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EP1974079A2 - Assemblage par collage et procédé et dispositif de fabrication - Google Patents

Assemblage par collage et procédé et dispositif de fabrication

Info

Publication number
EP1974079A2
EP1974079A2 EP06802265A EP06802265A EP1974079A2 EP 1974079 A2 EP1974079 A2 EP 1974079A2 EP 06802265 A EP06802265 A EP 06802265A EP 06802265 A EP06802265 A EP 06802265A EP 1974079 A2 EP1974079 A2 EP 1974079A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
adhesive
fabric
seam
material strip
strip
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP06802265A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Anthony Angelino
Ronald Boser
David Welsch
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Cupid Foundations Inc
Original Assignee
Cupid Foundations Inc
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Cupid Foundations Inc filed Critical Cupid Foundations Inc
Publication of EP1974079A2 publication Critical patent/EP1974079A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/24—Hems; Seams
    • A41D27/245—Hems; Seams made by welding or gluing
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C5/00—Machines, appliances, or methods for manufacturing corsets or brassieres
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
    • B29C65/48—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding
    • B29C65/4805—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding characterised by the type of adhesives
    • B29C65/481—Non-reactive adhesives, e.g. physically hardening adhesives
    • B29C65/4815—Hot melt adhesives, e.g. thermoplastic adhesives
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
    • B29C65/48—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding
    • B29C65/4805—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding characterised by the type of adhesives
    • B29C65/483—Reactive adhesives, e.g. chemically curing adhesives
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
    • B29C65/48—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding
    • B29C65/50—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding using adhesive tape, e.g. thermoplastic tape; using threads or the like
    • B29C65/5042—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding using adhesive tape, e.g. thermoplastic tape; using threads or the like covering both elements to be joined
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
    • B29C65/48—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding
    • B29C65/50—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding using adhesive tape, e.g. thermoplastic tape; using threads or the like
    • B29C65/5092—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding using adhesive tape, e.g. thermoplastic tape; using threads or the like characterised by the tape handling mechanisms, e.g. using vacuum
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
    • B29C65/48—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding
    • B29C65/52—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding characterised by the way of applying the adhesive
    • B29C65/522—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding characterised by the way of applying the adhesive by spraying, e.g. by flame spraying
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
    • B29C65/48—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding
    • B29C65/52—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding characterised by the way of applying the adhesive
    • B29C65/524—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding characterised by the way of applying the adhesive by applying the adhesive from an outlet device in contact with, or almost in contact with, the surface of the part to be joined
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
    • B29C65/48—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding
    • B29C65/52—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding characterised by the way of applying the adhesive
    • B29C65/526—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding characterised by the way of applying the adhesive by printing or by transfer from the surfaces of elements carrying the adhesive, e.g. using brushes, pads, rollers, stencils or silk screens
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
    • B29C65/78—Means for handling the parts to be joined, e.g. for making containers or hollow articles, e.g. means for handling sheets, plates, web-like materials, tubular articles, hollow articles or elements to be joined therewith; Means for discharging the joined articles from the joining apparatus
    • B29C65/7802—Positioning the parts to be joined, e.g. aligning, indexing or centring
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/001—Joining in special atmospheres
    • B29C66/0012—Joining in special atmospheres characterised by the type of environment
    • B29C66/0014—Gaseous environments
    • B29C66/00141—Protective gases
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/01—General aspects dealing with the joint area or with the area to be joined
    • B29C66/05—Particular design of joint configurations
    • B29C66/10—Particular design of joint configurations particular design of the joint cross-sections
    • B29C66/11—Joint cross-sections comprising a single joint-segment, i.e. one of the parts to be joined comprising a single joint-segment in the joint cross-section
    • B29C66/114—Single butt joints
    • B29C66/1142—Single butt to butt joints
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/40—General aspects of joining substantially flat articles, e.g. plates, sheets or web-like materials; Making flat seams in tubular or hollow articles; Joining single elements to substantially flat surfaces
    • B29C66/41—Joining substantially flat articles ; Making flat seams in tubular or hollow articles
    • B29C66/43—Joining a relatively small portion of the surface of said articles
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/70—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts characterised by the composition, physical properties or the structure of the material of the parts to be joined; Joining with non-plastics material
    • B29C66/72—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts characterised by the composition, physical properties or the structure of the material of the parts to be joined; Joining with non-plastics material characterised by the structure of the material of the parts to be joined
    • B29C66/729—Textile or other fibrous material made from plastics
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/80—General aspects of machine operations or constructions and parts thereof
    • B29C66/82—Pressure application arrangements, e.g. transmission or actuating mechanisms for joining tools or clamps
    • B29C66/822—Transmission mechanisms
    • B29C66/8221—Scissor or lever mechanisms, i.e. involving a pivot point
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/80—General aspects of machine operations or constructions and parts thereof
    • B29C66/82—Pressure application arrangements, e.g. transmission or actuating mechanisms for joining tools or clamps
    • B29C66/822—Transmission mechanisms
    • B29C66/8227—Transmission mechanisms using springs
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/80—General aspects of machine operations or constructions and parts thereof
    • B29C66/82—Pressure application arrangements, e.g. transmission or actuating mechanisms for joining tools or clamps
    • B29C66/824—Actuating mechanisms
    • B29C66/8242—Pneumatic or hydraulic drives
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/80—General aspects of machine operations or constructions and parts thereof
    • B29C66/83—General aspects of machine operations or constructions and parts thereof characterised by the movement of the joining or pressing tools
    • B29C66/834—General aspects of machine operations or constructions and parts thereof characterised by the movement of the joining or pressing tools moving with the parts to be joined
    • B29C66/8341—Roller, cylinder or drum types; Band or belt types; Ball types
    • B29C66/83431—Roller, cylinder or drum types; Band or belt types; Ball types rollers, cylinders or drums cooperating with bands or belts
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/80—General aspects of machine operations or constructions and parts thereof
    • B29C66/84—Specific machine types or machines suitable for specific applications
    • B29C66/841—Machines or tools adaptable for making articles of different dimensions or shapes or for making joints of different dimensions
    • B29C66/8416—Machines or tools adaptable for making articles of different dimensions or shapes or for making joints of different dimensions of different thickness
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/80—General aspects of machine operations or constructions and parts thereof
    • B29C66/87—Auxiliary operations or devices
    • B29C66/872—Starting or stopping procedures
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/80—General aspects of machine operations or constructions and parts thereof
    • B29C66/87—Auxiliary operations or devices
    • B29C66/874—Safety measures or devices
    • B29C66/8746—Detecting the absence of the articles to be joined
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/90—Measuring or controlling the joining process
    • B29C66/91—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the temperature, the heat or the thermal flux
    • B29C66/914—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the temperature, the heat or the thermal flux by controlling or regulating the temperature, the heat or the thermal flux
    • B29C66/9141—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the temperature, the heat or the thermal flux by controlling or regulating the temperature, the heat or the thermal flux by controlling or regulating the temperature
    • B29C66/91411—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the temperature, the heat or the thermal flux by controlling or regulating the temperature, the heat or the thermal flux by controlling or regulating the temperature of the parts to be joined, e.g. the joining process taking the temperature of the parts to be joined into account
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/90—Measuring or controlling the joining process
    • B29C66/91—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the temperature, the heat or the thermal flux
    • B29C66/919—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the temperature, the heat or the thermal flux characterised by specific temperature, heat or thermal flux values or ranges
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/90—Measuring or controlling the joining process
    • B29C66/91—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the temperature, the heat or the thermal flux
    • B29C66/919—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the temperature, the heat or the thermal flux characterised by specific temperature, heat or thermal flux values or ranges
    • B29C66/9192—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the temperature, the heat or the thermal flux characterised by specific temperature, heat or thermal flux values or ranges in explicit relation to another variable, e.g. temperature diagrams
    • B29C66/91921—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the temperature, the heat or the thermal flux characterised by specific temperature, heat or thermal flux values or ranges in explicit relation to another variable, e.g. temperature diagrams in explicit relation to another temperature, e.g. to the softening temperature or softening point, to the thermal degradation temperature or to the ambient temperature
