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EP1438103A1 - Betaine-containing cosmetics - Google Patents

Betaine-containing cosmetics

Info

Publication number
EP1438103A1
EP1438103A1 EP02777256A EP02777256A EP1438103A1 EP 1438103 A1 EP1438103 A1 EP 1438103A1 EP 02777256 A EP02777256 A EP 02777256A EP 02777256 A EP02777256 A EP 02777256A EP 1438103 A1 EP1438103 A1 EP 1438103A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cosmetic
acid
dermatological preparations
derivatives
skin
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP02777256A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Rainer Kröpke
Boris Syskowsyi
Urte Koop
Andreas Bleckmann
Jens Nielsen
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1438103A1 publication Critical patent/EP1438103A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/16—Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing polyols and betaines and their use.
  • the skin is the largest human organ. Among its many functions (for example for heat regulation and as a sensory organ), the most important is the barrier function that prevents the skin (and ultimately the entire organism) from drying out. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside. This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At around a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.
  • the task of cosmetic skin care is to strengthen or strengthen the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) restore.
  • environmental influences e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms
  • water, natural fats, electrolytes e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes
  • the aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat on the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient.
  • Classic skin moisturizers include polyols such as glycerin and sorbitol. However, other compounds such as ethoxylated polyols and hydrolyzed proteins are also used. In addition, components of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) are used, for example urea and certain amino acids. The most common is glycerin.
  • NMF skin's natural moisturizing factor
  • a major disadvantage of the prior art is the negative sensory properties of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing polyol. These usually feel sticky and greasy on the skin and make the corresponding products unattractive for the consumer. It was therefore the object of the present invention to eliminate or reduce the disadvantages of the prior art and to develop polyol-containing cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations whose sticky and greasy skin feel is reduced.
  • the object is achieved by cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing a) polyols in a concentration of 5 to 50% by weight, b) betaines in a concentration of 0.01 to 75% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation , along with any other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives.
  • a concentration of polyols of 5 to 20% by weight and in particular 5 to 15% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the formulation, is particularly advantageous.
  • a particularly advantageous concentration of betaines is from 0.5 to 50% by weight and in particular from 3 to 15% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • the betaine which is particularly preferred according to the invention is trimethylglycine; glycerol is used as the preferred polyol according to the invention.
  • Part of the invention is the use of betaines to reduce the stickiness of polyol-containing cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations.
  • the invention furthermore relates to the use of betaines to reduce the greasy skin feel of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing polyol.
  • betaines to improve the sensory properties of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations is in accordance with the invention.
  • betaines in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention to reduce the adherence of foreign particles, in particular sand, to skin treated with cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can be used according to the invention as a skin cream, face cream and / or body lotion and as a sunscreen.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the invention can therefore contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, vitamins, dyes, anti-foaming agents, thickeners, plasticizers, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes or organic solvents.
  • cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, vitamins, dyes, anti-foaming agents, thickeners, plasticizers, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes or organic solvents.
  • UV filters it is advantageous according to the invention to add UV filters to the preparations according to the invention.
  • Oil-soluble UVA filters and / or UVB filters in the lipid phase and / or water-soluble UVA filters and / or UVB filters in the aqueous phase can be used.
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
  • Methylidene camphor derivatives preferably 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzylidene camphor,
  • Symmetrically substituted triazines preferably 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), synonymously: 2,4,6- Tris- [anilino- (p-carbo-2 , -ethyl-1 '- hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine [UVINUL T 150 (BASF)],
  • Unsymmetrically substituted triazines preferably 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI : Aniso triazine) and 2,4-bis- (p-aminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester) -6- (p-aminobenzoic acid-N-1,1-dimethylethylamide) -
  • UVB filters mentioned, which can additionally be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.
  • Dibenzoylmethane derivatives preferably 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane
  • UVA and / or UVB filters for example certain silicic acid derivatives such as 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate and homomenthyl salicylate.
  • Further light protection filter substances which can advantageously be used according to the invention are ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name UVINUL® N 539, and 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- ( 2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol).
