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EP1411883A2 - Preparations moussantes - Google Patents

Preparations moussantes

Info

Publication number
EP1411883A2
EP1411883A2 EP02760246A EP02760246A EP1411883A2 EP 1411883 A2 EP1411883 A2 EP 1411883A2 EP 02760246 A EP02760246 A EP 02760246A EP 02760246 A EP02760246 A EP 02760246A EP 1411883 A2 EP1411883 A2 EP 1411883A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
emulsifier
acid
group
carbon atoms
red
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP02760246A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Heidi Riedel
Rainer Kröpke
Andreas Bleckmann
Ilka Oelrichs
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1411883A2 publication Critical patent/EP1411883A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to foamable cosmetic and dermatological preparations, in particular skin-care foamable cosmetic and dermatological preparations.
  • Foams or foam-like preparations belong to the disperse systems.
  • Emulsions are two- or multi-phase systems of two or more liquids which are insoluble or only slightly soluble in one another.
  • the liquids pure or as solutions
  • the liquids are present in an emulsion in a more or less fine distribution, which is generally only of limited stability.
  • Foams are structures made of gas-filled, spherical or polyhedral cells, which are delimited by liquid, semi-liquid, highly viscous or solid cell bridges.
  • the cell bridges connected via so-called nodes, form a coherent framework.
  • the foam lamellae (closed-cell foam) stretch between the cell bars. If the foam lamellae are destroyed or flow back into the cell webs at the end of foam formation, an open-cell foam is obtained.
  • Foams like emulsions, are also thermally unstable, since surface energy can be obtained by reducing the surface area. The stability and therefore the existence of a foam depends on the extent to which it can prevent its self-destruction.
  • Cosmetic foams are generally dispersed systems composed of liquids and gases, the liquid being the dispersant and the gas being the dispersed substance. Foams made from low-viscosity liquids are temporarily stabilized by surface-active substances (surfactants, foam stabilizers). Because of their large inner surface, such surfactant foams have a strong adsorption capacity, which is used, for example, in cleaning and washing processes. Accordingly, cosmetic foams are used in particular in the areas of cleaning, for example as shaving cream, and hair care.
  • surfactants foam stabilizers
  • foaming agents surfactants or other surfactants that in addition to interfacial activity, they also have a certain ability to form films.
  • Cosmetic foams have the advantage over other cosmetic preparations in that they allow a fine distribution of active ingredients on the skin.
  • cosmetic foams can generally only be achieved by using special surfactants, which moreover are often not very kind to the skin.
  • Post-foaming cosmetic preparations are also known per se. They are first applied to the skin in fluid form from an aerosol container and, after a short delay, develop the actual foam there, for example a shaving foam, under the influence of the post-foaming agent contained. Post-foaming preparations are often in special embodiments such as post-foaming shaving gels or the like.
  • An object of the present invention was to enrich the prior art and to provide cosmetic or dermatological foamable preparations which do not have the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • German Offenlegungsschrift DE 197 54 659 discloses that carbon dioxide is a suitable active ingredient for stabilizing or increasing the epidermal ceramide synthesis rate, which can serve to strengthen the permeability barrier, reduce the trans-epidermal water loss and increase the relative skin moisture.
  • the CO 2 is dissolved in water, for example, with which the skin is then rinsed.
  • the prior art has hitherto known no cosmetic or dermatological foundations into which a gaseous active ingredient could be incorporated in a sufficient, ie effective, concentration.
  • Another object of the present invention was therefore to find cosmetic or dermatological bases in which effective amounts of gaseous active ingredients can be incorporated.
  • At least one emulsifier A selected from the group of fully, partially or not neutralized, branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
  • At least one emulsifier B selected from the group of polyethoxylated fatty acid esters with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms and with a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100 and
  • At least one co-emulsifier C selected from the group consisting of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and
  • lipid phase which contains one or more non-polar lipids with a polarity of at least 30 mN / m remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • foamable is to be understood to mean that the preparations according to the invention form foams when they are foamed, ie when gas is blown into them, for example, or the preparations are (violently) beaten in the gas atmosphere in question, In the foams produced in this way, the gas bubbles can (arbitrarily) be distributed in one (or more) liquid phase (s), the foams not necessarily having the appearance of a foam macroscopically.