    • B29C66/91931—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the temperature, the heat or the thermal flux characterised by specific temperature, heat or thermal flux values or ranges in explicit relation to another variable, e.g. temperature diagrams in explicit relation to another temperature, e.g. to the softening temperature or softening point, to the thermal degradation temperature or to the ambient temperature in explicit relation to the fusion temperature or melting point of the material of one of the parts to be joined
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/90—Measuring or controlling the joining process
    • B29C66/91—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the temperature, the heat or the thermal flux
    • B29C66/919—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the temperature, the heat or the thermal flux characterised by specific temperature, heat or thermal flux values or ranges
    • B29C66/9192—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the temperature, the heat or the thermal flux characterised by specific temperature, heat or thermal flux values or ranges in explicit relation to another variable, e.g. temperature diagrams
    • B29C66/91921—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the temperature, the heat or the thermal flux characterised by specific temperature, heat or thermal flux values or ranges in explicit relation to another variable, e.g. temperature diagrams in explicit relation to another temperature, e.g. to the softening temperature or softening point, to the thermal degradation temperature or to the ambient temperature
    • B29C66/91931—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the temperature, the heat or the thermal flux characterised by specific temperature, heat or thermal flux values or ranges in explicit relation to another variable, e.g. temperature diagrams in explicit relation to another temperature, e.g. to the softening temperature or softening point, to the thermal degradation temperature or to the ambient temperature in explicit relation to the fusion temperature or melting point of the material of one of the parts to be joined
    • B29C66/91933—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the temperature, the heat or the thermal flux characterised by specific temperature, heat or thermal flux values or ranges in explicit relation to another variable, e.g. temperature diagrams in explicit relation to another temperature, e.g. to the softening temperature or softening point, to the thermal degradation temperature or to the ambient temperature in explicit relation to the fusion temperature or melting point of the material of one of the parts to be joined higher than said fusion temperature
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
    • B29C65/02—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by heating, with or without pressure
    • B29C65/14—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by heating, with or without pressure using wave energy, i.e. electromagnetic radiation, or particle radiation
    • B29C65/1403—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by heating, with or without pressure using wave energy, i.e. electromagnetic radiation, or particle radiation characterised by the type of electromagnetic or particle radiation
    • B29C65/1406—Ultraviolet [UV] radiation
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
    • B29C65/48—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding
    • B29C65/4805—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding characterised by the type of adhesives
    • B29C65/483—Reactive adhesives, e.g. chemically curing adhesives
    • B29C65/484—Moisture curing adhesives
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
    • B29C65/48—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding
    • B29C65/4805—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding characterised by the type of adhesives
    • B29C65/483—Reactive adhesives, e.g. chemically curing adhesives
    • B29C65/4845—Radiation curing adhesives, e.g. UV light curing adhesives
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/70—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts characterised by the composition, physical properties or the structure of the material of the parts to be joined; Joining with non-plastics material
    • B29C66/71—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts characterised by the composition, physical properties or the structure of the material of the parts to be joined; Joining with non-plastics material characterised by the composition of the plastics material of the parts to be joined
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/70—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts characterised by the composition, physical properties or the structure of the material of the parts to be joined; Joining with non-plastics material
    • B29C66/72—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts characterised by the composition, physical properties or the structure of the material of the parts to be joined; Joining with non-plastics material characterised by the structure of the material of the parts to be joined
    • B29C66/727—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts characterised by the composition, physical properties or the structure of the material of the parts to be joined; Joining with non-plastics material characterised by the structure of the material of the parts to be joined being porous, e.g. foam
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/70—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts characterised by the composition, physical properties or the structure of the material of the parts to be joined; Joining with non-plastics material
    • B29C66/73—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts characterised by the composition, physical properties or the structure of the material of the parts to be joined; Joining with non-plastics material characterised by the intensive physical properties of the material of the parts to be joined, by the optical properties of the material of the parts to be joined, by the extensive physical properties of the parts to be joined, by the state of the material of the parts to be joined or by the material of the parts to be joined being a thermoplastic or a thermoset
    • B29C66/739—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts characterised by the composition, physical properties or the structure of the material of the parts to be joined; Joining with non-plastics material characterised by the intensive physical properties of the material of the parts to be joined, by the optical properties of the material of the parts to be joined, by the extensive physical properties of the parts to be joined, by the state of the material of the parts to be joined or by the material of the parts to be joined being a thermoplastic or a thermoset characterised by the material of the parts to be joined being a thermoplastic or a thermoset
    • B29C66/7392—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts characterised by the composition, physical properties or the structure of the material of the parts to be joined; Joining with non-plastics material characterised by the intensive physical properties of the material of the parts to be joined, by the optical properties of the material of the parts to be joined, by the extensive physical properties of the parts to be joined, by the state of the material of the parts to be joined or by the material of the parts to be joined being a thermoplastic or a thermoset characterised by the material of the parts to be joined being a thermoplastic or a thermoset characterised by the material of at least one of the parts being a thermoplastic
    • B29C66/73921—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts characterised by the composition, physical properties or the structure of the material of the parts to be joined; Joining with non-plastics material characterised by the intensive physical properties of the material of the parts to be joined, by the optical properties of the material of the parts to be joined, by the extensive physical properties of the parts to be joined, by the state of the material of the parts to be joined or by the material of the parts to be joined being a thermoplastic or a thermoset characterised by the material of the parts to be joined being a thermoplastic or a thermoset characterised by the material of at least one of the parts being a thermoplastic characterised by the materials of both parts being thermoplastics
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/90—Measuring or controlling the joining process
    • B29C66/93—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the speed
    • B29C66/934—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the speed by controlling or regulating the speed
    • B29C66/93451—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the speed by controlling or regulating the speed by controlling or regulating the rotational speed, i.e. the speed of revolution
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/90—Measuring or controlling the joining process
    • B29C66/94—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the time
    • B29C66/949—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling the time characterised by specific time values or ranges
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/90—Measuring or controlling the joining process
    • B29C66/95—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling specific variables not covered by groups B29C66/91 - B29C66/94
    • B29C66/954—Measuring or controlling the joining process by measuring or controlling specific variables not covered by groups B29C66/91 - B29C66/94 by measuring or controlling the thickness of the parts to be joined
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29K—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES B29B, B29C OR B29D, RELATING TO MOULDING MATERIALS OR TO MATERIALS FOR MOULDS, REINFORCEMENTS, FILLERS OR PREFORMED PARTS, e.g. INSERTS
    • B29K2067/00—Use of polyesters or derivatives thereof, as moulding material
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29K—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES B29B, B29C OR B29D, RELATING TO MOULDING MATERIALS OR TO MATERIALS FOR MOULDS, REINFORCEMENTS, FILLERS OR PREFORMED PARTS, e.g. INSERTS
    • B29K2075/00—Use of PU, i.e. polyureas or polyurethanes or derivatives thereof, as moulding material
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29K—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES B29B, B29C OR B29D, RELATING TO MOULDING MATERIALS OR TO MATERIALS FOR MOULDS, REINFORCEMENTS, FILLERS OR PREFORMED PARTS, e.g. INSERTS
    • B29K2077/00—Use of PA, i.e. polyamides, e.g. polyesteramides or derivatives thereof, as moulding material
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29K—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES B29B, B29C OR B29D, RELATING TO MOULDING MATERIALS OR TO MATERIALS FOR MOULDS, REINFORCEMENTS, FILLERS OR PREFORMED PARTS, e.g. INSERTS
    • B29K2311/00—Use of natural products or their composites, not provided for in groups B29K2201/00 - B29K2309/00, as reinforcement
    • B29K2311/10—Natural fibres, e.g. wool or cotton
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29L—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASS B29C, RELATING TO PARTICULAR ARTICLES
    • B29L2031/00—Other particular articles
    • B29L2031/48—Wearing apparel
    • B29L2031/4871—Underwear
    • B29L2031/4885—Brassieres

Definitions

  • the present invention relates generally to seams for garments and their manufacture. More particularly, the seams of the present provide greater comfort to the wearer and are less bulky than conventional seams, which are formed from multiple plys (e.g., layers) of material.