  • UV light protection filters which are advantageous according to the invention are preferably used in a concentration of 0.1 to 20% by weight, in particular in a concentration of 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection formulations can be composed as usual and serve the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, furthermore for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations can according to the invention
  • Contain pigments for example TiO 2 , ZnO, BaSO 4 ) which have a coloring effect and / or can advantageously be used according to the invention as inorganic light protection filters.
  • auxiliaries according to the invention are fats, oils, waxes or other customary constituents of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols,
  • antioxidants are generally preferred. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • glycine eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles eg urocanic acid
  • peptides such as DL-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine)
  • carotenoids e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene
  • Carotenes e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene
  • chlorogenic acid and its derivatives e.g. dihydroliponic acid
  • aurothioglucose propylthiouracil and other thiols
  • thioredoxin glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl) , Propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, Nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthioninsulfoximines homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine
  • very low tolerable dosages e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg
  • metal chelators e.g. ⁇ - Hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, laotoferrin
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g.
  • ⁇ -linolenic acid linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives
  • vitamin C and derivatives e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate
  • tocopherols and derivatives e.g.
  • vitamin E-acetate vitamin E-acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • the amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 7% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight on the total weight of the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants
  • selected recipes according to the invention are suitable, which e.g. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. occur during skin aging (eg wrinkles and fine lines). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies preferably
  • Esters of fatty acids with low C alcohols e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
  • Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and
  • An oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions for the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of the esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl hexyl urate, 2-ethylhexyl hexyl urate Octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example jojoba oil.
  • the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
  • any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
  • the oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 12 .
  • paraffin oil paraffin oil
  • squalane squalane and isoparaffin can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) or dimethicone is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention.
  • silicone oils are also to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.
  • aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention advantageously advantageously contains - alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol,
  • Hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopols, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.
  • carbopols for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can advantageously be used according to the invention in O / W emulsions in and in emulsifier-free O / W emulsions (hydrodispersions).

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations containing a) polyols in a concentration of 5 to 50 wt. %, b) betaines in a concentration of 0.01 to 75 wt. %, respectively in relation to the total weight of the preparation, as well as optionally other active agents, auxiliaries and additives.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg
Betainhaltiqe KosmetikaBetainhaltiqe cosmetics
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Zubereitungen die Polyole und Betaine enthalten sowie deren Verwendung.The present invention relates to cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing polyols and betaines and their use.
Die Haut ist das größte Organ des Menschen. Unter ihren vielen Funktionen (beispielsweise zur Wärmeregulation und als Sinnesorgan) ist die Barrierefunktion, die das Austrocknen der Haut (und damit letztlich des gesamten Organismus) verhindert, die wohl wichtigste. Gleichzeitig wirkt die Haut als Schutzeinrichtung gegen das Eindringen und die Aufnahme von außen kommender Stoffe. Bewirkt wird diese Barrierefunktion durch die Epidermis, welche als äußerste Schicht die eigentliche Schutzhülle gegenüber der Umwelt bildet. Mit etwa einem Zehntel der Gesamtdicke ist sie gleichzeitig die dünnste Schicht der Haut.The skin is the largest human organ. Among its many functions (for example for heat regulation and as a sensory organ), the most important is the barrier function that prevents the skin (and ultimately the entire organism) from drying out. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside. This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At around a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.
Die Aufgabe der kosmetischen Hautpflege ist es, die natürliche Funktion der Haut als Barriere gegen Umwelteinflüsse (z. B. Schmutz, Chemikalien, Mikroorganismen) und gegen den Verlust von körpereigenen Stoffen (z. B. Wasser, natürliche Fette, Elektrolyte) zu stärken oder wiederherzustellen.The task of cosmetic skin care is to strengthen or strengthen the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) restore.
Ziel der Hautpflege ist es ferner, den durch tägliche Waschen verursachten Fettverlust der Haut auszugleichen. Dies ist gerade dann wichtig, wenn das natürliche Regenerationsvermögen nicht ausreicht.The aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat on the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient.
