[go: up one dir, main page]

EP2054015A1 - Agents contenant des bioquinones et des bétaïnes - Google Patents

Agents contenant des bioquinones et des bétaïnes

Info

Publication number
EP2054015A1
EP2054015A1 EP07788454A EP07788454A EP2054015A1 EP 2054015 A1 EP2054015 A1 EP 2054015A1 EP 07788454 A EP07788454 A EP 07788454A EP 07788454 A EP07788454 A EP 07788454A EP 2054015 A1 EP2054015 A1 EP 2054015A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
hair
acid
carnitine
composition according
preferred
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP07788454A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
Elisabeth Poppe
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP2054015A1 publication Critical patent/EP2054015A1/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A61K8/355—Quinones
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4946—Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q7/00—Preparations for affecting hair growth
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing at least one biochinone and at least one particular betaine.
  • the invention further relates to a method of activating hair growth using the composition and to the use of the hair growth activator and to increase ATP synthesis.
  • Hair follicle cells undergo a genetically determined cycle of growth, regression, and resting phase.
  • the hair follicle is thus the only organ that constantly renews itself and thus, depending on the respective growth phase, has a unique metabolism.
  • the synthesis of structural keratins is also linked to this cycle.
  • This cycle is controlled by a small, highly specialized cell population in the hair bulb, the dermal papilla cells, which is characterized by a unique, complex system of molecular signals specific to each phase of the hair cycle (Botchkarev VA et al. (2003) J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc 8 : 46-55).
  • Hepatocyte Growth Factor (HGF) and Keratinocyte Growth Factor (KGF) are important growth factors that are released by the dermal papilla to control the proliferation of hair keratinocytes responsible for the hair keratin synthesis. They are also characteristic markers for the anagen phase, in which keratin synthesis is also maximal. In addition, it should be noted that hair proliferation decreases the proliferation capacity of the hair follicle cells. In a potentially keratin-activating and anti-aging substance HGF and / or KGF should therefore be induced. TGF-beta2 and IGFBP-3 act to inhibit growth and are characteristic markers for the catagen phase in which keratin synthesis in the follicle is switched off. These markers should be repremet in a substance that promotes keratin synthesis.
  • HGF Hepatocyte Growth Factor
  • KGF Keratinocyte Growth Factor
  • Hair keratins represent the most important structuring part of hair.
  • the importance of hair keratins for the healthy hair fiber is shown by the fact that genetic mutations in the hair keratins hHb6 and hHb1 lead to strong changes, such as hair fiber deformation and hair breakage (Monilethix).
  • mice with a point mutation of the gene Ha3 show a naked phenotype without a fur coat (nude mice).
  • hair has a psychosocial function that should not be underestimated.
  • they serve as a means of interpersonal communication and represent a sign of one's own Individuality. Changes, even age-related, in hair growth or hair structure can lead to a massive impairment of the self-esteem of the affected person.
  • the aim of the present invention was therefore to find suitable active ingredients for the preparation of cosmetic preparations, which are applied topically to the scalp, and there activate keratin synthesis and thus hair growth, and strengthen the inner hair structure.
  • an agent in particular for the treatment of hair, which contains a) at least one biochinone and b) at least one particular betaine.
  • Biochinones have been used mainly as an antioxidant in skin cosmetics.
  • the application WO200401095 describes the use of a formulation which, inter alia, may contain ubiquinone as an antioxidant to improve the surface texture of the hair.
  • EP-A-1 059 081 claims the use of ubiquinone for reducing oxidative damage to the hair.
  • the applications EP-A-1 059 077 and EP-A-1 059 080 use ubiquinone to improve the hair structure, this is a purely superficial physical effect which is based on improving the combability.
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore an agent, in particular for the treatment of hair, containing a) at least one biochinon and b) at least one betaine of the formula (I),
  • R 1 , R 2 , and R 3 independently of one another represent:
  • R 4 , R 5 , R 6 , R 7 , R 8 and R 9 independently of one another represent:
  • R 10 is hydrogen, -CH 3 or a C 2 -C 30 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical and R 11 is -CH 3 or a C 2 -C 30 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical .
  • - x, y and z are independently an integer from 0 to 12 with the proviso that at least one of the parameters x, y or z is different from 0 and
  • - Y " is COO, " SO 3 " or a hydroxy group in combination with a physiologically acceptable anion.
  • Hair treatment with these agents has been found to stimulate keratin synthesis of growth-related hair keratins and thus to promote hair growth. Furthermore, the hair treatment with these agents led to a strengthening of the inner hair structure.
  • Another advantage of the invention lies in the fact that the agents according to the invention contribute to increasing ATP synthesis.
  • betaines are also to be understood as meaning those substances in which the mentioned characteristic groups are present only in the case of the dissolved substance and within certain pH ranges of the solution.
  • all physiologically acceptable salts of the betaines according to the invention, in particular also the mixed salts of the betaines can be used according to the invention.
  • Mixed salts are solid solutions of various substances. For the generally accepted definition of mixed crystals as solid solutions, reference is made, for example, to HR Christen, Fundamentals of General and Inorganic Chemistry, Sauerlander and Salle, 5th edition, 1977, on page 245 and expressly incorporated by reference.
  • the inorganic mixed salts such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, hydroiodides, sulfates, sulfites, hydrogen sulfates, hydrogen sulfites, carbonates and bicarbonates, mono-, di-, triphosphates or mixtures of phosphates and mixtures of these mixed salts of the betaines according to the invention can be used .
  • the mixed salts of the betaines according to the invention can be used with organic carboxylic acids.
  • Suitable examples of such acids are, for example, formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid , Elaidic, maleic, fumaric, muconic, citraconic, mesaconic, camphoric, benzoic, 4-hydroxybenzoic, o, m, p-phthalic, naphthoic, toluoic, hydratropic, atropic, salicylic, cinnamic, isonicotinic, nicotinic, bicarbamic, 4.4 '-Dicyano-6,6'-binico
  • organic polyfunctional carboxylic acids which, in addition to at least one carboxy group, additionally have at least one hydroxyl group and / or at least one amino group.
  • organic carboxylic acids are glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, etc., which are attributable to the edible acids.
  • amino acids such as histidine, arginine, lysine, citrulline, etc. are among the polyfunctional organic acids which can be used as mixed salts with the active compounds (I) according to the invention.
  • the mixed salts in the form of their individual components.
  • the mixing ratio of the mixed salts according to the invention can be between 1: 50 and 50: 1, preferably between 10: 1 and 1:10, and very particularly preferably based on the respective molar masses of the individual components (betaine of the formula (I) / mixed salt-forming substance) between 3: 1 and 1: 3.
  • Examples of particularly suitable active compounds of the formula (I) according to the invention and their derivatives according to the invention and mixed salts are: L-carnitine, L-carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl L-carnitine, 3-O-lauroyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, 3-O-octanoyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, 3-O-palmitoyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, L-carnitine fumarate, taurine, tauryl lysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithithate, lysyl taurine and ornithyl taurine, betalaine, 1, 1- Dimethylproline, hercynin (N-alpha, N-alpha, N-alpha-trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine), ergothionein (thionein, 2-mercapto-N-alpha, N-alpha, N-alpha-trimethyl-L -histi
  • isomers such as diastereomers, enantiomers, isocyanate trans isomers, optical isomers, conformational isomers and racemates can be used according to the invention.
  • the active ingredient (I) used is L-carnitine, L-carnitine tartrate or taurine.
  • the compositions according to the invention may contain both a compound according to formula (I) and several, especially two, compounds of formula (I).
  • compositions according to the invention contain the betaine (s) in amounts of from 0.005 to 15%, preferably in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% and in particular in an amount of from 0.05 to 5%, based on their weight.
