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EP1735058A2 - Hair styling films and method for producing hair fixing products in film form - Google Patents

Hair styling films and method for producing hair fixing products in film form

Info

Publication number
EP1735058A2
EP1735058A2 EP05700790A EP05700790A EP1735058A2 EP 1735058 A2 EP1735058 A2 EP 1735058A2 EP 05700790 A EP05700790 A EP 05700790A EP 05700790 A EP05700790 A EP 05700790A EP 1735058 A2 EP1735058 A2 EP 1735058A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
hair
film
polymer
polymers
weight
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP05700790A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Sarah Maillefer
Benedikt Zenhäusern
Ute Doepner-Reichenbach
Monika Moenks
Karin Steinbrecht
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Procter and Gamble Deutschland GmbH
Original Assignee
Wella GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Wella GmbH filed Critical Wella GmbH
Publication of EP1735058A2 publication Critical patent/EP1735058A2/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0208Tissues; Wipes; Patches
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8176Homopolymers of N-vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/56Compounds, absorbed onto or entrapped into a solid carrier, e.g. encapsulated perfumes, inclusion compounds, sustained release forms

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a process for the production of hair-fixing products in the form of a film, and to hair treatment compositions for setting hair in the form of a solid, water-soluble film, in particular based on pullulan and, if appropriate, additional hair-fixing polymers.
  • hair treatment agents are generally used in the form of gels, foams, sprays or lotions based on liquid solvents.
  • a disadvantage of such solvent-based products is that, owing to the high solvent and / or propellant content, they are voluminous and heavy and are therefore unsuitable for taking along on the go. The problem is usually solved by packaging the products in very small containers. Such products have the disadvantage that they are only sufficient for very few applications. In addition, it is not possible to portion them into solid, discrete pieces that are sufficient for an application during manufacture. Also a spatial one
  • JP 01-131109 discloses hair treatment agents in the form of sheets or plates, which are produced by pouring a solution into molds and evaporating the solvent. Such sheets or plates are not yet completely satisfactory, in particular with regard to the uniformity of the surface, product thickness and associated application properties, for example based on the dissolution rate during use.
  • films which contain pullulan or modified starch and are produced from a starch digestion of certain starch derivatives by pulling a film by the so-called knife-over-roll coating method and conditioning overnight.
  • the films described are soluble in a glass with water at 37 ° C., the dissolving behavior on wet hands or wet hair, which is relevant for applications as hair styling films, is unsatisfactory.
  • the knife-over-roll coating method usually only allows the production of coatings with a thickness of 0.5 mm. Typical achievable coating thicknesses are 1 to 30 mm. Films of such a thickness have an unsatisfactory dissolving behavior for applications as hair styling films.
  • the object on which the invention was based was to provide essentially solvent-free films which, when in contact with moisture, ie with relatively little water, can be easily dissolved by rubbing with the hands and, after incorporation into the hair, develop a hair-setting effect and enable hairstyle styling.
  • the films should be stackable and / or so flexible that they can be rolled up. They should be resistant to air humidity to such an extent that they do not stick together when they come into direct contact with one another and remain easily detachable even after long storage.
  • the invention relates to a method for producing a hair-fixing product in the form of a film, a rollable preparation being first produced by dissolving or dispersing a polymer in a liquid carrier medium, and - subsequently the preparation is brought into the form of a film by means of a rolling device by rolling and at the same time or subsequently the liquid carrier medium is evaporated.
  • the invention also relates to hair styling films, in particular hair styling films produced according to the invention, and the use of these films for hair setting.
  • the rollable preparation can have a semi-solid, dough-like consistency or it can be a viscous liquid with which a suitable carrier is coated and. the desired film thickness is produced by rolling with a rolling device. After drying, the finished film is removed from the carrier.
  • suitable carrier materials are, for example, silicone, metal, metallized polymers, polytetrafluoroethylene, polyether / polyamide block co polymers, polyurethanes, polyvinyl chloride, nylon, alkylene / styrene copolymers, polyethylene, polyester or other removable materials.
  • Suitable rolling devices are, in particular, the so-called forward roll or reverse roll coater, known per se to the person skilled in the art from coating and coating technology, with at least two co-rotating or counter-rotating rolls or rolls, a reverse roll process being preferred ,
  • a film in the sense of the invention is a solid, essentially solvent-free product with a planar, flat geometry and a thickness of preferably less than or equal to 1 mm, in particular less than 0.5 mm, e.g. from 0.05 mm to less than 0.5 mm.
  • the residual solvent content is preferably less than 5% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight.
  • Suitable polymers alone can have film-forming and / or hair-setting properties.
  • mixtures of polymers can also be used, the mixture having film-forming and / or hair-setting properties after evaporation of the solvent.
  • the polymer content in the rollable preparation can be from 10 to 80% by weight, from 20 to 70% by weight or from 30 to 60% by weight.
  • the polymer content in the finished film can be from 50 to 97% by weight, from 60 to 95% by weight or 80 to 95% by weight, a content of greater than or equal to 85% by weight being particularly preferred.
  • At least one of the polymers used is preferably water-soluble. Pullulan is particularly preferred.
  • a suitable Pullulan can have an average molecular weight Mr of 10,000 to 50,000.
  • At least one hair-setting polymer is preferably present, in particular a combination of pullulan and at least one hair-setting polymer.
  • the weight ratio of pullulan to additional hair-setting polymer can be from 1:10 to 10: 1, in particular from 1: 5 to 5: 1 or 1: 2 to 2: 1.
  • the ratio is preferably less than 2: 1, particularly preferably less than 1: 1, for example from 1: 2 to less than 1: 1.
  • the hair-setting polymer can be selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers. It can be natural or synthetic polymers. Synthetic polymers are understood to mean those polymers which are of purely synthetic, non-natural origin, in particular those which can be prepared by free-radical polymerization from ethylenically unsaturated monomers or by polycondensation. Natural polymers are understood to mean polymers of natural origin, which can also be modified chemically or physically afterwards. Particularly preferred are those polymers which have sufficient solubility or dispersibility in the carrier medium, in particular in water, alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures, in order to be present in the carrier medium in dissolved or homogeneously dispersed form.
  • hair-fixing polymers are understood to mean those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 5% aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution or dispersion, are able to deposit a polymer film on the hair and to strengthen the hair.
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are homopolymers or copolymers which are composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinyl lactams, in particular vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl caprolactam, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohols, acrylamides, methacrylamides, alkyl acrylates, dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl methacrylamides, Dialkyl ethacrylamides, dialkylaminoallyl methacrylamides, dialkylaminoalkylacrylamides, alkyl acrylates, alkyl methacrylates, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, the alkyl groups of these monomers preferably being C_L to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably Cl to C3 alkyl groups.
  • Homopolymers of vinylcaprolactan, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide are suitable, for example.
  • Other suitable synthetic film-forming, non-ionic, hair-setting polymers are, for example, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides; Polyvinyl alcohols as well as polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers.
  • Suitable anionic hair-fixing polymers are, for example, synthetic homopolymers or copolymers of monomer units containing acid groups, which are optionally copolymerized with comonomers which contain no acid groups.
  • the acid groups are preferably selected from -COOH, -S0 3 H, -OSO 3 H, -OP0 2 H and -OP0 3 H 2 , of which the carboxylic acid groups are preferred.
  • the acid groups can be neutralized, partially or completely neutralized available. They are preferably 50 to 100% in anionic or neutralized form.
  • Organic or inorganic bases suitable for cosmetic purposes can be used as neutralizing agents.
  • bases are amino alcohols such as, for example, aminomethylpropanol (AMP), triethanolamine, monoethanolamine or tetrahydroxypropylethylenediamine and ammonia, NaOH and others.
  • Suitable monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one acid group, in particular carboxyvinyl monomers.
  • Suitable monomers containing acid groups are, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or maleic anhydride or their monoesters.
  • Comonomers not substituted with acid groups are e.g. Acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ester, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, amine-substituted vinyl monomers such as e.g.
  • Suitable anionic polymers are, in particular, copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid with monomers selected from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid esters, acrylamides, methacrylamides and vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers of crotonic acid and copolymers of crotonic acid with monomers selected from vinyl esters, acrylic acid or methacrylic acid. esters, acrylamides and methacrylamides.
  • a suitable natural polymer is shellac, for example.
  • Preferred anionic polymers are crosslinked or uncrosslinked vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers. Partially esterified copolymers between vinyl methyl ether and maleic anhydride are also preferred.
  • anionic polymers are, for example, terpolymers made from acrylic acid, alkyl acrylate and N-alkylacrylamide, in particular acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / Nt-butylacrylamide, terpolymers or terpolymers made from vinyl acetate, crotonate and vinyl alkanoate, especially vinyl acetate /
  • Crotonate / vinyl neodecanoate copolymers Copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and acrylic or methacrylic acid alkyl esters, the alkyl groups preferably containing 1 to 7 carbon atoms and polystyrene sulfonates.
  • Suitable hair-fixing amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers are polymers which, in addition to acidic or anionic groups, contain basic or cationic groups as further functional groups, in particular primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups.
  • Zwitterionic polymers are polymers which are composed of at least one type of monomer which has both quaternary amine groups and acid groups or of polymers which are composed of at least one first type of monomer which has quaternary amine groups and at least one second type of monomer which acid groups having.
  • Amphoteric polymers are composed, for example, of at least one type of monomer which has acid groups and at least one further type of monomer which has basic amine groups.
  • Examples include copolymers formed from alkyl acrylamide (in particular octylacrylamide), alkylamino alkyl methacrylate (in particular t-butylaminoethyl methacrylate) and two or more monomers selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C1 to C4 alkyl esters, at least one of the monomers having an acid group, such as are available, for example, under the trade name Amphomer "or Amphomer LV-71 ,
  • Suitable polymers are copolymers of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-47), copolymers of acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and acrylates or copolymers of acrylamide, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, 2-amidopropylacrylamino-aminomethyl-aminononate-propyl-acrylamino-aminomethyl-aminononate-propyl-acrylamino-aminomethyl-aminononate-propyl-acrylamino-aminomethyl-aminononate-propyl-acrylamino-aminomethyl-aminononate-propyl-acrylamido-aminomethyl-aminononate-propyl-acrylamino-aminomethyl-aminononate-propyl-acrylamido-aminomethyl-
  • Polymers with monomers bearing betain groups such as e.g. Copolymers of methacryloylethylbetaine and two or more monomers of acrylic acid or their simple esters, known under the INCI name Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine / Acrylates Copolymer.
  • Suitable cationic polymers preferably contain quaternary amine groups.
  • the cationic polymers can be homo- or copolymers, the quaternary nitrogen groups being contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers.
  • the monomers containing ammonium groups can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for. B.
  • the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as Cl to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably Cl to C3 alkyl groups.
  • the monomers containing ammonium groups can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylic id, methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, vinyl caprolactam, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ester, for example vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, preferably the alkyl groups of these monomers Are Cl to C7 or Cl to C3 alkyl groups.
  • Cationic polymers with quaternary amine groups are e.g. which in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the
  • Polyquaternium described polymers such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-11) as well as quaternary silicone polymers or oligomers such as silicone polymers with quaternary end groups (quaternium 80).
  • quaternium 80 quaternary silicone polymers or oligomers
  • cationic polymers e.g. Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl
  • Other cationic polymers are, for example, those under the Trade names LUVIQUAT ® HM 550 copolymer of polyvinylpyrrolidone and imidazolimine methochloride, which is sold under the trade name Merquat ® Plus 3300 terpolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and
  • Acrylamide the terpolymer marketed under the trade name Gaffix ® VC 713 from vinylpyrrolidone, prostitute thylaminoethyl methacrylate and vinylcaprolactam and the vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer sold under the trade name Gafquat ® HS 100.
  • Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Chitosan and chitosan derivatives are also suitable.
  • Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula GOB-N ⁇ AR 3 X " G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose; B is a divalent connecting group, for example alkyls, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene; Rl, R2 and R3 are independently alkyl, Aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, the total number of carbon atoms in R 1 , R 2 and R 3 preferably being a maximum of 20;
  • X is a common counter anion X " , for example a halogen, acetate, phosphate, nitrate or alkyl sulfate, preferably a chloride.
  • a cationic cellulose is sold under the name Polymer JR by Amerchol and has the INCI name Polyquaternium-10.
  • Another cationic Cellulose has the INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is marketed by Amerchol under the trade name Polymer LM-200.
  • a suitable cationic guar derivative is sold under the trade name Jaguar ® R and has the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
  • Particularly preferred cationic substances are chitosan, chitosan salts and chitosan derivatives.
  • Chitosans are completely or partially deacetylated chitins.
  • the molecular weight of the chitosan can be distributed over a broad spectrum, for example from 20,000 to about 5 million g / mol.
  • a low molecular weight chitosan with a molecular weight of 30,000 to 70,000 g / mol is suitable, for example.
  • the molecular weight is preferably above 100,000 g / mol, particularly preferably from 200,000 to 700,000 g / mol.
