EP1455744A2

EP1455744A2 - Cosmetic and/or dermatological active ingredient combination

Info

Publication number: EP1455744A2
Application number: EP02785204A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Jan Batzer; Werner Berens; Thomas Blatt; Reza Keyhani; Inge Kruse; Claudia Mundt; Andreas Schepky; Melanie Schmidt; Uwe SCHÖNROCK; Jens Schulz; Christoph Smuda; Franz STÄB; Rainer Wolber
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2001-10-13
Filing date: 2002-10-11
Publication date: 2004-09-15
Also published as: WO2003032941A2; WO2003032941A3; US20050008665A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid.

Description

Cosmetic and / or dermatological combination of active ingredients

description

The present invention relates to the use of active substances known per se for cosmetic and topical dermatological skin lightening or for preventing skin tanning, in particular skin tanning caused by UV radiation, and for lightening the natural hair color.

In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as e.g. unwanted pigmentation, e.g. local hyper- and deficient pigmentation (e.g. liver spots, freckles), inhibition of natural pigmentation, but also for purely cosmetic lightening of larger areas of the skin, which are pigmented to suit the individual skin type.

Melanocytes are responsible for the pigmentation of the skin, which can be found in the bottom layer of the epidermis, the stratum basale, next to the basal cells as - depending on the skin type, either isolated or more or less frequently occurring pigment-forming cells. As characteristic cell organelles, melanocytes contain melanosomes, in which the melanin is formed. When stimulated by UV radiation, among other things, melanin is increasingly formed. This is ultimately transported via the living layers of the epidermis (keratinocytes) into the horny layer (comeocytes) and causes a more or less pronounced brown to brown-black skin color. Melanin is formed as the final stage of an oxidative process, in which tyrosine with the help of the enzyme tyrosinase via several intermediate stages to the brown to brown-black eumelanins (DHICA and DHI

CARE OPIE Melanin) or with the participation of sulfur-containing compounds to reddish pheomelanin. DHICA and DHI melanin are produced via the common intermediate stages dopaquinone and dopachrome. The latter is implemented, partly with the participation of further enzymes, either in indole-5,6-quinone carboxylic acid or in indole-5,6-quinone, from which the two eumelanins mentioned arise. The formation of phaeomelanin occurs, among other things, via the intermediates dopaquinone and cysteinyldopa.

Similar to the pigmentation of the skin, melanin-producing melanocytes are also responsible for the hair color (pigmentation of the hair). The amount and composition of melanin in the hair determines the natural hair color, which is genetically determined.

Problems with hyperpigmentation of the skin have various causes or are side effects of many biological processes, e.g. UV radiation (e.g. freckles, ephelides), genetic disposition, incorrect pigmentation of the skin during wound healing or scarring or skin aging (e.g. Lentigines seniles).

Active substances and preparations are known which counteract skin pigmentation. In practice, preparations based on hydroquinone are essentially used, but some of them only show their effect after several weeks of use, the excessive use of which is also of concern for toxicological reasons. The inhibition of tyrosinase with substances such as kojic acid, ascorbic acid and azelaic acid and their derivatives is also common, but has cosmetic and dermatological disadvantages.

Strongly prooxidative processes are used to lighten the hair color, which can severely damage the hair. The bleaching of hair with hydrogen peroxide is particularly well-known here.

The object of the present invention was to remedy this problem.

8-Hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid (dioic acid, CAS number 20701-68-2; provisional INCI name Octadecendioic acid) is a metabolite of yeast cells of the Candida strain. It is characterized by the following structure: HOOO. - - - - - - - - - - -COOH

HOOC ^ ^^ ^^ ^^ \ = / ^ ^ \ ^ ^ COOH A fatty acid of purely vegetable origin serves as the starting substance. This is converted into the hydroxy fatty acid, which is then oxidized to the fatty acid aldehyde and ultimately to the dicarboxy acid. The yeast cells come from selected mutant strains. The commercial product has a purity of 95%. 8-Hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid is present as a mixture of the cis and trans isomers, the cis isomer predominating in terms of quantity. Oleic acid can be contained in the product at a concentration of approximately 3%. Among the solvents and oils, ethanol and ethanol / water mixtures (for example 50:50), dibutyl adipate, cetearyl ethyl hexanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl hexyl cocoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, cetearyl acetate are particularly suitable as solvents for dioic acid for cosmetic formulations. Hexanoate, polypropylene glycol 3 myristyl ether, polypropylene glycol 15 stearyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, isohexadecane, octyldodecanol and 2-ethylhexyl methoxytin amate, very particularly preferably octyldodecanol, isohexadecane, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and dibutyl adipate.

Antioxidants generally prevent oxidation processes. The effect of the antioxidants is that the autoxidative chain reaction is terminated or that the antioxidative effect of existing antioxidants is increased, their effectiveness is regenerated, or the effectiveness of autooxidation-promoting substances is inhibited.