  • the or the biochinone (s) is (are) in the inventive compositions - by weight - in an amount of 0.0000005 to 2%, preferably in an amount of 0.000001 to 1% and in particular in an amount of 0 , 00001 to 0.5%.
  • suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s).
  • Ubiquinones serve the organisms as electron carriers in the respiratory chain. They are located in the mitochondria where they allow the cyclic oxidation and reduction of substrates of the citric acid cycle.
  • the preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:
  • the betaine (s) of the formula (I) and the biochinone (s) are in a ratio of 2: 1 to 10,000: 1, preferably in a ratio of 5: 1 to 5000: 1 and in particular in one Ratio of 10: 1 and 1000: 1 used.
  • the agents furthermore contain at least one emulsifier and / or at least one dialkyl ether.
  • the addition of one or more of these substances positively influences the availability of active ingredients in the hair root.
  • Suitable emulsifiers according to the invention are the following compounds:
  • Alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group
  • Sugar component are preferred, mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
  • glucose phospholipids e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls® ® PGPH)
  • Emulsifiers which are particularly suitable according to the invention are polyethylene glycol alkyl ethers having alkyl chain lengths of 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 1000, preferably 1 to 500 and in particular 1 to 100.
  • Particularly preferred polyethylene glycol ethers for the purposes of the invention are the substances known by the INCI name ceteareth-6, ceteareth-9, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30, ceteareth-25, steareth-10 and steareth-20.
  • emulsifiers for the purposes of the invention are C 2 -C 22 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol.
  • Particularly suitable are PEG-20 glyceryl stearates, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate and glycereth-2-cocoate.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of from 0.01 to 25% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 20% by weight and in particular in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the entire remedy.
  • suitable dialkyl ethers are di-n-alkyl ethers containing a total of 5 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably 8 and 40 and especially with 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE), di-n decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n- dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-
  • the agents according to the invention contain the dialkyl ethers preferably in amounts of 0.01-50 wt .-%, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 20 wt .-% and in particular in amounts of 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy.
  • the active ingredient combination according to the invention is applied to the keratinic fiber, in particular human hair, as well as to the skin, there are no fundamental restrictions.
  • emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (called phase inversion emulsions, PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, coarse, unstable, one or more multi-phase shaking mixtures, gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols suitable.
  • PIT phase inversion emulsions
  • microemulsions and multiple emulsions coarse, unstable, one or more multi-phase shaking mixtures
  • Ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols.
  • Water and alcohol may be present in the aqueous alcoholic base in a weight ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1.
  • Water and aqueous-alcoholic mixtures which contain up to 50% by weight, in particular up to 25% by weight, of alcohol, based on the mixture of alcohol / water, may be preferred bases according to the invention.
  • the pH of these preparations can in principle be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 2 and 7, with values of 3 to 5 being particularly preferred. To adjust this pH, virtually any acid or base that can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used.
  • acids are used as acids.
  • By-acids are understood to mean those acids which are absorbed as part of the usual food intake and have positive effects on the human organism.
  • Eat acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid.
  • citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred.
  • Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.
  • Preparations remaining on the skin and hair have proven to be particularly effective and may therefore represent preferred embodiments of the teaching according to the invention. Under the skin and the hair remaining according to the invention are understood such preparations that are not in the context of treatment after a period of a few seconds to one hour with the help of water or an aqueous solution again from the skin or rinsed out of the hair , Rather, the preparations remain until the next wash on the skin or hair.
  • the compositions according to the invention are formulated as a hair conditioner, hair tonic, conditioner, hair conditioner, hair setting agent, hair spray or hair gel.
  • the preparations of the invention according to this embodiment can be rinsed with water or an at least predominantly aqueous agent after this exposure time; however, they are preferably left on the hair as stated above. It may be preferred to apply the preparation according to the invention to the hair before the application of a cleansing agent, a waving agent or other hair treatment agents. In this case, the preparation of the invention serves as a color protection for the following applications.
  • agent according to the invention is also a shampoo.
  • the agents are present as a microemulsion.
  • microemulsions are also understood to be so-called "PIT" emulsions. These emulsions are, in principle, systems with the 3 components water, oil and emulsifier, which are oil-in-water (O / W) at room temperature.
  • phase inversion temperature When these systems are heated, microemulsions are formed in a certain temperature range (commonly referred to as the phase inversion temperature or "PIT") which, on further heating, convert to water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions O / W emulsions are again formed, but are also present at room temperature as microemulsions having a mean particle diameter of less than 400 nm, in particular having a particle diameter of about 100-300 nm, details of these very stable, low-viscosity systems for which The term "PIT emulsions" has generally prevailed, can be found in a variety of publications for the Deputy the publications in Angew. Chem. 97, 655-669 (1985) and Adv. Colloid Interface, pages 58, 119-149 (1995).
  • PIT phase inversion temperature
  • microparticles or "PIT" emulsions which have an average particle diameter of about 200 nm.
  • the preparation of the microemulsions according to the invention can be carried out, for example, by first determining the phase inversion temperature of the system by heating a sample of the conventionally prepared emulsion and using a conductivity meter to determine the temperature at which the conductivity decreases sharply.
  • the decrease in the specific conductivity of the initially present O / W emulsion generally decreases over a temperature range from 2 to 8 ° C. from originally more than 1 mS / cm to values below 0.1 mS / cm. This temperature range then corresponds to the phase inversion temperature range.
  • the emulsion of oil component, nonionic emulsifier, at least parts of the water and optionally other components initially prepared as usual can be heated to a temperature which is within or above the phase inversion temperature range, then allowed to cool and optionally add other components as well as the remaining water.
  • the preparation of the microemulsion can be carried out directly at a temperature which is within or above the phase inversion temperature range. The microemulsion thus prepared is then cooled to a temperature below the phase inversion temperature range, usually room temperature.
  • the effect can be further increased with polymers.
  • polymers are both natural and synthetic polymers which may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.
  • Cationic polymers are polymers which have groups in the main and / or side chain which may be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • “permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group are bonded via a CI_ 4 hydrocarbon group to a synthesized from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof, polymer backbone have been found to be particularly suitable.
  • R 18 -H or -CH 3
  • R 18 is a methyl group
  • R 19 , R 20 and R 21 are methyl groups m has the value 2.
  • Suitable physiologically acceptable counter ions X include halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preferred are halide ions, particularly chloride.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is the, if desired cross-linked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium- 37.
  • crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose.
  • Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight.
  • Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI Designation: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.
  • Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (PI) contain, as nonionic monomer units, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C-. 4- alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C- ⁇ - 4 -alkyl ester. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ® SC.
  • Celquat ® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ® ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
  • honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
  • Products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM 55067 (Manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; di- quaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).
  • Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers such as those available under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as those under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and
  • Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.
  • Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ® LM 200), known polymers.
  • Gaffix ® VC 713 manufactured by ISP:
  • the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ® HS 110, Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS 370 available are.
  • cationic polymers are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationically.
  • chitosan and its derivatives are preferred as Hydagen CMF ®, Hydagen HCMF ®, Kytamer ® PC and Chitolam ® NB / 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names.
  • Chitosans are deacetylated chitins, which are commercially available in different degrees of deacetylation and different degrees of degradation (molecular weights).
  • Particularly suitable chitosans have a degree of deacetylation of at least 80% and a molecular weight of 5 10 5 to 5 10 6 (g / mol).
  • the chitosan must be converted into the salt form. This can be done by dissolving in dilute aqueous acids.
  • Suitable acids are both mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid and organic acids, for example low molecular weight carboxylic acids, polycarboxylic acids and hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • higher molecular weight alkyl sulfonic acids or alkyl sulfuric acids or organophosphoric acids can be used, provided that they have the required physiological compatibility.
  • Suitable acids for converting the chitosan into the salt form are, for example, acetic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid, benzoic acid or salicylic acid. Preference is given to using low molecular weight hydroxycarboxylic acids, for example glycolic acid or lactic acid.
  • anionic polymers which can support the action of the active ingredient according to the invention are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for all or some of the sulfonic acid group to be present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
  • the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid which is available for example under the name Rheothik ® 11-80 is commercially.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the substances listed above.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group wholly or partly as Sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt is present.
  • This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used.
  • Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
  • Simulgel ® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate 80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proven to be particularly effective according to the invention.
  • anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers.
  • a 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name Stabileze® QM ® commercially available.
  • amphoteric polymers can be used as constituents as polymers for increasing the action of the active ingredient according to the invention.
  • amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO or -SO 3 ⁇ groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ®, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple esters.
  • Amphomer ® is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple esters.
  • amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially
  • R 22 and R 23 independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R 24 , R 25 and R 26 independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A () is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid
  • R 27 and R 28 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
  • the agents according to the invention may furthermore contain nonionogenic polymers.
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF).
  • Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers are also preferred nonionic polymers.
  • Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and
  • Methylhydroxypropylcellulose as for example sold under the trademarks Culminal ® and Benecel ® (AQUALON).
  • Siloxanes Polyvinylpyrrolidones, as sold for example under the name Luviskol ® (BASF). Siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. under normal pressure.
  • Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups. Glycosidically substituted silicones according to EP 0612759 B1.
  • the preparations comprise a plurality of, in particular two, different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.
  • the term polymer also means special preparations of polymers, such as spherical polymer powders.
  • Various methods are known for producing such microspheres from different monomers, for example by special polymerization processes or by dissolving the polymer in a solvent and spraying it into a medium in which the solvent can evaporate or diffuse out of the particles.
  • Suitable polymers are, for example, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, polyolefins, polyesters or polyamides.
  • Particularly suitable are those spherical polymer powders whose primary particle diameter is less than 1 micron.
  • Such products based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are, for example, under the trademark Polytrap ® Q5-6603 (Dow Corning) in the trade.
  • Other polymer powders for example based on polyamides (nylon 6, nylon 12) having a particle size of 2 - (10 microns (90%) and a specific surface area of about 10 m 2 / g under the trade name Orgasol ® 2002 DU Nat Cos Atochem SA, Paris).
  • spherical polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for example, the polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) from SEPPIC or (Plastic Powder A) from NIKKOL, the styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP) from NIKKOL, the polyethylene and polypropylene AKZO powder (ACCUREL EP 400) or silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605) from Dow Corning or spherical cellulose powders.
  • the polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) from SEPPIC or (Plastic Powder A) from NIKKOL
  • Plastic Powder FP styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers
  • ACCUREL EP 400 polyethylene and polypropylene AKZO powder
  • silicone polymers Silicone Powder X2-1605
  • the polymers are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.
  • the effect can be further increased by the use of protein hydrolysates and their derivatives.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • protein hydrolysates amino acid mixtures or individual amino acids obtained otherwise, such as, for example, arginine, lysine, histidine or pyrroglutamic acid, may also be used in their place.
  • derivatives of protein hydrolysates for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed for example under the names Lamepon ® (Cognis), Gluadin ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda) or Crotein ® (Croda).
  • Cationized protein hydrolysates can also be used according to the invention, the protein hydrolyzate on which the animal is based, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collages or algae , or from biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates, can originate.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • the hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of protein hydrolyzates or amino acids becomes frequently using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300 Cocodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiCl, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropy
  • the agents according to the invention contain the protein hydrolysates and their derivatives in amounts of 0.01-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, In particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are very particularly preferred.
  • the agents according to the invention contain surfactants.
  • surfactants is understood to mean surface-active substances which carry an anionic or cationic charge in the molecule. Also, both anionic and cationic charge may be present in the molecule. These zwitterionic or amphoteric surface-active substances can also be used according to the invention. Furthermore, the surface-active substances may also be non-ionic.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. Example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanol ammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,
  • Ethercarbon Acid the formula RO- (CH2-CH2 ⁇ ) ⁇ -CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear
  • Alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x 0 or 1 to 16, acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