  • the degree of deacetylation is preferably 10 to 99%, particularly preferably 60 to 99%.
  • a preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ® PC by Amerchol, USA.
  • the chitosan contained has a molecular weight of approx. 200,000 to 300,000 g / mol and is 70 to 85% deacetylated.
  • Suitable chitosan derivatives are quaternized, alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, for example hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl or hydroxybutyl chitosan.
  • the chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably in neutralized or partially neutralized form.
  • the degree of neutralization for the chitosan or the chitosan derivative is preferably at least 50%, particularly preferably between 70 and 100%, based on the number of free base groups.
  • all cosmetically compatible inorganic or organic acids can be used as neutralizing agents such as, for example, formic acid, malic acid, lactic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, hydrochloric acid and others, of which pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and lactic acid are particularly preferred.
  • Suitable liquid carrier media are e.g. Solvents or dispersants such as water, alcohols, ethers, ketones or hydrocarbons or mixtures of two or more of the substances mentioned, provided that the substances or mixtures of substances are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C).
  • the content of the liquid carrier medium in the rollable preparation can be from 20 to 90% by weight or 30 to 70% by weight.
  • the lower monohydric or polyhydric alcohols with 1 to 5 carbon atoms commonly used for cosmetic purposes can be used as alcohols. Atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, glycerol and propylene glycols, in particular 1, 2-propylene glycol, may be contained.
  • the films can contain additives, in particular emulsifiers up to 50% by weight, plasticizers (e.g. glycerol, polyethylene glycols) up to 50% by weight or hair gloss agents, in particular oils such as vegetable oils, hydrocarbon oils or silicone oils up to 30% by weight.
  • plasticizers e.g. glycerol, polyethylene glycols
  • hair gloss agents in particular oils such as vegetable oils, hydrocarbon oils or silicone oils up to 30% by weight.
  • the product according to the invention can moreover contain the additional ingredients customary for hair treatment compositions in amounts of typically 0.01 to 15% by weight, humectants, fragrances in an amount of 0.1 to 0.5% by weight; Preservatives in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight; Buffer substances, such as sodium citrate or sodium phosphate, in an amount of 0.1 to 1.0% by weight; Anfärbe- Substances such as fluorescein sodium salt in an amount of about 0.1 to 1.0% by weight; Hair care substances, such as plant and herbal extracts, protein and silk hydrolyzates, lanolin derivatives, in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight; physiologically compatible silicone derivatives, such as volatile or non-volatile silicone oils or high molecular weight siloxane polymers in an amount of 0.05 to 30% by weight; Light stabilizers, antioxidants, radical scavengers, anti-dandruff substances in an amount of about 0.01 to 2% by weight; Vitamins, combability enhancers, pigments and /
  • a particular embodiment of the invention relates to a hair styling film with a content of at least 85% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 85% by weight to 97% by weight of at least one hair-fixing polymer and more than 3% by weight, in particular greater than 3 to less than 15% by weight .% of at least one surfactant.
  • Suitable hair-fixing polymers are the abovementioned, in particular hair-fixing, polymers based on polysaccharide and hair-fixing nonionic, synthetic polymers.
  • a polymer combination of (a) pullulan and (b) at least one polymer selected from polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer is particularly preferred, the weight ratio of (a) to (b) preferably being less than 2: 1 or less than 1: 1, in particular from 1:10 or 1: 4 to less than 1: 1.
  • Nonionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants can be used as surfactants.
  • Anionic surfactants are, for example, fatty alcohol sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl benzene sulfonates.
  • Amphoteric surfactants are, for example, betaines such as Fatty acid amido alkyl betaines and sulfobetaines and C8 to C22 alkyl betaines.
  • the surfactants are preferably selected from nonionic and cationic surfactants.
  • a surfactant combination of at least one cationic and at least one nonionic is particularly preferably used
  • the weight ratio of cationic to nonionic surfactants can be from L: 10 to 10: 1, from 1: 5 to 5: 1 and in particular from 1: 1.5 to 1.5: 1.
  • Suitable cationic surfactants are surfactants which contain a quaternary ammonium group and can be represented by the general formula N ( + ) R 1 R 2 R 3 R 4 ⁇ , where R 1 to R 4 independently of one another are aliphatic groups, azromatic groups, alkoxy groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, alkylamido groups , Hydroxyalkyl groups, aryl groups or alkaryl groups with 1 to 22 C atoms, where at least one of the groups R 1 to R 4 has at least 8 C atoms and X "represents an anion, for example a halogen, acetate, phosphate, nitrate or alkyl sulfate, preferably a chloride
  • the aliphatic groups can also contain cross-links or other groups such as further amino groups.
  • Suitable cationic surfactants are the chlorides or bromides of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium salts, alkyltrimethylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, tetradecyltriethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethyl amonium chloride or
  • bromides the dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, Alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyridinium chloride, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkylmethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride is particularly preferred.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants are listed, for example, in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", 7th edition, volume 2 in the section "Surfactants", for example, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, ethoxylated nonylphenols, fatty acid mono- and diglycerides, ethoxylated and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated castor oil, fatty acid alkanolamides , ethoxylated fatty acid esters, fatty acid sugar esters or alkyl glycosides.
  • surfactants for example, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, ethoxylated nonylphenols, fatty acid mono- and diglycerides, ethoxylated and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated castor oil, fatty acid alkanolamides , ethoxylated fatty acid esters, fatty acid sugar esters or alkyl glycosides.
  • Preferred surfactants are, for example, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid glycerides or alkylphenols, in particular addition products of 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 mol of propylene oxide with C8 to C22 fatty alcohols, with C12 to C22 fatty acids or with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, C12 to C22 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol adducts from 5 to 60 mol, preferably 20 to 50 mol, of ethylene oxide with castor oil or with hydrogenated (hydrogenated ) Castor oil.
  • Fatty acid sugar esters in particular esters from sucrose and one or two C8 to C22 fatty acids, INCI: sucrose cocoate, sucrose dilaurate, sucrose distearate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose oleate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose ricinoleates, sucrose stearate
  • Polyglyceryl fatty acid esters in particular from one, two or more C8 to C22 fatty acids and polyglycerol with preferably 2 to 20 glyceryl units of alkylglycosides, in particular alkyl oligoclycosides with C6 to C22 alkyl groups.
  • gas bubbles of a suitable gas are enclosed in the foils.
  • Films with enclosed gas bubbles are characterized by particularly good dissolving properties. and a particularly good rubability and incorporability into the hair.
  • the introduction of gas bubbles can be carried out by a method known per se for the production of bubble-containing plastics, e.g. according to one of the following processes: (1) use of a blowing agent (blowing agent) (2) foaming by mechanical stirring of the still liquid or viscous carrier mass (3) by a gas-generating chemical reaction (4) use of a volatile solvent and evaporation at elevated temperatures (5) injection of a liquefied gas into the still viscous carrier mass
  • Blowing agents are chemical substances that decompose on heating and release a gas, e.g. Nitrogen, carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, ammonia or other hydrogen.
  • the hair styling film contains at least 50% by weight of hair-setting polymer, pullulan being present in combination with at least one further hair-setting polymer and the weight ratio of pullulan to the further hair-setting polymer being less than 1: 1, ie the amount used Pullulan is less than that of the other hair-fixing polymer.
  • the pullulan content is preferably 15 to 45% by weight and the content of additional hair-fixing polymer is preferably 30 to 70% by weight.
  • the hair styling film therefore additionally contains at least one polyol.
  • a polyol is an organic compound that has two or more alcoholic hydroxyl groups. Suitable polyols are, for example, polyhydric alcohols with preferably up to 5 carbon atoms, in particular glycols and glycerol, and also sugar alcohols and polyethylene glycols which are liquid at 25 ° C. Glycols are, for example, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or butylene glycol.
  • Sugar alcohols are, for example, sorbitol, manitol, malitol or lactitol.
  • Liquid polyethylene glycols are, for example, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, etc., preferably those with a degree of polymerization of up to about 12 and a molecular weight of up to about 600.
  • a combination of 50 to 97% by weight of hair-fixing polymer and 1 Ibis 50% by weight is preferred, in particular more than 5% by weight, for example 5 to 20 or 10 to 15 %
  • polyol based on the dried, anhydrous film, glycerol being particularly preferred.
  • the polyol content in particular improves the clarity and the elasticity of the film, ie the films do not break through so easily.
  • a further preferred embodiment therefore relates to hair styling films which have been treated with a powdery release agent.
  • the preferably hydrophobic release agent adheres externally to the film and prevents the films from sticking, particularly when stored or used in high air humidity.
  • Suitable release agents are, for example, talc, starch or modified starch.
  • the starch can be modified in one of the generally known ways, including physical, chemical or enzymatic modifications. Physical modifications are, for example, thermal treatments or treatments with shear forces.
  • Chemical modifications include crosslinking, acetylation, esterification, hydroxyethylation, hydroxypropylation, phosphorylation, succinates and substituted succinates. Modified starches with the INCI names Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate and Corn Starch modified are preferred.
  • the release agent is applied to the finished, dried films. Typical amounts used are about 0.01 to 0.1 g, preferably 0.02 to 0.05 g per film with a size of 4 x cm and a thickness of up to 0.5 mm.
  • the films treated with the release agent are characterized by improved non-tack and can still be removed from the packaging well after several weeks without sticking to one another.
  • the release agents unexpectedly leave no visible residues on the hair after a proper hair styling application.
  • the foils can be packed very compactly and in a space-saving manner, for example as a roll or as stacked plates.
  • the foils can be rubbed with wet or damp hands.
  • the completely or partially dissolved film can then be applied to the dry or damp hair and a hairstyle can be designed as if using a conventional styling gel.
  • the films can also be applied directly to wet or damp hair and worked into the hair by hand.
  • Example 1 Rollable preparation 45 g of polyvinylpyrrolidone (Luviskol ® K90) 5 g Rewoteric ® AM CAS (cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, 50% in water) 0.25 g perfume ad 100 g ethanol
  • Example 2 Styling Foil 42.5 g Polyvinylpyrrolidone (Luviskol ® K90) 42.0 g Pullulan 7.5 g Cetyltrimethylammonium Chloride 7.5 g PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.5 g Perfume
  • Rollable doughs are prepared from compositions A, B and C using water as the solvent. By rolling the dough, foils are made and the foils are then dried.
  • the films were assessed on the basis of the following criteria: (a) very good solubility behavior when rubbed with hands with a little water: ++; good: +; sufficient: 0; bad: - (b) foaming behavior when worked into the hair no foaming: +; Foaming: - (c) stickiness behavior good stickiness: +; bad stickiness: - (d) flocculation behavior when worked into the hair: no flocculation, no formation of visible residues: + flocculation, visible residues: - (e) setting behavior: good hair fixation: +, - weak hair fixation: 0; no hair fixation: -
  • Hair styling films made from preparation A are very elastic and can be processed easily, ie they can be dissolved with a little water in the hand and worked into the hair.
  • Films made from preparation B are brittle and brittle and are less easy to process.
  • Films with a size of 4 x 4 mm are produced and each treated with 0.03 g of aftertreatment agent. All foils are not sticky and can be separated easily. The corresponding films without post-treatment, on the other hand, stick to one another after storage for some time and can no longer be easily separated from one another.

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Abstract

The invention concerns a method for producing a hair fixing product in film form, during which a viscous, rollable preparation is firstly produced by dissolving or dispersing a polymer in a liquid carrier medium, after which the preparation is shaped into a film by rolling effected by a rolling device, and the liquid carrier medium is evaporated. The invention also concerns hair styling films, which contain at least one hair fixing polymer, advantageously contain additional surfactants or polyols, and which are preferably treated with an adhering, powdery, hydrophobic release agent.

Description

Beschreibung description
Haarstylingfolien und Verfahren zur Herstellung haarfestigender Produkte in FolienformHair styling films and processes for producing hair-fixing products in film form
Gegenstand der Erfindung ist ein Verfahren zur Herstellung haarfestigender Produkte in Folienform sowie Haarbehandlungsmittel zur Festigung von Haaren in Form einer festen, wasserlöslichen Folie, insbesondere auf Basis von Pullulan und gegebenenfalls zusätzlichen, haarfestigenden Polymeren.The invention relates to a process for the production of hair-fixing products in the form of a film, and to hair treatment compositions for setting hair in the form of a solid, water-soluble film, in particular based on pullulan and, if appropriate, additional hair-fixing polymers.