  • foamable cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can by foaming z.
  • the foam character can, for example, only become visible under a (light) microscope.
  • the foaming of the foamable preparations according to the invention - especially when the gas bubbles are too small to be recognized under a light microscope - can also be recognized by a large increase in volume of the system.
  • the preparations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect. It was particularly surprising that the foams produced from the foamable preparations according to the invention are extremely stable - even with an unusually high gas volume. Accordingly, preparations in the sense of the present invention are particularly suitable to serve as the basis for product forms with a variety of uses.
  • the preparations according to the invention and the foams obtainable therefrom have very good sensory properties, such as, for example, the distributability on the skin or the ability to be absorbed into the skin, and are furthermore distinguished by an above-average skin care.
  • compositions according to the invention Fine-bubble, rich foams of outstanding cosmetic elegance can be obtained from compositions according to the invention. Furthermore, preparations which are particularly well tolerated by the skin are obtainable from compositions according to the invention, and valuable ingredients can be distributed particularly well on the skin.
  • the invention further relates to the use of foamable cosmetic or dermatological preparations which
  • At least one emulsifier A selected from the group of fully, partially or not neutralized, branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
  • At least one emulsifier B selected from the group of polyethoxylated fatty acid esters with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms and with a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100 and
  • At least one co-emulsifier C selected from the group consisting of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and II.
  • a lipid phase which contains one or more non-polar lipids with a polarity of at least 30 mN / m, as a cosmetic or dermatological basis for gaseous active substances.
  • the emulsifier (s) A are preferably selected from the group of fatty acids which are wholly or partly neutralized with customary alkalis (such as sodium and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or potassium carbonate and mono- and / or triethanolamine) ,
  • customary alkalis such as sodium and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or potassium carbonate and mono- and / or triethanolamine
  • stearic acid and stearates isostearic acid and isostearates, palmitic acid and palmitates, and myristic acid and myristates are particularly advantageous.
  • the emulsifier (s) B are preferably selected from the following group: PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG- 40-sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG Glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate.
  • the co-emulsifier (s) C are preferably selected from the following group: butyl octanol, butyl decanol, hexyl octanol, hexyl decanol, octyl decanoate, behenyl alcohol (C 22 H 45 OH), cetearyl alcohol [a mixture of cetyl alcohol (C ⁇ 6 H 3 OH) and stearyl alcohol (C 18 H 37 OH)], lanolin alcohols (wool wax alcohols, which represent the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of the wool wax which is obtained after the saponification of wool wax). Cetyl and cetylstearyl alcohol are particularly preferred.
  • weight ratios of emulsifier A to emulsifier B to coemulsifier C can represent rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3.
  • a weight ratio of approximately 1: 1: 1 is particularly preferred.
  • the total amount of emulsifiers A and B and of co-emulsifier C is advantageous for the range from 1 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 2 to 15% by weight, in particular from 5 to 10% by weight .-%, each based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.
  • Aerosol containers according to the invention are spray devices with a filling of the liquid or pulp-like substances which are under the pressure of a propellant (compressed gas or aerosol packs).
  • propellant compressed gas or aerosol packs
  • Such containers can be equipped with valves of very different types, which allow the contents to be removed as foam.
  • the pressure gas containers used are primarily cylindrical vessels made of metal (aluminum, tinplate, content ⁇ 1000 mL), protected or non-splintering glass or plastic (content ⁇ 220 mL) or splintering glass or plastic (content ⁇ 150 mL) in question, in the selection of compressive and fracture resistance, corrosion resistance, easy fillability, possibly sterilizability etc., but also aesthetic aspects, handiness, printability etc. play a role.
  • the maximum permissible operating pressure of spray cans made of metal at 50 ° C is 12 bar and the maximum filling volume at this temperature is approx. 90% of the total volume.
  • lower values for the operating pressure apply, depending on the container size and the propellant (whether liquefied, compressed or dissolved gas).
  • Cans made of tinplate, aluminum and glass are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • metal cans can be painted inside (silver or gold painted), for which all commercially available interior protective paints are suitable.
