EP1711253A1

EP1711253A1 - Method and device for the direct mixing of chemicals in particular for the production of hair dyes and/or intensive toners

Info

Publication number: EP1711253A1
Application number: EP05714883A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Vera Lauper
Original assignee: SEMPRE HAIR COLOR MIX GmbH; Sempre Hair-Color-Mix GmbH
Current assignee: Cf Technology & Network AG
Priority date: 2004-01-28
Filing date: 2005-01-20
Publication date: 2006-10-18
Also published as: DE102004004258A1; WO2005072856A1; US20050165705A1; US20080235881A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for the production of hair dyes and/or intensive toners, whereby the intermediates (developer and coupler) and the direct dye are dissolved in liquid or creamy support masses, which may be combined in a computer-controlled device in situ, based on formulations stored in the computer to give a colour tone mixture, for example, in the hairdressers, or in a shop. According to the multi-step method, the applied intermediates (developer and coupler) and the direct dye are dissolved in a support mass in an initial step, whereby only sufficient alkali agent is added to dissolve and stabilise the intermediates (developer and coupler), the direct dye and the support mass. In a subsequent further method step, after mixing of the individual base components, generated in the initial stage, optionally ammonia or corresponding substitute materials are added before the addition of the peroxide.

Description

Method and device for the direct mixing of chemicals, in particular for the production of hair colors and / or intensive tints

Technical field

The invention relates to a process for the production of hair colors and / or intensive tints, the intermediates (developers and couplers) and the direct formers being dissolved in liquid or creamy carrier masses, which are prepared via a computer-controlled device based on recipes stored in the computer to form a color mixture Location, e.g. B. in the hair salon or in a shop.

State of the art

From the published patent application 101 14 060 A1, a method and a device are known, by means of which classic oxidation hair colors and also intensive tints can be produced with basic components and corresponding formulations when the storage device is appropriately equipped. The intermediates (developers and couplers) required for the color design and the direct pullers are individually dissolved here together with other chemicals in a carrier mass and are filled into flexible bags as so-called basic components. The bags are placed in magazines that are attached to a turntable, for example, and connected to pumps (e.g. piston pumps) via connectors. Using a computer in which the formulations or the combination of the desired shades are stored by mixing the individual basic components, the shade is put together by calling up the formulation for the desired hair color. This type of ready-to-use production of hair colors or intensive tints has the advantage that many shades can be produced on site, for example in a hairdressing salon or a shop, with a few basic components. As described in the published patent application 101 14 060 A 1, the basic components filled in the bags result after the Mixing process the ready-to-use hair color. Just add the peroxide before use. It is therefore only possible to produce the classic ammonia-containing hair colors by means of the method known from the published patent application and the device used, only the peroxide having to be added before use. Of course, such a device can also be used for the production of physical tints, provided that other correspondingly designed basic components are inserted.

As is known, oxidation hair colors are usually composed of intermediates (developers and couplers) and direct pullers, which are stably dissolved in an ammonia-containing carrier mass. The carrier composition used can be in liquid or creamy form, as described, for example, in "Handbook of Cosmetics and Fragrances", published by A. Hütig Verlag, Heildelberg, 2nd edition, volume 3 or in "Basics for clear, liquid hair colors" by Hugo Janistin. Further examples can also be found in Maison G. de Navarre in "The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics", Volume IV, published by Allured Publishing Corporation, Illinois, USA, 3rd edition or in "Basics and Recipes for Cosmetics" by Karlheinz Schrader, published by A. Hütig Verlag, Heidelberg, 2nd edition.

Both the appropriate intermediates (developer and coupler) and direct extractor as well as one or more alkalizing agents are added to these carrier compositions or to the carrier composition chosen in each case. The finished product, the oxidation hair color, is then filled into containers such as tubes or bottles. Immediately before use, the oxidation hair color is mixed with 1 to 3 parts of a peroxide solution and applied to the hair to be colored.

Classic oxidation hair colors contain ammonia in order to achieve a certain lightening effect on natural hair during the dyeing process. In contrast, intensive tints contain little or no ammonia, in return but other alkalizing agents such as sodium hydroxide, ethanolamine etc. If the hairdresser wants to offer both types of oxidation paints, he must therefore have a double range. The object of the present invention is to give the hairdresser or the customer in the shop the option of producing classic hair colors or intensive tinting on site with the same basic components.