Um dem menschlichen Haar Festigung und Halt zu geben oder um eine erstellte Frisur zu stabilisieren, werden Haarbehandlungsmittel in der Regel in Form von Gelen, Schäumen, Sprays oder Lotionen auf Basis von flüssigen Lösungsmitteln eingesetzt. Nachteilig an derartigen, lösungsmittelbasierten Produkten ist, dass sie aufgrund des hohen Lösemittel- und/ oder Treibmittelgehalts voluminös und schwer sind und deshalb für eine Mitnahme unterwegs schlecht geeignet sind. Das Problem wird normalerweise dadurch gelöst, dass die Produkte in sehr kleine Behälter verpackt werden. Solche Produkte haben den Nachteil, dass sie nur für sehr wenige Anwendungen ausreichen. Außerdem ist es nicht möglich, sie bereits bei der Herstellung in festen, diskreten, für eine Anwendung aus- reichenden Stücken zu portionieren. Auch eine räumlicheTo give human hair strengthening and hold or to stabilize a created hairstyle, hair treatment agents are generally used in the form of gels, foams, sprays or lotions based on liquid solvents. A disadvantage of such solvent-based products is that, owing to the high solvent and / or propellant content, they are voluminous and heavy and are therefore unsuitable for taking along on the go. The problem is usually solved by packaging the products in very small containers. Such products have the disadvantage that they are only sufficient for very few applications. In addition, it is not possible to portion them into solid, discrete pieces that are sufficient for an application during manufacture. Also a spatial one
Gestaltbarkeit und die Bereitstellung von attraktiven äußeren Formen ist nicht möglich. Dünnflüssige Gele oder thixotrope Gele, die sich unter Druck verflüssigen, können zudem bei der Anwendung von den Händen oder den Haaren ablaufen. Aus der JP 01-131109 sind Haarbehandlungsmittel in Form von Blättern oder Platten bekannt, welche hergestellt werden durch Giessen einer Lösung in Formen und Verdampfen des Lösungsmittels . Derartige Blätter oder Platten sind noch nicht völlig zufriedenstellend, insbesondere hinsichtlich Gleichmäßigkeit der Oberfläche, Produktdicke und damit verbundenen Anwendungseienschaften z.B. bezogen auf die Auflösegeschwindigkeit während der Anwendung.Designability and the provision of attractive external forms is not possible. Thin gels or thixotropic gels that liquefy under pressure can also run off the hands or hair when used. JP 01-131109 discloses hair treatment agents in the form of sheets or plates, which are produced by pouring a solution into molds and evaporating the solvent. Such sheets or plates are not yet completely satisfactory, in particular with regard to the uniformity of the surface, product thickness and associated application properties, for example based on the dissolution rate during use.
Aus der EP 1 317 916 sind Filme bekannt, welche Pullulan oder modifizierte Stärke enthalten und hergestellt werden aus einem Stärkeaufschluß bestimmter Stärkederivate durch Ziehen eines Films nach der sogenannten knife-over-roll Beschichtungsmethode und Konditionierung über Nacht. Die beschrie- benen Filme sind zwar in einem Glas mit 37°C warmem Wasser löslich, das für Anwendungen als Haarstylingfolien relevante Löseverhalten auf feuchten Händen oder feuchtem Haar ist allerdings nicht zufriedenstellend. Die knife-over-roll Beschichtungsmethode erlaubt in der Regel nur die Herstellung von Beschichtungen mit einer Dicke von 0,5 mm. Typische erreichbare Beschichtungsstärken sind 1 bis 30 mm. Filme einer solchen Dicke haben für Anwendungen als Haarstylingfolien ein nicht zufriedenstellendes Auflöseverhalten.From EP 1 317 916 films are known which contain pullulan or modified starch and are produced from a starch digestion of certain starch derivatives by pulling a film by the so-called knife-over-roll coating method and conditioning overnight. Although the films described are soluble in a glass with water at 37 ° C., the dissolving behavior on wet hands or wet hair, which is relevant for applications as hair styling films, is unsatisfactory. The knife-over-roll coating method usually only allows the production of coatings with a thickness of 0.5 mm. Typical achievable coating thicknesses are 1 to 30 mm. Films of such a thickness have an unsatisfactory dissolving behavior for applications as hair styling films.
Die der Erfindung zugrunde liegende Aufgabe bestand darin, im wesentlichen lösungsmittelfreie Folien zur Verfügung zu stellen, welche bei Kontakt mit Feuchtigkeit, d.h. mit relativ wenig Wasser sich gut durch Verreiben mit den Händen auflösen lassen und nach Einarbeitung in das Haar eine haar- festigende Wirkung entfalten und eine Frisurengestaltung ermöglichen. Beim Verreiben sollten keine aufgeweichten, ungelösten Folienpartikel verbleiben, welche beim Stylen der Frisur auf dem Kopf zu unerwünschten, sieht- oder fühlbaren Rückständen führen könnten. Die Folien sollten stapelbar und/oder so flexibel sein, dass sie aufgerollt werden können. Sie sollten gegenüber Luftfeuchtigkeit soweit resistent sein, dass sie beim direkten Kontakt miteinander nicht verkleben und auch nach längerer Lagerung gut voneinander ablösbar bleiben.The object on which the invention was based was to provide essentially solvent-free films which, when in contact with moisture, ie with relatively little water, can be easily dissolved by rubbing with the hands and, after incorporation into the hair, develop a hair-setting effect and enable hairstyle styling. When rubbing in, no softened, Undissolved film particles remain, which could lead to undesirable, visible or tangible residues when styling the hairstyle on the head. The films should be stackable and / or so flexible that they can be rolled up. They should be resistant to air humidity to such an extent that they do not stick together when they come into direct contact with one another and remain easily detachable even after long storage.
Gegenstand der Erfindung ist ein Verfahren zur Herstellung eines haarfestigenden Produktes in Folienform, wobei zuerst durch Lösen oder Dispergieren eines Polymers in einem flüssigen Trägermedium eine walzfähige Zubereitung hergestellt wird und - anschließend die Zubereitung mittels einer Walzvorrichtung durch Walzen in die Form einer Folie gebracht wird und gleichzeitig oder anschließend das flüssige Trägermedium verdampft wird. Gegenstand der Erfindung sind auch Haarstylingfolien, insbesondere erfindungsgemäß hergestellte Haarstylingfolien und die Verwendung dieser Folien zur Haarfestigung.The invention relates to a method for producing a hair-fixing product in the form of a film, a rollable preparation being first produced by dissolving or dispersing a polymer in a liquid carrier medium, and - subsequently the preparation is brought into the form of a film by means of a rolling device by rolling and at the same time or subsequently the liquid carrier medium is evaporated. The invention also relates to hair styling films, in particular hair styling films produced according to the invention, and the use of these films for hair setting.
Die walzfähige Zubereitung kann halbfeste, teigartige Konsistenz haben oder es kann sich um eine viskose Flüssigkeit handeln, mit welcher ein geeigneter Träger beschichtet wird und. durch Walzen mit einer Walzvorrichtung die gewünschte Foliendicke erzeugt wird. Nach dem Trocknen wird die fertige Folie vom Träger entfernt. Geeignete Trägermate- rialien sind z.B. aus Silikon, Metall, metallisierten Polymeren, Polytetrafluorethylen, Polyether/Polyamid Blockco- polymeren, Polyurethanen, Polyvinylchlorid, Nylon, Alkylen/ Styrol Copolymeren, Polyethylen, Polyester oder anderen, wiederablösbaren Materialien. Geeignete Walzvorrichtungen sind insbesondere die aus der Beschichtungs- und Lackier- technik dem Fachmann an sich bekannten, mit mindestens zwei gleich- oder gegenläufigen Walzen oder Rollen versehenen sogenannten Forward-Roll- oder Reverse-Roll-Coater, wobei ein Reverse-Roll Verfahren bevorzugt ist .The rollable preparation can have a semi-solid, dough-like consistency or it can be a viscous liquid with which a suitable carrier is coated and. the desired film thickness is produced by rolling with a rolling device. After drying, the finished film is removed from the carrier. Suitable carrier materials are, for example, silicone, metal, metallized polymers, polytetrafluoroethylene, polyether / polyamide block co polymers, polyurethanes, polyvinyl chloride, nylon, alkylene / styrene copolymers, polyethylene, polyester or other removable materials. Suitable rolling devices are, in particular, the so-called forward roll or reverse roll coater, known per se to the person skilled in the art from coating and coating technology, with at least two co-rotating or counter-rotating rolls or rolls, a reverse roll process being preferred ,
Eine Folie im Sinne der Erfindung ist ein festes, im wesentlichen lösungsmittelfreies Produkt mit planarer, ebener Geometrie und einer Dicke von vorzugsweise kleiner oder gleich 1 mm, insbesondere kleiner als 0,5 mm, z.B. von 0,05 mm bis kleiner 0,5 mm. Der Restgehalt an Lösungsmittel ist vorzugsweise kleiner 5 Gew.%, insbesondere kleiner 1 Gew.%.A film in the sense of the invention is a solid, essentially solvent-free product with a planar, flat geometry and a thickness of preferably less than or equal to 1 mm, in particular less than 0.5 mm, e.g. from 0.05 mm to less than 0.5 mm. The residual solvent content is preferably less than 5% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight.
Polymerepolymers
Geeignete Polymere können alleine schon folienbildende und/oder haarfestigende Eigenschaften aufweisen. Es können aber auch Mischungen von Polymeren eingesetzt werden, wobei die Mischung nach Verdampfen des Lösungsmittels folienbildende und/oder haarfestigende Eigenschaften aufweist. Der Polymergehalt in der walzfähigen Zubereitung kann von 10 bis 80 Gew.%, von 20 bis 70 Gew.% oder von 30 bis 60 Gew.% betragen. Nach Verdampfen des flüssigen Trägermediums kann der Polymergehalt in der fertigen Folie von 50 bis 97 Gew. , von 60 bis 95 Gew.% oder 80 bis 95 Gew.% betragen, besonders bevorzugt ist ein Gehalt von größer oder gleich 85 Gew.%.Suitable polymers alone can have film-forming and / or hair-setting properties. However, mixtures of polymers can also be used, the mixture having film-forming and / or hair-setting properties after evaporation of the solvent. The polymer content in the rollable preparation can be from 10 to 80% by weight, from 20 to 70% by weight or from 30 to 60% by weight. After evaporation of the liquid carrier medium, the polymer content in the finished film can be from 50 to 97% by weight, from 60 to 95% by weight or 80 to 95% by weight, a content of greater than or equal to 85% by weight being particularly preferred.
Vorzugsweise ist mindestens eines der eingesetzten Polymere wasserlöslich. Besondes bevorzugt ist Pullulan. Ein geeig- netes Pullulan kann ein mittleres Molekulargewicht Mr von 10.000 bis 5.0O0.000 aufweisen. Vorzugsweise ist mindestens ein haarfestigendes Polymer enthalten, insbesondere eine Kombination von Pullulan und mindestens einem haarfestigenden Polymer. Das Gewichtsverhältnis von Pullulan zu zusätzlichem haarfestigendem Polymer kann von 1:10 bis 10:1, insbesondere von 1:5 bis 5:1 oder 1:2 bis 2:1 betragen. Das Verhältnis ist vorzugsweise kleiner 2:1, besonders bevorzugt kleiner 1:1, z.B. von 1:2 bis kleiner 1:1.At least one of the polymers used is preferably water-soluble. Pullulan is particularly preferred. A suitable Pullulan can have an average molecular weight Mr of 10,000 to 50,000. At least one hair-setting polymer is preferably present, in particular a combination of pullulan and at least one hair-setting polymer. The weight ratio of pullulan to additional hair-setting polymer can be from 1:10 to 10: 1, in particular from 1: 5 to 5: 1 or 1: 2 to 2: 1. The ratio is preferably less than 2: 1, particularly preferably less than 1: 1, for example from 1: 2 to less than 1: 1.