Einer der Wichtigsten Aufgaben der Hautpflege besteht jedoch in der Hautbefeuchtung. Zu den klassischen Hautbefeuchtungsmitteln zählen unter anderem Polyole wie Glycerin und Sorbit. Daneben kommen jedoch auch andere Verbindungen zum Einsatz wie ethoxylierte Polyole und hydrolysierte Proteine. Außerdem finden Komponenten des natürlichen Feuchthaltefaktors der Haut (engl. Natural Moisturizing Factor, NMF) z.B. Harnstoff und bestimmte Aminosäuren Anwendung. Am weitesten verbreitet ist jedoch das Glycerin. Ein großer Nachteil am Stand der Technik besteht in den negativen sensorischen Eigenschaften polyolhaltiger kosmetischer und/oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen. Diese fühlen sich in der Regel auf der Haut klebrig und schmierig an und machen die entsprechenden Produkte für den Verbraucher unattraktiv. Es war daher die Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung die Nachteile des Standes der Technik zu beseitigen beziehungsweise zu vermindern und polyolhaltige kosmetische und/oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen zu entwickeln, deren klebriges und schmieriges Hautgefühl reduziert ist.However, one of the most important tasks of skin care is to moisturize the skin. Classic skin moisturizers include polyols such as glycerin and sorbitol. However, other compounds such as ethoxylated polyols and hydrolyzed proteins are also used. In addition, components of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) are used, for example urea and certain amino acids. The most common is glycerin. A major disadvantage of the prior art is the negative sensory properties of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing polyol. These usually feel sticky and greasy on the skin and make the corresponding products unattractive for the consumer. It was therefore the object of the present invention to eliminate or reduce the disadvantages of the prior art and to develop polyol-containing cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations whose sticky and greasy skin feel is reduced.
Überraschend wird die Aufgabe gelöst durch Kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Zubereitungen enthaltend a) Polyole in einer Konzentration von 5 bis 50 Gewichts-%, b) Betaine in einer Konzentration von 0,01 bis 75 Gewichts-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, neben ggf. anderen Wirk-, Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffen.Surprisingly, the object is achieved by cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing a) polyols in a concentration of 5 to 50% by weight, b) betaines in a concentration of 0.01 to 75% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation , along with any other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives.
Besonders vorteilhaft ist eine Konzentration an Polyolen von 5 bis 20 Gewichts-% und insbesondere von 5 bis 15 Gewichts-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung.A concentration of polyols of 5 to 20% by weight and in particular 5 to 15% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the formulation, is particularly advantageous.
Weiterhin besonders vorteilhaft ist eine Konzentration an Betainen von 0,5 bis 50 Gewichts- % und insbesondere von 3 bis 15 Gewichts-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung.A particularly advantageous concentration of betaines is from 0.5 to 50% by weight and in particular from 3 to 15% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the formulation.
Diese Zubereitungen zeichnen sich durch ein angenehmes wenig klebriges wenig schmieriges Hautgefühl aus ohne das die guten hautbefeuchtenden Eigenschaften verloren gehen.These preparations are characterized by a pleasant, slightly sticky, slightly greasy skin feel without losing the good skin-moisturizing properties.
Das erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Betain ist dabei das Trimethylglycin; als erfindungsgemäß bevorzugtes Polyol wird Glycerin eingesetzt.The betaine which is particularly preferred according to the invention is trimethylglycine; glycerol is used as the preferred polyol according to the invention.
Bestandteil der Erfindung ist die Verwendung von Betainen zur Verringerung der Klebrigkeit polyolhaltiger kosmetischer und/oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen.Part of the invention is the use of betaines to reduce the stickiness of polyol-containing cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations.
Bestandteil der Erfindung ist weiterhin die Verwendung von Betainen zur Verringerung des schmierigen Hautgefühls polyolhaltiger kosmetischer und/oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen. Generell ist die Verwendung von Betainen zur Verbesserung der sensorischen Eigenschaften kosmetischer und/oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen erfindungsgemäß.The invention furthermore relates to the use of betaines to reduce the greasy skin feel of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing polyol. In general, the use of betaines to improve the sensory properties of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations is in accordance with the invention.
