selected from lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these neutralization products.
- Suitable chitosan are, for example, under the trade names Hydagen ® CMF (1 wt .-% active ingredient in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt .-% glycolic acid, molecular weight 500000 to 5000000 g / mol Cognis), Hydagen ® HCMF (chitosan (80%) deacetylated), molecular weight 50,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, Cognis), Kytamer ® PC (80 wt .-% of active substance of chitosan pyrolidoncarboxylat (INCI name: chitosan PCA), Amerchol) and Chitolam ® NB / commercially 101 freely available.
- Hydagen ® CMF (1 wt .-% active ingredient in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt .-% glycolic acid, molecular weight 500000 to 5000000 g / mol Cognis)
- the chitosan or its derivatives are preferred in the inventive compositions in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.01 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, completely particularly preferably from 0, 1 wt .-% to 1 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition.
- Suitable temporary cationic polymers for the purposes of the invention likewise include those which have at least one structural unit of the formulas (M1-1) to (M1-8) (M1-4)
- Vinylcaprolactam vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer for example, INCI name: Vinyl caprolactam / PVP / di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Gaffix ® under the trade name VC 713 ISP)
- Vinylpyrrolidone A inylcaprolactam / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymer
- Vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example as a 35-39% solids in ethanol in the form of the commercial product Advantage LC E with the INCI name: vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, alcohol, lauryl pyrrolidone (ISP)),
- Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymer for example INCI name: VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer under the trade name Styleze CC-10 (ISP)
- ISP Styleze CC-10
- compositions of the invention may also contain at least one amphoteric polymer as a film-forming and / or setting polymer.
- amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or S0 3 H groups and which are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ' or -S0 3 ' groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or S0 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
- amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ®, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and their simple alkyl esters.
- amphoteric polymers are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred.
- At least one anionic film-forming and / or anionic setting polymer can be used as the film-forming and / or setting polymers.
- the anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
- anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
- the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
- copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer.
- anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
- Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
- Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers.
- a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present.
- This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used.
- crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used.
- crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used.
- Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
- This compound which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (Ci 3 -Ci 4 -lsoparaffin) and
- anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
- Copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid (as 60 wt .-%, for example, as a commercial product Aristoflex ® A 60 with the INCI name VA / Crotonates Copolymer by CIBA in a - marketed dispersion in isopropanol-water)
- Copolymers of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid (as Acrylates Copolymer sold for example under the trade name Luviflex ® Soft having an acid number from 84 to 105 under the INCI name in an about 20 to 30 wt .-% dispersion in water by BASF SE become),
- Polyurethanes having at least one carboxyl group such as a copolymer of isophthalic acid, adipic acid, 1, 6-hexanediol, neopentyl glycol and isophorone diisocyanate as sold under the trade name Luviset PUR with the INCI name Polyurethane-1 from BASF SE).
- Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers.
- a 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ® Stabileze QM.
- the agents according to the invention may contain organic solvents or a mixture of solvents having a boiling point below 400 ° C. in an amount of from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent.
- Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane.
- particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30% by weight, based on the total agent.
- glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed when the agent according to the invention is used. So if a flexible stop is desired, contain the
- agents according to the invention preferably 0.01 to 30 wt .-% glycerol and / or propylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol based on the total agent.
- the agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 1 1.
- the pH range between 2 and 8 is particularly preferred.
- the pH value in the context of this document refers to the pH at 25 ° C., unless stated otherwise.
- compositions of the invention may further contain the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to conventional styling.
- auxiliaries and additives in particular additional care substances are mentioned.
- the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.
- Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids.
- amino acids and amino acid derivatives polymers under the term protein hydrolyzates understood.
- the latter include, for example, polyalanine,
- polyasparagin, Polyserin etc. count Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride.
- ⁇ -amino acids and their derivatives such as ⁇ -alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used.
- the molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
- protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
- Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
- Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) sericin (Pentapharm) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
- silk protein hydrolysates By silk one understands the fibers of the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L).
- the raw silk fiber consists of a double thread fibroin.
- sericin holds this double thread together.
- Silk consists of 70-80% by weight of fibroin, 19-28% by weight of sericin, 0.5-1% by weight of fat and 0.5-1% by weight of dyes and mineral constituents.
- the essential components of sericin are with about 46 wt.% Hydroxyamino acids.
- the sericin consists of a group of 5 to 6 proteins.