Das haarfestigende Polymer kann ausgewählt sein aus anionischen, kationischen, zwitterionischen, nichtionischen und amphoteren Polymeren. Es kann sich um natürliche oder um synthetische Polymere handeln. Unter synthetischen Polymeren werden solche Polymere verstanden, welche rein synthetischen, nicht natürlichen Ursprungs sind, insbesondere solche, die durch radikalische Polymerisation aus ethyle- nisch ungesättigten Monomeren oder durch Polykondensation herstellbar sind. Unter natürlichen Polymeren werden Poly- mere natürlichen Ursprungs verstanden, die auch nachträglich chemisch oder physikalisch modifiziert sein können. Bevorzugt sind insbesondere solche Polymere, die eine ausreichende Löslichkeit oder Dispergierbarkeit in dem Trägermedium, insbesondere in Wasser, Alkohol oder Wasser/ Alkohol- Gemischen besitzen, um in dem Trägermedium in gelöster oder homogen dispergierter Form vorzuliegen. Unter haarfestigenden Polymeren werden erfindungsgemäß solche Polymere verstanden, die bei Anwendung in 0,01 bis 5%iger wässriger, alkoholischer oder wässrig-alkoholischer Lösung oder Disper- sion in der Lage sind, auf dem Haar einen Polymerfilm abzuscheiden und das Haar zu festigen. Geeignete nichtionische Polymere sind Homo- oder Copolymere, die aus mindestens einem der folgenden Monomere aufgebaut sind: Vinyllactarnen, insbesondere Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinyl- caprolactam, Vinylestern wie z.B. Vinylacetat, Vinylalkoho- len, Acrylamiden, Methacrylamiden, Alkylacryla iden, Dialkyl- acrylamiden, Alkylmethacrylamiden, Dialkyl ethacrylamiden, Dialkylaminoallylmethacrylamiden, Dialkylaminoalkylacryl- amiden, Alkylacrylaten, Alkylmethacrylaten, Propylenglykol oder Ethylenglykol, wobei die Alkylgruppen dieser Monomere vorzugsweise C_L- bis C7-Alkylgruppen, besonders bevorzugt Cl- bis C3 -Alkylgruppen sind. Geeignet sind z.B. Homopolymere des Vinylcaprolactaτns, des Vinylpyrrolidons oder des N-Vinylform- amids . Weitere geeignete synthetische filmbildende, nicht- ionische, haarfestigende Polymere sind z.B. Copolymerisate aus Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylacetat, Terpolymere aus Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylacetat und Vinylpropionat , Polyacrylamide; Poly- vinylalkohole sowie Polyethylenglykol/Polypropylenglykol Copolymere. Besonders bevorzugt sind Polyvinylpyrrolidon, Polyvinylcaprolactam und deren Copolymere mit mindestens einem weiteren nichtionischen Monomer, insbesondere Polyvinylpyrrolidon/ Vinylacetat Copolymere.The hair-setting polymer can be selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers. It can be natural or synthetic polymers. Synthetic polymers are understood to mean those polymers which are of purely synthetic, non-natural origin, in particular those which can be prepared by free-radical polymerization from ethylenically unsaturated monomers or by polycondensation. Natural polymers are understood to mean polymers of natural origin, which can also be modified chemically or physically afterwards. Particularly preferred are those polymers which have sufficient solubility or dispersibility in the carrier medium, in particular in water, alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures, in order to be present in the carrier medium in dissolved or homogeneously dispersed form. According to the invention, hair-fixing polymers are understood to mean those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 5% aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution or dispersion, are able to deposit a polymer film on the hair and to strengthen the hair. Suitable nonionic polymers are homopolymers or copolymers which are composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinyl lactams, in particular vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl caprolactam, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohols, acrylamides, methacrylamides, alkyl acrylates, dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl methacrylamides, Dialkyl ethacrylamides, dialkylaminoallyl methacrylamides, dialkylaminoalkylacrylamides, alkyl acrylates, alkyl methacrylates, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, the alkyl groups of these monomers preferably being C_L to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably Cl to C3 alkyl groups. Homopolymers of vinylcaprolactan, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide are suitable, for example. Other suitable synthetic film-forming, non-ionic, hair-setting polymers are, for example, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides; Polyvinyl alcohols as well as polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers. Polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinylcaprolactam and their copolymers with at least one further nonionic monomer, in particular polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are particularly preferred.
Geeignete anionische haarfestigende Polymere sind z.B. synthetische Homo- oder Copolymere aus Säuregruppen enthaltenden Monomereinheiten, welche gegebenenfalls mit Comono- meren, die keine Säuregruppen enthalten, copolymerisiert sind. Die Säuregruppen sind vorzugsweise ausgewählt aus -COOH, -S03H, -OSO3H, -OP02H und -OP03H2, von denen die Carbonsäuregruppen bevorzugt sind. Die Säuregruppen können unneutralisiert , teilweise oder vollständig neutralisiert vorliegen. Sie liegen vorzugsweise zu 50 bis 100% in anionischer bzw. neutralisierter Form vor. Als Neutralisationsmittel können für kosmetische Zwecke geeignete organische oder anorganische Basen verwendet werden. Beispiele für Basen sind Aminoalkohole wie z.B. Aminomethylpropanol (AMP), Triethanolamin, Monoethanolamin oder Tetrahydroxypropyl- ethylendiamin und Ammoniak, NaOH und andere. Geeignete Monomere sind ungesättigte, radikalisch polymerisierbare Verbindungen, welche mindestens eine Säuregruppe tragen, insbesondere Carboxyvinylmonomere . Geeignete Säuregruppen enthaltende Monomere sind z.B. Acrylsäure, Methacrylsäure, Crotonsäure, Maleinsäure bzw. Maleinsäureanhydrid oder deren Monoester .Suitable anionic hair-fixing polymers are, for example, synthetic homopolymers or copolymers of monomer units containing acid groups, which are optionally copolymerized with comonomers which contain no acid groups. The acid groups are preferably selected from -COOH, -S0 3 H, -OSO 3 H, -OP0 2 H and -OP0 3 H 2 , of which the carboxylic acid groups are preferred. The acid groups can be neutralized, partially or completely neutralized available. They are preferably 50 to 100% in anionic or neutralized form. Organic or inorganic bases suitable for cosmetic purposes can be used as neutralizing agents. Examples of bases are amino alcohols such as, for example, aminomethylpropanol (AMP), triethanolamine, monoethanolamine or tetrahydroxypropylethylenediamine and ammonia, NaOH and others. Suitable monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one acid group, in particular carboxyvinyl monomers. Suitable monomers containing acid groups are, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or maleic anhydride or their monoesters.
Nicht mit Säuregruppen substituierte Comonomere sind z.B. Acrylamid, Methacrylamid, Alkyl- und Dialkylacrylamid, Alkyl- und Dialkylmethacrylamid, Alkylacrylat , Alkylmeth- acrylat, Vinylcaprolacton, Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylester, Vinylalkohol , Propylenglykol oder Ethylenglykol , amin- substituierte Vinylmonomere wie z.B. Dialkylaminoalkyl- acrylat, Dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylat , Monoalkylaminoalkyl- acrylat und Monoalkylaminoalkylmethacrylat , wobei die Alkylgruppen dieser Monomere vorzugsweise Cl- bis C7-Alkylgruppen, besonders bevorzugt Cl- bis C3 -Alkylgruppen sind.Comonomers not substituted with acid groups are e.g. Acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ester, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, amine-substituted vinyl monomers such as e.g. Dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate and monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, the alkyl groups of these monomers preferably being Cl to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably Cl to C3 alkyl groups.
Geeignete anionische Polymere sind insbesondere Copolymere der Acrylsäure oder Methacrylsäure mit Monomeren ausgewählt aus Acrylsäure- oder Methacrylsäureestern, Acrylamiden, Methacrylamiden und Vinylpyrrolidon, Homopolymere der Crotonsäure sowie Copolymere der Crotonsäure mit Monomeren ausgewählt aus Vinylestern, Acrylsäure- oder Methacrylsäure- estern, Acrylamiden und Methacrylamiden. Ein geeignetes natürliches Polymer ist beispielsweise Schellack. Bevorzugte anionische Polymere sind vernetzte oder unvernetzte Vinyl- acetat/Crotonsäure Copolymere. Ebenso bevorzugt sind partialveresterte Copolymere zwischen Vinylmethylether und Maleinsäureanhydrid. Weitere bevorzugte anionische Polymere sind z.B. Terpolymere aus Acrylsäure, Alkylacrylat und N- Alkylacrylamid, insbesondere Acrylsäure/ Ethylacrylat/N-t- Butylacrylamid Terpolymere oder Terpolymere aus Vinylacetat, Crotonat und Vinylalkanoat, insbesondere Vinylacetat/Suitable anionic polymers are, in particular, copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid with monomers selected from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid esters, acrylamides, methacrylamides and vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers of crotonic acid and copolymers of crotonic acid with monomers selected from vinyl esters, acrylic acid or methacrylic acid. esters, acrylamides and methacrylamides. A suitable natural polymer is shellac, for example. Preferred anionic polymers are crosslinked or uncrosslinked vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers. Partially esterified copolymers between vinyl methyl ether and maleic anhydride are also preferred. Further preferred anionic polymers are, for example, terpolymers made from acrylic acid, alkyl acrylate and N-alkylacrylamide, in particular acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / Nt-butylacrylamide, terpolymers or terpolymers made from vinyl acetate, crotonate and vinyl alkanoate, especially vinyl acetate /
Crotonat/Vinylneodecanoat Copolymere; Copolymere aus Acryl- oder Methacrylsäure und Acryl- oder Methacrylsäurealkyl- estern, wobei die Alkylgruppen vorzugsweise 1 bis 7 C-Atome enthalten sowie Polystyrolsudfonate .Crotonate / vinyl neodecanoate copolymers; Copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and acrylic or methacrylic acid alkyl esters, the alkyl groups preferably containing 1 to 7 carbon atoms and polystyrene sulfonates.
Geeignete haarfestigende amphotere oder zwitterionische Polymere sind Polymere, welche neben sauren oder anionischen Gruppen als weitere funktionelle Gruppen basische oder kationische Gruppen, insbesondere primäre, sekundäre, tertiäre oder quaternäre Amingruppen enthalten. Zwitterionische Polymer sind Polymere, welche aufgebaut sind aus mindestens einer Monomerart, welche sowohl quaternäre Amingruppen als auch Säuregruppen aufweist oder aus Polymeren, welche aufgebaut sind aus mindestens einer ersten Monomer- art, welche quaternäre Aming-ruppen aufweist und mindestens einer zweiten Monomerart, welche Säuregruppen aufweist. Amphotere Polymere sind z.B. aufgebaut aus mindestens einer Monomerart, welche Säuregruppen aufweist und mindestens einer weiteren Monomerart, welche basische Amingruppen aufweist. Beispiele hierfür sind Copolymere gebildet aus Alkylacrylamid (insbesondere Octylacrylamid) , Alkylamino- alkylmethacrylat (insbesondere t-Butylaminoethylmethacrylat) und zwei oder mehr Monomeren ausgewählt aus Acrylsäure, Methacrylsäure oder deren Cl- bis C4-Alkylestern, wobei mindestens eines der Monomere eine Säuregruppe aufweist, wie sie z.B. unter dem Handelsnamen Amphomer" oder Amphomer LV- 71 erhältlich sind.Suitable hair-fixing amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers are polymers which, in addition to acidic or anionic groups, contain basic or cationic groups as further functional groups, in particular primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups. Zwitterionic polymers are polymers which are composed of at least one type of monomer which has both quaternary amine groups and acid groups or of polymers which are composed of at least one first type of monomer which has quaternary amine groups and at least one second type of monomer which acid groups having. Amphoteric polymers are composed, for example, of at least one type of monomer which has acid groups and at least one further type of monomer which has basic amine groups. Examples include copolymers formed from alkyl acrylamide (in particular octylacrylamide), alkylamino alkyl methacrylate (in particular t-butylaminoethyl methacrylate) and two or more monomers selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C1 to C4 alkyl esters, at least one of the monomers having an acid group, such as are available, for example, under the trade name Amphomer "or Amphomer LV-71 ,
Weitere geeignete Polymere sind Copolymere von Acrylsäure, Methylacrylat und Methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium- chlorid (INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-47) , Copolymere aus Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid und Acrylaten oder Copolymere aus Acrylamid, Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium- chlorid, 2-Amidopropylacrylamidsulfonat und Dimethylamino- propylamin (INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-43) . Geeignet sind auch Polymere mit Betaingruppen tragenden Monomeren wie z.B. Copolymere aus Methacryloylethylbetain und zwei oder mehr Monomeren von Acrylsäure oder deren einfachen Estern, bekannt unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine/Acrylates Copolymer.Other suitable polymers are copolymers of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-47), copolymers of acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and acrylates or copolymers of acrylamide, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, 2-amidopropylacrylamino-aminomethyl-aminononate-propyl-acrylamino-aminomethyl-aminononate-propyl-acrylamino-aminomethyl-aminononate-propyl-acrylamino-aminomethyl-aminononate-propyl-acrylamido-aminomethyl-aminononate-propyl-acrylamino-aminomethyl-aminomethyl-aminomethyl-aminomethyl-aminomethyl-aminomethyl-aminomethyl-aminomethyl-aminomethyl-aminomethyl-aminomethyl-aminomethyl-aminomethyl-aminomethyl-aminomethyl- -43). Polymers with monomers bearing betain groups, such as e.g. Copolymers of methacryloylethylbetaine and two or more monomers of acrylic acid or their simple esters, known under the INCI name Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine / Acrylates Copolymer.