Ferner ist die Verwendung von Betainen in kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen nach zur Verringerung des Anhaftens von Fremdpartikeln, insbesondere Sand, auf mit kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen behandelter Haut erfindungsgemäß.Furthermore, the use of betaines in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention to reduce the adherence of foreign particles, in particular sand, to skin treated with cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations.
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen können als Hautcreme, Gesichtscreme und/oder Körperlotion sowie als Sonnenschutzmittel erfindungsgemäß eingesetzt werden.The cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can be used according to the invention as a skin cream, face cream and / or body lotion and as a sunscreen.
Es ist dem Fachmanne natürlich bekannt, dass anspruchsvolle kosmetische Zusammenset- zungen zumeist nicht ohne die üblichen Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffe denkbar sind. Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Zubereitungen können daher kosmetische Hilfsstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z.B. Konservierungsmittel, Bakterizide, Parfümstoffe, Vitamine, Farbstoffe, Mittel zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Verdickungsmittel, weichmachende Substanzen, Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte oder organische Lösungsmittel.It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. The cosmetic preparations according to the invention can therefore contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, vitamins, dyes, anti-foaming agents, thickeners, plasticizers, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes or organic solvents.
So ist es erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft, den erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen UV-Filter hinzuzufügen. Dabei können öllösliche UVA-Filter und/oder UVB-Filter in der Lipidphase und/oder wasserlösliche UVA-Filter und/oder UVB-Filter in der wäßrigen Phase eingesetzt werden.It is advantageous according to the invention to add UV filters to the preparations according to the invention. Oil-soluble UVA filters and / or UVB filters in the lipid phase and / or water-soluble UVA filters and / or UVB filters in the aqueous phase can be used.
Vorteilhafte öllösliche UVB-Filtersubstanzen sind z.B.:Advantageous oil-soluble UVB filter substances include:
- 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethylhe- xyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester; - Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)- ester;- 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester; Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
- Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxy- zimtsäureisopentylester;- Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
- Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon; Methylidencampherderivate, vorzugsweise 4-Methylbenzylidencampher, Benzyliden- campher,- Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; Methylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzylidene camphor,
Symmetrisch substituierte Triazine, vorzugsweise 4,4',4"-(1 ,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)- tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester), synonym: 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2,-ethyl-1 '- hexyloxy)]-1 ,3,5-triazin [ UVINUL T 150 (BASF)],Symmetrically substituted triazines, preferably 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), synonymously: 2,4,6- Tris- [anilino- (p-carbo-2 , -ethyl-1 '- hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine [UVINUL T 150 (BASF)],
Unsymetrisch substituierte Triazine, vorzugsweise 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydro- xy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazin (INCI: Aniso Triazin) und 2,4-Bis-(p- aminobenzoesäure-2ethylhexylester)-6-(p-aminobenzoesäure-N-1 ,1-dimethylethylamid)-Unsymmetrically substituted triazines, preferably 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI : Aniso triazine) and 2,4-bis- (p-aminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester) -6- (p-aminobenzoic acid-N-1,1-dimethylethylamide) -
1 ,3,5-triazin Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Dioctylbutamidotriazone).1, 3,5-triazine dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Dioctylbutamidotriazone).
Vorteilhafte wasserlösliche UVB-Filtersubstanzen sind z.B.:Advantageous water-soluble UVB filter substances include:
- Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)- benzolsulfonsäure,2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze,- Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts,
- 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze [Eusolex 232 (Merck), Neo Heliopan Hydro (H & R), Parsol HS (Givaudan)].- 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts [Eusolex 232 (Merck), Neo Heliopan Hydro (H&R), Parsol HS (Givaudan)].
Die Liste der genannten UVB-Filter, die zusätzlich im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung eingesetzt werden können, soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein.The list of the UVB filters mentioned, which can additionally be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.