  • Sulfobernsteinklamono- and dialkyl ester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefinsulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
  • alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12, mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE -A-37 25 030, sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene-propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,
  • esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms, Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (T1),
  • OX in the R 29 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 30 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 29 or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 31 R 32 R 33 R 34 , where R 31 to R 34 independently of one another represent a C 1 to C 4 hydrocarbon radical, is a sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula (TII)
  • R 35 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3 , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (TIN),
  • R 36 CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10
  • X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal.
  • monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts.
  • Monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (TIN) in which R 36 CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms are preferably used.
  • Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates are described for example in EP-B1 0 561 825, EP-B1 0 561 999, DE-A1 42 04 700 or AKBiswas et al. in J.Am.Oil. Chem. Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and FUAhmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990).
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule and sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl ester having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO () or -SO 3 ' " ' group in the molecule
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N , N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammoniumglycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts
  • suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the C 2
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ® LS, LT Dehydol ® types (Cognis), C 2 -C 3 o-Fett Acidnono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerol,
  • Alkyl polyglycosides can only contain one particular alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these compounds are starting from natural fats and oils or
  • sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides.
  • sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used.
  • Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and Sucrose.
  • Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
  • alkylpolyglycosides according to the invention contain on average 1, 1 to 5 sugar units.
  • Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 8.
  • alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs may contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.
  • the preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • oxo-alcohols compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is usually preferred to start from the production of these substances from native plant or animal raw materials, so as to obtain substance mixtures with different, depending on the particular raw material alkyl chain lengths.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • "normal” homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or Alcohols are used as catalysts.
  • the use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • surfactants are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkyl methylammonium chlorides, eg.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • the alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is.
  • the cationic surfactants are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the effect of the active ingredient combination according to the invention can be further optimized by fatty substances.
  • Fatty substances are fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be present both in solid form and in liquid form in aqueous dispersion, and to understand natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
  • the fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linoleic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, the z.
  • the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil;
  • the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • the amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. In a preferred embodiment, the amount is 0.5-10% by weight, very particularly preferably amounts of 1-5% by weight.
  • Fatty alcohols which may be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 - C 30 -, preferably C 10 - C 22 - and particularly preferably C 2 - C 22 - carbon atoms.
  • Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ®, Crodacol ®, eg Crodacol ® CS Novol ®, 24 to acquire Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb 12 ®, ® Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ® commercially.
  • wool wax alcohols as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used according to the invention.
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight.
  • the natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies which can increase the action of the active ingredient according to the invention include, for example: vegetable oils.
  • vegetable oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.
  • other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
  • Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • Stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate, caprate Kokosfettalkohol- / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC)
  • n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate Cetiol ® J 600
  • isopropyl palmitate IPP Rilanit ®
  • Oleyl Oleate Cetiol ®
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,
  • Mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90-018 ®, Monomuls 90 L12 ® or Cutina ® MD.
  • the amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.
  • the total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually from 6 to 45% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 10-35% by weight are preferred according to the invention.
  • hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid.
  • suitable hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of ⁇ -hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid.
  • Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols.
  • the esters of Ci 2 -Ci 5 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred.
  • Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ® EniChem, Augusta Industriale.
  • the amount of hydroxycarboxylic acid ester used is 0.1-15% by weight, based on the agent, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, and very particularly preferably 0.1-5% by weight.
  • vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A 1 ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the preparations according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.
  • Vitamin B 3 • Vitamin B 3 .
  • the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid and panthenol.
  • panthenol is preferred.
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, meanwhile, the trivial name biotin has prevailed.
  • Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.
  • Panthenol and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • silicone oils are particularly preferably used in the compositions of the invention.
  • Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, they simultaneously affect the grip of dry and wet skin as well as the shine. The skin is generally described as pleasantly silky and supple without the skin having an unpleasant greasy shine.
  • the advantages of the active ingredient combination according to the invention and the silicone oils complement each other in an outstanding manner. Therefore, the use of silicone oils together with the combination of active substances according to the invention is very particularly preferred.
  • silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean several structures of organosilicon compounds. Initially, these are understood to mean the dimethiconols (S1).
  • Dimethiconols form the first group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (S1-I):
  • Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (S1-II):
  • radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CHz) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, -C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • R 1 and R 2 are methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred.
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000.
  • the molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D.
  • the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 0 C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970.
  • Preferred viscosities are 1000-5000000 cps, particularly preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.
  • the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethiconols may already be present as an emulsion.
  • the corresponding emulsion of the dimethiconols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art.
  • both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions.
  • the emulsions of the dimethiconols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.