Geeignete kationische Polymere enthalten vorzugsweise quaternäre Amingruppen. Die kationischen Polymere können Homo- oder Copolymere sein, wobei die quaternären Stickstoffgruppen entweder in der Polymerkette oder vorzugsweise als Substituent an einem oder mehreren der Monomeren enthalten sind. Die Ammoniumgruppen enthaltenden Monomere können mit nicht kationischen Monomeren copolymerisiert sein. Geeignete kationische Monomere sind ungesättigte , radikalisch polymerisierbare Verbindungen, welche mindestens eine kationische Gruppe tragen, insbesondere ammoniumsubstituierte Vinylmonomere wie z . B . Trialkylmethacryloxyalkyl- ammonium, Trialkylacryloxyalkylammoniuiτi, Dialkyldiallyl- ammonium und quaternäre Vinylammoniummonomere mit cycli- schen, kationische Stickstoffe enthaltenden Gruppen wie Pyridinium, Imidazolium oder quaternäre Pyrrolidone, z.B. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyrid-Lnium, oder Alkyl- vinylpyrrolidon Salze. Die Alkylgruppen dieser Monomere sind vorzugsweise niedere Alkylgruppen wie z.B. Cl- bis C7-Alkyl- gruppen, besonders bevorzugt Cl- bis C3 -Alkylgruppen. Die Ammoniumgruppen enthaltenden Monomere Können mit nicht kationischen Monomeren copolymerisiert sein. Geeignete Comonomere sind beispielsweise Acryla id, Methacrylamid, Alkyl- und Dialkylacrylamid, Alkyl- und Dialkylmethacryl- amid, Alkylacrylat , Alkylmethacrylat , Vinylcaprolacton, Vinylcaprolactam, Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylester, z.B. Vinyl- acetat, Vinylalkohol, Propylenglykol oder Ethylenglykol , wobei die Alkylgruppen dieser Monomere vorzugsweise Cl- bis C7- oder Cl- bis C3-Alkylgruppen sind.Suitable cationic polymers preferably contain quaternary amine groups. The cationic polymers can be homo- or copolymers, the quaternary nitrogen groups being contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The monomers containing ammonium groups can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for. B. Trialkylmethacryloxyalkyl- ammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammoniuiτi, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, for example alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridiumnium, or alkyl vinylpyrrolidone. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as Cl to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably Cl to C3 alkyl groups. The monomers containing ammonium groups can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylic id, methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, vinyl caprolactam, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ester, for example vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, preferably the alkyl groups of these monomers Are Cl to C7 or Cl to C3 alkyl groups.
Kationische Polymere mit quaternären Amingruppen sind z.B. die im CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary unter denCationic polymers with quaternary amine groups are e.g. which in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the
Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium beschriebenen Polymere wie Methylvinylimidazoliumchlorid/Vinylpyrrolidon Copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) oder quaternisiert es Vinylpyrrolidon/ Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat Copolymer (Polyquaternium-11) sowie quaternäre Silikonpolymere bzw. -oligomere wie beispielsweise Silikonpolymere mit quaternären Endgruppen (Quaternium-80) . Von den kationischen Polymeren ist z.B. Vinylpyrrolidon/DimethylaminoethylmethacrylatmethosulfatDesignations Polyquaternium described polymers such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-11) as well as quaternary silicone polymers or oligomers such as silicone polymers with quaternary end groups (quaternium 80). Of the cationic polymers e.g. Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl
Copolymer, das unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Gafquat® 755 N und Gafquat 734 vertrieben wird, geeignet. Weitere kationische Polymere sind beispielsweise das unter dem Handelsnamen LUVIQUAT® HM 550 vertriebene Copolymer aus Polyvinylpyrrolidon und Imidazoliminmethochlorid, das unter dem Handelsnamen Merquat® Plus 3300 vertriebene Terpolymer aus Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid, Natriumacrylat undCopolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ® 755 N and Gafquat 734 is distributed, are suitable. Other cationic polymers are, for example, those under the Trade names LUVIQUAT ® HM 550 copolymer of polyvinylpyrrolidone and imidazolimine methochloride, which is sold under the trade name Merquat ® Plus 3300 terpolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and
Acrylamid, das unter dem Handelsnamen Gaffix® VC 713 vertriebene Terpolymer aus Vinylpyrrolidon, Dirne thylamino- ethylmethacrylat und Vinylcaprolactam und das unter dem Handelsnamen Gafquat® HS 100 vertriebene Vinylpyrrolidon/ Methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid Copolymer .Acrylamide, the terpolymer marketed under the trade name Gaffix ® VC 713 from vinylpyrrolidone, prostitute thylaminoethyl methacrylate and vinylcaprolactam and the vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer sold under the trade name Gafquat ® HS 100.
Geeignete kationische Polymere, die von natürlichen Polymeren abgeleitet sind, sind kationische Derivate von Polysacchariden, beispielsweise kationische Derivate von Cellulose, Stärke oder Guar . Geeignet sind weiterhin Chitosan und Chitosanderivate . Kationische Polysaccharide haben die allgemeine Formel G-O-B-NΑAR3 X" G ist ein Anhydroglucoserest , beispielsweise Stärke- oder Cel luloseanhydroglucose ; B ist eine divalente Verbindungsgruppe , beispielsweise Alkyl en, Oxyalkylen, Polyoxyalkylen oder Hydroxyalkylen; Rl , R2 und R3 sind unabhängig voneinander Alkyl , Aryl , Alkylaryl , Arylalkyl , Alkoxyalkyl oder Alkoxyaryl mit jeweils bis zu 18 C-Atomen, wobei die Gesamtzahl der C-Atome in R1, R2 und R3 vorzugsweise maximal 20 ist ;Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Chitosan and chitosan derivatives are also suitable. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula GOB-NΑAR 3 X " G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose; B is a divalent connecting group, for example alkyls, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene; Rl, R2 and R3 are independently alkyl, Aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, the total number of carbon atoms in R 1 , R 2 and R 3 preferably being a maximum of 20;
X ist ein übliches Gegenanion X" , beispielsweise ein Halogen, Acetat , Phosphat , Nitrat oder Alkylsulfat , vorzugsweise ein Chlorid. Eine kationische Cellulose wird unter der Bezeichnung Polymer JR von Amerchol ertrieben und hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium- 10. Eine weitere kationische Cellulose trägt die INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-24 und wird unter dem Handelsnamen Polymer LM-200 von Amerchol vertrieben. Ein geeignetes kationisches Guarderivat wird unter der Handelsbezeichnung Jaguar® R vertrieben und hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride. Besonders bevorzugte kationaktive Stoffe sind Chitosan, Chitosansalze und Chitosan-Derivate . Chitosane sind vollständig oder partiell deacetylierte Chitine. Das Molekulargewicht des Chitosans kann über ein breites Spektrum verteilt sein, beispielsweise von 20.000 bis ca. 5 Millionen g/mol. Geeignet ist beispielsweise ein niedermolekulares Chitosan mit einem Molekulargewicht von 30.000 bis 70.000 g/mol. Vorzugsweise liegt das Molekulargewicht jedoch über 100.000 g/mol, besonders bevorzugt von 200.000 bis 700.000 g/mol . Der Deacetylierungsgrad beträgt vorzugsweise 10 bis 99%, besonders bevorzugt 60 bis 99%. Ein bevorzugtes Chitosansalz ist Chitosoniumpyrrolidoncarboxylat, welches beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Kytamer® PC von der Firma Amerchol, USA, vertrieben wird. Das enthaltene Chitosan hat ein Molekulargewicht von ca. 200.000 bis 300.000 g/mol und ist zu 70 bis 85% entacetyliert . Als Chitosanderivate kommen quaternisierte, alkylierte oder hydroxyalkylierte Derivate, beispielsweise Hydroxyethyl- , Hydroxypropyl- oder Hydroxybutylchitosan in Betracht. Die Chitosane oder Chitosanderivate liegen vorzugsweise in neutralisierter oder partiell neutralisierter Form vor. Der Neutralisationsgrad für das Chitosan oder das Chitosanderivat liegt vorzugsweise bei mindestens 50%, besonders bevorzugt zwischen 70 und 100%, bezogen auf die Anzahl der freien Basengruppen. Als Neutrali- sationsmittel können prinzipiell alle kosmetisch verträglichen anorganischen oder organischen Säuren verwendet werden wie beispielsweise Ameisensäure, Äpfelsäure, Milchsäure, Pyrrolidoncarbonsäure, Salzsäure u.a., von denen die Pyrroli- doncarbonsäure und die Milchsäure besonders bevorzugt sind.X is a common counter anion X " , for example a halogen, acetate, phosphate, nitrate or alkyl sulfate, preferably a chloride. A cationic cellulose is sold under the name Polymer JR by Amerchol and has the INCI name Polyquaternium-10. Another cationic Cellulose has the INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is marketed by Amerchol under the trade name Polymer LM-200. A suitable cationic guar derivative is sold under the trade name Jaguar ® R and has the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Particularly preferred cationic substances are chitosan, chitosan salts and chitosan derivatives. Chitosans are completely or partially deacetylated chitins. The molecular weight of the chitosan can be distributed over a broad spectrum, for example from 20,000 to about 5 million g / mol. A low molecular weight chitosan with a molecular weight of 30,000 to 70,000 g / mol is suitable, for example. However, the molecular weight is preferably above 100,000 g / mol, particularly preferably from 200,000 to 700,000 g / mol. The degree of deacetylation is preferably 10 to 99%, particularly preferably 60 to 99%. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ® PC by Amerchol, USA. The chitosan contained has a molecular weight of approx. 200,000 to 300,000 g / mol and is 70 to 85% deacetylated. Suitable chitosan derivatives are quaternized, alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, for example hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl or hydroxybutyl chitosan. The chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably in neutralized or partially neutralized form. The degree of neutralization for the chitosan or the chitosan derivative is preferably at least 50%, particularly preferably between 70 and 100%, based on the number of free base groups. In principle, all cosmetically compatible inorganic or organic acids can be used as neutralizing agents such as, for example, formic acid, malic acid, lactic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, hydrochloric acid and others, of which pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and lactic acid are particularly preferred.
Trägermediumtransfer medium
Als flüssiges Trägermedium eignen sich z.B. Löse- oder Dispergiermittel wie Wasser, Alkohole, Ether, Ketone oder Kohlenwasserstoffe oder Gemische aus zwei oder mehreren der genannten Stoffe, sofern die Stoffe oder Stoffgemische bei Raumtemperatur (25 °C) flüssig sind. Der Gehalt des flüssigen Trägermediums in der walzfähigen Zubereitung kann "von 20 bis 90 Gew.% oder 30 bis 70 Gew.% betragen. Als Alkohole können insbesondere die für kosmetische Zwecke üblicherw ise verwendeten niederen ein- oder mehrwertigen Alkohole mit 1 bis 5 C-Atomen wie z.B. Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglykol, Glycerin und Propylenglykole, insbesondere 1, 2-Propylen- glykol, enthalten sein.Suitable liquid carrier media are e.g. Solvents or dispersants such as water, alcohols, ethers, ketones or hydrocarbons or mixtures of two or more of the substances mentioned, provided that the substances or mixtures of substances are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C). The content of the liquid carrier medium in the rollable preparation can be from 20 to 90% by weight or 30 to 70% by weight. In particular, the lower monohydric or polyhydric alcohols with 1 to 5 carbon atoms commonly used for cosmetic purposes can be used as alcohols. Atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, glycerol and propylene glycols, in particular 1, 2-propylene glycol, may be contained.
Zusatzstoffe Die Folien können zur weiteren Optimierung Zusatzstoffe enthalten, insbesondere Emulgatoren bis 50 Gew.%, Weichmacher (z.B. Glycerin, Polyethylenglykole) bis 50 Gew.% oder Haarglanzwirkstoffe, insbesondere Öle wie z.B. Pflanzenöle, Kohlenwasserstofföle oder Silikonöle bis 30 Gew.%. Das erfindungsgemäße Produkt kann darüber hinaus die ür Haarbehandlungsmittel üblichen Zusatzbestandteile in Mengen von typischerweise 0,01 bis 15 Gew.% enthalten, Feuchthaltemittel, Duftstoffe in einer Menge von 0,1 bis 0,5 Gew.%; Konservierungsmittel in einer Menge von 0,01 bis 1,0 Gew.%; Puffersubstanzen, wie z.B. Natriumeitrat oder Natirium- phosphat, in einer Menge von 0,1 bis 1,0 Gew.%; Anfärbe- Stoffe, wie z.B. Fluorescein Natriumsalz, in einer Menge von etwa 0,1 bis 1,0 Gew.%; Haarpflegestoffe, wie z.B. Pflanzen- und Kräuterextrakte, Protein- und Seidenhydrolysate, Lanolinderivate, in einer Menge von 0,1 bis 5 Gew.%; physio- logisch verträgliche Silikonderivate, wie z.B. flüchtige oder nicht-flüchtige Silikonöle oder hochmolekulare Siloxan- polymere in einer Menge von 0,05 bis 30 Gew.%; Lichtschutzmittel, Antioxidantien, Radikalfänger, Antischuppenwirk- Stoffe in einer Menge von etwa 0,01 bis 2 Gew.%; Vitamine, Kämmbarkeitsverbesserer, Pigmente und/oder wasserunlösliche, partikelförmige Feststoffe.Additives For further optimization, the films can contain additives, in particular emulsifiers up to 50% by weight, plasticizers (e.g. glycerol, polyethylene glycols) up to 50% by weight or hair gloss agents, in particular oils such as vegetable oils, hydrocarbon oils or silicone oils up to 30% by weight. The product according to the invention can moreover contain the additional ingredients customary for hair treatment compositions in amounts of typically 0.01 to 15% by weight, humectants, fragrances in an amount of 0.1 to 0.5% by weight; Preservatives in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight; Buffer substances, such as sodium citrate or sodium phosphate, in an amount of 0.1 to 1.0% by weight; Anfärbe- Substances such as fluorescein sodium salt in an amount of about 0.1 to 1.0% by weight; Hair care substances, such as plant and herbal extracts, protein and silk hydrolyzates, lanolin derivatives, in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight; physiologically compatible silicone derivatives, such as volatile or non-volatile silicone oils or high molecular weight siloxane polymers in an amount of 0.05 to 30% by weight; Light stabilizers, antioxidants, radical scavengers, anti-dandruff substances in an amount of about 0.01 to 2% by weight; Vitamins, combability enhancers, pigments and / or water-insoluble, particulate solids.