Basically, a distinction can be made at the cellular level between enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidants, with the non-enzymatic antioxidants being divided into hydrophilic and lipophilic. The different antioxidants are represented to varying degrees in the individual tissues. Since the skin is made up of at least 2 tissues, the epithelial epidermis and the connective tissue dermis, depending on the point of view, a different distribution of the antioxidants can also be observed in the skin. In general, one can say that the epidermis, as the outermost barrier of the organism to the environment, is far better endowed with antioxidants than the dermis. Enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidants are in part closely linked to one another and to one another via regenerative reaction pathways in which the cell's energy metabolism plays an important role.

Since the mode of action of the cell's own antioxidants is ultimately based on redox reactions, reduction equivalents are required for the regeneration of the oxidized antioxidants. These reduction equivalents are provided in the form of NAD (P) H from the energy metabolism. In the epidermis, the oxidative part of the pentose phosphate pathway with glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase appears to be of particular importance in the synthesis of NADPH. In addition, other sources of reduction equivalents are the isocitrate shuttle and the malate shuttle with the enzymes isocitrate dehydrogenase and the "malic enzyme", respectively.

Because of its close connection with other enzymatic (e.g. glutathione peroxidase) and non-enzymatic (Viamin-C, Vitamin-E) antioxidant systems and its regeneration directly via reduction equivalents from energy metabolism, reduced glutathione (GSH) is of particular importance. GSH is the tripeptide γGlutamyl-Cysteyl-Glycin with a sulfhydryl group as a functional group, which occurs in keratinocytes in a concentration of 1-2 mM and is therefore the most common intracellular free thiol. It is represented 2-5 times as often in the epidermis as in the dermis.

In addition to its involvement in other antioxidant systems, GSH itself can also act as an antioxidant. In this context, the GSH is of particular importance for the reduction of oxidized sulfhydryl groups in proteins, since reduced sulfhydryl groups are often essential for the function of the proteins. In addition to this property, GSH can also react with free radicals and, like many other thiols, with singlet oxygen and thus reduce oxidative stress.

Oxidized glutathione (GSSG), which occurs in the reactions mentioned, in the regeneration of other antioxidants and in the GSH-dependent enzymatic antioxidant reactions (see below), is reduced again by the glutathione reductase with NADPH as a cofactor. Glutathione reductase shows a significantly higher activity in the epidermis, where it is represented to a similar extent than in the liver, than in the dermis.

In addition to glutathione, ascorbate (vitamin C) is the most important intracellular water-soluble antioxidant. It reacts equally with singlet oxygen, superoxide, hydrogen peroxide and the highly reactive hydroxyl radical and occurs in the epidermis four times more often than in the dermis. In addition, ascorbate reacts with the free vitamin E radical and is therefore involved in the regeneration of oxidized vitamin E into a functional antioxidant (see below). The reaction of ascorbate with a radical gives rise to the semialdehyde ascorbate radical, which is only weakly reactive and either disproportionately disproportionates by reaction with another semialdehyde ascorbate radical, which in turn ultimately produces ascorbate, or through NADH and GSH-dependent ascorbate reductases Antioxidant is regenerated.

Uric acid is an antioxidant that works primarily in plasma, but is also found in human skin. It occurs five times higher in the epidermis than in the dermis.

Tocopherols (vitamin E), of which αTocopherol is the most effective radical scavenger in mammalian tissues, is the most important membrane-bound antioxidant. It prevents the formation of free lipid radicals and lipid peroxidation by interrupting the chain reaction described above. Tocopherols are approximately twice as strong in the epidermis as in the dermis. As already described, the oxidized tocopherol radical is reduced by ascorbate.

Ubiquinone and ubiquinol are summarized under the term coenzyme Q, where ubiquinol is more effective as an antioxidant and comes close to tocopherol in its effectiveness. The epidermal content of ubiquinol-10, i.e. Ubiquinol with 10 isoprene units is 9 times higher than dermal in human skin.

As a vitamin A precursor, ß-carotene is also important as an antioxidant in human skin. Its antioxidant effect is known as the singlet oxygen quencher.

Basically, it can be said that enzymatic antioxidant systems work more effectively in combating oxidative stress than the non-enzymatic antioxidants.

The selenium-containing enzyme glutathione peroxidase occurs in the cytoplasm as a tetramer, metabolizes both hydrogen peroxide and organic peroxides and can be induced by oxidative stress. To a lesser extent, the enzyme is also found within mitochondria. In addition to the tetrameric selenoenzyme, there is also a monomeric selenium-containing enzyme that is specific for phospholipid hydroperoxides. With regard to the distribution in the skin, one finds approximately in the epidermis and dermis equal relationships. The activity of the keratinocytes closest to the environment of the organism is equipped with a better defense against oxidative stress, since they are most exposed to it.

Some GSH-S transferase subtypes, i.e. the alpha forms also have organic peroxidase activity. So far, only the pi form has been detected in cultured human keratinocytes, whereas the alpha form can also be found in human skin.

The glutathione peroxidases, i.e. the selenoenzymes and the GSH-S transferases with peroxidase activity can be seen in direct connection with the other components of the GSH redox system. The relevant functions of GSH, GSH reductase and the NAD (P) H-providing metabolic pathways have already been discussed above.