  • the seams of the present invention find particular advantage in foundation garments (i.e. garments worn under other garments) especially those over which shear or clingy outer garments are worn and through which bulky seams are clearly (and undesirably) visible.
  • a sewn seam is formed between two fabric panels. Seams are sewn or otherwise formed in a variety of different ways, depending upon the material, the feature of the garment formed by the seam and numerous other factors .
  • the panels of fabric to be joined by the seams are superposed at their edges and stitched through at a short distance from the edges to form two overlapping facing strips at the edge of the seam.
  • the facing strips are then "plowed" or folded on their respective panels, and each is stitched flat against the panel. This seam is formed on the inside of the garment so that the stitched facing strips are not visible on the outside.
  • the plowed strips are then covered with a tape which is sewn to the panel through the plowed strips.
  • the edges of the tape are folded under in order to avoid fraying, before the tape is sewn to the panels.
  • the seam is several plies thick (even without the tape) and defines a noticeable ridge in the fabric. This ridge is generally visible and even accentuated when in foundation garments over which other garments ⁇ e.g., shear or close fitting outer garments) are worn.
  • foundation garments that provide shaping and/or support the ridge can cause discomfort, chafing etc., especially where support and/or shaping are provided.
  • sewn seams are advantageous and desirable in many classes of garments that provide support or shape to the wearer. Sewn seams enable the manufacturer to tailor the garment to provide support or shape in a particular area (i.e. the area of the seam) . Also, the sewn seam enables the manufacturer to join two types of materials together, or to configure the fabric panels joined together by the seam to provide particular support or shape to the wearer .
  • bras brassieres (more commonly referred to as bras) .
  • the bra is a complicated garment from a manufacturing perspective because it is a garment with cups that define a vaulted three dimensional shape. Often, these cups are formed from flat panels that are sewn together. The cup portion is formed with a sewn, curved seam in the front between two panels.
  • the seam provides an advantageous element of support for the wearer at this location. This support is especially advantageous for ample breasted women. Sewn seams are also advantageous because they allow two different types of material to be joined together by the seam. Thus, the manufacturer can join together two materials, each with distinct characteristics and functions in the garment.
  • a sturdier material that provides support can be joined with a stretchier material that provides comfort .
  • the sewn seam provides advantages in other support garments as well. Sewn seams can be placed in foundation garments at the precise location where support or particular shape is desired. Thus, from a support/shape perspective, the sewn seam is very advantageous when used in foundation garments and active wear.
  • the present invention is applicable to seams for many types of garments. However, it is particularly advantageous in the manufacture of foundation garments, active wear, shape wear and the like type of garments (i.e. garments that are configured for fit, support and/or control) .
  • the seams of the present invention present a smooth surface, compared to prior art multi-ply seams. The smooth seams are not visually detectable when in a foundation garment over which close fitting or shear garments are worn. However, unlike prior art alternatives to multi-ply seams, the seams of the present invention permit the manufacturer to tailor the garment to provide support, comfort or shape in addition to providing the highly desirable smooth appearance.
  • seams are formed of two fabric panels (i.e. a first panel and a second panel), each panel having a first edge.
  • the first edge of the first panel abuts, but does not substantially overlap, the first edge of the second panel.
  • the first and second panels are joined together by an adhesive.
  • the edges are connected by a material strip carrying the adhesive.
  • the adhesive is applied to the material strip in an uncured state.
  • the material strip is placed in contact with the fabric panels to form the seam while the adhesive is still substantially uncured.
  • a seam is formed by applying a first material strip carrying adhesive on a first major surface at the interface of the two abutting fabric panels, followed by cure, and then applying a second material strip carrying adhesive on a second, opposing major surface at the interface of the two fabric panels (again followed by cure) .
  • any conventional fabric is contemplated as suitable for the fabric panels, it is advantageous if the fabric panels are synthetic materials .
  • suitable fabrics include synthetic materials such as polyester, rayon, polyurethane foam, spandex (e.g., Lycra® a registered trademark of Invista Technologies S.A.R.L.), nylon and the like materials and natural fiber materials such as cotton and wool.
  • fabric materials typically carry a finish material which gives a material a particular sheen and/or feel.
  • a fabric finish is selected that will not substantially degrade the adhesion between the adhesive and the fabric panels.
  • Suitable adhesives are those that wet both the fabric and the material strip used to join the fabric panels (it is advantageous, but not required, that the fabric and material strip be the same material) .
  • thermosetting adhesives are used. As used herein, thermosetting adhesives are adhesives that cure when subjected to a thermal cycle of heating followed by cooling. Another characteristic of thermosetting adhesives is that, once cured, they cannot be remelted when heated.
  • thermoplastic adhesives are used. Thermoplastic adhesives, much like thermosetting adhesives, cure when subjected to a thermal cycle of heating and cooling. However, unlike thermosetting adhesives, thermoplastic adhesives can be remelted after cure.
  • the fabric panels are relatively thick (e.g., 5 mils or thicker and, more typically about 20 mils or more) , such as when the fabric is a fiberfill or urethane material, adhesive may be applied directly to the abutted edges.
  • a strip of material is also used to carry additional adhesive to form the completed seam in these embodiments. Forming a seam from relatively thick materials in this manner ensures that gaps in the finished seam will not form.
  • the seam is formed by applying to the material strip a heated, thermosetting adhesive in fluid form.
  • a heated, thermosetting adhesive in fluid form.
  • a polyurethane adhesive PUR adhesive
  • the adhesive contains additives that allow the seam to stretch along with the fabric panels joined by the seam.
  • a seam manufactured in accordance with the present invention is virtually undetectable through clothing, and, when a strip of material is used, as in a brassiere cup, it provides an element of support which is adequate for most of the female population.
  • the adhesive when introduced into contact with the material strip, wets the surface of the strip, the amount of adhesive, the thickness of the adhesive and its viscosity are selected to ensure that the adhesive does not permeate through the entire thickness of the material strip. The reason for this is twofold. If the seam is in contact with the wearer, it is preferred that the wearer not be in contact with the adhesive used to form the seam. If the seam is on the exterior of the garment, it is not desirable for the adhesive to be visible on the surface of the material strip. The adhesive, if visible through the seam, might give the garment a stained, soiled or otherwise undesirable appearance. [0019] An apparatus for forming an adhesive seam is also contemplated.
  • the apparatus has a conveyor that grips and draws two fabric panels into abutting contact.
  • the conveyor is a dual belt feeder that cooperates with a knurled roller to draw fabric panels into the nip between the belts and the roller.
  • Both the belt feeder and roller are provided with driver assemblies that impart the desired circular motion to the belts and cause the belt and rollers to draw the fabric panels into the nip thereof.