Eine besondere Ausführungsform der Erfindung betrifft eine Haarstylingfolie mit einem Gehalt an mindestens 85 Gew.%, insbesondere größer oder gleich 85 Gew.% bis 97 Gew.% mindestens eines haarfestigenden Polymers und mehr als 3 Gew.%, insbesondere größer 3 bis kleiner 15 Gew.% mindestens eines Tensids. Geeignete haarfestigende Polymere sind die oben genannten, insbesondere haarfestigende Polymere auf Polysaccharidbasis und haarfestigende nichtionische, synthetische Polymere. Besonders bevorzugt ist eine Polymerkombination aus (a) Pullulan und (b) mindestens einem Polymer, ausgewählt aus Polyvinylpyrrolidon und Polyvinylpyrrolidon/ Vinylacetat Copolymer, wobei das Gewichtsverhältnis von (a) zu (b) vorzugsweise kleiner 2:1 oder kleiner 1:1, insbesondere von 1:10 oder 1:4 bis kleiner 1:1 beträgt.A particular embodiment of the invention relates to a hair styling film with a content of at least 85% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 85% by weight to 97% by weight of at least one hair-fixing polymer and more than 3% by weight, in particular greater than 3 to less than 15% by weight .% of at least one surfactant. Suitable hair-fixing polymers are the abovementioned, in particular hair-fixing, polymers based on polysaccharide and hair-fixing nonionic, synthetic polymers. A polymer combination of (a) pullulan and (b) at least one polymer selected from polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer is particularly preferred, the weight ratio of (a) to (b) preferably being less than 2: 1 or less than 1: 1, in particular from 1:10 or 1: 4 to less than 1: 1.
Als Tenside können nichtionische, kationische, anionische oder amphotere Tenside eingesetzt werden. Anionische Tenside sind z.B. Fettalkoholsulfate, Alkylethersulfate, Alkyl- benzolsulfonate. Amphotere Tenside sind z.B. Betaine wie Fettsäureamidoalkylbetaine und Sulfobetaine und C8- bis C22- Alkylbetaine . Vorzugsweise sind die Tenside ausgewählt aus nichtionischen und kationischen Tensiden. Besonders bevorzugt wird eine Tensidkombination eingesetzt aus mindestens einem kationischen und mindestens inem nichtionischenNonionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants can be used as surfactants. Anionic surfactants are, for example, fatty alcohol sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl benzene sulfonates. Amphoteric surfactants are, for example, betaines such as Fatty acid amido alkyl betaines and sulfobetaines and C8 to C22 alkyl betaines. The surfactants are preferably selected from nonionic and cationic surfactants. A surfactant combination of at least one cationic and at least one nonionic is particularly preferably used
Tensid. Das Gewichtsverhältnis von kationischen zu nichtionischen Tensiden kann dabei von L :10 bis 10:1, von 1:5 bis 5:1 und insbesondere von 1:1,5 bis 1,5:1 betragen.Surfactant. The weight ratio of cationic to nonionic surfactants can be from L: 10 to 10: 1, from 1: 5 to 5: 1 and in particular from 1: 1.5 to 1.5: 1.
Geeignete kationische Tenside sind Tenside, welche eine quaternäre Ammoniumgruppe enthalten und durch die allgemeine Formel N(+)R1R2R3R4 χ dargestellt werden können, wobei Rl bis R4 unabhängig voneinander aliphatische Gruppen, azromatische Gruppen, Alkoxygruppen, Polyoxyalkylengruppeπ, Alkylamidogruppen, Hydroxyalkylgruppen, Arylgruppen oder Alkarylgruppen mit 1 bis 22 C-Atomen bedeuten, wobei mindestens eine der Gruppen Rl bis R4 mindestens 8 C-Atome aufweist und X" ein Anion dar- stellt, beispielsweise ein Halogen, Acetat, Phosphat, Nitrat oder Alkylsulfat, vorzugsweise ein Chlorid. Die aliphatiεchen Gruppen können zusätzlich zu den Ko-hlenstoffatomen und den Wasserstoffatomen auch Querverbindungen oder andere Gruppen wie beispielsweise weitere Aminogruppen enthalten.Suitable cationic surfactants are surfactants which contain a quaternary ammonium group and can be represented by the general formula N ( + ) R 1 R 2 R 3 R 4 χ , where R 1 to R 4 independently of one another are aliphatic groups, azromatic groups, alkoxy groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, alkylamido groups , Hydroxyalkyl groups, aryl groups or alkaryl groups with 1 to 22 C atoms, where at least one of the groups R 1 to R 4 has at least 8 C atoms and X "represents an anion, for example a halogen, acetate, phosphate, nitrate or alkyl sulfate, preferably a chloride In addition to the carbon atoms and the hydrogen atoms, the aliphatic groups can also contain cross-links or other groups such as further amino groups.
Beispiele für geeignete kationische Tenside sind die Chloride oder Bromide von Alkyldimethylbenzylammoniumsalzen, Alkyltri- methylammoniumsalze, beispielsweise Cetyltrimethylammonium- chlorid oder -bromid, Tetradecyltriτnethylammoniumchlorid oder -bromid, Alkyldimethylhydroxyethylaτnmoniumchloride oderExamples of suitable cationic surfactants are the chlorides or bromides of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium salts, alkyltrimethylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, tetradecyltriethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethyl amonium chloride or
-bromide, die Dialkyldimethylammoniumchloride oder -bromide, Alkylpyridiniumsalze, beispielsweise Lauryl- oder Cetylpyri- diniumchlorid, Alkylamidoethyltrimethylammoniumethersulfate sowie Verbindungen mit kationischem Charakter wie Aminoxide, beispielsweise Alkylmethylaminoxide oder Alkylaminoethyldi- methylaminoxide . Besonders bevorzugt ist Cetyltrimethyl- ammoniumchlorid.bromides, the dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, Alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyridinium chloride, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkylmethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride is particularly preferred.
Geeignete nichtionische Tenside sind beispielsweise im „International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", 7. Auflage, Band 2 im Abschnitt „Surfactants" aufgeführt, z.B. oxethylierte Fettalkohole, oxethylierte Nonylphenole, Fettsäuremono- und -diglyceride, ethoxyliertes und hydriertes oder nicht hydriertes Rizinusöl, Fettsäurealkanolamide, oxethylierte Fettsäureester, Fettsäurezuckerester oder Alkylglykoside. Bevorzugte Tenside sind z.B. Ethoxylierte Fettalkohole, Fettsäuren, Fettsäureglyceride oder Alkylphenole, insbesondere Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 30 mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 1 bis 5 mol Propylenoxid an C8- bis C22-Fettalkohole, an C12- bis C22-Fettsäuren oder an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkyl- gruppe, C12- bis C22-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 mol, vorzugsweise 20 bis 50 mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl oder an gehärtetes (hydriertes) Rizinusöl. Fettsäurezuckerester, insbesondere Ester aus Saccharose und ein oder zwei C8- bis C22-Fettsäuren, INCI : Sucrose Cocoate, Sucrose Dilaurate, Sucrose Distearate, Sucrose Laurate, Sucrose Myristate, Sucrose Oleate, Sucrose Palmitate, Sucrose Ricinoleate, Sucrose Stearate Polyglycerylfettsäureester, insbesondere aus ein, zwei oder mehreren C8- bis C22-Fettsäuren uncl Polyglycerin mit vorzugsweise 2 bis 20 Glyceryleinheiten Alkylglycoside, insbesondere Alkyloligocjlycoside mit C6- bis C-22-Alkylgruppen.Suitable nonionic surfactants are listed, for example, in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", 7th edition, volume 2 in the section "Surfactants", for example, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, ethoxylated nonylphenols, fatty acid mono- and diglycerides, ethoxylated and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated castor oil, fatty acid alkanolamides , ethoxylated fatty acid esters, fatty acid sugar esters or alkyl glycosides. Preferred surfactants are, for example, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid glycerides or alkylphenols, in particular addition products of 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 mol of propylene oxide with C8 to C22 fatty alcohols, with C12 to C22 fatty acids or with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, C12 to C22 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol adducts from 5 to 60 mol, preferably 20 to 50 mol, of ethylene oxide with castor oil or with hydrogenated (hydrogenated ) Castor oil. Fatty acid sugar esters, in particular esters from sucrose and one or two C8 to C22 fatty acids, INCI: sucrose cocoate, sucrose dilaurate, sucrose distearate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose oleate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose ricinoleates, sucrose stearate Polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, in particular from one, two or more C8 to C22 fatty acids and polyglycerol with preferably 2 to 20 glyceryl units of alkylglycosides, in particular alkyl oligoclycosides with C6 to C22 alkyl groups.
In einer besonderen Ausführungsform werden in die Folien Gasblasen eines geeigneten Gases, vorzugsweise Luft eingeschlossen. Folien mit eingeschlossenen Gaslblasen zeichnen sich durch besonders gute Auflöseeigenscha. ften und eine besonders gute Verreibarkeit und Einarbei barkeit in das Haar aus . Das Einbringen von Gasblasen kaan nach einem an sich zur Herstellung von blasenhaltigem Kmststoff bekannten Verfahren, z.B. nach einem der folgenden Verfahren erfolgen: (1) Verwendung eines Bläh- oder Treibmittel (blowing agent) (2) Aufschäumen durch mechanisches Rühren der noch flüssigen oder zähflüssigen Trägermasse (3) durch eine ein Gas erzeugende chemiscrαe Reaktion (4) Verwendung eines leichtflüchtigen Lösungsmittels und Verdampfen bei erhöhten Temperaturen (5) Injektion eines verflüssigten Gases in die noch zähflüssige TrägermasseIn a particular embodiment, gas bubbles of a suitable gas, preferably air, are enclosed in the foils. Films with enclosed gas bubbles are characterized by particularly good dissolving properties. and a particularly good rubability and incorporability into the hair. The introduction of gas bubbles can be carried out by a method known per se for the production of bubble-containing plastics, e.g. according to one of the following processes: (1) use of a blowing agent (blowing agent) (2) foaming by mechanical stirring of the still liquid or viscous carrier mass (3) by a gas-generating chemical reaction (4) use of a volatile solvent and evaporation at elevated temperatures (5) injection of a liquefied gas into the still viscous carrier mass
Blähmittel sind chemische Substanzen, welche sich beim Erwärmen zersetzen und ein Gas freisetzen, z.B. Stickstoff, Kohlendioxid, Kohlenmonoxid, Ammoniak öderer Wasserstoff.Blowing agents are chemical substances that decompose on heating and release a gas, e.g. Nitrogen, carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, ammonia or other hydrogen.
Anorganische Blähmittel sind z.B. Carbonate, Hydrogencarbo- nate, Borhydride, Siliziumoxyhydride etc. Besonders bevorzugt sind organische Blähmittel, wie sie Joei der Herstellung poröser bzw. blasenhaltiger Kunststoffe eingesetzt werden. In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthält die Haarstylingfolie mindestens 50 Gew.% an haarfes igenden Polymeren, wobei Pullulan in Kombination mit mindestens einem weiteren, haarfestigenden Polymer enttalten ist und das Gewichtsverhältnis von Pullulan zu dem weiteren haarfestigenden Polymer kleiner 1:1 ist, d.h. di_e Einsatzmenge an Pullulan ist geringer als diejenige des weiteren haarfestigenden Polymers . Der Pullulangehalt beträgt dabei vorzugsweise 15 bis 45 Gew.% und der Gehalt an zusätzlichem haarfestigenden Polymer vorzugsweise von 30 bis 70 Gew.%Inorganic blowing agents are, for example, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, borohydrides, silicon oxyhydrides etc. Organic blowing agents such as those used by Joei in the production of porous or blister-containing plastics are particularly preferred. In a preferred embodiment, the hair styling film contains at least 50% by weight of hair-setting polymer, pullulan being present in combination with at least one further hair-setting polymer and the weight ratio of pullulan to the further hair-setting polymer being less than 1: 1, ie the amount used Pullulan is less than that of the other hair-fixing polymer. The pullulan content is preferably 15 to 45% by weight and the content of additional hair-fixing polymer is preferably 30 to 70% by weight.