Vorteilhafte UVA-Filter sind z.B.:Advantageous UVA filters include:
- 1 ,4-Phenylendimethincamphersulfonsäurederivate wie z.B. 3,3'-(1 ,4-Phenylendimethin)- bis-(7,7-dimethyI-2-oxobicyclo[2.2.1]-heptan-1-methamsulfonsäure und ihre Salze- 1,4-phenylenedimethine camphorsulfonic acid derivatives such as e.g. 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethine) - bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo [2.2.1] -heptane-1-methamsulfonic acid and its salts
- Dibenzoylmethanderivate, vorzugsweise 4-lsopropyldibenzoylmethan, 4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'- methoxydibenzoylmethan- Dibenzoylmethane derivatives, preferably 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane
- Phenylen-1 ,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und seine Natrium-, Kalium- und Triethanolammoiumsalze, insbesondere das Di-Natriumsalz [Neo Heliopan AP (Haarmann & Reimer)].- Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its sodium, potassium and triethanolammoium salts, in particular the disodium salt [Neo Heliopan AP (Haarmann & Reimer) ].
Ferner kann erfindungsgemäß gegebenenfalls von Vorteil sein, die Zubereitungen mit weiteren UVA- und/oder UVB-Filtern zu versehen, beispielsweise bestimmten Sa- licylsäurederivaten wie 4-lsopropylbenzylsalicylat, 2-Ethylhexylsalicylat, Octylsalicylat und Homomenthylsalicylat. Weitere erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft zu verwendende Lichtschutzfiltersubstanzen sind das Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat (Octocrylen), welches von BASF unter der Bezeichnung UVINUL® N 539 erhältlich ist, sowie 2,2'-Methylen-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2- yl)-4-(1 ,1 ,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)-phenol).It may also be advantageous according to the invention to provide the preparations with further UVA and / or UVB filters, for example certain silicic acid derivatives such as 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate and homomenthyl salicylate. Further light protection filter substances which can advantageously be used according to the invention are ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name UVINUL® N 539, and 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- ( 2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol).
Diese weiteren erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaften UV-Lichtschutzfilter werden bevorzugt in einer Konzentration von 0,1 bis 20 Gewichts-%, insbesondere in einer Konzentration von 0,5 bis 10 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, eingesetzt.These further UV light protection filters which are advantageous according to the invention are preferably used in a concentration of 0.1 to 20% by weight, in particular in a concentration of 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
Erfindungsgemäß können die kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Lichtschutzformulierungen wie üblich zusammengesetzt sein und dem kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Lichtschutz, ferner zur Behandlung, der Pflege und der Reinigung der Haut und/oder der Haare und als Schminkprodukt in der dekorativen Kosmetik dienen.According to the invention, the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection formulations can be composed as usual and serve the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, furthermore for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.
Zur Anwendung werden die kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen erfindungsgemäß in der für Kosmetika üblichen Weise auf die Haut und/oder die Haare in ausreichender Menge aufgebracht.For use, the cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
Die kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen können erfindungsgemäßThe cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations can according to the invention
Pigmente (z.B. TiO2, ZnO, BaSO4) enthalten, die eine färbende Wirkung haben und/oder als anorganische Lichtschutzfilter erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft eingesetzt werden können.Contain pigments (for example TiO 2 , ZnO, BaSO 4 ) which have a coloring effect and / or can advantageously be used according to the invention as inorganic light protection filters.