  • the apparatus is also equipped with a feeding mechanism that feeds the strip of material from a roll or other mechanism that is suitable to support and dispense such material. As the strip of material is fed from the dispensing mechanism, adhesive is applied to the strip of material.
  • the adhesive is applied using mechanisms such as a spray nozzle, a slot nozzle or a roller coater. The adhesive is applied to the material in a substantially uncured form.
  • At least one of the rollers forming the nip into which the fabric is fed and drawn is knurled. At least one of the rollers is driven and it is advantageous if both rollers are both driven and knurled. It is advantageous if the rollers have the same size and move at the same speed, as such an arrangement provides an even seam.
  • the roller surfaces can be either flat, concave or convex. It is advantageous if at least one of the roller surfaces is convex, as this surface configuration draws the fabric into and through the nip efficiently.
  • the apparatus feeds the strip of material carrying the adhesive into contact with the fabric panels in abutting contact such that the strip of material is placed in contact with both panels and bridges the region where the two panels are brought together along substantially the entire length of that region. Bringing the strip of material into contact with the fabric panels in this manner, the apparatus forms a seam joining the first panel and the second panel.
  • the strip of material is backed with paper, such that the paper backing is interposed between the strip of material and the roller.
  • the paper prevents adhesive, placed on the strip of material to promote adhesion between it and the fabric, from coming into contact with the rollers. After the strip of material is placed into contact with the fabric panels and begins to cure, the paper backing is removed from the strip of material .
  • the adhesive is at least partially cured so that the seam will hold the panels together when the assembled panels are removed from the apparatus for subsequent processing.
  • the apparatus has a curing station that facilitates at least partial cure of the adhesive.
  • the curing conditions depend upon the adhesive that is used. For example, thermosetting resins are heated to render them sufficiently viscous for application onto the material strip. Generally, the adhesive is more viscous (i.e. has a greater resistance to flow) at lower temperatures. At lower temperatures, the adhesive is applied onto the strip of material with a greater bead thickness. Generally, a temperature is selected that will ensure a certain minimum degree of tackiness between the panels themselves or between the panels and the strip of material used to join the panels together.
  • Such adhesives are cured by subjecting them to cool, moist air.
  • the curing section for an apparatus in which a thermosetting resin is used to assemble the seam will introduce cool, moist air proximate to the assembled seam in order to at least partially cure the adhesive. It is advantageous if the assembled seam is placed on a surface with a contour that somewhat mimics that of the finished seam. Placing the seam on such a surface will prevent the fabric panels from bunching, pulling, etc., which could place the partially cured seam under undue stress. Such stress could cause undesired imperfections in the fully cured seam (e.g., gaps, irregular appearance, etc.) .
  • Curing on an appropriately contoured surface ensures that the seam will not be subjected to undue mechanical stress during cure.
  • Appropriate curing conditions depend upon a number of different factors among them being: 1) the temperature of the adhesive when applied to the seam; 2) the thickness of the bead of adhesive that is deposited to form the seam; 3) the amount of moisture in the air; 4) the temperature of the air; and 5) the volume of air circulating past the seam as it is cured.
  • Figures IA-1C are schematic diagrams representing a presently preferred process for manufacturing a garment seam in accordance with one embodiment of the present invention
  • Figure 2 illustrates an alternate embodiment of a garment seam in accordance with the present invention, useful on portions of a garment made of fiberfill or urethane
  • Figures 3A and 3B illustrate an alternate method for the manufacture of a brassier cup using a darted seam in accordance with one embodiment of the present invention
  • Figure 4 illustrates a support bra structure according to one embodiment of the present invention
  • Figure 5 illustrates a support bra structure according to a second embodiment of the present invention
  • Figure 6 is a perspective view of the top belt assembly and bottom roller assembly for one embodiment of the apparatus of the present invention
  • Figure 7 is a perspective view of the top belt assembly illustrated in Figure 6;
  • Figure 8 is a perspective view of the nip region of the assembly illustrated in FIG. 6 adjacent the bottom roller assembly;
  • FIG. 8A is a perspective view of another embodiment of the assembly illustrated in FIG. 6 in which the top belt assembly is replaced by a driven knurled roller;
  • Figure 9A-B illustrate the top belt assembly illustrated in Figures 6-8 in both its belt up (Figure 9A) and belt down ( Figure 9B) positions;
  • Figure 10 is a top view of a top belt assembly of the present invention feeding fabric into the apparatus;
  • Figure 11 is another embodiment of the top belt assembly illustrated in Figure 10 but with a divider between fabric panels as they are fed into the top belt assembly;
  • Figure 12 is a detail view of a spray nozzle suited for use in one embodiment of the apparatus of the present invention;
  • Figure 13 is a detail view of a slot nozzle suited for use in one embodiment of the apparatus of the present invention
  • Figure 14A - 14C are schematic diagrams of a roller coater suited for use in one embodiment of the apparatus of the present invention with 14A a top plan view, 14B a top plan view with underlying components in phantom and 14C a cut away side view;
  • Figure 15 is a side view of an adhesive dispenser for use in one embodiment of the present invention.
  • Figure 16 is a plan view of the midsection of the adhesive dispenser illustrated in Figure 15;
  • Figure 17 is a perspective view of the top section of the adhesive dispenser illustrated in FIG. 15; and [0045] Figure 18 is a perspective view of a contoured surface on which bra cups can be placed while the adhesive seam is cured.
  • FIGS. 1A-1C are a schematic representation of seams according to certain embodiments of the present invention.
  • FIG IA illustrates two panels or sheets of fabric 10, 12 in edge-wise abutment at 13, in preparation for forming a seam.
  • the fabric panels are preferably made of a synthetic material such as polyester, polyurethane, nylon, rayon, etc. It is advantageous if the fabric panels are smooth before the seam is formed. If the material is not sufficiently smooth, it can be calendared. Calendared materials provide a more uniform surface on which to apply the material strip carrying adhesive. This ensures that the adhesive contact is uniform, and the seam is less likely to bunch when formed than if the fabric is non-calendared.
  • the fabric panels 10, 12 are typically finished fabrics, although the fabric panels can also be unfinished. Finished fabrics are well known to those skilled in the art. There are many fabric finishes, each providing a certain feel and appearance to a fabric. If finished, the fabric finish must be compatible with the adhesive that is used to form the seam. In the context of the present invention, compatible means that the adhesive will adhere to the fabric with the finish thereon.
  • compatible means that the adhesive will adhere to the fabric with the finish thereon.
  • One skilled in the art can readily ascertain how to select a finish that is suitable for use with a particular adhesive, and vice-versa. For example, if a water- based (i.e. hydrophilic/polar) adhesive is used, then the finish should not be hydrophobic or non-polar.
  • Silicone-based finishes are examples of finishes that are not suitable for forming an adhesive seam using a water-based adhesive. If a fabric has a finish to which the adhesive will not suitably adhere, the problem may be addressed by spray washing the fabric to remove or modify the finish. Finish properties can also be modified ⁇ e.g., the finish texture can be roughened) by subjecting the fabric to an electric field.
  • One skilled in the art is well versed in the materials and conditions required to remove/modify a fabric finish, and, as such, they will not be discussed in detail herein.
  • the fabric panels 10, 12 are illustrated as rectangular, but can be cut to any desired shape or size.
  • One skilled in the art is aware of the many different techniques used to cut fabric panels for use in garment manufacture. Such techniques include Gerber cutting, die cutting and laser cutting. It is advantageous if the fabric panels are cut using the more precise techniques of laser cutting, sonic cutting or die cutting. Laser cutting, sonic cutting, hydro cutting and die cutting provide fabric panels with smoother, more uniform edges compared with other conventional techniques for cutting fabric (e.g., Gerber cutting). It is easier to abut fabric panels with smooth, uniform edges, and panels with such edges are less likely to bunch or otherwise deform in a manner that might result in a non-uniform seam.