  • Polyester, epoxyphenol and polyamideimide lacquers are preferred for the purposes of the present invention.
  • film laminations made of polyethylene (PE), polypropylene (PP) and / or polyethylene terephthalate (PET) inside the cans are advantageous, especially for cans made of tinplate.
  • the compressed gas containers are usually one or two, but usually three-part cylindrical, conical or other shape. If plastics are used as spray container material, they should be resistant to chemicals and sterilization temperatures, gas-tight, impact-resistant and stable against internal pressures above 12 bar. In principle, polyacetals and polyamides are suitable for spray container purposes.
  • the internal structure of the spray cans and the valve construction are dependent on the intended use and the physical nature of the content - e.g. B. whether as a two- or three-phase system - very varied and can be determined by a person skilled in the art by simply trying out without inventive step.
  • suitable embodiments reference is made to the “Aerosol Technology Manual for Aersosol Packaging” (Wolfgang Tauscher, Melcher Verlag GmbH Heidelberg / Kunststoff, 1996).
  • Valves advantageous according to the invention can be designed with or without a riser pipe.
  • the individual parts from which valves according to the invention are usually constructed preferably consist of the following materials:
  • Sealing natural or synthetic elastomers or thermoplastic (sleeve gaskets, film-lined from PE or PP) inner and outer seals, e.g. B. from Perbunan, Buna, neoprene, butyl, CLB, LDPE, Viton, EPDM, chlorobutyl, bromobutyl and / or various compounds
  • Standard bores e.g. 0.25 to 0.70 mm or 2 x 0.45 to 2 x 1.00 mm
  • different shaft diameters e.g. 0.25 to 0.70 mm or 2 x 0.45 to 2 x 1.00 mm
  • Spring metal, particularly preferably V2A, stainless steel; Plastic and also elastomer
  • VPH holes VPH holes, RPT holes or slotted for overhead applications.
  • B polyacetal, PA, PE, POM and the like
  • Advantageous spray heads in the sense of the present invention are, for example, foam heads for upright use (holding the can vertically) or foam heads for overhead use with one or more channels.
  • the usual "classic" volatile, liquefied propellants such as dimethyl ether (DME) and / or linear or branched chain hydrocarbons with two to five carbon atoms (such as in particular ethane, propane, butane, isobutane and / or pentane) are suitable as blowing agents, which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another.
  • DME dimethyl ether
  • / or linear or branched chain hydrocarbons with two to five carbon atoms such as in particular ethane, propane, butane, isobutane and / or pentane
  • Compressed air and other pressurized gases such as air, oxygen, nitrogen, hydrogen, helium, krypton, xenon, radon, argon, laughing gas (N 2 O) and carbon dioxide (CO 2 ) are also advantageous as propellants in the context of the present invention (both individually and in any mixtures with each other).
  • the volume fraction of propellant gas is advantageously selected from the range from 0.1 to 30% by volume, based on the total volume of filling material and propellant gas (corresponding to a volume fraction of 70 to 99.9% by volume filling material) ,
  • a particularly preferred propellant in the sense of the present invention is carbon dioxide. Foams obtainable from preparations according to the invention which contain carbon dioxide as one or the active ingredient are particularly advantageous.
  • foams according to the invention are foamed using linear or branched-chain, halogenated or non-halogenated hydrocarbons.
  • Very particularly advantageous foams can be obtained by foaming the preparations according to the invention with carbon dioxide, oxygen, compressed air and / or nitrogen.
  • formulations according to the present invention contain further emulsifiers.
  • Those emulsifiers which are suitable for producing W / O emulsions are preferably to be used, these being able to be present both individually and in any combination with one another.
  • the other emulsifier (s) are advantageously selected from the group comprising the following compounds:
  • the further emulsifier or emulsifiers are preferably selected from the group of hydrophilic emulsifiers. According to the invention, particular preference is given to mono-, di-, trifatty acid esters of sorbitan.
  • the total amount of the further emulsifiers is advantageously chosen to be less than 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • Particularly advantageous self-foaming and / or foamable preparations in the sense of the present invention are free from mono- or diglyceryr fatty acid esters, preparations according to the invention which contain no glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate, or glyceryl ethanolate are particularly preferred.