The solution to the problem on which the invention is based is specified in claim 1, which describes a method according to the invention. The subject of claim 6 is an apparatus for performing the method.

With this method, only as much alkalizing agent (e.g. sodium hydroxide) is added to the basic components in a preliminary stage as is necessary for the solution or the stabilization of the intermediates (developer and coupler), the direct extractor and the carrier mass. In a further stage, depending on the desired type of coloring (classic hair colors or intensive tints), further alkalizing agents, such as ammonia and / or ethanolamine and / or sodium hydroxide, incorporated into the carrier composition, must be added in a further stage. For coloring or tinting, the desired or required alkalizing agent is added immediately before use of the coloring material, and the whole is mixed and applied as usual in a further step with peroxide.

The advantage of this procedure is that the hairdresser or a skilled operator in a shop with the same basic components can choose both the classic ammonia-containing oxidation hair color and the ammonia-free intensive tint, e.g. immediately before use, by choosing the desired alkalizing agent in the subsequent step. The usual alkalizing agents can be used as alkalizing agents in the second stage.

In the manufacture of the basic components, it has proven to be advantageous to combine the separate water and fat phases at 70 to 80 ° C and to add the care and perfume substances at approx. 50 ° C. The finished basic components are ideally filled into flexible bags at 45 to 40 ° C.

In order to be able to produce the classic hair color or the intensive tint on site, i.e. in the salon or in a shop, there is a device in which the bags with the basic components can be hung or adjusted and which have control means for filling the masses in a container has proven to be advantageous. The control of the device is designed in such a way that the basic components are first brought together and then alkalizing agents are added in a further step, the hairdresser being able to decide between the different alkalizing agents depending on the type of coloring. Only after the first two stages have been completed is the peroxide added or, if the hair color or intensive tint is not used in the salon, in a container e.g. added to a bottle. The choice of alkalizing agents gives the hairdresser or the customer the advantage of being able to produce classic, ammonia-containing hair colors as well as intensive tints in the salon or in the shop with the same device and by using the same basic components.

To meet all requirements such. B. to meet the nuance of the hue, the brightness of the hue, etc., the basic components, the alkalizing agents and the peroxides are provided in various concentrations in the device. Brief description of the invention and ways of carrying out the invention; commercial usability.

An embodiment of the invention is described in more detail below: The device for producing hair colors and intensive tints, as described in more detail in the published patent application 101 14 060 A1, consists of a motor-driven turntable on which, for. B. magazines or containers for storing flexible bags are attached. Each of these bags is e.g. B. connected via a connector and a control valve to a pump (z. B. piston pump). The pump outlet flows into a bowl. The turntable and the pumps as well as the control valves are controlled by a computer program (by means of software) in such a way that a quantity specified in the recipe or a multiple of a predetermined basic quantity is conveyed into the bowl by means of the pumps. After the amounts determined by the recipe have been dosed into a bowl, the composition of which corresponds to the desired color of the hair color or intensive tint, the amount in the bowl is mixed.

For example, on the motorized turntable

Device for the production of classic hair colors and intensive tints according to the method described 11 magazines equipped with 11 bags. Of the 11 bags, 7 bags (bags 1 to 7) are filled with basic components, 2 bags (bags 8 and 9) with alkalizing agent, 1 bag (bag 10) with carrier and 1 bag (bag 11) with peroxide. With such a configuration, over 500 shades of color can be produced using the device and the formulations entered, both as a classic ammonia-containing hair color and as an intensive tint, provided that the process according to the invention is used; ie the basic components filled into the bags receive only as much alkalizing agent in a preliminary stage, for. B. sodium hydroxide as is necessary for the solution and stabilization of intermediates (developers and couplers), the direct puller and the carrier mass. Only after the basic components have been mixed, that is to say after the basic components have been dispensed into a dish or a container, is there anything else Alkalizing agent added depending on the type of color. This two-stage process can be used both ammonia (in the case of the classic hair color) and so-called substitutes, such as. B ethanolamine, AMP etc. (in the case of intensive tinting) can be added. The individual intermediates (developers and couplers), the direct pullers and the associated substances are dissolved in the preliminary phase to produce the individual basic components at 70 to 80 ° C in the water phase, after which the alkalizing agent is added and emulsified together with the fat phase. Ultimately, the care and perfume substances are added during the cooling process at approx. 50 ° C.