  • the fabric panels are cut from the fabric using laser cutting, hydro cutting or sonic cutting.
  • laser cutting and sonic cutting are more accurate and therefore provide for a more consistent and uniform cut. This ensures greater conformity of the edges of the two fabric panel that are brought together in abutted alignment.
  • laser cutting and die cutting fuse, at least somewhat, the fibers at the cut edge of the fabric panels. This also allows the fabric panels to be fitted together more precisely, providing for a smoother seam that is less visible under clothing.
  • the material and thickness of the fabric panels is largely a matter of design choice. While there is no requirement that the fabric panels be the same material, there are certain constraints when different materials are used. One constraint is the finish on the materials. While there is no requirement that the materials have the same finish, the finishes should permit a comparable degree of adhesion between the panel and the adhesive. In this regard, one panel should not have a hydrophilic finish when the other has a hydrophobic finish, for example. Another constraint is thickness. While there is no requirement that the fabric panels be of identical thickness, it is advantageous if they are of similar thicknesses.
  • a substantial difference in thickness between the two panels ⁇ e.g., one panel is more than fifty percent thicker than the other panel) will result in an uneven seam that is more likely to be visible through shear or clingy garments worn over any such seam compared to a seam formed from two panels of substantially equal thickness.
  • an elongated strip of material preferably a length of material 14 is wetted with a liquid adhesive material 16.
  • the adhesive is depicted as being sprayed onto the material.
  • the adhesive can be applied to the material in a more controlled manner (e.g., slot nozzle or roller coater) .
  • the mechanisms for applying the adhesive are discussed in greater detail below.
  • the piece of material used to join together the two fabric panels is referred to herein as a strip. While the term strip typically connotes a long and narrow configuration, the term strip, as used herein, is meant to include a piece of material of any suitable configuration.
  • the strip of material is also of any suitable thickness.
  • the thickness of the material strip is less than the thickness of the fabric panels. Thicker strips, while contemplated, are contrary to the objectives of the present invention, which is to provide a less noticeable seam.
  • the strip of material is thicker than the adhesive applied thereon. This ensures that the adhesive will not wet through the strip of material. Examples of suitable thicknesses for the material strip are in the range of about 1 mil (a mil is 1/1000 of an inch) to about 7 mils thick.
  • the weave of the strip is selected to prevent adhesive from penetrating through the thickness of the strip. As previously noted, this prevents the adhesive from being visible on the surface of the material strip, resulting in an undesirable appearance. This also prevents adhesive from penetrating through the material strip on the underside of the seam, which would result in adhesive being adjacent the skin of the wearer. This could result in skin irritation or other discomfort to the wearer. Again, the objective is to prevent the adhesive from penetrating through the thickness of the strip. Again, this is a feature that provides a seam with an advantageous appearance and is not required to ensure the mechanical integrity of the seam.
  • Various materials and material thicknesses may be selected for the elongated strip of material, depending on the application. Typically the material will be the same as or similar to the panel material, although this is not required. If the material is finished, the finish must not inhibit the adherence of the adhesive, as described above.
  • the thickness of the material strip is largely a matter of design choice, and will be governed largely by the desired appearance of the seam. For example, strips having a thickness that will show through outerwear are less desirable. The one requirement is that the strip of material be at least as thick, and preferably thicker, than the adhesive applied to and carried by the strip of material.
  • the material is a tricot knit fabric material having a thickness of about 1 mil to about 7 mils and a width in the range of about 3 /3 2 M to about 1 Z 4 " .
  • a tricot knit fabric material having a thickness of about 1 mil to about 7 mils and a width in the range of about 3 /3 2 M to about 1 Z 4 " .
  • strips made of many different materials and with many different sizes may be used.
  • the width of the strip of fabric material is also a matter of design choice. Typically, the strip of fabric material will have a width of about 0.25 inches to about 0.75 inches. However, widths outside this range are contemplated. [0055] As noted above, it is advantageous if the strip of fabric material does not have an open weave that will allow the adhesive to penetrate through the thickness of the strip of material. However, it is advantageous if the strip of material does stretch at least somewhat in both the length and width directions. This provides the seam with a bit of give, which adds some additional adjustability and thus comfort for the wearer. However, although desirable, the degree of stretch in the width direction should never be such that gaps form in the seam due to the degree of stretch provided by the strip of fabric material .
  • the seam of the present invention can be formed using a material strip and fabric panels with any degree of stretch
  • the adhesive As noted above, many different adhesives are contemplated as suitable. The selected adhesive will adequately adhere to the fabric panels forming the seam and the finish on such panels. Furthermore the adhesive, once cured, must remain supple over time even through repeated wearings and washings of the garment. Examples of suitable adhesives include thermosetting adhesives and thermoplastic adhesives. One example of a thermoplastic adhesive is Griltex ® copolyester adhesive. Thermoplastic adhesives are contemplated as useful for forming a seam when the fabric panels are knitted or woven fabric. In one embodiment, it is advantageous if the adhesive contains a dye so that is at least somewhat matches the color of the fabric panels and/or the material strip.
  • Dyes or other additives suitable for coloring adhesive are well known in the art and not described in detail herein.
  • the color of the selected dye depends upon, for example, the color of the fabric panels and the material strip and the degree of match between the adhesive and the fabric panel/material strip that is sought.
  • the dye or other color additive must be chemically compatible with the adhesive. For example, if the adhesive is water-based, then the dye would also be water- based. Conversely, if the adhesive is hydrophobic, then the dye would also be hydrophobic .
  • thermosetting adhesive is a polyurethane based adhesive such as PUR from National Starch Inc.
  • PUR polyurethane based adhesive
  • additives can be included with the adhesive.
  • suitable additives for thermosetting adhesives that increase the stretch in the cured adhesive.
  • the adhesive is one that cures when cooled, and the cure is accelerated in a moist air environment.
  • the adhesive is heated in a container under pressure.
  • An inert atmosphere is provided to pressurize the adhesive.
  • the inert atmosphere is an argon atmosphere.
  • the inert atmosphere is super-dried air. Nitrogen is yet another example of an inert atmosphere.
  • an inert atmosphere is one in which the adhesive does not substantially cure.
  • the adhesive is dispensed either by pressure from the inert atmosphere alone or by use of a mechanical pump.
  • the adhesive material is dispensed in liquid form. In the embodiment where pressurized argon is used to dispense the adhesive, approximately five pounds of argon pressure is all that is required to accomplish this objective.
  • the material cures when cooled in ambient air and the cure is accelerated if the air is moist. The greater the amount of moisture in the air, the faster the cure.
  • the preferred adhesive is a thick paste that is heated to be converted to a liquid form.
  • the melting temperature will depend upon the particular adhesive used. Specifically an adhesive with a melting temperature that is less than the temperature that would adversely affect the fabric panels being attached with the seam is preferred. For example, if fabric panels will be adversely affected by temperatures higher than 350 0 F, adhesives with a melting temperature higher than about 350 0 F should be avoided. Similarly, if the fabric can withstand temperatures of about 300 0 F or less, then and adhesive with a melting temperature of less than about 300 0 F should be used.
  • Adhesives that require temperatures of greater than 350 0 F to be in liquid form are less preferred because the synthetic materials used for the strip of material and fabric panels might be damaged if placed into contact with a substance at such higher temperatures. Also, high temperatures are preferably avoided for operator safety. It is advantageous if the uncured adhesive melts at temperatures in the range of about 220° F to about 280° F, and more preferably temperatures of about 220 0 F to about 260 0 F and is sufficiently liquid (i.e. have a viscosity that is sufficiently low) at these temperatures to facilitate application onto the strip of material.