- the essential amino acids of sericin are serine (Ser, 37% by weight), aspartate (Asp, 26% by weight), glycine (Gly, 17% by weight), alanine (Ala), leucine (Leu) and tyrosine (Tyr) ,
- the water-insoluble fibroin belongs to the skieroproteins with a long-chain molecular structure.
- the main components of the fibroin are glycine (44% by weight), alanine (26% by weight), and tyrosine (13% by weight). Another important structural feature of the fibroin is the
- “Seidenhydroylsate” distributed.
- hydrolyzed fibroin is distributed with average molecular weights from 350 to 1000, for example, under the trade designation Promois ® Silk.
- Protein hydrolysates of vegetable origin eg. Soybean, almond, pea, potato and
- Wheat protein hydrolysates are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), hydro Lupine ® (Croda), hydro Sesame ® (Croda), Hydro tritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
- protein hydrolysates are preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are, for example, among the
- Lamepon® ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda), Crosilk ® (Croda) or crotein ® (Croda) sold.
- the protein hydrolysates may be present in the agents according to the invention, for example in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of from 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, in each case based on the total application preparation.
- the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.
- vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
- the group of substances referred to as vitamin A include retinol (vitamin A-1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
- the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
- vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and Vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
- the agents preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
- the agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, C, E and H.
- Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
- the addition of panthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the composition of the present invention.
- the compositions according to the invention may contain panthenol instead of or in addition to glycerol and / or propylene glycol.
- the agents according to the invention contain panthenol, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0, 1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total agent.
- compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one plant extract.
- these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
- plant extracts preferred according to the invention particular reference is made to the extracts listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the ingredient declaration of cosmetic products, published by the Industrial Association for Personal Care and Detergent e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt.
- the extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot , Lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.
- the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
- compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.
- the agents according to the invention preferably contain these care substances in amounts of from 0.001 to 2, in particular from 0.01 to 0.5,% by weight, based in each case on the total
- Mono- or oligosaccharides can also be used as a care substance in the compositions according to the invention.
- Both monosaccharides and oligosaccharides can be used.
- the use of monosaccharides is preferred according to the invention.
- those compounds which contain 5 or 6 carbon atoms are preferred.
- Suitable pentoses and hexoses are, for example, ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, fucose and fructose.
- Arabinose, glucose, galactose and fructose are preferably used carbohydrates; Very particular preference is given to using glucose which is suitable both in the D - (+) or L - (-) configuration or as a racemate.
- derivatives of these pentoses and hexoses such as the corresponding onic acids, uronic acids, sugar alcohols and glycosides, can also be used according to the invention.
- Preferred sugars are gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, sugar acid, mannose and mucic acid.
- Preferred sugar alcohols are sorbitol, mannitol and dulcitol.
- Preferred glycosides are the methylglucosides.
- the monosaccharides or oligosaccharides used are usually obtained from natural raw materials such as starch, they usually have the configurations corresponding to these raw materials (for example D-glucose, D-fructose and D-galactose).
- the mono- or oligosaccharides are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.
- UV filters are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
- UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters,
- Cinnamic acid esters Cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
- water-insoluble in the context of the teaching of the invention over the higher effect such water-soluble compounds which differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups.
- water-insoluble are to be understood as meaning those UV filters which dissolve in water at 20 ° C. to not more than 1% by weight, in particular to not more than 0.1% by weight.
- these compounds should be soluble in common cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%. The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.
- the UV filters are usually contained in amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.1-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.
- the composition according to the invention also contains one or more substantive dyes. This allows the treated keratin fiber not only to be temporarily patterned when the agent is applied, but also dyed at the same time. This may be particularly desirable if only a temporary dyeing is desired, for example, with eye-catching fashion colors, which can be removed again by simple washing from the keratinic fiber.
- the agents according to the invention according to this embodiment preferably contain the substantive dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
- Oxidation dye precursors are. Oxidation dye precursors are classified into so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.
- the agents may furthermore contain all active ingredients, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations.
- compositions according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for styling agents, for example in the form of gels, creams, solutions which can be applied to the hair as a lotion or pump or aerosol spray, or other preparations suitable for use on the hair are suitable.
- the agents according to the invention are preferably designed as pump spray, aerosol spray, pump foam or aerosol foam.
- the agents according to the invention are packaged in a dispensing device, which is either an additionally filled with a propellant compressed gas container ("aerosol container”) or a non-aerosol container.
- a dispensing device which is either an additionally filled with a propellant compressed gas container ("aerosol container”) or a non-aerosol container.
- the pressurized gas containers with the aid of which a product is distributed by the internal gas pressure of the container via a valve, are defined as "aerosol containers”.