  • the droplet size of the emulsified particles is according to the invention from 0.01 ⁇ m to 10000 ⁇ m, preferably from 0.01 to 100 ⁇ m, very particularly preferably from 0.01 to 20 ⁇ m and most preferably from 0.01 to 10 microns.
  • the particle size is determined by the method of light scattering. If branched dimethiconols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethiconols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%.
  • Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF- R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Speciales), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 H
  • these compositions contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and especially 0 , 5 to 5 wt.% Dimethiconol based on the composition.
  • Dimethicones (S2) form the second group of silicones, which are particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as also be cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (S2-I):
  • Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (S2 - II):
  • the radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • R 1 and R 2 are methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred.
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000.
  • the molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D.
  • the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 0 C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970.
  • Preferred viscosities are 1000-5000000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.
  • the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethicones may already be present as an emulsion.
  • the corresponding emulsion of Dimethicone both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicones from these and those skilled in the art be prepared known conventional methods for emulsification.
  • both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions.
  • the emulsions of dimethicones can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.
  • the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.01 ⁇ m to 10000 ⁇ m, preferably 0.01 to 100 ⁇ m, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 ⁇ m and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns.
  • the particle size is determined by the method of light scattering. If branched dimethicones are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethicones are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%.
  • a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%.
  • the degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethicones can be very particularly preferred.
  • these compositions contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.25 to 7.5% by weight, and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt.% Dimethiconol based on the composition.
  • Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form another group of preferred silicones.
  • Dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formulas:
  • Branched dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the structural formula (S3-IM): R 2 I PE - (SiR 1 2 ) - O - (SiR 2 2 - O -) x - Si - O - (SiR 2 2 - O -) y - (SiR 1 2 ) - PE (S3 - III)
  • the radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • R 1 and R 2 are methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred.
  • PE stands for a polyoxyalkylene radical.
  • Preferred polyoxyalkylene radicals are derived from ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycerol.
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000.
  • the molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D.
  • the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 0 C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970.
  • Preferred viscosities are 1000-5000000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.
  • the teaching of the invention also includes that the Dimethiconcopolymere can already be present as an emulsion.
  • the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicone copolyols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art.
  • both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions.
  • the emulsions of dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.
  • the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.01 ⁇ m to 10000 ⁇ m, preferably 0.01 to 100 ⁇ m, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 ⁇ m and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns.
  • the particle size is determined by the method of light scattering. If branched dimethicone copolyols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethicone copolyols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%.
  • a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%.
  • the degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes.
  • both low-branched and highly branched dimethicone copolyols can be very particularly preferred.
  • these compositions contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 7.5% by weight, and especially from 0 , 5 to 5 wt.% Dimethiconecopolyol based on the composition.
  • Aminofunctional silicones or also called amodimethicones (S4), are silicones which have at least one (optionally substituted) amino group.
  • Such silicones may e.g. by the formula (S4-I)
  • R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms
  • Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R 1 HZ, wherein R 1 is a divalent connecting group attached to hydrogen and the Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group, carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms;
  • "a” assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2
  • "b” assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3
  • a” + "b” is less than or equal to 3
  • "c” is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3
  • x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to
  • Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, A-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl,
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, - CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group.
  • a possible formula for Z is NH (CH 2 ) Z NH 2 , wherein z is 1 or more.
  • Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZ NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, which structure includes diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl.
  • Z is most preferably a -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 radical.
  • Z is - N (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZ NX 2 or -NX 2 , wherein each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
  • Q is most preferably a polar, amino-functional radical of the formula CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 .
  • "a” assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2
  • "b” assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3
  • "a” + “b” is less than or equal to 3
  • the molar ratio of the R 3 Q b SiO (4. a - b) / 2 units to the R 0 SiO (4 _ c y 2 units is in the range of about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20.
  • the various variable substituents in the above formula can be used for the various silicone components in the silicone mixture are different.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-II)
  • G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH 3 , -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , - (_ / H ((_ / H 3 ) 2 , - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 ⁇ a is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0 b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1, m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10, R ' is a monovalent radical selected from o -N (R ") - CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R 11 J 2 o
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-III)
  • silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.
  • compositions according to the invention which are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-IV) are also particularly preferred.
  • n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
  • silicones are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred in which the amino-functional silicone has an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g ,
  • the amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.
  • these compositions contain 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.%, And especially 0 , 5 to 5 wt.% Amodimethicone based on the composition.
  • the invention also encompasses the recognition that a mixture of at least 2 different silicones can be used in the compositions according to the invention.
  • Preferred mixtures of different silicones are, for example, dimethicones and dimethiconols, linear dimethicones and cyclic dimethiconols.
  • Very particularly preferred mixtures of silicones contain at least one cyclic dimethiconol and / or at least one dimethicone, at least one further noncyclic dimethicone and / or at least one further dimethiconol.
  • Most preferred mixtures contain at least one amino-functional silicone and at least one of the mixtures described above. If different silicones are used as a mixture, the mixing ratio is largely variable.
  • all silicones used for mixing are used in a ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5 in the case of a binary mixture.
  • a ratio of 3: 1 to 1: 3 is particularly preferred.
  • Very particularly preferred mixtures contain all the silicones contained in the mixture largely in a ratio of about 1: 1, in each case based on the amounts used in wt.%.