Weitere erfindungsgemäße Hilfsstoffe sind Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung wie Alkohole,Further auxiliaries according to the invention are fats, oils, waxes or other customary constituents of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols,
Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte, organische Lösungsmittel oder Silikonderivate.Polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
Ein zusätzlicher Gehalt an Antioxidantien ist im allgemeinen bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß können als günstige Antioxidantien alle für kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Anwen- düngen geeigneten oder gebräuchlichen Antioxidantien verwendet werden.An additional level of antioxidants is generally preferred. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
Vorteilhaft werden die Antioxidantien gewählt aus der Gruppe bestehend aus AminosäurenThe antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids
(z.B. Glycin, Histidin, Tyrosin, Tryptophan) und deren Derivate, Imidazole (z.B. Urocaninsäu- re) und deren Derivate, Peptide wie D.L-Carnosin, D-Carnosin, L-Carnosin und deren Der- ivate (z.B. Anserin), Carotinoide, Carotine (z.B. α-Carotin, ß-Carotin, Lycopin) und deren De- rivate, Chlorogensäure und deren Derivate, Liponsäure und deren Derivate (z.B. Dihydroli- ponsäure), Aurothioglucose, Propylthiouracil und andere Thiole (z.B. Thioredoxin, Glutathion, Cystein, Cystin, Cystamin und deren Glycosyl-, N-Acetyl-, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Amyl-, Butyl- und Lauryl-, Palmitoyl-, Oleyl-, γ-Linoleyl-, Cholesteryl- und Glycerylester) sowie deren Salze, Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Distearylthiodipropionat, Thiodipropionsäure und deren Derivate (Ester, Ether, Peptide, Lipide, Nukleotide, Nukleoside und Salze) sowie Sulfoximin- verbindungen (z.B. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in sehr geringen verträglichen Dosierungen (z.B. pmol bis μmol/kg), ferner (Metall)-Chelatoren (z.B. α-Hydroxyfettsäuren, Palmitinsäure, Phytinsäure, Laotoferrin), α-Hydroxysäuren (z.B. Citronensäure, Milchsäure, Apfelsäure), Huminsäure, Gallensäure, Gallenextrakte, Bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA und deren Derivate, ungesättigte Fettsäuren und deren Derivate (z.B. γ-Linolensäure, Linolsäure, Ölsäure), Folsäure und deren Derivate, Ubichinon und Ubichinol und deren Derivate, Vitamin C und Derivate (z.B. Ascorbylpalmitat, Mg-Ascorbylphosphat, Ascorbylacetat), Tocopherole und Derivate (z.B. Vitamin-E-acetat), Vitamin A und Derivate (Vitamin-A-palmitat) sowie Koniferylbenzoat des Benzoeharzes, Rutinsäure und deren Derivate, α-Glycosylrutin, Ferulasäure, Furfurylidenglucitol, Carnosin, Butylhydroxytoluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharz- säure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, Harnsäure und deren Derivate, Mannose und deren Derivate, Zink und dessen Derivate (z.B. ZnO, ZnSO4) Selen und des- sen Derivate (z.B. Selenmethionin), Stilbene und deren Derivate (z.B. Stilbenoxid, Trans- Stilbenoxid) und die erfindungsgemäß geeigneten Derivate (Salze, Ester, Ether, Zucker, Nukleotide, Nukleoside, Peptide und Lipide) dieser genannten Wirkstoffe.(eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as DL-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, Carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their de- derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl) , Propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, Nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α- Hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, laotoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E-acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguanajarbaronic acid, nordihydroxy acid, nordihydric acid, nordihydroxy acid, nordihydroxy acid, nordihydroxy acid, nordihydroxy acid, nordihydroxy acid, nordihydroxychloride their derivatives, mannose and their derivatives, zinc and their derivatives (for example ZnO, ZnSO 4 ) selenium and their derivatives (for example selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives (salts, Esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.
Die Menge der vorgenannten Antioxidantien (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Zube- reitungen beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 - 7 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,5 - 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 7% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight on the total weight of the preparation.
Sofern Vitamin E und/oder dessen Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 - 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
Sofern Vitamin A, bzw. Vitamin-A-Derivate, bzw. Carotine bzw. deren Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 - 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen. Darüber hinaus eignen sich ausgewählte erfindungsgemäße Rezepturen, welche z. B. bekannte Antifaltenwirkstoffe wie Flavonglycoside (insbesondere α-Glycosylrutin), Coenzym Q10, Vitamin E und/oder Derivate und dergleichen enthalten, insbesondere vorteilhaft zur Prophylaxe und Behandlung kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Hautveränderungen, wie sie z. B. bei der Hautalterung (z.B. Falten und Fältchen) auftreten. Weiterhin vorteilhaft eignen sie sich gegen das Erscheinungsbild der trockenen bzw. rauhen Haut.If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to use their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation. to choose. In addition, selected recipes according to the invention are suitable, which e.g. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. occur during skin aging (eg wrinkles and fine lines). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
Eine gegebenenfalls vorhandene Lipidphase kann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus folgender Substanzgruppe:Any lipid phase that may be present can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:
Mineralöle, MineralwachseMineral oils, mineral waxes
Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, vorzugsweise aber Rizinusöl;Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;
Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweiseFats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably
Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propylen- glykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;Esters of fatty acids with low C alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
Alkylbenzoate;benzoates;
Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowieSilicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and
Mischformen daraus.Mixed forms of it.