- Non-aerosol container is inversely to the aerosol definition under a container
- agents according to the invention are present as aerosol hair foam or aerosol hair spray.
- the agent according to the invention therefore preferably additionally contains at least one propellant.
- compositions according to the invention which are in the form of an aerosol product can be prepared in a conventional manner.
- all constituents of the composition according to the invention with the exception of the blowing agent, are introduced into a suitable pressure-resistant container. This is then closed with a valve. By conventional techniques, finally, the desired amount of blowing agent is introduced.
- blowing agents suitable according to the invention are selected, for example, from N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 , air, alkanes having 3 to 5
- Carbon atoms such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, and mixtures thereof.
- said alkanes, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as sole blowing agent.
- the invention expressly also includes the co-use of
- Propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons but especially the fluorocarbons.
- the propellant is in the inventive compositions of the embodiment as aerosol spray preferably in an amount of 30 to 60 wt .-% - based on the weight of the total composition - included.
- mixtures of propane and butane as the sole blowing agent in a weight ratio of propane to butane of from 20:80 to 15:85. These mixtures are again preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 30 to 55% by weight the weight of the entire agent - used.
- Butane according to the invention is understood to mean n-butane, isobutane and mixtures of n-butane and isobutane.
- Propellants are for example selected from N 2 0, dimethyl ether, C0 2 , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof.
- blowing agents suitable according to the invention are selected, for example, from N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 , air, alkanes having 3 to 5
- Carbon atoms such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, and mixtures thereof.
- said alkanes, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as sole blowing agent.
- the invention expressly also includes the co-use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but especially the fluorocarbons.
- the sizes of the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution can be set for a given spraying device.
- Propellant preferably in amounts of 1 to 35 wt .-%, based on the total product.
- Amounts of 2 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 3 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
- isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant, which is incorporated into the compositions according to the invention and is packaged in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container.
- at least one further propellant other than isopentane is made up, which builds up a higher pressure in the two-chamber aerosol container than the isopentane.
- the blowing agents of the second chamber are preferably selected from N 2 O, dimethyl ether, C0 2 , air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane) and mixtures thereof.
- Aerosol hair sprays and aerosol hair foams are characterized in particular by giving treated hair a strong hold and volume.
- a second aspect of the invention is a process for remodeling hairdrous hair in which
- the hair is dry before the start of remodeling and already has a shape fixed by at least one polymer
- the polymer according to (i) is a polyamide which is a reaction product of at least one dimerized Fatty acid and at least one diamino compound.
- the shaping can be done using appropriately tempered air,
- a hair dryer or curling iron for example, by means of a hair dryer or curling iron, or with the help of appropriately tempered flat iron.
- the hair can be moistened with a liquid immediately before the remodeling step. This is particularly advantageous if the hair for forming on forming aids (eg hair curlers) are wound and this process should be facilitated. If forming aids are used, then it is again preferable to apply heat as long as the hairs are on the forming aids. Then the forming aids are carefully removed.
- compositions were provided:
- PA1 polyamide obtained by polymerizing a dimerized fatty acid (with 36
- Diaminopolyether (acid number: 1, 4; amine number: 6.8, glass transition temperature: -15 ° C., melting temperature: 142 ° C., elastic modulus: 30, yield MPa: 4.5, break MPa: 10, elongation%: 600)
- PA2 polyamide obtained by polymerizing a dimerized fatty acid (with 36
- Diaminopolyether (acid number: 6.5, amine number: 0.7, glass transition temperature: -35 ° C., melting temperature: 180 ° C., elastic modulus: 85, yield MPa: 6, break Mpa: 9, elongation%: 600)
- PA3 polyamide obtained by polymerizing a dimerized fatty acid (with 36
- Standardized hair strands of the company Kerling (Art. No. 827560) of the hair type "European Natural, Color 6/0" of a length (L max ) of 220 mm and a weight of 0.6 g were used.
- the strands were washed with a 12.5 wt .-% sodium laurethsulphat solution.
- the hair strands were dried overnight in a drying oven at 318K.
- compositions 0.18 g were applied to one strand of hair and massaged. The tress was then wound on a winder (Fripac-medis, 0 7mm, Art. No. D-1203) and dried overnight at room temperature.
- the winder was carefully removed and the tress hung.
- the lengths of the curls were each measured (L 0 ) and the strands placed in a climatic chamber. There they became stored at 294 K and a relative humidity of 85% over a period of 6 h and then measure the lengths of the curls again (L t ).