When choosing a color, e.g. B. by means of patterns from a color card, after entering the color z. B. as a code of the computer, based on the recipe stored in the computer and / or other selected parameters, calculate the individual requirement of the desired amount of color and dose accordingly into the tray.

This type of production enables the hairdresser or the customer to quickly create both classic ammonia-containing hair colors and intensive tints based on the recipes stored in the memory.

The basic components filled into the pouch are composed of a liquid, gel or cream-like carrier mass with care substances, each with a coupler, a developer, a direct agent (direct dyes) as well as the amount of an alkalizing agent required for solution and stabilization.

The developers used are: p-toylenediamine 0.1 to 20%, p-phenylenediamine 0.1 to 5%, p-aminophenol, 0.1 to 2%, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine sulfate 0.1 to 5% , 4-amino-3-methylphenol 0.1 to 5%, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenlenediamine sulfate 0.1 to 5%, The following are used as couplers: resorcinol 0.1 to 5%, 4-chlororesorcinol 0.1 to 5%, 2-methylresorcinol 0.1 to 5%, 1-naphthol 0.1 to 1%, m-aminophenol 0.1 to 5%, p-amino-o-cresol 0.1 to 5%, 5-amino-6-chloro-o-cresol 0.1 to 5%, 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethyl-aminophenol 0.1 to 5% , 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol (HCl or H2S04) 0.1 to 5%, 1, 5-dihydroxy-naphthalene 0.1 to 3%, 1, 6-dihydroxynaphthalene O, 1 to 3%, 2,6-diaminopyridine 0 , 1 to 3%, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylamino anisole sulfate 0.1 to 5%, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine 0.1 to 5%,

The following are used as direct pullers: 4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine 0.1 to 5%, 2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine 0.1 to 5%, 6-chloro-4-nitro-2-aminophenol 0.1 to 10% , Sodium picramate 0.1 to 2%, picramic acid 0.1 to 2%, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol 0.1 to 4%, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol 0.1 to 5%, 3-nitro -p-Hydroyethylaminophenol 0.1 to 5%, HC Red 3 and 13 each 0.1 to 5%, HC Yellow 2, 4 and 5 each 0.1 to 5%, HC Blue 2 0.1 to 5%, Basic Red 2, 22, 46, 51 and 76 each 0.1 to 4%, Basic Blue 3, 7, 9, 26, 47 and 99 each 0.1 to 3%, Basic Yellow 11, 28 and 57 each 0.1 up to 3%, Basic Brown 4, 16 and 17 each 0.1 to 3%, Basic Violet 4 and 14 each 0.1 to 3%, Dispers Violet 1 0.1 to 3%,

The following are used as active care substances: panthenol 0.1 to 5%, allantoin 0.1 to 0.5%, synthetic oils 1 to 5%, silicones 1 to 5%, vegetable oils such as jojoba oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, Meadowfoam Seed Oil each 1 to 10%, vitamins E - acetate 1 to 15%, UVA and UVB filters 1 to 5%, Silk proteins 1 to 4%, keratin hydrolyzate 1 to 4%, collagen hydrolyzate 1 to 4%, wheat protein 1 to 4%, elastin hydrolyzate 1 to 4%,

The following are used as alkalizing agents: ammonium hydroxide 1 to 25%, ethanolamine 1 to 100%, amino methyl propanol 1 to 100%, sodium hydroxide 1 to 10%, potassium hydroxide 1 to 10%,

The following is used as peroxide: hydrogen peroxide 1 to 35%.

The preparation of mixtures is explained in more detail using a few examples. The 11 bags based on a device which is equipped with 11 bags according to the content described above have the filling contents described above; these are seven basic components, two alkalizing agents and one bag with peroxide and a pure carrier mass (see Table 1). It is of course just as possible to use a different number of bags with other basic components or a different composition. The computer program and the recipes would then have to be changed accordingly. The example with eleven bags is only intended to explain in more detail the use of the basic components for different colors and for use as a classic ammonia-containing hair color or as an intensive tint without ammonia.