Catalases that break down hydrogen peroxide via a dismutation reaction have a four-fold higher activity in the epidermis than in the dermis.

Other important antioxidant enzymes are superoxide dismutases (SOD). They catalyze the formation of hydrogen peroxide from superoxide anions and protons. The resulting hydrogen peroxide is metabolized by the mechanisms described above. A distinction is made between the cytoplasmic Cu ²⁺ / Zn ²⁺ and mitochondrial Mn ²⁺ isoforms, which occur in the skin in a ratio of 3: 1. Overall, SOD activity is 5-10 times higher in the skin than in other tissues, with little difference between the epidermis and dermis. In response to oxidative stress, there is a compensatory increase in SOD in the skin.

NAD (P) H: quinone reductase is also one of the enzymatic antioxidants found in the skin. The enzyme is expressed in human keratinocytes to a similar extent as in the liver and can also be induced by various xenobiotics and by oxidative stress.

In addition to its important function in DNA synthesis, thioredoxin reductase also has antioxidant properties in the skin and can be found both in the cytoplasm and on the cell surface of keratinocytes. The thioredoxin reductase / thioredoxin system appears to be involved in other antioxidant reactions in addition to its radical-capturing properties. The following antioxidants can be used in cosmetics: amino acids, imidazoles, peptides, carotenoids, carotenes, retinoids, α-lipoic acid, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipionic acid and sulfoximine compounds, and also sulfoximine compounds -Hydroxy acids, humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA, unsaturated fatty acids, 2-aminopropionic acid diacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, ubiquinone and ubiquinol, vitamin C, tocopherols, as well as coniferyl benzoate, benzoic acid, benzoic acid, Ferulic acid, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid, mannose, zinc and selenium compounds, stilbene.

However, none of this could pave the way for the present invention.

It has therefore surprisingly turned out to be completely unpredictable for the person skilled in the art that cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active ingredient combinations of at least one antioxidant or its derivative and 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

It is preferred if the antioxidant or antioxidants are selected from the group of imidazoles (for example urocanic acid), peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-camosine, L-carnosine (for example anserine), carotenoids such as for example α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene and phytoene, α-lipoic acid (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), lipoic acid amide, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl) , Propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters, their salts and sulfoximine compounds (eg buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, hep- tathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), metal chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin, EDTA, EGTA, ferritin, desferal), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, unsaturated Fatty acids (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid, flavonoids (e.g. alpha glucosylrutin), polyphenols, catechins, melanins, ubiquinone and ubiquinol, vitamin C (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherol acetate -E-acetate), rutinic acids, ferulic acids, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, kojic acid, uric acids, mannoses, zinc and its salts (e.g. ZnO, ZnSθ4) selenium compounds and / or selenium methionate (e.g. selenium methionate) or selenium methionate Antioxidants such as catalase, superoxide dismutases, glutathione peroxidases, thioredoxin reductase and the corresponding enzyme mimetics.

It is particularly preferred if the antioxidant or antioxidants are selected from the group urocanic acid, phytoene, lipoic acid, liponamide, ferritin, desferal, billirubin, billiverdin, melanins, ubiquinone, ubiquinol, vitamin C and its derivatives ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Ascorbylacetate, tocopherols and derivatives such as vitamin E acetate, uric acid, α-glucosylrutin, kalalase and the superoxide dismutase.

It is very particularly preferred if the antioxidant or antioxidants are selected from the group urocanic acid, lipoic acid, liponamide, melanins, ubiquinone, α-tocopherol, uric acid and catalase.

It is preferred if the concentrations of antioxidant or antioxidants, if vitamin E and / or its derivatives are not used as antioxidants, 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, if vitamin E and / or its derivatives are used as antioxidants 0.001 to 10% by weight and the concentration of 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

The preparations are preferably used against undesired pigmentation of the skin and / or for the treatment of pigmentation disorders and against undesired pigmentation of the hair and / or for lightening the hair.

It is advantageous to use 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid in the form of one of its enantiomers.

Antioxidants in combination with 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid, collectively also referred to as "active ingredient combination according to the invention" or "active ingredient according to the invention", has proven to be outstandingly effective against unwanted pigmentation, in particular local hyperpigmentation, and against skin tanning caused by UV radiation, and Although both preventive and in the sense of a treatment, it is also extremely advantageous according to the invention to use the active ingredient used according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient used according to the invention cosmetic or dermatological treatment of undesirable skin pigmentation, for example inhomogeneous pigmentation of the aging skin, lentigines senile or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. α-Lipoic acid was isolated from liver tissue in 1952 and its structure as a sulfur-containing fatty acid was elucidated.

α-lipoic acid

Bacteria, plants and higher organisms can produce α-lipoic acid in their metabolism themselves, for humans the question of their own biosynthesis is still open. α-Lipoic acid is used to treat polyneuropathy, a sensory disorder on the hands and feet as a late consequence of diabetes. 200 to 600 milligrams of α-lipoic acid per day lead to a significant reduction in pain intensity. The energy metabolism of the hand and foot nerves is activated by α-lipoic acid, which leads to better nerve conductivity and thus less numbness and reflex failures. α-Lipoic acid lowers pathologically increased liver values and promotes the healing of hepatitis. Most foods contain small amounts of α-lipoic acid, only relatively high levels can be found in meat. It is recognized that α-lipoic acid has strong antioxidant properties.