- HHCR high-humidity curl retention
- the hair was dried in air. If they were slightly cross-linked by the styling agent, the hair was separated and carefully combed through two times. The strands were then wound on winder again (Fripac-medis, 0 7 mm, Art. No. D-1203) and the hair strands with winder heated to a temperature of 180 ° C.
- the winder was carefully removed and the tress hung.
- the lengths of the curls were each measured (L 0 ) and the strands placed in a climatic chamber. There they were stored at 294 K and a relative humidity of 85% over a period of 6 h and then measured again the lengths of the curls (L t ).
- the high-humidity curl retention of the remodeled strand was calculated according to the above formula and for each composition the arithmetic mean was calculated from the HHCR values of the 5 test strands. Then, the test strands were classified into remodelability categories derived from the HHCR of the remodeled strand in% of the initial HHCR
- hairstyles with very strong hairstyle hold can be formed and strengthened in the context of a remodeling process.
- styling composition V1 according to the invention with the commercially available polymer Amphomer provides a strong hairstyle hold the Ninfrisur, but these can not be transformed and fixed in the context of remodeling into a new hairstyle.
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| DE102009045840A DE102009045840A1 (de) | 2009-10-20 | 2009-10-20 | Verfahren zur Remodellierbarkeit einer Frisur |
| PCT/EP2010/064547 WO2011047942A2 (fr) | 2009-10-20 | 2010-09-30 | Procédé pour obtenir une coiffure remodelable |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| EP2490661A2 true EP2490661A2 (fr) | 2012-08-29 |
Family
ID=43618646
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP10759669A Ceased EP2490661A2 (fr) | 2009-10-20 | 2010-09-30 | Procédé pour obtenir une coiffure remodelable |
Country Status (4)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| US (1) | US20120199155A1 (fr) |
| EP (1) | EP2490661A2 (fr) |
| DE (1) | DE102009045840A1 (fr) |
| WO (1) | WO2011047942A2 (fr) |
Family Cites Families (10)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| NL93409C (fr) | 1954-12-13 | |||
| US2955219A (en) | 1959-02-16 | 1960-10-04 | Rauland Corp | Electron discharge device |
| GB1117129A (en) * | 1965-09-18 | 1968-06-19 | Yardley And Company Ltd | A cosmetic preparation |
| DE1492262A1 (de) * | 1965-09-20 | 1970-02-26 | Yardley & Company Ltd | Haarreinigungs- und -fixiermittel |
| DE1617947C3 (de) * | 1966-02-23 | 1974-10-31 | Yardley & Co. Ltd., London | Haarreinigungs und Fixiermittel |
| DE1617043A1 (de) * | 1966-12-13 | 1971-03-18 | Akrongold Harold S | Hydrophile Gele mit Waschmitteleigenschaften |
| DE19738866A1 (de) | 1997-09-05 | 1999-03-11 | Henkel Kgaa | Schaumarme Tensidmischungen mit Hydroxymischethern |
| FR2785183B1 (fr) | 1998-11-04 | 2002-04-05 | Oreal | COMPOSITION TINCTORIALE CONTENANT UN COLORANT DIRECT CATIONIQUE ET UNE PYRAZOLO-[1,5-a]- PYRIMIDINE A TITRE DE BASE D'OXYDATION, ET PROCEDES DE TEINTURE |
| US6268466B1 (en) * | 1999-01-04 | 2001-07-31 | Arizona Chemical Company | Tertiary amide terminated polyamides and uses thereof |
| FR2811886B1 (fr) * | 2000-07-18 | 2003-01-31 | Oreal | Composition de coiffage des cheveux permettant un remodelage de la coiffure et procede de remodelage de la coiffure utilisant une telle composition |
-
2009
- 2009-10-20 DE DE102009045840A patent/DE102009045840A1/de not_active Withdrawn
-
2010
- 2010-09-30 WO PCT/EP2010/064547 patent/WO2011047942A2/fr not_active Ceased
- 2010-09-30 EP EP10759669A patent/EP2490661A2/fr not_active Ceased
-
2012
- 2012-04-20 US US13/451,675 patent/US20120199155A1/en not_active Abandoned
Non-Patent Citations (1)
| Title |
|---|
| See references of WO2011047942A2 * |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| DE102009045840A1 (de) | 2011-04-21 |
| US20120199155A1 (en) | 2012-08-09 |
| WO2011047942A3 (fr) | 2012-06-14 |
| WO2011047942A2 (fr) | 2011-04-28 |
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