  • adhesives with curing temperatures in the lower half of the aforesaid range have a tackiness when the adhesive is applied to the strip that provides for advantageous handling of the seam prior to cure.
  • overheating is to be avoided as it can cause the adhesive to discolor (e.g., turn yellow) . This can cause a less than desirable appearance.
  • the fabric itself is heated when the seam is formed. Heated fabric is less prone to wrinkle, and a smooth seam will more likely result with the fabric is heated. Again the upper limit on temperature is the heat tolerance of the fabric itself. There is no need to heat the fabric to a temperature in excess of the melting temperature of the adhesive.
  • the adhesive is applied using any suitable mechanism.
  • a roller coater provides uniformity and controlled application, but other mechanisms such as a slot nozzle or a spray nozzle are also contemplated as suitable.
  • a slot nozzle provides a bead of adhesive and therefore permits the application of adhesive directly onto the strip at a controlled thickness.
  • a spray nozzle permits a large amount of adhesive to be applied quickly but the amount of "overspray" onto other surfaces is greater with a spray nozzle than with a slot nozzle or roller coater.
  • adhesive may be applied by any other conventional method that will allow it to wet the strip of material 14. Application conditions (e.g., adhesive thickness) are controlled to prevent the adhesive from bleeding through the strip of material.
  • the adhesive is applied using conditions (e.g., thickness, viscosity, etc.) that limit the penetration of the adhesive into the strip of material to about 5 mils or less.
  • FIG. 1C shows the strip of material 14, after it has received the adhesive 16, applied over the abutted joint 13 between the fabric sheets 10, 12. It is not required to apply pressure to the strip of material 14 during initial cure but only to hold the panels 10 and 12 stationary.
  • the preferred adhesive cures if exposed to an ambient atmosphere, but curing can be accelerated by exposing it to moist (i.e.
  • suitably moist air is ambient air with at least about forty percent humidity.
  • a stream 18 of cool, moist air is directed at the strip of material 14. This initiates curing of the adhesive, whereupon the tape and the edges of the sheets 10, 12 are retained together by the adhesive to form a seam 15. This permits the fabric seam to be handled without separating the seam.
  • the fabric seam is placed on a surface with a contour that mimics the contour of the fabric article. Such an arrangement avoids mechanical stress on the seam as it cures.
  • FIG. 1C illustrates the strip of material on one surface of the fabric panels 10 and 12. It is contemplated that the strip of material 14 will be adhered to the opposing surface of panels 10 and 12 to form a two-sided seam. In these embodiments, once the first strip of material 14 is applied to join together panels 10 and 12, the seam assembly is turned over and a second strip of material (not shown) is applied on the opposing side.
  • Adhesive-backed strips have been used in garment manufacture for either garment hems or elastic edges .
  • the adhesive strips used for these purposes are not suited for making seams, especially seams with corners or curves such as the seams found in bra cups.
  • the adhesive-back strips are supplied with the adhesive pre-applied on the strip (i.e. well in advance ⁇ e.g., at least hours, more likely days and typically weeks) of using the strip to make the garment) and partially cured.
  • the adhesive is therefore in a solid state and the strips must be reheated when the strip is applied to the seam.
  • Solid adhesive is less preferable to the adhesive applied in liquid form, as described herein.
  • the liquid adhesive is applied to the material strip only moments before the seam is formed. Corner and curved seams are readily formed using the material strip carrying liquid adhesive as described herein.
  • One advantage of the present invention is that, since the panels 10 and 12 are in abutted alignment for seam formation, the need for a seam allowance is avoided.
  • a sewn seam needs to have a seam allowance (i.e. extra material) where the panel edges are sewn together. Thus a portion of each panel extends beyond the sewn seam.
  • This extended edge portion is plowed open and sewn as discussed above.
  • the extended edge portion serves no purpose in the garment (it is typically in the inside of the garment, hidden from view) .
  • there is no need for a seam allowance since the edges are abutted and the adhesive seam is formed at the abutment of the two edges.
  • the panels do not extend beyond the abutted region. Therefore, the fabric panels can be cut to the exact size that is required for the garment, without the need for a seam allowance.
  • the present invention provides a significant saving of material by avoiding the need for a seam allowance.
  • the present invention provides particular advantage in the manufacture of bra cups.
  • a substantial amount of manual labor is required. This is especially true in the case of molded cups that require time and labor to shape into different sizes.
  • the fabric must be cut oversized in order to provide clamping areas, which eventually become waste material. Accordingly, the seams of the present invention will save a substantial amount of material when used to manufacture bras.
  • the process for forming the adhesive seams described generally above is capable of being automated. Using an automated process for bra manufacture also provides significant advantages over prior art techniques for making bras which are more highly customized and therefore more labor intensive .
  • adhesive might be applied to the fabric panels rather than the strip of material.
  • tape i.e. a strip of material already carrying an adhesive
  • the tape is then heated to liquefy the adhesive prior to applying the tape to the seam.
  • the heat may be applied after the tape is placed into contact with the fabric panels. This allows the seam to be formed in one quick operation.
  • the panels can be lightly stitched together (i.e. basted) either before or after the adhesive seam is formed for additional seam integrity.
  • FIG. 2 is an alternate embodiment of a fabric seam formed in accordance with the present invention.
  • the panels 10' and 12' are relatively thick sheets of material (e.g., thicknesses greater than about 1 ZiS 1 ' and up to about one inch or more) .
  • FIGS. 3A and 3B illustrate an alternate construction and manufacturing process for a bra cup.
  • the fabric panel 10" is formed with a triangular cut-out or "dart" 20.
  • the cup is assembled by bringing the edges forming the dart 20 into abutment and covering the abutting edges with a material strip 14' carrying adhesive in the manner already described. If the fabric 10" is fiberfill, urethane or the like, the edges of the dart 20 could be secured together with adhesive, as illustrated in FIG. 2. This would result in the formation of a perfectly smooth cup, without the need for molding.
  • FIG 4 illustrates a bra 100 with a supporting cup structure 110.
  • This cup material is urethane foam.
  • Generally rectangular upper panel 112 and two roughly triangular lower panels 114 and 116 are joined together in a "T" pattern.
  • a material strip 120 is adhered to the fabric panels in the seam region. The material strip 120 reinforces the seam, making it stronger, and providing enhanced support.
  • FIG. 5 illustrates a further support bra cup structure 130. Structures made from left and right urethane foam panels 131, 132.
  • the single strip of material 134 is shown schematically in FIGS. lA-lC.
  • adhesive can be introduced onto the abutted edges of the foam panels 131, 132. This adhesive is in addition to, and not in place of, the adhesive carried by the strip of material 134.
  • FIG. 6 there is illustrated an apparatus 200 for abutting two panels of material (not shown) and placing the abutted panels into contact with a strip of material carrying adhesive.
  • the apparatus 200 feeds the two panels of material and the strip of material through the apparatus so that the strip of material forms a seam over the butted portions of the panels.
  • the apparatus 200 has a top belt assembly 210 and a bottom roller assembly 220.
  • the top belt assembly is configured to feed two fabric panels (not shown) into abutting contact with each other when fed into the nip 201 defined by the top belt assembly 210 and bottom roller assembly 220.
  • Roller 222 is mounted on a slant post 221 which allows the panels of material to naturally curve as they pass through the nip region 201 defined by top belt assembly 210 and roller 220.
  • FIG. 7 is a detail view of the top belt assembly 210.