Eine Ölphase der Emulsionen, Oleogele bzw. Hydrodispersionen oder Lipodispersionen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung wird vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe der Ester aus gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweig- ten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen, aus der Gruppe der Ester aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen. Solche Esteröle können dann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropyloleat, n-Butylstearat, n-Hexyllaurat, n- Decyloleat, Isooctylstearat, Isononylstearat, Isononylisononanoat, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat, 2- Ethylhexyllaurat, 2-Hexyldecylstearat, 2-Octyldodecylpalmitat, Oleyloleat, Oleylerucat, Eru- cyloleat, Erucylerucat sowie synthetische, halbsynthetische und natürliche Gemische solcher Ester, z.B. Jojobaöl. Ferner kann die Ölphase vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffe und -wachse, der Silkonöle, der Dialkylether, der Gruppe der gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkohole, sowie der Fettsäuretriglyceride, namentlich der Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen. Die Fettsäuretriglyceride können beispielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der synthetischen, halbsynthetischen und natürlichen Öle, z.B. Olivenöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Sojaöl, Erdnußöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Palmöl, Kokosöl, Palmkemöl und dergleichen mehr.An oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions for the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of the esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl hexyl urate, 2-ethylhexyl hexyl urate Octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example jojoba oil. Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
Auch beliebige Abmischungen solcher Öl- und Wachskomponenten sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung einzusetzen. Es kann auch gegebenenfalls vorteilhaft sein, Wachse, beispielsweise Cetylpalmitat, als alleinige Lipidkomponente der Ölphase einzusetzen.Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
Vorteilhaft wird die Ölphase gewählt aus der Gruppe 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, Octyldodecanol, Isotridecylisononanoat, Isoeicosan, 2-Ethylhexylcocoat, C12. 5-Alkylbenzoat, Capryl-Caprin- säure-triglycerid, Dicaprylylether, Dicaprylyl Carbonat, Butylen Gylcol Dicaprylat/Dicaprat.The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 12 . 5- alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate.
Besonders vorteilhaft sind Mischungen aus C12-i5-Alkylbenzoat und 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, Mischungen aus C12-i5-Alkylbenzoat und Isotridecylisononanoat sowie Mischungen aus C12. -,5-Alkylbenzoat, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat und Isotridecylisononanoat.Mixtures of C 12 i 5 alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C 12 i 5 alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C 12 are particularly advantageous. -, 5- Alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.
Von den Kohlenwasserstoffen sind Paraffinöl, Squalan und Isoparaffin vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden.Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and isoparaffin can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
Vorteilhaft kann die Ölphase ferner einen Gehalt an cyclischen oder linearen Silikonölen aufweisen oder vollständig aus solchen Ölen bestehen, wobei allerdings bevorzugt wird, außer dem Silikonöl oder den Silikonölen einen zusätzlichen Gehalt an anderen Ölphasenkom- ponenten zu verwenden.The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
Vorteilhaft wird Cyclomethicon (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan) oder Dimethicon als erfindungsgemäß zu verwendendes Silikonöl eingesetzt. Aber auch andere Silikonöle sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden, beispielsweise Hexamethylcy- clotrisiloxan, Polydimethylsiloxan, Poly(methylphenylsiloxan).Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) or dimethicone is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. But other silicone oils are also to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
Besonders vorteilhaft sind ferner Mischungen aus Cyclomethicon und Isotridecylisononano- at, aus Cyclomethicon und 2-Ethylhexylisostearat.Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.