WO97 / 10808 and US Pat. No. 5,472,698 describe the cosmetic use of α-lipoic acid against symptoms of skin aging. DE-42 42 876 describes active ingredient combinations of biotin and antioxidants with α-lipoic acid for cosmetic and / or dermatological care of the skin and / or the appendages of the skin as well as cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing such active ingredient combinations.

It was therefore surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, the active ingredient combinations of α- Lipoic acid and vegetable and animal extracts containing the same with 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid remedy the disadvantages of the prior art. It is advantageous if α-lipoic acid or plant and animal extracts containing the same, in concentrations of 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.01-5% by weight, in particular 0.1-2.0% by weight. -% are present and 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid is present in a total concentration of 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.005-8% by weight, in particular 0.05-5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations. The invention also includes the use of such cosmetic or dermatological preparations against unwanted pigmentation of the skin and / or for the treatment of pigmentation disorders. Furthermore, the undesirable pigmentation of the hair is reduced by the combination of active ingredients mentioned and thus brings about a brightening of the hair.

It is advantageous to use 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid also in the form of one of its enantiomers α-lipoic acid in combination with 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid, collectively also referred to as “active substance combination according to the invention” or “active substance according to the invention” has proven to be outstandingly effective against undesired pigmentation, in particular local hyperpigmentation and against tanning of the skin caused by UV radiation, both preventively and in the sense of a treatment, but it is also extremely advantageous according to the invention to use the active ingredient or cosmetic used according to the invention or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient used according to the invention for the cosmetic or dermatological treatment of undesired skin pigmentation, that is to say for example inhomogeneous pigmentation of the aging skin, lentigines senile or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Carnosine occurs in the muscle tissue of humans and many animals; in birds the methyl derivative anserine instead. Little is known about the function of carnosine in the organism; it appears to have neurotransmitter function in the olfactory nerves.

The chemical structure of L-camosine is characterized as follows: COOH

T

H ₂ N - CH ₂ - CH ₂ - CO - NH-C - CH ₂ i

H

WO94 / 9421245 describes the use of L-carnosine or combinations of the active ingredients L-carnosine and cis-urocanic acid or L-carnosine and trans-urocanic acid or L-carnosine and mixtures of ice and trans-urocanic acid, if appropriate in each case in combination with one or more antioxidants and optionally with a suitable carrier, for cosmetic and dermatological purposes, in particular for the prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses and preferably polymorphic light dermatosis. However, the prior art has failed to point the way in the direction of the present invention.

It was therefore surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing the active substance combinations of carnosine and plant and animal extracts containing the same with 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid remedy the disadvantages of the prior art. It is preferred if these preparations contain L-carnosine. It is advantageous if carnosine or plant and animal extracts containing the same are present in concentrations of 0.001-10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01-1% by weight, and 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid is present in a total concentration of 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.005-8% by weight, in particular 0.05-5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations. The invention also includes the use of such cosmetic or dermatological preparations against unwanted pigmentation of the skin and / or for the treatment of pigmentation disorders. Furthermore, the undesirable pigmentation of the hair is reduced by the combination of active ingredients mentioned and thus brings about a brightening of the hair.

It is advantageous to use 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid in the form of one of its enantiomers.

Carnosine in combination with 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid, collectively also referred to as “active ingredient combination according to the invention” or “active ingredient according to the invention”, has proven to be outstandingly effective against undesired pigmentation, in particular special local hyperpigmentation, as well as against skin tanning caused by UV radiation, both preventively and in the sense of a treatment. However, it is also extremely advantageous according to the invention to use the active ingredient or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations used according to the invention with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention for cosmetic or dermatological treatment of undesired skin pigmentation, that is to say for example inhomogeneous pigmentation of the aging skin, lentigines senile or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula

and make the most widespread u. thus the best studied bio-quinones. Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are classified as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 etc. or according to the number of C atoms as U-5, U- 10, U-15 and so on. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, e.g. B. in some microorganisms u. Yeast with n = 6. Q-10 predominates in most mammals, including humans.

Coenzyme Q-10, for example, is characterized by the following structural formula:

Ubiquinones serve the organisms as electron carriers in the respiratory chain. They are located in the mitochondria where they enable the cyclic oxidation and reduction of the substrates of the citric acid cycle. Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on. They can be isolated from chloroplasts and play a role as redox substrates in photosynthesis in the cyclic and non-cyclic electron transport, whereby they reversibly change into the corresponding hydroquinones (plastoquinol). Plastoquinones differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are designated accordingly, e.g. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Cosmetic preparations with coenzyme Q-10 from DE-A-33 09 850 are known which are used for the treatment of skin diseases, for the prophylaxis of dystrophic and dysmetabolic states of the skin and for use in the case of chemical and physical respiratory damage or in the case of delayed respiration associated with age and Wear are suitable.