  • these compositions contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and especially from 0.5 to 5 % By weight of silicone mixture based on the composition.
  • a UV filter (I) can additionally be used.
  • the UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters serve for product protection. They prevent fading, for example, the colored phases of the fittings. At the same time, the UV protection filters also protect the washed skin. In particular, by the use together with polymers increased deposition of UV filters on the skin during washing is achieved. This leaves after rinsing the skin and an increased amount on the skin, thus leading to an increased effect.
  • the UV filters can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ® M 40, Uvasorb MET ®, ® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ®), 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1- yl-methanesulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylpheny
  • Methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-Isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of the N- ⁇ (2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl ⁇ -acrylamide.
  • water-insoluble UV filters are those which dissolve in water at not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight, at 20 ° C. Furthermore, these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%). The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.
  • UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.
  • UV filters have the general structure U - Q.
  • the structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group.
  • This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function ,
  • Compounds from which the structural part U can be derived are, for example, substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters,
  • Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.
  • the structural parts U can in principle be selected such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be in both the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the structural part U also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably selected so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
  • the structural part Q preferably contains, as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group.
  • This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, especially an alkylene group of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a compound between the structural portion U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • the group Q has the general structure - (CH 2 ) X -N + R 1 R 2 R 3 X ' , where x is an integer from 1 to 4, R 1 and R 2 independently of one another are Ci_ 4 Alkyl groups, R 3 is a Ci_ 22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X 'is a physiologically acceptable anion.
  • x preferably represents the number 3
  • R 1 and R 2 each represent a methyl group and R 3 represents either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain with 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18 , Carbon atoms.
  • Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid-trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).
  • the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters.
  • the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.
  • the UV filters (I) are contained in the compositions according to the invention usually in amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.
  • the effect of the drug combination can also be increased by the combined use with plant extracts.
  • these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant.
  • According to the invention are especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat , Kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, ginger root, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea, Foeniculum vulgaris and Apium graveolens prefers.
  • composition according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.
  • alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water.
  • the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
  • compositions according to the invention may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts. It has also been found that the effect of the active ingredient combination according to the invention in cosmetic compositions in combination with substances which contain primary or secondary amino groups, can be further increased.
  • amino compounds include ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanediol and basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine or histidine.
  • these amines can also be used in the form of the corresponding salts with inorganic and / or organic acids, such as, for example, ammonium carbonate, ammonium citrate, ammonium oxalate, ammonium tartrate or lysine hydrochloride.
  • the amines are used together with the active compound according to the invention in ratios of from 1:10 to 10: 1, preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 3, and very particularly preferably in stoichiometric amounts.
  • compositions according to the invention can furthermore contain a perfume component, preferably a perfume oil.
  • Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (aniseed, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (macis, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, pines), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are ester type products, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are known e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate,
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, to the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones such as the Jonone, oc- ⁇ somethylionon and Methylcedrylketon to the Alcohols include anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams.
  • fragrance oils are suitable as perfume oils, such as sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, cinnamon oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, Olibanöl, Galbanumöl, Labolanumöl and Lavender oil.
  • bergamot oil dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, ⁇ -hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, Sandelice, citron oil, tangerine oil, orange oil, Allylamylglycolat, Cyclovertal, Lavandinöl, Muskateller Sage oil, ⁇ -damascone, geranium oil Bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldeine gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllat, irot
  • the perfume oils are generally added to the composition in an amount of from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight and in particular from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • the perfume oils may be added to the composition in liquid form, neat or diluted with a solvent.
  • Suitable solvents for this purpose are, for.
  • ethanol isopropanol
  • diethylene glycol monoethyl ether glycerol
  • propylene glycol 1, 2-butylene glycol
  • dipropylene glycol diethyl phthalate
  • triethyl citrate isopropyl myristate, etc.
  • the agents according to the invention may in principle contain all other components known to those skilled in the art of such cosmetic compositions.
  • auxiliaries and additives are, for example:
  • Thickening agents such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. Polyvinyl alcohol, Ca, Mg or Zn soaps, structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid, perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide, cyclodextrins,
  • Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, fiber-structure-improving agents, especially mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose, quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2 alkylimidazolinium methosulfate, defoamers such as silicones, dyes for staining the agent, Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
  • Light stabilizers in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and
  • Triazines other substances for adjusting the pH, such as ⁇ - and ⁇ -
  • Active ingredients such as allantoin and bisabolol,
  • Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates,
  • Ceramides are understood as meaning N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogs of such lipids (so-called pseudo-ceramides),
  • Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
  • Reducing agents such as B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine,
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
  • Polysaccharides such as fucose or rhamnose.
  • the active ingredient combination according to the invention is used in agents for dyeing keratinic fibers.
  • the combination of active substances according to the invention can in principle be added directly to the colorant.
  • the application of the active ingredient to the dyed keratinic fiber takes place in a separate step either directly after the actual dyeing process or in separate treatments, optionally also days or weeks after the dyeing process.
  • dyeing process comprises all processes known to those skilled in the art, in which a colorant is applied to the hair, which may have been moistened, and left on the hair either for a period of a few minutes to about 45 minutes and then with water or a surfactant-containing agent is rinsed or left completely on the hair.