Die wäßrige Phase der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen enthält gegebenenfalls vorteilhaft - Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol,The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention advantageously advantageously contains - alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol,
Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -mo- nobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethy- lenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte, ferner Alkohole niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. Ethanol, Isopropanol, 1 ,2-Propandiol, Glycerin sowie insbesondere ein oder mehrere Verdickungsmittel, welches oder welche vorteilhaft gewählt werden können aus der Gruppe Siliciumdioxid, Aluminiumsilikate, Polysaccharide bzw. deren Derivate, z.B. Hyaluronsäure, Xanthangummi, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, besonders vorteilhaft aus der Gruppe der Polyacrylate, bevorzugt ein Polyacrylat aus der Gruppe der sogenannten Carbopole, beispielsweise Carbopole der Typen 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, jeweils einzeln oder in Kombination.Isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products, furthermore low C number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. Hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopols, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und/oder dermatologische Zubereitungen lassen sich erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft in O/W-Emulsionen in sowie in emulgatorfreien O/W- Emulsionen (Hydrodispersionen) einsetzen.The cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can advantageously be used according to the invention in O / W emulsions in and in emulsifier-free O / W emulsions (hydrodispersions).
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen, ohne sie einzu- schränken. Alle Mengenangaben, Anteile und Prozentanteile sind, soweit nicht anders angegeben, auf das Gewicht und die Gesamtmenge bzw. auf das Gesamtgewicht der Emulsion bezogen. W/O-EmulsionenThe following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, parts and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the emulsion. W / O emulsions,
W/Q-EmulsionenW / Q emulsions
W/S-EmulsionW / S-emulsion
W/S-EmulsionenW / S emulsions
ÖI-in-Wasser-EmulsionOil-in-water emulsion
ÖI-in-Wasser-EmulsionenOil-in-water emulsions

Claims

Patentansprüche claims
1. Kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Zubereitungen enthaltend a) Polyole in einer Konzentration von 5 bis 50 Gewichts-%, b) Betaine in einer Konzentration von 0,01 bis 75 Gewichts-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, neben ggf. anderen Wirk-, Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffen.1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing a) polyols in a concentration of 5 to 50% by weight, b) betaines in a concentration of 0.01 to 75% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation, in addition, if appropriate other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives.
2. Zubereitungen nach Anspruch 1 , dadurch gekennzeichnet dass als Betain Trimethylglycin eingesetzt wird. 2. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that trimethylglycine is used as betaine.
3. Zubereitungen nach einem der Ansprüche 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet dass als Polyol Glycerin eingesetzt wird.3. Preparations according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that glycerol is used as the polyol.
4. Verwendung von Betainen nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche zur Verringerung der Klebrigkeit polyolhaltiger kosmetischer und/oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen.4. Use of betaines according to one of the preceding claims to reduce the stickiness of polyol-containing cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations.
5. Verwendung von Betainen nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche zur Verringerung des schmierigen Hautgefühls polyolhaltiger kosmetischer und/oder dermatologischer5. Use of betaines according to one of the preceding claims for reducing the greasy skin feeling of polyol-containing cosmetic and / or dermatological
Zubereitungen.Preparations.
6. Verwendung von Betainen nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche zur Verbesserung der sensorischen Eigenschaften kosmetischer und/oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen. 6. Use of betaines according to one of the preceding claims to improve the sensory properties of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations.
7. Verwendung von Betainen in kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche zur Verringerung des Anhaftens von Fremdpartikeln, insbesondere Sand, auf mit kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen behandelter Haut.7. Use of betaines in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to one of the preceding claims for reducing the adherence of foreign particles, in particular sand, to skin treated with cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations.
8. Verwendung kosmetischer und/oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche als Hautcreme, Gesichtscreme und/oder Körperlotion.8. Use of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to one of the preceding claims as a skin cream, face cream and / or body lotion.
9. Verwendung kosmetischer und/oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche als Sonnenschutzmittel. 9. Use of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to one of the preceding claims as a sunscreen.
EP02777256A 2001-10-04 2002-09-28 Betaine-containing cosmetics Withdrawn EP1438103A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

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DE10148966A DE10148966A1 (en) 2001-10-04 2001-10-04 Betaines are used in improving the sensory properties and foreign matter (especially sand) repellency of polyol-containing cosmetic or dermatological compositions
DE10148966 2001-10-04
PCT/EP2002/010919 WO2003030992A1 (en) 2001-10-04 2002-09-28 Betaine-containing cosmetics

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JP (1) JP2005504837A (en)
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US20040258722A1 (en) 2004-12-23

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