The suitability of coenzyme Q-10 for cosmetics is described in Japanese laid-open publication 58, 180, 410. It is said to activate skin cell metabolism and suppress oxidation. As a result, coenzyme Q10 has an important function in the prevention of skin damage from UV rays and the prevention of skin aging.

However, none of these documents could pave the way for the present invention.

It was therefore surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing the active substance combinations from bioquinones and vegetable and animal extracts containing them with 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid remedy the disadvantages of the prior art , It is preferred if these preparations contain coenzyme Q10 as bioquinone. It is advantageous if bioquinones or plant and animal extracts containing them are present in concentrations of 0.000001-5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01-1% by weight, and 8-hexadecene-1, 16- dicarboxylic acid in a total concentration of 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.005-8% by weight, in particular 0.05-5% by weight is present, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations. The invention also includes the use of such cosmetic or dermatological preparations against unwanted pigmentation of the skin and / or for the treatment of pigmentation disorders. Furthermore, the undesirable pigmentation of the hair is reduced by the combination of active ingredients mentioned and thus brings about a brightening of the hair.

Bioquinones in combination with 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid, collectively also referred to as "active ingredient combination according to the invention" or "active ingredient according to the invention", has proven to be outstandingly effective against undesired pigmentation, in particular local hyperpigmentation and against skin tanning caused by UV radiation, and both preventively and in the sense of treatment. However, it is also extremely advantageous according to the invention to use the active ingredient or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations used according to the invention with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention for cosmetic or dermatological treatment of undesired skin pigmentation, that is to say for example inhomogeneous pigmentation of the aging skin, lentigines senile or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

3- [4-Hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester] -2-aminopropionic acid or 3- [3-hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester] -2-aminopropionic acid (tyrosine O-sulfate ester) or corresponding sulfonic acid esters or phosphate esters or their derivatives as well as their vegetable and animal extracts and their esters are derived from the basic body tyrosine and are characterized by the following structures:

or

Here, R is a sulfate, phosphate or sulfonate or a derivative thereof, R 'and R "are each a hydrogen or an alkyl group.

The preparation of the 3- [4-hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester] -2-aminopropionic acid or 3- [3-hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester] -2-aminopropionic acid (tyrosine O-sulfate ester) or corresponding sulfonic acid esters or phosphate esters or their derivatives and their vegetable and animal extracts is described in the specialist literature described.

DE 19720339 describes the use of 3- [4-hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester] -2-aminopropionic acid or 3- [3-hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester J-2-aminopropionic acid (tyrosine O-sulfate ester) or their derivatives as an active ingredient in preparations for skin lightening. However, nothing is said about the advantageous, synergistic effect of the combination of 3- [4-hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester] -2-aminopropionic acid or 3- [3-hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester] -2-aminopropionic acid with 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid disclosed.

It was therefore surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active substance combinations selected from the group 3- [4-hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester] -2-aminopropionic acid or 3- [3-hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester] -2-aminopropionic acid (tyrosine O-sulfate ester ) or corresponding sulfonic acid esters or phosphate esters or their derivatives as well as vegetable and / or animal extracts containing these substances in combination with 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid remedy the disadvantages of the prior art. It is preferred if L-3- [4-hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester] -2-aminopropionic acid or L-3- [3-hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester] -2-aminopropionic acid (tyrosine O-sulfate ester) or corresponding sulfonic acid esters or phosphate esters or their derivatives and Plant and / or animal extracts containing these substances and 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid are present in the preparations in an effective content. It is particularly preferred if L-3- [4-hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester] -2-aminopropionic acid (tyrosine O sulfate ester) is used. It is very particularly preferred if the content of hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester-2-aminopropionic acid or corresponding sulfonic acid esters or phosphate esters or their derivatives is 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight. %, in particular 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, and 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid in a total concentration of 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.005-8% by weight , in particular 0.05-5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparations.

Such preparations can be used advantageously against unwanted pigmentation of the skin, for the treatment of pigmentation disorders of the skin and / or for the treatment of age spots. Furthermore, the undesirable pigmentation of the hair is reduced by the combination of active ingredients mentioned and thus brings about a brightening of the hair.

It is advantageous to use 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid in the form of one of its enantiomers

3- [4-hydroxphenyl sulfate ester] -2-aminopropionic acid or 3- [3-hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester] -2-aminopropionic acid (tyrosine O-sulfate ester) in combination with 8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid, collectively also “active ingredient combination according to the invention” or “active ingredient according to the invention” has proven to be extremely effective against undesired pigmentation, in particular local hyperpigmentation, and against tanning of the skin caused by UV radiation, both preventively and in the sense of a treatment. However, it is also extremely advantageous according to the invention to use the active ingredient or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations used according to the invention with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention for cosmetic or dermatological treatment of undesired skin pigmentation, that is to say for example inhomogeneous pigmentation of the aging skin, lentigines senile or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

The prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is carried out in the usual way, in such a way that the active ingredient combination according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient used according to the invention are applied to the affected skin areas. It has surprisingly been found that the active substance combination according to the invention fulfills the objects on which the invention is based. The drug combinations according to the Invention in all these uses acts synergistically with respect to the individual components.