  • the top belt assembly has two belts, a right belt 211 and a left belt 212. Both are driven by roller 215.
  • Each belt is used to feed a garment panel (not shown) into abutting contact with another garment panel and maintain the abutting contact while the strip of material supporting the adhesive is applied thereto.
  • the two panels of the cup are fed into the top assembly.
  • One panel is gripped and advanced into the apparatus 200 by right belt 211, the other panel being gripped and advanced by left belt 212.
  • the tension in each belt 211, 212 is independently controlled by respective right 213 and left 214 lift cylinders. This is particularly advantageous in those embodiments where the first and second fabric panels have different thicknesses.
  • the movement of the right and left belts 211, 212 is controlled by stepper motor (not shown) via shaft 215.
  • FIG. 8 is a detail view of the top belt assembly 210 and the bottom roller assembly 220.
  • a piece of fabric 235 supported by table 230 is in the background.
  • material 235 has been fed through the nip region 240 between top belt assembly 210 and bottom roller assembly 220.
  • the roller assembly 220 is on a slanted, post-type support 221, allowing contoured garment panels to naturally curve through the nip region 240. This avoids undue stress being placed upon the newly formed seam, and makes it less likely that the seam will be forced apart before the adhesive is cured.
  • FIG. 8A An alternate configuration of the assembly 200 illustrated in FIG. 6 is illustrated in FIG. 8A. In FIG.
  • the nip region 201 has a directly driven top roller 213 instead of the dual belt assembly illustrated in FIG. 8.
  • the top roller 213 is knurled, as is bottom roller 222.
  • top paper 214 is fed over top roller 213 and into nip region 201.
  • Bottom paper 216 is fed under bottom roller 222 and into nip region 201.
  • the fabric panels (not shown) ⁇ are fed into the nip region 201, and adhesive/adhesive strip (also not shown) is applied thereto, the paper 214, 216 are placed on the back of the seam so formed. This prevents glue that is used to form the seam from getting on the rollers 213, 222.
  • the paper backing 214, 216 is easily removed from the seam after the fabric panels are removed from apparatus 200 but prior to complete adhesive cure.
  • Many different types of paper are contemplated as suitable.
  • standard craft paper i.e. paper with a thickness of 5/7000" (7.143 x 10 ⁇ 4 inches)
  • the thickness is selected so that the craft paper can act as an effective barrier between the glue dispensed onto the fabric strip and the rollers, 213 and 222.
  • the top belt assembly 210 is equipped with a front belt lifting unit illustrated in FIG. 9A-9B.
  • the lifting assembly 250 is pivotally mounted on main belt support 255.
  • Tension rods 251, 252 pull back on lifting assembly 250, thereby causing the front portion of belts 211, 212 to lift above table 230.
  • Belt support 255 keeps the belts 211, 212 in contact with bottom roller 222 (FIG. 8) .
  • lifting assembly 250 allows an operator to join two cup panels and to insert a second set of cup panels immediately following. Such a continuous feeding mechanism avoids uncured adhesive from depositing on the roller and belt assemblies .
  • FIG. 9B once the garment panels have been fed into the belt assembly 210, the lifting assembly 250 is pivoted down to better grip and advance the garment panels.
  • the top belt assembly 210 is illustrated advancing garment panels 235', 235" therethrough.
  • Garment panels 235', 235" are advanced through the nip between the top belt assembly 210 and the bottom roller assembly (not shown) to form the seam therebetween.
  • the lifting assembly 250 is in its up position and ready to receive another garment panel .
  • a reflective surface portion 265 is placed on the work table 230.
  • the reflective surface is placed in the path of the advancing garment panel, which is indicated by arrow 260.
  • An optical sensing assembly 270 is provided to sense a break in the feed of garment panels.
  • the optical sensing assembly is equipped with a photosensor head 271 that emits a signal directed toward reflective surface 265.
  • any signal that is reflected back to photosensor head 271 is weak.
  • the signal reflected back to photosensor head 271 is stronger. This stronger signal is transmitted via optical fiber 272 to optical sensing assembly 270. Sensing a break in the garment material, the optical assembly sends a signal back to the apparatus to stop the movement of the belts 211, 212.
  • the work plate 230 is configured with divider 280.
  • the divider 280 serves to guide garment panels 235' and 235" into abutted alignment.
  • the guide works by ensuring that garment panel 235' is guided/advanced by belt 211 and garment panel 235" is guided/advanced by belt 212.
  • Garment panels 235' and 235" are two halves that will be joined together to form a bra cup .
  • the liquid adhesive is dispensed onto the strip of material using a variety of different dispensing mechanisms.
  • a spray nozzle 300 suited for spraying liquid adhesive onto the strip of material is illustrated in FIG. 12.
  • the nozzle 300 has an adhesive inlet 310 and an air inlet 320 for forcing the adhesive through nozzle 340.
  • the nozzle assembly 300 is also equipped with a needle valve 350.
  • the needle valve 350 is adjusted using the adjustment screw 351 to control the force, spray volume and area of the adhesive dispensed by nozzle end 340.
  • needle valve 350 is configured to project through nozzle 340 when turned off, thereby forcing all of the adhesive out of nozzle 340.
  • FIG. 13 illustrates a slot nozzle 400.
  • the slot nozzle 400 has a slot 401 that is placed proximate roller 222 of bottom roller assembly 220.
  • Hose 405 delivers adhesive to slot nozzle 400.
  • the strip of material (not shown) is conveyed by roller 222 past slot nozzle 400, where liquid adhesive is dispensed thereon.
  • the strip of material is then advanced into the nip 240 between bottom roller assembly 220 and top belt assembly 210.
  • the material strip carrying adhesive is placed into contact with abutting garment panels (also not shown) fed into the nip 240 by the top belt assembly 210.
  • paper backing FIG. 13 illustrates a slot nozzle 400.
  • the slot nozzle 400 has a slot 401 that is placed proximate roller 222 of bottom roller assembly 220.
  • Hose 405 delivers adhesive to slot nozzle 400.
  • the strip of material (not shown) is conveyed by roller 222 past slot nozzle 400, where liquid adhesive is dispensed thereon.
  • FIG. 14A is a top view of guide assembly 501 of roller coater 500 (FIG. 14B) and illustrating top roller 514, coating roller 510 and material guide roller 520. Material guide roller 520 and material guide 521 cooperate to feed the material to be coated (not shown) to the nip between top roller 514 and coating roller 510. Material guide 521 is adjustable to accommodate material with a variety of thicknesses.
  • Coating roller 510 is similarly adjustable, or can be changed out so that the roller width and material width are comparable. It is advantageous if the roller coater is adjustable to accommodate material strips up to at least one inch in thickness . The goal is to control the amount of excess adhesive (i.e., adhesive dispensed from the roller coater but not applied onto the strip of material) .
  • FIG. 14C a side view illustrates coating roller 510 receiving adhesive 512 from supply roller 530 that has a surface 531 that receives adhesive from reservoir 540. The strip of material is fed through the nip 514 between top roller 514 and coating roller 510.
  • the roller coater 500 is also equipped with an eccentric cam 550.
  • Eccentric cam 550 is used to adjust the position of adhesive doctor blade 551 (FIG. 14C) .
  • Adhesive doctor blade 551 removes excess adhesive 512 from coating roller 510.
  • the excess adhesive 551 removed from coating roller 510 flows downward back into reservoir 540.
  • the material guide 521 is adjusted to ensure that the material is guided into place for proper feeding into the nip 514 between top roller 511 and coating roller 510.
  • One feature of material guide 521 is air cylinder 522. Air cylinder 522 is used to lift material guide 521 to remove the material strip (not shown) from contact with the adhesive roller.