For example, the following cream carrier 018 (without developer, coupler, direct pull) serves as a cream-like carrier mass with care substance, in which the intermediates (developer and coupler) and direct extractor can be dissolved individually and in certain, and under certain circumstances, different concentrations: Oleic Acid 2.00%

Oleth-20 3.60%

Cetearyl Alcohol 15.00%

Sodium hydroxides 10% 1, 50%

EDTA 0.10%

Sodium lauryl sulfate 0.50%

Sodium sulfite 0.40%

Ascorbic Acid 0.10%

Perfume 0.30%

Hydrolyzed keratin 0.50%

Aqua qs

With basic components based on this carrier mass, any color nuances can be put together, which, depending on the type of coloring, are available with ammonia and / or other alkalizing agents. The examples listed in Table 1 below show that, depending on the recipe and the alkalizing agent used (bags 9 and 10), classic hair colors with ammonia or intensive tints can be produced using the production process described.

Table 1

The examples in Table 1 show that not only 3 different shades can be produced with 11 bags by changing the composition or quantities, but that these shades are available both as a classic, ammonia-containing hair color and as an ammonia-free intensive shade, provided that the mixture the bag contents 1 to 8 are carried out in a preliminary stage and only then the contents of the bags 9 or 10 are mixed in as an alkalizing agent. Of course, as previously stated, other shades can be produced by other compositions, and further recipes then have to be used. It is advantageous if the ratio of peroxide and basic components is 50:50. But there is also the possibility to change this ratio. The suppliers represented on the market, however, divide the colors into two separate areas. On the one hand the area of the classic, ammonia-containing hair colors, which simultaneously lighten the hair during the dyeing process and, on the other hand, the intensive tints, which allow tone-on-tone dyeing to be carried out without lightening. These two color systems are inevitably made and sold individually. As a rule, the classic hair color range comprises approximately two to three times the number of shades compared to intensive tinting, also because the space available at the hairdresser or in the shop is limited.

According to the invention, the hairdresser or business owner can now be offered an almost unlimited range of classic, ammonia-containing hair colors as well as intensive tinting with just one or two more bags (see Table 1). The process described is particularly advantageous for on-site manufacture, i.e. in Salon or shop. Not only is there a significant reduction in storage space, but the variety of shades for both types of hair color is almost the same.

Claims

claims

1. Process for the production of hair colors and / or intensive tints, the intermediates (developers and couplers) and the direct drawers being dissolved in liquid or creamy carrier masses, which are mixed on-site via a computer-controlled device on the basis of formulations stored in the computer, z. B. in the hair salon or shop, mixed together.

Characterized in that

- The intermediates used (developers and couplers) and the direct extractors are individually dissolved in a carrier mass in a preliminary stage, with only as much alkalizing agent being added as for the solution and stabilization of the intermediates (developers and couplers), the direct extractants and the carrier mass ( basic components) is necessary.

- In a further step after the individual basic components have been mixed together to form a color in a container, optionally ammonia or corresponding substitutes can be added.

2. Method according to A 1,

- That the peroxide is added to the ready-to-use mixture in a further process step.

3. The method according to A 1 and / or A 2, characterized in that

- 1 to 25% ammonium hydroxide or 1 to 100% ethanolamine or 1 to 100% amino methyl propanol or 1 to 10% sodium hydroxide or 1 to 10% potassium hydroxide is used as the alkalizing agent.

4. The method according to A 1, characterized in that

- In the preliminary stage for the production of a basic component in a water phase, the intermediate (developer and coupler) and the direct extractors with the associated substances are dissolved at 70 to 80 ° C. After that the alkalizing agent is added and emulsified together with the fat phase. The care and perfume substances are mixed in during the cooling process at approx. 50 ° C.

5. The method according to A 4, characterized in that

- The basic components at 45 to 40 ° C in suitable containers, e.g. B. flexible bags are filled, which are suitable for metering the basic components in a device provided for this purpose.

6. Device for performing the method according to claim 1 for the production of color mixtures, characterized in that

- The bags filled with basic components are computer-controlled (computer-controlled) dosed into a container or drip tray, the basic components first on site, e.g. brought together in the hairdressing salon or in the store, in a further stage the desired alkalizing agent or agents are added as required, and when used in the salon the appropriate amount of peroxide is then added at this point, and the amount of peroxide is filled separately into a container for use at home and given to the user.

7. The device according to A 6, characterized in that

- The basic components are present in different concentrations, which are stored in the memory of the metering device.

8. The device according to A 6, characterized in that

- The peroxides are present in different concentrations, which are stored in the memory of the metering device.