  • the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of nonpolar lipids with a polarity> 30 mN / m.
  • Particularly advantageous nonpolar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are those listed below.
  • the content of the lipid phase is advantageously chosen to be less than 50% by weight, preferably between 1 and 40% by weight, particularly preferably between 5 and 15% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the foamable preparation. It may also be advantageous, although not mandatory, if the lipid phase contains up to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the lipid phase, of polar lipids (with a polarity ⁇ 20 mN / m) and / or medium-polar lipids (with a polarity) from 20 to 30 mN / m) and / or cyclic or linear silicone oils and / or waxes.
  • Particularly advantageous polar lipids in the sense of the present invention are all native lipids, such as, for. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, avocado oil and the like and those listed below.
  • native lipids such as, for. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, avocado oil and the like and those listed below.
  • medium-polar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are those listed below.
  • hydrocarbons paraffin oil and other hydrogenated polyolefins such as hydrogenated polyisobutenes, squalane and squalene are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention and foams obtainable therefrom can be composed as usual.
  • Preparations for skin care are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention: they can be used for cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, also for treating the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.
  • Another advantageous embodiment of the present invention consists of after-sun products.
  • cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions in the sense of the present invention can be used, for example, as a skin protection cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations.
  • the foams obtainable from the preparations according to the invention can also represent “cleaning foams” which are used, for example, to remove make-up and / or make-up or as a mild wash foam - if necessary
  • Such cleansing foams can also advantageously be used as so-called “rinse-off” preparations which are rinsed off the skin after use
  • Foams obtainable from cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be in the form of a foam for the care of the hair or the scalp, in particular a foam for inserting the hair, a foam which is used when the hair is blow-dried, a hairdressing and treatment foam.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention and / or foams obtainable therefrom are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, bactericides, perfumes, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, waxes or other conventional components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols , Polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic auxiliaries e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, bactericides, perfumes, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, waxes or other conventional components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols , Polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin), iodopropylbutyl carbamates (for example those available under the trade names Koncyl-L, Koncyl-S and Konkaben LMB from Lonza), Parabens, phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like.
  • formaldehyde releasers such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin
  • iodopropylbutyl carbamates for example those available under the trade names Koncyl-L, Koncyl-S and Konkaben LMB from Lonza
  • Parabens phenoxyethanol
  • ethanol benzoic acid and the like.
  • the preservation system according to the invention advantageously also includes preservation aids, such as octoxyglycerol, glycine soy, etc.
  • compositions are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients.
  • the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid) , Aurothio- glucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g.
  • thioredoxin glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, Palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthioninsulfoximines homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine
  • very low tolerable dosages e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg
  • metal chelators e.g. ⁇ - Hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g.
  • ⁇ -linolenic acid linoleic acid, oil acid
  • folic acid and its derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives
  • vitamin C and derivatives e.g. As ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as konyferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and their Derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g.
  • ZnO, ZnS04 selenium and its derivatives (e.g. stilbene methine) and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.
  • stilbene methine e.g. stilbene methine
  • stilbene oxide eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide
  • the derivatives suitable according to the invention salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids
  • water-soluble antioxidants such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.
  • compositions according to the invention are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • preferred active ingredients are vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • the active ingredients can also be selected very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group:
  • vitamin F essential fatty acids
  • the active substances from the group of refatting substances, for example purcellin oil, Eucerit and Neocerit.
  • the active ingredient (s) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, in particular if the preparations according to the invention are used for Treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic aging of the skin and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin are intended to serve.
  • the preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.
  • the active ingredient (s) are furthermore advantageously selected from the group comprising catechins and bile acid esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile acid esters of catechins, such as, for example, the leaves of the Theaceae plant family , in particular of the species Camellia sjnensis (green tea) .
  • catechins and bile acid esters of catechins such as, for example, the leaves of the Theaceae plant family , in particular of the species Camellia sjnensis (green tea) .
  • Particularly advantageous are their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids).