Kombinationen von Pullulan mit synthetischer! Stylingpolymeren können zu Folien führen, die aufgrund einer gewissen Sprödigkeit und Brüchigkeit noch nicht vollständig zufrie- denstellend sind. Dies kann verbessert werdein durch einen Gehalt an Polyolen. In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthält die Haarstylingfolie deshalb zusätzlich mindestens ein Polyol . Ein Polyol ist eine organische Verbindung, welche zwei oder mehr alkoholische Hydroxy- gruppen aufweist. Geeignete Polyole sind z.B. mehrwertige Alkohole mit vorzugsweise bis zu 5 C-Atomen insbesondere Glykole und Glycerin, sowie Zuckeralkohole xind bei 25°C flüssige Polyethylenglykolen. Glykole sind z.B. Ethylenglykol, Propylenglykol oder Butylenglykol . Zuckeralkohole sind z.B. Sorbitol, Manitol, Malitol oder Lactitol . Flüssige Polyethylenglykole sind z.B. Diethylenglykol, Triethylen- glykol, Tetraethylenglykol etc., vorzugsweise solche mit einem Polymerisationsgrad bis etwa 12 und einem Molekulargewicht bis etwa 600. Bevorzugt ist eine Kombination von 50 bis 97 Gew.% haarfestigendem Polymer und 1 Ibis 50 Gew.%, insbesondere mehr als 5 Gew.%, z.B. 5 bis 20 oder 10 bis 15 Gew.% Polyol, bezogen auf die getrocknete, wasserfreie Folie, wobei Glycerin besonders bevorzugt ist. Der Polyol- gehalt verbessert insbesondere die Klarheit und die Elastizität der Folie, d.h. die Folien brechen nicht so leicht durch.Combinations of pullulan with synthetic! Styling polymers can lead to films that are not yet completely satisfactory due to their certain brittleness and fragility. This can be improved by containing polyols. In a further preferred embodiment, the hair styling film therefore additionally contains at least one polyol. A polyol is an organic compound that has two or more alcoholic hydroxyl groups. Suitable polyols are, for example, polyhydric alcohols with preferably up to 5 carbon atoms, in particular glycols and glycerol, and also sugar alcohols and polyethylene glycols which are liquid at 25 ° C. Glycols are, for example, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or butylene glycol. Sugar alcohols are, for example, sorbitol, manitol, malitol or lactitol. Liquid polyethylene glycols are, for example, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, etc., preferably those with a degree of polymerization of up to about 12 and a molecular weight of up to about 600. A combination of 50 to 97% by weight of hair-fixing polymer and 1 Ibis 50% by weight is preferred, in particular more than 5% by weight, for example 5 to 20 or 10 to 15 % By weight of polyol, based on the dried, anhydrous film, glycerol being particularly preferred. The polyol content in particular improves the clarity and the elasticity of the film, ie the films do not break through so easily.
Bei höheren Umgebungstemperaturen und/oder höheren Luftfeuchtigkeiten besteht die Gefahr, dass Haarstylinfolien in der Verpackung aneinander kleben und nicht mehr gut voneinander getrennt und der Verpackung entnommen werden können. Dies kann durch die Verwendung von geeigneten Trennmitteln verbessert werden. Eine weitere bevorzugte Ausführungsform betrifft deshalb Haarstylingfolien, welche mit einem pulverförmigen Trennmittel behandelt sind. Das vorzugsweise hydrophobe Trennmittel haftet äußerlich an der Folie und verhindert ein Verkleben der Folien insbesondere bei Lagerung oder Anwendung bei hoher Luftfeuchtigkeit. Geeignete Trennmittel sind z.B. Talkum, Stärke oder modifizierte Stärke. Die Modifikation der Stärke kann auf eine der allgemein bekannten Arten erfolgt einschließlich physikalischer, chemischer oder enzymatischer Modifikationen. Physikalische Modifikationen sind z.B. thermische Behandlungen oder Behandlungen mit Scherkräften. Chemische Modifikationen sind z.B. Vernetzung, Acetylierung, Veresterung, Hydroxy- ethylierung, Hydroxypropylierung, Phosphorylierung, Succi- nate und substituierte Succinate. Bevorzugt sind modifizierte Stärken mit den INCI-Bezeichnungen Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinate und Corn Starch modified. Das Trennmittel wird auf die fertigen, getrockneten Folien aufgebracht. Typische Einsatzmengen betragen etwa 0,01 bis 0,1 g, vor- zugsweise 0,02 bis 0,05 g pro Folie einer Größe von 4 x cm und einer Dicke von bis zu 0,5 mm.At higher ambient temperatures and / or higher air humidity there is a risk that hair styling foils stick to one another in the packaging and can no longer be separated well and removed from the packaging. This can be improved by using suitable release agents. A further preferred embodiment therefore relates to hair styling films which have been treated with a powdery release agent. The preferably hydrophobic release agent adheres externally to the film and prevents the films from sticking, particularly when stored or used in high air humidity. Suitable release agents are, for example, talc, starch or modified starch. The starch can be modified in one of the generally known ways, including physical, chemical or enzymatic modifications. Physical modifications are, for example, thermal treatments or treatments with shear forces. Chemical modifications include crosslinking, acetylation, esterification, hydroxyethylation, hydroxypropylation, phosphorylation, succinates and substituted succinates. Modified starches with the INCI names Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate and Corn Starch modified are preferred. The release agent is applied to the finished, dried films. Typical amounts used are about 0.01 to 0.1 g, preferably 0.02 to 0.05 g per film with a size of 4 x cm and a thickness of up to 0.5 mm.
Die mit dem Trennmittel behandelten Folien zeichnen sich durch eine verbesserte Nichtklebrigkeit aus und lassen sich auch nach mehreren Wochen noch gut aus der Verpackung entnehmen, ohne aneinander zu kleben. Gleichzeitig geben die Trennmittel nach einer bestimmungsgemäßen Haarstylingan- wendung unerwarteterweise keine sichtbaren Rückstände auf dem Haar.The films treated with the release agent are characterized by improved non-tack and can still be removed from the packaging well after several weeks without sticking to one another. At the same time, the release agents unexpectedly leave no visible residues on the hair after a proper hair styling application.
Anwendungapplication
Die Folien können sehr kompakt und platzsparend verpackt werden, beispielsweise als Rolle oder als aufeinander gestapelte Plättchen. Die Folien können mit nassen oder feuchten Händen verrieben werden. Anschließend kann die vollständig oder teilweise aufgelöste Folie auf das trockene oder feuchte Haar aufgebracht werden und es kann eine Frisurengestaltung wie unter Anwendung eines herkömmlichen Stylinggels erfolgen. Die Folien können auch direkt auf nasses oder feuchtes Haar aufgebracht und per Hand in das Haar eingearbeitet werden.The foils can be packed very compactly and in a space-saving manner, for example as a roll or as stacked plates. The foils can be rubbed with wet or damp hands. The completely or partially dissolved film can then be applied to the dry or damp hair and a hairstyle can be designed as if using a conventional styling gel. The films can also be applied directly to wet or damp hair and worked into the hair by hand.
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen den Gegenstand der Erfindung näher erläutern.The following examples are intended to explain the subject matter of the invention in more detail.
BeispieleExamples
Beispiel 1 Walzfähige Zubereitung 45 g Polyvinylpyrrolidon (Luviskol® K90) 5 g Rewoteric ® AM CAS (Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, 50%ig in Wasser) 0,25 g Parfüm ad 100 g EthanolExample 1 Rollable preparation 45 g of polyvinylpyrrolidone (Luviskol ® K90) 5 g Rewoteric ® AM CAS (cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, 50% in water) 0.25 g perfume ad 100 g ethanol
Beispiel 2 Stylingfolie 42,5 g Polyvinylpyrrolidon (Luviskol® K90) 42,0 g Pullulan 7,5 g Cetyltrimethylammoniumchlorid 7,5 g PEG-40 Hydriertes Rizinusöl 0,5 g ParfümExample 2 Styling Foil 42.5 g Polyvinylpyrrolidone (Luviskol ® K90) 42.0 g Pullulan 7.5 g Cetyltrimethylammonium Chloride 7.5 g PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.5 g Perfume
Beispiel 3 StylingfolienExample 3 Styling foils
Aus den Zusammensetzungen A, B und C werden mit Wasser als Lösungsmittel walzfähige Teige hergestellt. Durch Walzen der Teige werden Folien hergestellt und die Folien werden anschließend getrocknet. Die Folien wurden anhand der folgenden Kriterien beurteilt: (a) Löslichkeitsverhalten beim Verreiben mit den Händen mit wenig Wasser sehr gut: ++; gut: +; ausreichend: 0; schlecht: - (b) Aufschäumverhalten beim Einarbeiten in das Haar kein Aufschäumen: +; Aufschäumen: - (c) Klebrigkeitsverhalten gute Klebrigkeit: +; schlechte Klebrigkeit: - (d) Ausflockverhalten beim Einarbeiten in das Haar: kein Ausflocken, keine Bildung von sichtbaren Rückständen: + Ausflocken, sichtbare Rückstände: - (e) Festigungsverhalten: gute Haarfestigung: +,- schwache Haarfestigung: 0 ; keine Haarfestigung: - Rollable doughs are prepared from compositions A, B and C using water as the solvent. By rolling the dough, foils are made and the foils are then dried. The films were assessed on the basis of the following criteria: (a) very good solubility behavior when rubbed with hands with a little water: ++; good: +; sufficient: 0; bad: - (b) foaming behavior when worked into the hair no foaming: +; Foaming: - (c) stickiness behavior good stickiness: +; bad stickiness: - (d) flocculation behavior when worked into the hair: no flocculation, no formation of visible residues: + flocculation, visible residues: - (e) setting behavior: good hair fixation: +, - weak hair fixation: 0; no hair fixation: -
Beispiel 4 Glycerinhaltige StylingfolienExample 4 Styling Films Containing Glycerin
Beispiel 5 Zubereitungen zur Herstellung von Stylingfolien mit und ohne Glycerin Example 5 Preparations for the production of styling films with and without glycerin
Aus der Zubereitung A hergestellte Haarstylinfolien sind sehr elastisch und lassen sich gut verarbeiten, d.h. mit etwas Wasser in der Hand auflösen und in das Haar einarbeiten.Aus der Zubereitung B hergestellte Folien sind dagegen spröder und brüchiger und lasse nsich weniger gut verarbeiten. Hair styling films made from preparation A are very elastic and can be processed easily, ie they can be dissolved with a little water in the hand and worked into the hair. Films made from preparation B, on the other hand, are brittle and brittle and are less easy to process.
Beispiel 6 Mit Trennmittel behandelte StylingfolienExample 6 Styling Films Treated With Release Agent
Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinate; hydrophobische Stärke (2) Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinate; hydrophobische Stärke <3) Corn Starch Modified; hydrophobische Stärke; Ca-Salz des Esters gebildet durch die Reaktion von 3- (Dodecenyl) dihydro- 2 , 5-furandion und Maisstärke Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate; hydrophobic starch (2) Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate; hydrophobic starch <3) Corn Starch Modified; hydrophobic starch; Ca salt of the ester formed by the reaction of 3- (dodecenyl) dihydro-2, 5-furandione and corn starch
Es werden Folien einer Größe von 4 x 4 mm hergestellt und jeweils mit 0,03 g Nachbehandlungsmittel behandelt. Alle Folien sind nicht klebrig und lassen sich gut voneinander trennen. Die entsprechenden Folien ohne Nachbehandlung kleben dagegen nach einiger Zeit Lagerung aneinander und können nicht mehr ohne weiteres leicht voneinander getrennt werden. Films with a size of 4 x 4 mm are produced and each treated with 0.03 g of aftertreatment agent. All foils are not sticky and can be separated easily. The corresponding films without post-treatment, on the other hand, stick to one another after storage for some time and can no longer be easily separated from one another.

Claims

Patentansprücheclaims
1. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines haarfestigenden Produktes in Folienform, wobei - zuerst durch Lösen oder Dispergieren eines Polymers in einem flüssigen Trägermedium eine walzfähige Zubereitung hergestellt wird und - anschließend die Zubereitung mittels einer Walzvorrichtung durch Walzen in die Form einer Folie gebracht wird und - gleichzeitig oder anschließend das flüssige Trägermedium verdampft wird .1. A process for the production of a hair-fixing product in the form of a film, wherein - a rollable preparation is first produced by dissolving or dispersing a polymer in a liquid carrier medium and - then the preparation is brought into the form of a film by rolling using a rolling device and - simultaneously or then the liquid carrier medium is evaporated.
2 . Verfahren nach Anspruch 1 , dadurch gekennzeichnet , dass das Polymer ein folienbildendes und/oder haarfestigendes Polymer ist .2nd A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the polymer is a film-forming and / or hair-fixing polymer.
3. Verfahren nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das flüssige Trägermedium ausgewählt ist aus Wasser, Alkoholen, Ethern, Ketonen und Kohlenwasserstoffen oder aus Gemischen der genannten Stoffe, sofern die Stoffe oder Stoffgemischte bei Raumtemperatur (25 °C) flüssig sind.3. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid carrier medium is selected from water, alcohols, ethers, ketones and hydrocarbons or from mixtures of the substances mentioned, provided that the substances or mixtures of substances are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C).
4. Verfahren nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass in der walzfähigen Zubereitung der Gehalt des Polymers von 10 bis 80 Gew.% und der Gehalt des flüssigen Trägermediums von 20 bis 90 Gew.% beträgt . 4. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of the polymer in the rollable preparation is from 10 to 80% by weight and the content of the liquid carrier medium is from 20 to 90% by weight.