  • the rotating speed of the top and bottom rollers is adjusted to control the rate at which the fabric/strip of material/paper is fed into the nip of the apparatus.
  • the roller coater is optionally equipped with a stepper motor (not shown) .
  • the stepper motor controls the speed at which the strip of material carrying adhesive is dispensed from the roller coater. This speed needs to be compatible with the speed at which the panels are fed into abutting alignment by the apparatus, to ensure that the seam is formed as the panels are fed through the apparatus .
  • one type of adhesive that is contemplated for use in the present invention is a thermoset adhesive that cures permanently when subjected to heat and subsequently cooled.
  • a permanent cure is one where the adhesive, once cured, will not remelt when subjected to elevated temperatures post cure.
  • the cure of such adhesives is accelerated when the adhesive is exposed to moist air. The greater the amount of moisture, the faster the cure. The cure is accelerated if the moist air is cooler (i.e. room temperature or below).
  • moist air i.e. room temperature or below.
  • Apparatus 600 has two sections, 610 and 620.
  • Section 610 receives a container of adhesive.
  • Section 610 is also equipped with heat jacket 612 for heating the adhesive within container 611.
  • Section 620 has a reservoir 621 that receives adhesive that drains from section 610.
  • Section 620 is also equipped with a heat jacket 623 , so that the adhesive that drains into reservoir 621 also remains at elevated temperature.
  • Section 620 is also equipped with cylinder 633 that provides pressure to reservoir 621.
  • Pressure is provided in the form of an inert atmosphere (i.e., inert from the perspective of adhesive cure) . Examples of inert atmospheres, in this context, are pressurized moisture free air, argon or nitrogen gas.
  • the air is superheated (i.e. heated with little to no moisture) to ensure that the adhesive remains at elevated temperature and does not begin to cure when in the apparatus 600.
  • the specific temperature will depend upon the adhesive, and the selected adhesive will have a melting temperature that will not damage the fabric panels to be joined by the adhesive. Although some fabrics can tolerate temperatures in excess of 400 0 F, typically temperatures will be 35O 0 F or less. Because of manufacturing considerations (lower energy costs, operator safety, etc.) temperatures in the range of about 26O 0 F to 28O 0 F are considered advantageous and adhesives with melting temperatures in this range are therefore preferred.
  • the pressure forces the adhesive from reservoir 621 out through nozzle 624.
  • Nozzle 624 is connected by hose (not shown) to an adhesive delivery device (e.g., the slot nozzle illustrated in FIG. 13).
  • the apparatus also has intermediate plate 630 which is illustrated in detail in FIG. 16.
  • the apparatus has top lid 661, which is illustrated in detail in FIG. 17.
  • FIG. 16 illustrates intermediate plate 630 that separates the top section 610 from the bottom section 620 in FIG 15.
  • Plate 630 is equipped with annular seals 631 to ensure that ambient air does not enter the apparatus 600, and more particularly the container 611 or reservoir 621, when sealed.
  • Plate 630 is also equipped with a cylinder 632 to ensure that an air tight seal is maintained when the apparatus is sealed.
  • Plate 630 is also equipped with a retractable knife 633 for opening the adhesive container placed in upper section 610. The retractable knife 633 is pneumatically actuated to pierce the bottom of the can of adhesive once placed in the apparatus 600.
  • container 611 is shown being placed in top section 610 of apparatus 600.
  • Lid 661 pivots to permit the placement of the container 611 within the apparatus.
  • the heating jacket 612 surrounds the container 611 when placed in the apparatus, providing uniform heating to the adhesive within the container 611.
  • the top section 610 is spring loaded 623 to ensure contact and, therefore, good heat conduction, between the jacket 612 and the container 611.
  • Cover 660 is equipped with pneumatic can punch mechanism 662. This mechanism 662, when actuated, will puncture a hole in the container 611. Alternate embodiments employ an external punch. The hole permits the adhesive to flow from the container 611 into the underlying reservoir 621 (FIG. 15) when the bottom of the container 611 is punctured by the retractable knife 633 (FIG. 16) .
  • a suitable adhesive is supplied in cans as a thick paste, which must be heated to be converted to the liquid form in which it is used. It takes about 20 to about 30 minutes to heat the adhesive to a temperature sufficient to cause it to melt into a liquid form that is sufficiently fluid to be applied onto the material.
  • the adhesive in liquid form must be kept sealed from the ambient atmosphere to ensure that the adhesive does not begin to cure while in the apparatus.
  • the adhesive can be retained in the apparatus under a blanket of dry, moisture free air or nitrogen and maintained in an uncured state. Since the apparatus has a lower reservoir 621, an empty container 611 can be replaced with a full can and the adhesive in the new can heated and melted before the lower reservoir is empty of adhesive. This ensures continuous operation.
  • the adhesive cures in the presence of ambient air.
  • cool, moist air e.g., room temperature and at least forty percent humidity
  • the cool, moist air causes the cure to occur at a faster rate. This allows the seam to set more quickly, making it less likely to come apart when the garment is moved following seam formation.
  • FIG. 18 there is illustrated a holder 700 that provides a contoured surface that mimics the contour of the adhesive seam.
  • holder 700 had a surface 710 that supports a plurality of stands 720. These stands 720 have a pedestal portion 725 that supports a contoured top portion 730.
  • the contoured top portion is configured to mimic the contour of the adhesive seam 735 for bra cup 740. Curing the bra cups 740 in this manner avoids placing the fabric panels 745 on a surface that will cause the fabric panels to wrinkle during cure. Wrinkles in the fabric panel during cure can cause the seam 735 to deform during cure, which can result in a cured seam with a less than uniform, and therefore less desirable, appearance.

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Abstract

Selon cette invention, une couture de vêtement (15) est formée entre des panneaux de tissu (10, 12) par raccordement des bords d’au moins deux panneaux (10, 12) et placement d’une bande de matériau (14) porteuse d’un adhésif (16) sur les bords adjacents pour former la couture (15). Les panneaux de tissu ont des surfaces principales opposées, leurs bords constituant des surfaces secondaires. La bande de matériau (14) est appliquée sur au moins une surface principale des panneaux de tissu adjacents (10, 12), mais peut l’être sur les deux surfaces principales de ces panneaux (10, 12). La bande de matériau (14) est de préférence plus fine que les panneaux de tissu (10, 12). Dans certains modes de réalisation, l’adhésif (16) est un adhésif thermodurcissable appliqué sur la bande de matériau (14) sous forme liquide. Une couture (15) fabriquée selon la présente invention s’avère moins détectable à travers le vêtement que les coutures multiplis classiques. La couture adhésive permet également au fabricant de façonner le vêtement pour obtenir un soutien ou une forme dans une zone particulière (zone de la couture) outre l’aspect lisse souhaité. Par exemple, en cas d’emploi dans un bonnet de soutien-gorge (130), la couture permet de concevoir un vêtement offrant un confort, une forme et un soutien optimaux à la personne qui le porte.
EP06802265A 2005-09-16 2006-08-24 Assemblage par collage et procédé et dispositif de fabrication Withdrawn EP1974079A2 (fr)

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US71767905P 2005-09-16 2005-09-16
US11/500,639 US20070084390A1 (en) 2005-09-16 2006-08-08 Adhesive seam and method and apparatus for its manufacture
PCT/US2006/033120 WO2007037865A2 (fr) 2005-09-16 2006-08-24 Assemblage par collage et procédé et dispositif de fabrication

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US20070084390A1 (en) 2007-04-19
WO2007037865A3 (fr) 2009-04-16
CA2631745A1 (fr) 2007-04-05
WO2007037865A2 (fr) 2007-04-05

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