  • Catechins are a group of compounds which are to be understood as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins and derivatives of "catechins” (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4- Dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-triol) Also epicatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4 ⁇ 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active substance in the sense of the present invention.
  • plant extracts containing catechins in particular extracts of green tea, such as. B. extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Cameliia spec, whole, in particular the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. talienisis or C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.
  • Preferred active ingredients are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechol, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin chelate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin , (-) - epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.
  • Flavon and its derivatives are advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):
  • flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.
  • the flavonoids are preferably chosen from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  • Zi to Z 7 are independently selected from the.
  • the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  • Zi to Z 6 are independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the Group of the mono- and oligoglycoside residues.
  • Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  • Gly 1t Gly 2 and Gly 3 independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or.
  • Gly 2 or Gly 3 can also represent, individually or together, saturations by hydrogen atoms.
  • Glyi, Gly 2 and Gly 3 are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals.
  • hexosyl radicals for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.
  • Zi to Z 5 are advantageously selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure
  • Gly-i, Gly 2 and Gly 3 independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly 2 or Gly 3 can also represent, individually or together, saturations by hydrogen atoms.
  • Gly ! , Gly 2 and Gly 3 are independently selected from the group of hexosyl residues, in particular Rha nosyl residues and glucosyl residues.
  • hexosyl radicals for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.
  • flavone glycoside (s) from the group ⁇ -glucosyl rutin, ⁇ -glucosyl myrcetin, ⁇ -glucosyl iso-quercitrin, ⁇ -glucosyl iso-quercetin and glucosyl-quercitrin.
  • ⁇ -glucosylrutin is particularly preferred.
  • naringin aurantiin, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside
  • hesperidin 3 ⁇ 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanon-7-rutinoside
  • hesperidoside hesparin-7-O-rutinoside
  • Rutin S, S '. ⁇ .
  • the active ingredient (s) from the group of ubiquinones and plastoquinones.
  • Coenzyme Q10 which is characterized by the following structural formula, is particularly advantageous:
  • Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active substances for the purposes of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:
  • Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate and creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and the derivatives esterified on the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols.
  • acyl-carnitine which is selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula
  • R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. fertil. Propionylcarnitine and in particular acetylcarnitine are preferred. Both enantiomers (D- and L-form) can be used advantageously in the sense of the previous invention. It can also be advantageous to use any mixture of enantiomers, for example a racemate of D and L form.
  • the list of the active substances or combinations of active substances mentioned which can be used in the preparations according to the invention is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • the active ingredients can be used individually or in any combination with one another.
  • Skin aging is e.g. B. caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and dermis it occurs due to aging e.g. B. the following structural damage and malfunctions, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis":
  • Exogenous factors such as UV light and chemical pollutants
  • exogenous factors e.g. B. the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin, which go beyond the extent and quality of the damage with chronological aging:
  • compositions according to the invention can also have an anti-wrinkle effect or considerably increase the effect of known anti-wrinkle active ingredients. Accordingly, formulations within the meaning of the present invention are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as those described, for example, in US Pat. B. occur during skin aging. They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • the present invention therefore relates to products for the care of the naturally aged skin and for the treatment of the consequential damage caused by light aging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).
  • the water phase of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols having a low C number, and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and moisturizers.
  • customary cosmetic auxiliaries such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols having a low C number, and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene
  • Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the horny layer (also called trans-epidermal water joss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the skin after application or distribution on the skin surface To influence the horny layer positively.
  • TEWL trans-epidermal water joss
  • moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is listed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration date mer 178463-23-5 filed and z. B. is available under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics.
  • the dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food.
  • Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe 2 O 3 , Fe 3 O 4 , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide.
  • Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green. Ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the list below.
  • the Color Index Numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.
  • Pigment Violet 23 51319 violet, 2-dioxyanthraquinone, calcium-aluminum complex 58000 red
  • Chlorophyll a and b Copper compounds of chlorophylls and 75810 ' green
  • Chromium oxide containing 77289 green
  • Titanium dioxide and its mixtures with mica 77891 white
  • the formulations according to the invention are in the form of products which are used on the face, it is advantageous to choose one or more substances from the following group as the dye: 2,4-dihydroxyobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4 '-nitro-1'- 5 phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, ceres red, 2- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2'- a ⁇ onaphthalene-T-sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene -3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-s
  • oil-soluble natural dyes such as. B. paprika extracts, ß-carotene 0 or cochineal.
  • Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred: ⁇ .
  • Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI)
  • Layer-substrate pigments e.g. B. mica / metal oxide 0 Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is z. B. the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77163.
  • pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.
  • pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se.
  • other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like.
  • TiO 2 and Fe 0 3 coated Si0 2 particles are advantageous for. B. with TiO 2 and Fe 0 3 coated Si0 2 particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.
  • It can also be advantageous to do without a substrate such as mica.
  • Iron pearlescent pigments which are produced without the use of mica are particularly preferred.
  • Such pigments are e.g. B. available under the trade name ⁇ Sicopearl Kupfer 1000 from BASF.
  • effect pigments which are available from Flora Tech under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in various colors (yello, red, green, blue).
  • the glitter particles are present in mixtures with 0 different auxiliaries and dyes (such as, for example, the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).
  • the dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and can be mutually coated, different color effects generally being produced by different coating thicknesses.
  • the total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageously from the range of z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 1 ⁇ wt .-%, in particular from 1.0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations. 0
  • cosmetic and dermatological preparations the main purpose of which is not protection from sunlight, but which nevertheless contain UV protection substances.
  • So z. B. in day creams or makeup products usually UV-A or UV-B filter ⁇ ter substances.
  • UV protection substances like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.
  • the preparations according to the present invention preferably contain, in addition to one or more UV filter substances according to the invention, at least one further UV-A and / or UV-B filter substance.
  • the wording may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or oil phase.
  • Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (Ti0 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 0 3 ), zirconium (Zr0 2 ), silicon ( Si0 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al 2 0 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 0 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides.
  • Barium sulfate (BaS0 4 ) is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • such pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), with an amphiphilic or hydrophobic character, for example, being formed or retained.
  • This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are coated with a thin film using methods known per se be provided with a hydrophobic layer.
  • z. B titanium dioxide pigments coated with octylsilanol. Suitable titanium dioxide particles are available under the trade name T80 ⁇ from Degussa. Also particularly advantageous are Ti0 2 pigments coated with aluminum stearate, e.g. B. those available under the trade name MT 100 T from TAYCA.
  • Another advantageous coating of the inorganic pigments consists of dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), a mixture of fully methylated, linear siloxane polymers which are blocked at the end with trimethylsiloxy units.
  • Zinc oxide pigments which are coated in this way are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the inorganic pigments are also advantageous to coat with a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane, in particular dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units, and silica gel, which is also known as Simethicone is called. It is particularly advantageous if the inorganic pigments are additionally coated with aluminum hydroxide or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2). Titanium dioxides which are coated with simethicone and alumina are particularly advantageous, the coating also being able to contain water. An example of this is the titanium dioxide available from Merck under the trade name Eusolex T2000.
  • An advantageous organic pigment for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) fINCI: bisoctyl-triazole], which is characterized by the chemical structural formula
  • Tinosorb® M is marked and is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemical GmbH.
  • the UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B region wherein the total amount of filter substances.
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS no. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the brand Parsol ® 1789 and by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • dibenzoyl methane derivatives in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS no. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the brand Parsol ® 1789 and by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • UV-A filter substances are phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazy]) - 3,3'- ⁇ , ⁇ '-tetrasulfonic acid
  • salts especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'- ⁇ , 5 , -tetrasulfonic acid-bis sodium salt
  • 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt
  • benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid is also called benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid
  • Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, ie filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives with the following structure:
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are selected independently of one another from the group of the branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or an individual hydrogen atom. Particularly preferred are the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3, ⁇ -triazine (INCI: Aniso Tria - Zin), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
  • Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain a plurality of UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane diyates [for example 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], benzotriazole derivatives [for example the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbuty! Phenol) ], Phenylene-1,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or their salts, the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3- bomylidene methyl) benzene and / or its salts and / or the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy
  • UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention, for example the s-triazine derivatives described in European patent application EP 670 838 A1, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula
  • R represents a branched or unbranched CC 18 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more CC alkyl groups,
  • X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group,
  • Ri is a branched or unbranched CrC ⁇ 8 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC 4 alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or one
  • A represents a branched or unbranched C r C 18 alkyl radical, a C 3 -C 12 cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C r C 4 alkyl groups
  • R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • n represents a number from 1 to 10
  • R 2 represents a branched or unbranched CC 18 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more dC 4 alkyl groups, when X represents the NH group , and a branched or unbranched C 8 -C alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CrC 4 - alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
  • A represents a branched or unbranched CC 18 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more CC alkyl groups,
  • R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • n represents a number from 1 to 10 when X represents an oxygen atom.