  • Developer type oxidation dye precursors are typically primary aromatic amines having another para or ortho position free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used.
  • Suitable developer components are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis (2-hydroxy-ethyl) -p phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5,6-tetrahydaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy -2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-
  • Particularly advantageous developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2,4 , 5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.
  • coupler type oxidation dye precursors m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcin and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are usually used.
  • coupler components are m-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4 - aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5 - (2'-hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) -phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1, 3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) -benzene, 3- (ethylamino) - 4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, o-aminophenol and its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives,
  • Di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as, for example, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-
  • Chlororesorcinol 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene
  • Pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino
  • Naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 7
  • Morpholine derivatives such as, for example, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine,
  • Indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole,
  • Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-
  • coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1, 5, 2,7- and 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-naphthylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4- Chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-anninophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • Particularly suitable substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds as well as 1, 4-bis- ( ⁇ - hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylannin-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitro
  • Direct dyes found in nature include, for example, henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, sawnwood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alcano root.
  • oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes each represent uniform compounds. Rather, in the hair colorants according to the invention, due to the production process for the individual dyes, in minor amounts, other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, eg. As toxicological, must be excluded.
  • indoles and indolines and their physiologically acceptable salts are used as precursors of naturally-analogous dyes.
  • These groups may carry further substituents, e.g. Example in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group.
  • Particularly advantageous properties have 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline and 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N- Propyl 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.
  • N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and especially 5, 6-dihydroxyindoline and N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, and in particular the 5,6-dihydroxyindole. dihydroxyindole.
  • indoline and indole derivatives in the colorants used in the process according to the invention both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts with inorganic or organic acids, eg.
  • hydrochlorides, sulfates and hydrobromides are used as the hydrochlorides.
  • amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids and ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids.
  • Arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine are again particularly preferred among the ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids.
  • a very particularly preferred amino acid is arginine, especially in free form, but also used as the hydrochloride.
  • Hair dyes especially if the dyeing is oxidative, be it with atmospheric oxygen or other oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, are usually weakly acidic to alkaline, d. H. adjusted to pH values in the range of about 5 to 1 1.
  • the colorants contain alkalizing agents, usually alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines.
  • Preferred alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2 -met.hylbut.anol and triethanolamine and alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides.
  • monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol are preferred within the scope of this group.
  • the use of ⁇ -amino acids such as ⁇ -aminocaproic acid as an alkalizing agent is also possible.
  • oxidizing agents in particular hydrogen peroxide or its addition products of urea, melamine or sodium borate
  • oxidation with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant may be preferred.
  • enzymes which enzymes are used both for the production of oxidizing per-compounds and for enhancing the effect of a small amount of existing oxidizing agents, or enzymes, the electrons from suitable developer components (reducing agent) Transmitted atmospheric oxygen.
  • Oxidases such as tyrosinase, ascorbate oxidase and laccase but also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyruvate oxidase are preferred. Furthermore, the procedure is called to increase the effect of small amounts (eg, 1% and less, based on the total agent) of hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases.
  • the preparation of the oxidizing agent is then mixed with the preparation with the dye precursors immediately prior to dyeing the hair.
  • the resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range of 6 to 10. Particularly preferred is the use of the hair dye in a weakly alkaline medium.
  • the application temperatures may range between 15 and 40 ° C., preferably at the temperature of the scalp. After a contact time of about 5 to 45, especially 15 to 30, minutes, the hair dye is removed by rinsing of the hair to be dyed.
  • the Nach Warren with a shampoo is omitted if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, eg. As a dyeing shampoo was used.
  • the preparation with the dye precursors can be applied to the hair without prior mixing with the oxidation component. After an exposure time of 20 to 30 minutes, the oxidation component is then applied, if appropriate after an intermediate rinse. After a further exposure time of 10 to 20 minutes is then rinsed and nachshampooniert if desired.
  • the corresponding agent is adjusted to a pH of about 4 to 7.
  • an air oxidation is initially desired, wherein the applied agent preferably has a pH of 7 to 10.
  • the use of acidified peroxydisulfate solutions may be preferred as the oxidizing agent.
  • the formation of the coloration can be supported and increased by adding certain metal ions to the agent.
  • metal ions are, for example, Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ , Mn 2+ , Mn 4+ , Li + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ and Al 3+ .
  • Particularly suitable are Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ and Mn 2+ .
  • the metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt.
  • Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates.
  • a second subject of the invention is the use of the hair growth activating agent according to the invention.
  • the use of the agent for increasing the secretion of the growth factors HGF and KGF and for increasing the gene expression of growth-relevant hair keratins is preferred.
  • Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of the agent for increasing the gene expression of the hair keratins hHa4, hHa3-l, hHa2, hHb6 and the cytokeratins for strengthening the internal structure of human hair.
  • a third aspect of the invention is a method for activating hair growth in which the composition according to the invention is applied to the hair or the hairy skin.
  • Preferred according to the invention is a method for increasing the release of the growth factors HGF and KGF and for increasing the gene expression of growth-relevant hair keratins.
  • Particularly preferred according to the invention is a method for increasing the gene expression of the hair keratins hHa4, hHa3-l, hHa2, hHb6 and the cytokeratins for strengthening the internal structure of human hair.
  • a fourth subject of the invention is the use of the agent according to the invention for ATP synthesis.
  • Water ad 100 the following commercial products are used: INCI name: Aqua, Glycol Distearate, Glycerin, Laureth-4, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Formic Acid; Active substance: 40% in water; Cognis INCI name: PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate; Cognis INCI name: distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol; Active substance: 65 - 72%; Cognis 1-methyl-2-nortallowalkyl-3-tallow fatty acid amidoethylimidazolinium nethanesulfate; INCI name: Quaternium-27, propylene glycol; Active ingredient: 74 - 77%; Goldschmidt-Rewo trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride; INCI name: Aqua, Cetrimonium Chloride; Active ingredient: 24 - 26%; Cognis INCI name: Polyquaternium-37, Propylene Glycol Dicap