The active ingredient combination according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into customary cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which can be in various forms. So you can e.g. a solution, an emulsion of the type water-in-oil (W / O) or of the type oil-in-water (O / W), or a multiple emulsions, for example of the type water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydro-dispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick, a transdermal therapeutic system or an aerosol.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.

It is also possible and advantageous in the sense of the present invention to insert the active ingredient used according to the invention in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning and care of the skin and hair. This includes shower gels, shampoos but also conditioners, hair care treatments, hair rinses, hair tonics, sprays etc.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfumes, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances, etc.

It is also advantageous to use the active ingredient 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid in the form of molecular adducts with cyclodextrins. It is believed that the cyclodextrin skeletons act as the host molecule and 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid as the guest molecule. For the preparation, cyclodextrins are dissolved in water and 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid is added. The molecular adduct then precipitates as a solid and can be subjected to the usual cleaning and preparation steps. It is known that cyclodextrin-guest complexes are in equilibrium in an appropriate solvent (for example water) the specific guest-cyclodextrin complex and the dissociated form, whereby cyclodextrin and guest can be separated to a certain extent. Such balance systems are also advantageous in the sense of the present invention.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.

Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more medicaments in an effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.

It is also advantageous to add the active ingredient used according to the invention as an additive to preparations which already contain other active ingredients for other purposes.

Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions within the meaning of the present invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to add the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations use.

It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not to protect against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain other UV protection substances. So z. B. usually incorporated into day creams or makeup products UV-A or UV-B filter substances. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.

Accordingly, the preparations in the sense of the present invention preferably contain at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance. The formulations can, if not necessary, possibly also one or more contain more organic and / or inorganic pigments than UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or oil phase.

The preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously also be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological emulsions which contain a water phase and at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature as a further phase.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2- Ethyl hexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxycinnamate isopentyl ester cinnamate, INCI: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate).

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO ₄ ).

For the purposes of the present invention, the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.

According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or retained. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are prepared with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer The various surface coatings can also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) ₆ , Sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.

Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS no. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the brand Parsol ^® 1789 and by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.

Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:

Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular phenylene-1,4 -bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name bisimidazylate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann &Reimer;

• Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;

• 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene)) bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2- oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also known as benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name terephthalic dicampher sulfonic acid ( CAS.-No .: 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso Triazine), which is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH under the trade name Tinosorb® S;

• Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;

• ^4,4, 4 "- (1, 3,5-triazine-2 _I 4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl), also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino - (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl® XL from Chimex ,

The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.

Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances in the sense of the present invention are e.g. B .:

^■ 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;

^■ 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

^■ Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone

^■ as well as UV filters bound to polymers.

^■ 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiioxane copolymer which is available, for example, from Hoffmann La Röche under the trade name Parsol® SLX. Advantageous water-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

A further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, obtainable (octocrylene) from BASF under the name Uvinul ^® N 539th

Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A and / or UV-B protection, preferably also contain further UV-A and in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention / or broadband filter, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], phenylene-1, 4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or their salts, the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and / or its salts and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl- hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, in each case individually or in any combination with one another.

The list of the UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.

The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic To provide preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives as are usually used in such preparations, for example antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments, the coloring effect have thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological logical formulations such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, the following can be used as solvents:

Water or aqueous solutions

Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;

Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products ,

Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used in particular. Water can also be a component of alcoholic solvents.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions for the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C- atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl ethylhexyl ethyl acetate, 2-ethylhexyl ethyl acetate Octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example jojoba oil. Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecylisononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _{2- 2-} ₅ alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Mixtures of C _12-15 alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C ₁₂ are particularly advantageous. ₁₅ alkylbenzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _2- i ₅ alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

The oil phase can advantageously also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous. Gels used according to the invention usually contain alcohols of low C number, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and water or an oil mentioned above in the presence of a thickener which, in the case of oily alcoholic gels, preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate, when aqueous alcoholic or alcoholic gels is preferably a polyacrylate.

Fixed pens contain e.g. natural or synthetic waxes, fatty alcohols or fatty acid esters. Lip care sticks and stick formulations for body deodorization are preferably used.

Common basic materials which are suitable for use as cosmetic sticks in the sense of the present invention are liquid oils (for example paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate), semi-solid components (for example petroleum jelly, lanolin), solid components (for example beeswax, ceresin and microcrystallines) Waxes or ozokerite) as well as high-melting waxes (e.g. camauba wax, candelilla wax).

Suitable blowing agents for cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations which can be sprayed from aerosol containers for the purposes of the present invention are the customary known volatile, liquefied blowing agents, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.

Of course, the person skilled in the art knows that there are non-toxic propellant gases per se which would in principle be suitable for realizing the present invention in the form of aerosol preparations, but which are nevertheless due to _. harmful effects on the environment or other accompanying circumstances should be avoided, in particular fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs).

Cosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention can also be present as gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and solvents usually used for this, preferably water, or organic thickeners, for example gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose Hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, e.g. B. aluminum silicates such as bentonite, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is contained in the gel, for example, in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight. Preparations according to the invention, which represent hair cosmetic cleaning preparations for the hair or the scalp, can be in liquid or solid form. They preferably contain at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, optionally an electrolyte and auxiliary agents, as are usually used therefor. The surface-active substance can be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration of between 1 and 94% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, but in particular between 1 and 50% by weight.

In particular, aqueous cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention or water-poor or water-free cleaning agent concentrates intended for aqueous cleaning may contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, for example conventional soaps, e.g. Fatty acid salts of sodium, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkane and alkylbenzenesulfonates, sulfoacetates, sulfobetaines, sarcosinates, amidosulfobetaines, sulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinic acid semiesters, alkyl ether carboxylates, protein fatty acid condensates, alkyl betaines, fatty acid alcoholate and amide glycolate amines.

Anionic surfactants are preferably used in concentrations between 5% and 20% by weight. For example, Sodium Laureth Sulfate as it is offered under the name Texapon N 70 by the company Henkel or Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate as it is offered under the name Rewopol SBFA 30 by the company Witco. Nonionic. Surfactants are preferably used in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight. Examples are decyl glucoside as it is offered by the company Seppic under the name Oramix NS 10 or polysorbate 80 as it is offered by the company ICI under the name Tween 80. Amphoteric surfactants are preferably used in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight. Examples are cocamidopropyl betaine as it is offered as Tego betaine by the company Goldschmidt or sodium cocoamphoacetate as it is offered under the name Miranol Ultra by the company Rhone Poulenc.

The percentages relate to the total weight of the preparations.

Conditioning aids may also be present in the hair cosmetic cleaning agents, for example in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. The preferred conditioning aids include polymeric quaternary compounds (quats). Polymer quats are often used in shampoos, for example with a concentration of 0.01 to 2% by weight. These include polyquaternium-10 as it is offered under the name Polymer JR 400 by the company Amerchol or hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride as it is offered with the name Jaguar C 162 by the company Rhone-Poulenc.

The preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, perfumes, substances to prevent foaming, foam stabilizers, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, lipid-replenishing agents, fats, oils, waxes, alcohols , Polyols and their toxicologically compatible ethers and esters, branched and / or unbranched hydrocarbons, further antioxidants, stabilizers, pH regulators, consistency agents, bactericides, deodorants, antimicrobial agents, antistatic agents, UV absorbers, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, Polymers, electrolytes, organic solvents, silicone derivatives, plant extracts, vitamins and / or other active ingredients or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation. Solution brokers, e.g. for incorporating hydrophobic components such as of perfume preparations can be included.

The total amount of auxiliaries is, for example, 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

The water content of the preparations is, for example, 50 to 95% by weight, preferably 55 to 90% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

The pH of the preparations can be adjusted in a known manner by adding acids or bases, preferably by adding buffer mixtures, e.g. based on citric acid / citrate or phosphoric acid phosphate buffer mixtures. Preferably the pH is below 10, e.g. in the range of 4-8, especially in the range of 5-7.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention.

Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, percentages or parts relate to the total weight of the preparations or the respective mixtures. Examples

1. PIT emulsions with antioxidants

2. O / W cream with antioxidants

Butylene glycol 6.00

Octoxyglycerin 3.00

Glycerin 5.00

Tocopherol acetate 0.50 1.00

Dioic Acid 0.50 0.40

Uric acid 0.40 0.60

Trisodium EDTA 0.20 0.20

Preservatives q.s. q.s.

Ethanol 3.00

Perfume q.s. q.s.

Water ad. 100 ad. 100

4. Hydrodispersions with antioxidants

Preservative qs

Perfume q.s.

Water ad 100.0 pH set to 6.0

6. W / O cream with antioxidants

7. W / O / W cream with antioxidants:

8. Pearlescent conditioner shampoo with antioxidants

The pH is adjusted to 6.

9. Clear conditioner shampoo with antioxidants

The pH is adjusted to 6. 10. Clear light shampoo with volume effect with antioxidants

The pH is adjusted to 5.5.

11. O / W cream with lipoic acid

13. Hydrodispersions with lipoic acid

15. W / O cream with lipoic acid

16. Pearlescent conditioner shampoo with lipoic acid

The pH is adjusted to 6.

17. Clear conditioner shampoo with lipoic acid

The pH is adjusted to 6. 18. Clear light shampoo with volume effect and with lipoic acid

The pH is adjusted to 5.5.

19. O / W cream with carnosine

21. Hydrodispersions with carnosine

23. W / O cream with carnosine

24. Pearlescent conditioner shampoo with carnosine

The pH is adjusted to 6.

25. Clear conditioner shampoo with carnosine

The pH is adjusted to 6. 26. Clear light shampoo with volume effect and with carnosine

The pH is adjusted to 5.5.

27. O / W cream with bio quinones

29. Hydrodispersions with bioquinones

31. W / O cream with bioquinones

32. Pearlescent conditioner shampoo with bioquinones

The pH is adjusted to 6.