  • a particularly preferred UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula
  • dioctylbutylamidotriazon (1NCI: dioctylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sig a 3V.
  • Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention is a symmetrically substituted s-triazine, the 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4 I 6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2- ethylhexyl ester), synonymous: 2,4,6-tris- [anilino- (p-carbo-2 , -ethyl-1 , -hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl triazone), which is marketed by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® f 150.
  • European laid-open specification 775698 also describes bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives which are preferably to be used, the chemical structure of which is represented by the generic formula is reproduced, wherein Ri, R 2 and A n represent a wide variety of organic radicals.
  • Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3-sulfonato) - 2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3, ⁇ -triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl ) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- [4- (2-methoxyethyl carboxyl ) -phenylamino] -1, 3,6-triazine, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6
  • An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) , which is characterized by the chemical structural formula
  • Tinosorb® M is marked and is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemical GmbH.
  • Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-r-ethy) -6- [2-methyl-3- [1, 3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- Ktrimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyI] propyl] phenol (CAS no .: 156633-64-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is characterized by the chemical structural formula
  • the UV-B and / or broadband filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
  • Advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g.
  • ⁇ salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolamine salt, and the suifonic acid itself;
  • a further light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul ® N 539 and is characterized by the following structure:
  • the preparations according to the invention advantageously contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic
  • 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-% preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic
  • emulsion I 90 vol.% Of emulsion I is foamed with 10 vol.% Of a propellant gas mixture of propane and butane 3 .
  • the foaming can, for. B. done by blowing gas into the preparations or beating, shaking, spraying or stirring in the relevant gas atmosphere (violently). 60
  • emulsion III 95 vol.% Of emulsion III is foamed with 5 vol.% Of a propellant gas mixture of propane and butane 3
  • emulsion V is foamed with 11 vol.% Laughing gas 3 .
  • Vitamin E acetate 2.00
  • emulsion VI 92 vol.% Of emulsion VI is foamed with 8 vol.% Of a propellant gas mixture of propane and butane 3 .
  • emulsion VII 85 vol.% Of emulsion VII is foamed with 15 vol.% Helium 3 .

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques moussantes qui contiennent (I) un système d'émulsifiants comprenant (A) au moins un émulsifiant A, choisi dans le groupe des acides gras entièrement, partiellement ou non neutralisés, ramifiés et/ou non ramifiés, saturés et/ou non saturés présentant une longueur de chaîne de 10 à 40 atomes de carbone, (B) au moins un émulsifiant B, choisi dans le groupe des esters d'acides gras polyéthoxylés présentant une longueur de chaîne de 10 à 40 atomes de carbone et un degré d'éthoxylation compris entre 5 et 100, et (C) au moins un coémulsifiant C, choisi dans le groupe des alcools gras saturés et/ou non saturés, ramifiés et/ou non ramifiés présentant une longueur de chaîne de 10 à 40 atomes de carbone, et (II) jusqu'à 50 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la préparation moussante, d'une phase lipide contenant un ou plusieurs lipides non polaires présentant une polarité d'au moins 30 mN/m.
EP02760246A 2001-07-17 2002-07-16 Preparations moussantes Withdrawn EP1411883A2 (fr)

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PCT/EP2002/007908 WO2003007894A2 (fr) 2001-07-17 2002-07-16 Preparations moussantes

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DE10134729A1 (de) 2003-02-06
WO2003007894A3 (fr) 2003-05-01
US20040202618A1 (en) 2004-10-14

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