5. Verfahren nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass in der Folie nach Verdampfen des flüssigen Trägermediums der Anteil des Polymers von 50 bis 97 Gew.% beträgt. ' 6. Verfahren nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Zubereitung mindestens ein wasserlösliches Polymer enthält. 7. Verfahren nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Zubereitung Pullulan enthält .5. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in the film after evaporation of the liquid carrier medium, the proportion of the polymer is from 50 to 97% by weight. '6. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains at least one water soluble polymer. 7. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains pullulan.
8. Verfahren nach Anspruch 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Pullulan ein mittleres Molekulargewicht von 10.000 bis 5.000.000 aufweist.8. The method according to claim 7, characterized in that the pullulan has an average molecular weight of 10,000 to 5,000,000.
9. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 7 bis 8, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass zusätzlich mindestens ein haar- festigendes Polymer enthalten ist.9. The method according to any one of claims 7 to 8, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one hair-setting polymer.
10. Verfahren nach Anspruch 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Gewichtsverhältnis von Pullulan zu zusätzlichem haarfestigendem Polymer von 1:10 bis 10:1 beträgt.10. The method according to claim 9, characterized in that the weight ratio of pullulan to additional hair-fixing polymer is from 1:10 to 10: 1.
11. Verfahren nach Anspruch 10, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das zusätzliche haarfestigende Polymer ausgewählt ist - aus Polymeren, welche aufgebaut sind aus mindestens einem Monomer, ausgewählt aus Vinyllactamen, Vinyl- estern, Vinylalkoholen, Acrylamiden, Methacrylamiden, Alkylacrylamiden, Dialkylacrylamiden, Alkylmethacryl- amiden, Dialkylmethacrylamiden, Dialkylaminoalkylmeth- acrylamiden, Dialkylaminoalkylacrylamiden, Alkylacryla- ten, Alkylmethacrylaten, Propylenglykol oder Ethylenglykol ; - aus Polymeren, welche aufgebaut sind aus mindestens einem Monomer, ausgewählt aus Acrylsäure, Methacrylsäure, Crotonsäure, Maleinsäure, Maleinsäureanhydrid, Monoestern der Maleinsäure; aus Polymeren, welche aufgebaut sind aus mindestens einem Monomer, ausgewählt aus Trialkylmethacryloxy- alkylammonium, Trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, Dialkyldiallylammonium, Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium oder Alyklvinylpyrrolidon; aus Polymeren, welche aufgebaut sind aus mindestens einer Monomerart, welche Säuregruppen aufweist und mindestens einer weiteren Monomerart, welche basische Amingruppen auf eist; aus Polymeren, welche aufgebaut sind aus mindestens einer Monomerart, welche sowohl quaternäre Amingruppen als auch Säuregruppen aufweist oder aus Polymeren, welche aufgebaut sind aus mindestens einer ersten Monomerart, welche quaternäre Amingruppen aufweist und mindestens einer zweiten Monomerart, welche Säuregruppen aufweist . Verfahren nach Anspruch 11 , dadurch gekennzeichnet , dass das zusätzliche Polymer ausgewählt ist aus Polyvinylpyrrolidon, Polyvinylcaproactam, Polyacryla ide, Vinyl - pyrrolidon/Vinylacetat Copolymer , vernetzte oder unver- netzte Vinylacetat/Crotonsäure Copolymeren, Terpolymere aus Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylacetat und Vinylalkanoat , Ter- polymeren aus Vinylacetat, Crotonat und Vinylalkanoat, partialveresterten Copolymeren zwischen Vinylmethyl- ether und Maleinsäureanhydrid, Copolymeren aus Acryl- und/oder Methacrylsäure mit Alkylacrylaten, Alkylmeth- acrylaten, N-Alkylacrylamiden, N-Alkylmethacrylamiden und/oder Polystyrolsulfonaten, Copolymeren aus Alkyl- acrylamid, Alkylaminoalkylmethacrylat und zwei oder mehr Monomeren ausgewählt aus Acrylsäure, Methacrylsäure oder deren Cl- bis C4-Alkylestern, wobei mindes- tens eines der Monomere eine Säuregruppe aufweist; . Copolymere von Acrylsäure, Methylacrylat und Methacryl- amidopropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Copolymere aus Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid und Acrylaten, Copolymere aus Acrylamid, Acrylamidopropyltrimethyl- ammoniumchlorid, 2-Amidopropylacrylamidsulfonat und Dirnet ylaminopropylamin, Copolymere aus Methacryloyl- ethylbetain und zwei oder mehr Monomeren von Acrylsäure oder deren einfachen Estern, Methylvinylimidazolium- chlorid/Vinylpyrrolidon Copolymer, Polyvinylpyrrolidon/ Dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylat Copolymere, quaternisier- tes Vinylpyrrolidon/Dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylat Copolymer, Homopolymere von Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid, Copolymere von Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid und mindestens einem weiteren Monomer, quaternisierte Hydroxyethylcellulose oder quaternisierte Guarderivate, Terpolymere aus Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylcaprolactam und einem basischen Acrylamid- oder Methacrylamidmonomer und Vinylpyrrolidon/Methacrylamidoalkyltrimethyl- ammoniumchlorid Copolymere . 11. The method according to claim 10, characterized in that the additional hair-fixing polymer is selected - from polymers which are composed of at least one monomer selected from vinyl lactams, vinyl esters, vinyl alcohols, acrylamides, methacrylamides, alkyl acrylamides, dialkylacrylamides, alkyl methacrylate amides, dialkylmethacrylamides, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamides, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamides, alkyl acrylates, alkyl methacrylates, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol; - from polymers which are composed of at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, monoesters of maleic acid; from polymers which are composed of at least one monomer selected from trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium, alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium or alylvinylpyrrolidone; from polymers which are composed of at least one type of monomer which has acid groups and at least one further type of monomer which has basic amine groups; from polymers which are composed of at least one type of monomer which has both quaternary amine groups and acid groups or of polymers which are composed of at least one first type of monomer which has quaternary amine groups and at least one second type of monomer which has acid groups. A method according to claim 11, characterized in that the additional polymer is selected from polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl caproactam, polyacrylic ide, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer, crosslinked or uncrosslinked vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, terpolymers from vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl alkanoate, ter- polymers of vinyl acetate, crotonate and vinyl alkanoate, partially esterified copolymers between vinyl methyl ether and maleic anhydride, copolymers of acrylic and / or methacrylic acid with alkyl acrylates, alkyl methacrylates, N-alkyl acrylamides, N-alkyl methacrylamides and / or polystyrene sulfonates, copolymers of alkyl acrylamide, Alkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and two or more monomers selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C1 to C4 alkyl esters, at least one of the monomers having an acid group; , Copolymers of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and methacrylic amidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, copolymers of acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and acrylates, copolymers of acrylamide, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, 2-amidopropylacrylamidesulfonate and dirnetl ylaminopropylamine, copolymers or ethyleneamidyl acrylate and copolymers of methacryloyl methyl acrylate and two or more of them chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymers, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymer, homopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and at least one other monomer, quaternarized acrylamate or hydroxymethylated acrylate, methacrylate-derived aminopolymer, from methylethyl or acrylate, Vinyl pyrrolidone / methacrylamidoalkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride copolymers.
13. Verfahren nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Folie zusätzlich mindestens einen Stoff enthält, ausgewählt aus Emulga- toren, Weichmachern, Haarglanzwirkstoffen, Konservie- rungsstoffen, Duftstoffen, Pigmenten, Produk anfärbe- stoffen und wasserunlöslichen, partikelförmigen Feststoffen.13. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the film additionally contains at least one substance selected from emulsifiers, plasticizers, hair gloss agents, preservatives, fragrances, pigments, product stains and water-insoluble, particulate solids.
14. Verfahren nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, da- durch gekennzeichnet, dass die Folie nach dem Auswalzen eine Dicke von kleiner 0 , 5 mm aufweist .14. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the film has a thickness of less than 0.5 mm after being rolled out.
15. Verfahren nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass in die Folie Gasblasen eingebracht werden.15. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that gas bubbles are introduced into the film.
16. Haarstylingfolie, hergestellt nach einem Verfahren gemäß einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 15.16. Hair styling film, produced by a method according to any one of claims 1 to 15.
17. Haarstylingfolie enthaltend mindestens 85 Gew.% mindestens eines haarfestigenden Polymers und mehr als 3 Gew.% mindestens eines Tensids.17. Hair styling film containing at least 85% by weight of at least one hair-fixing polymer and more than 3% by weight of at least one surfactant.
18. Haarstylingfolie nach Anspruch 17, dadurch gekennzeich- net, dass das haarfestigende Polymer ausgewählt ist aus Polymeren auf Polysaccharidbasis und nichtionischen, synthetischen Polymeren.18. Hair styling film according to claim 17, characterized in that the hair-fixing polymer is selected from polymers based on polysaccharide and nonionic, synthetic polymers.
19. Haarstylingfolie nach Anspruch 18, dadurch gekennzeich- net, dass als haarfestigende Polymere eine Kombination aus (a) Pullulan und (b) mindestens einem Polymer, ausgewählt aus Polyvinylpyrrolidon und Polyvinylpyrro- lidon/Vinylacetat Copolymer enthalten ist, wobei das Gewichtsverhältnis von (a) zu (b) kleiner 1:1 ist.19. Hair styling film according to claim 18, characterized in that the hair-fixing polymers are a combination of (a) pullulan and (b) at least one polymer, selected from polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer is contained, the weight ratio of (a) to (b) being less than 1: 1.
20. Haarstylingfolie nach einem der Ansprüche 17 bis 19, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass als Tenside ein Gemisch aus mindestens einem kationischen und mindestens einem nichtionischen Tensid enthalten ist, wobei das Gewichtsverhältnis kationischer zu nichtionischer Tenside von 1:10 bis 10:1 beträgt.20. Hair styling film according to one of claims 17 to 19, characterized in that the surfactants are a mixture of at least one cationic and at least one nonionic surfactant, the weight ratio of cationic to nonionic surfactants being 1:10 to 10: 1.
21. Haarstylingfolie enthaltend mindestens 50 Gew.% an haarfestigenden Polymeren, wobei Pullulan in Kombination mit mindestens einem weiteren, haarfestigenden Polymer enthalten ist und das Gewichtsverhältnis von Pullulan zu dem weiteren haarfestigenden Polymer kleiner 1 : 1 ist .21. Hair styling film containing at least 50% by weight of hair-fixing polymers, pullulan being present in combination with at least one further hair-fixing polymer and the weight ratio of pullulan to the further hair-fixing polymer being less than 1: 1.
22. Haarstylingfolie nach Anspruch 21, dadurch gekennzeich- net, dass der Gehalt an Pullulan 15 bis 45 Gew.% und der Gehalt an zusätzlichem haarfestigenden Polymer 30 bis 70 Gew.% beträgt unter der Maßgabe, dass das Gewichtsverhältnis Pullulan: zusätzlichem haarfestigendem Polymer kleiner 1 : 1 ist .22. Hair styling film according to claim 21, characterized in that the content of pullulan is 15 to 45% by weight and the content of additional hair-setting polymer is 30 to 70% by weight, provided that the weight ratio of pullulan: additional hair-setting polymer is smaller Is 1: 1.
23. Haarstylingfolie nach einem der Ansprüche 17 bis 22, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Foliendicke kleiner 0 , 5 mm beträgt . 23. Hair styling film according to one of claims 17 to 22, characterized in that the film thickness is less than 0.5 mm.
24. Haarstylingfolie nach einem der Ansprüche 17 bis 23, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie eingeschlossene Gasblasen enthält .24. Hair styling film according to one of claims 17 to 23, characterized in that it contains enclosed gas bubbles.
25. Haarstylingfolie nach einem der Ansprüche 17 bis 24, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie zusätzlich mindestens ein Polyol enthält.25. Hair styling film according to one of claims 17 to 24, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one polyol.
26. Haarstylingfolie nach Anspruch 25, dadurch gekennzeich- net dass die Polyole in einer Menge von 1 bis 50 Gew.% enthalten sind und ausgewählt sind aus Glykolen, Glyce- rinen, Zuckeralkoholen und bei 25°C flüssigen Poly- ethylenglykolen.26. Hair styling film according to claim 25, characterized in that the polyols are contained in an amount of 1 to 50% by weight and are selected from glycols, glycerins, sugar alcohols and polyethylene glycols which are liquid at 25 ° C.
27. Haarstylingfolie enthaltend mindestens 50 Gew.% an haarfestigenden Polymeren, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Folie mit einem pulverförmigen, an der Folie anhaftendem Trennmittel behandelt ist. 27. Hair styling film containing at least 50% by weight of hair-fixing polymers, characterized in that the film is treated with a powdery release agent adhering to the film.
EP05700790A 2004-01-21 2005-01-11 Hair styling films and method for producing hair fixing products in film form Withdrawn EP1735058A2 (en)

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DE102004002951A DE102004002951A1 (en) 2004-01-21 2004-01-21 Process for producing hair-setting products in film form
PCT/EP2005/000151 WO2005070376A2 (en) 2004-01-21 2005-01-11 Hair styling films and method for producing hair fixing products in film form

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DE102004002951A1 (en) 2005-08-11
WO2005070376A2 (en) 2005-08-04

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