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des agents cosmétiques destinés notamment au traitement capillaire et contenant au moins une bétaïne spéciale et au moins une bioquinone. Le traitement capillaire effectué au moyen de ces agents se traduit par une activation de la croissance des cheveux, un renforcement de la structure interne du cheveu et une augmentation de la synthèse d'ATP.
EP07788454A 2006-09-06 2007-08-16 Agents contenant des bioquinones et des bétaïnes Ceased EP2054015A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE200610042243 DE102006042243A1 (de) 2006-09-06 2006-09-06 Mittel, enthaltend Biochinone und Betaine
PCT/EP2007/058484 WO2008028775A1 (fr) 2006-09-06 2007-08-16 Agents contenant des bioquinones et des bétaïnes

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2054015A1 true EP2054015A1 (fr) 2009-05-06

Family

ID=38657109

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP07788454A Ceased EP2054015A1 (fr) 2006-09-06 2007-08-16 Agents contenant des bioquinones et des bétaïnes

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP2054015A1 (fr)
DE (1) DE102006042243A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2008028775A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP5702537B2 (ja) * 2010-01-15 2015-04-15 橋本　厚 縮毛矯正剤及び縮毛矯正方法
EP4011355A1 (fr) * 2017-12-29 2022-06-15 L'oreal Compositions pour modifier la couleur des cheveux

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2002097116A (ja) * 2000-09-19 2002-04-02 Shiseido Co Ltd 細胞賦活剤
WO2002074265A1 (fr) * 2001-03-19 2002-09-26 Hans Schwarzkopf Gmbh & Co. Kg Agent de soin capillaire comprenant des betaines
FR2841129A1 (fr) * 2002-06-21 2003-12-26 Oreal Utilisation de taurine ou d'hypotaurine pour le traitement topique de la figidification de la gaine conjoctive et compositions en comportant
DE102004014621A1 (de) 2004-03-25 2005-10-13 H.C. Starck Gmbh Organische Verbindungen mit Kern-Schale-Struktur
DE102004014612A1 (de) * 2004-03-23 2005-10-13 Beiersdorf Ag Taurin enthaltende Zubereitungen mit verbessertem Wasserbindungvermögen

Family Cites Families (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS5913710A (ja) * 1982-07-15 1984-01-24 Shiseido Co Ltd 養毛料
WO1997002041A1 (fr) * 1995-07-03 1997-01-23 Crandall Wilson T Traitement transcutane et oral de l'alopecie androgene
JPH11292753A (ja) * 1998-04-14 1999-10-26 Dowa Yakushou Kk 頭部皮膚外用剤
DE10036797A1 (de) * 2000-07-28 2002-02-07 Beiersdorf Ag Verwendung von Kombinationen mit einem Gehalt an Carnitinen
DE10036798A1 (de) * 2000-07-28 2002-02-07 Beiersdorf Ag Mittel zur Behandlung der Haare und der Kopfhaut
DE102005011957A1 (de) * 2005-03-14 2006-12-07 Henkel Kgaa Neues Haarbehandlungsmittel, enthaltend L-Carnitin oder L-Carnitinderivate

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2002097116A (ja) * 2000-09-19 2002-04-02 Shiseido Co Ltd 細胞賦活剤
WO2002074265A1 (fr) * 2001-03-19 2002-09-26 Hans Schwarzkopf Gmbh & Co. Kg Agent de soin capillaire comprenant des betaines
FR2841129A1 (fr) * 2002-06-21 2003-12-26 Oreal Utilisation de taurine ou d'hypotaurine pour le traitement topique de la figidification de la gaine conjoctive et compositions en comportant
DE102004014612A1 (de) * 2004-03-23 2005-10-13 Beiersdorf Ag Taurin enthaltende Zubereitungen mit verbessertem Wasserbindungvermögen
DE102004014621A1 (de) 2004-03-25 2005-10-13 H.C. Starck Gmbh Organische Verbindungen mit Kern-Schale-Struktur

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
See also references of WO2008028775A1 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2008028775A1 (fr) 2008-03-13
DE102006042243A1 (de) 2008-03-27

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
EP1326577B1 (fr) Nouvelle utilisation d'acides carboxyliques a chaine courte
EP1326579B1 (fr) Nouvelle utilisation d'acides carboxyliques a chaine courte
DE10107216A1 (de) Wirkstoffkombination aus Kohlenwasserstoffen und Ölen in kosmetischen Mitteln
EP1812118A1 (fr) Revitalisants capillaires comprenant des imidazolines et des dimethiconols ou des silicones a fonction amino
DE102004062429A1 (de) Wirkstoffgemische zur Restrukturierung keratinischer Fasern
EP1771144B1 (fr) Agents de conditionnement des cheveux contenant des silicones a fonction amine
EP1761232B2 (fr) Produits de lavage des cheveux contenant des silicones aminofonctionnels
DE10061420A1 (de) Neue Verwendung von Polyhydroxyverbindungen
EP2054016A1 (fr) Agents contenant des bioquinones et des hydrolysats de protéine
WO2008028773A1 (fr) Agents contenant des bioquinones et de la purine ou des dérivés de purine
DE102004045274A1 (de) Wirkstoffgemisch zur Behandlung keratinischer Fasern
EP2054015A1 (fr) Agents contenant des bioquinones et des bétaïnes
DE102004046686A1 (de) Perlenextrakt in kosmetischen Mitteln
DE102006002767A1 (de) Kosmetische Mittel enthaltend ein Polysiloxan und ein Esteröl und weitere Wirkstoffe
EP2054018A1 (fr) Agents contenant des bioquinones et des émulsifiants spéciaux
EP2054014A1 (fr) Agents contenant des bioquinones et des dérivés de 2-furanone
EP1786382A1 (fr) Extraits utilises comme agents de structuration
DE102006042228A1 (de) Neue Verwendung von Pantolacton

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
PUAI Public reference made under article 153(3) epc to a published international application that has entered the european phase

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009012

17P Request for examination filed

Effective date: 20090110

AK Designated contracting states

Kind code of ref document: A1

Designated state(s): AT BE BG CH CY CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GB GR HU IE IS IT LI LT LU LV MC MT NL PL PT RO SE SI SK TR

AX Request for extension of the european patent

Extension state: AL BA HR MK RS

RIN1 Information on inventor provided before grant (corrected)

Inventor name: POPPE, ELISABETH

Inventor name: SCHULZE ZUR WIESCHE, ERIK

17Q First examination report despatched

Effective date: 20091221

TPAC Observations filed by third parties

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: EPIDOSNTIPA

DAX Request for extension of the european patent (deleted)
REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: DE

Ref legal event code: R003

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: THE APPLICATION HAS BEEN REFUSED

18R Application refused

Effective date: 20121201