33. clear conditioner shampoo with bio quinones

The pH is adjusted to 6. 34. clear light shampoo with volume effect and with bioquinones

The pH is adjusted to 5.5.

35. PIT emulsions with tyrosine sulfate

38. Hydrodispersions with tyrosine sulfate

39. Gel cream with tyrosine sulfate:

72

41. W / O / W cream with tyrosine sulfate:

42. Pearlescent conditioner shampoo with tyrosine sulfate

73

The pH is adjusted to 6.

43. clear conditioner shampoo with tyrosine sulfate

The pH is adjusted to 6.

44. clear light shampoo with volume effect and with tyrosine sulfate

The pH is adjusted to 5.5.

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active ingredient combinations of at least one antioxidant or its derivative and 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid.

2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the antioxidant or antioxidants are selected from the group imidazoles, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosine, L-carnosine, carotenoids, α-lipoic acid, lipoic acid amide, aurothioglucose, Propylthiouracil and other thiols, metal chelators, humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, unsaturated fatty acids, folic acid, flavonoids, tocopherols, rutinic acid, ferulic acid, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakharzynic acid, trihydroxy acid, trihydroxy acid, trihydroxy acid, trihydroxy acid, trihydroxy acid, its salts, selenium compounds and / or enzymatic antioxidants.

3. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the antioxidant or antioxidants are selected from the group urocanic acid, phytoene, lipoic acid, lipoamide, ferritin, desferal, billirubin, billiverdin, melanins, ubiquinone, ubiquinol, vitamin C and / or its derivatives ascorbyl - palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate, tocopherols and / or its derivatives such as vitamin E acetate, uric acid, α-glucosylrutin, kalalase and superoxide dismutase.

4. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the antioxidant or antioxidants are selected from the group urocanic acid, lipoic acid, liponamide, melanins, ubiquinone, α-tocopherol, uric acid and catalase.

5. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentrations of antioxidant or antioxidants if vitamin E and / or its derivatives are not used as antioxidants, 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, if vitamin E and / or its derivatives are used as antioxidants 0.001 to 10% by weight and the concentration of 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid 0.001 up to 10% by weight %, preferably 0.005 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

6. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing combinations of active ingredients from α-lipoic acid and plant and animal extracts containing the same in combination with 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid.

7. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to claim 6, characterized in that α-lipoic acid and vegetable and animal extracts containing the same in cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations in concentrations of 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.01-5% by weight. %, in particular 0.1-2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, and 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid in a total concentration of 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.005-8% by weight %, in particular 0.05-5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, is present.

8. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active ingredient combinations of carnosine and plant and animal extracts containing the same in combination with 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid.

9. Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation according to claim 8, characterized in that L-carnosine is contained.

10. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to claim 8 or 9, characterized in that carnosine and plant and animal extracts containing the same in cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations in concentrations of 0.001-10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01-1% by weight. %, based on the total weight of the preparations, and 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid in a total concentration of 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.005-8% by weight, in particular 0.05-5% by weight. % based on the total weight of the preparations.

11. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active ingredient combinations of bioquinones and vegetable and animal extracts containing the same in combination with 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid.

12. Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation according to claim 11, characterized in that coenzyme Q10 is contained as bioquinone.

13. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to claim 11 or 12, characterized in that coenzyme Q10 and vegetable and animal extracts containing the same in cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations in concentrations of 0.000001 - 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 - 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, and 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid in a total concentration of 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.005-8% by weight, in particular 0.05-5 % By weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, is present.

14. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active ingredient combinations selected from the group 3- [4-hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester] -2-aminopropionic acid or 3- [3-hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester] -2-aminopropionic acid (tyrosine O-sulfate ester) or corresponding sulfonic acid esters or phosphate esters or their derivatives and vegetable and / or animal extracts containing these substances in combination with 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid.

15. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to claim 14, characterized in that L-3- [4-hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester] -2-aminopropionic acid or L-3- [3-hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester] -2-aminopropionic acid (tyrosine O sulfate ester) or Corresponding sulfonic acid esters or phosphate esters or their derivatives vegetable and / or animal extracts containing these substances and 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid are present in the preparations in an effective content.

16. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to claim 14 or 15, characterized in that L-3- [4-hydroxy-phenylsulfate ester] -2-aminopropionic acid (tyrosine O-sulfate ester) or corresponding sulfonic acid ester or phosphate ester or its derivatives and vegetable and / or animal extracts containing L-3- [4-hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester] -2-aminopropionic acid (tyrosine O sulfate ester) is used.

17. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to at least one of claims 14 to 16, characterized in that the content of hydroxyphenyl sulfate ester-2-aminopropionic acid or corresponding sulfonic acid acid esters or phosphate esters or their derivatives in cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations is 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations and 8-hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid in a total concentration of 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.005-8% by weight, in particular 0.05-5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

18. Use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to at least one of the preceding claims against unwanted pigmentation of the skin and / or for the treatment of pigmentation disorders.

19. Use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to at least one of the preceding claims against unwanted pigmentation of the hair and / or for lightening the hair.